Everything You Should Know Before Getting A Dermal Piercing

Piercings are fun, and like tattoos, can become addictive. For those of us that have our helix’s, our septum’s and our tragus’ pierced, you’ll know that after the ears,then comes the rest of the body – including the belly, the nose, and the nipple. But have you ever heard a dermal piercing? (Or to those in the medical profession, a transdermal implant.) They are a new-gen piercing trend and dermal piercing fans typically opt for piercings along their décolletage or located somewhere on their neck or chest. But, before you even consider looking up where to get one done, it is best to read up on them and do your research first. Luckily, we've done the hard work for you. Scroll on to find out everything you need to know about dermal piercings (sometimes referred to as microdermal piercings), including expert advice from Raph Duplay Owner and Head Piercer at Covent Garden's Pierce Me London.

What exactly is a dermal piercing?

Unlike a standard cartilage or even belly button accessory, this is what’s known in the biz as a ‘single-point surface piercing’.

'Microdermal piercings originated in the USA in the early 2000s and have evolved significantly in terms of design and materials,' explains Duplay. 'Microdermals are intriguing for their minimal invasiveness compared to traditional piercings. They sit just below the skin's surface and don't penetrate through to the other side, making them appear as if tiny gems or metals are embedded directly in the skin.'

Think one entry and no exit point. This means it's trickier to change, clean and care for because it doesn’t pierce through the skin, rather it’s embedded in and sits under the surface of the skin with a dermal anchor keeping it in place.

How does a dermal piercing work?

PSA to all weak-stomached readers: skip this paragraph. First, a professional piercer will sterilise the area and then use either a dermal punch on to remove a small tube of flesh, or a needle to make an L-shaped pouch, then, using dermal forceps, an anchor with either a footed or round base is inserted into the area. That's how a transdermal implant is done.

What is a dermal piercing anchor?

There are 2x parts in a microdermal piercing jewellery: the anchor and the top.

'These parts can be detached from one another,' explains Duplay. 'The anchor will sit inside the body while the top will sit on the outside, resting on the skin. Each anchor is secured using implant-grade titanium for its base, ensuring safety and compatibility.'

Jewellery. What should you choose?

'As aforementioned, each anchor is secured using implant-grade titanium for its base,' says Duplay. 'The decorative tops vary, available in surgical steel 316L, titanium, or gold, catering to aesthetic preferences. Our studio offers a selection of initial jewellery options for microdermals, including various gems and metal disks.'

Can you change these yourself when the piercing is healed? That's a no.

'It's crucial to have these changed by a professional piercer after the piercing has healed for at least four months due to their sensitive nature.'

How long does a dermal piercing last?

'Microdermals are temporary and can be rejected by the body over time,' explains Duplay. 'This time might vary from person to person.'

While you might not get a choice about what type of dermal base is used, there are several variations. Some are punctured with holes so that the tissue can grow in and around the piercing while others have pivoting feet that keep the piercing in place over time – FYI this is very important as these little accessories have a habit of migrating and rejecting over time (if this happens to you speak to your piercer STAT as a displaced piercing can be fixed as long as you act fast!).

Dermal piercing removal - how does it work?

It's not a complicated procedure, but it does involve what could be described as minor surgery.

Healthline.com describes it this way: 'Massage the surrounding skin to help dislodge the anchor. Use a scalpel to make a small incision relative to the size of the anchor base. Use the scalpel to remove any scar tissue that has formed around the anchor. Use forceps to pull the anchor out of the skin.'

Obviously, you'll need to go back to your piercer for this procedure.

Does a dermal piercing (transdermal implant) count as body modification?

Many argue, yes. While it’s not as extreme as an implant it’s pretty heavy stuff in terms of piercings.

Which body parts can you actually get pierced?

It's been thought that this piercing has no limits. Many have dermal piercings on their wrist, chest, face, neck, hips, back dimples, cheeks, throat, stomach, back of their neck, by their ears and even between their breasts. Ruplay advises to proceed with caution however. 'Stick to the green areas of the body map below for the best, safest results based on client comfort.'

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Expected cost

What is the cost of a dermal piercing? A piercing can cost between £70-£100 and sometimes more depending on the area.

Pain levels

Does a dermal piercing (transdermal implant) hurt?Many say yes and that it’s more than any other piercing. But, this is much more dependent on where on your body you get pierced (i.e. your neck? Your chest?) as it’s to do with a number of factors, like sensory nerve distribution, the thickness of your dermis layer and whether a dermal punch or needle is used. 'At Pierce Me London, we take great care in ensuring the piercing process is as comfortable as possible,' says Duplay. 'We use precise techniques with a flat needle to minimise discomfort.'

Aftercare

How do you keep a dermal piercing (transdermal implant) clean and care for it?

When you first get it done, care for it like it’s your offspring as these piercings are easy to snag, bump and tug, which can hurt like hell. It’s worth noting that even if you get through the initial months of cleaning and looking after this baby that over time your body might reject it just for the heck of it. You’ll know this is happening because it will slowly be ejected from the skin. But, to ensure it lasts as long as possible keep it (and yourself) clean, use things like antibacterial soap and only touch it with washed hands.

'Understanding aftercare is crucial,' confirms Ruplay. 'Regular cleansing and minimal contact reduce infection risks, while proper lifestyle choices like good hygiene and avoiding nicotine aid the healing process. We always stress the importance of professional follow-up for adjustments or removal to prevent complications such as hypergranulation or scarring.'

Of course, do the normal stuff, like showering and eating and sleeping, and your body will fill in the rest of the healing. Essentially the thing is a surgical incision so don’t go squeezing your luxe shower gel into the wound and making it sudsy. Consider buying a saline solution mist or liquid that you can dab on twice a day with a cotton bud with a drop of tea tree oil, and blot dry with a paper towel.

Or, if you’ve spent all your savings on the piercing itself you can make a homemade solution with actual sea salt – not the stuff from Waitrose, but the kind you find in a pet store for an aquarium. Mix the salt with water that’s been made sterile by being boiled for five minutes. Your proportions should be 1/4teaspon salt to one cup (US measurements) water. Like, the shop purchased stuff, soak the piercing twice a day a for five minutes.

If you exercise or play on a sports team you should be extra careful. Experts recommend wearing a breathable bandage and loose clothing that doesn’t put pressure on the piercing. So, if you’re planning on getting your hip bone done then wave goodbye to those Lululemon yoga pants.

Healing time

How long does a dermal piercing take to heal? 'Typically a dermal piercing heals within 2-3 months,' says Ruplay. Patience is key!

What is a 'crusty'?

Firstly, this isn’t necessarily your fault. The healing process is a tricky mistress and so problems can arise even when you’ve been extra specially careful. If a crust (or a lymph as pros like to call them) forms on the surface of the piercing all you have to do is soak a cotton bud in saline water and soften the scab until you can wipe it away with a clean tissue.

Signs of infection

What do I do if my dermal piercing (transdermal implant) gets infected?

If it’s in bad go to the doctor NOW. But, if it’s just a little red dedicate a little more time to your aftercare and it should start healing. There are a few tell-tale signs things aren’t recovering as planned, like it will become pussy and yellow, you’ll develop red streaks, a rash, you might see swelling or the skin will be warm around the wound and thick, or develop a red bump (otherwise called hypergranulation).

Unsure?

'Visit your piercer for a check-up on jewellery and aftercare guidelines,' advises Ruplay. 'If the jewellery is removed, the surface cells can close up, which can seal the infection inside the piercing channel and result in an abscess. Until an infection is cleared up, leave quality jewellery in!'

Scarring

Some people are more sensitive to scarring than others. If you have a family history of keloids, which is an overgrowth of sprawling scar tissue, then this is not the piercing for you. However, if it’s a hypertrophic scar that’s another issue. These tend to be flatter, smaller scars in nearish the same colour as your complexion then you can apply jojoba oil after the piercing has been removed to shrink the scar down. However, if you don’t want to scar, make sure the anchor is removed cleanly and correctly and the wound is kept clean.

So you hate it, here's what to do next...

Breathe a sigh or relief because you and get them removed and there’s a high chance you won’t scar. However, to make sure it doesn’t get infected after the anchor has been removed get a medical practitioner to take it out as the anchor has most likely melded with your tissue so it may need to be cut out. This can be painful and can cost around £10-15 to do. Plus, there’s aftercare to consider, but if you really don’t like it then this shouldn’t bother you too much.

Can you change your dermal piercing at home?

Sort of. While not recommended, you can buy a dermal holder tool or a pair of dermal forceps, which keeps your anchor in place while you twist off the top and replace it. A smart idea is to buy a magnetic dermal top set, which allows you to change the jewellery with much less faff.

Here's some first person advice...

Piercing aficionado Lucy Hammond tells us: ‘I would really take the time to think about getting a dermal piercing because it will leave a scar. I don’t get regret having it done though, I’ve had two and am considering a third! My dad isn’t happy about it!’

How to pick your piercer

Don't be afraid to ask questions. Look to the below recommendations from the Association of Professional Piercers:

'how long your piercer has been piercing, how they learned, and what they do to keep their knowledge-base current – such as taking continuing education courses on anatomy, aftercare, aseptic technique, etc.'

Rachael Martin is Grazia’s Junior Beauty Editor. She covers all things beauty, health and wellness