E N C YC L O P E D I A O F

LANDSCAPE
DESIGN
E N C YC L O P E D I A O F

LANDSCAPE
DESIGN
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
C H R I S YO U N G
Contents
6 Foreword
Chris Young, Editor-in-Chief

10 How to design
A comprehensive guide to the principles of garden design
and how you can apply them to create a design of your own.

12 First questions 80 Designing with plants

20 First principles 100 Assessing your garden
56 Choosing materials 112 Creating a plan

130 Choosing a style

From formal and foliage to Modernist and Mediterranean,
explore the history and key ingredients of these major design
styles and find inspiration for your own garden.

132 Garden styles explained 196 Productive gardens

136 Formal gardens 206 Family gardens
146 Cottage gardens 216 Natural gardens
156 Mediterranean gardens 226 Urban gardens
166 Modernist gardens 236 Country gardens
176 Japanese gardens 246 Cutting-edge gardens
186 Foliage gardens

256 Making a garden

All the practical information and step-by-step guides you need
to bring your garden designs to life.

260 Building garden structures 278 Planting techniques

290 Plant and materials guide

Expert advice to help you choose the perfect plant for any
situation and the right materials for your design.

292 Plant guide 352 Materials guide

366 Suppliers and useful contacts 378 Index

370 Designers’ details 391 About the contributors
371 Acknowledgments
 Foreword

Have you ever sat—just sat—in your garden, thinking, looking around, taking in the
view? Not really looking at anything in particular, but thinking about anything and
everything to do with your garden, asking yourself, “What if I planted a tree there?” or
“If I moved those slabs, what would I put in their place?” Whether you were aware
of doing this or not is, in a way, immaterial because what you have been doing is
visually making this piece of land your own, and coming up with thoughts and ideas
for improving your outside space. Welcome then—whether it be for the first or fiftieth
time—to the world of garden design.
The concept of garden design is nothing new: when Man first cultivated land, and
enclosed his arable crops and livestock, he was delineating usable space to its best
advantage. This may not be design as we understand it now (obviously, aesthetics
were of no practical value then), but he was making spatial relationships based on
need. He was designing his environment to suit his individual daily, monthly, seasonal,
and yearly requirements.
Since that time, the process of creating a garden has evolved according to style,
fashion, prowess, skill, aptitude, wealth, travel, experimentation, and history, but it can
all be distilled down to that first need. In essence, garden making is all about a human
being exerting some level of control over his or her own surroundings. And, really, that is
all garden design is today.
As is set out by my fellow authors in this book, creating a garden can be an intricate
and time-consuming process, but the fundamental starting point is to remember that
garden design is about creating an outside space that you (or your client) want. Many
discussions will ensue after that initial thought—from what style you want, to working
out how sustainable your garden might be. But don’t let the detail bog you down too

Welcome in
Successful garden design
is about creating usable,
attractive, and well-made
spaces that suit the
owner’s personal needs.
8/9 FOREWORD

much or too early in the process. Of course detail is essential for a successful garden,
but holding on to that vision, that desire, is a key part of the process. This book will help
you, not only with the nuts and bolts of garden making, but also to focus the vision
and, I hope, help make it become a reality.
So why is there a need for such an encyclopedia? In truth, because
designing a garden can be something of a lonely experience. Even though we
are constantly bombarded with images, suggestions, and information (books,
internet, social media, and magazines), it is rare to be able to look in one place
for everything—from plant selection to gravel color, from fence posts to tree heights.
The very nature of having so much choice can render the designer/gardener/client
more than a little confused as to what they actually want from their garden. The
activity of making a garden can also be influenced from so many quarters—by
plants or hard materials—that a designer needs a refuge of sorts, where questions
are answered and problems resolved. I hope this book will be that refuge in an
ever-crowded, information-heavy world.

▽ Plan your plan ▽▽ Good form Personal space

Putting your ideas onto Successful designs use Good design should reflect
paper, or computer, is flower color, leaf shape, the wishes, likes, and
an essential step when and tree stems to create a dislikes of the garden
designing your garden. balance of color and form. owner—regardless of the
country or climate.
 Often, coming up with an overarching vision for what you want your garden to be like
is the easiest part of the process. It is translating that vision into a reality that takes the
bulk of the time: working out how parts of a garden can sit together, how planting
interest throughout the year can be sustained, deciding on hard landscaping materials
that will work in all weather conditions, and so on. These are the stimulating—and at
times frustrating—aspects of the process, but they make the difference between an
unusable piece of land adjoining your property and a beautifully designed garden.
The chapters in this book take you through these very stages of garden design,
helping to demystify the unknowns and clarify the unclear. I sincerely hope you
enjoy it and, as a result, make the best garden you possibly can.

Chris Young
Editor-in-Chief

Considered style ▽ Urban jungle ▽▽ Sense of scale Eye of the beholder

Successful spaces are Using foliage plants of When creating a plan, Sometimes, beautiful
created when planting different types and heights working to a scale allows design expressions can
colors and combinations can help to provide privacy you to be sure that all be created by mirroring
complement the hard from neighboring views and structures and details will shapes, like this sculpture
landscaping materials. offers useful shelter. work well on the ground. and round-flowered Allium.
HOW TO DESIGN
12/13 How to design
FIRST QUESTIONS

What do you want to do in your garden?

Your garden is an extension of your home and it propose to use the space, not just now but in the
should provide a place for you to enjoy life to the full. future. This can range from keeping very busy, to
When thinking about any changes that you may make doing as little as possible at the other extreme. Ask
to the yard, it is important to consider how you yourself a series of questions about the yard’s many

GET INVOLVED

ENJOY THE PLANTS AND WILDLIFE ENTERTAIN AND HAVE FUN

The room outside

Gardens are often
described as “outdoor
rooms,” and can be
planned as extensions
of the house. Ensure
continuity with features
such as stylish furniture,
screens, painted walls,
canopies, and planters.
An open-air room can be
used for entertaining and
socializing in much the
same way as the interior,
while also offering
The active gardener children space for
Digging, sowing, and planting bring great energetic play.
rewards as plants grow and change throughout
the seasons. Colors and textures evolve, and
there is something new to see each week.
Plants attractive to birds, bees, and butterflies
bring borders to life.
roles. Do you want a space for entertaining, a significant changes to the garden in the future
play area while the children are young, or simply as it establishes and matures. Ideally, come up
a peaceful but beautiful yard in which to relax when with flexible ideas that can be adapted. A range
you have free time? Bear in mind that your needs, of different requirements might suggest the
and those of your family, are likely to change with creation of separate and possibly hidden areas
time, and that it may be more difficult to make within the same yard.

REST

APPRECIATE THE PICTURE RELAX AND UNWIND

A peaceful space
One of the special joys of
having a garden is that
you can simply sit, doze,
read, or do nothing in the
open air, surrounded by
the sounds and scents
of plants and wildlife.
Gardens designed for
this purpose can provide
the perfect antidote to
the stresses and strains
of everyday life.

Simple solution
Gardens for busy people need to be easy to
maintain, but they can still be lovely to look
at. They require simple design solutions with
a strong overall concept and a pleasing
layout for long-term appeal, allowing
owners to sit back and enjoy the view.
14/15 How to design
FIRST QUESTIONS

How do you want to feel?

Gardens stimulate emotions. Immediately upon vibrant color, textural diversity, or striking features
entering a garden we respond to our surroundings. to excite and energize the spirit. Or you might want
When planning a new design, you may choose to a place for quiet reflection and contemplation, or
be bombarded with sensory stimulation, a riot of even a space for therapy and healing, such as a calm,

ENERGIZED

EXCITED AND UPBEAT REJUVENATED

Refreshing space
The presence of water,
creating sunlit reflections
and offset by natural
plantings, can help to
evoke a feeling of energy,
growth, and rejuvenation.
Soft colors and a
complementary selection
of natural materials
enhance the mood. These
are places for “recharging
your batteries” after
a long day at work.

The dynamic garden

Exciting, stimulating sensations can be
created using vibrant, hot colors, spiky
plants, sharp lines, challenging artwork,
varied textures, and bold use of lighting.
But, be warned: strident garden designs
can be overpowering.
simple garden with evergreens and a reflective of each area through layout, distribution of
pool. If you have enough land, it may be possible paths and spaces, and light touches of detail
to demarcate different areas for different moods and decoration. Color, shape, fragrance, and
by making effective use of screening or tall plants. foliage will also affect the tone, and by using
Creating a new design for a garden provides an these elements you can help to foster positive
opportunity to change or enhance the atmosphere moods and emotions.

RELAXED

A SENSE OF WELL-BEING PEACEFUL AND CALM

Restoring health
These gardens should be
private, unchallenging
spaces, and are often
characterized by culinary,
therapeutic, and medicinal
plants, such as herbs with
their appealing scents, or
healthy crops such as fruit
trees. They provide a
reassuring, relaxed, and
restorative environment.

Contemplative moods
Cool colors, simple flowing shapes, delicate
scents, and restricted use of materials and
planting will create a calm and peaceful mood
in the garden. Simple focal elements, waterfalls,
and carefully chosen lighting help to enhance
these uncluttered spaces.
16/17 How to design
FIRST QUESTIONS

What will your garden look like?

Garden visits, shows, and plant nurseries, as well the key to successful design is not collecting ideas
as magazines, books, television programs, and and trying to combine all of them into one space.
websites, will provide anyone wishing to change their Rather, it is a process of reviewing and editing a range
garden with a wealth of inspiration. But remember, of ideas, with the aim of developing a coherent overall

TRADITIONAL

FILLED WITH FLOWERS A TROPICAL RETREAT SUMMER ESCAPE

Grow your favorite flowers Sculpt with plants Re-create a summer vacation
Your garden can be a horticultural Bold-leaved plants bring a sense of the Why limit your vacation to a couple weeks,
extravaganza, or a setting for favorite exotic and can be used to create a lush, when you can pretend to be on a summer
plants. These gardens are seasonal and enclosed garden with a subtropical feel. trip all year? Adapt ideas seen on your
offer change and continuous involvement. Choose plants carefully to ensure that travels: for example, fragrant lavender beds
Try to work to a clear overall concept in they will not get too big and are suited and window boxes brimming with ivy-leaved
terms of color, texture, and structure. to your site’s soil and climate. geraniums for echoes of southern France.
appearance for your garden, whether you are produce a unified composition, rather than a
revamping a mature plot or starting with a blank jumble of parts. Make notes, collect pictures, and
canvas at a new house. A good way of approaching sketch ideas. Some starting points are given below,
this is to have a clear image of the look you are from the traditional to the modern, to the imaginative
hoping to achieve and to carefully select elements, and quirky. Use them as a prompt to see which style
features, materials, and plants that combine to suits you best.

CONTEMPORARY

A SPACE TO REFLECT CHIC AND MINIMAL FUN AND FUNKY

Make a sanctuary Cut out the clutter Show your creative side
A tranquil setting, characterized by Restrict yourself to no more than three Perhaps better suited to show gardens
straight lines, simple shapes, subtle complementary materials and a muted or temporary installations, these quirky
lighting, and a coherent layout, provides color palette, but combine them gardens are attention-grabbing but
a comfortable space for retreat from beautifully. A large, dramatic water require artistic flair and confidence to be
modern-day life. Avoid clashing materials feature or sculpture adds a dynamic successful. Not for the shy or reserved,
and keep planting manageable. quality to a pared-down design. but they can be great fun while they last.
18/19 How to design
FIRST QUESTIONS

How much do you want to do?

The amount of time you have to devote to your very simple, easy-care garden, with hard landscaping
yard on a daily, weekly, or monthly basis should be and evergreen planting, the list of tasks normally
a major consideration when thinking about an overall changes seasonally, with less to do in the cooler
design and its future maintenance. Unless you have a winter months. In a high-maintenance garden with

HIGH MAINTENANCE

THREE TIMES A WEEK ONCE A WEEK

Regular upkeep
Most small yards will not
need attention more than
two or three times a week
at most, although a yard
filled with lots of pots will
require daily watering in
hot, dry spells. Generally,
larger gardens with lawns,
mixed borders, a diverse
range of plants, and
productive growing areas
will take up more time.

The weekend gardener

This is possibly the most common
category, especially for people who only
have spare time on weekends. Lawns
require weekly mowing and edge-
trimming in summer, and weeds need to
be kept in check throughout the garden.
mixed flower borders, lawns, fruit trees, and a you want, but be realistic about how much time
vegetable plot, spring and summer are very busy you can spare to keep it looking good. Working
seasons. Lawn-mowing, hedge-trimming, pruning in your garden, watching it mature, and admiring
and feeding fruit trees, sowing and transplanting the results, is immensely pleasurable, but do plan
vegetables, plant propagation, and ongoing for maintenance in advance, and budget to bring
cultivation, all take time. This may be the garden in help if necessary.

LOW MAINTENANCE

TWICE A MONTH SIX TIMES A YEAR

Keep it practical
Most shrubs, climbers, and
perennial plants require
attention at intervals.
Seasonal pruning may be
required in spring and fall,
borders need weeding and
feeding, and flowering
plants such as roses
should be deadheaded
regularly (left). Lawns
are impractical in this
category, although
meadows are an option.

Minimal maintenance
Gardens requiring only infrequent attention
will exclude lawns and hedges. Plan for
“low,” rather than “no” maintenance, to
avoid a sterile look. Many trees and shrubs
only need an annual clean-up, and hard
landscaping, with just occasional attention.
First principles

Designing your garden is all about finding solutions. It can seem daunting at first, but if
you start with a clear idea of your aspirations and practical needs, your basic design will
soon begin to take shape.
Begin by pulling together all your inspirations, using magazines, photographs, and online
sources to create a book or folder of ideas. Your images may include plants and landscapes
you love, and perhaps furniture or art you admire. To help clarify your thoughts, you could
then draw a simple bubble diagram that identifies areas for different activities, such as
eating and dining, seating, or play space for the children.
The routes of paths, shapes of structures, and the spaces between
elements all have an impact on the look and feel of a design, and need
to be considered before you draw up a finished plan. For example,
sinuous paths and organic shapes combine to create relaxed and
informal designs, whereas straight paths and symmetrical layouts convey
a formal look.
Every site will have its own particular challenges, whether your garden
is on a steep slope and needs terracing, or if it is tiny or an awkward
shape. Whatever the problem, an understanding of how to use lines,
shapes, height, structure, and perspectives will help. You can also
employ a range of techniques to lead or deceive the eye, creating
A strong pattern unifies
an illusion of space in a small garden, or diverting attention to focus different materials.
on specific features.
When it comes to creating atmosphere and mood, the colors,
patterns, and textures that you choose have a powerful impact.
Color also affects the impression of size and space in the
garden—cool blues and whites tend to make an area feel
bigger; warm reds and yellows make spaces appear lively and
more compact. Pale colors and white reflect light into gloomy
plots. Texture can be used to great effect, too, creating exciting
contrasts by combining rough with smooth, or shiny with matte.
There are no rights or wrongs in the world of garden design, so
have fun and experiment. Plans help you to organize design ideas.
22/23 How to design
FIRST PRINCIPLES

Understanding plans
A plan is a two-dimensional representation of a three-
dimensional garden and provides a useful thinking tool.
It allows you to develop and share ideas easily with
others about how your space can be organized and
where various elements should be located. You can
produce a simple sketch or a more detailed, scale plan
to illustrate your design; the plans shown here explain
the different types and how to use them.

Working plans
These plans don’t need to be accurate or drawn to scale, but they
can be used to experiment with ideas, especially the relationship
of horizontal surfaces (built and planted) with the locations of The finished garden
Sara Jane Rothwell, owner of the design practice London Garden
walls, screens, trees, and other main features. They can also Designer, produced both an overhead and a planting plan
include connecting elements, such as paths and views. (opposite, top and middle) to show clients the new design.
Explore how
best to create
perspective by
placing elements
such as trees PLANTING

Think about
whether you
want to
replace existing DINING WOODLAND
elements, like
this fence
LAWN

Consider whether
vertical features,
such as a wall
and steps, will Explore suitable sites for the Simple labels provide
work well different areas of the garden a quick reference point
for more detailed plans

Overlaid photos Bubble diagram

Perspective drawings are difficult to master, so cover A basic bubble diagram helps you explore relationships
a photo of your garden with tracing paper and sketch ideas between areas within the garden. It is an ideal way to
on top to give a three-dimensional view of the changes. experiment quickly before drawing a more detailed plan.

Garden plan symbols PLANTING LANDSCAPING

These common symbols for plans form
a visual design language that enables
builders and other professionals working
Brick – Brick – Uniform Square-cut
in your yard to read the plan quickly and basketweave herringbone paving stone
New tree
understand what is being proposed. The Conifer
Existing tree
symbols illustrated here are those that
are most often used and most widely
understood, and can be reproduced Wall shrub
in black and white or color. Brick – Decking Granite setts Random-cut
stretcher bond stone
WATER Bulbs

Climber Perennials

Still water Fountain Water Cobblestones Gravel Rough grass Mown grass
around rocks Shrubs Hedge or pebbles
Finished plans
Plans that have been drawn to scale and show accurate need to be read and understood by builders or contractors who
arrangements, locations, and dimensions of proposed structural use them to measure areas and lengths (for cost purposes), and
elements, planting, and features are known as finished plans to identify exact locations on the ground. Changing ground levels
(see pp.114–121 for detailed advice on how to draw a plan). These are shown as separate cross-sections, or by annotating the change
plans are intended mainly for construction purposes and will of level on the overhead plan.

Overhead plan Include the site

boundaries and any
An overhead plan should show relevant buildings,
the correct sizes and locations doors, and windows
on your plan
of all proposed elements, such
as horizontal surfaces, areas of
planting (topsoil), locations and An overhead plan
alignments of linear elements needs to include the
correct materials and
(walls, fences, screens, hedges), measurements of all
and singular components (trees, hard landscaping
features
specimen shrubs, pools,
stepping stones, steps, lights, Adding the details
drainage points, and so on). In small-scale overhead plans, the
individual materials can be shown;
larger scale plans usually illustrate
these materials more symbolically
(see also p.118).

Planting plan
There is no symbol for
A planting plan is important for a lawn, so label the
calculating the correct number areas that you want to
LAWN be turfed on your plan
of plants in the garden and
identifying their exact locations.
It also shows the position of
Link shrubs of the
larger specimens, as well as same type with rules
When including new
plants and trees, check
groups or drifts of the same how far they are likely to
species. This plan is most useful, spread and indicate this
on your plan, so you can
and needs to be most accurate, space them out accurately
when planting is being carried
out by a contractor without the
designer present. If you are
doing the planting, a plan can Drawing up a planting plan
Garden plan symbols can be
help you accurately calculate the reproduced by hand or by using
number of plants you’ll need and special design software (see also
Garden plan symbols p.121). If you are less experienced
show how to set them out prior (see opposite) ensure
that the planting in reading planting plans, you may
to planting (see pp.122–129 for plan is as precise prefer to reproduce these symbols
more on creating a planting plan). as possible in color.

Cross-section This plan shows the

elevation of the garden
If you have a sloping garden and and the side view of the
boundary wall
want to make changes to it, you
may need a plan to show the
impact of these alterations.
For steeply sloping yards, hire
a land surveyor to draw a
cross-section, or elevation plan.
Cross-section plan
This will show the significant A cross-section must show existing
levels before and after any and proposed levels so that the
changes. More complex slopes differences are easily located.
may need additional plans.
24/25 How to design
FIRST PRINCIPLES

Gathering inspiration
How do we find ideas for our outside spaces? For most of us, inspiration may initially come from other
gardens, whether they are our friends’ or pictures we have found online or in books, magazines, or
newspapers. While this is a good starting point, and probably the best stimulus for anyone who is still
developing their confidence in making design decisions, it can ultimately constrain the creative process.
Most successful designers look outside their own discipline for other influences to help develop their
concepts and push the boundaries, so seek inspiration from a variety of sources or select a theme.
You can then create a “mood board” of appealing ideas to help you develop your own unique design.

Finding inspiration
By focusing on aspects of experiences that
you like—for example, places you have
visited on vacation, natural landscapes that
you love, the work of favorite artists or
architects, interior designs, or ideas you
have seen on websites, such as Facebook,
Pinterest or Houzz, or TV programs—you
can build up a picture of a garden you will
enjoy. Also scroll through nurseries’ websites
for images of plants that you like, and make a
note of these too.
You can collate your images and ideas by
Bright colors and sculpture—mosaics?
printing out pictures and sticking them into
a notebook or onto an A3 sheet of paper to
create a mood board. Alternatively, source Mediterranean fishing boat—blues and greens
a website that allows you to upload your
images to make a mood board online, which
you can then easily refer to on your phone,
tablet, or computer. Whichever method you
choose, continue to build up your portfolio
of images until you are ready to start the
garden design process.
Remember that you do not need to
include all of your design influences in your
final plan. In fact, professional designers
Beach-themed garden—props?
often start with the bare bones of an idea
and build on that, rather than cramming
Coastal wild plants Pebble pathway idea
in everything on their or their clients’
wishlist from the start.
Also narrow down your plant list to about
20 key varieties (you can always introduce
more at a later stage), and look through your
images for colors that appeal, again keeping
to a simple palette—see the information on
introducing color and the color wheel on
pp.46–7 for guidance.

Using a mood board

Collate photographs, images from websites,
and pictures from magazines to create a
mood board of creative and planting ideas.
You can then use these as the inspiration
for a totally new garden design or a starting Beach hut style—storage? Yellow flowers for an accent color
point for the renovation of an existing plan.
Case study: a seaside theme
A coastal theme is a natural choice for that developing a design is not about copying
anyone who has been inspired by a exactly what you have seen elsewhere, nor is
vacation by the seaside. Study scenes, it combining all your ideas into one busy
plants, and other features while you are area. Good design evolves when a theme is
away, and start compiling a sourcebook of carefully adapted to suit a planned space. So
ideas, photographs, and even pressed consider all the elements that inspire you
flowers that capture the essence of the and see whether they work together well
garden you want to create at home. before you draw up your final plan.
Also look at colors, shapes, and You may also find it useful to sketch a
materials that reflect the location. These bubble plan (see p.22), marking the different
may include the turquoise water, local areas and functions you are planning for your
costumes, or landscaping materials used new garden. Then file your inspirations
for houses or walls. However, remember under those headings, as shown here.
△ Main inspiration
An inspiring vacation by the sea will provide a wealth
of ideas. Here, the light through the trees adds a
romantic ambience.

◁ Seaside planting sources

Re-create coastal shallow soils and drought conditions—
for example, with gravel borders—to mimic the
environment in which these plants would naturally grow.

▽ Seaside furniture
Furniture that is in keeping with the overall mood, such
as these casual deck chairs, helps to create a coherent
look, as well as providing a welcome area of relaxation.

Devising play areas ▷ Sun and sand

A practical play area
Sand and water continue the seaside theme, combined with an organic
and are obvious magnets for children. A layout and seaside plants
makes a delightful feature.
microenvironment that includes these
elements not only makes a great play area ▷▷ Swinging idea
that will provide children with hours of fun, If you have room in your
it also looks attractive when not in use. If garden, allocate a space
for a swing. Use recycled,
you have very young children, you may hardwearing rope and
prefer to avoid the potential danger of open driftwood for the seat,
water and install just a sand box. If you are and cover the ground
beneath with bark chips.
wary of vast quantities of sand ending up in
the pool (or in your house), substitute small,
rounded pebbles to make your “beach.”
26/27 How to design
FIRST PRINCIPLES

Shapes and spaces

Choosing the basic ground shapes for your plot is a good
starting point for a design: one simple shape is best for small
gardens, but larger areas can accommodate a variety. How you
fill the spaces between the shapes also determines the final look.

How to use shapes

When choosing squares, rectangles, or circles for a design, also consider the
size, shape, and location of the surrounding buildings and boundaries. Experiment
with different options: try layouts based on existing features, the structure of the
house, and the way the garden will be viewed and used. In general, shapes with
straight sides are easier and cheaper to build than circles and ovals.

Right-angled shapes Large planting Several large,

A variety of these straight-sided shapes spaces for interesting triangular
trees or shrubs spaces for planting
easily divide the garden into separate
areas, provide a strong sense of
The full width of the
direction, and exploit both long and garden is defined by
short views. A long axis running down the tilted shapes
Planting may
the garden will lengthen it visually; not work in
narrow areas
a diagonal layout creates more interest;
blocks laid across the plot foreshorten Straight lines The long view
the garden and take the eyes to the This design has a strong A diagonal layout
linear axis. The shapes directs the eye toward
sides, making the space feel wider. and planting spaces are the corners. The overall
simple and unified. design evokes energy.

Circular shapes Large spaces for

planting or use as
Circles are unifying shapes, and while a practical area Moving circles to
combinations can create pleasing one side allows for
a larger planting area
effects, they do leave awkward pointed
junctions that can be difficult to plant or Dominant larger
circle could be either
designate. Work with geometric lawn or hard surface Awkward area
needs to be taken
principles: for example, a path should into account
lead you into the center of the circle;
if set to the side, the design will appear Diagonal line C-shaped curve
unbalanced. Ovals have a long axis, The three overlapping The restricted access
circles are aligned along and pleasing asymmetry
providing direction and orientation. a diagonal to provide a of this design create an
strong design axis. enticing space to explore.

Mixing shapes
Use planting or a
Combining various shapes creates more A focal point here will focal point to provide
draw the eye down
interest, but creates problems when a the central axis
a visual full stop

curve and a rectangle meet, or different

materials connect. Generally, keep the Planting partly
obscures the
layout simple, experimenting with scale Planting separates different areas
and proportion to work out how many the different shapes
opposing shapes can be employed.
Planting can be used to “glue” the Classic match Simple approach
shapes together, and to blur the joins A traditional symmetrical Changing the size and
layout, mirrored along a orientation of a shape
between awkward junctions. central axis, is the basis delivers a dramatic and
for a formal design. imposing layout.
 Using spaces
Densely planted spaces, using height and
filling the garden’s width, will create a
cocoon, while sparse, airy planting hugging
the boundaries gives an open, spacious feel.
Spaces can also be used to disguise the size
and shape of a garden. For instance, a jungle
effect in a small garden can imply the
existence of more space by blurring the
edges, whereas exposed boundaries may
Clean lines make it appear smaller. Conversely, in a large
Interlocking, steel-edged
rectangular “trays” are country garden, open spaces can blend
the basis for this simple seamlessly with the surrounding landscape,
design. The metal cladding making the plot seem even bigger. Consider, Mixed moods
on the building creates This garden is densely planted by the house, allowing
a focal point and an too, existing planting and structures and close inspection of the flowers and plants, and then
effective visual boundary. work with the spaces they create. opens up on to a spacious lawn, creating two moods.

Larger Open aspect

planting A narrow space between
areas are tall boundaries will be
limited
claustrophobic and Low planting allows
oppresive. Here, in a the surroundings to
become integral
design dominated by A central flat to the design
a lawn or hard landscaping, area draws the
low vegetation creates an eye down
area exposed to more light,
A narrow
access longer views, and with
creates a connection to the sky
Full width intrigue above. It will feel open, but
A series of parallel divisions, with offset intimate areas may be lost.
gaps for planting or practical structures,
forces movement and views around the
garden. The design draws you in.

Enclosed feeling Planting of various heights will

The same space filled with Trees create an mask areas and invite exploration
vegetation of different overhead canopy
Large
planting heights will be darker,
pockets much more enclosed,
and with no views to the
Long axis sides. The path will appear
directs as a corridor through the
the eye center and can lead to
different parts of the
garden, divided by the
planting into separately
Smooth flow designated areas.
Using ovals instead of circles adds a
smoother flow to the layout, because the
eye is taken along their lengths, rather
than in all directions as in a circle.

A wooded glade
The path Balanced approach creates a more Trees with light
connects The same path now moved intimate area canopies open
and unifies to the side also creates a up the aspect
the spaces corridor-like effect, but this
time views are allowed
Access under the canopy to the
could be right, across a narrower
via a patio strip of planting into the
or terrace brighter space beyond.
To the left, secret, intimate
places can be created
Secret corners with a pergola or arbor
In this mixture of rectangles and curved among the mixture
hedges, only one part of the garden can of high and low planting.
be seen at any time. This allows the
hidden areas to have different themes.
28/29 How to design
FIRST PRINCIPLES

Routes and navigation

The location, width, pattern, and choice of materials of your path network will affect the way the garden
is used. The routes determine how the area is navigated, as well as revealing views and framing spaces.
Not all paths have the same role: some, the primary routes, will dominate the vista and dictate the garden
plan. The secondary routes are used occasionally, guiding you off the main thoroughfare to access areas
hidden from sight, whether for practical or design purposes.

Primary routes
The main route or pathway through the garden not only links by tall planting that obscures the view, adds mystery. To punctuate
together the different areas, but also determines the basic design. the end of the route, use a focal point, such as a bench, statue, or
For example, a main path laid straight down the center suggests container, to create a visual boundary. By its nature, a primary route
formality, while a curved route snaking through the garden creates will be heavily used, so materials need to be durable as well as
the template for an informal plan. A wide path offers an open, inviting complementary to the overall garden style. Consider, too, how the
entrance, welcoming in visitors, and a narrow winding path, flanked shape and appearance of path edges fit into the design.

Central paths Winding paths Diagonal paths

Paths converge A container Path skirts a feature, Path leads to a destination— The straight path A circular patio
in the center provides focus possibly a pond for example, a summerhouse lengthens the plot adds contrast
or seating area
Classic layout Enticing curves Illusion of size
A formal design is often built around a series of Routes that snake through the plot add a flowing Setting a path on a diagonal allows the garden to be
geometric and symmetrical paths. They are used sense of movement and an air of intrigue. They can viewed along its longest axis, thereby creating the
to frame planted areas and meet at a specific focal be used to move around or join up key elements, as illusion of greater space and depth in small spaces,
point. There is usually no opportunity to deviate. well as provide a few unexpected surprises. drawing the eye away from the back boundaries.
 Secondary routes
While primary routes determine the style of a garden, secondary
routes should be less intrusive and subtly incorporated into the design.
They can be both practical and ornamental, providing occasional
access to a seating area, shed, or compost heap, or leading you off the
main path on an intimate journey to view a concealed corner. They
can even cut through large flower beds, allowing you to experience
colors and scents up close. Access routes need not be as durable as
main paths, and can be created from softer, organic materials, or
mown through an area of grass.

Access paths
ROAM FREE While helpful in
Random paving with planted crevices creates offering access to other
a slightly erratic, informal design. With no areas, plan secondary
routes carefully and
defined route, the eye—and body—can move use sparingly to avoid a
in several directions across the whole area. maze-like confusion of
paths that make the
design look muddled.
They can be obvious
(as right), or hidden in
Circular paths some way, either
deliberately behind
planting (see below
left), or concealed
within the design (see
below right).

Path to shed

Path to patio

Practical solution Hidden approach

A path tucked away at the back of this formal The gravel to right and left of the path, while part
design is not obvious, but it provides a practical, of the design, also provides a direct, hardwearing
hard-surfaced route to the shed and compost bins. pathway to the garden’s seating and play areas.

The circular path A pond, for example,

draws you on is framed by the path

Continuous flow
A circular path takes you on a journey around the Secret way Subtle link
garden. It can be planned to provide alternative Visually, it appears as if the main pathway stops at A path laid in the same paving material as the main
views of key features and different elements, the lawn, but concealed behind low hedging, a side circular route links the off-set dining area without
depending on the direction in which you travel. path takes you off to a secluded area of the garden. impinging on the cleanness of the design.
Scenic route
The journey through this urban garden has been
lengthened with a sinuous timber pathway that snakes
through the center of the plot and traverses a rill.
A curved path helps create an illusion of greater space
and presents the garden from different angles by
obliging visitors to look one way and then another.
designer Adam Frost
32/33 How to design
FIRST PRINCIPLES

Creating views and vistas The bubble pool draws

the attention to the side
of the main path

Your garden may look out over countryside or

toward an apartment complex, but either way, 3
the views within your space can be enhanced with 4
careful planning. A combination of framing and
screening, using barriers, archways, and pergolas, 1 2

HOUSE
can create a memorable experience as you move
through your plot, glimpsing the next view as you go.
5 6

Planning your route

One ingeniously planned vista is gratifying, but a sequence
of changing views is even more inspirational. Different views
can be devised by varying the size of open spaces, using
screens to mask change of use, and adding focal points. The paving here is
also used for the path
Circular table and
chairs for outdoor
From a second, more
secluded seating area,
Creating viewing positions by placing a seat or orienting through the garden, relaxation and the eye is drawn toward
providing continuity entertaining the bubble pool
a path along a vista will also direct attention. Remember
to consider the view looking back from the end of the plot,
as well as the main view from the house. Follow the blue
walking route through the overhead plan of this long, thin
family garden, designed by Fran Coulter; the numbered
viewpoints correspond to the images below and help
demonstrate how these ideas work in practice.

2 Eating outside
The table and chairs are near
the house, and are set against a
simple green hedge, which creates
a comforting sense of seclusion.

4 Looking through planting

From this angle, looking across the
planting to the seats beyond, the pergola
looks quite different and the garden takes
on a more organic, less formal appearance.

1 View from house

This is the most important view in the garden and
dictates the layout. The pergola reinforces and frames the
3 The tool shed
The slim shed on the patio is
both decorative and functional,
5 Water feature
A glance to the side reveals
another eye-catching feature.
view, and the inclusion of a flower-filled container as a adding a focal feature to this area Hostas and grasses frame a
focal point in the middle distance draws the eye forward. of the garden. discreet, low bubble pool.
 The play area is almost Borrowing beautiful views
hidden from the house by
judicious screening If you can see the surrounding landscape from your house, try
connecting it visually to your own garden. Consider framing a key
view, or opening up your garden, using a discreet barrier, such as a
low hedge or picket fence, to link it to the wider landscape. Think
about the view in different seasons and consider what it will look like
in winter when trees and hedges are more open. You may also need
to adapt your own garden planting to blend it into the landscape.
▷ Blending in
Here, there is no clear
8 boundary between the
9 garden and the land
beyond. One becomes
7 the other, and the garden
seems to stretch as far
as the horizon.

A container of KEY
white-flowering roses
stands on this brick circle, route through the garden
drawing the eye down the ▽ Framing a view
garden from the house direction of viewpoint This window to the outside
world is perfectly focused
on a tree-topped hill.

Disguising unattractive views

6 Shady corner
Beyond the pergola, the garden is Not all views are good. Within a garden, especially a small one,

8
more open and has a different character. Focal point there will be areas of utilitarian clutter, such as sheds or garbage
This area is hidden from the house, Circular features break up and cans, which are not especially attractive and may need screening.
and quite shady, providing the owner soften long, straight lines. The large Neighboring houses may overlook the property, spoil the view,
with an opportunity to use a different pot is a focus for this circular space
range of plants, such as leafy hostas. and can be viewed from all sides. and compromise privacy. Tall planting or screens can help to hide
eyesores, but if these are not an option, try adding an attractive focal
point elsewhere in the garden to distract and lead the eye away.

△ Covering an old shed

Garden sheds are often unwelcome focal
points. This rambling climber is a good
summer disguise, less effective in winter.

7 Relaxing family area

This swing seat is tucked
around the corner, just beyond
9 Play area
The play area is hidden behind
a semi-transparent screen, which
▷ Screening neighbors
The tall bamboo screen blocks the
view to the neighboring property
the pergola and faces toward the separates it, both physically and and provides an attractive backdrop
brick circle and the shade garden. visually, from the rest of the garden. to the planters.
34/35 How to design
FIRST PRINCIPLES

Geometric designs
Small, symmetrical, rectangular-shaped plots, often found in
Descending planes
towns and cities, are ideal for geometric layouts, although A progression of levels, low block
walls, rectangular beds, strip
some large rural gardens are also highly geometric. Most are lighting, and matching recliners
based on simple combinations of rectangles and squares, with produces a series of parallel lines,
giving this contemporary garden a
linear elements, such as walls, screens, hedges, and steps used dynamic feel. The planting is
simple, so it does not detract from
to reinforce the formality of the design. the strength of the overall design.

Layering shapes
By adding a variety of layers above ground level to or angled so that the shapes above eye level have
offer different views and experiences, gardens can be a different, but complementary geometry. Pergolas,
made more visually exciting and functional. These clipped-tree canopies, and roof-like structures all
layers can be set directly above the ground pattern, offer opportunities to layer your design.

Canopies provide
shade and create
a layering effect

Raised decks
are quick and
easy to build

Screens
and hedges
provide height

Hard-wearing
paving is best
at ground level

Overlapping layers Level changes

The arrangement of elements in this small To create visual interest, introduce subtle
garden breaks up a dull rectangular plot, changes of level using a range of different
and creates different spatial effects. materials, including water.

Circular designs
Layouts based on circles, arcs, and radiating patterns Dominant shapes
can be softened
help to create spaces that are full of movement. However, by planting
they are difficult to build from hard landscape materials,
and getting the geometry wrong will look unattractive.
Organic layouts (see pp.38–39) should be considered as Circular shapes
an alternative, if this is likely to be a problem. draw the eye to the
center of the garden

The converging lines

of the patio connect
the house to the lawn

Formal approach
A central lawn surrounded
by a radiating pattern
of low beds and clipped Directional design
hedges combines a sense This simple design focuses the eye on
of order with rhythm the center of the garden. A container or
and movement. sculpture could be used as a focal point.
Shapes on a diagonal
A classic design trick for long, linear,
and narrow plots, is to rotate a rectilinear
geometric pattern so that it is oriented along
diagonal lines. These layouts on a bias draw
your eye down the garden and encourage
views to the sides.

Dynamic angles
The diagonal lines of staggered beds, patchwork wooden
decking, and a raised pool make a bold statement, and
direct visitors through the space.

Twists and turns

A diagonal path with steps traces a zig-zag line through
the garden, providing areas to linger and enjoy the wide
beds and colorful planting.

Triangular beds
provide depth
for a range
of planting

Angled
rectangles
offer diagonal
lines and views

Different
materials add
interest and
break up
the space

Defining shapes
Here, rectangles of hard landscaping,
set side-by-side and edged with planting,
make the garden appear wider than it is.
36/37 How to design
FIRST PRINCIPLES

Symmetrical layouts
Throughout the world (except in the Far East), from the middle
ages to the early 18th century, gardens were not only geometric,
but also symmetrical. Inspired by Islamic and classical designs,
they transformed the landscape into a controlled work of art.
These formal layouts complemented classical architecture and
reinforced the belief that beauty derives from order and simplicity.

Contemporary symmetry ▷ Perfect harmony

This sophisticated garden illustrates
Contemporary layouts can adapt classical classical symmetry and demonstrates
symmetry to meet the requirements of the importance of proportion and scale.
modern living, such as creating space for
outdoor entertaining or for growing herbs Create a striking central
feature to accentuate
and vegetables. Good design also involves design symmetry
an understanding of a wide range of hard
landscape materials and the way in which
they can be combined to make a simple
and elegant framework for the planting.

Cool control Formal framework

A checkerboard of white paving and emerald A combination of rectangles with block
grass against a dark hedge offers a modern planting gives a strong structure that
interpretation of a traditional format. works well in a contemporary setting.

Informal planting Use a focal point to

draw the eye to the
Lush planting
can be used to
Symmetrical layouts are often less obvious end of the path soften edges

when viewed from eye level, especially when

taller plants are used. A variety of forms,
textures, and colors will also soften hard
lines and sharp edges. The combination of
formal design and more relaxed, informal
planting is a tried-and-tested formula, but
requires skill and discipline if it is to work
well. The balancing effect of a restricted
color palette and repeated plants, perhaps △ Softened lines
mirrored along a path, help to develop and The subtle haze of herbaceous planting spills
out from flower beds onto the path and contrasts
reinforce the symmetrical theme. with the formal garden layout.

Mirror image ▷ Repeated planting

In a symmetrical garden, dominant shapes Leading the eye through the garden, this long, airy
are repeated and guide you through avenue of grass demonstrates the compositional
a sequence of harmonious spaces. power of symmetrical planting.
Traditional and formal
Traditionally, it was the symmetrical pattern points, such as ornamental pools and
on the ground, such as a parterre of low fountains, dramatic sculptures or large urns,
hedging laid out around a central axis, that were added to enhance key points and to
dominated garden layouts. These geometric make the pattern more interesting from eye
designs are still popular in vegetable and level. Nowadays, when many planting styles
herb gardens today, where they allow easy are used, the geometric approach works
access to tend the beds. In the classical best when the overall design can be viewed
gardens of large estates, a sequence of focal from a terrace or house above.

Planting can be Crossing paths

changed seasonally lend themselves to
for different effects Islamic-style gardens

Planting edged
with dwarf
box hedging
reinforces the
formal pattern

Visual journey Circles and squares

Well-positioned focal points, such as this nautilus Reminiscent of a Celtic cross,
sculpture, create a strong sense of direction. The this layout divides the garden into
domes of box and clipped yew lining the path quadrants with a central focal
accentuate this effect. area, ideal for an ornament.

Permanent patterns
This formal layout of box-edged beds is
infilled with spring flowers, which will be
replaced as summer approaches.
38/39 How to design
FIRST PRINCIPLES

Organic shapes
As a general rule, organic shapes and layouts work best in Simple curves
Generous curves, wide
larger gardens and are especially suited to rural and semi-rural beds, and the addition of
a pinch-point draw the
locations. They are characterized by flowing lines, soft curves, eye around the garden.
the sympathetic use of landscaping materials, and relaxed
planting designs. These naturalistic gardens also evolve over
time as the lush planting matures, blurring the original layout.

Interlocking circles The top of the garden

provides an open
Developing two areas of the garden, expanse for a lawn
separated by a pinch-point, leads the eye or area of gravel

from one space to another, and offers both

open and enclosed areas. The organic layout
provides a setting where some shrubs and
trees can be allowed to grow to their natural Narrowing of the
lawn draws the eye
size, creating a backdrop for lower plants at to the center
the front of the beds. The narrow space
between the circular forms can also be used Smooth outline
to bring color and interest into the center of Use flowing lines for an
the design (right). This figure-eight layout organic and natural design,
and avoid fussy ripples or
makes the garden appear larger, as all areas sharp corners that will
are not visible from a single vantage point. interrupt the continuity.

Fluid lines
A simple device to draw the eye along the path, the spaces at the top and bottom are
garden, and to give the illusion of movement ideal for planting, a seating area, or an
and space, is to adopt an S-shaped design. ornamental feature, such as a pool. If these
Two circular areas are connected by a single two areas are different in size, the path may
fluid line, which can be developed into a be tightly coiled at one point and then more
snaking path or a flowing lawn. If used as a relaxed, providing contrasting experiences.
◁ Serpentine path
A coiling stone path An ideal spot for a pool
leads through robust or feature to be viewed
planting to a cave-like from a winding path
chamber in this children’s
play garden.

▽ Curved decking
The sinuous lines of the
deck and lawn complement
the subtle shades of the
surrounding foliage.

Meandering route
This curvaceous shape provides many
different views and vistas as you move
through the garden.
Sweeping curves
Curved lines may be placed to avoid an
obstacle, such as a tree, pond, or building,
or added to make a path that leads to a
particular destination. These are the fluid
lines found in the natural world and lend an
organic character to shapes and forms. They
Use gravel or
are frequently used to create calm, relaxing, bark for a soft
and unchallenging garden designs. organic look

Bold statement Gentle arc

Curving around a bench, this dynamic Wide curvilinear paths create generous
raised bed adds color and momentum space on either side for deep planting
to a paved circular terrace. beds or expansive water features.

Continuous journey
This C-shaped gravel path guides the visitor
between still water and soft planting. The
view around the curve is partly obscured,
which adds a sense of mystery.
40/41 How to design
FIRST PRINCIPLES

Multilevel layouts
Sloping sites provide an opportunity to create beautiful
spaces full of movement and drama. Working a plan
around the site’s natural slope will create a more
natural effect, while terraces offer structure and shape
for formal and contemporary designs. Drainage is an
important consideration, as any changes to slopes will
affect the movement of water (see pp.104–105).

Terraced slopes ▷ Steep terrace

Tiered wooden beams
Terracing makes a dynamic statement, and behind a low wall provide
can be used to extend the architecture of perfect conditions for
sun-loving plants.
buildings into a sloping landscape. Retaining
walls and steps are solid, permanent additions
and a long-term investment. Measuring and
building them are skilled jobs at both the ▽ Tree platform
design and construction stages. Wooden Decked platforms are
easier and less costly to
decking is a cheaper solution; materials are build than terraces, which
lighter, but not as long-lasting. involve major earthworks.

Gentle slopes
Gentle changes of level in a garden offer
visual interest and depth to the design.
For practical purposes, gardens with only
a slight incline can be treated as a flat site.
However, if completely level areas are
needed, for example, to accommodate a
table and chairs, it will be necessary to level
the ground and carefully consider the route
between changing elevations. A combination
of walls, steps, ramps, and terraces can be
introduced as required, to suit any design.

Gradual progress
Shallow steps, with space for decorative
pots, bridge a small pond and provide an
easy route up to the seating area beyond.
 Designing with steps
When building steps, the proportions of the tread
(horizontal) and riser (vertical) are both important.
Generally, they are more generous outdoors than
inside a building, with treads 12–20 in (300–500 mm)
deep and risers 6–8 in (150–200 mm) high. Materials
should complement those used elsewhere in the
garden, especially adjacent walls.
retaining wall
tread
Steep steps
These are a good
option if space is
limited, or when more riser
drama is required, but
they hinder fast
movement and can be
dangerous, so install
a handrail too.

Shallow steps
Although they take up
more space, shallow
steps allow a relaxed
progress through the
garden. The depth of
the treads also
provides space for
decorative pots.

Stepped ramp
A stepped ramp is
easy to negotiate and,
if shallow enough, can
accommodate wheeled
transport. It can be
useful where there is
not enough room for
a ramp.

Continuous ramp
Invaluable for
wheelchairs, bikes,
and so on, ramps also
provide a useful route
for wheelbarrows.
They need seven
times more horizontal
space than steps.

Natural hillside SAFETY ISSUES

The best advice when dealing with a hillside
For safety reasons, any surface
garden is to change a natural slope as little
higher than 24 in (600 mm)
as possible. The soil is likely to be shallow above surrounding levels should
and held together by the existing vegetation. be enclosed by a barrier 36 in
Drainage will be complex and removing (900 mm) high; railings, walls,
the native plant material may result in soil or fences are suitable options.
erosion and landslides, as the soil-binding
roots are lost. Try to work with the unique
contours of the landscape and make small, Adding a landing
thoughtful interventions over time rather A landing is desirable
at the top of a flight of
than significant alterations all at once. steps, and to provide a
resting place every ten
Nature’s way or eleven steps within
Uneven, weathered stone steps meander a long flight. It is also
romantically up through a secluded and Decorative restraint required when there is
naturalistic woodland setting. a change of direction.
42/43 How to design
FIRST PRINCIPLES

Using height and structure

The plants or features that give height and structure to a design greatly enhance the way a garden is
perceived and used. This is especially true of a straight-sided, horizontal plot, where introducing different
heights will create movement and dynamism. There are certain principles to bear in mind, such as the rules
of perspective, and it is useful to remember that the closer you are to a structure, the larger it will appear.
Use hard landscaping and planting to create the effects you want.

Height levels A see-through

It is practical to think about height levels in trellis distracts
the eye from
terms of how they relate to the adult human a shed
body, which affects how they are viewed and
experienced. Anything below knee height is The tree lifts
viewed from above. Waist-high elements are the gaze
upward
seen at an angle, and form a screen, partly
blocking views to anything immediately A painted,
behind them. At shoulder and head height, rendered wall
forms the
dense or opaque elements (such as closely boundary
planted tall shrubs, hedging, or high screens)
Low walls
will completely block a view. Structures double as
above head height, for example a tree seating

canopy, can create a sense of seclusion as the

sky and nearby buildings are obscured. Hard The lowest
landscaping provides fixed elements but all plane is lawn
further interest comes from planting. Indeed, Planting
combining plants of different heights is one of is repeated
at intervals
the key aspects of a successful garden. Few to provide
rhythm
built elements can compete with a mature
tree for interest and drama.

An outer wall
gives a sense
of enclosure
▷ Varying heights
This multilevel design shows the clever relationship Stones add
between the fixed height of the parallel low walls, a change of
and the natural variations achieved with perennials, texture
grasses, shrubs, and trees.

▽ Height levels explained

This diagram shows the relationship between the human Planting at A see-through The highest element
waist height screen stands is the rendered wall,
form and height levels within the garden. Planting, hard is seen at Low walling above head creating a backdrop
landscaping, and screens have all been planned to vary an angle around height
viewing angles throughout. The three low walls interrupt the knee height
punctuates An lawn area Paving adds Planting breaks
planting but do not obscure the view beyond. creates open a different up the flat
the space
space in the texture at expanse of wall
design ground level
Above head height

Head height

Waist height

Knee height

Ankle height
 Introducing height Temporary screens
A range of height levels gives variety and While pergolas and other built structures
interest to a garden, whatever its scale. provide height and solid overhead planes,
Elements that create instant height include they need support and can fill small gardens
barriers (walls, fences, screens, or trellises), with posts. If uprights would be a problem in
overhead structures (pergolas, arbors, or your garden, consider suspending temporary
canopies), and play equipment, such as a canopy screens to create shade and make the
child’s swing. Planting options are varied garden feel more intimate. Sail-like screens
and include trees, many shrubs, bamboos, are a good solution and they can be taken
climbers, hedges, and perennials for down when not required. They need to be
seasonal variation. Bear in mind that young attached securely, but can be an excellent
trees and shrubs need not be expensive, way of creating privacy in a small garden.
but take time to gain height. Built
structures cost more, but are quickly
realized and make permanent features.

△ Contrasts of height
The stature of these elegant olive trees is given greater
emphasis by the low planting below.

▷ Shielding neighbors
A combination of trees and shrubs behind trellis screens
provides partial screening and privacy from neighbors. Nautical screen
The painted frame adds height and structure to what A lightweight and elegant sail canopy provides shade,
would otherwise feel like a small space. does not clutter the garden with posts, and conveys a
feeling of intimacy to small urban gardens.

Using perspective
There are two important principles to of art, for example, may look too dominant Transparent screens
consider when using perspective (the way in placed in the foreground, but in proportion Trellis, glass, and other transparent and
which objects appear to the eye). The first is sited further away. By carefully positioning semi-transparent screens help to separate
that parallel lines in the viewer’s sight appear elements of different heights in the garden, garden spaces, without diminishing light. They
to converge at a point in the distance, known the rules of perspective can be exploited. are useful in smaller plots, where they allow
as the “vanishing point.” The second is that It is even possible to produce slight optical visual connections to be made, while
objects nearer to the viewer appear larger illusions, for example, by repeating motifs breaking up the space, and adding a change of
than those further away. A large tree or work at intervals to make a garden look longer. mood. Transparent screens also make
attractive features in their own right.

Repetition of this broad,

shallow curve makes the
garden seem longer and
wider than it actually is

The sculpture at
the far end makes an
appealing focal point
in the distance

Tricking the eye

The use and orientation Versatile trellis Glass panels
of parallel lines, and the The open latticework of This patterned glass panel
repetition of shapes, a trellis associates well allows light through but
draw the eye forward to with plants and climbers slightly obscures the visual
the sculpture, creating and may be left open or connection to the next
a sense of depth. screened with evergreens. area of the garden.
44/45 How to design
FIRST PRINCIPLES

Choosing structural elements

Boundaries are the frame within which your
garden sits and form the backdrop to the
space, especially in a newly planted garden.
Screens allow you to divide the garden into
smaller areas, and come in a variety of forms
and materials, while some garden structures
may even be works of art in themselves.
Boundary options
The main boundary choices are walls, fences, or hedges.
Walls are an investment, making a permanent addition to
the property, and can connect garden and house visually.
Fences are cheaper but shorter-lived, so bear in mind that
they will need replacing in time. Hedges take time to grow,
and need clipping, but form a soft, natural boundary.
▷ Wooden screen
A trellis clad in clematis
makes a decorative,
inexpensive screen.

▷▷ Mixed materials
Panels of concrete, painted
timber, and a planted
living wall create striking
textural contrasts.

◁◁ Bright squares
The mix of brightly
colored opaque and
transparent screens
makes a bold statement.

◁ Green colonnade
An interesting alternative
to a traditional continuous
hedge, these tall, clipped
conifers form a strong
background feature.

Internal screens
Adding screens and panels within the garden divides it
into smaller, more intimate spaces. They are especially
useful in predictable rectilinear plots, where they can add
interest and heighten mystery. Panels below waist height
allow views across the garden, taller screens separate
different areas, and gaps allow tempting glimpses of the
garden beyond. Consider the effect of opaque and
transparent screens and introduce colors and textures
to add visual contrasts. Supports and other frameworks
should form an important part of the design and, if well
planned, will help to reinforce the overall composition.
 Using natural forms
Structural elements can be introduced using planting alone. A range
of trees and shrubs can be trained to form hedges and screens with
great results. Patience is needed while slower-growing plants
mature, but this is a rewarding process. Natural forms suit
traditional gardens, but are not out of place in a modern design,
where clipped shapes, such as “lollipop” trees and sculptural plants
like bamboos, add spheres or lines to a design. Accentuate the
vertical lines of small trees by placing low-growing plants at the base.
◁ Bamboo screen
This bold planting of tall
Phyllostachys sulphurea
f. viridis is reflected in
the pool in front.

◁◁ Clipped trees
Here clipped “lollipop”
bay trees emerge from
box-framed lavender beds,
demarcating the dining
area. The slate terrace
lends textural contrast.

Sculptural structures
Screens and garden dividers of all kinds can be decorative in their
own right and, equally, a work of art can play a dual role and have
a structural function in a garden. By introducing a strikingly different
material, such as glass or metal, into a design filled with plants, you
can add exciting accents and heighten the drama. Glass may be
frosted or clear, printed with patterns or molded in different ways,
although even toughened glass may not suit a family garden. Metal
adds gleam and reflection to an otherwise matte series of surfaces.
Position sculptural structures where they can be fully appreciated.

▷ The path ahead

This unusual elliptical, wire
mesh tunnel, a work of art
in itself, invites use and
functions as both a screen
and a walkway.

▷▷ Frosty looks
The image printed on the
transparent and frosted
screen acts as additional
“planting.” Both the screen
and the seat appear to
float within the garden.
46/47 How to design
FIRST PRINCIPLES

Introducing color PRIMARY

Color is a powerful tool in garden design, influencing our Y T ER
IAR TIA
senses and the way in which we respond to the environment T ER
T RY

around us. Colors can also convey an atmosphere, mood,

or message: warm, vibrant colors generate a feeling of Secondary Secondary
immediacy, liveliness, and excitement, while cool colors
create a calm, spacious, often tranquil atmosphere.

T E R T I A RY

T E R T I A RY
Color wheel
The language of color is best understood using a color wheel—a
device employed by many artists and designers to explore the visual PRIMARY PRIMARY
relationships between colors and the effects different ones can
create when placed together. In particular, it helps us to see why TE
RT RY
some combinations work better than others, and why one color can IAR TIA
Y T ER
dramatically influence another to produce a startling contrast Secondary
or confer a harmonious continuity.

Primary colors Primaries blue Hues, tints, shades, and tones

Red, blue, and yellow, the largest and red produce The true colors or hues are
secondary purple
slices of color on the wheel above in the third ring of this wheel.
right, are primary colors, from The two central rings are
which all other colors derive. light tints, which are
These three hues cannot be mixed with white. The
mixed or formed by combining outer rings show how
other colors. adding black makes
darker shades. If
Secondary colors gray were added,
Two adjacent primaries will it would make
create a secondary color a tone.
when mixed together. These
secondary hues are green, Primaries red and
orange, and purple. yellow produce Add black to
secondary orange create a shade
Tertiary colors
These are made by mixing
adjacent primary and secondary Primaries yellow
colors in different quantities, and blue produce Add white to True
secondary green create a tint color
until the wheel becomes a
or hue
circular rainbow.

Introducing color in the garden

Planting combinations Hard landscaping Paint

Creating a variety of color combinations with plants When nothing is in flower, hard landscaping can Earthy tones, derived from natural pigments, work well
and flowers is exciting. You can alter the palette to provide color and interest. The effect is consistent, in more natural contexts, while bright, bold colors
produce changing colors for each season. although weather conditions may affect the colors. create a feeling of energy, excitement, and optimism.
Combining colors successfully
The opportunity to combine different tints and shades of various effects. The key concept involves working with harmony and contrast
colors makes garden design an exciting challenge; using a color wheel to develop a visual experience to engage the viewer. Those colors
can help our understanding of which combinations create the best allocated the most space in your design will become dominant.

Opposite colors
Two colors from opposite sides of the wheel are
considered to be complementary, for example, yellow
and purple, and red and green. The high contrast of
these colors creates a vibrant look, but they can cause
eye strain, too, and should be used sparingly.

Adjoining colors
Harmonious colors, selected from adjoining hues (also
called analogous colors) match well, are pleasing to the
eye, and create a sense of order. Choose one color to
dominate, and others to support it. Adjoining color
groups create a “warming” or “cooling” effect.

Triadic colors
Selecting three colors that are evenly spaced around
the wheel can instil a sense of vibrancy. This works
best with flower and foliage color rather than with hard
landscaping materials, where triadic combinations can
be overdone and appear chaotic.
48/49 How to design
FIRST PRINCIPLES

Color effects
In a garden, color is never perceived in isolation and
should always be considered as part of an overall design
composition that includes form, line, texture, and scale.
Other elements, such as the intensity of sunlight and
shadow, can also influence how colors are seen in an
outdoor space. It is important to understand how and
where to use different colors in your design to achieve
the best effects.

Color influence ▷ Shorten a view

A dominant color (red)
You can use color to attract attention to a particular placed behind a recessive
feature or area; the more an object contrasts with its color (green) will bring the
background forward. This is
surroundings, the more visible it becomes. Hues particularly effective if they
(saturated colors) are dominant and offer the highest are complementary.
level of contrast when placed together. Darker ▷ Lengthen a view
shades or lighter tints contrast less, although small If a dominant color (purple)
areas of light against dark, or vice versa, can create is in the foreground with
a harmonious recessive
an accent. Recessive colors, like cool blue or green, backdrop (green), the
give the illusion of distance. garden appears longer.

Outline Red on green Green on red

Without color, the outline of When red is placed on its The intensity is the same, but
this tree doesn’t stand out complementary, green, the as red is dominant, the green
from the background. colors appear to “vibrate.” tree is less clear.

Creating highlights
You can achieve some bold effects in a garden
using color highlights. Try contrasting one hue
against another, or combining adjoining hues
in close proximity (see p.47). Plants with
complementary colors (red and green, purple
and yellow) will intensify the brightness of each
other when placed together, while plants with
hues that are close to each other on the color
wheel (see p.46) (purple, red, and pink) blend
to form a harmonious effect. The introduction
of a single, intensely colored plant against a
recessive background (such as green or blue)
will make the bright plant stand out, and
△ Warm contrasts ▷ Bright white combining warm and cool colors can also
This group of yellow flowers While purple and green are
is highlighted against the closely related on the color result in eye-catching compositions that
dull red brick wall. The drift wheel, adding white creates highlight the more dominant color. (Note
of mauve flowers in the a stronger composition. As that white may appear recessive or dominant
distance contrasts with pure white reflects the most
the dark woods behind light, these pots stand out depending on the quality of the light.)
and the lighter green field. against the purple wall.
 THE PROPERTIES OF COLOR
Warm colors (reds, yellows, and oranges) can
make spaces appear smaller and intimate. Cool
colors (blues and whites) make areas look larger
and more open. Green is a neutral color.
REDS
Reds and oranges suggest excitement,
warmth, passion, energy, and vitality. They
stand out against neutral greens, and work
best in sunny sites but, if overused, can
be oppressive.
YELLOWS
Yellows are sunny and cheerful. Most are
warm and associate well with reds and
oranges. Greenish-yellows are cooler and
suit more delicate combinations.
BLUES
Deep blues can appear very intense, lighter
△ Color boosting sunlight blues more airy. Blues suggest peace,
The strong sunlight has a brightening effect serenity, and coolness. Purples carry some
on the yellow wall, and on the sizzling
intensity of the red flowers in pots and on of the characteristics of both reds and blues.
the hedge in the background. GREENS
The most common color in the plant
kingdom, green comes in many variations,
ranging from cool blue-green to warm
Light and shade yellow-green. They suggest calm, fertility,
Responding to color is a sensory reaction, and freshness.
like smell and taste, and the way in which
WHITES
our eyes read a color is dependent upon White is common in nature. It is a
the amount, and intensity, of light that is combination of all other reflected colors,
reflected from that color. Sunny areas and suggests purity and harmony. White
make colors appear bolder and more spaces seem spacious; the downside is they
concentrated, while shaded areas reflect can feel stark.
more muted hues. This means that flat areas BLACKS/GRAYS
of color—for example, a painted wall—may Blacks and grays are the absence of color,
look quite different depending upon their when light rays are absorbed and none are
aspect and orientation. Similarly, the hues of reflected back. Black is glamorous when
△ Nature’s neutral colors flowers and leaves will change depending on used sparingly, but depressing when
Beautiful effects can be achieved by combining a variety
of soothing grays, blues, and greens with light-catching their location, the degree of shade cast on extended over large areas.
whites and yellows, which brighten up a shaded area. them, and the time of day.

Tints, shades, and tones

A general guideline to remember is that
pure hues or saturated colors are more
intense, while colors that have been mixed
together are less vibrant. Black and gray
are rare in nature, but they do exist in the
form of shadows. A tinted color, which has
been “diluted” with white, will be lightened
and appear more airy and farther away.
A shaded color, which has been “diluted”
with black, will appear to be nearer. Tones
mainly occur when a color is cast into shade.
However, the quality of light in a garden,
such as on a bright sunny terrace or in a Tints Shades Tones
Hue + white = tint. The more white Hue + black = shade. Darker Hue + gray = tone. Seen mainly in
shady border at twilight, will affect the added, the lighter the color. Tints shades advance. They are warmer shadows, tones are less intense
way that colors are perceived. recede, but pure white may advance. and appear closer than pale tints. and appear muted.
Theory in practice
The planting scheme in this garden demonstrates the
color wheel in action. The palette is dominated by
oranges and blues, which, as opposite colors, produce
a brightly contrasting effect. Neutral whites and greens
help to soften the impact, while a steely gray backdrop
tempers the heat and picks up blue tones in the planting.
designer Catherine MacDonald
52/53 How to design
FIRST PRINCIPLES

Applying color
We tend to be more adventurous with color in the
garden than we are in our homes, perhaps because
the outdoor environment feels brighter and less
confined. The neutral greens of foliage and blues and
grays of the sky also have a softening effect on more
strident or clashing colors.

Vibrant colors
Strong colors can be used to dramatic effect in the garden: as bright
pinpoints that energize more subtle plantings, or surprise pockets of
color separated by greenery. In a flower border you can build up
from quieter blues and purples to crescendos of fiery reds and
oranges. These hot colors will stand out all the more by combining
them with a scattering of lime green, dark bronze, and purple foliage.
▷ Radiant hues
Use glowing flower shades
for hot, sunny aspects
where the colors will
really sizzle in the light.

▷▷ Hot seats
The colors used in this
seating area create an
upbeat atmosphere—the
ideal setting for stimulating
lively conversation.

Relaxing colors
The muted grays, purples, and blue-greens typical
of Mediterranean herb gardens create a restrained
atmosphere, perfect for a contemplative retreat. Plantings
that pick up the heathery colors of distant hills make a
space appear larger. However, a calming palette doesn’t
have to be muted; it can also include fresh greens and
pastels, which will work well in most settings.

◁ Refreshment
Fresh white, lemon, and
green combine with a
brighter pink to create an
uplifting but essentially
restful planting. Perfect
for an intimate seating
area tucked somewhere
away from the house.

◁◁ Country calm
The lavender and purple
sage add to the serene
color palette of this
formal garden with
an elegant bench.
 Neutral colors
Earthy browns and sandy tones are reminiscent of harvest
time and appear warm and nurturing, contributing to a
calm, relaxed atmosphere. Weathered wood elements
are perfect for gardens with a country look. In urban
locations, you can feel closer to nature by utilizing
reclaimed timbers, wicker and bamboo for screens, raised
beds, and furniture. For flooring, consider sandstone
paving, decking, or a shingle beach effect with pebbles.
◁ Muted tones
As they die back, perennials and grasses
continue to inspire, creating winter interest
and a harmonious palette of browns.

△◁ Rustic simplicity
Basket-weave stools and a table made
from a tree trunk blend seamlessly with
a rustic-style garden.

◁◁ Nature room
Blocks of wood provide a muted backdrop
for birches and the intermingling greens
of the grasses and foliage plants.

Monochrome colors ARTIFICIAL COLOR

Hard and soft landscaping in a restrained palette of black, gray, and
Colors that are rarely seen in nature
white, with the addition of green foliage, produce refined, elegant ▽ Spring whites tend to be the most attention grabbing.
designs. The approach is perfect for elegant period gardens with a This elegant design
Contemporary designers use Day-Glo
formal layout. White blooms and silver foliage also work well with comprises white forget-
me-nots, tulips, daisies, colored materials and lighting to give a
metallics in a chic city courtyard. Use cream or white flowers to and honesty with hostas space a more futuristic or avant-garde look.
enliven shade, and combine with variegated and lime-green leaves. and silver astelia foliage. You can include these colors with furnishing
fabrics, acrylic screens, and LED lights.

Day-Glo colors
Bold, cartoonish colors, such as bubblegum pink, lime
green, orange, and turquoise are so vivid they seem
to glow. While attention grabbing, use sparingly.

△ Black diamonds
Flanked by crisp green woodruff and
a low clipped box hedge, this stylish Painting with light
gray and cream gravel pathway with LED lighting is available in any color and can also
a black pebble mosaic makes an be programmed to create a sequence of changing
eye-catching focus for the small hues to produce spectacular effects in the garden.
front yard of a town house.
54/55 How to design
FIRST PRINCIPLES

Integrating texture into a design

It is easy to be seduced by color when selecting plants and materials for the garden, but form and texture are
equally important. Whether the design is a success or not depends on how well you combine the various
shapes and textures, not only on a large scale but also at a more detailed level. To emphasize the contrasts,
try to visualize in monochrome the hard and soft landscaping elements you are considering using, and pay
particular attention to how light affects different forms.

Types of texture
Experiencing different textures in the garden there may be more surprises in store as you contrast. There are a number of basic
is a crucial part of our sensual enjoyment of explore. Certain forms and surfaces invite categories describing texture, some of which
the space. You can often tell what something touch and the visual and physical effect is relate to how something feels and others to
is going to feel like just by looking at it, but heightened when there is great textural how light affects a material’s appearance.

Rough Smooth Gloss Matte Soft Hard

For rough textures Choose flat or rounded Shiny, mirrored surfaces Ideal for combining with Impossible to ignore, soft, Non-pliable solid surfaces
choose stone chippings, surfaces like concrete include many evergreens, glossy elements, matte felted, furry-leaved plants can be matte or gloss: cast
dry stone walls, weaved cubes and spheres, plain polished granite, stainless surfaces include cut are irresistible to the touch, metal, stone and concrete
fencing, peeling tree pots, smooth bark, and steel, chrome, still water, timbers, galvanized metal as are fluffy seedheads and walling, flint, granite setts,
bark, or prickly plants. water-worn cobblestones. and glazed ceramic. planters, and sandstone. grass-like stems. and terrazzo pots.

Combining textures
To introduce a variety of textures, combine contrast between two elements by making ▷ Textural contrasts
plain with patterned surfaces, shiny with matte, the difference marked. Pair strongly vertical Combinations of textures create the visual
smooth with rough, and so on, but don’t plants with horizontal decking, for example, excitement in this harmonious design.
Horizontal lines on the planter echo the
overdo the number of materials or the garden or a glittering, stainless steel water feature lines of irregular stones bedded in concrete,
could end up looking too busy. Accentuate the with matte-textured ferns and hostas. while the rill provides a glittering contrast.

Rough with smooth Gloss with matte Soft with hard

This walled courtyard pairs gravel and rough-cut stone Shiny glass and metal doors echo the visual qualities The wooden walkway, circular terrace, and snaking wall
with smooth spheres to dramatic effect. The dry stone of the swimming pool. These elements are separated are perfectly opposed by luxuriant “soft” plantings of
water feature cuts the sheer rendered wall in half. by the smooth paved terrace and matte rendered wall. hostas, irises, grasses, and marginals.
Choosing materials

It is not just planting that defines a garden. The texture and shape of the hard materials you select,
whether for surfaces, boundaries, or structures, are an integral part of the design. Different materials
add shape, color, and movement, to lure you in and to determine where the eye is drawn, while
materials sympathetic to the house or the local environment produce a more pleasing aspect.
When making your selection, consider the view from the house. Do you want to soften large
areas of hard landscaping by incorporating a mixture of materials—slate with gravel, or wood with
crushed shells, perhaps? Paths that are heavily used need to be solid, but a secondary walkway
can be constructed from gravel, bark, or stepping stones. Using the same material for a path and
a patio creates continuity; a change further along will suggest a
different area of the garden.
Laying materials lengthwise or widthwise draws the eye onward
or to the side, and obscuring paths invites exploration. Walls and solid
screens shut out the vista, while open screens and apertures provide
teasing glimpses of what lies beyond.
Furniture should be in keeping with the style of the garden. Ensure
any timber pieces carry the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) logo to
show that the wood comes from sustainable forests. Also consider the
location: if you want a large dining table and chairs, you may have to
Tall metal containers form
build a patio big enough to accommodate them. a divide in a gravel garden.
Most gardens will have a spot for a
water feature, as well as a piece of
art. If you plan to include lighting, the
electricity supply and cables must be
installed by a qualified electrician;
solar lighting has to be accessible
to sunlight. Outdoor heating is
becoming popular, too, but
consideration should be given
to its environmental impact. Permeable materials provide environmentally friendly parking.
58/59 How to design
CHOOSING MATERIALS

Materials for surfaces

Large areas of paving or decking are visually dominant
features, and have a significant impact on the appearance
of a garden. Select materials that reinforce your style,
complement the colors and textures used, and mix
different types to develop patterns and lead the eye around
the garden. (See also pp.352–363 for more on materials.)

Paving and decking

A strong design statement, or simply a block of uniform color, can
be achieved with large paved spaces. Bear in mind that when using
slabs, pavers, or bricks, the joints will form a pattern, too; the
smaller the unit, the more complex the pattern will be. Rectilinear
paving can be combined to form larger rectangles or grid layouts, or
use fluid materials, such as gravel and poured concrete, for curved
Decking with a twist
edges to make organic shapes. All paving must be constructed on a Decking is easy to cut and a good option for both geometric and organic
solid base, and should slope to allow drainage (see opposite). layouts, and intricate designs such as this, with its inlay of blue tiles.

4 in
12 in

4 in
24 in

12 in

24 in

Large pavers may need cutting Small pavers fit tighter spaces Small units best for intricate designs
When planning an area to be paved, try to avoid cutting Smaller units provide greater flexibility, and are more Using small units or even mosaic tiles allows you to
by making the overall area an exact multiple of units. If likely to fit exactly the dimension of your patio. They create intricate shapes and patterns more easily, but
it is not, larger slabs may require more cuts to fit. are also easier to cut, when required. these designs are often very time-consuming to build.

◁ Textured surface
This random paving
pattern is framed by a
strip made from the same
material, giving a clean,
sharp edge. Although
difficult to construct, the
light-colored textured
path works well against
the still water of the pond.

Paths and walkways

Paths are the arteries of the garden. Materials should be selected to
enhance the journey along the path, and to complement the planting
△ Horizontal paving on either side. Pavers, and the joints between them, can run
Bricks are used to frame the edge of lengthwise to give a sense of motion, or laid perpendicular to the
this formal path, and stone slabs laid
horizontally shift the focus to the planting. direction of travel to slow walking pace, and attract attention to the
surroundings. Choose paving that matches the garden style: bricks
◁ Bricks following direction or gravel are good for a cottage-style garden, and more up-to-date
The cottage planting is complemented
by a traditional brick path which leads materials, such as concrete and composites—or traditional materials
the eye to the gate. used with a contemporary twist—suit a modern space.
Mixing materials Planting opportunities
Assorted materials, as well as different Plants add color and texture when squeezed
textures and levels, can be used to dramatic into joints and crevices; take care to choose
effect in paving and decking designs. Use those that tolerate trampling, are relatively
different materials to highlight key features, drought-resistant, and ideally produce a
or to define and separate areas, such as a scent when crushed. Think carefully about
raised wooden deck over a stone-tiled floor. joints when combining paving and plants—a
Colors may be complementary or strongly solid foundation, while necessary for most
contrasting, but it is best to select pre-sized, paving, will also contaminate the soil.
coordinating materials, to avoid extra work
and higher costs. More complex construction
techniques may be required when working
with materials of varying thicknesses and
where a different foundation is needed.

△△ Wood and slate

This mix of hard and soft materials, with contrasting
colors but similar tones, has been combined on four
levels to great effect.
Plants between paving
△ Stones and mosaic Contrasting colors and textures are combined in this
Set on a concrete foundation, these small stone beautifully executed pavement, where mind-your-own-
blocks and mosaic tiles create a decorative pattern business (Soleirolia soleirolii) frames the paving.
around the trees and a foil for the gravel.

◁ Complementary textures Drainage issues

Four materials combine here—pebbles, granite,
slate, and gravel—to give interest and texture to All surfaces should slope to allow water
a threshold between two paths. to drain or be collected, and even gravel
surfaces may need extra drainage if laid on
clay-rich soil. Ensure that rainwater runs
Edging ideas away from buildings into collection points,
Most paving materials, except in situ (poured) concrete, such as gullies; water from small areas of
or those set on a concrete slab, will require an edge to paving can be directed into planting beds.
contain the material. The edge can be detailed or
functional depending on the style of your garden, and gully for
also connect or separate different materials, or areas of runoff

planting. However, you may not need an edge if you

intend to allow planting to invade your gravel pathway.
patio sloping away from house

▷△Pebbles Slightly sloping patio

Loose pebbles make an Create a slope away from buildings toward a collection
informal edge between the point. Patios made from rougher materials will need to
deck boards and the rill. slope more steeply than smooth ones.

water
▷▷ Slate and setts runoff into
This bold design is created dry well or
by slate paving butting up flower beds
to stone granite units.

▷ Gravel and paving Curved path

Make a design statement Paths can be profiled to allow water to run off on both
with a clear, decorative sides, where it can be collected in channels, or allowed
edging pattern. to drain into planting beds.
60/61 How to design
CHOOSING MATERIALS

Materials for screens and boundaries

Walls and boundary features, and the materials they
are made from, have a major impact on the look of a
garden. Traditionally, boundaries were constructed
from local materials, such as stone, brick, timber, or
hedging, but today your options are much broader,
and modern gardens may make use of smooth
rendering, metal screens, or reinforced concrete. If
you share a boundary your choice may be limited, but
if not, you can make it as subtle or as dominant as you
wish, and add a personal touch with your choice of
material, color, shape, and texture.

Walls and solid screens

Brick, stone, or rendered walls enclose spaces ▷ Stone
Well-constructed stone
and form a framework around the garden. Solid walls should last for
foundations and specialist construction skills may ever, but require an
expensive initial
be required, and these boundaries can demand a investment.
large proportion of your building budget.
The color of stone and brick walls is best ▷ Brick
Brick has been used for
left unaltered, so take this into account centuries and is durable
when making your choice. Consider the size and useful for creating
and shape of the units, too, which can range patterned designs.
from random rubble to expensive dressed
stone blocks. Man-made materials, such as ▷▷ Rendered
concrete, offer almost endless possibilities For flexibility and quick
and easy construction,
in terms of both color and shape, providing consider using rendered
clean lines or fluid structures. concrete walls.

Enhancing walls UNUSUAL MATERIALS

Once you’ve decided on a material, think render, or clay bricks, benefit from capping
As long as walls are stable and shed water,
about any details you could add, whether for or coping to frame the top of the wall and
most materials that are suitable for outdoor
aesthetic or practical purposes. You could allow water to run off. However, ensure that use can be used. Visit websites, look at
consider adding color to all or some of the it is in proportion to the size of the books, or visit trade shows, but remember
wall, depending on the material. Masonry structure. Planting in crevices is another that specialist construction techniques
walls, especially those made with mortar, possibility, but select species carefully. may be required.

Planting pockets Rendered coping Textured wall

Plants will soon establish in pockets of soil at the top or Coping keeps the body of the wall dry and protects it The walls of this small urban garden have been
on the face of a wall. Limited water will be available to from frost damage. It also forms an important visual covered with old billboard vinyl, for a dramatically
them, however, so choose species that can survive and element and can make a useful horizontal surface for individual, textured look.
flourish in dry conditions. a decorative effect, or for seating.
Fencing and trellis
Timber and metal fences do not require strong strip
foundations or heavy building materials, and so are
usually cheap and easy to build. Most are made from
strips of material, and you should think about a design
based on a combination of these “lines”. To unify the
design of an existing garden, it may be best to simply
repeat or copy the original fencing styles. However,
for new designs you can create patterns using different
lengths, widths, and shapes of timber. In exposed areas,
leave gaps in the fencing to allow some wind to pass
through (see diagrams below).

Effective windbreaks
Solid screens do not allow any wind to pass through
them and create turbulence on the leeward side. Use a △ Solid fence
perforated screen, such as a trellis, to solve this problem. This tall, close-boarded
Perforated fence creates privacy,
Turbulence screen allows Wind speed
Wind forced created on this wind through is reduced and has been stained
up and over side of fence on this side gray to enhance the
solid screen overall composition.

▷ Perforated fence
The strong pattern of
this fence complements
the garden, and acts as
a decorative windbreak.

Gates and apertures

While screens and boundaries enclose space, they also create barriers
that restrict movement and views. Punctuating these with doorways,
gates, windows, and other apertures allows access or visual links
to other parts of the garden. Importantly, these provide further
opportunities for attractive details, and should not be dismissed
as utilitarian access points. Choose complementary materials and
consider how apertures can frame vistas and views. Also, design doors
and gates that look attractive when both open and closed.

△ Picket fence
When closed, this picket gate blends
in with the rest of the fence; the only
breaks in continuity are the posts and
braces required for structural stability.
◁ Classic doorway
A traditional ledge-and-brace door makes △ Modern aperture
a beautiful contribution to this old brick This perforated, reinforced concrete screen
wall, as well as providing access. When would be difficult to construct, but the
left ajar, it gives an enticing glimpse beautiful results link the contemporary
through to another part of the garden. structure to the natural planting beyond.
Windows on the world
Dividing an outdoor space into different “rooms” helps to
make it look larger, but solid screens can be imposing and
create unwanted shadows, especially in a small garden.
Sliding glass panels are used to separate the spaces in this
ingenious design, bringing the architecture of the house
out into the garden with a deft lightness of touch.
designer Pip Probert
64/65 How to design
CHOOSING MATERIALS

Materials for slopes and structures

Raised beds, retaining walls, and similar structures that hold soil need to be constructed from water-,
frost-, and stain-resistant materials. Natural materials, such as stone and some metals, are obvious
choices, but rendered concrete and even sheet metal could be used for a more contemporary look.
For garden structures such as pergolas and sheds, choose materials that are lightweight and easy to
fit together, and that provide an opportunity to combine colors, textures, and patterns.

Retaining walls
Heavy or strong materials, such as stone, concrete blocks, bricks,
timber, sheet metal, or reinforced concrete, are necessary for a
retaining wall. Your wall needs to hold water as well as soil, and
will require a drain to relieve the build-up of water, unless you have
used a permeable material such as dry stone. You should consult a
structural engineer for advice on any impermeable retaining wall
above 3 ft (1 m) in height. Consider coordinating your wall with the
house, a water feature, or screen to help unify your garden style.
◁◁ Dry stone walls
A dry stone wall works well in rural
gardens. Place landscape fabric behind
the wall to trap soil but allow water to
pass through the gaps in the stones.

◁ Wooden walls
Timber walls are reasonably simple to
construct: the individual sections will
need to be screwed together for added
strength and stability.

Raised beds ◁ Contemporary beds

Although susceptible to knocks and dents, metal lends
Essentially low retaining walls, raised beds do a contemporary note to raised beds. Lighter colored
not need to be as strong or as heavy as larger and galvanized metals do not conduct heat as well as
darker metals, and are therefore less likely to scorch
structures. They can also be more elegantly plant roots.
designed, rather than serving a purely
functional purpose. Line beds with heavy-
duty plastic (with drainage holes punched in ▽ Country charm
For vegetables and native planting, consider woven beds
the bottom) to retain soil moisture and avoid to complement your design. They are comparatively
leakage and staining. Also choose materials short-lived and will need replacing after a few years,
but add rustic charm to a kitchen or cottage garden.
that complement the plants you plan to use,
as well as the composition of your garden.

△ Elegant containers
Beautifully detailed and finished timber beds can add to
the quality of a crisp, modern design. The addition of a
gravel margin will keep the timber pristine.
Garden structures
Many suppliers produce pre-fabricated garden structures, or you garden. Hardwood is expensive but durable and does not require
may prefer a custom design if you have something specific in mind, treating, but ensure that you use only FSC-certified woods from
and your budget allows. If you have a small garden, a structure can sustainable forests. A cheaper option is softwood, pressure treated
dominate the space, so plan carefully to ensure that it makes a for durability and stained with a colored preservative, or recycled
positive contribution to your design. The materials you choose for timber. Metal structures can be light, elegant, and contemporary,
the structure can reinforce a particular style. For a crisp, modern and galvanized steel, painted if desired, is a popular choice. Self-
look, combine clean-sawn timber with glass and stainless steel, or oxidizing metals such as Cor-Ten steel and copper (ideal for roofs),
consider rough-sawn timber for a rustic shed in a woodland-style which develops a green patina as it ages, should last indefinitely.

△ Open structure
This pergola is constructed
using powder-coated
aluminum combined with a
wood trim (see pp.272–273
for more information on
constructing a pergola).

▷ Blending in
The choice of dark stain
allows this large garden
office to recede into the
background, while the
stainless steel staircase
gives a modern touch.

Step style
To prevent timber and metal steps rotting
or rusting, they need to be supported on
a solid framework above soil level. Stone
slabs can also be constructed in the same
way. Alternatively, solid blocks of stone,
concrete, or timber can sit directly on
the ground on a slope, or smaller units,
such as paving slabs, can be used with a
retaining edge. Consider the surrounding
planting—you can allow it to “intrude” on
to, or grow through, your steps—and the Bound chippings Metal steps Wooden stairs
These stylish steps are made from Strong and durable, these stainless Timber steps supported on
material used for areas around the steps. galvanized metal risers and bound steel grid steps allow planting to posts and bearers, like these,
crushed CDs (an alternative to gravel). creep between them. can be built to any height.
66/67 How to design
CHOOSING MATERIALS

Materials for water features

When choosing and planning your water feature, make sure that it fits in with the composition of your
garden, perhaps using materials that feature elsewhere in the design. Water features can be complex, so
consult an expert or research water gardening in detail before planning one. Remember that you will
need to ask a qualified electrician to bring an electricity supply into the garden, and some specialty
water feature mechanisms and materials may also require expert installation.

Containing water
Waterproof masonry, such as concrete, will seal in the water in your
feature, whether it is a raised or sunken pool. Any material with joints,
such as bricks, will leak, so add a specialized render to the inside of
your pond, which can then be colored or clad with tiles; alternatively,
line it with a waterproof membrane such as polyethylene or PVC.
Take care not to add any decoration that could puncture the
waterproof layer or liner, and ensure that any joints where pipes enter
the pool are fully watertight.
◁◁ Raised pool
A pond like this can be created with a
pre-formed fiberglass liner, and enclosed
with brick walls that match other
garden features or the house.

◁ Wildlife pond
Covering the edge of a pond liner
with flat stones will protect it, but
ensure that they are smooth-edged
to prevent punctures.

Edging and lining streams

Natural-looking water features, such as the required rooting depth for your chosen
artificial streams or wildlife ponds, are usually aquatic plants (see p.98). Streams require a
irregularly shaped, and lined with flexible “header pool” or reservoir at the top of the
waterproof materials (see p.276). Ensure that slope, into which water is pumped from the
the pond is deep enough in places to allow lowest pool. Cover the edges of your pool or
The pump hose must sit
stream with planting or flat stones to conceal
above the water level the waterproof membrane.
A “spill stone” creates Choose smooth,
mini-waterfalls at each rounded pebbles to
change of level prevent damage to liner

Water is pumped into

the “header pool”
from the lowest pool

Lining a stream
A stream with waterfalls, like this one, can
be created in most gardens, as long as The watercourse should
be lined with sand
there is a slight change of level between before the liner is laid
the upper and lower pools. A pump will Naturalistic waterfall
keep water flowing around the stream, Make sure you buy This artificial pond is on two levels and has been lined
a pump with enough
maintaining a healthy water system, and power to deliver with a membrane covered with flat stones; large stones
rocks and pebbles can be used to disguise Liner laid over the water back to the overhang the edge of each level to protect the liner from
the waterproof membrane. whole watercourse top of the slope damage and to create mini-waterfalls.
Design materials checklist
The following table will allow you to quickly compare various materials, and their KEY
general suitability for the garden design and features you have in mind. This is intended Durability Cost
w low $ cheap
as a guide, and you should consult other sources (especially product websites) for ww medium $$ average
more comprehensive information when making your choice of materials. www high $$$ expensive

MATERIAL USE DURABILITY IMPACT ON COST CONSTRUCTION

ENVIRONMENT
POURED Simple construction easy; can be highly
Foundations, walls, pools, surfaces, steps www High $$
CONCRETE specialist
PRE-CAST Paving units, blocks, building units, Easy, but requires skill to achieve high
www High $$
CONCRETE reconstituted stone quality finish
DIY possible, but skill required
RENDERING Joints, surface finishes ww Medium–high $–$$
to achieve high quality finish
Paving, foundations, drainage, decorative
AGGREGATE www Depends on source $–$$ Easy, except wall finishes
finishes
DIY possible, but skill required to achieve
BRICK Paths, surfaces, walls, retaining walls www Medium $–$$$
high quality finish
EARTH DIY possible, but skill required to achieve
Walls, retaining walls www Low $$
CONSTRUCTION high quality finish
Variable: irregular stone needs skill for all
LOCAL STONE Paving, walls, structures www Medium $–$$$
but basic walling
Variable: irregular stone needs skill for all
IMPORTED STONE Paving, walls, structures www High $–$$$
but basic walling
DIY possible, but skill required to achieve
CERAMIC TILES Decorative finishes Mostly www High $–$$$
high quality finish
SOFTWOOD Construction timber, fences, gates, decks, Easy, but requires skill to achieve high
w – ww Low–medium $
TIMBER paving, structures, furniture quality finish
HARDWOOD Decorative details, fences, gates, decks, High if from DIY possible, but skill required to achieve
www $$
TIMBER paving, structures, furniture unsustainable source high quality finish
NATURAL WOVEN Quite easy, but requires skill
Fences, hurdles, planters w Low $
TIMBER to achieve high quality finish

MILD STEEL Fences, railings, fixings, structures

ww if not Medium $$ Difficult—requires specialist skills
protected

STAINLESS STEEL Fences, railings, fixings, structures www High $$$ Very difficult—requires specialist skills

SPECIAL STEEL
Fences, railings, fixings, structures Mostly www Variable $$$ Very difficult—requires specialist skills
ALLOYS
DIY possible, but skill required to achieve
ALUMINUM Lightweight structures, greenhouses www Medium $$
high quality finish

COPPER Pipework, decorative cladding www High $$ Difficult—requires specialist skills

ZINC Planters, decorative cladding www Medium $$ Difficult—requires specialist skills

Screens, barriers, windows, surfaces,

GLASS ww High $$$ Very difficult—requires specialist skills
glasshouses

PLASTICS Pipes, furniture, fixings, decorative facings ww High $ Variable—DIY possible

PLEXIGLAS Screens, structures, windows ww High $$ Difficult—requires specialist skills

68/69 How to design
CHOOSING MATERIALS

Designing with furniture

A well-placed bench or chair is an invitation to spend
time relaxing in the garden. Whether permanent or
temporary, garden furniture can have a marked effect
on the look and feel of an outdoor space. The
sculptural qualities of a particularly eye-catching or
stylish piece of furniture could even be viewed as
garden art. Of course, looks aren’t everything, so do
ensure that your chairs and tables are comfortable
and practical.

Matching your garden style

Furniture has the potential to strengthen a design and create focal
points within it. When the style of a plot is distinctive, such as in a
Japanese garden, it’s best to choose elements that follow the theme
faithfully or that have a strong visual relationship to it. For example,
cottage garden seating is likely to have a softer, more rustic and
homespun feel. You might use wicker or reclaimed farmhouse
kitchen furniture. In contrast, seating for contemporary settings
works best if it has sleek, minimalist lines and is made from modern
materials and fabrics, such as aluminum, plastic, or synthetic rattan. △ A secret corner
Simple foldaway furniture, light enough to carry around,
The architecture of the house often influences garden style and in the is ideal for making use of different areas of the garden.
grounds of a period property, pieces from the wrong era can stand Consider painting it to create highlights.
out like a sore thumb. You don’t have to source originals however:
many companies offer quality reproductions.

Integrating furniture into a design

The size and shape of the available space will influence the type of
furniture you choose; intimate corners surrounded by planting may,
for example, only have room for a couple of foldaway seats. For
outdoor dining, carefully calculate the size of table and chairs you can
accommodate, to ensure a comfortable fit, and select furniture that
mirrors the shape of your terrace or patio—a round table on a
circular patio not only fits perfectly, but also accentuates the curved
layout. A decorative seat can make an excellent focal point.
△▷ Minimalist lines
Large pieces of furniture, like this modern
deckchair, need space and a simple
backdrop to allow their sculptural qualities
to be fully appreciated.

▷ Integrated design
Try to match furniture to your design.
This quirky, rustic site is enhanced by the
custom wooden bench seat constructed
from reclaimed materials.

▷▷ Space to lounge
Consider the size of the available space
before buying furniture, or design your
garden around chosen pieces. This sofa
fits perfectly beneath its modern canopy.
Practical considerations Environmental factors
If you want to keep your furniture outside all Tropical hardwoods like teak have long
year, check before you buy that it is resistant been used to manufacture garden furniture
to rain and UV damage. Modern synthetic because of their natural durability. However,
rattan furniture and plastic or resin pieces this type of timber is not always obtained
often come with guarantees, but while sofas from a sustainable source, and uncontrolled
and chairs with all-weather cushions will dry logging is having a devastating effect on the
quickly after a rain shower, it is a good idea environment. Always check the source before
to cover them when they are not in regular you buy; temperate hardwoods such as oak
use—an outdoor storage locker could prove or more durable softwoods are likely to be
useful for this. To retain the original patina “greener.” Also look for furniture that has
on wooden furniture—which weathers and been manufactured from reclaimed wood,
may change color if left outside all year— which can add a rustic quality to a design.
clean, oil, or varnish it regularly, and, if
possible, cover it during the winter.

△ Outdoor sitting room

Buy plush, upholstered furniture with fade-
resistant, shower-proof covers, and ensure
that the frames are sufficiently durable for
outdoor use. Protect heavy pieces in situ.

◁ Dining in style
Hardwood, aluminum, and synthetic woven
mesh combine in this stylish yet durable
dining table and chairs for a contemporary Greener options
urban garden by Wilson McWilliam Studio. Check for Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certification
on wooden furniture, to ensure that forests have been
managed in an environmentally responsible way.

STORAGE IDEAS
In small urban gardens in particular, the lack of
space available outdoors to store items such
as gardening equipment, furniture cushions,
and children’s toys can present a real problem.
One option is to choose garden seating that
also provides storage, such as benches with
hinged lids for access. Use a liner inside your
storage to create a waterproof area to keep
more delicate items safe. Alternatively, buy
garden cupboards and boxes specifically
designed to store cushions over winter
from specialist furniture suppliers.

Storage lockers double as garden seating.

70/71 How to design
CHOOSING MATERIALS

Furniture styles
Larger garden centers and home improvement stores stock outdoor furniture through spring and summer,
and you can often pick up bargains by waiting until later in the season to buy at sale time. However, if you
cannot find what you are looking for locally, check out magazines and newspaper advertisements, or search
the internet for furniture specialists. Once you start looking for furniture you’ll realize that the choice is vast,
so persevere to find pieces that fit your garden style perfectly.

Traditional rustic
In more relaxed country- and cottage-style
gardens, sleek furniture could well look out
of place, though modern pieces with organic
forms based on natural shapes may be
appropriate. Quirky, reclaimed furniture
is worth seeking out, as well as woven and
wicker sets. The latter will weather rapidly,
so you’ll need a convenient storage place,
such as a summerhouse or shed. Don’t be
afraid to mix and match country styles with
classic pieces: lightweight, portable foldaway
tables and chairs made from wood and metal
can work well in period gardens with Simple style Willow weave
Traditional, hard-working, or utilitarian Though not as durable as wood, wicker
authentic-looking reproductions, such as designs add to the relaxed atmosphere furniture, like this circular tree seat, adds
Victorian fern seats or Lutyens-style benches. of a cottage- or country-style garden. romantic charm to an old-fashioned plot.

Chic modernist
A seating area dressed with designer furniture makes a strong
statement, particularly in urban courtyards and on roof terraces,
where the garden often functions as an extension of the house.
Modern, minimalist items made of steel and synthetic mesh fabric
or man-made rattan can add style and comfort to a contemporary
design, while all-weather beanbags add colorful highlights. This look
is about bringing interior style outdoors, so cushions and matching
light fittings and containers play an important linking role.

◁ Sixties model △ Inside out

This up-to-the-minute design echoes Only glass doors separate the house and
styling of the 1960s. The doughnut form garden, while the deck, with its stylish
contrasts well with the sparse backdrop. furniture, blurs the boundary further.
Contemporary looks Integral seating
It’s hard to put your finger on why certain seating shape is updated for the 21st century You can create impromptu seating simply
furniture styles have an up-to-date feel, but, using high-tech materials; sometimes designs by utilizing steps, sunken areas, and the
in general, clean lines and plain, neutral- from previous decades experience a revival. walls of raised beds: just add a few cushions,
colored fabrics coupled with man-made Today’s designers are increasingly developing and you can accommodate a large group of
elements like steel, glass, and chrome appear the architectural role of furniture, as well as people with ease. Elsewhere, a seat or table
modern. Sometimes a traditional item or working on integrated or site-specific designs. could follow the contours of a landscape
feature, such as a serpentine wall.

△ Spiral appeal
This curving, raised walkway culminating
in a seat that “floats” on transparent glass
is a piece of sculpture in its own right.

◁ Samurai seats
The Japanese influence in this modern
set, with its minimalist lines, helps create
an atmosphere of calm in a green oasis.

Built-in beauty
Furniture as art Integrated seating can have an intimate feel. A cosy
nook for relaxation could be created in a wall alcove,
There’s no doubt that the sculptural qualities as here, or perhaps carved into a tall hedge.
of certain furniture items, typically in wood,
metal, ceramic, or resin, puts them into a
different category from everyday functional Temporary seating
seating. You can order sculptural furniture As your garden changes through the year,
online and find artists via their websites, but different areas will become more or less
it is also worth visiting the studios of local attractive or accessible. A portable seat,
craftspeople, as well as gardening shows and such as a director’s chair, allows you to
galleries, to commission custom items. If △ Modern abstract ▽ Sleek in steel take advantage of particular settings, or
possible, allow the artist to see the garden The organic form of snail These boldly sculptural to follow the sun around the garden.
and the site for the piece, or provide as shells has been the chairs are constructed
inspiration for this original from a perforated steel
many photographs as possible, as this can bench with a carved that softens their impact
really affect the success of the design. wood seat. in the overall design.

Deckchair classic
The wonderful thing about collapsible furniture is that
you can easily move it to where it’s needed, and view
the garden from different angles.
72/73 How to design
CHOOSING MATERIALS

Integrating sculpture into a design

When choosing sculpture, you don’t need to be limited by what’s on offer in your local garden center.
Many objects take on sculptural qualities when placed in a garden, including beautifully shaped ceramic
vases, driftwood, rounded boulders, or even pieces of disused machinery, so be as imaginative as possible.
Think carefully about the relationship of your sculpture to the rest of your garden, where you will position
it for best effect, and how its appearance will change over time.

Choosing sculpture
The appeal of a sculpture depends largely
on your emotional response to it. You may
prefer abstract shapes for the garden,
especially if the style of your plot is sleek
and modern, but wildflower gardens or
woodland can also provide an exciting setting
for a contemporary piece. Equally, classical
statuary can add an element of surprise in
a modern rectilinear layout, and will enhance
an urban space. In cottage gardens, try
figures of domestic animals, beehives,
or rustic farm equipment.

▷ Plant Form
This rusting iron sculpture, reminiscent of a flowering
plant, works well in the Mediterranean-style setting.
As the surface weathers, the patina will subtly change.

△△ Figurative
With one toe dipping into the water, this
figure adds a relaxed and humorous
touch to this contemporary landscape.

△Topiary
Clipped greenery, a type of living
sculpture, has many forms and includes
Japanese cloud pruning.

◁ Abstract
The rectangular leaping salmon wall art is
perfectly balanced here by the tall, narrow
sculpture set amongst the planting.
Positioning sculpture Commissioning a piece
Take time to find the right spot for garden You may discover someone whose work
art and to integrate it into your design. Some you admire by visiting national or regional
pieces work best surrounded by reflective gardening shows, dropping in at an artist’s
water, or by plants in a border. Contrast studio open day, or checking sculpture and
simple, solid shapes with diaphanous grass land art websites. Help your chosen artist to
heads, for example, or view them through visualize what you have in mind with rough
a haze of lavender. Intricately detailed sketches and photographs and, if possible,
sculptures look best with a plain backdrop, organize a site visit for them. Agree at the
such as a rendered wall or clipped yew outset on the design, its dimensions, and
hedge. Matte surfaces like natural stone or the materials to be used, as well as confirming
weathered timber create a foil for highly a price and delivery date for the work.
polished metals, and you can use these
materials to mount smaller sculptures, too.
Materials and cost
There are often less expensive alternatives to
traditional sculpture materials. Reconstituted
stone, terra-cotta, or ceramic ornaments, for
example, are far cheaper than carved stone,
and bronze resin costs less than cast bronze,
while lead statuary reproductions are
relatively inexpensive. You may also find
artists working with driftwood or reclaimed
wood, rather than expensive hardwoods.

△ Focal point △△ Gazing skyward

This abstract piece appears to hover over the surface John O’Connor’s bronze child takes your gaze up to
of the pool, which also reflects its image, and makes decorative fretwork on a pavilion roof above, while
an eye-catching focal point in this small garden. the color blends harmoniously with the timber frame.

Scale and proportion

A small piece of sculpture may be lost in
a large, open site, but bring it into an
intimate courtyard and you’ll find that it’s in Hidden torso
Half-hidden by foliage, this weathered terra-cotta torso
perfect proportion to its surroundings. Try appears to grow out of the landscape, and would be a
“anchoring” small ornaments by placing fraction of the cost of a bronze piece.
them next to a solid piece like a boulder, a
hunk of driftwood, or an oversized vase.
Alternatively, mount decorative objects
THEFT AND PROTECTION
and plaques, fit them into alcoves in walls Use common sense when placing your
and hedges, or raise them closer to head sculptures: try to keep them out of sight of
passers-by, and consider using alarms or
height on plinths. To gauge the size of
security installations. For a front garden,
sculpture required for a site—when choose pieces that are too large and heavy to
planning a focal point at the end of a formal be carried off easily, and keep them close to
path or at the side of a pool, for example— the house. Ensure that garden sculpture is
△ Space to perform use piles of cardboard boxes or plastic covered by your home insurance, and let your
The tall, cartoon-like figure of a girl striding briskly
across the garden creates focus, but needs a large garbage cans to help you visualize how the insurer know about new purchases.
area to convey her energy and momentum. sculpture will fit into the proposed setting.
Garden gallery
As well as providing a decorative focal point, sculpture
can transform your garden more generally into a space
for art, imbuing it with deeper meaning. In this garden
themed around healing, the sculpture of a woman in a
striking pose looking upward, set against a dark yew
hedge, could be interpreted as a symbol of hope.
designer Ruth Wilmott sculptor Rick Kirby
76/77 How to design
CHOOSING MATERIALS

Designing with lights

The beauty of installing creative lighting is that you can design an entirely different look for your garden at
night. Soft, subtle lighting, bringing just a few choice elements into focus, is relatively straightforward and
makes the most of differing textures and contours. More theatrical styling is possible with the wide range of
specialist lighting equipment available. There are important aspects of safety and security to be considered,
and you should always discuss your plans with an electrician.

Lighting in the garden

Flooding the garden with light from above any garden illumination, and make the out cabling circuits and plug points, and talk
creates too harsh an effect, and can cause nighttime experience all the more through your ideas with a qualified
nuisance to neighbors and add to the enchanting. Draw up a plan, taking into electrician or lighting engineer, preferably
problem of light pollution. Avoid strong lights account the type of lighting required in each before completing any new landscaping
that may shine directly into the eyes of an area, such as recessed lighting for a deck, work. You can experiment with different
onlooker. By maintaining areas of shadow directional spotlighting for a barbecue grill, lighting effects by simply using a powerful
you can accentuate the theatrical effect of or underwater lighting for a fountain. Work torch, or torches, held at different angles.

Nightlife Ways with water Colored glow

Outdoor rooms used for relaxation and entertaining can Moving water features such as cascades are easier to In contemporary settings, restrained use of colored lights
be lit in a similar way to indoors with low-level lamps, light than static pools, as the surface disturbance masks can create stylish effects. Programed, color-changing
and mini spots to highlight decorative elements. the light source, while planting can hide cables. fiber optics are an option for dynamic shows.

Practical considerations
Unless you plan to use solar-powered lights, transformer in a waterproof casing or locate it switch so that you can turn the lights on and
you need a convenient power supply. Special inside a building. A transformer reduces the off easily. LED (light-emitting-diode) lights
waterproof outdoor sockets must be installed voltage from the mains to a lower level at are both energy efficient and create no heat,
by a qualified electrician, and any power cables which many garden lighting products work. making them particularly safe to use in the
will need armored ducting to prevent The size of transformer you will need depends garden; you will find a huge selection available.
accidents. When using low-voltage lights that on the power and number of lights you plan to If an area is sufficiently sunny, solar-powered
run from a transformer, house the use. Ask your electrician to install an indoor lighting is another good option.

Safe passage Path lighting Flickering flames

If you plan to use the garden at night, illuminate Post lights come in a wide variety of designs, including Candles, lanterns, and oil lamps create a magical
pathways, steps, and changes in level using low-level many solar-powered models, and sets that run from atmosphere. Never leave them unattended, and take care
lighting, and angled recessed lights to avoid glare. a transformer. Position in the border to light pathways. to keep naked flames away from flammable materials.
 Lighting effects
Tiny LED twinkle lights running from
a transformer are simple to install, and
create a romantic ambience when woven
through climbers on a pergola. Mini spots
are great for uplighting an architectural plant
or a piece of statuary, or for highlighting
textured surfaces. Recessed, low-level
lighting in steps, walls, and decks casts gentle
light without glare, and colored lighting can
be used to create contemporary effects,
floodlight trees or rendered walls,
or to light pools. For a contemporary look,
try small white or colored LED spots set into
a decked area or a few underwater lights
to illuminate a clear, reflective pool.

△ Mirroring
A single source of illumination bathes this poolside
terrace in soft light and produces a perfect reflection
in the black, unlit surface.

▷ Uplighting
Matt black mini uplighters are inconspicuous during the
day, but can be angled to reveal the shape and texture of
plants, decorative elements, walls, and screens at night.

▽ Floodlighting △ Spotlighting
Bright, even lighting is mainly used for security and can Using a directional spotlight mounted high on a wall
be triggered by infrared sensors. Mini halogen floods and angled in and down towards the subject, you can
can also be used for dramatic up- or downlighting. highlight an area without creating irritating glare.

△ Backlighting △ Grazing
Low-level backlighting throws the foreground elements This term refers to the effect achieved by setting
into relief and creates dramatic shadow patterns on the a light close to or along a wall or floor. It can be angled
wall behind. You can also backlight decorative screens. to illuminate an area, and reveal texture and form.
78/79 How to design
CHOOSING MATERIALS

Choosing lighting and heating TYPE OF LIGHT

This table shows the
With such a wealth of creative garden lighting now available, it can be difficult to decide pros and cons of the
what’s right for you: this section looks at the relative merits of each option. Heating main forms of lighting,
but for most types it
systems are becoming increasingly popular and allow you to make more use of your is also best to discuss
garden in the evenings and during cooler weather. However, some heaters and fires are your requirements
with an electrician or
not energy-efficient, so choose carefully and use them in moderation. lighting engineer.

Types of lighting
Garden lighting has been revolutionized by the
introduction of efficient LEDs, and more reliable and
sophisticated solar-powered units. LEDs offer all kinds of
“designer” effects, including lights that change color and WHERE TO PLACE
systems that can be controlled via a smart phone. While
DIY stores carry an increasingly wide range, the largest
choice can be found online and via specialist companies.
With the exception of solar-powered lighting, candles, EXTENT OF
and oil lamps, all other illumination devices need to be ILLUMINATION
connected to an electricity supply. Lights either receive
power directly from a wall socket or through a
transformer that provides a low-voltage current—ideal EXPENSE
for a garden, as water and electrical current are a lethal
mix. Always employ a qualified electrician to install
lighting and make connections to an electricity supply.
INSTALLATION

Light show
This garden by Janine Pattison Studios is bathed in MAINTENANCE
light in the evenings, with subtle LEDs grazing the
walls and illuminating the modern water feature.

Heating in the garden

Introducing some kind of environmentally-friendly timber, and make sure you read the instructions on
heat source into the garden extends the use of the appliances to check the type of fuel you can burn. Safety
plot into the cool of the evening or in spring and fall. gloves are a must as fire grates get very hot, and make
Wherever possible, burn logs and prunings cut from sure you allow chimeneas to cool before covering them.
your own garden. Never use treated or pressure-treated Keep a fire extinguisher handy, and use fireguards.

TYPE OF HEATING PROS CONS

FIRE PIT DIY build possible. Some designs portable. Needs space and safety screen. Ash may stain
Focal point, with potential for 360° seating. light surrounds. Poses a danger to children and
Heats and cooks. Burns garden prunings. pets—do not leave unattended.

FIREPLACE Many different models including cast-iron Larger models, including those made from stone,
stoves. Stone and brick styles can form a take up space and are permanent fixtures. Cast
major garden feature. Burns logs. iron rusts.

CHIMENEA Fits into a small space. Clay designs often Both clay and metal types can crack. Clay may
very decorative. Easy to cover and protect start to crumble after absorbing a lot
from weathering. of moisture. Tricky to clean out ashes.

GAS/ELECTRIC Convenient and no cleaning up afterward. Burns fossil fuels. Highly inefficient considering
Instant heat and/or cooking with flexibility: amount of energy used and heat produced. Heavy
easily controllable. cylinders for gas heaters.
 LED LIVE FLAME ELECTRIC SOLAR-POWERED

Almost anywhere in the garden. Can be Candles, oil lamps, and lanterns may be Fluorescent and halogen lights are used for Edge of pathways/patios, in ponds
used as pool lighting, recessed lighting, placed on the ground, in wall niches, on security, spotlights, and lamps, although (floating/rock lights), on walls, and by
fairy lights, spots, or for security. tables, hung from hooks, or floated. less extensively—LEDs are favored now. plants. Some types suitable as spotlights.

Very bright for the size of unit. Casings Low-level, atmospheric lighting. Varies according to fixture—halogens Units fitted with modern solar-powered
can enhance and focus light output, while Candelabras and lanterns are suitable can illuminate entire garden. Colored LEDs can be quite bright. Strength of
diffusers help to soften it. for outdoor dining. fluorescents are for special effects. illumination depends on battery type.

Initial costs of units vary considerably, Candles, gel, and oil lamps are inexpensive Relatively inexpensive to buy but running Costs vary considerably depending on
but the running costs are very low and compared to electric fittings, but do not costs add up, and the bulbs will need to be quality. Lights require no main power
the bulbs can last for years. offer comparable lighting. replaced more frequently than LEDs. installation and running costs are zero.

The same as conventional bulbs—running Take care to position live flames safely on Lighting can run off a wall socket or Safe and easy DIY lighting. Needs sunny
off wall socket or transformer. Useful a non-flammable, level surface in shelter. transformer. Consult a qualified electrician spot to operate well. May not light the
for hard-to-reach areas. Never leave a candle or lamp unattended. for installation (see opposite). garden for as long in winter.

LED bulbs last many times longer than Trim wick to keep candle flame low and Replace bulbs when they burn out. Keep Photovoltaic cells need regular cleaning.
other types, and once installed require efficient. Extinguish with a snuffer. Do not wall lamps and infrared sensors clean. Good quality rechargeable batteries
very little or no maintenance. move candles when wax is liquid. can last up to 20 years.

△ Chimenea
The chimenea, originally a Mexican device for heating
and cooking, comes in several different designs. Ensure
that the fire is just below the opening to prevent smoking.

△ Fire pit ◁ Fireplace

An updated version of the campfire, This grand fireplace dominates the garden, creating
fire pits are a draw at social gatherings a dramatic outdoor dining area. Simpler, smaller models
and may also be used for cooking. for average-sized gardens are widely available.
Designing with plants

Plants perform at their best when provided with the correct combination of growing conditions,
and learning about their needs and the kind of soil they prefer will help you devise the right
planting plan for your plot.
Including examples from a range of plant groups should ensure interest year-round. Trees
and shrubs give height, depth, and shade, as well as the essential framework. Evergreens retain
their leaves, so are useful for all-year interest, and the shimmer of frost-covered deciduous plants
is one of the pleasures of a winter morning garden. Scented climbers, grasses, perennials, and
annuals all have their part to play, while spring bulbs and biennials
bring a seasonal burst of color, just when fresh novelties are most
needed in the garden.
Plants are very versatile. A structural plant can be a single
specimen, such as a stunning cardoon taking center stage in a
border, or a group of plants, perhaps a box hedge clipped to enclose
a parterre. Focal plants attract and guide the eye. They don’t have to
be long-lasting: a lovely individual specimen with vivid flowers or leaf
Select plants like dahlias for shape as
tints works as well as an evergreen spiky Phormium or sculptural tree. well as color.
Midrange plants include shrubs, grasses, and
herbaceous perennials, and they can help define the
style of your garden. Mix strong leaf shapes and flowers
and foliage with different colors and textures for a
dynamic display. Ground cover is another potential
element; choices range from a neat, evergreen carpet
to a blowsy show of flowers or scented drift of herbs.
From the heart-lifting first bulbs of spring, through to
summer blooms, and on to fall foliage and scented
winter-flowering shrubs like Mahonia, seasonal
planting is a constantly evolving delight. You can
stick to your chosen style, or throw in the odd surprise
for fun. Designing with plants is the exciting—and
never-ending—pleasure of gardening. Use layers of plants to create stunning effects.
82/83 How to design
DESIGNING WITH PLANTS

Understanding plants
Garden plants come from a great number of different habitats around the world and vary in their needs.
Providing them with the same conditions in which they grow in the wild is the best way to ensure that they
will thrive in your yard. A plant’s appearance—the leaves, in particular—can give you a basic understanding
of its requirements, but it is best to read the plant label carefully, too. Remember that plants which share
a natural habitat will also look good together in the garden.

Shade- or sun-loving? PLANT GROUPS

Imagine the conditions in which a shade- midday sun and buffeting winds. Silver or
loving plant grows. Light levels are low, so gray leaves with reflective surfaces and ANNUAL
it probably has dark green leaves full of protective hairs are less likely to dry out. A plant with a life cycle of one year. Usually
very floriferous because of the number of
light-catching chlorophyll. Protected from Leathery or succulent leaves also indicate
seeds it needs to yield in order to reproduce.
damaging drying winds and scorching sun, good tolerance of heat. Many plants fall
it can also afford to have large leaves. Now between these two extremes, but, in BIENNIAL
imagine a plant that has to cope with sizzling general terms, leaves are a useful guide. Plants with a two-year life cycle, producing
foliage the first year and flowers the next.
Canterbury bells and wallflowers are biennials.

PERENNIAL
Non-woody plants that can live for years.
Most die down to the ground in winter and
come up again in spring; some are evergreen.

EVERGREEN
A plant that retains its leaves all year round.

DECIDUOUS
A plant that loses its foliage during winter,
then produces new leaves in spring.
Shade-tolerant plants Sun-tolerant plants
Moist and shady, sheltered conditions allow large-leaved Full sun and dry soil make a testing environment for a GRASSES AND SEDGES
plants, such as Rheum, Darmera, and Rodgersia, to plant. Heat- and drought-tolerant plants may have silver, A mix of evergreen or deciduous plants with
thrive. Most shade lovers tolerate some full sun during heat-reflective leaves (Artemisia), or narrow gray ones
the day, but leaves may scorch with too much exposure. (lavender), which minimize the exposed surface area. grassy leaves. They can be clump-forming or
spreading, and range in height from a few
inches to 6–10 ft.
Plants for different soils SHRUBS
It is easier to match your plants to your soil fast in summer. Soil acidity is important if you Evergreen or deciduous plants with a
than to try to change the character of your want to grow ericaceous (acid-loving) plants permanent, multistemmed woody
land. Heavy clay can be cold and wet, but such as Pieris, Camellia, or Rhododendron. Be framework from 1–12 ft (30 cm–4 m) tall.
it is fertile and productive once plants are aware that labels don’t always state whether
TREES
established. Sandy soils can be worked plants need acid soil conditions. (For more
Large evergreen and deciduous plants, which
year-round at almost any time but will dry out information on soil types, see p.102.) usually have a single trunk and are capable of
reaching great heights. Trees need careful
positioning due to their longevity and size.

CLIMBERS
Deciduous and evergreen climbing plants
useful for their foliage and flowers. Most need
wires or trellises to cling to walls or fences,
and can grow to a height of several feet.

AQUATICS
Plants that grow in wet ground or in water
Clay soil Sandy dry soil Alkaline soil Acid soil fall into three groups: those with leaves held
Plants such as Berberis If soil is too wet, bulbs, Soil with a pH value over Azaleas are ericaceous above the water, those that lie on the surface,
that like fertile, moist such as alliums, may rot. 7 is considered alkaline— plants that require acid and those that stay submerged (see p.98).
conditions grow well Free-draining sandy soils if it is also fairly fertile, soil with a pH value
on heavy clay soil. suit them best. roses will love it. below 6.5.
Growth habits Mirroring nature
Understanding a plant’s habit helps you to plants of unexpected vigor. Height and If you bring together plants from different
place it in the garden. It also ensures you get spread are usually marked on the plant parts of the world but from a similar habitat,
the planting density right, so you achieve a label, but expect some variation due to it is possible to create a planting design that is
balanced border that isn’t overwhelmed by different growing conditions. both botanically and aesthetically pleasing.
Seeing the plants in situ in their natural
Mat-forming Clump-forming
These plants spread Over a few years, plants environment will inspire you—and give you
by sending out shoots such as the non-invasive a feel for the conditions they require.
which then put down grass Pennisetum
roots. Mentha requienii alopecuroides form
(Corsican mint) will a good-sized clump
steadily creep over without threatening to
gravel and paving. swamp their neighbors.

Upright Climbers
As they often have Climbers, including
little sideways spread, most clematis, take up
upright plants like little horizontal space
Verbascum can be as they want to grow
planted quite densely. up rather than out.
They also provide Train them through
useful vertical accents shrubs and to clothe
in the garden. vertical structures. Coastal survivors
A plant’s ability to cope with gale-force winds and salty
spray will govern your choice for a seaside garden.
Luckily, there are some beautiful plants that are
Fast-growing Slow-growing perfectly adapted.
Plants such as Many slow-growers will
Lavatera need space eventually become big,
when planted to but it can take years.
allow for rapid Buxus sempervirens
spread. Plant labels ‘Suffruticosa’ has a
give the size after 10 slow growth rate
years, but check with that makes it ideal for
other sources for low hedging.
growth rates.

Plants in containers
There is no reason why a container garden matching of your plants. However, growing
can’t be as well planted as a border. It is an plants in pots can affect their growth rates
intimate and very flexible form of gardening and restrict their size, since compost,
Woodland effects
that allows an almost continual mixing and water, and nutrients are limited. You don’t need to be a botanical purist to create a
woodland garden. You can combine plants from
different countries, so long as they all enjoy cool dry
shade in summer.

◁ Big bonus △ Tight squeeze

A wide range of plants The restricted size and
will grow successfully in volume of compost in
large containers since small pots limits your
they can accommodate plant choices. You must Alpine inspiration
more roots, water, and water and feed plants A rock garden is designed to emulate the free-draining
nutrients than small, regularly when grown dry conditions of an alpine meadow. This image of the
narrow pots. in these conditions. real thing shows the effects you can aim for.
84/85 How to design
DESIGNING WITH PLANTS

Selecting plants
At this stage of the design process you should be getting a clearer idea of the look you want to create in
your yard, and thinking about the plants you’ll need. Designers often talk about using a “palette” of plants,
as if they were paints, and, in many ways, creating a beautiful garden is like painting—except that you are
visualizing three dimensions, and your materials, being living, growing things, aren’t static. Use the ideas
outlined here to help you draw up an inspired garden design.

Choosing a planting palette Layers of interest

Focusing your ideas at an early stage in the When space is limited, try to select plants
design process narrows your choices and that have a long season of interest. As well
helps to guide you toward choosing the as those that flower over a long period,
right plants. It also minimizes expensive there are also many shrubs and perennials
mistakes. Sourcing plants is much easier with colorful fall foliage, structural winter
when you have a specific theme, perhaps a stems, and spring buds. Precious few plants
favorite color, or style in mind. A cottage will fulfill all your demands, but look for
garden, for example, will give you the scope those that check the most boxes.
to mix and match a wide range of plants in an
informal setting. Something more modern,
on the other hand, will demand that you
use a limited number of plants in a more
organized way. Designing a low-maintenance
garden filled with evergreens will, again,
focus your choice (see pp.130–233 for
garden styles).

△ Tropical collection
A flamboyant display of annuals with △ Structure and color
hardy and tender perennials is high- The most useful plants here (peonies) work on several
maintenance, but the results are levels, providing structure and color. In spring, their red
exciting and worth the effort. shoots are followed by lush green foliage, then flowers.

◁ Easy-care plan
The established hardy shrubs and
perennials in this formal planting
require minimal maintenance. Their
structure extends the seasonal appeal
right through late fall and into winter.

Functional planting
Certain garden features design themselves △ Foliage and form
by default. For example, an exposed garden A closer look at a peony reveals how its flowers and
foliage combine to make it stand out as an individual.
will need a windbreak, while an overlooked Peonies often provide vibrant fall leaf color too.
plot must have screening for privacy. Other
design considerations might include fragrance
by the front door, or a tree by the patio to
provide shade on a hot sunny day. The design
of such plans is guided by their specific use,
and this may limit your choice of suitable
plants. The list below details the different
design functions plants can fulfill, some of
which may be pertinent to your plot.
1 Provide shelter 5 Perfume the garden
Sheltered seating area △ Flower in focus
2 Create a boundary 6 Screen neighbors Hedges do pretty much the same job as a fence or wall, Close up you can appreciate the folded and crushed petals
3 Produce food to eat 7 Hide an ugly view but they have the edge when it comes to absorbing of this peony’s double blooms. With other plants, such as
4 Offer shade 8 Provide a wildlife habitat sound and wind. They also create a much softer effect. passion flowers, the detail is in the intricate stamens.
Plant types and their design uses
There is, without doubt, a plant for virtually Midrange plants Structural plants
every situation, be it a tree, shrub, perennial, These make up the Plants can be structural
majority of the plants on two levels. They can
bedding plant, or bulb. When you’re working in a garden and include define the limits and
out a planting plan, consider how best to use perennials and small framework of a garden,
each plant, and ask yourself if it will create shrubs. The substance of or the term can describe
most plantings, they fill the plant itself, for
the look you are after, as well as how it will the gaps between bigger, example, if it has large
work next to other plants in the border. more structural elements. paddle-shaped leaves.

Focal plants Ground cover Seasonal interest

Like ornaments, these People tend to think of The changing seasons
are visual treats for the ground cover plants as make gardening a real
garden. It could be their being workman-like. But pleasure. Choosing
distinctive color, leaf there’s no reason why plants that provide an
shape, or stature that they can’t do a great job ever-changing display
makes them stand out of being ornamental prolongs a garden’s
from other plants in while smothering interest, changing its
the border. weeds as well. character as time passes.
86/87 How to design
DESIGNING WITH PLANTS

Using structural plants

Structural plants are the backbone of a garden, forming the framework and helping to anchor other
plants within a defined space. A beech hedge encircling a garden works in this way, as does a low box
hedge around a border. By their sheer physical presence, individual structural plants —such as a Gunnera
or Cordyline—can give focus to a planting plan. Identifying key plants and deciding where to position them
is the first step toward organizing a planting design for any garden.

Creating a framework
Hedging is ideal for defining the boundaries
of a large- or medium-sized garden. It also
provides shelter and increases privacy. Strike
a balance between evergreen and deciduous
species: evergreens are effective year-round
screens, but because of the low winter sun
they can cast a dense gloomy shade, while
deciduous hedges allow in some light for most
of the year, and can offer seasonal color, too.
Use structural plants within the garden to
frame (or block out) views and to lead your △ Hedges for definition
eye around the design. Shrubs in a border, Hedging plants, both small and large scale
(in this instance, beech), can be used to
perhaps forming a low hedge, provide a define the internal structure of a garden.
setting for midrange plants, and repeating
planting helps to create visual reference ▷ Structure in a border
Here, green and purple maples (Acer)
points. When planting trees, consider their frame a stone statue, while the sculptural
eventual size and the shade they will cast. Gunnera at the back forms a focal point.

Temporary structure
While the main framework of a garden should
be permanent, much of the planting within it
is seasonal, emerging in spring and dying down
in winter. Some perennials provide vital
structure for all but a few weeks in spring,
when, as is the case with many handsome
grasses, their stems are cut to make way for
new growth. Large, shapely foliage plants, such
as Miscanthus, act as an anchor for smaller
species, or contrast with leafy flowering
shrubs like Deutzia. Airy plantings also benefit
from the occasional strong shape as a visual
counterbalance to their wispy forms.

△ Structural accents ▷ Reconstructing nature

Clumps of bold foliage (here cannas) in a busy planting Using plants in broad interlocking swathes prevents
design act as a foil for slim-stemmed flowers and an overly fussy effect and the resulting planting,
provide structural accents in a border. although strongly structured, looks natural.
Year-round interest ▷ Color and form
If you mix deciduous and
While evergreens may seem the obvious evergreen species, the
choice for year-round interest, visually they garden in winter can be
both structurally interesting
can be leaden and static. Deciduous trees and surprisingly colorful.
and shrubs, on the other hand, may perform
for several seasons: new foliage in spring, ▽ Spring offering
followed, perhaps, by flowers, and then Trees form an important
element of the spring
berries in late summer, and vibrant leaf landscape, some offering
color in fall. In addition, trees often have a blossom, others vibrant
beautiful winter silhouette. Many species green new growth.
of Sorbus offer these benefits, and are the
ideal four-season trees for a small garden. ▽▽ Formal topiary
Formal planting is the
A winter garden may not offer the ultimate in structural
obvious charms of summer, but there can design. This row of clipped
still be sufficient interest to draw your eye evergreen trees is balanced
and restful, and the effect
into the garden—perhaps even enticing you can be enjoyed during all
to pull on a coat and venture outside. four seasons.
88/89 How to design
DESIGNING WITH PLANTS

Using midrange plants

Midrange plants belong to a broad group that includes bulbs, some small shrubs (often called subshrubs),
grasses, and most herbaceous perennials. Their great range of shapes, colors, and textures gives you huge
scope for creativity, and you’ll find plenty to define your chosen garden style. They are also invaluable as gap
fillers between structural specimens, and since many flower and reach their full height in their first season or
two, you won’t have to wait long to enjoy the full effect.

Shape and texture ◁ Multilayered texture

This sloping site features layers of beautiful
Some of the best midrange plants rely on foliage textures and colors, including
their shape and texture for interest more pompon alliums and feathery fennel.
than their flowers. Those with strong leaf
shapes, such as Acanthus, Hosta, Ligularia, ▽ Spiky foliage
The structural leaves of crocosmias give
and Rodgersia, can be grouped together for season-long interest; the late summer
bold shapely plantings; or they can be used flowers can almost be seen as a bonus.
to separate plants with frothy flowers or
foliage. Using contrasting shapes and
textures throughout a planting design
creates visual excitement, with no shortage
of interest. Imagine the fine leaves of fennel
(Foeniculum vulgare) against the large
sculptural foliage of the globe artichoke
(Cynara cardunculus Scolymus Group), or the
delicate but busy fizz of gypsophila against
bold round Bergenia foliage. Grouping plants
with similar soft textures creates a different,
much gentler, effect: try fennel with
Anemanthele lessoniana, or Molinia caerulea
subsp. arundinacea ‘Windspiel’ with Aruncus
dioicus ‘Kneiffii’ or Thalictrum delavayi.

Shrubby structure ◁ Staying power

Once its small trumpet-like flowers fade
Many small shrubs are useful additions to in late summer, the silvery evergreen
a herbaceous planting because they add subshrub Convolvulus cneorum
remains as a foil for other perennials.
a degree of permanence and a change of
character. Plant short shrubby evergreens
◁◁ Good mixers
at the front of a border to act as a foil to the Low subshrubs, such as Helianthemum,
procession of perennials that come and go as provide useful low level structure and
the seasons progress. Good front-line plants mix well with perennials, but they also
make a reliable display on their own.
include Teucrium chamaedrys, Lotus hirsutus,
Hebe pinguifolia, and Iberis sempervirens.
▽ Foreground interest
Block plantings of low evergreen hebes
provide a weighty foreground that
contrasts well with the lighter, airy
grasses planted behind.
Flower and leaf color
Perhaps the most exciting aspect of gardening
is the chance to play with color. If you include
herbaceous perennials, the range of leaves
and flowers can provide you with almost
any tone or shade for your planting palette.
When designing a garden plan, consider the
effect each plant has on its neighbor and
decide if you want to use complementary
or contrasting colors (see pp.46–47).
In general terms, a mix of colors generates
an exuberant, slightly wild feel to a planting.
Single-color-themed borders look more
sophisticated and have a cohesion that is
satisfying to the eye. The restricted choice
of plants also makes designing that much
easier. Don’t forget that just a hint of
a matching shade in a flower or its foliage
can be enough to link two plants.
Within a bigger border, color combinations
using two or three plants are effective.
These can be timed for seasonal display,
say, yellow wallflowers with the near-black
tulip, ‘Queen of Night’; or for something
less transient, pale yellow Anthemis tinctoria
‘E.C. Buxton’, fronted by purple-leaved
Heuchera ‘Plum Pudding’, surrounded by
the leaves of Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’.

▷ Early summer border

A jumble of flower colors and textured foliage injects
this border with a huge amount of energy. Adding some
summer bedding will add to the overall excitement.

▽ Focus on foliage
While still providing a perfect backdrop for other plants
in the border, the large ribbed leaves of this luscious
blue-green hosta make it a star in its own right.
Shady refuge
Planting choices in this compact courtyard garden are
informed by the dappled shade of silver birch trees.
Shade-loving perennials, such as aquilegias, Alchemilla
mollis, and geraniums, vie for attention among leafy
ferns and hostas, while the eye is drawn to patches
of blue irises and orange geums in the sunnier spots.
designer Jo Thompson
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DESIGNING WITH PLANTS

Using ground cover

Ground cover plants are used primarily to swamp weeds by creating a densely knitted blanket of leaves,
stems, and flowers that exclude light and use up all available moisture. The best examples are also
decorative features in their own right, offering a tapestry of color, texture, and form, and providing a foil
for other plants. Ground cover does not have to be restricted to very low-growing plants, and can include
a variety of shapes and sizes, as long as they form a smothering canopy.

Dry sunny sites

Free-draining soils are “hungry”; you can
feed them with organic matter but it usually
breaks down quickly and its effect is short-
lived, so it is best to choose plants suited to
the conditions rather than to try to change
the soil. Flowering ground cover plants that
thrive on sunny sites include Helianthemum,
dwarf Genista, and low growing shrubby
potentillas, such as Potentilla fruticosa ‘Dart’s
Golddigger’. For leafy ground cover, try
plants with gray leaves, such as Hebe
pinguifolia, Santolina chamaecyparissus, and
sage (Salvia officinalis). Several plants suited
to hot dry conditions are also aromatic and
include lavender and thyme. These conditions
are the natural habitat of many bulbs, too.
Small irises, such as Iris reticulata, and smaller
species tulips, such as Tulipa kaufmanniana
and T. linifolia Batalinii Group, can be dotted
among the ground cover to add extra color.

▷ Tough plants for tough sites

This gravel border features mostly
Mediterranean-style ground cover plants,
including thyme, and catmint (Nepeta).

▽ Sun protection
Perfect for a hot spot, the silvery leaves
of Stachys byzantina reflect the heat of the
sun and prevent the plant from drying out.
Cool shady sites
Ground shaded by a leafy tree canopy is organic matter to the soil also helps to When shaded by buildings, the soil is usually
often extremely dry throughout the summer retain moisture. For dense spreading cover, slightly damper, making it easier to establish
and provides the biggest challenge for both try Aegopodium podagraria ‘Variegatum’ ground cover plants. Shade-loving Bergenia,
the plants and the designer. Reducing a tree’s (variegated ground elder), Asperula odorata, Epimedium, Helleborus orientalis, hostas, and
crown allows more light and moisture Cornus canadensis, Geranium macrorrhizum, many ferns, especially the dry-tolerant
through to the plants below, and adding Pachysandra terminalis, or Hedera (ivy) species. Dryopteris species, all produce a lovely effect.
▷ Under a light canopy
Semi-shaded conditions suit a wide range
of leafy ground cover plants, including
Asarum, Carex, and Rodgersia. This mix
of green shades has a naturalistic quality.

◁ Dense shade
Many colorful hardy
geraniums are tough
enough to cope with
the difficult conditions
under a tree canopy.

▽ Twice the value

Plants with long-lasting
foliage make good
ground cover; if, like
these astilbes, they
also offer flowers, their
value is doubled.

Easy-care plants ▷ Carpet of color

Low-growing Lysimachia and Ajuga
In large gardens, where you can give them reptans suppress weeds while also
the space they need, vigorous spreading providing a colorful foil for larger plants.
plants, such as Hedera helix, Lonicera
pileata, Trachystemon orientalis, and Vinca ▽ Mat-forming ground cover
major, make ideal low-maintenance Vinca minor puts down roots from
spreading shoots to form a dense mat.
ground cover. In smaller gardens, Its small leaves contrast well with those
however, giving over large areas to a of the Bergenia.
single species is not always appropriate or
practical; it can also be a waste of a good
planting opportunity. Where space is
limited, it is far better to use a mix of leafy
plants, such as Astilbe, Astrantia, Bergenia,
and Geranium endressii, planted close
together. You will achieve the same effect,
but it will be more ornamental and can be
achieved with very little effort.
94/95 How to design
DESIGNING WITH PLANTS

Using focal plants

Focal plants work on several levels: they can entice you into a garden, distract you from ugly views beyond
the boundary, or provide an eye-catching feature within a border. Most focal plants are evergreen or have
strong shapes or colors, and offer a long season of interest, but don’t dismiss those that perform for only a
few weeks each year. Allow them their brief, glorious time in the limelight, and plan the rest of the garden
around the show. Remember that focal and feature plants are the same thing.

Visual trickery ◁ Handle carefully

Take care that a plant does not overwhelm
In much the same way as you would use a the garden by grabbing all the attention
statue or an attractive container, you can and becoming an unplanned focal plant.
position focal plants to lead the viewer’s eye
to a particular area of the garden. Positioned ▽ Scene stealer
Pampas grasses have considerable
strategically, they can also distract attention stature, even when they are not in flower.
from unsightly objects or views. Their Their late summer display makes them
the natural focus of attention.
presence not only makes someone shift their
gaze, but can entice them to take a stroll
around the yard too. When focal plants are
repeated throughout a long border they act
like visual stepping stones, helping to carry
the eye along its length. They also hold the
planting together, giving it an essential
cohesion. Finally, using a clever trick of
perspective, when planted in the foreground,
focal plants make the garden behind seem
like a separate area waiting to be explored.

Striking shapes
Many plants have naturally architectural
or sculptural shapes: Acer palmatum var.
dissectum, Cornus alternifolia, Phormium, and
Yucca all make great focal plants. Many
more, however, can be enticed over time
with pruning and training to take on striking
forms. This can be through traditional
topiary, using slow-growing evergreens
such as box, yew, Ilex crenata, or Ligustrum
delavayanum. (Avoid fast-growing plants
such as Lonicera nitida, which needs
clipping several times over the summer
to stop it losing its shape.) In addition,
the adventurous gardener may like to
experiment with other creative pruning
techniques. By trimming off the lower
branches of shrubs and trees you can make
standards that produce lollipop shapes, or
you can manipulate the branches to form
tiers or cascading stems. Carpinus betulus,
Cotoneaster frigidus, Thuja plicata, and
Viburnum plicatum f. tomentosum ‘Mariesii’
are just four that respond well to this type
△ Worth the wait of pruning. When trained, the skeletal
A single plant’s display (here a Yucca) can
be the raison d’être and seasonal climax winter outlines of deciduous plants can be
of a whole section of a garden. as interesting as their leafy summer profiles.
Using color ▽ Come closer
The vibrant pink, pea-like flowers of Cercis siliquastrum
Very few plants can offer season-long color, appear before the leaves in early spring. The tree’s form
but you can still achieve some great effects provides a focus at other times of the year.
with even just a short burst of activity from
foliage or flowers. The following are all good
candidates for focal plants: the fall foliage of
Japanese acers, azaleas, Fothergilla, and larch;
the flowers of Hamamelis, Laburnum, and
Viburnum plicatum f. tomentosum ‘Mariesii’;
and the winter stems of many of the birches,
dogwoods, and willows.
Plants that provide dramatic color,
however, need careful handling. Remember
that bright reds or yellows planted at the
furthermost corners of the garden have
a foreshortening effect. On the other hand,
using paler colors at the end of the garden
visually lengthens your plot (see p.48).

▷ Color care
Acers are real scene stealers when their foliage fires
up in fall. Position them carefully among more subdued
colors so that they can really shine out.

▷▷ Double duty
Hydrangea flowers are great value: colorful when fresh
in summer, ethereally beautiful when faded in fall, and
stunning in winter with a dusting of frost.

△ In the limelight
Large scale centerpieces, these birch
trees are made all the more arresting
with dramatic winter sunlight.

◁ Have fun with topiary

Extravagance and humor are two
ingredients that turn a feature into
a great focal point. Here, yew is being
trained through a giant topiary frame.
96/97 How to design
DESIGNING WITH PLANTS

Seasonal planting
Designing a garden that offers a continuing series of delights throughout the year is both challenging and
highly rewarding. Anticipating the emergence of new shoots, flowers, and foliage in spring brings a huge
amount of pleasure, which is then matched by the abundance of the summer, followed by warming fall colors
and the stark beauty of winter. With careful planning, you can use plants to decorate your garden 365 days a
year with their color, scent, shape, and form.

Spring awakening
Spring brings welcome color and energy subtle effect, choose some of the softer
after the gloom of winter. Nature designed colored spring-flowering shrubs and smaller
early flowerers for high impact, with brilliant plants, such as Epimedium, Fritillaria, Helleborus,
displays from Amelanchier, cherries, magnolias, and Primula. And nearly all spring bulbs have a
rhododendrons, and Viburnum. Bulbs are also white selection to temper a colorful display.
keen to impress: flowers of blue (anemone, However, it is often best to give into the
hyacinth, Muscari), yellow (daffodils, tulips), vivid nature of the season and simply enjoy
purple (crocus), and red (tulips) all add to the the exuberance—just remember to plant
season’s vibrant spirit. If you prefer a more your bulbs in the fall or you’ll miss the show.
▷ Woodland setting
Plants and bulbs that thrive beneath trees
make use of available light and moisture
by flowering before the leaves appear.

▷▷ Natural drifts of bulbs

Yellow daffodils and pink magnolia
capture the freshness of spring. For
naturalistic drifts, throw handfuls
of bulbs across the ground and plant
them where they land.

Summer profusion
In summer, the emergence of bees and
other pollinating insects coincides with the
majority of plants coming into flower. This
natural abundance offers a huge choice of
colors, heights, and shapes, which makes
designing for a specific effect relatively easy.
Check flowering times and choose a wide
range of plants to prolong the display
right through the summer months. Select
perennials with beautiful foliage, so that
when they have finished flowering they still
contribute to the overall luxuriant effect, and
set out each type of plant in bold groups of
at least three for the greatest impact. Finally,
to add to the richness, dot summer-
flowering bulbs, such as Allium, Gladiolus,
lilies, and Triteleia, throughout the border.
Keep the display fresh by removing spent
flowers and brown or damaged leaves.

◁ Fiery mix
The variety of plants available in
summer makes a color theme a much
easier option—here a “hot border” of
sizzling hues creates a unified display.
Fall color One garden, four seasons
In sheltered gardens, many half-hardy and range of shrubs with fiery fall leaves. By underplanting a wide range of shrubs and
tender plants, such as dahlias and Canna, Several summer-flowering perennials, perennials with naturalized spring bulbs you
will continue to flower until the first frosts. including some peonies and hostas, provide can achieve year-round interest without the
Hardy perennials, such as asters, Aconitum, a brief season of fall leaf color, but the main need for bedding plants. The unsung heroes
and Actaea (syn. Cimicifuga), flower very late, stars are the trees and shrubs, such as Acer, of winter are deciduous trees—without the
too, and together with forms of Fuchsia Cornus, Prunus, Rhus, and some Berberis, distraction of foliage you can better appreciate
magellanica, make good companions for a Cotoneaster, and Viburnum. their attractive bark and shapely forms.
◁ Seasonal transition
The overlap between fading perennials
and the onset of luminescent fall foliage
colors is a delightful twilight period in
the gardening year.

▽ Borrowed views
This border has been designed as a
stage set for the magnificent beech
wood behind, but as the fiery fall colors
of Cotinus, Prunus, and grasses ignite,
all eyes are on the foreground.

Spring: fresh and vibrant

Summer: lush and leafy

Winter interest
There is no shortage of plants to provide
color and interest during the colder
months. Winter-flowering honeysuckles,
Fothergilla, Hamamelis, Mahonia,
Sarcococca, and Viburnum offer flowers
and scent, and the berries or catkins of
Fall: fiery colors
Corylus, Cotoneaster, Crataegus, Garrya,
and Sorbus add color and texture.
Evergreens and their variegated forms
deliver winter foliage, while the bare
bones of dormant perennials, such as
Rudbeckia and Sedum, and the stems of
grasses, such as Miscanthus sinensis, all
add to the beauty of the winter garden.
Trees also make stunning contributions to
a wintry scene: birches with their stark
white trunks; the twisted silhouette of
Eyes down
Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’; and the An underplanting of snowdrops brings a glimmer of light
flowers of Prunus x subhirtella ‘Autumnalis’. to the dark base of shrubs, like this Cornus (dogwood). Winter: stripped to the bare bones
98/99 How to design
DESIGNING WITH PLANTS

Planting water features

Water fascinates and captivates like no other garden Placing a pond
feature. Its movement, reflections, and sound bring an Check first that the site does
not carry main sewers, drains,
appealing mix of new sensations to a garden. Water or utility pipes. Choose a
sunny position with some
also offers the chance to grow a different range of shade during the day, away
from overhanging trees.
plants that can attract insects and other wildlife to
the garden, whether you are planting up a natural
Trees are far enough
pond, or complementing a modern installation. away to prevent
pollution from leaves

The pond is the focus

Positioning your feature of the overall design

For a natural look, small features like spouting figures and heads or
an overflowing urn can be placed among the planting in borders. Service pipe is a good
Ponds do best where there is good light, away from trees and falling distance from pond
leaves, which will rot and pollute the water. Also place them away
from service pipes, such as electricity cables. All features should be The view from the
house allows you to
viewed as an integral part of the design and placed where any filters enjoy the feature
and pumps can be hidden by plants, rocks, or decking. Child safety
is also a prime consideration.

Choosing plants
Plan your waterside plantings exactly as you would your garden surface of the water—and your choice is governed by the size and
border, taking height, color, and seasonal interest into account. depth of your pool. Choose a mixture from the four main groups of
Plants carry a label that show their preferred water depth—the water plants: oxygenators to keep the water clear; aquatic plants that
distance from the crown of the plant (or top of their pot) to the grow in the water; and marginals and bog plants to soften the edges.

Bog plants Marginal plants Aquatic plants Oxygenators

These plants thrive in a moist or wet Growing in a few centimeters of These deep-water plants root on An essential element in a pond,
soil. There is a wide range available, water at the margins, these plants the bottom of the pond, 20 in oxygenators provide oxygen and absorb
which includes some of the most soften the line between water and (50 cm) or more beneath the water. the nutrients otherwise used by algae.
colorful waterside plants, such as land. As well as colorful or interesting There are relatively few plants in Some, like Ranunculus aquatilis, flower
several irises, primulas, Lythrum, flowers (Saururus, Orontium), this group, but it does include water above the water surface.
and evergreen Lysimachia. many have dramatic foliage lilies, which grow in water 20 in
(Sagittaria, Pontederia). (50 cm) to 48 in (1.2 m) deep.

To reduce algal bloom,

plant marginals in Sink aquatic plants in their ▽ Planning ahead
a low-nutrient compost baskets to the correct depth, Making planting ledges and boggy
as marked on their labels ground part of the initial design of
a pond, allows you to grow plants
with different depth requirements.

marginal plant depth

aquatic plant depth

Modern water features Small pools
In a contemporary setting, water is often used for its If space is limited, a small fountain, bubbling
reflective properties and movement, rather than as millstone, or half-barrel or trough filled with
a place to grow plants. However, several water plants, water and aquatic plants can give great
including species of Juncus, Carex, Cyperus, and Equisetum pleasure. Place your feature by a seat or
complement a modern, architectural style. A clean and close to the house where it will be visible
unfussy look is important, so limit the variety of plants from a window. If you cannot plant into the
and use those with strong shapes for the best effect. feature itself, position it among plants (Hosta,
Evergreens work particularly well in a modern setting. Astilbe, Primula, Myosotis, Filipendula, and Iris)
that often surround a pond or pool.

△ Dramatic statement
The primitive-looking Equisetum
hyemale (horsetail) is invasive on
land, but contained in a pond planter,
its stiff, upright shape is very useful
to the modern designer.

◁ Symmetrical planting
The round leaves of water lilies
emphasize the squareness of this
formal pool, while the dramatic
foliage of Zantedeschia adds some
exuberance and links the pool with
the surrounding planting.

Wildlife ponds
The combination of water and a wide variety to frogs, toads, and newts. If there is
of aquatic plants creates an attractive habitat room, introduce a small waterfall to create
for frogs, dragonflies, and aquatic insects, as the splash and moisture ideal for growing
well as offering cover for fish. Native plants ferns and mosses at the pond edge. Also, Mini oasis
When planting a miniature pool, take care to avoid
will attract local insects, but any exotic, provide both deep and shallow water for vigorous plants and rely on subjects like Nymphaea
non-invasive water plants will be beneficial diverse planting and a more natural look. tetragona, a small, compact water lily.

OTHER PLANTS TO CONSIDER

MODERN WATER FEATURES
Cyperus alternifolius
Equisetum scirpoides
Isolepis cernua
Juncus patens ‘Carman’s Gray’
Schoenoplectus lacustris subsp.
tabernaemontani ‘Albescens’

WILDLIFE WATER FEATURES

Butomus umbellatus
Caltha palustris
Iris pseudacorus
Myosotis scorpioides
Ranunculus flammula

SMALL WATER FEATURES

Hydrocotyle americana
Juncus effusus f. spiralis
Natural habitat Orontium aquaticum
Even a small pond will attract a surprising amount of wildlife, and is Primula vialii
a useful way of increasing children’s interest in nature and the garden.
Assessing your garden

If your plot isn’t a blank canvas, take the time to look carefully at what is already in place
before you begin work on a redesign. If you have just moved into a property, it is worth waiting to
see what plants emerge and how the garden looks at different times of the year. When planning
a makeover of an old garden, cost may be a factor, and you may want to retain and incorporate
favorite features.
Get to know your garden soil, too, and notice how much sunshine and rainfall the plot receives.
This will tell you what plants will thrive in your particular growing conditions, and help you to avoid
costly mistakes. Improving drainage by digging in grit, or adding plenty of compost to poor soil, will
also broaden your choice of suitable plants.
The drawbacks of a sloping garden can be turned to an advantage
by the use of terraces, steps, raised platforms, or suspended decking.
Introducing these elements can revitalize a tired garden, giving it a new
lease of life. The same is true of an area that stays constantly damp:
transform it into a bog garden or pool and enjoy the pleasures of a wide
variety of moisture-loving plants and the ensuing wildlife they attract.
Privacy is important, but it is wise to consider your neighbors’ needs
before making any major changes to a boundary. A tall, vigorous
conifer hedge may shield you from view, but does it also cast a long
Assess the soil and feed with
shadow over their patio for most of the day? Legal obligations may compost if necessary.

come into play, too, so check first

before you finalize your design or
begin construction around a
shared boundary.
Perhaps the most important piece
of advice is to take your time before
launching into a garden redesign
and new landscaping. And if bare
or ugly patches are inevitable while
work is carried out, remember that
strategically placed containers make
a quick and effective screen. Choosing the right plants for your site is an important first step.
102/103 How to design
ASSESSING YOUR GARDEN

Assessing your soil Checking the aspect

The direction your garden faces has a

and aspect
marked effect on how much sun it receives
and how exposed it is to wind. To work out
your garden’s aspect, stand with your back
Find out as much as you can about your site before you plan to the house and use a compass to check
the direction you are facing.
a garden. If you ignore the local environment and specific soil Typically, south- and west-facing plots are
and drainage conditions, you could waste money on unsuitable warm and sunny while north- and east-
plants, or discover that your planned seating area is in a wind facing gardens are cooler and shadier
(right). Filtering the wind on an exposed site
tunnel, or that the lawn turns into a lake in winter. reduces wind-chill, and limits damage to
structures and plants. As altitude and
Identifying and improving soil distance from the sea increase, temperature
Garden soils range from sticky clays to and exposure can be adversely affected,
free-draining sands. Clay soil is prone to whereas urban areas produce and hold
waterlogging in winter and dries hard in heat, keeping gardens artificially warm.
summer, while sandy soil warms up early in
spring, but is a challenge to keep moist in
summer. Clays can be very productive and
rich in nutrients if manure and grit are dug in,
but sands are typically poor and, without Testing clay soil Testing sandy soil
As clay content increases, This soil crumbles under
adding manure or garden compost mulches, you can form it into a ball light pressure, won’t form
won’t retain moisture or nutrients. The ideal or sausage, then a ring. a ball, and feels gritty.
“loam” soil contains a mix of clay and sand
plus organic matter. Loams are dark and
fertile because of the organic content, form
a crumb-like structure when forked over,
and have good moisture retention. Test your
soil (above right) before designing planting
areas; loams when rolled hold together to
form a ball, but crumble under pressure. Windy sites
Exposure can restrict your choice of plants as well
as your enjoyment of the garden. Provide shelter
with deciduous hedging, which will help reduce
wind speeds without creating turbulence, or use
other permeable windbreaks (see also p.61).

△ Grit improves drainage

Large quantities of coarse grit worked into the top layer
of soil (to fork depth) improves the drainage of heavy clay,
but drains may also be necessary on waterlogged soils.

◁ Well-rotted manure benefits all soils

Manure causes fine clay particles to clump together,
improving soil structure and drainage. It also helps sandy
soil retain water and nutrients, but use it only as a mulch.

Testing acidity
The soil pH is a measure of acidity and alkalinity—7 is
neutral, below 7 is acid, above 7 is alkaline. Acid soils suit
ericaceous plants while many Mediterranean herbs,
shrubs, and alpines will grow happily in alkaline, lime-rich
conditions. You can pick up clues about your soil by
looking around the neighborhood to see what plants are
thriving. Soil type can also vary around a garden due to Frost pockets
Determining your soil type On sloping sites, cold air rolls down to the lowest point
local anomalies, so carry out several pH tests using an Taking samples from around the garden, and pools there if its path is blocked. Less hardy
electronic meter or simple chemical testing kit (right). use a test kit to check acidity/alkalinity. plants here can suffer frost damage.
MORNING MIDDAY EVENING

South-facing South-facing South-facing

garden garden garden
Gentle sunshine In the height of Heat radiated from
across the garden summer, walls walls keeps the patio
from the east first reflect the sun’s warm into the night.
thing creates heat and the whole Most areas of the
pleasant conditions garden is exposed garden are ideal for
for summer to the sun, so you frost-tender plants
breakfasts on a and your plants since the garden is
patio on the west will bake without warm all day.
side of the house. additional shade.
House House House

North-facing North-facing North-facing

garden garden garden
Morning sun from the The area next to the Gentle light from the
east soon disappears house is completely west offers an ideal
behind the house. shaded, but the top aspect for woodland
Plant camellias, and end of a longer plantings. A patio on
other plants sensitive garden could be the east side of the
to morning sun after in full sun—perfect garden will capture
frost, on the shady for a seating area evening sunlight
east side. and some sun- in summer.
loving plants.
House House House

East-facing garden East-facing East-facing

Enjoy breakfast on a garden garden
patio by the house, Sun filters across The area by the
but avoid planting the garden from the house is shady,
wall shrubs here south but disappears and can feel chilly
that are sensitive to behind the house in because walls
morning sun after the afternoon. Cool haven’t absorbed
frost. Cold east after midday, this is heat during the day;
winds can scorch a good aspect for make a patio at the
tender foliage. a shady sun room far end of the garden
or porch. for evening sun.
House House House

West-facing West-facing West-facing

garden garden garden
The area near the Most of the garden A dining area by the
house is shaded for is in sun at midday, house allows people
most of the morning especially in summer. to bask in late
and a cool retreat in Tender wall shrubs evening sun, but
hot weather, but for thrive on the house you may need some
early sun, design a and north and west shade. Walls absorb
seating area at the boundaries. A patio to sufficient heat to
end of the garden. the south offers shade. keep the area warm
on summer nights.
House House House
104/105 How to design
ASSESSING YOUR GARDEN

Managing slopes and drainage

Predicting how water moves around, and how it can be directed out of harm’s way, is the basis of drainage
design. As a general rule, all man-made surfaces should be on an incline and water must flow away from
buildings. In most cases, the water runs off hard surfaces, such as terraces or steps, into the soil where it
is absorbed. However, sites on hills or with heavy, compacted soil can present drainage problems, and you
may need to seek a specialist’s help to avoid waterlogged conditions or flooding.

Drainage issues
All waterproof surfaces (roofs and paved or to run into gutters or, if in small underground pipe, open ditch, or stream.
areas) prevent water from draining naturally, quantities, directly on to planting beds. Particular attention needs to be paid to
and need special attention; the water must The type of soil in a garden will affect water moving over bare soil or sparsely
be channeled to flow into municipal drains, drainage, with heavy soils (clays and silts) vegetated surfaces where it will cause gullies
causing more problems than free-draining and erosion. However, if the landscape is
Rainwater and gray types (sands, gravels, and sandy loams). undulating or contained, water will gather
water recycling and
capture On a steep site, water will flow quickly, in the dips and in larger wet areas, such as
Terrace on a slight seeking a low point and, eventually, an bogs or ponds, and will need an overflow.
incline away from
the house If you have a difficult site, determine
Surface water the upper level of the groundwater (water
House Each tread angled
slightly downhill flows down table) as it may affect where you position
to shed water sloping garden
your drains or dry well.

Groundwater and
natural drainage
Pond or stream at
the lowest point
Trench filled with collects water
free-draining stone

Bog plants

Intercepter drain captures surface

and high-level groundwater, and
prevents saturation or flooding
farther down the slope

IDENTIFYING AMENITIES
The act of digging into the ground to create
ponds, alter slopes, or install drains can hit
underground services (such as water and gas
pipes, and electrical cables) or existing drains
and sewers. Never excavate the site unless
you know what is directly below, and do not
presume that amenities are in the exact
Sloping garden Moisture-loving plants locations shown on government plans. Take
All rainwater falling on this garden will eventually find its Groundwater may be a problem, but it is also
your time to identify problems, and employ
way into the ground or to the pond, which is located at an opportunity. A naturally high water table or
the lowest point. An overflow may be needed to channel butyl-lined bog garden can make an ideal place for a specialist surveyor if you are in any doubt.
any excess water into an underground drain or gutter. growing a range of beautiful moisture-loving plants.
 Design considerations
If your garden is on a sloping site, you will proposed spaces, and possible access for
need to create flat, usable surfaces. Often earth-moving machines. More complex
this requires construction work so, when solutions may be required for steeper sites
drawing up plans, consider budget and time and slopes that are less stable, or where
constraints, the overall size and shape of the especially large level areas are required.

Decking and platforms

Rainwater collection To construct flat platforms or walkways on Stepped Decking must be
This recycled barrel holds enough rainwater to cover a platforms well constructed,
a slope with minimal disturbance to existing could be linked so seek
short period of dry weather, and makes an attractive
addition to the overall appearance of the garden. ground levels, it is best to use timber. by steps professional help
Decking is especially useful where access for
earth-moving is difficult, when slopes are too
Reduce flooding risks steep to alter, and on undulating surfaces
Where drainage is not managed carefully, around wetlands. However, it is short-lived Original slope
does not need
it can cause flooding, both in your garden compared to other landform solutions. to be disturbed
and in the local neighbourhood, if storm
drains are unable to cope with the excess.
In the U.S. there are regulations about Sturdy timber
paving over front yards, so check before supports need
firm foundations
any redesign. To prevent flooding, plan a
low-impact development (LID) by creating
areas where water can collect, and then be
absorbed slowly into the ground, following
heavy rain. Planted areas absorb large
quantities of water, helping to mitigate Terracing
flooding. You can also include small Small-scale terracing can be used to make
depressions that act as temporary ponds, horizontal planting beds on a slope. A series Original slope
Level surface
filled with plants that thrive in wet and drier of retaining walls, set one above the other, for planting,
lawn, or patio
conditions. The aim is to retain all the provide structure, then soil is cut away from Balance the amount
cut from the slope,
water that falls on the garden in the garden. the slope for backfilling. Work can be done with that required to
Also install rain barrels and use the by hand or with a mechanical digger. Any fill behind the wall

captured rainwater on your plants. large-scale terracing will require the advice
Aquatic plants
of professional designers and engineers.

Flow diagram
Where waterlogging is not severe,
excess surface water can be directed Retaining edge of brick,
into a drainage ditch or pond. If the timber beams,
water table is high, you will need to or metal panels
install an underground drainage system,
preferably using a specialist contractor.

Creating gentle slopes

Undulating land can be landscaped into
gentle slopes or flatter areas. Excess soil
or base material may be generated, or more Soil to be removed
for infilling
required to achieve the desired levels and,
in both cases, this may increase the cost. Original undulations
Any changes will destroy existing vegetation
and cannot be carried out beneath the
canopies of trees that you want to retain.

Gentle slope formed

Garden pool by infilling hollows
An informal pool can be used to capture excess water with excavated soil
and will serve as a perfect habitat for wetland and
aquatic plants and animals.
Down to the ground
Before selecting plants, test the soil in your garden to
ensure your favorites will thrive there. Mediterranean-
style gardens, such as this one, require free-draining soil
and a sunny position, mirroring the conditions found in
the plants’ native habitats. A gravel mulch helps to
prevent stems and leaves from rotting.
designer Martin Royer
108/109 How to design
ASSESSING YOUR GARDEN

Assessing your garden options

When thinking about a new design for your garden, first ask yourself which elements you like and want to
keep, and which you dislike. Next, consider your budget—does it allow you to add a new feature to
adapt the existing garden, or will you decide to go for a wholesale makeover, with a new planting design
and landscaping? If money is tight, it may still be possible to rejuvenate a tired mature garden simply by
taking a fresh approach and injecting some new ideas.

Degrees of change
Before you start designing, think about whether you’d like a series of connected spaces), you may want to rethink the entire area;
completely new look, a new feature such as a patio or a pond, or larger plots will take more time and money to redesign from scratch.
whether you would prefer to keep the same layout but overhaul the List the features you consider important and bear in mind that your
planting. If your garden is small or seen as one space (rather than a needs may change in the future, as your children grow, for example.

COMPLETELY NEW LOOK DEVELOPING AN EXISTING PLOT ADDING A NEW FEATURE

Wholesale change can be hard to visualize, and This is the most common approach, and, even Making a change to just one part of your garden
often means removing existing structures and though you will be working with existing is the simplest option, but take care to integrate
mature plants. However, it gives you the chance elements, it is still possible to refresh the look. a new feature sympathetically. Pay particular
to do something radically different with a garden, List the features you plan to keep. With multilevel attention to choosing materials and colors that
and create an innovative space personal to you. or sloping gardens, a site survey may be needed. blend in well with the existing design.

PROS PROS PROS

• An exciting blank canvas upon which to create • This approach is usually less time-consuming • Adding one new feature should be a
whatever you want. and costly than a total makeover. straightforward change to manage.
• The end result will be more coherent and • You can work in stages and tackle different • The rest of your garden will still be usable
integrated if you do not have to make areas of the garden in sequence. while this feature is being installed.
compromises around existing elements. • You can make use of the existing mature • Focusing on just one project means you can
planting, so there is no need to wait for concentrate on getting the details right.
CONS everything in your garden to grow.
• Loss of mature trees and shrubs. CONS
• New plants take time to fulfill their potential. CONS • Making sure that your new feature fits visually
• The reality may not match your vision. • The end result may lack cohesion. It is with the rest of your garden can be difficult.
• Short-term loss of wildlife habitats—although, important to make sure that the features you • You can’t let your imagination run free.
depending on your new design, these should add are complementary to existing ones. • You may damage other areas of the garden
return over time. • The renovations may not have the dramatic while building the new feature. Lawns and
• Sometimes a completely blank canvas can be impact you are looking for. existing plants are particularly vulnerable.
more daunting than adapting an existing layout.
COST CONSIDERATIONS COST CONSIDERATIONS
COST CONSIDERATIONS • Working with the current layout is less • This is the least expensive option—unless,
• Potentially expensive—hard landscaping, and expensive than a complete makeover, and of course, you are planning something very
mature plants, if you don’t want to wait for makes sense if you want to undertake changes glamorous. The budget should be relatively
plants to grow, are costly. in stages as money becomes available. straightforward to manage.
Case study: a new family garden
Every garden overhaul begins with a series of questions, and even
when you have made a list of desirables and undesirables, you also
need to consider the pros and cons of keeping or removing significant
elements. For example, if you are thinking of taking out a mature tree
because it casts summer shade, check that this disadvantage is not
outweighed by its benefits: it may also provide shelter from wind,
privacy and screening from neighboring buildings, and add height to
your garden. It is also worth checking if your trees are protected by
a tree preservation law (ask your local government office).
Making decisions about your garden will be easier if you are very
familiar with the plot. If your yard is new to you, be patient and live
with it for several seasons to see what appears and what changes,
before you make any dramatic alterations.
In the case study discussed here, a family garden is the subject of a
The original plot
renovation. The pictures below show some of the options open to The way you use a typical family garden, and the amount of time you spend in it, will
the owners, depending on how much change they want. inevitably change as children grow. Design play areas so that they can be adapted.

INTRODUCE ADAPT OR REMOVE KEEP

MORE STRUCTURE BEDS AND BORDERS OUTBUILDINGS

New hard-landscaping elements, such as paths, Planting areas can be adapted and new shrubs and Sound, useful structures, such as greenhouses,
patios, and walls, have immediate impact. perennials added, or they can be totally replanted. can be integrated into your new design.

PLAY AREAS PONDS MATURE TREES

Lay an appropriate surface and add structures Ideal for older children, but fit a grille if you are Try to work around mature, slow-growing trees if
that can be changed in the future as needs alter. concerned for the safety of young ones. possible; they offer valuable structure and height.

OUTDOOR LIVING ROOMS UNSIGHTLY PATIOS PERENNIALS

Extend your living space by creating areas in the It is easy to distract attention from an unattractive Keep established plant communities where they
garden for eating, entertaining, and relaxing. terrace with tubs of plants, and garden furniture. are evidently thriving and suit the conditions.
110/111 How to design
ASSESSING YOUR GARDEN

Designing boundaries
Boundaries create a frame for your outdoor space, and are among the most important elements in a
garden. They may indicate legal ownership, help to create a microclimate, and provide privacy. Most
disputes between neighbors concern boundaries, and there are many legal regulations governing them,
so before making any changes, first check who owns yours. If your neighbors have ownership, consult
with them first and discuss any proposed changes to avoid conflict later.

Evaluating privacy Original patio

in neighbor’s
Before making changes to a boundary, Viewpoint from direct view Neighbors’ views
especially if it is to be higher or removed, take neighbor’s Carefully chosen structures
upstairs window
time to evaluate the impact of the changes on can create sheltered areas
in your yard, reducing the
your own and your neighbors’ privacy and light. need for high fences or
Canopy or pergola
Check from all doors and windows, in shields seating area
hedging. A patio or seating
particular upstairs windows, and assess what area can be screened off
from your neighbors’ view
you can see now and what you will be able to with a canopy or pergola,
see once the change has been made. Bear in allowing you to retain your
mind that deciduous trees lose their leaves in privacy without loss of light
to either side.
the winter, which will mean more light but a less
secluded garden. Also, raising the ground level Neighbor’s Original
on your side—with a deck, for example—may yard patio

intrude upon your neighbors’ privacy. Boundary

Increasing privacy
Increasing the height of boundaries may be
illegal, so check with your local government
first. However, it is possible to increase the
privacy within your own yard without altering
the boundaries themselves. Strategic
positioning of new trees can help, but they
will take time to grow. Tall, fast-growing
evergreen hedges may be subject to local
ordinances, as well as being high-
maintenance, and should be avoided.
Consider using trellises, which can support
climbing plants and also help to create a
sheltered microclimate by allowing air to pass
through them (see p.61). Best of all, create
spaces in your garden that are not overlooked
by your neighbors (see diagram above).

△ Pergola cover
Combined with climbing plants, this is an
attractive way to create privacy without
blocking light to the rest of your garden.

◁ Sheltered patio
Well-placed planting forms a secluded site
for seating areas—an umbrella can give
additional privacy when the table is in use.

▷ Temporary screen
A makeshift cover like this one creates
shelter and privacy wherever it is needed,
and can be conveniently packed away.
Keeping in with neighbors BOUNDARY REGULATIONS
Although we all want some privacy, it is important to
Permission may be needed to build a fence
establish good relations with neighbors. You could place
or wall next to a public highway or within
tall screens around your patio area, and lower fences private communities, so check with the
elsewhere to encourage conversation. When planning relevant local government office or
your garden, consider anything which could irritate your neighborhood association. Fence posts
neighbors, intrude into their space, or block their light. should be on your side to ensure that the
Communal gardens, on the other hand, are designed fence does not intrude on to your
to encourage friendship and cooperation. They need neighbor’s property, and plant hedges at
careful planning, and you should also consider who will least 3 ft (1 m) away from the boundary, on
be responsible for the garden’s long-term maintenance. your land. Your title deeds will show you
where your property boundaries lie.
△▷ Friendly divide
Low fences encourage
communication and
friendship between
Considering
neighbors while also
allowing more light
neighbors’ light
into both gardens.
There may be laws in your area governing an
individual’s right to light. Most light is blocked
from yards by trees, although garden
structures and poorly planned building
layouts can also create dark zones. Before
taking the law into your own hands, seek
▷ Shared space
Communal gardens expert advice. It may be possible to remove
encourage community part of an offending tree, or to negotiate
spirit and work well changes to boundaries to allow your
where there is shared
responsibility neighbors more light. When planning changes
for their care. to your own garden, consider the impact
they will have on neighbors’ light at different
times of the day and year, both now and in
Security issues ▽◁ Thorny shield the future. This particularly applies to trees
Boundaries provide security, but it is best to strike a Pyracantha is a good choice for a and hedges, as they will grow in height and
balance between imprisoning yourself and opening your burglar-proof screen, but will take time width, and could potentially cause problems.
to grow; combine it with a simple post
garden to your surroundings. Police recommend that and wire fence until it matures, then
fencing, walls, or hedges at the front of your house are keep it to under 6 ft (2 m) in height. Large tree
under 3 ft (1 m) in height, so your doors and windows
are visible from the street. Use lights to illuminate your ▽ Automatic protection
space, but ensure that you do not floodlight your Electronic gates maximize security Prune to reduce shade
neighbors’ property. Spiky evergreen shrubs, such as for large properties, or where
burglary rates are high. They can be
Pyracantha, holly, or blackthorn can be grown to form unattractive, so look for well-designed
attractive barriers that will deter most intruders. gates that blend in with your garden.
Shadow cast
by large tree

Shadow cast
after pruning

Neighbor’s
yard
Boundary

Light idea
Think about how your boundaries, or elements within
your garden, will cast shade on to your neighbors’ plot.
Here, a large tree could be pruned to allow much more
light into the adjacent yard.
Creating a plan

Drawing up accurate site and planting plans is a crucial stage of any garden design. By bringing
all your ideas together on paper you can see if they are viable within the space available, and get
a clear visual image of what you want to achieve. Detailed plans also help prevent any costly
mistakes before you buy materials and plants, or employ contractors.
With a few basic tools, and an assistant to help take measurements, you
can draw up a site plan yourself. The process is explained over the next few
pages, and includes a few tricks of the trade to make it easier. There is also
a variety of computer software packages available for this purpose.
However, if you have a difficult site or the prospect of drawing a plan is too
daunting, you may prefer to employ a surveyor to help you.
When the site plan is complete, and you have decided on the structural
elements and plants you intend to keep or introduce, you can start to play
around with different design options. Even if you have an idea of the basic
shapes you intend to use, it is always interesting to see how redirecting a
sightline or introducing a small grove of trees or a collection of containers
would change the mood of the garden.
A separate planting plan is also a good idea. Apart from helping you to
A detailed plan, drawn to
assess the number of plants needed for your design, it will also clarify scale, brings ideas to life.
whether they work well in the overall
design and fulfill their intended
function. For example, you can use
your plan to design a herbaceous
bed in a sunny corner, or mark out an
area for plants with winter interest that
can be seen easily from the house.
Above all, study your plot from all
angles and vantage points before you
begin. Get to know your soil type and
the path of the sun, then relax and
enjoy this part of the creative process. Plan planting carefully so your designs work as intended.
114/115 How to design
CREATING A PLAN

Creating a site plan

Now that you have mastered the basic theories of garden
design, it is time to put your ideas on paper. There are several
different types of plan (see pp.22–23), but before creating your Measuring up
Use the right
final design, you need to draw up a site plan, which shows all the equipment to ensure
basic measurements in your garden, as well as the position, measurements are
accurate. Get it wrong
shape, and size of elements that you intend to keep. You can at this stage and your
site plan could be
then use this plan to develop new layouts and planting designs. rendered useless.

Getting started
The idea of creating a site plan can be a bit because their location will directly affect
daunting if you haven’t put one together your ideas and design, but also because your ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENT
before, but most plans are easy to produce, house is one of the best points from which To measure up accurately you need the
especially if you have a small- to medium- to measure other features, such as trees, right equipment; most items are available
size, fairly regularly shaped garden with sheds, and so on. from home improvement stores. You can
straightforward topography. However, if Now, roughly sketch the outline of the use a digital laser measure instead of tapes.
you have a large, irregularly shaped or hilly garden and the position of the relevant • Level
plot, or even one that is very overgrown, elements within it. Refine your sketch • Tape measures of varying lengths—for
it may be wise to employ a land surveyor until it is clear enough to mark up with example, small, medium, and extra-long—
(see opposite). measurements. Then start measuring up or digital laser measure
When drawing up a site plan for your plot, (see below and pp.116–117). Even if you are • Pegs and string
first take a pencil and sketch pad (letter-sized only planning minimal changes to your plot, • Sketch pad
paper is best) out into the garden and study it is worth taking a few basic measurements,
the boundary and position of any elements such as the length and width of the help of a family member, friend, or neighbor.
you plan to keep, such as outbuildings, hard boundaries, to give you a sense of scale for If possible, take measurements in centimeters,
landscaping, and planting. It is also important new features, such as flower beds or a water rather than feet and inches, as the metric
to take note of the position of your house, feature. Whatever the size and shape of your system makes it simpler to convert sizes to
including the doors and windows—not only garden, you will also find it easier with the create a scale plan (see p.118).

Measuring a rectangular-shaped plot

Rectangular and square gardens are the easiest to the corresponding boundaries on your features, measure at right angles to the
to measure. Ask your assistant to help you sketch. Then measure the length of the house the distance to the feature/plant
measure all four sides of the garden with a garden’s two diagonals and mark them up on you want to keep. Do the same from a
long tape measure, and add the measurements your sketch, too. To ascertain the position of boundary, as shown below.

Take the
Mark both dimensions of
diagonals on features, such
Mark the your sketch as this shed,
length and before plotting
width of the its position
garden on in relation
your sketch to the three
surrounding
boundaries
Measure the and the house
distance
between the Use the house
house and and boundary
Measure the boundary. to measure
length of the Here, the the position
house, and house butts of existing
the position of up to the features
doors and boundary
windows

Boundaries Diagonals Features

Carefully measure all four sides of your plot. Diagonal measurements help to create Plot the position of features that you
Also measure the house and the distance an accurate plan of the plot if it is not plan to keep by taking measurements
from the house to the boundary. a perfect square or rectangle. at 90° from the house and boundary.
Site plans for rectangular plots Measuring gradients
When you have decided which scale you are going to use, You will need This method is only suitable for small
convert your measurements accordingly (see p.118). For large- or • Grid or graph inclines. It is useful if you want a couple
medium-sized plots you may want to create more than one plan paper, or plain of steps or terraced flower bed and need
paper
for different areas, or use different scales to focus on a planting • Measuring triangle
to calculate the required heights. For
bed or similar feature that requires more detail. When drawing • Scale rule and/or more complex works or difficult sites,
up your plan, use a large pad of graph or grid paper; you can use clear plastic ruler employ a land surveyor.
plain paper and a measuring triangle, but it is more difficult and • Pencil and pens
the results may not be as accurate. Then, using a sharp pencil and • Eraser You will need
ruler, plot the measurements on the paper and draw out your • 1 length of wood just over 3 ft (1 m) long
• Level and tape measure
scale plan. You can then go over the pencil lines in pen. • 2 or 3 wooden pegs
Lay the wood
from ground
Use a level to ensure level to the top
that the wood of the peg
is exactly level
Measure the

(20 cm)
8 in
height of each
m)
upright peg from 3 ft (1

(50 cm)
ground level

20 in
)
(1 m
3 ft

(35 cm)
14 in
)
(1 m
3 ft

1 From a specified point on the slope, measure

3 ft (1 m) down the hill, and hammer in a peg.
Check it is vertical using a level.

2 Lay the wood from the soil surface at your

original point to the top of the peg, and use
a level to check it is horizontal. Measure the height
of the peg.

3 Then, 3 ft (1 m) farther down the slope, hammer

in a second peg, as before. Lay the wood from
the bottom of the first peg to the top of the second.
1 Start in the bottom left-hand corner of your
page. Draw the wall or walls of your house—
including the positions and dimensions of the
2 To draw in the boundaries, mark the length
and width on the plan, and add the diagonals.
Diagonals show if the plot is a perfect square or 4 Measure the height of the second peg. Repeat
these steps as necessary until you reach the
doors and windows. rectangle, or slightly off. bottom of the slope. Next, calculate the “fall” or
drop.

5 To do this, add up the heights of all the pegs.

Here the calculation would be: 14 in + 20 in
+ 8 in = 42 in over 9 ft (35 cm + 50 cm + 20 cm =
105 cm over 3 m).

EMPLOYING A SURVEYOR
You may wish to employ a land surveyor
to produce a site plan for you if you have
a difficult site. Surveyors in your local area
can be found online at the site of the
surveyor association in your state. You can
also talk to your title company or real estate
agent and have them recommend one.
The cost of employing a land surveyor
will depend on the size and complexity
of your plot, and may vary depending on
where you live. This fee will pay for a
topographical survey, but a cross-section
may cost more. Not all land surveyors are
used to surveying gardens, so explain your

3 4
Use the measurements you took from the Lastly, plot all other features. Carefully draw needs carefully to ensure you employ the
house and the boundaries with a tri-square on sheds, patios, pools, paths, and outbuildings, right professional for the job.
to add trees and major planting—don’t forget to if you are planning to keep them.
include their canopies.
116/117 How to design
CREATING A PLAN

Measuring an irregularly shaped plot

If your plot is large, has an irregular boundary,
is hilly or undulating, or very overgrown, it Features such
as trees can be
may be best to pay a surveyor to measure added later

it accurately and draw a site plan. However,

the methods shown here are not especially
difficult, so try one and see how you fare 1 Measure the façade of
your house. Add the exact
before calling in the experts. Draw one
main line
position and measurements
along each
of any doors and windows,
length as well as any gaps between
the house and the garden’s
Advanced techniques Draw a small boundary. Mark these in feet
cross on the on your sketch.
Although the measuring techniques shown here are main line to
slightly more involved than those used on page 114, denote the
measurement Use lines
they are still relatively straightforward. There are of a door or like this to
window denote doors
two methods to choose from: “taking offsets” and and windows
“triangulation.” Start with an outline sketch of your
garden on an plain sheet of paper (see p.114). Then
choose the technique you find easier, but do not use a
combination of the two, as this will make the process Measure
from the 50 ft Every few
more complicated, especially when you come to transfer main tape to 5 ft inches, measure
your measurements to a scale plan (see p.118). For both all relevant 30 ft from the main
features to tape to the
methods, start by taking measurements of the façade of be retained boundary
11.5 ft
your house, including windows, doors, and gaps between
the house and boundary, and mark these on your sketch.
14 ft
Taking offsets
To take offsets, you need two tape measures—one long 17 ft
2 Peg a long tape measure
at the façade of the house
and note its exact position on
and one shorter, to measure the length and width of 12 ft
your sketch. Using a giant
your plot—and a giant tri-square, essentially a huge tri-square to ensure a 90°
triangle. Use the tri-square to help you to lay the long 25 ft
angle, run the tape to the end
tape measure along the full length of the garden on the of the garden. Lay a second
Mark the exact tape at 90° to the first to
ground at exactly 90° to the house. Use the second, position of the 11 ft measure points along the
shorter tape to measure at 90° (again, use the tri-square main tape
measure on boundary and the position
to ensure the accuracy of your right angles) the distances your sketch 12 ft of relevant features.
from this main line to points along the boundary and to 7 ft
relevant features you want to keep. Clearly mark these 0 ft
measurements in feet on your initial sketch.

Getting some perspective

Whether you want to redesign part or all of (1 m) intervals, and so that they are 3 ft
your garden, site plans are an indispensable (1 m) high (you can clip off the tops with
tool. However, unless you have at least pruning shears if necessary). Take a
some experience in reworking spaces or photograph of your garden with the
are naturally adept at imagining change, bamboo grid and print it out. Then
they may not help you to visualize how your enlarge it—to a useful size—on
new garden will look in three dimensions. a color photocopier. Lay a sheet of
However, this simple idea will help to tracing paper over the photocopy and
convey a sense of scale and proportion. You then use the canes to help you draw your
will need several bamboo canes, each just proposed new features in perspective
over 3 ft (1 m) in length, a tape measure, (see p.22). Use the grid to block in areas Mapping your garden
This visualization technique works best in open spaces.
and a giant tri-square. Form a square grid by of planting or design screens, using the Take an initial photograph of the area you want to design
pushing the canes into the ground at 3 ft vertical canes to judge the heights. from the spot where you will be viewing the garden.
 Using triangulation
On paper, this advanced measuring technique looks Triangulation is
1 Measure the façade of
your house, and the doors
and windows, and mark these
a good method for
slightly more complicated than taking offsets, but in measuring the measurements on your garden
position of curved sketch (see Step 1 in “Taking
practice many garden designers consider triangulation boundaries offsets,” opposite).
easier and favor it over the offset method. accurately
Triangulation involves marking two spots on the house
—usually 3–6 ft (1–2 m) apart, but they could be farther
apart on a larger property—and then measuring from
each of these spots to one point on the boundary, or a
relevant feature, to form a triangle. This triangle and
its measurements should then be marked on your
sketch. Repeat this process at several points along the
boundary—or the edges of a feature, such as a shed or
a tree and its canopy. The more measurements you take,
the more accurate your site plan will be.
Draw in the house,
You can then use these measurements to plot points windows, and doors
on a scale plan and reproduce the exact dimensions of (see Step 1 in “Taking
offsets,” opposite)
the garden and position of the boundaries, and any
additional structures and key plants (see p.119).

Measure several
points along the
boundary. You will
need these to get an
accurate outline of
2 Measure from one spot
on the house to a point
on the boundary. Repeat from
Measure to
the same point
on the feature
3 Measure from one
spot on the house to a
feature, such as a tree.
the garden
another spot on the house Repeat from another spot
to the same point on the on the house to the same
boundary, and the distance point on the feature, and
between the two points on the distance between the
42 ft the house. Note all three two points on the house.
distances on your sketch. Note all three distances
on your sketch.
34 ft

Measure the
canopies of
Measure from two trees, and
points on the house perimeters
12 ft to one point on the of beds and
boundary to form two borders, too
sides of a triangle
32 ft
11 ft The façade of the
house will form
32 ft one side of your
triangle

Measure between two

spots on the house

6 ft
9 ft

1 Place the bamboo canes 3 ft (1 m) apart to form

a square grid over the whole area—use a tape
measure and giant tri-square to ensure accuracy.
2 Make sure that the bamboo canes are the same height,
3
3 ft (1 m) is a good choice, or the sense of perspective
will be lost. Take another photograph of the garden.
Print out the photograph and enlarge it on a color
photocopier. Lay tracing paper over the image, then
use the canes as a guide to draw your proposed features.
118/119 How to design
CREATING A PLAN

Using scale and drawing more

complex plans
Essentially, a scale plan is a proportional visual representation of your garden, and you can draw one easily
by converting the measurements you took of your garden (see p.114 and pp.116–17) to one of the scales
outlined below. It is also worth investing in a scale rule (a rule with scales such as 1:10, 1:20, and 1:50 marked
on it) for this job, as it dispenses with the need for calculations. When your site plan is complete, use it as
the basis for your design and planting ideas.

Choosing a scale
There are several scales to choose from, it is best to use scales of 1:20 or 1:50; for
including 1:10, 1:20, 1:50, 1:100, and 1:200. a larger plot, you may want to use a 1:100
Put simply, a 1:1 scale shows an object at its scale, or even a 1:200 scale for an extensive
actual size; on a 1:10 scale plan, 1 cm on country garden.
paper represents 10 cm measured in your Designers often draw more than one plan,
garden; on a 1:20 scale, 1 cm on paper and use different scales to show different
represents 20 cm on the ground; and on a details. For example, a 1:50 scale can be used
1:50 scale, 1 cm on paper represents 50 cm for planting plans, and a 1:20 or 1:10 scale is
in your garden. For small domestic gardens, best for structural features, such as a pond.

Whole garden 1:100 Planting plan 1:50 Architectural details 1:20

This is the best scale for an overview of medium-sized to Perfect for most planting plans, this scale is ideal for showing This scale allows you to work out quantities of hard
large gardens. If your garden is particularly big, you may the position of larger architectural or specimen plants, and landscaping materials, such as pavers. Use it to calculate
have to draw your site plan on a large sheet of paper. general planting designs. For more detail, to show exactly the exact numbers you will need if building garden
how many plants you will need in a 3 ft x 6 ft (1 m x 2 m) features yourself, or supply building contractors with a
border, for example, 1:20 may be a better option. 1:20 plan to enable them to make these calculations.
Drawing a plan for an irregularly shaped plot
You will need
• Grid or graph paper, or plain paper
and a measuring triangle
• Large pair of compasses (for triangulation)
• Scale rule and/or clear plastic ruler
• Pencil and pens, and eraser

Regardless of the method—triangulation or

offsets—used to measure your irregular plot
and its features, start by drawing your house
and the doors and windows on your plan.
If you used offsets, draw a line at 90° to
the house to represent the tape measure.
Using the graph paper’s grid and a ruler or a
scale rule, plot the boundary measurements
at 90° to this line; join the dots to form the
boundary. Then add features, also plotting 1 Draw the house, doors, and windows, and
then set the compasses to the first scaled
measurement you took from the house. Place
2 Reset the compasses to the second
measurement you took from the house
to form the triangle. Place the point where
measurements at 90° to the central line. the point where you measured from on the you measured from on the house, and
If you took measurements using house, and draw a small arc. draw a second arc to cross the first.
triangulation, use the method on the right
to draw up your scale site plan.

TOP TIPS
• Use Google Earth to check the shape of
your plot. On larger or more open plots
you may even see trees, features, and sheds.
• Don’t overcomplicate your sketch.
If necessary, use more than one sheet to
record dimensions of the main garden,
and a separate sheet for details, such as
planting plans.
• If an impenetrable area of vegetation gets
in the way, estimate its dimensions from the

3 4
measurements around it. Repeat Step 1 and Step 2 for all of your Use the same technique outlined in
• When drawing your site plan, use metric boundary triangulation measurements. Steps 1 to 3 to plot the position of the
graph paper for a more accurate result. With a pencil, join up the center point of garden’s features—such as outbuildings,
each of the crosses to plot your boundary. trees, plants, or water features—to create
You can then go over the line in pen. your scale site plan.

The finished site plan Accurately

You’ve taken all the necessary plotted
boundary
measurements, converted them to line
your chosen scale, and drawn up The shape, size
your scale site plan (or plans, if you and position of
outbuildings, such
chose to use more than one). This as sheds or
accurate representation of your Exact position greenhouses
of features,
garden’s boundary, and any existing including
features that you intend to work overhangs
or canopies Using your working plan
around, is an important design tool. Any hard
As well as creating your own
landscaping that
Take photocopies of your plan, scan will remain, design, you can use a scale site
it onto a computer, and print out including patios plan to show builders the size
and paths and type of surfaces and
copies, or make a few tracings. You features you want. Also some
can then use these copies or Space design companies offer
between mail-order services, particularly
tracings to sketch shapes and ideas house and for planting designs, and ask for
that will fit the plot. boundary
a site plan to help them produce
an accurate plan.
120/121 How to design
CREATING A PLAN

Experimenting with plans

More accurate than a bubble diagram or sketch, a
scale drawing enables you to experiment with
A back gate provides
different layouts in enough detail to ensure that the access to a lane running
behind the property
design fits and works well. Although all proposed
elements, such as paths and planting, must be
drawn to scale, the drawing does not need to be
too technical. Here, designer Richard Sneesby
explores four ideas for one simple plot.
The garden
The garden: four solutions This simple plan is drawn
to a scale of 1:100, where
This simple plan (see right) shows a rectangular plot, with the rear each centimeter grid
elevation of the house located along the bottom line. Adjoining the square equals 100 cm on
house is a patio, and the garden includes an existing tree and shed. the ground. Therefore,
the 250 cm-wide border
There is also a rear access gate in the top-right corner. that runs around the
Each of the four plans shows different design options for this site. edge of the plot is 2.5 cm
All feature a lawn, pond, paving/deck area, and access to the back wide on the plan.
The garden runs the full The patio indicates
gate, and three include a shed. The tree has been removed in two width of the house where the garden is
designs, as it would compromise the suggested layout. accessed from the house

Option one Option two

By positioning rectangular areas diagonally, the corner-to-corner The garden here is divided by a series of hedges that create a visual
orientation of this garden gives it a dramatic appearance. The design and physical chicane, keeping views short and varied; they also act as
provides planting areas that are deep enough for larger specimens, a unifying element across the plot. The hedges would be grown to
and a triangular pond that can be appreciated from the nearby different heights to allow or inhibit views, giving visual variety. Rows
seating area. This is a garden of two halves, with a hedge dividing of trees reinforce the division created by the hedges but would allow
(and possibly screening) the two lawn areas, allowing each section views beneath their canopies. The design also includes rectilinear
to be given a distinct character. flowerbeds, a formal pond, and a shed hidden behind a high hedge.

Shed or summerhouse Trees and shed help to screen

adds height and structure garden from neighbors

Path and patio are laid

with the same material Taller trees help to hide
to show consistency the view of the shed
across the garden from the house and
frame the lawn area

A wide, formal lawn

provides plenty of space Deep borders provide
for family recreation ample space for varied
and socializing and generous planting

Sense of enclosure
Angles at work Dividing gardens through
Diagonal alignments work the use of parallel screens
well in rectangular plots, encourages movement
especially in urban areas. around the whole site.
They create generous This garden would feel
planting beds and throw intimate, and provide many
Growing large shrubs or small the eye to the corners, Topiaried box shrubs opportunities for design
trees in pots allows bolder helping to make full use complement the details, such as woodland
planting near the house of the space available. formality of the pond areas and sculpture.
Option three Option four
With its strong diagonal axis, this design works in a similar This curvilinear plan would be more complicated to set out on
way to Option one. The oval-shaped lawn provides a central the ground than the other designs, but would accommodate
space, further defined by a low, flowering hedge. The trees existing features and levels more easily. The lines are sweeping
also help reinforce the geometry, and partially enclose the organic curves, the pond much less formal, and there are two
central area. The summerhouse is a focal element here, distinct seating areas. Planting beds vary in width to allow a wide
while a decked area and pool overlap on to the lawn to variety of plants and combinations to be grown. However, as
provide opportunities for attractive detailing. The planting there are no hedges, taller plants would be needed to prevent
beds are deep and generous. the garden from looking and feeling too open.
A limited range of materials
This hidden area is the perfect adds interest without clutter
place for a compost heap

The pond, crossed via Decked seating area

a small bridge, provides acts as a focal point
a restful setting for the and provides space for
summerhouse seasonal containers

Larger trees give shelter

and privacy, and help to
define the view through
The oval-shaped lawn the garden from the house
makes full use of the site,
and is kept private by the
surrounding trees

Oval approach Flexible design

Central circular zones can Curved, organic shapes
help to unify a space and can be used to create
bring the garden together. a more relaxed feel, and
Using an oval shape, in the layout can be adapted
particular, gives the garden Informal graveled area to accommodate larger
Clipped, pot-grown offers easy access and
specimens complete a sense of direction, and long views up the garden plants as they grow. Such
the circle of trees closest leads the eye across the shapes are difficult to build
to the house spacious lawn. using paving materials.

Using design software

To create a plan on your computer, you can
choose from a wide range of garden design Bird’s-eye view
software packages available. Look for Using SketchUp, designer Richard
options appropriate to your level of skill and Sneesby shows a formal layout of
terraces adjacent to the house.
the amount of detail you want to include. Shadows are geo-located to show
Most are quick to learn and some are free the sunny areas throughout the year.
to download, although the price you pay
generally determines the quality of the plan
you can produce. Some packages also show
how selected plants will develop over time,
but check that the one you select provides
a searchable database of plants suitable for View from the terrace
your soil and climate conditions. 3D models, such as this, allow you to see
Professional designers use specialist the design from eye level. Simple modeling,
without planting details, helps develop an
computer-aided design (CAD) software understanding of the space and structure.
to design accurate 2D layouts for contract
drawings and commercial tendering, often
combined with SketchUp illustrations to
create 3D visuals of their ideas.
122/123 How to design
CREATING A PLAN

Planning your planting

A combination of practicality and artistic flair is required to
plan a planting scheme. The practical considerations include
soil type, aspect, and the amount of shade and sun the site
receives. You may also want to consider using plants to offer
shelter, structure, or scent close to a seating area. Your ideas
and inspirations inject the all-important artistic input.

First steps
Before planning your planting, draw up a site plan (see pp.114–119).
You can then start thinking about the whole design of your garden,
and how planting fits into the overall look. Sketch in the shapes and
sizes of proposed beds and borders, and take photographs of the
garden, too—either an aerial shot from a bedroom window, or from Visualization technique
You may find it easier to visualize your planting if you
the area from which your planting will be most often viewed. You mock it up by using garden objects of similar sizes, such
can then use these to help judge the scale of planting you need. as bamboo canes, buckets, cardboard boxes, and pots.

Choosing the right plants

You can either start with a list of your favorite plants and work them
into your design, or decide on the look you want and then find plants
to fit the heights and shapes required on your site plan. In reality,
though, a planting plan usually ends up being a combination of both.
Whichever approach you take, bear the following points in mind.
First, make sure the plants you choose will cope with the site and
soil conditions; then when arranging plants on your plan, check their
height, texture, and shape in relation to those you will be placing next
to them. Flowering period is important if you are looking to highlight
a particular season; otherwise focus on foliage attributes first. In a
small garden, a planting palette limited to relatively few different
types of plants will have the greatest impact. For inspiration, go to
the garden center and group your chosen plants together. Or search
online: Pinterest, Instagram, and Houzz offer lots of planting ideas.

△ Habitat match
In this naturalistic planting, drought-
tolerant succulents and alpines, which
require free-draining conditions, are
planted in a bed of gravel and pebbles.

△ Balanced forms ▷ Consider the seasons

Choose a range of marginals with different Make the most of the available light and
leaf shapes, such as these irises and moist ground in late winter and spring
astilbes, for a balanced poolside display. when planting under deciduous trees.
Plants with design functions
It is easy to become fixated on flower and leaf color, but
◁ Fill the gaps
many plants offer other equally attractive attributes that Bulbs provide seasonal color and can be
will add an extra dimension to your planting. Perfume squeezed between permanent plantings.
is an obvious one and is a must near patios and around Spring bulbs will cheer your border before
most perennials appear, and Allium
doors and windows, while structure—for example, the bulbs (left) in early summer are followed
domed hummocks of Hebe and the sword-like leaves of by colorful Gladiolus and Nerine.
Phormium—can be used to give visual emphasis to a
planting. Many climbers can be trained over trellises to ▽ Year-round interest
Flower color is often a transient feature,
disguise an ugly view, and tough hedging plants, such but foliage has long-term impact and
as hornbeam or yew, make perfect windbreaks. should be seen as the mainstay of any
border throughout different seasons.

▷ Winter color
Winter flowers are a treat,
so make sure you can see
them from a path or the
house. Several Hamamelis
have the bonus of scent.

▷▷ Scented plants
These are best planted
and enjoyed in warm
sheltered areas of the
garden where strong
winds won’t dissipate
their perfume.
Coastal retreat
The drought-tolerant planting scheme in this garden is
designed to evoke the landscape along the Mediterranean
coast. A sunny site and free-draining soil provide the
perfect conditions for salvias, verbascums, Centranthus
ruber ‘Albus’, and wildflower Jasione montana, while pine
and tamarisk trees, typical of the region, offer cool shade.
designer Robert Myers
126/127 How to design
CREATING A PLAN

Drawing up a planting plan

Planting plans don’t have to be complicated, but they
can be a great aid, helping you to organize your ideas
and calculate planting quantities. Just measure your
garden fairly accurately and produce a simple scale
plan (see pp.114–119), then use this to outline areas
of plants and, in more detail, the shapes of planting
groups and individual specimens.
Grouping plants
The lure of an instant effect often tempts new designers to cram too Prairie-style drift planting Modernist blocks
much into a small space, but overcrowded plants tend to be unhealthy, Interlocking sausage-shaped drifts of Strong geometric shapes are emphasized
plants give a less contrived look. Make the and complemented by bold blocks of
so always bear in mind their final spreads when drawing up your shapes a good size for maximum impact. planting, such as cubes of hedging.
plan. You can achieve a fuller look by grouping plants together. With
perennials, larger groups of three or more of a single species will have
a stronger, more substantial effect than single plants dotted around,
which can look messy. Grouping plants in sausage shapes (which
works well for cottage and prairie styles), or triangles, is satisfying
to the eye and makes it easier to dovetail disparate groups. Also,
try placing the occasional plant away from its group to suggest it has
self-seeded for a naturalistic look. With shrubs, you can either plant
in groups for an instant effect, or singly and wait for them to fill the
space. Plant trees at a good distance from your property to prevent
subsidence, and give them plenty of space to mature.
A formal planting design near the house will create a contrast
with natural plantings elsewhere. Try a simple parterre formed of
squares or rectangles enclosing a cross, and outline your design with Parterres Random planting
The symmetry and formality of a parterre To re-create a natural habitat, place plants
box hedging. Avoid making the beds too small, because once planted makes planning fairly simple. Start with the in random groups. To avoid a chaotic
up they could look cramped and overly fussy. outline hedging, then add the infill plants. design, use a limited color palette.

Foliage plants Sketching ideas

that can cope
with some One of the simplest ways to visualize a
shade planting plan for a small garden is to sketch
Trees with the view from an upstairs window. Give full
fall color,
such as rein to your imagination and don’t worry
Amelanchier about accuracy at this stage. Next, identify
the views from the house at ground level
(stand by the back door) and consider
whether you want planting to enhance,
frame, or block them. Finally, walk around
the plot visualizing the overall layout, and
the shapes and positions of structural plants,
Raised bed
planted such as shrubs. Mark these on your sketch
with small as simple shapes.
perennials
Take photographs as well, so you can refer
to them when you come to draw your plan.
Trees with △ Sketching on a photograph
climbing roses If you find drawing difficult, doodling over a photograph If you feel confident, you can sketch your ideas
at their base will help you visualize the design in the context of your directly on to photographs; if not, work on
garden and get a sense of perspective. a sheet of tracing paper laid on top. You may
Plants with find that black and white printouts are less
more color ◁ Bubble diagram distracting to work with than color pictures.
that prefer This type of simplistic sketch, with rough shapes and
full sun annotation, will help you to position larger plants, such Use your rough sketches to prepare a more
as trees, and pinpoint key areas of full sun or shade. organized planting plan.
The final planting plan A low beech
hedge forms
If you are preparing a plan for your own use you will not a unified
need fancy graphics, but if it is for a client a professional- backdrop, but
won’t block
looking plan (see symbols on p.22) is appropriate. Astelia views of the
Rose planting
On your scale plan, first draw the outlines of the areas Allium
you want to plant, then add specific plants. To help you
position trees or shrubs, draw circles to scale, depicting Silvery foliage
cools down
their likely spread. Mark perennials in as freehand Lupin warm colors
shapes. To help you calculate planting densities, mark Grasses Astelia
out a square meter on the ground and work out plant Mentha
Buxus
spacings for different species using their final spreads.
Keep a note of them for future reference. Early summer
bulbs provide
Draw your plan on graph paper, or on paper marked seasonal color
Allium
with a pencil grid of 1 cm squares—you can then erase
Allium
the latter when you ink in the final design. The scale you Mentha
choose for your plan depends on the size of the beds or Laven
de r
borders you are designing, but for a detailed plan, a scale
Ballota
of 1:50 or 1:20 is appropriate (see p.118 for more on scale).
Use acrylic tracing paper to copy your final sketch and
Warm flower
produce a clean, finished drawing. Office supply stores Iris colors pick up
usually sell tracing paper. Architect’s offices often offer Salvia the red of the
brick path
a copying service for large plans. You will need at least
two copies: one to keep on file as the original and one
Trifolium
that can be taken out into the garden at planting time.
Consider laminating plans to make them weatherproof. Erigeron

Sisyrinchium
▷ The finalized plan Curved red
This is a planting plan for the border shown brick path
below. The shapes indicate the position
and number of plants within each group.
The plan also shows their final spreads,
so you can see how they will fit together.
Foliage spills
on to path to
soften the line
◁ The planting design
Successful plantings, such as in one of Cleve
West’s RHS Chelsea Flower Show gardens
in London, will inspire your own creations,
helping you to visualize how plants look
in situ. Make a note of combinations that
work well and use your smartphone or
digital camera to take photos of plantings
that catch your eye.

BUYING YOUR PLANTS

If you can afford large shrubs and trees you
can create an instantly mature look; a
smaller budget means young plants and
patience while you wait for them to grow.
Perennials flower and reach their maximum
height in the first couple of years, so don’t
spend a fortune on big plants.
It is worth asking garden centers and retail
nurseries if they give discounts to designers;
some also offer a plant sourcing service. If you
can show you are a trade customer, wholesale
nurseries allow you to buy plants in bulk.
128/129 How to design
CREATING A PLAN

Examples of planting plans

Irrespective of the style of garden you’re designing, whenever you’re putting together a planting plan check
first that the plants you choose suit the site, soil, and climate. If working on a design for a client, it is vital that
you talk through your planting ideas with them before committing to a final design, not only to help them
visualize the finished garden, but also to agree on a plan that they can easily maintain.

A divided garden Trachelospermum

Unless you divide it up in some way, a rectilinear garden holds no Rose and Hebe Allium
clematis
surprises. To avoid the “what you see is what you get” effect, designer
Fran Coulter created a visual break between a decked terrace along the
side and back of the house and the rest of the garden.
Rose and
Plants used Design in focus clematis
1 Rosa ‘New Dawn’ When a garden is overlooked by neighbors, Vitis
2 Clematis ‘Pink Fantasy’ especially from an upstairs window, a
climber-clad pergola provides privacy for
3 Trachelospermum jasminoides Veronica
seating or dining areas. However, in this
4 Lonicera nitida ‘Baggesen’s Gold’ design—the area shown is approximately
5 Buxus sempervirens 11 x 8 ft (3.5 x 2.5 m)—the pergola is
6 Weigela NAOMI CAMPBELL used as a colorful boundary between a
(syn. ‘Bokrashine’) decked terrace to the side and back of
7 Nepeta nervosa the house, and the garden beyond. The
wood is painted a matt red to match the
8 Vitis vinifera ‘Purpurea’
Scandinavian-style property. In Sweden,
the paint is traditionally made with iron
and copper ores, and these tones are Weigela
Abelia Nepeta
picked up in the planting: the purple
grapevine, wine-red Weigela, and the Lonicera Buxus
complementary pink rose and clematis.
Shady area
This 11 ft (3.5 m) square border
is backed by a high stone wall
and cherry laurel. The owners
asked designer Paul Williams
for shade-tolerant planting that
would mirror the formality of
the adjacent garden. The plants
here are mostly green with the
odd splash of color.
Plants used
1 Dryopteris affinis ‘Cristata’
2 Gazania
3 Prunus laurocerasus
4 Hosta ‘Krossa Regal’
5 Taxus baccata

Design in focus Hosta Seasonal Dryopteris

To emphasize the formality of the plants in urn
garden on the other side of the path,
this border (of which this is one section)
is broken up with yew “buttresses”
every 10 feet. Each section contains
a simple planting and an urn or feature
plant. Foliage is important: the plants
need to be shapely and shade tolerant.
Seasonal plants in the stone urn can
contrast with or complement the
surrounding plants.

City garden
Adam Frost designed this small
Persicaria Salix Persicaria
city garden filled with romantic
cottage-style planting. Soft red
bricks are the perfect foil for the
color-themed planting, which
is a sumptuous mix of crimson,
pink, and mauve.
Plants used
1 Salix elaeagnos subsp. angustifolia
2 Persicaria bistorta ‘Superba’
3 Rosa ‘Souvenir du Docteur Jamain’
4 Heuchera ‘Chocolate Ruffles’
5 Astrantia major ‘Roma’

Design in focus Astrantia

At the center of this border, which Heuchera
measures roughly 4 x 6 ft (1.2 x 2 m), Rose Astrantia
is a highly fragrant, dark crimson
cup-shaped rose, its glossy green leaves
forming an open framework for the slim
stems of the Persicaria and Astrantia
to grow through. These pale pink
perennials complement the rich tones
of the rose and help reflect light into
the design, and are fringed at ground
level by a wine-colored Heuchera.
The Salix, with its pale green filigree
leaves, provides the perfect neutral
backdrop to the warm colors.
CHOOSING A STYLE
132/133 Choosing a style
GARDEN STYLES EXPLAINED

Garden styles explained

In design terms, style refers to the way in which we express ideas and
organize materials, plants, colors, and ornaments to create a composition
that can be understood and appreciated. While some garden styles are
short-lived fashions, others represent major movements, each with their own
aims and motives. In classically inspired formal design, order, repetition, and
axial symmetry are used to create strict visual and spatial balance. This style
dates from antiquity, and even when interpreted for modern gardens, the
basic design principles still apply. In contrast, Modernism, which developed
as an influential garden design movement in the early 20th century, uses
asymmetry to create more complex views through the space, and many
designers today have adapted elements of this approach to achieve stylish,
crisp gardens. Others have taken a more relaxed approach, creating their
own set of rules and evolving new ways to achieve harmonious designs.

The power of plants Space to play Eclectic influences

Prairie-style planting is The open space and minimal Combining different design
a dramatic way to create planting in this garden elements can create a
naturalistic swathes of offer the flexibility to space that equals more
color over a large area. accommodate many uses. than the sum of its parts.
 EXTERNAL INFLUENCES
Garden styles commonly draw inspiration from cultural or historic reference
points, which give them a particular theme. The aim is to create a stylized
interpretation of reality, rather than an accurate representation. Japanese-
style gardens, for instance, often lack the original philosophical and religious
meaning but are nonetheless atmospheric. Similarly, the traditional cottage
garden is a highly romanticized view of the simpler artisan model.
Broader issues and lifestyle changes have also helped to shape garden design.
The increase in foreign travel has given gardeners a taste for the al fresco life
(as seen in places like the Mediterranean), and for more exotic planting, which
is being used increasingly in city gardens where warm microclimates allow a
broader range of plants to thrive. Meanwhile, concerns about the environment
are driving the use of sustainable materials and gardening for wildlife.

Minimalism updated Ideas explored Leafy mix

Modern materials, strong Garden style takes ideas Plants with colorful and
lines, and understated and inspiration from around attractively shaped leaves
planting give this design the world that can be easily lend a lush, exotic look to
a bold, contemporary edge. adapted and re-created. contemporary designs.
134/135 Choosing a style
GARDEN STYLES EXPLAINED

FUNCTIONAL SPACE
The idea of the working garden has long been a recurrent feature of
garden history, where the focus has involved growing food for the table.
While the current trend for healthy eating has put home produce at the
heart of many gardens once more, the functional requirements of
gardens today are far broader, and reflect individual lifestyles more
closely. Hence, families commonly require space for leisure, play, and
socializing, while other gardeners seek refuge from daily pressures, in a
calm space, ideal for rest and relaxation.

THE WAY AHEAD

As population densities increase, the urban garden is coming under ever
greater pressure, diminishing in size but increasing in value. A century ago,
a 1-acre plot would have been considered quite small, but now people
fill balconies, roof terraces, and postage stamp-sized gardens with vibrant
ideas, creating a new idiom in direct contrast to much larger and expansive
country gardens in which abundant space is the key characteristic.

Cottage dream Wildlife habitats Urban living

Generously filled borders Even small garden ponds Ever-decreasing outdoor
and a haphazard approach and boggy areas provide space is forcing gardeners
to planting are typical of an excellent habitat for a and designers to develop
the cottage garden style. wide range of wildlife. creative new solutions.
 Just as the form and function of gardens are changing, new styles are also
being developed. Cutting-edge gardens often celebrate the man-made,
creating dramatic and sometimes thought-provoking gardens that can
be humorous or whimsical, philosophical and profound, short-lived or
permanent. Designers of these conceptual or non-conformist spaces have
thrown out the rulebooks to make cutting-edge gardens for a future
generation. The cultural connection in many of these designs is strong, with
some offering social commentary or presenting a reflection of modern
society. Other designers mix up styles to create a fusion of the old and new,
perhaps weaving cottage-style planting into a Modernist-inspired ground
plan, or employing modern materials, sculptures, and technology in a
formal, symmetrical layout.
As styles and references merge, so innovative ideas, fresh possibilities,
and new idioms arise. Where once garden style was seen as conservative
and predictable, it has now been rejuvenated and celebrates change. In
addition, new links with architecture and art are being forged, and garden
design is now considered a dynamic and socially relevant discipline.

Formal rules Blue sky thinking Productive patch

A parterre planted with Modern garden designers Attractive vegetables and
box hedging illustrates the are constantly pushing the herbs integrate easily into
symmetry and geometry boundaries to create and most garden styles, even
of the formal garden style. develop new styles. where space is limited.
Formal gardens

Designed as expressions of man’s dominance over nature, the features and natural elements in
formal gardens are contained in an imposed geometry and structure. This idea is rooted in classical
architecture and design, and many of the best examples of this type of garden can be seen in
France and Italy.
A successful formal garden has a balanced design, achieved through symmetry and a clearly
recognizable ground plan or pattern. Organized around a central axis or pathway, formal plans
often focus on a key view through the garden from the house. In larger gardens there may be
space for several axial routes that cross the central path, and sometimes
reach out into the wider landscape. Sculpture, water, or decorative paving
are also used to punctuate the areas where these routes intersect.
The geometry of the formal garden is clear and easily identifiable,
but generous scale and balanced proportions are key considerations.
Rectilinear shapes and forms feature most commonly in this type of garden,
but any regular symmetrical shape can be used, as long as it sits on at least
one axis. Circles, ovals, ellipses, and equilateral triangles are all options.
The materials palette tends to be kept to a minimum, with gravel and
regular paving stones most frequently seen. However, decorative elements,
Dynamic water features
such as cobblestone mosaics or brick designs, are also popular. Water is provide movement.

employed either as a reflective surface or used

for jets and fountains.
Lawns and hedges are key planting features,
the latter helping to define space or views, while
dwarf hedging can be used to edge borders,
create parterres, or form knot gardens.
Pleached trees help to add height, and where
space allows, avenues of trees line paths to
accentuate vistas and draw the eye to a focal
Symmetry around a central axis attracts attention to focal
point in the distance. points—such as a water feature—in a formal garden.
 138/139 Choosing a style
FORMAL GARDENS

What is formal style?

Formal garden design relates directly to the classical architecture of Greece and Italy. Ordered gardens
originally provided a setting for the villas of the wealthy or powerful across Europe, echoing the symmetry of
their grand houses. Known as “power gardening,” it was seen as the ultimate in garden-making, embodying a
sense of control. Although famous formal gardens, such as Versailles, are vast, the basic principles of the style
can be applied to gardens of any size, even tiny urban spaces, where ordered, balanced designs work very well.
Symmetry about a central axis is crucial to emphasize the focus of the garden. Planting and construction
are geometric and simple, with lawn, clipped hedges, and avenues forcing planting into order, and
balustrades, steps, terraces, and wide gravel pathways all conspiring to unify the garden space.

Formal gardens in detail

Formality demands an axis, or central line, which is the basis of
the garden plan. This could be a pathway or lawn, or even a central
planting bed. Generally, the axis focuses on a dominant feature,
such as a sculpture, statue, or ornament.
If space allows, cross-axes can be created; some larger gardens
have multiple axial routes that create views along and across the
garden. A dramatic sense of scale and proportion is essential as
planting and paving are often kept simple—one reason why many
modernists and minimalists appreciate this style.
The space should initially be divided into halves or quarters. Larger
gardens can be partitioned further, but divisions should be as sizeable
as possible to maximize the impact of long vistas, or the repetition of
topiary or trees. Parterres, water pools, and expanses of lawn are
typical of classical formality; examples by contemporary designers
may also feature decorative borders that soften the garden’s structure.

Modern twist
Designer Charlie Albone
puts a modern spin on
traditional formal style
in this elegant garden.
A symmetrical floor plan
is defined with layers
of clipped box, while
cottage-style planting
Rills edge softens the rigid lines.
the paving Pleached hornbeams
and lawn are a nod to the classic
avenues of trees seen in
formal country gardens,
while the contemporary
furniture and pavilion, and
Pleached corten steel rills, bring the
hornbeams design up-to-date.
add height
and structure

Central lawn

Clipped box
walls define
Cottage-style the symmetry
planting softens
the formality

Central axis
 DESIGN INFLUENCES
Although some of the earliest Islamic perspectives, level changes, and reflective
gardens were formal in layout, often pools of both gardens are typical of Le
divided by rills into quarters, classical Nôtre’s approach to design, which won
and Renaissance influences have come to him the affection of the King.
define this style. The doyen of the formal Hedges, vast lawns, water features,
garden is André Le Nôtre, one of a long and parterres of box and cut turf, often
line of gardeners turned designers who decorated with colored gravel, as seen
found fame in France under the reign in Le Nôtre’s work, set the tone for all
of Louis XIV. The gardens he designed formal gardens that followed, with views
at Versailles and Vaux le Vicomte are and perspectives manipulated for the
Vaux le Vicomte by André Le Nôtre. his most famous legacies. The false best theatrical effect.

Key design elements

1 Symmetry
The symmetrical
balance of a formal design
can be achieved at any
scale. Here, an olive tree
and a parterre form a
focal point in a circle that
intersects the pebbled and
paved central path.

2 Statuary
Gods and mythological
creatures were the original
subjects of statuary in
formal gardens. In modern
designs, contemporary
figurative subjects and
abstract works function
well as focal points.

3 Topiary
Clipped hedging,
typically box or yew for
evergreen structure, is used
to define space. Topiary
provides architectural
definition, and dwarf box
hedges are used to form
patterns in parterres.

4 Ornament
Large, ornate urns,
often on plinths or
balustrades, provide focal
points or punctuation.
Modern formal gardens
use the same technique,
although elaborate
decoration is reduced.

5 Natural stone
Paving provides an
architectural element for
pathways and terraces.
Sawn and honed natural
stone slabs can create
regular patterns, or they
can be used to edge lawns
and gravel paths.
140/141 Choosing a style
FORMAL GARDENS

Interpreting the style

Although the rules of formality are simple and clear, it is still a
remarkably versatile style. The overall layout can be completely
symmetrical and axial, or you can select just a few formal
elements. One axis can be more dominant than another, for
example, or a series of balanced, rectangular beds can be veiled
by soft, romantic planting. You can also experiment with the style
and opt for a traditional look or bring formality right up to date.

△△ Contrasting elements
An overflowing bowl creates a focus at the center of this
parterre in an enclosed corner of the Alhambra in Spain,
bringing a dynamic quality to the formal planting.
△ Contemporary order
A simple rectangular lawn, elegant pleached hornbeams,
and a pale paved surface create restrained formality.
The three plinths and subtle lighting lend focus.
△▷ Urban formality
Limestone paving creates a crisp, formal edge to this
lawn, offering clear definition. Pleached lime trees
provide increased privacy in this urban space.
▷ Ornamental hedging
A parterre-style panel of box cartouches makes a
decorative statement of light, shade, and texture. The
pattern will read particularly well from the first floor.
“Set the geometric
rules of formality,
then decide which
ones to break”

◁◁ Aquatic symmetry
Pools and a connecting rill form the focus of this formal
arrangement, with the sculpture and fountain on the
central axis. The planting is then arranged symmetrically.

◁ Sculpted greenery
Here, the tightly clipped topiary supports the axial layout.
The mossy path itself breaks the rigid formality, with lawn
softening the edges of the rustic paving slabs.

▽◁ Softer planting
Steel edging evokes a sense of formality in this grid-
pattern garden, and is in stark contrast to the soft, light-
catching grasses and perennials that fill the borders.

GARDENS TO VISIT
VAUX LE VICOMTE, Seine-et-Marne, France
Designed by Le Nôtre using false perspectives
and axial layout.
vaux-le-vicomte.com

VERSAILLES, Yvelines, France

André Le Nôtre’s best-known garden.
chateauversailles.fr

VILLA GAMBERAIA, Settignano, Italy

Garden of allées and formal compartments
that radiate around the house.
villagamberaia.com

ALHAMBRA & GENERALIFE,

Granada, Spain
Evidence of the Islamic influence on formal
design in Europe, with water as a central theme.
alhambra.org

DUMBARTON OAKS, Washington DC, US

Originally designed as a series of formal spaces
and vistas, but with some naturalistic planting.
doaks.org
142/143 Choosing a style
FORMAL GARDENS

CASE STUDY

BALANCED VIEWS Simple shapes

Laid out on a symmetrical floor
Italian influences
Inspired by Italian Renaissance
plan, the garden features a central gardens, the terrace features
A symphony of classic formal style and contemporary
rectangular lawn flanked by paths a water wall made from gray-
features, this elegant garden is orderly and calming, and pebble-shaped boxwood green marble and travertine
providing beautiful views from the terrace over lawns, (Buxus) topiaries. A smaller limestone. The soothing sound
terrace on the right breaks the of gently flowing water sets
topiary, fruit, and flowers, while the gentle sound and formal pattern, but identical the mood, bringing a sense
twinkling reflections of a water wall soothe the spirits. stone links the two areas. of calm to this formal space.
 Designers Tommaso del Buono and Paul Gazerwitz
Show RHS Chelsea Flower Show
Award Gold Medal

Citrus scents Flower forms Green corridors

The garden includes many To temper all the straight lines An avenue of pleached lime
Mediterranean influences, and geometric forms, the trees (Tilia x europaea ‘Pallida’)
such as the lemon trees in designers have included areas have been trained to form an
large terra-cotta pots that of soft planting that feature a elegant green canopy. Working
flank the terrace on both range of herbs, perennials, and in perfect harmony with the
sides, augmenting the design grasses, including Stipa gigantea, other clipped forms, they also
with their scented flowers Gladiolus byzantinus, and Anchusa have a practical use in the shade
and bright fruits. azurea ‘Loddon Royalist’. they provide to the terrace.
144/145 Choosing a style
FORMAL GARDENS

Formal garden plans

Although formal design follows specific rules, there is, as these three gardens show, plenty of scope for
interpretation. Here, the designers Charlotte Rowe, who usually produces more contemporary works,
and George Carter have both merged formal lines with classical details, yet two very different gardens
have emerged. At Port Lympne, the early 20th century layout proves that formal designs can be timeless.

Classic lines
In this small space, designed by Charlotte Rowe, the simplicity of
design works well: the beds retain a mix of just a few species. The
Yorkstone
urn and Ligustrum topiary add height and a sense of scale to the design, paving, edged
while the Hydrangea provides an elegant focus to the central axis. with brick

Key ingredients detailing on the house façade and

1 Ligustrum jonandrum evergreen screening for privacy, but
2 Hydrangea macrophylla kept the overall design simple and
understated.”
3 Artemisia ‘Powis Castle’ “I’m usually influenced by Luis Terra-cotta urn
4 Geranium sanguineum Barragán and Dan Kiley, so it was
interesting to retain a sense of precision
Charlotte says: in such a classical format. I think of
“My design for this front garden in hard materials as the bone structure
London had to fit in with the regulations of the garden, which the planting can Box-edged beds
of the local conservation area. I used soften and enhance.”
Yorkstone and bricks to match similar
Statement piece
This eye-catching chessboard
at Port Lympne in southeast
England, UK is one of a sequence Summer chessboard of
Begonia and Verbena
of formal “rooms” created in the
1920s by Philip Tilden for Sir
Philip Sassoon, MP. Former head
of gardens, Jeremy Edmond
managed the site for many years.
Key ingredients
1 Taxus baccata
2 Verbena venosa
3 Begonia semperflorens

Jeremy says:
“This garden is one of a pair—the
other, the Striped Garden, is on the
other side of the main walkway. This
one was designed to be looked at from
the terrace above, and the pattern of
lawn and bedding reads well from this
position. We use annual bedding to add
color—usually pansies and polyanthus
in winter, and Begonia and Verbena in
summer. The changing view within the Grid of single bricks,
garden is its most majestic feature. laid to divide the
Maintenance is difficult, but the graphic planting, dates from
the garden’s inception
impact makes it worthwhile.”
Garden enclosed
within yew hedge

Below ground James Gibbs-

influenced
The basement garden of this Classical door Adjustable-height
frame bubble jets
London mews house, designed
by George Carter, is meant to
be viewed from above. The
minimal planting is architectural,
to complement the property’s
classical focal points, such as the ½ in (12 mm)
door frame at the end of the plot. Cotswold
chippings
Key ingredients
1 Cupressus arizonica var. arizonica
2 Portland stone paving
3 Cyclamen coum subsp. coum Portland
paving
f. albissimum
4 Hebe ‘Pewter Dome’
Custom
5 Festuca glauca cast-iron
stairs with
George says: wrought-iron
“This is typical of my work—especially detailing
in smaller London spaces, where I think
simplicity and order help give a sense of
spaciousness. The garden was quite
shaded, which led to the use of water to
add sparkle and movement. The design
was influenced by the work of the
18th-century architect James Gibbs—
this is reflected in the door frame on the
boundary wall. After dark, lighting creates
the effect of an additional room.”
Cottage gardens

Celebrated for their abundant planting and apparent confusion, cottage gardens are traditionally
simple and regular in layout, with a central path to the main door and rectangular beds on either
side. They were first used as productive spaces in rural locations, created to supplement the diet of
the peasant, with the focus on food rather than flowers.
The cottage garden idyll that came to the fore in the late 19th century was, in fact, largely an
urban invention—a reaction to the unrelenting cityscape, where people were more concerned
with color and scent than growing produce. Traditional
cottage gardens were also championed by the famous
garden designer Gertrude Jekyll, who refined them to form
the basis of her Arts and Crafts planting schemes, which we
now regard as typical of this style.
The scale of cottage gardens is generally intimate,
sometimes even restrictive to movement, as dense planting is
allowed to spill across pathways. Self-seeding is encouraged,
as are plants that can colonize gaps in paving. Hedges are
frequently used to divide the garden into a series of
enclosed spaces with different planting designs and
atmospheres. The combination of soft and riotous planting
Jewel-like aubretia cascades over
with formal clipped hedges and decorative topiary results in a weathered stone wall.

one of the most successful contrasts in this design style. Away

from the house, in larger yards, there may be room for meadow
planting and native hedges that create a wilder impression.
The most appropriate hard materials for use in cottage gardens are
natural stone or brick, with weathered or rescued materials favored for their
aged and subtle appearance. Gravel is also used for pathways, partly
because it allows easy self-seeding, and simple post-and-rail or picket
fences also suit this naturalistic design style.
While many cottage gardens adhere to simple patterns, others are more
free-flowing, with sinuous pathways carving up the space, although any
geometry is often blurred by the abundant planting and only revealed in
Decorative produce
winter when it dies down. in a working garden.
148/149 Choosing a style
COTTAGE GARDENS

What is cottage style?

The romance of the cottage garden wins the hearts of
designers across the world. This is mainly due to the
dominant force of the planting, profusion of color, and
sheer variety of species used in this quintessentially
English style. At its best, a cottage garden uses thematic
or coordinated flower and foliage color within small
compartments or “rooms,” as seen to great effect in
the gardens at Sissinghurst or Hidcote Manor in England.

Cottage gardens in detail

The layout of a cottage garden should be simple and geometric, yet
many diverge from this pattern into more idiosyncratic twists and
turns, especially as the design moves further away from the house
where wilder planting dominates. Pathways are often narrow, so
that the plants partially obscure a clear way through. This romantic
planting softens the appearance of a garden, and brings you into close
contact with scent, foliage textures, and spectacular blazes of color.
The paved areas are constructed from small-scale units, such as
brick, gravel, or cobblestones, which allow mosses, lichens, or
creeping plants to colonize the joints and surfaces. Simple seats, old
well heads, tanks, pumps, and local “found” materials make interesting
focal points and create a serendipitous quality, while arbors or
arches decorate the thresholds between the various garden spaces.
Lawns are used, but it is the planting beds that are considered
most important. Elsewhere in the garden, fruit and vegetable beds
retain the simple geometry of the earliest cottage gardens, with brick
or compacted earth paths providing access to these working borders.

Clipped boxed balls Sundial

Form and color

The geometric order of
Dial Park, Olive Mason’s
garden in Worcestershire,
England can be seen
clearly in the plan,
whereas the generous
and informal planting
(right) obscures and
softens the lines.
Summer color in a garden for all seasons
With its wide range of foliage textures, tumbling climbers, colorful
perennials, and perfumed flowers, Olive Mason’s garden is planted
for year-round interest. In spring, green and white foliage prevails,
Geometric box interspersed with subtle drifts of daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, and
hedging
forget-me-nots. The colors intensify in early summer (above) to
warm pinks and mauves, with roses, geraniums, delphiniums,
clematis, and centaureas. As summer progresses into fall, the
palette deepens to the cerise, deep blues, and purples of asters,
phlox, dahlias, and aconites, and in winter everything is cut back
Colorful mixed
Brick paths to reveal the simple pattern of the box hedges, enhanced by a
planting bark mulch spread over the bare beds.
 Key design elements

1 Profuse planting
Cottage gardens
require intensive
maintenance due to the
complex planting. The art
lies in the skilful
association of planting
partners, and the selective
editing of species that
become too dominant.

2 Rustic furniture
The patina of
timber garden furniture
changes organically over
time; plants can be
encouraged to weave
through it to create an
impression of apparently
natural, but actually
cultivated, recolonization.

3 Rose arbors
These make pretty
shelters for seating, and
can also be used to link
different areas. Here the
intense color and delicate
scent of a pink rose help
to awaken the senses on a
walk through the garden.

4 Weathered paths
Brick, stone, and
gravel pathways provide
textured surfaces as a foil
to the complex planting
on either side, allowing
plants to seed and soften
the boundary between
path and border.

5 Vegetables and
herbs
Productive borders are
often seen in cottage
gardens, with cut flowers
and herbs used in
association. This attractive
mix softens the functional
appearance of these areas,
and may also help to
control pests.

DESIGN INFLUENCES
The modern interpretation of the cottage Mediterranean travels and color theories
garden is based to a great extent upon developed during her fine art training.
the work of Gertrude Jekyll and her Together, Jekyll and Lutyens designed
architect partner, Edwin Lutyens. They and planted enormous borders in a
created many outstanding designs in the luxuriant and romantic style, which
1890s under the auspices of the Arts and brought timeless cottage-garden qualities
Crafts Movement. Jekyll used local to the estates of some of the wealthiest
cottage gardens in England as the Edwardian families. Their approach set
inspiration for her planting schemes, the agenda for the English garden for
Munstead Wood designed by Gertrude Jekyll. teamed with elements from her the next century.
150/151 Choosing a style
COTTAGE GARDENS

Interpreting the style

A profusion of plants disguises the underlying geometry
of this garden style. Plan simple-shaped beds and make
sure they can accommodate a good depth of planting.
The repetition of plants, color themes, and hedging can
bring some order to the borders, which are primarily
created for variety and complexity.

△△ Sunshine and flowers △ Corner for reflection

The late-summer colors of dahlias and A old rustic seat, surrounded by soft
cosmos ramble through shrubs, splashing drifts of pink perennials and a delicate
their warm tints close to the incidental white rambling rose, provides a quiet
seat and almost smothering the path. place for rest and contemplation.

△ Decorative food crops ▷ Underlying framework

Purple-flowered lavender echoes the vivid The rectangular beds and pathways can
cabbage leaves in this garden. The lively just about be seen beneath the warm-toned
mix of produce and ornamental planting perennials and the searing carmine spikes
is typical of the cottage garden style. of Lythrum virgatum ‘The Rocket’.
 “A sense of discovery,
curiosity, and mystery is
central to the cottage
garden experience”

GARDENS TO VISIT
EAST LAMBROOK MANOR, Somerset, UK
A cottage garden for modern times, planted
by Margery Fish. eastlambrook.com

HIDCOTE MANOR, Gloucestershire, UK

Celebrated Arts & Crafts masterpiece. △△ Restricted palette
The cottage garden is reinterpreted by the design company
nationaltrust.org.uk/hidcote Oehme, van Sweden in this border in Virginia, where
shrubs and perennials are intricately woven together.
MUNSTEAD WOOD, Surrey, UK
Gertrude Jekyll’s house and garden. △◁ Framing vistas and views
munsteadwood.org.uk This rose-covered pergola provides height and enclosure,
as well as rich color and perfume. Use various structures
to define the entrances linking different spaces.
SISSINGHURST CASTLE GARDEN Kent, UK
Vita Sackville-West’s 20th-century garden. △ Simple restraint
nationaltrust.org.uk/sissinghurst-castle- Low box hedging contains the unstructured border planting
garden of poppies, salvia, and foxgloves; a technique appropriate
to front yards, where greater order may be required.
152/153 Choosing a style
COTTAGE GARDENS

CASE STUDY

FLOWERING GLORY Woodland edge

The twining wisteria and river
Water for wildlife
Water often plays a part in
birch, Betula nigra, with its cottage gardens, whether half
Cottage gardens are all about the plants, shown in
peeling shaggy bark, punctuate barrel, pond, or natural pool
this contemporary design, which blends a profusion the garden space with their (as here). As well as offering a
of blooms in a medley of colors and forms, while structural presence, rising relaxing space to swim, the water
up above a sea of colorful in a natural pool is cleansed by
the natural tones of the timber decking and stone perennial plants, edible herbs, a range of plants that attract
sculpture ensure the plants are never upstaged. and dainty annuals. many forms of wildlife.
 Designer Jo Thompson
Show RHS Chelsea Flower Show
Award Silver-gilt Medal

Organized chaos Escape to nature Leafy seclusion

The overall look of a cottage A timber-framed, two-story Boundary edges are blurred by a
garden is never too contrived. retreat, with nods to country wall of trees and shrubs planted
Here, the dense, slightly vernacular style, is reached via around the perimeter, which also
unruly planting scheme and a path of raised decking through helps to shelter the garden and
open spaces designed for lush planting and over water, create a private space. Native
relaxation are perfectly allowing visitors the fantasy of trees, such as the sugar maple,
balanced to create a sense escaping to a rural idyll that is provide food and habitats for
of natural abundance. the essence of cottage design. birds, insects, and other wildlife.
154/155 Choosing a style
COTTAGE GARDENS

Cottage garden plans

Abundant planting and a mass of flower forms, textures, and colors define a cottage garden, with
the hard landscaping—usually narrow paths of stone, brick, or gravel—taking a back seat. In the design
by Gabriella Pape and Isabelle Van Groeningen, the lively soft planting comes in many colors, while
Jinny Blom has opted to celebrate bright pinks and rich reds in a limited, warm palette.

Sea of plants and flowers The step risers

are made from
This garden was designed by Gabriella Pape and Isabelle Van Groeningen cut Italian
for the RHS Chelsea Flower Show as an homage to Karl Foerster, Acer palmatum
porphyry stone
a great nurseryman who experimented with perennial plants. It creates ‘Fireglow’
the sensation of swimming through the foliage and flowers. Blocks of Italian
porphyry stone
Key ingredients Isabelle says:
1 Digitalis purpurea ‘Alba’ “This layout was based on Karl Foerster’s
2 Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’ own garden in Potsdam, Germany, so it’s
not typical of our work. The planting, Bench
3 Hosta ‘Sum and Substance’
however, is. Influenced by the English style,
4 Veronica ‘Shirley Blue’ it incorporates colorful matrix planting,
5 Paeonia lactiflora ‘Duchesse and drifts of plants and flowers are
de Nemours’ reminiscent of Edwardian woodland gardens.
Breedon
6 Aquilegia chrysantha These themes recur a lot in our work.” gravel
7 Hosta ‘Royal Standard’ “Generally, our influences are varied
and we often bounce ideas off each other
8 Achillea ‘Moonshine’
to develop design solutions. English
garden designers, such as Vita Sackville-
West, Geoffrey Jellicoe, and Charles
Wade, are a major influence. We also like
to work with existing elements and create
the garden and planting around them.”
Restrained palette
Modernist treatments, such as simple, clean paving, provide a cool
contrast to the hot-hued palette of plants that tumble and explode
around this garden by Jinny Blom. In true cottage style, the seemingly
haphazard, densely packed planting pockets soften and relax the
more ordered layout. The use of gravel allows plants to self-seed,
creating additional random patterns of spontaneous growth. Grasses,
seedheads, and bulbs create veils of foliage and texture.
Key ingredients a young family, and the design needed White
limestone
1 Betula nigra to be robust, allowing the children to bench top
2 Akebia quinata play freely.”
“We agreed a strategy of hard-
3 Geranium PATRICIA wearing, virtually indestructible
4 Allium sphaerocephalon materials that would be softened with Crushed
5 Verbena bonariensis limestone
romantic planting. This seems to have gravel
6 Panicum virgatum ‘Heavy Metal’ paid off, as the garden has matured well.
We have recently added yew hedging in
Jinny says: order to create a visual anchor in winter.”
“This view is just one part of a “I am inspired by many different White
multi-leveled garden—the different things, but, on this occasion, the work of limestone
parts of which are connected by Italian architect Carlo Scarpa was very paving
walkways and steps, so that, overall, important in creating the design—in
the design flows nicely. The clients were terms of flow and visual stimuli.”
Mediterranean gardens

Two garden types are associated with the Mediterranean region: informal and formal. Informal
gardens tend to feature gravel, with planting arranged in structural groups or masses. This look is
inspired by the shrubby vegetation (maquis) of the south of France or the more arid regions of
southern Italy and Spain. Olives, citrus fruits, vines, lavender, and rosemary thrive in these conditions,
as do succulents and grasses, while colors tend to be muted, incorporating soft sage-gray greens
and purple-blues. Gravel is used between areas of planting and to
create pathways. Drifts of plants appear to emerge spontaneously
in the gravel, perhaps punctuated by arrangements of rocks and
boulders. Sometimes a dry stream bed is re-created with clusters of
informally arranged, drought-resistant plants.
For more intimate and often urban spaces, terra-cotta instantly
evokes the style, supplemented by mosaic tiles or features to add
splashes of color. Walls are often white-washed, creating clear
backdrops for shadows, but where paint is used, hues are often
bold. Rustic containers introduce colorful planting at key points,
and may be used as focal features or arranged in informal groups
of different sizes.
The formal gardens of the Mediterranean tend to utilize water
Fleshy succulents are ideally suited to
and stone, often with clipped hedges and specimen trees such a warm, dry site.

as tall, slender cypresses. In some of

the gardens of Spain and southern
Italy there is a clear Moorish
influence, as seen in the courtyards
and water features of Spain’s
Generalife and the Alhambra.
Decorative parterre planting is also
typical of the formal style, with plants
selected for foliage rather than flower
color, and densely planted trees
such as Quercus ilex (holm oak)
providing cool shade. Typical Mediterranean courtyards offer seating areas in shade.
158/159 Choosing a style
MEDITERRANEAN GARDENS

What is Mediterranean style?

The popularity of the Mediterranean as a holiday destination has created a thirst for gardens that reflect this
region. The mild winters and warm, dry summers favor specific groups of plants, often hardy and low-
growing, with olive trees, vines, lavender, various herbs, and many succulents combining to produce a
distinctive style. These plants are designed to look natural, against a background of textured surfaces such as
gravel and scree. Trees provide dappled shade, and water (a precious resource) is used sparingly, if at all.
Any outdoor space can reflect a Mediterranean atmosphere, from large, sheltered plots to colorful
courtyards and roof terraces. Across the world, California, South Africa, and parts of Australia and Chile
have a similar climate to southern Europe and make excellent locations for Mediterranean gardens.

Mediterranean style in detail

In Mediterranean gravel gardens, pathways are not defined by
formal paving. Instead, gravel is used across the entire space, serving
as both hard landscaping and a mulch for planted areas. This unifies
the garden, allowing plants to be grouped informally and leaving
smaller areas of paving to provide more stable surfaces for seating.
Pergolas or arbors are used for shade, and when planted with
vines and other climbers enhance the Mediterranean atmosphere,
providing the perfect location for sharing al fresco meals.
Alternatively, plant trees for patterned shade, either in groves
or as individual specimens in key locations.
Water is used to create sound or as a focal point, but, as a precious
resource in these landscapes, it would not normally be seen in the
form of large pools. In courtyard gardens, decorative rills or bubbling
fountains echo the Moorish gardens of Spain and southern Italy.
Colorful tiles and mosaics provide vibrant patterns while planted
terra-cotta pots add splashes of vivid red or pink.

Californian-style Mediterranean garden

In this Californian gravel garden, designer Bernard Trainor has created a low, curved
wall—which doubles as a sinuous seat—close to the house and beneath the shade of
some trees. The wall frames the space while providing a backdrop to the water bowl.

Mixed planting

Patio for
dining

Gravel

House
Informal curved
wall-cum-seat
Water feature
produces
reflections
and sound
Cool, shady tree
 DESIGN INFLUENCES
Key design elements
The dry landscapes of the Mediterranean
with their soft colors have influenced 1 Shady seating
areas
In these sun-drenched
many garden-makers. Gertrude Jekyll
included Mediterranean species in her gardens, shade is key, and
can be provided by trees
planting schemes, mixed with more planted as individuals or
familiar border plants. In the late 20th in groups. Timber
century, Beth Chatto created dry gravel pergolas and arbors with
gardens inspired by plants of the maquis climbers also provide a
(Mediterranean scrubland), and in shady setting for
France designer Michel Semini took outdoor dining.

2
similar inspiration from maquis-style Gravel floor
planting. Today, James Basson leads Limestone forms
Garden by Michel Semini, southern France. the way in Provençal garden design. the typical gravel of the
Mediterranean, creating
a light, textured surface
through which plants can
grow. Larger boulders
can be used as focal
points. Landscape fabric
below suppresses weeds.

3 Rills and pools

Water is often
confined to rills in more
formal gardens, and used
to refresh the air or to
mark spatial divisions. In
gravel gardens, overflowing
containers or water bowls
are used for reflections
and gentle sound.

4 Succulents and
silver foliage
Many species have
adapted to drought with
fine, silver, or fleshy
foliage. Rosemary and
lavender are typical, with
Euphorbia, Agave, Yucca,
Bergenia, and Genista
providing suitable
associations.

5 Terra-cotta pots
and tiles
The Mediterranean
is famous for the
terra-cotta pots used in
gardens, as focal points
or as planted containers.
Old olive oil pots make
sculptural features. Aim
for larger- sized pots
where possible.

6 Mosaic features
Floor surfaces in
courtyards (or on roof
terraces) are created
from tiny, colored
cobbles laid out in
intricate patterns.
Glazed and brightly
colored tiles are also
often used to decorate
walls and grottoes.
160/161 Choosing a style
MEDITERRANEAN GARDENS

Interpreting the style

This style is often typified by the materials and planting. Gravel
gardens re-create dry, sun-baked landscapes, using rustic limestone
or terra-cotta for pattern and decoration, while planting is informal
and drought-tolerant. Formal gardens are often defined by cypress
or palm avenues, with arbors for shade. Courtyards are often
decorated with glazed tiles, and may also be filled with leafy
plants to create an oasis with water as a focal point.

△▷ Avenue of cypress trees

Tall, slim, elegant cypress trees create a formal
avenue to frame this walkway, highlighting the gazebo
as a shady focal point in this ordered garden.

△ Provençal landscape
The wide joints in the pale limestone paths create
patterns and allow thymes to colonize. Lavender-
blues are virtually the only flower colors.

◁ Splashes of color
Brilliant color dominates this sun-filled space, the
painted wall clashing with the bougainvillea overhead,
which offers some shade for outdoor dining.

▷ Deceptively simple
The quiet simplicity of this gravel garden is emphasized
by the decorative water feature, which reflects
dappled light from the vast tree canopy overhead.
◁ Bubble fountain
A tall terra-cotta pot is
lined and used as a bubble
“Create contrasts of sun
fountain, perfect for a
terrace feature. Water
circulates from a reservoir
concealed below.
and shade, bold texture,
and sizzling color”
▽ Moorish look
In this Moroccan courtyard,
lush planting forms a
backdrop to the elegant
tiles and raised water bowl.

△ Courtyard calm
Stone and gravel create flexible and functional surfaces
in this small urban space, with large pots, architectural
foliage plants, and seat cushions providing the main drama.

◁ Foliage garden
Simple color-washed rendered walls provide a
coordinating architectural backdrop to textured planting
and sculpture, reflected in turn in the pool alongside.

GARDENS TO VISIT
ALHAMBRA, Granada, Spain
Islamic and Renaissance influences combine
with water, planted terraces, and courtyards.
alhambra.org

BARCELONA BOTANIC GARDEN, Spain

Featuring a huge collection of Mediterranean
species from Catalonia and around the world.
museuciencies.cat/visitans/jardi-botanic

JARDIN MAJORELLE, Marrakesh, Morocco

Famed for its planting and deep blue walls.
jardinmajorelle.com

STRYBING ARBORETUM, San Francisco, CA

A wonderful collection of native Californian
and Mediterranean planting.
sfbotanicalgarden.org
162/163 Choosing a style
MEDITERRANEAN GARDENS

CASE STUDY

SUN-KISSED RETREAT Precious water

Water is present in almost
Tapestry of color
The informal planting scheme
every Mediterranean garden, cleverly combines a tapestry of
Mediterranean gardens are famous for their tough
and here the spouts pour into different colors and textures,
yet beautiful drought-tolerant plants, sun-drenched a cool, refreshing rill, adding using heat- and drought-
open spaces, and dancing fountains and water movement and sound to the tolerant perennial plants,
design. The rendered wall links including silvery artemisia,
spouts. Here, these elements are combined in a tonally with the informal stone yarrow, red Dianthus cruentus,
modern update of a traditional courtyard garden. paving that divides the space. and white Centranthus.
 Designer Cleve West
Show RHS Chelsea Flower Show
Award Gold Medal and Best in Show

Cracked terrain Form and shade Ancient origins

The rocky terrain of the The pagoda tree (Sophora Sculpted columns, made
Mediterranean coast is echoed japonica) in the center and from textured concrete and
in the irregular stone paving. yew hedges beyond provide terra-cotta, are included to
Mortar joints between the much-needed shade and natural evoke the ruins of an ancient
stones allow rain to slowly structure to anchor the design. temple. They act like a stage
percolate into the ground, They also help to convey a set, contextualizing the
ensuring that any available sense of enclosure, creating design and giving the garden
moisture is not lost. a private area for relaxation. a feeling of permanence.
164/165 Choosing a style
MEDITERRANEAN GARDENS

Mediterranean garden plans

There are two Mediterranean garden types: naturalistic and wild, and formal. Each of these designs merges
elements of both. Karla Newell’s courtyard is a burst of color set around the rectilinear lines of a Moorish
pool, and Michel Semini’s relaxed garden in southern France features formal hedging. In Acres Wild’s UK
design, the garden is laid out according to a strict grid, and its planting is aromatic and lively.

Moorish design
Colorful tiles and walls add depth and interest to Karla Newell’s own Antique Indian carved
garden. Planting is dense and textured, using palms and large-leafed wooden plinth, topped
with a ceramic pot
architectural species. The pool, kept clear to reveal the lively mosaic,
provides a focal point around which pots and specimens are arranged.
Key ingredients Karla says: Decorative
1 Fuchsia magellanica “My Brighton, UK garden was inspired by pebble inlay
2 Euonymus japonicus ‘Latifolius Spanish and Moroccan courtyards—such
as the Majorelle in Marrakech, in which
Albomarginatus’
intense, painted color is combined with Concrete bricks
3 Acer palmatum var. dissectum carefully detailed spaces. I like crafted
4 Hosta sieboldiana var. elegans elements, so I laid and designed the
5 Arum italicum ‘Pictum’ pattern for the mosaic tiles (based on Antique terra-cotta
6 Pelargonium ‘Vancouver Centennial’ traditional Moroccan designs) myself.” paving blocks
7 Italian glass mosaic “The garden’s not far from the beach, and
enjoys a sheltered microclimate, enabling
8 Lathyrus odoratus
me to introduce a Mediterranean range of
plants. The planting palette is varied and
relatively high maintenance, which suits
me as I have a keen interest in gardening.
The space provides an outdoor room.”
Rustic charm Chalk-stone
Key Mediterranean plants are paving slabs

included in this area (the rear

entrance) of a large Provençal
garden by Michel Semini, with
an olive tree taking center stage
and providing essential shade.
Key ingredients
1 Viburnum tinus
2 Nerium oleander
3 Olea europaea
4 Lavandula stoechas
5 Gravel

Michel says:
“This plot in Provence was once a derelict
sheepfold. It was first cleared and
developed as a garden, but has been
improved and expanded since. The
Alpilles mountains form its backdrop.’’ Chalk-stone ¼–½ in
“I wanted a sense of mystery, and edging (7–12 mm)
to link the planting with the landscape gravel
using green and silvery foliage.’’
“The rustic character of the sheepfold
was a key consideration when choosing
the materials for the garden. I like to
mix the influences of the site, my client’s
needs, and my own ideas, and in this
garden they all came together well.”

Good taste
Debbie Roberts and Ian Smith
of Acres Wild tend to work
with the prevailing conditions
in a garden, and this section of
a steeply sloping, well-drained,
sunny UK plot with panoramic
views lent itself to Mediterranean
herbs. The paving creates an
informal terrace.
Key ingredients
1 Origanum vulgare ‘Aureum’
2 Allium schoenoprasum
3 Santolina chamaecyparissus
4 Terra-cotta paving
5 Thymus citriodorus
‘Bertram Anderson’ Painted Earthenware
wooden urn
Debbie says: bench Brick
“The clients wanted their garden edging
Terra-cotta
divided into intimate, sheltered ‘rooms’ paving
and they helped to style these, although
it was important to create the right
microclimates first. This space, close to
the kitchen and with dry soil, made
Mediterranean herb-planting appropriate.
But it was also a space that people
walked through to access the rest of
the garden, so had to look good.”
Modernist gardens

Asymmetry is key to Modernist designs, which are also characterized by free-flowing space and the
play of light and shade. These gardens are often “pared down” spaces, using quality materials,
spatial relationships, and clever styling to succeed.
In many Modernist gardens, one or two views may be emphasized, but the partial enclosure of
space within walls or hedges means that they are open to personal interpretation, as the visitor is
not forced by the design to experience them in just one way. Sharp lines reinforce the contrast
between horizontals and verticals, and water is used architecturally, often as a reflective surface.
The material palette is minimal—smooth rendered concrete is often used for paving and walls,
while limestone or slate, with little or no detailing, are other good options for floors. Designers also
prefer large slabs that minimize joints and create clean, uninterrupted surfaces.
Planting is restricted too, with many Modernist gardens featuring only trees, hedges, and lawn,
punctuated by key architectural specimens.
The geometry of Modernism tends to be rectilinear and emphasizes the horizontal line, although
there are examples of garden designs in this style that are based on
circles or ovals. Plans are frequently created on grids that relate the
house to the garden, helping to blur the distinction between the
interior and exterior spaces.
The Modernist Movement was originally associated with the
Bauhaus School of the 1920s and ’30s, which embraced new
technologies and proclaimed that form should follow function.
“Green” architecture in a
However, it was not until after World War II that it found favor modern courtyard garden.

among some landscape

designers, who reacted against
the old schools of garden design,
and created outdoor spaces that
were functional and adapted to
human, rather than plants’, needs.
Modernism continues to influence
outdoor space, with some
designers combining a broader
planting palette, including
perennials or wildflowers, with
crisp, high-quality landscaping. A tranquil infinity pool reflects a unified environment.
168/169 Choosing a style
MODERNIST GARDENS

What is Modernist style?

The creation, definition, and celebration of space is crucial to the success of Modernist gardens.
Their primary emphasis is leisure and the enjoyment of life outdoors, with planting frequently used
as an architectural element. Clipped hedges, specimen trees, and large blocks of planting provide
simple, sculptural surfaces or screens, which complement the horizontal expanses of timber,
stone, concrete, or water. From the original functional focus of Bauhaus, the Modernist approach
flourished in the U.S., especially in California where the climate encouraged the use of the garden
as an outdoor room. The architectural philosophy of Modernism, which views planting as only
one element of the whole composition and not the principal reason for the garden’s creation,
has led to the development of many beautiful, elegant spaces.

Modernist style in detail

Crisp and clean, Modernist designs suit gardens of any size, and can
provide an antidote to crowded cities and hectic lifestyles. Relying
on scale and proportion to create drama in the absence of decorative
embellishments, these gardens focus on open, uncluttered spaces
that offer the perfect setting for outdoor living.
Most Modernist gardens are based on a geometric layout, with the
horizontal lines of rectangles providing a sense of movement. These
dynamic lines contrast with the verticals of trees, hedges, or walls,
and slice through space to unite different sections of the garden.
Materials are selected for their surface qualities—decking,
polished concrete, limestone, and gravel produce expansive surfaces,
often punctuated by reflective water or specimen trees, and this
honest use of materials requires stunning high-quality finishes and
architectural precision. Fine lawns, clipped hedges, and simple
planting are typical of most Modernist 20th-century gardens, but
contemporary designers sometimes include a more complex palette.

Uplighters Hardwood decking

Inside out
Here the main terrace of
Casa Mirindiba in Brazil
(right), designed by
Marcio Kogan, extends
into the garden to create
a sheltered space, part
interior and part exterior
in character. The long,
narrow swimming pool
reflects the stone wall, and
lighting picks out surfaces
and tree canopies to
create interest after dark.

Reflective
Minimalist swimming pool,
tree planting or “lap” pool
 DESIGN INFLUENCES
Celebrated as the founder of concrete paving and decks. Into
Modernist garden design, Thomas this regular pattern Church wove
Church thought that gardens were sweeping curves to create the
primarily for people and should reflect swimming pool (left) and lawns,
their owners’ lifestyle and needs. echoing the winding river in the salt
Many of Church’s theories are marshes below, while existing oaks
explored in his 1955 book, Gardens were retained to frame the view.
are for People, and in his iconic The simplicity and elegance of
Modernist garden, El Novillero in the materials, and the overall
California, designed in 1948. geometry, result in a composition
The garden is based on a regular which confirmed Church as one of
grid that relates to the adjacent the greatest landscape architects
Thomas Church’s iconic pool. poolhouse and is defined with of the last century.

Key design elements

1 Asymmetry
Although a central axis
may be used in Modernist
design it is rarely a dominant
feature. Rectangles of lawn,
water, paving, or planting
interlock more intuitively to
create sharply defined but
irregular patterns.

2 Modern materials
The clean lines of steel,
concrete, glass, and timber
emphasize the precision of
the manufacturing process.
Paving joints are minimized,
and subtle lighting is used to
enhance the surfaces.

3 Planting in blocks
The variety of species is
often limited and planted
in large blocks or masses.
Grasses and perennials,
interplanted to catch the
light and create movement,
have revitalized the style.

4 Contemporary
furniture
Modernist garden furniture is
architectural in style. Design
classics, such as the sculptural
Barcelona chair, set the tone
for elegant recliners, simple
tables, and matching
benches (left).

5 Reflective water
Reflective pools create
unruffled surfaces and bring
light into the garden. Modern
technology now allows water
pools to brim or overflow,
maximizing the expanse
and impact of the
reflective surface.
170/171 Choosing a style
MODERNIST GARDENS

Interpreting the style

The manipulation of space is central to Modernism, creating
gardens free from clutter or fuss. This style demands a clearly
defined geometric layout, so that the proportions of the main
features can be appreciated. Keep material and plant palettes
to a minimum, and pay particular attention to the finer details.
Fixings can be hidden to create smooth flowing surfaces.

△ Pool garden
Smooth rendered walls
surround this garden
with a neutral backdrop,
allowing the reflective
water and planting to
take center stage. Decks
overhang the pool to
create an impression of
floating surfaces. Planting
is restricted, but simple
blocks of texture create
the necessary impact.

▷ Bamboo screen
Decking creates a warm,
tactile surface, which is
ideal for city or roof
gardens. Here the planting
is contained within simple
cube or box planters that
screen this private space.

“The play of light and

shadow breathes life into
the Modernist garden”
▽ Complementary colors ▽ Textural composition
Texture, color, and shape combine to create this small Contrasting surfaces of honed limestone, precise
garden. The ochre tones of the brickwork contrast with dry stone walls, and reflective steel-edged water
the warm terra-cotta-rendered surfaces, while clipped create the drama here, softened by the dense
evergreens, grasses, and irises offer natural forms. planting of irises and Stipa beyond.

GARDENS TO VISIT
BURY COURT, Farnham, UK
Includes a grid pattern grass garden by
Christopher Bradley-Hole.
burycourtbarn.com

ST CATHERINE’S COLLEGE, Oxford, UK

Designed by Arne Jacobsen.
stcatz.ox.ac.uk

VILLA NOAILLES, Hyères, France

△ Classic structure Cubist garden designed by Gabriel
The rectangular pool, deck, and path are classic Modernist Guevrekian. villanoailles-hyeres.com
features, complemented here by blocks of dwarf hedging
and an untamed leafy backdrop. ART INSTITUTE GARDENS, Chicago, IL
Designed by Dan Kiley. artic.edu/
◁ Geometrical design
The architecture of this garden space is the dominant garden-overview
theme, with the rectangular pool based on the dimensions
of the picture window. Repeated cordylines arranged along EL NOVILLERO, Sonoma, CA
the balcony above create a sculptural splash. Thomas Church’s iconic Modernist garden.
gardenvisit.com/gardens/el_novillero_
garden
172/173 Choosing a style
MODERNIST GARDENS

CASE STUDY

BUILDING BLOCKS Visual play

Contrasts of texture and
Ordered space
The space in the garden is set
form are used to great effect out in rectilinear blocks of
The simple, clean lines of this garden betray an
in the design. Smooth paving, paving, planting, and water. Some
exacting design that has modern, contemporary a reflective water feature lined of the areas are open, while
detailing at its heart. Crisp blocks of planting, paving, with flat pebbles, trim beech others are enclosed, hiding
hedging, and multistemmed and then revealing aspects of
and water are set out on an assymetrical floor plan, Osmanthus trees, conspire to the design as the visitor walks
reflecting Modernist design principles. create bold visual effects. through the different spaces.
 Designer Marcus Barnett
Show RHS Chelsea Flower Show
Award Gold Medal

Asymmetrical plan Floral contrasts Clear colors

The stone wall panels were The different flower shapes The color palette
inspired by a Piet Mondrian provide refined contrasts and shows a typically
painting. Combining calm, clean accents. The yellow daisy-like Modernist restraint.
lines and strict geometry with an flowers of Doronicum stand tall Shades of green
asymmetrical plan, they perfectly above tiny Euphorbia polychroma predominate, allowing
represent principles typical of bracts, and contrast in color the primary colors
Modernist design and are brought and form with red tulips and of red, blue, and yellow
strikingly to life in this garden. blue cornflowers. to shine through.
174/175 Choosing a style
MODERNIST GARDENS

Modernist garden plans

The Modernist garden has a simple, geometric layout and a balanced design, with the emphasis on sculptural
planting and quality materials. The three designs here are perfect examples of gardens that embrace these
principles. The planting schemes are simple and bold, allowing space and material texture to be the focus,
and they all exemplify 20th-century Modernist architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe’s maxim: “Less is more.”

“Floating”
Maximizing space fire cowl

Planting is restricted in this elegant garden by Vladimir Djurovic,

where surface and texture are the highlights. The clever lighting
design draws attention to the low bench seats made from the same
material as the paving, and to the apparently floating fire cowl, Spot
which becomes a giant focal point for the terrace. lighting

Key ingredients
1 Red cedarwood table residence, and the garden needed to
2 Acer palmatum reflect this—with spaces for cooking and
dining, relaxing, entertaining large groups
3 Lighting of people, and so on.”
4 Natural stone-honed finish “The restricted topography and the
fact that the house is arranged on split
Vladimir says: levels also made the connection and
“This garden was developed as a vacation sequencing of space more difficult.” Repeated
grass
retreat. The space available for the garden “The result is typical of my work—I aim grooves give
was quite restricted, and a major part of to produce memorable spaces, no matter the garden
the design process was dedicated to what their scale. I am inspired by nature rhythm
creating a sense or illusion of space.” and meaningful human intervention, and
“The brief was quite demanding: the I like to feel that my work brings people
client loves to live outdoors when in closer to the natural world.”
Grid lock
The owners of this property
asked Andrew Wilson for a
spacious design with a semi-
industrial quality, to complement Color-
a new, polished, dark-green pigmented,
concrete
fiberglass house extension with rendered
walls
long curtain walls made of glass.
Key ingredients
1 Betula pendula
2 Stipa gigantea
Granite
3 Deschampsia cespitosa aggregate
‘Bronzeschleier’ concrete
4 Yucca aloifolia coping
5 Ligustrum delavayanum

Andrew says:
Colored,
“The long, low roof of the new building poured
extension was echoed in the horizontals concrete
of the paving, low walls, and steps. The paving
trees, mainly pine and birch, provide
towering verticals that produce the
classic contrast central to most
Modernist compositions.”
“The garden is paved in colored,
poured concrete that appears to float
out across a reflecting infinity-edge pool.
Darker rendered walls provide subtle
screening and a backdrop for uplighting
to create an ambient glow after dark.”

Room outside
Created by Wynniatt-Husey
Clarke, this London garden
was commissioned to complete
renovations to the client’s house.
Key ingredients
1 Hardwood panel fencing
2 Carpinus betulus
3 ‘Floating’ cantilevered
hardwood bench
4 Self-binding crushed slate particles
5 Zantedeschia aethiopica
‘Crowborough’

Patrick Clarke says:

“The garden emerged from a close
cooperation between the architect, client,
Terrazzo patio
and garden designer. More than anything, Rendered blockwork
it reflects a clear ambition to see the “blade” wall
building and garden as a single entity.” Pleached Carpinus
“The rendered ‘blade’ wall, color- (hornbeam)
matched to the interior finish, gives
the impression that the back wall of the
house has been moved to the end of
the garden. The threshold between inside
and out is seamless, with the same paving
used for both, and a frameless door
creating minimal intrusion. Asymmetry
is used as a way of creating a dynamic
quality within the garden as one moves
through the space.”
Japanese gardens

The Japanese garden is often perceived in the West as a single garden style, when in fact there are
many different approaches and philosophies, some of which are based on traditional rituals or have
spiritual meaning. These diverse design theories make a definitive translation of this style difficult.
At their heart, however, Japanese gardens share some key characteristics. Symmetry, for
example, is eschewed in favor of balanced asymmetry. These harmonious layouts are achieved
by the careful placement of objects and plants of various sizes, forms, and textures, frequently
contrasting rough with smooth, vertical with horizontal, or hard with soft.
The area of the garden is often restricted, but individual elements are
not forced or crowded together, and the space between objects is
considered essential to the overall design.
Japanese gardens are appreciated as visual compositions for
contemplation, rather than as spaces to be cultivated or enjoyed for
leisure. Traditionally, natural stone was used, although many modern
gardens feature concrete or stone with different finishes. Bamboo and
Cherry blossom has been
timber are also popular materials. celebrated for centuries.

The famous dry Zen gardens use fine gravel raked into fluid
patterns, and planting in these symbolic gardens is minimal, often
limited to mosses and lichens around the base of a group of rocks.
Water is seen as a purifying element, especially important in
Japanese tea rituals. Small pools, often in stone containers, or
streams, provide reflective details.
Planting in Japanese gardens is restrained, with bamboo,
grasses, and irises providing verticals, and plants such as
camellias, cherry trees, peonies, and rhododendrons used for
flower and form. The underlying geometry is not easily discernible,
but irregular plans may be complemented by paths made from
rectangular blocks. Informal stepping stones or meandering
pathways are also typical, as the changing views or winding
A mountain landscape re-created
terrain provide an aid to concentration and meditation. in miniature.
178/179 Choosing a style
JAPANESE GARDENS

What is Japanese style?

After centuries of isolation, the harmonious asymmetry
of Japanese gardens came as a shock to Western travelers
in the 19th century, who were used to more formal and
geometrical layouts. The balance of hard elements, such as
rocks, stepping stones, and gravel, with tightly clipped shrubs
and trees, created a contrast that still appeals. Meticulous
positioning of the main elements to disguise restricted
spaces, or to provide links to the landscape beyond, is
crucial to the success of many of these sculptural and
highly controlled gardens.
Japanese style in detail
Many plants used in Japanese gardens are subjected to tight pruning
regimes to maintain or restrict their size, but also to ensure that they
remain in proportion to their surroundings; maples, azaleas, camellias,
and bamboo are all controlled in this way.
In turn, rocks are selected for their weathered qualities, and their
innate characteristics are carefully considered before final placement is
agreed. A pleasing contrast between verticals and horizontals is also
important to achieve. Gravel is used to symbolize water and provides
a neutral but textured foil to the planting and rock formations. In Zen
gardens the gravel is raked into precise patterns, and this daily ritual is
considered conducive to contemplation and self-knowledge.
In stroll gardens, the route through the space is scrupulously planned,
and the winding paths or stepping stones ensure that the visitor stops
to experience the views that are revealed along the way.

Japanese Background Upright stones

maple planting

Symbolic garden
Gravel runs through this
space like a stream in
this garden designed
by Masao Fukuhama
(right). A simple stone
bridge crosses over the
gravel, providing horizontal
accents in contrast to
the stones and planting
alongside. The massed Key design elements
planting screens the
boundaries and provides
a clear visual link to the
wider landscape beyond.

1 2
Flat stone bridge
Japanese plants Water features and pools
Evergreens are often densely Water is either used expansively
planted and pruned to provide a as a reflective surface, or in smaller
consistent structure, whereas features, such as the stone water
deciduous species are used for basins (tsukubai) associated with
Bed of gravel White azalea
flower color or seasonal change. the tea ceremony.
 DESIGN INFLUENCES
The Zen gardens of Japan were created as a focus for contemplation,
relating to the garden itself and to the process of maintaining the
gravel. The style originated in the Muromachi period (c.1336–1573),
when rock work appeared in gardens of the shoguns, often with
dry streams alongside. Later examples are frequently associated
with Zen Buddhist monasteries in and around Kyoto, and many
are small-scale and enclosed.
Ryoanji, which dates from the late 15th and early 16th centuries,
is the most famous and celebrated of these gardens (below). It is
viewed from a meditation hall and veranda, and is not meant to be
traversed. Moss, the only living material in the garden, grows like an
emerald carpet around the base of five symbolic groups of rocks.
The intense abstraction and stillness of this space was created to
inspire a state of reflection and meditation in those who visit it.

Serenity and a sense of calm are at the heart of Ryoanji.

Religious influences
Japan’s rich tapestry of religious belief is fundamental to the design
of its exquisite gardens. Both the ancient religion of Shinto, and the
Buddhist teachings that were introduced later, celebrate the natural
world, and all natural elements are seen as sacred and thus worthy
of respect and worship. This philosophical approach is expressed in
many Japanese gardens by the sensitive placement of significant rocks,
trees, or other natural phenomena, with specimen maples, magnolias,
or cherries often displayed against a backdrop of dark foliage. The
cultivation of beauty as a spiritual activity is also reflected in Zen
tea gardens, in which a roji (dewy path) lit by stone lanterns leads the
visitor through an intimate landscape to the ceremonial tea house.

3 Symbolic ornaments
Stone lanterns, water basins,
and buddhas are often placed close
4 Gravel and rocks
Gravel is used to represent water,
with stones symbolizing islands, boats,
5 Bamboo fencing
Fences and gates are often made
from bamboo fastened with elaborate
6 Stepping stones
Stepping stones create a
heightened self-awareness through
to paths leading to the tea ceremony. or even animals. Great care is taken ties or bindings. These are used as the garden. Often used as a route to
Pagodas or stupas create focal points over the placement and orientation boundaries and screens, or to direct the tea ceremony, they resemble a
in larger gardens. of the stones. or control views. dewy path through the forest.
180/181 Choosing a style
JAPANESE GARDENS

Interpreting the style

Pressure on land means that most Japanese gardens are very small, and
designed to be looked at rather than used. Sculptural courtyard gardens,
laid out to be viewed from important windows or terraces, focus on a
few carefully selected stones or trees. Larger gardens are also highly
manipulated, with precisely positioned plants, trained to deceive the eye—
here there is more room for a range of trees, intricate pathways, water
features, and views into the shakkei or “borrowed landscape” beyond.

△△ Tranquil moss garden △ Miniature landscape

The uneven and meandering stepping A typical arrangement of interior, veranda,
stones stand out against a soft emerald and garden presents a staged sequence
carpet of moss. Exquisite views are of space. Here a contorted specimen pine
created to be admired along the way. provides a magnificent focal point.

△ Gravel and stones ▷ Reflections of fall

In this contemporary courtyard, carefully Japanese maples shade the banks of a
chosen rocks and stones form a sculptural pool, dropping their colorful leaves like
route across gravel and moss, punctuated jewels onto the ground. Stepping stones
by the verticals of specimen trees. offer access across the still water.
 ◁◁ Falling water
The placement of vertical and horizontal rocks is key to
the success of waterfalls and dry gravel systems alike.
This three-step cascade produces a calming water sound.

◁ Transcendent stones
Balance is an important attribute of the Japanese
garden, emphasized here by this precarious sculpture
of flat stones, and echoed by the low hedges and
ground cover beyond.

▷ Illusions of space
An illusion of distance is created here, by emphasizing
the foreground with a stone lantern and balustrade. The
fall canopies can be appreciated from the path.

JAPANESE GARDENS TO VISIT

KATSURA IMPERIAL VILLA, Kyoto, Japan
Stroll garden with extensive water and
woodland. sankan.kunaicho.go.jp

RYOANJI, Kyoto, Japan

Zen Buddhist raked gravel garden. ryoanji.jp

TOFUKUJI, Kyoto, Japan

Zen temple garden. with Acer collection.
tofukuji.jp
△△ Sinuous steps
Curving stone steps provide an enticing route through TATTON PARK, Cheshire, UK
the garden, creating a similar effect to winding stepping- One of the best Japanese gardens in
stone paths. Subtle layered planting follows the rhythm. England. tattonpark.org.uk
△ Geometric space
This modern design uses horizontal and vertical steel GOLDEN GATE PARK, San Francisco, CA
panels to form a transparent deck and unified boundary, Japanese stroll-style tea garden.
through which the stems and foliage of plants emerge.

“Japanese gardens are symbolically and

spiritually connected to the landscape”
182/183 Choosing a style
JAPANESE GARDENS

CASE STUDY

EASTERN INFLUENCE Planting traditions

Many plants associated with
Space to reflect
Despite its limited dimensions,
Japanese style feature in the this garden creates a real feeling
Key elements of a traditional Japanese tea garden,
design. The rich red coloring of space. The teahouse focal
including the cascading stream, mossy pathway, of Acer palmatum is echoed by point, careful layering of the
teahouse, and restrained planting palette, are used the pinkish young Pieris leaves, planting, and natural slope
while spiky stems of Equisetum enhanced by a gently tumbling
in this modern interpretation, where every element is and iris foliage shoot up from stream, all work to create an
carefully crafted to create a landscape in miniature. moss-dotted rocks. illusion of a bigger garden.
 Designer Ishihara Kazuyuki
Show RHS Chelsea Flower Show
Award Gold Medal

Calming stream Stop for tea Green innovation

Water is an essential part of Here made from rough The living green roofs of the
a tea garden, and the stream sawn timber, the teahouse entrance arch and teahouse are
symbolizes the renewal of life. is a traditional element of a modern addition—they would
The mossy stone walls that form the Japanese tea ceremony. traditionally be thatched or tiled.
the cascade create a visual motif; Inside, visitors are invited Succulent planting helps provide
water and stone represent yin to drink tea and reflect wildlife habitats, while softening the
and yang, complementary upon the tranquil scene contrast between the buildings
opposites that create harmony. and harmonious planting. and the surrounding plants.
184/185 Choosing a style
JAPANESE GARDENS

Japanese garden plans

These gardens cannot simply be re-created with a haphazard collection of Japanese ornaments and species;
successful Japanese designs integrate a careful balance of plants and objects that often have symbolic and
spiritual meaning. In these two examples, Maggie Judycki and Haruko Seki have perfectly captured the
notion of the soothing, contemplative garden, and the subtleties of natural colors and forms.

Living art
The fish-filled pond is a meditative focal point in Maggie Judycki’s own
garden. Rocks, ornaments, and planting are carefully arranged around Granite lantern
it and a split bamboo fence filters light in horizontal patterns across its
surface. The leaves of a Sassafras and a Betula merge and rustle above.

Key ingredients Maggie says:

1 Acer ‘Rubrum’ “This is my own garden, and it’s been a
2 Sassafras albidum work in progress for many years. I started Hand-picked boulders
out as a stone sculptor, which has helped from local stone quarry
3 Bamboo fence
me to use and understand hard materials.
4 Hosta ‘Francee’ I tend to start with them and soften the
5 Cotoneaster salicifolius ‘Gnom’ surfaces with planting.”
6 Japanese bathing stool “Sitting places are important to me, too.
7 Sarcococca hookeriana var. humilis A favorite is the Japanese bathing stool,
8 Betula utilis var. jacquemontii ideal for contemplation when I’m feeding
the koi carp. Living art and the movement
it creates is also fascinating—we can
Select blue flagstones
see the pool from the house, and it’s a laid on stone dust
constantly changing view. The garden is
typical of my work in that I customize
the space for each client.” Rill of Japanese pebbles
Capturing movement
This Japanse garden by Haruko Seki of Studio Lasso was designed for
the RHS Chelsea Flower Show and has since been re-created in a
private garden in south London. The swirling curves of gravel paving
and green mounds create a sense of movement and enclosure, while ½in (12mm) toughened
simple, transparent planting produces a delicate filigree of foliage. Still Clear Float Glass with
sandblasted finish
water reflects the lit glass panels, which give an ethereal glow and are
decorated with the silhouettes of bamboo leaves and canes. The
contrasting pale raked gravel and grass help define the composition.
Double layer of ¼in (6mm)
Key ingredients Haruko says: toughened Clear Float Glass
1 Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’ “The client who bought this garden leads with a light-diffusing,
a stressful life and was attracted to the laminated middle layer
2 Phyllostachys aurea
calmness of the composition. The design
3 Viburnum opulus
encourages a feeling of peace and opens Curved, polished,
4 Abelia ‘Edward Goucher’ one’s senses up to the environment—for powdered-black concrete
5 Spiraea cantoniensis example, the whispering of the breeze
6 Stipa tenuissima through the planting is central its success.”
“In all of my work, I use the space
to enhance the changing character of
nature; I believe this is an essential
quality in a Japanese garden. I am also ¼in (4mm) crushed,
influenced by the late landscape architect gray granite gravel
Sir Geoffrey Jellicoe, who explored the
relationship between the landscape
and the subconscious.”
Foliage gardens

This approach to garden-making is seen across the world, but works especially well in warm
climates where planting is naturally lush, and a jungle look with tall vegetation is not hard to
achieve. Texture and shape drive the design, rather than a season of bloom. Layouts vary in
their composition, but all combine areas devoted primarily to foliage, with the emphasis on
contrasting varieties and plant forms. Clearings are carved out of dense vegetation, creating
a sense of seclusion and separation, with paths winding between. Decorative bark or pine
needles are often used to create a jungle-floor softness underfoot.
These gardens are typically organic in shape, without hard edges or a sense of formality, but
where man-made structures do encroach, the contrast is often startling, with the bold use of rustic
materials such as rough-hewn timber and unworked stone. Interestingly, sleek Modernism also
works well with foliage planting. Water is frequently present in the form of energizing waterfalls
and streams, or even swimming pools.
Foliage gardens date back to 19th-century European
colonial gardens, where the indigenous, richly diverse
local flora found in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa,
Malaysia, India, and the Caribbean was used to produce
a celebration of flower color and foliage texture. The
gardens of the 20th-century Brazilian designer Roberto Burle
Marx are modern interpretations of this genre, with huge
areas devoted to rich tapestries of foliage. Exotic bromeliads add color.

In temperate zones, this approach has

been adopted in some urban gardens
with the emphasis on architectural
plants, such as tree ferns, bamboo,
loquat, Fatsia, Phormium, and cordylines,
which are combined to create a sense of
drama. Some designers also experiment
with grasses, water, or woodland planting
to gain similar effects, but formal lawns
are rarely seen in these gardens. Foliage color, texture, and shape provide dramatic effects.
188/189 Choosing a style
FOLIAGE GARDENS

What is foliage style? DESIGN INFLUENCES

The most notable name associated with this style is Roberto Burle
The jungle-like appearance of many foliage gardens Marx, the artist/ecologist/designer who worked in spectacular
fashion with the rich flora of his native Brazil. His gardens demonstrate
creates an atmosphere of irresistible exuberance. a painterly sensibility to landscape design, celebrating foliage pattern
Plants chosen for their interesting leaves dominate and and saturated flower color. In what was formerly known as the
Odette Monteiro Garden, huge plates of textured ground cover
the use of individual specimens and large-leaf perennials feature along a dramatic lawned valley. His planting designs are
en masse yields a gorgeously textured landscape particularly impressive when seen from above.
with dramatic spots of bright color. A network of
pathways and clearings forges a route through the
garden, offering the visitor a close-up view of the
planting. Cooler climate foliage gardens concentrate
on mass plantings of grasses and woodland glades.

Foliage style in detail The Luis Cezar Fernandes (formerly Odette Monteiro) Garden, Brazil.
The enjoyment of foliage gardens derives from the sheer volume and
variety of planting. In larger gardens there may be space for grassy
areas, swimming pools, and patios but, generally, most of the
available garden space is devoted to leaves. Flowers are often
subordinate and provide stabs of vivid color among the foliage.
Taller species such as Eucalyptus, palms, cordylines, and bamboo
provide height and vertical interest, while the space below is filled
with lower-growing shrubs, grasses, and perennials. The main
emphasis is on structural and foliage planting, but sewn into this
rich canvas is a brilliant embroidery of flower color, with Strelitzia
(bird of paradise) and Canna typical in warmer climates, and dahlias
or lobelia more appropriate in temperate regions.
Larger cities form heat islands, in which warmer than average
temperatures allow more exotic species to find a home. In the UK,
this has led to the phenomenon of urban jungle gardens.
Gravel path is a House
foil for planting

The exotic garden

In this remarkable garden
(right), created by the late
Will Giles at his home near
the center of Norwich, rich
planting exploded from the
borders over gravel paths.
Sparks of color came from
the purple-leaved Canna
and tall yellow sunflowers.
Cacti and succulents were
brought outside over the
summer months, while
containers of other plants
of differing heights,
including grasses and
herbs, fringed the vibrant,
foliage-rich display.

A large palm (Trachycarpus

fortunei) gives height to
the planting design

Exotic banana (Musa)

contributes to the Pots form a Canna ‘Durban’ adds
subtropical feel central island hot color accents
Key design elements

1 Bold foliage
The key element is
foliage that makes a
2 Colorful
highlights
Bright flower color lifts
3 Pools and
reflections
Clear pools, perhaps
statement. The plants the general greenness of edged with lilies or
that dominate demand these gardens, providing papyrus, create
attention; strappy surprises along the way. reflective surfaces.
Phormium perhaps, or Here Dahlia ‘Bishop of Waterfalls add sound
tall-growing bamboo, Llandaff’ adds rich red and energy, and boulders
or Musa (banana) with flowers and dark foliage. set by jungle pools
its fabric-like leaves. provide naturalistic seats.

4 Containers
In cooler climates,
planting exotics and
5 Materials
Hard materials are
often sourced locally.
6 Height and
structure
Tall plants are essential
tender species in pots Gravel or stone, often to create jungle-like
offers the designer rough-hewn, are used layering. This banana-like
greater flexibility—they for paved surfaces, but Ensete, Trachycarpus
can easily be moved timber and bamboo are (Chusan palm), and
under cover in winter. also common. Walls Eucalyptus give height
Dramatic pots can also covered with whitewash to the canopy, and offer
be used as focal points in or painted render add protection and shade
a design. intense color. to plants below.
190/191 Choosing a style
FOLIAGE GARDENS

Interpreting the style

Foliage gardens deliberately set out to overwhelm the onlooker
with the sheer volume and scale of planting in the jungle-like
borders. When grouping your plants, consider details—such as
the shape, texture, and color of leaves—to produce exciting
contrasts. Add bright color with variegated foliage and striking,
subtropical flowers to complete the vibrant mixture.

△△ Palm and gravel mix

An informal clearing is edged
GARDENS TO VISIT with the elegant, fanned leaves
THE EXOTIC GARDEN OF EZE, of Chusan palms (Trachycarpus
fortunei) with vertical jets of
Monaco, France. brilliant red cannas dotted
Exotic plants from all over the world. between. A low mound of dark
jardinexotique-eze.fr green planting complements
the composition.
TREBAH, Cornwall, UK △ Spiky combinations
Subtropical garden on a Cornish hillside. The instantly recognizable,
trebah-garden.co.uk sword-shaped foliage and tall
flower spikes of Phormium tenax
dominate this space—echoed by
WIGANDIA, Victoria, Australia the sharp points of agaves and the
Garden on slopes of Mount Noorat. fine-cut leaves of palms.
wigandia.com
◁ Grassy effects
SITIO ROBERTO BURLE MARX, A basket-weave path meanders
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil through a border of fine textures,
The late artist’s own large garden. which include the repeated arching
rosettes of Hakonechloa macra
museusdorio.com.br ‘Aureola’—a grass that takes on
warm orange tones in fall.
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE, Thailand
A lush jungle garden in Bangkok.
jimthompsonhouse.com
◁ Hot pot
This incidental association plays on the similarities
between the tones of the glazed pot and the veined
Canna leaves. Carmine red flowers turn up the heat.

◁◁ Verdant enclosure
Even within the confines of a small and overlooked city
garden, it is possible to create privacy and a space to
relax. Here, a hot tub is enclosed by hedges of densely
planted bamboo and tall hurdles.

△ Sunset spires
Phormium ‘Sundowner’, Astelia chathamica ‘Silver
Spear’, and the heads of Verbena bonariensis
conspire to produce a glorious display of glowing
color in the evening sun.

◁ Cool pool
An array of fleshy foliage closes in to create a secluded
swimming pool alongside a sun-filled terrace in this
thickly planted jungle garden.

“Foliage
gardens are
a feast of
sculptural
shapes and
forms”
192/193 Choosing a style
FOLIAGE GARDENS

CASE STUDY

FEAST OF FOLIAGE Hardy exotic

The lancewood Pseudopanax
Leaf combos
Foliage can offer pleasingly
crassifolius makes an intriguing bold color contrasts, as
Architectural forms and leafy contrasts are key to
statement, with its weird, here with the orange-brown
the success of this garden, which, despite the lack almost dead-looking foliage leaves of tall, feathery rushes
of flowers, is a triumph of sculptural shapes, textures, and gaunt form. A surprisingly next to silvery Artemisia.
hardy tree from New Zealand, Elsewhere, bright green
and colors, created by inspiring foliage combinations it is guaranteed to create a tree ferns overhang white-
from small trees, shrubs, perennials, and grasses. talking point in any garden. splashed hostas.
 Designers Andrew Fisher Tomlin and Dan Bowyer
Show RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show
Award Gold Medal and Best Summer Garden

Simple materials Color spots Jungle enclosure

The landscaping materials, The foliage-dominated planting The palm, Butia yatay, and tree
such as the gray paving and is lifted by spots of flower ferns provide a sense of privacy
dark, almost black, boundary color. Most of the blooms are and enclosure, without being
walls, provide excellent foils small, such as those of Canna too overbearing in this small
for the foliage, their smooth indica and Duranta erecta space. The jungle-like plants are
texture and contemporary ‘Geisha Girl’—the restricted also relatively hardy, and would
colors contrasting with, but palette of orange and blue be ideal for a city garden in a
never upstaging, the leaves. complements the leaf colors. temperate climate.
194/195 Choosing a style
FOLIAGE GARDENS

Foliage garden plans

In two of these gardens, British designers have used a range of tender and hardy plants to achieve a foliage
effect in a cool climate. The third, in Florida, is a leafy, tropical extravaganza. In all three, the exuberance of
dense foliage and architectural planting needs some sense of control, and this is provided by paving, water,
and structural elements, such as the screens and boundaries. These also offer contrasts in texture and form.
Narrow path laid with
Layered planting 1½ in–2½ in (40 mm–
60 mm) slate chippings
In designer Declan Buckley’s own garden, a rich tapestry of layered
planting sits alongside the bold geometry of paving and a pool; the use
of reflective water increases textural impact. There is a great sense of
contrast here, between the open, light terrace and the narrow pathways.
Key ingredients to plant them in. The site is a long
1 Phyllostachys nigra rectangle, overlooked by a row of
2 Euonymus japonicus five-story houses, so bold and layered
architectural planting was a necessity,
3 Fatsia japonica as it helps to screen the site and
4 Pseudosasa japonica provides privacy. Conversely, the end
5 Geranium palmatum wall of my own house is solid glazing, A simple wooden
6 Astelia chathamica which gives me a dramatic view across footbridge crosses
the pool and into the luxuriant planting.” the pond
7 Buxus sempervirens
8 Cycas revoluta “London’s warmer temperatures allow
more tender and unusual species to Reclaimed York
stone paving
thrive, and plants were chosen for their
Declan says: texture and form—flower and color
“After spending many years growing all were secondary. A strong, simple
my plants in pots on a roof terrace, it framework softened by foliage is
was a huge relief to have my own garden key to all my projects.” The pool reflects surrounding
foliage color and texture
English exotic The boundary walls are
almost hidden by foliage
In this small garden by Annie
Guilfoyle, a mass of oversized
and textured exotic planting
hovers over a wooden deck.
Key ingredients
1 Phormium cookianum subsp.
hookeri ‘Tricolor’
2 Eriobotrya japonica
3 Euphorbia mellifera
4 Musa basjoo
5 Polystichum setiferum

Annie says:
“This garden is close to the River
Thames in Kew, London. It’s a tiny space The decking’s zigzag edging
that had to capture the essence of the increases the sense of space
East, where my clients had spent a
great deal of time, yet link seamlessly Ground-level ferns add
with the house. To create deeper another layer of texture
planting areas, I set the layout at an
angle—which also seemed to make the
boundaries disappear. This is typical of
my work, as I try to maximize usable
space in small gardens, balancing room
for relaxing and entertaining with rich,
full planting.”
“The garden is low-maintenance, and
it was good to work with a client who
didn’t demand year-round color.”

Tropical refuge Terra-cotta-colored wall

adds visual drama
Raymond Jungles has used large,
fleshy leaves to create shade in
this Florida Keys garden. Regimented,
square paving
Glimpses of art lead the eye slabs give a
through the plants. sense of order
to the lush
jungle foliage
Key ingredients
1 Pritchardia pacifica
2 Attalea cohune
3 Solanum wendlandii
4 Areca vestiaria
5 Heliconia rostrata

Raymond says: The bench

“I created this garden for my family and it doubles as
was a labor of love. I am influenced a a work of art
great deal by other designers, in
particular, Roberto Burle Marx, Luis
Barragán, and Richard Serra. In some
ways, this garden was a laboratory in
which I grew specimens, some of which
were collected in Brazil with Burle Marx
himself. The result looks typical of my
work, but nowadays I tend to use native
species whenever possible. We tried to
maximize light in the house and garden,
and used sliding doors to differentiate
between interior and exterior space.
Many of the materials are rescued
and re-utilized.”
Productive gardens

Historically, two main types of productive garden evolved: the large walled gardens of wealthy
Victorian estate owners, which offered exotic fruit, fresh vegetables, and cut flowers for weekend
entertainments, and, at the other extreme, cottage gardens and areas of private gardens
devoted to growing produce as a hobby, or to supplement the diet.
The Victorians elevated productive gardening to a fine art, but they were not the first to mix
fruit, vegetables, and flowers in the same area. Medieval abbey gardens were typically divided
into small herb and vegetable beds with some decorative planting, and Renaissance gardens in
France featured ornamental produce in elegant parterres, known as
“potagers.” This term is still used today to describe an attractive
productive garden.
Planting of victory gardens during World War II generated a
huge enthusiasm for home-grown produce in the U.S. but this waned
as wealth increased after the conflict. Today, our increasing desire
for organic food, and concerns about the carbon footprint of
imported goods, is fueling a revival of the kitchen garden, albeit
on a smaller scale.
Most productive gardens tend to be orderly, with geometric beds
separated by paths for ease of access and maintenance. However,
A scarecrow protects
designs today also include tiny spaces, where fruit and vegetables valuable crops.

are grown informally in pots on a

patio or balcony, or even in a window
box. Materials for surfaces focus on
the utilitarian—concrete slabs, brick
paths, or compacted earth are all
practical options and suit the look.
Planting varies seasonally, with fruit
trees and bushes providing the
permanent structure. Low box
hedges may also be included, often
to contain herbs that tend to flop and
spread, while rainwater, required for
irrigation, can be captured in barrels
or other recycling vessels. Formal potager at Château de Villandry in France.
 198 199 PRODUCTIVE GARDENS
/ Choosing a style

What is productive style?

In large productive gardens, the layout and surfaces tend to be functional, creating a sense of ordered
abundance, while in smaller spaces, the design is often more relaxed, with planters used to squeeze in as
many crops as possible. Traditional designs were influenced by early monastic or physic gardens, which were
divided into geometric beds filled with herbs and vegetables, punctuated by taller focal plants, such as bay
trees or standard roses, in the center. These simple design plans are used in contempory edible gardens,
too, with bed sizes often shrunk to fit smaller urban plots. Functional paths—made of brick, stone, or gravel—
allow space to tend the fruits and vegetables easily, while colorful rows of crops, fruitful containers, and
decorative interplanting create garden designs that provide a feast for the eyes as well as the table.

Productive gardens in detail

As the 20th century came to a close, productive planting was pushed
to the end of the main garden to give flowers, shrubs, and trees
pride of place. Today, this approach is changing, as more people
realize that growing food close to home is not only fun, but also
allows you to enjoy fruit and vegetables that are either not available
at the store or, like raspberries or tomatoes, expensive to buy.
Productive gardens need to be planned carefully to make them
easy to manage. When planting in the ground, different crops should
be planted in different beds each year to prevent the build-up of
soil-borne pests and diseases. In small gardens and on patios or
terraces, compact crops, such as tomatoes, chile peppers, eggplant,
and leafy salad crops can be grown successfully in pots or larger
planters, with fresh compost each year offering the same pest and
disease prevention. Cold frames, greenhouses, and sunny
windowsills indoors allow you to extend the growing season, while
bee-friendly plants, such as lavender and open-flowered dahlias,
inject color and bring in pollinators to guarantee a good crop.
Willow arch to support beans

Colorful potager
Here, the ordered
character of the vegetable
garden (right), with its
rows of crops and strong
rectilinear pattern, makes
a beautiful impression. Tall
supports for runner beans
and clipped hedging
are used to enclose the
space, and red dahlias
and lavender add extra
splashes of color.

Square beds with a

colorful mix of flowers
and leafy crops

Wide paths for access

and structure
 DESIGN INFLUENCES
While many modern productive of gravel or beaten earth, or ash
gardens are a mix of styles, some still produced by the greenhouse boilers.
echo the regimental formality of the Tender fruit trees were trained along
walled kitchen gardens of the great south-facing walls that radiated heat
English country houses. Victorian to protect them from hard frosts,
aristocrats showed off their wealth while soft fruit bushes were grown
by serving exotic hothouse produce under netted frames to prevent
to guests, but the main function of birds from eating the harvest.
the garden was to provide fresh food Large, heated greenhouses were
for the whole household. often built into the structure of the
Crops were set out in orderly wall, allowing early cropping and
lines in geometric beds edged with the cultivation of tender produce,
Traditional walled kitchen garden. box and separated by paths made such as peaches and apricots.

Key design elements

1 Raised beds
Raised beds were first
introduced to improve
drainage, but they also
provide a sense of order.
An increased height of up
to 3 ft (1 m) allows those
with a disability to tend
their gardens more easily.

2 Wide paths
Pathways should be at
least 3 ft (1 m) wide in
order to make the garden
easy to navigate. Hard
surfaces, such as brick,
stone slabs, or gravel are
ideal since they withstand
heavy everyday use.

3 Rustic obelisks
Ornamental features
are always put to good use.
Trellises and wooden or
metal obelisks create height
and rhythm in the garden,
but also provide support
for climbers, such as runner
beans or sweet peas.

4 Planting in rows
Crops planted in rows
can be easily recorded,
cared for, and harvested,
and the spaces between
rows provide access for
weeding. This geometric
layout gives these beds
their unique character.

5 Practical
containers
Pots can be used to grow
a wide range of edibles
in small gardens and on
patios and terraces. Large
containers hold more
compost and water and
require less maintenance
than smaller types.
200/201 PRODUCTIVE GARDENS Choosing a style

Interpreting the style

When planning a fruit and vegetable garden, you can opt
for a formal design with regular pathways or dividers, or
go for a more relaxed approach, using a series of planters
and pots. Low hedges or raised beds give coherence to
border edges in larger gardens, and beans, corn, and fruit
trees provide height. Introduce color with flowers that
attract beneficial insects, or choose those you can eat.

△ Fruitful balcony ▷ Olive terraces

Pots of tomato cordons are tucked into Rows of mature olive trees provide
a tiny sunny balcony, which provides a a sculptural element in this elegant
warm microclimate for these tender design for a warm, sunny urban
crops. Tomatoes are ideal, since the plants space. A layer of culinary herbs
produce lots of fruit yet take up very little is planted below to soften the
floor space, allowing an area for seating. architecture.
◁ Edible windowbox bouquet ▷ Salad in a planter
Strawberries have been planted along Suitable for use in restricted spaces,
with edible flowers, including nasturtiums this stained timber planter contains
and pot marigolds, in this contemporary a mix of salad crops and herbs.
windowbox. The marigolds have a citrus Tomatoes or strawberries would
flavor and nasturtiums taste peppery. also be appropriate.

▽▷ Eye-catching gourds
▽ Urban kitchen garden Productive planting can be included in
This small city courtyard has been the design of the main garden. Here,
transformed into a tiny allotment, with gourds are used as a decorative
baskets of crops and a cleverly designed climber, giving privacy to the seating
dining table that doubles as a planter area. Pink dahlias provide late
for salad leaves, herbs, and flowers. summer color below.

◁ Lettuce and herb mix

Raised timber planters offer easily accessible
beds for herbs and salad leaves. The rough
woven rope edging on those shown here
helps to combat attacks by slugs and snails.

GARDENS TO VISIT
BROGDALE, Kent, UK
Home of the National Fruit Collection.
brogdalecollections.org

LOST GARDENS OF HELIGAN,

Cornwall, UK
Walled garden with many traditional
cultivars. heligan.com

WEST DEAN, West Sussex, UK

Beautifully restored Edwardian kitchen
garden. westdean.org.uk/gardens

“Homegrown produce is one

RHS GARDEN WISLEY, Surrey, UK
Includes herb, fruit, and vegetable gardens.
rhs.org.uk/gardens/wisley

of the joys of gardening life” CHATEAU DE VILLANDRY, France

Formal Renaissance kitchen garden.
chateauvillandry.fr
202/203 PRODUCTIVE GARDENS
Choosing a style

CASE STUDY

EDIBLE EDEN Elegant yields

Rustic materials and a mix of
Practical paving
The red brick pathway marries
vegetables, herbs, and flowers well with the traditional styling.
Productive gardens can be any shape or size, and
reference cottage style. Both practical and decorative,
even in this small plot, the designer has squeezed a Every bed is crammed with it lends an old-fashioned look,
wide range of edibles into raised beds and narrow edibles, from beets and while allowing plenty of space
lettuces to beans scrambling for wheelbarrows and a hard
borders, mingled with flowers that attract bees and up wigwams, but the overall surface from which to cultivate
other pollinators to create a beautiful, bountiful space. look is decorative and orderly. and harvest the produce.
 Designer Nick Williams-Ellis
Show RHS Chelsea Flower Show
Award Gold Medal and Best Courtyard Garden

Herb focal point Crops in close-up Potted extras

A clipped bay tree edged with The wide edging on the raised In small gardens, compact
a skirt of culinary herbs— beds doubles as both work crops can be grown in pots
including rosemary, parsley, surface and informal seating and containers to increase the
and thyme—provides a from which to admire the growing space. These patio
beautiful, aromatic focal point garden. It also allows crops to tomatoes have been bred for
in the center of the garden, be inspected at close quarters such a purpose and produce
and a readily accessible source so that damage from pests and high yields of sweet fruits
of fresh herbs for the kitchen. diseases can be spotted quickly. on small bushy plants.
204/205 PRODUCTIVE GARDENS Choosing a style

Productive garden plans

In a productive garden, function generally wins over style, but the two are not mutually exclusive. These three
gardens are packed with delicious edible plants, yet each, in its own way, looks great. Maurice Butcher’s
design bursts with edible produce; Bunny Guinness’s vegetable garden gives a nod to formality with its
timber raised bed; and an allotment society has mixed herbs, flowers, and vegetables in a small space.

Wildly productive
Even the paving in this natural-looking productive garden, designed
Gray-green concrete
by Maurice Butcher for the 2007 RHS Hampton Court Palace stepping stones
Flower Show in London, is softened by a profusion of planting—in surrounded by chamomile

this case chamomile which, when trodden on, releases a scent.

Key ingredients Maurice says:
1 Chamaemelum nobile (lawn “This small kitchen garden was created
chamomile) for enthusiastic gardeners. The This Arbutus unedo
emphasis is on medicinal and culinary (strawberry tree) is the
2 Santolina rosmarinifolia focal point around which
herbs for regular harvesting, but the
(cotton lavender) space is for relaxing, too. The clients the garden is organized
3 Petroselinum crispum (parsley) also wanted something organic and with
4 Mentha suaveolens (apple mint) a low carbon footprint.”
5 Galium odoratum (sweet woodruff) “As the design developed it became
6 Chamaedaphne ‘Cassandra’ clear that we were working toward a blend
of fruit, vegetables, and herbs, and that
(leatherleaf lettuce)
they should be the dominant elements.”
7 Thymus ‘Doone Valley’ (thyme) “I take inspiration from many things
8 Salvia officinalis ‘Tricolor’ (sage) such as literature, art, and travel. The
input and character of my clients are
essential ingredients in my work, too.”
Raising vegetables Modern
greenhouse
The geometric layout of this
garden by Bunny Guinness Young box
includes the sort of well- parterres
equipped detailing needed in
a hard-working space. The
raised beds of vegetables are
easy to reach and maintain. Pressure-
treated
Key ingredients softwood
coping
1 Phaseolus coccineus (runner beans)
2 Allium cepa (garden onions)
3 Daucus carota subsp. sativus
(carrots)
4 Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris
(red chard)
5 Vitis vinifera (vine)

Bunny says: Brick steps

“This garden was originally dominated
by an overgrown Leylandii hedge. Once
this was removed, the space really
opened up and a backdrop of native
plants was revealed, which help to
soften my design.”
“The space works hard, which is
typical of my approach. The owner is a
grilling enthusiast, so I created a space
for entertaining, with a barbecue grill
and built-in sink, and a small greenhouse.”
“My influences often come from
the architects I work with, and new or
interesting ideas I see on my travels.”

Garden allotment Pumpkins

scramble
This garden was designed by the up sturdy Wooden
Manchester Allotment Society supports arbor seat

for the RHS Flower Show Tatton

Park and aims to show how easy
it is to integrate a few crops into
the average domestic garden.
Key ingredients
1 Beehive-style composter
2 Wildflowers
3 Ocimum basilicum (basil)
and other herbs
4 Solanum melongena (eggplant)
5 Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin)
Gravel Beehive Raised beds
Packed with a variety of herbs, including path composter with herbs,
basil, fennel, sage, and parsley, the crops set among tomatoes, and
are squeezed into raised wooden beds wildflowers eggplant
and small patches of soil in between.
French marigolds (Tagetes) are woven
through the herb plants, providing color
and helping to deter flying pests.
Tender crops, such as eggplant and
tomatoes, are also included. They can
be grown outside in a sheltered sunny
garden, and ripen toward the end of
summer. A few pumpkin plants scramble
up supports at the back of the plot.
The white beehive composter creates
a decorative yet practical focal point,
and wildflowers help to lure pollinating
insects to the fruiting vegetables.
Family gardens

As leisure time increased in the middle of the 20th century, the concept of a garden shifted from a
formal area that was walked through or viewed from the house, to a space that provided a focus
for family life. Specific areas devoted to relaxation, children’s play, and dining have become
increasingly popular, and today these spaces form the template for many family designs.
Family gardens are often a blend of styles. Their layouts can be rectangular or curved, with
flexible designs for children’s areas that will accommodate their changing needs as they grow.
Play equipment helps to introduce strong color into the design, while planting areas that attract
a range of wildlife can also provide entertainment for young ones.
The safety of babies and young children is a top priority in these
gardens, with jets and cascades, where the main water reservoir is
underground, used instead of open water features. However, naturalistic
ponds are perfect for older children, who will enjoy the aquatic creatures
and wildlife these features attract.
Natural or composite stone are popular materials for dining and
seating areas, with bark chippings, or other soft yet resilient materials,
providing practical surfaces for play spaces. In larger gardens,
the transition between the children’s and adults’ areas can easily
Natural surroundings can be
be managed with separate, designated areas, but in smaller adapted to create play areas.

plots the design may need to be

more adaptable, perhaps using play
equipment that can be cleared
away as night falls. Lighting can also
help to create a different ambience
for adults to enjoy after dark.
Planting in a family garden needs
to be robust and easy to maintain; it
should also be free from toxic plants
and sharp thorns. Hardwearing turf is
the best choice for lawns used by
children, or opt for easy-care
artificial grass. A swimming pool provides hours of fun for older children.
208/209 Choosing a style
FAMILY GARDENS

What is a family garden?

A family garden can be almost any style that has been
adapted to provide a flexible space for games, room Tepee acts as
for entertainment and play, and an area for dining. a focal point

The smallest of gardens can accommodate a sandbox

or swing, while larger plots have space for separate
Camp fire
adult- and child-friendly zones. offers cooking
opportunities

Family gardens in detail

The concept of the outdoor room celebrates family life. Terraces Tough grasses
need to be large enough to accommodate a dining table and chairs, and shrubs
with space for a barbecue grill or even an outdoor kitchen.
For play, there are two schools of thought: structured play relies
upon equipment, but children have different needs as they grow, so
flexibility is important. For example, a small sandbox located close
to the house allows parents to watch their young children more Natural stone
easily; then, as they grow and move down the garden to seek more slabs create a
wide bridge
adventure, swings, slides, and jungle gyms can be introduced.
Unstructured play provides a rich and interesting environment in
which children can be encouraged to take some risks—building dens, Natural playground
ponddipping, climbing trees, and watching wildlife. This requires a Designed by Chuck Stopherd of Hidden Gardens,
more subtle approach to design and one in which parents cannot be this garden (right) for older children offers valuable
opportunities for outdoor play. The tepee, fire pit, and
too strict about their gardening exploits, giving preference to the pool, hidden behind trees, provide a natural setting for
needs of their inquisitive children. children to take risks and explore their environment.

Key design elements

1 Play equipment
The children’s area
can feature large items
4 Tough plants
Plants have to be
versatile and tough
of play equipment, such to withstand rough
as a swing or jungle treatment from children
gym. If space is limited, and pets. Closely
some items may still be planted, often with some
included by adapting a evergreens and seasonal
pergola or similar color, they must also be
structure. easy to look after.

A 1950s family garden designed for play. 2 Colorful

materials
Splashes of bright,
5 Wildlife features
Ponds with sloping
sides to allow creatures
DESIGN INFLUENCES primary colors are an access, boxes for birds,
The garden as a family facility is relatively essential ingredient in habitats to give shelter
recent, although outdoor dining en famille a family garden. These to small animals, and
has always been a tradition in Mediterranean can be introduced via plants to attract bees,
planting, equipment, or are all ideal for family
countries. Thomas Church’s book, Gardens
hard landscaping. gardens.
Are For People, first published in 1955, changed
perceptions of the garden and signaled a
move away from intensive gardening and
toward the development of the outdoor 3 Dens and tents
Part of the children’s
area could include a
6 Easy-care
seating
Seating needs to be
room. Later, John Brookes developed these
ideas in his designs and 1969 book Room den: a place of their suitable for children and
own where they can adults. Furniture that
Outside: A New Approach To Garden Design.
extend their imagination can be left uncovered
Today, gardens are places of enjoyment, through play. It may be all year and requires
education, and fun for families to share. placed within view of the the minimum of care
house or tucked away and maintenance is the
in a corner. most practical.
210/211 Choosing a style
FAMILY GARDENS

Interpreting the style

A family garden is about sharing your space. The dining area is
the social hub around which the design revolves, and can be
created with a paved or decked terrace that links into a lawn
or into more structured play areas with integrated or temporary
play equipment. Swimming pools or natural ponds make
reflective centerpieces for gardens where older children play.

△△ Versatile space
A large-scale chessboard is both a design feature and
a challenging family game, making the most of a quiet
retreat surrounded by textured foliage planting.

△ Safe play area

This built-in sandbox is close enough to the house to be
monitored, but planting creates the illusion of another
world. A cover will provide protection from the weather.

▷ Star attraction
Central to the design of this contemporary garden, the
turquoise pool is both functional and decorative. Safety
covers or security fences may be introduced if necessary.

▷▷ Secret hideaway
In a secret corner of this densely planted garden, a den
of willow and brushwood becomes the focus of adventure
and discovery, providing an escape from the adult world.
 ◁◁ Adventure playground
A play house that can only be accessed via a footbridge—
fun for kids, but perhaps too precarious for adults—
allows children to escape, and control who visits.

◁ Wildlife haven
This large reflective pond and the reed margins provide
a range of wildlife habitats that can be observed from
the various vantage points located around the banks.

▽ Family fun
As well as exercise, a trampoline offers a perfect
outlet for letting off steam, which is beneficial for both
children and adults alike.

“Helping to bring families closer

together is perhaps the garden’s
most important role”

FAMILY GARDENS TO VISIT

ALNWICK GARDEN, Northumberland, UK
Created with children in mind, with water
features and a gigantic tree house.
www.alnwickgarden.com
△ Colorful entertaining
This vibrant area is part of a modern CAMLEY STREET NATURAL PARK,
design, and combines cooking, dining, London, UK
and relaxation, offering a fun area
where the whole family can decamp
Ponds and meadows, and hands-on activities.
to escape the confines of the house. www.wildlondon.org.uk

CAMDEN CHILDREN’S GARDEN,

▷ Treetop retreat Camden, NJ
A tree house takes pride of place Four-acre interactive garden for families.
here, acting as both a retreat for www.camdenchildrensgarden.org
children and a decorative focal
point. It also offers a hideaway for
adults when the children are in bed.
MILLENNIUM PARK, Chicago, IL
Offers a program of interactive family
events and workshops.
www.millenniumpark.org
212/213 Choosing a style
FAMILY GARDENS

CASE STUDY

FAMILY VALUES Shady canopies

The white birch stems echo the
Soft to touch
Easy-care plants that are
white blooms, while contrasting soft to touch are ideal for
Family gardens should be places of fun, where
with the understory of green family spaces. Here, shade-
children have freedom to explore and play safely. foliage. The trees punctuate the loving perennials, shrubs,
Successful designs cater to both young and older design with their bright vertical and evergreen ferns create
trunks, and their canopies also a leafy blanket, while star
users, providing features to entertain little ones, and offer essential shade, helping to jasmine clads the walls, its
areas for adults to relax and enjoy the scenery. protect youngsters from sunshine. tiny blooms scenting the air.
 Designers Nick Buss and Clare Olof
Show RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show
Award Silver Medal

Colorful journey Bubbling tubes Hide and seek

The curved path is colorful A great way to introduce water The hollowed tree trunk and
and confident, creating a safely into a family garden is woven willow playhouse (far
visually exciting journey and with these eye-catching “bubble left) bring an element of fairy
a focal point through the tubes” filled with clear and tale to the design, to fire the
duo-tone planting. The small dyed water. The sound and imagination and provide places
brick pavers also lend detail movement will fascinate to play and hide. Such naturalist
and texture, and complement children, while also producing structures blend tonally with
the tiled box stool. a soothing, calming effect. the planting and wider design.
214/215 Choosing a style
FAMILY GARDENS

Family garden plans

Integrating functional spaces for different age groups is the challenge in family gardens. These gardens—the first
designed by Ian Kitson, with planting by Julie Toll, and the second designed by Claire Mee—take contrasting, but
equally successful, approaches to the family garden brief. Ian’s curved, informal layout blurs the line between
adults’ and children’s areas, while Claire’s follows formal lines with a more discreet spot for play.

Gently rolling
In this London family garden, Ian Kitson has created a spacious lawn
where the children can play, while the terrace provides a place for family
dining and social occasions. The two areas are divided by a snaking
dry-stone and log wall, and by soft planting, designed by Julie Toll.
Dry-stone
Key ingredients Ian says: walling
1 Acer palmatum ‘Sango-kaku’ “Julie and I call this the ‘chutes and
2 Geranium ‘Jolly Bee’ ladders’ garden—the layout is curvilinear,
but the detailing is sharp and precise.
3 Echinacea purpurea
The garden previously featured a sudden
4 Crataegus monogyna drop in level, but the retaining walls,
5 Dry-stone walling steps, and planting have softened this.” New-sawn
Yorkstone
6 Lavandula angustifolia “Lighting is included within the steps coping
7 Calamagrostis x acutiflora and between the logs in the curving
‘Karl Foerster’ dry-stone and log walls, which give the
garden an organic quality.”
8 Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’
“The terrace is used for outdoor dining,
and there’s room on the lawn for games.
I like the way the grass oozes around the
wall, and the fact that it’s transformed
into a carpet of daffodils in spring.”
Yorkstone paving
Corner piece Black limestone paving Teak bench

The sophisticated look of this family garden by Claire Mee

was achieved with an elegant decked terrace for dining, while
the pergola at the end of the plot gives the children a play
area, complete with swing. The spaces are divided by a grove
of olive trees, which offer privacy and add height. The tree
canopies have been lifted to leave clear stems that create
dramatic shadows; light also reflects on the silvery foliage.
Key ingredients interiors of hotels, restaurants, and bars,
1 Olea europaea which use different materials so well.”
2 Buxus sempervirens ‘Latifolia “Wide windows look down the length
of the garden, and we used clear-stemmed
Maculata’ olives to provide privacy without blocking
3 Allium hollandicum ‘Purple this view. Elsewhere, I like the contrast
Sensation’ between the softer planting and the Polystone (fiberglass
and resin composite)
4 Sisyrinchium striatum architectural specimens. The client also planters
5 Bark chippings wanted a terrace outside the French doors
6 Origanum vulgare ‘Aureum’ to match the floor-level in the house, and
I designed a large timber deck to make this
Ipe hardwood
link (legally, a paved surface would have
Claire says: to be lower to avoid the damp course).”
decking
“This urban garden occupies a corner plot, Ipe hardwood
so it’s an unusual shape. My ideas for the pergola
design were developed from the house’s
architecture, and from the interior design
and decor. I’m often influenced by the
Natural gardens

Naturalistic gardens are nothing new, with influential designers from the 18th to the 21st century
striving to emulate the natural world in a variety of ways. Today, this style focuses primarily on
sustainability, with designers incorporating plants and materials that do not diminish the world’s
dwindling resources. A natural garden will typically include recycled and renewable materials
and a diverse mix of plants that offer food and habitats to wildlife.
Introduced in the late 20th century, the New Perennial Movement—as espoused by plantsmen
such as Piet Oudolf—increased interest in naturalistic gardening styles and has influenced many
contemporary designers today. This style combines hardy perennials with grasses, matching plants
with their sites so that they flourish with little maintenance. More recently, British, Dutch, and German
research into sustainable plant communities has also set new design trends.
There is a popular idea that natural gardens must be rustic in
character, but this need not be the case, and many modern, elegant
designs include local or renewable materials, such as timber from
certified plantations, and sophisticated recycled materials.
Most owners of natural gardens adopt an organic approach to
controlling pests and diseases, keeping them at bay through use of
biological controls and balanced ecosystems, rather than chemical
pesticides. Habitats that support local species and help to increase
Recycled materials create key
biodiversity are key to these designs, but natural gardens do not rely features in this modern design.

exclusively on native species; non-

invasive exotic plants that attract
beneficial insects and wildlife are
also highly useful, offering extra color
and year-round interest.
Extensive prairie and meadow
planting is often used in large
gardens, but wildflowers and bee-
friendly species can easily be
included in smaller spaces, too,
providing a range of different
habitats in tiny gardens. A sympathetically designed swimming pond will attract wildlife.
218/219 Choosing a style
NATURAL GARDENS

What is
natural style?
A sustainable garden should be capable of working
as an effective ecosystem, with reduced or minimal
levels of intervention. It is this approach that sets it
apart from a traditional garden. Ecological principles
play an essential role in creating habitats in which
planting neighbors thrive, competition between
them is balanced, and species are closely matched
to the prevailing soil and climatic conditions.

Natural gardens in detail

The materials used in a natural garden need to be assessed against a
series of criteria. Recycled products are a good idea as they reduce
the exploitation of new resources, but sometimes they have a higher
carbon footprint, whereas sourcing new timber from managed,
renewable and, preferably, local plantations may be a better option.
Other factors to consider include the permeability or drainage of
hard-landscaped surfaces. These should be either porous, in order
to top up groundwater, or designed to allow water to run off into a
collection unit, thereby reducing the strain on supplies.
In a sustainable, natural garden, planting is key, and a healthy
variety of wildlife habitats essential. Choose plants that thrive in the
prevailing conditions and complement each other, which in turn will
help to reduce the incidence of pests and diseases, although other
forms of biological control may also be needed. Soil improvers
should come from your own compost heap and organic manures.

Key design elements

Rosemary Weisse’s garden at Westpark in Munich.

DESIGN INFLUENCES
The change from purely ornamental planting to the creation of
successful plant communities started when William Robinson
(1838–1935) advocated the integration of native and exotic species,
which he called “wilderness planting.” The development of American
prairie planting, championed by Jens Jensen in the 1920s and ’30s,
responded to Robinson’s ideas, and was later taken up in Europe
by the New Perennial Movement. Large drifts of grasses and
perennials, like those seen in the schemes of Rosemary Weisse
1 Green roofs
Green roof systems manage
rainwater run-off and provide
2 Encouraging wildlife
Increased diversity is achieved
by creating effective habitats for
in Munich, are typical of this approach. In Canada, Environment insulation. Convert existing roofs wildlife. The more habitats there
Canada has put together a comprehensive guide on establishing using pre-planted sedum mats. New are, such as old logs, bee hotels, and
prairie and meadow communities. structures can accommodate more insect-friendly planting, the greater
elaborate habitats. the diversity.
 Wildlife haven
Designed as a naturalist, sustainable garden by Stephen Hall (left) this
beautiful design shows how precious resources, such as water and
wildlife, can be supported and protected. The garden includes a
range of diverse habitats, including a pile of decaying logs and tree
stumps to provide homes for rare beetles, small mammals, and
overwintering amphibians, such as frogs and toads. The traditional-
style building is built entirely from sustainably sourced cedar, and
features a green roof planted with sedum species. Research shows
that green roofs help to insulate buildings and keep them cool when
temperatures rise, reducing the need for heating and air-conditioning.
They also attract beneficial insects when the plants are in flower.

Eco-friendly building with

an insulating green roof

Harmonious design
The gravel path that
weaves through Stephen
Hall’s garden and around
the pond allows visitors
to enjoy the different
plants and features close
up, and integrates
perfectly into this
naturalistic setting.

Nectar-rich planting attracts

beneficial insects

Gravel, pebbles, and boulders

suit the natural style

Wildlife pool attracts insects,

birds, and small mammals

3 Rainwater harvesting
However small, rain barrels
are an excellent way to catch
4 Rustic garden furniture
Wherever possible, support your
local economy by commissioning a
5 Recycling features
The recycling of organic waste
through composting is vital. Several
6 Naturalistic ponds
Wildlife ponds with sloping
sides that allow easy access, and
and store rainwater. If you need craftsman close to home to make compost bins may be required in margins planted to provide cover,
something with a larger capacity, your furniture. All products should order to maintain and rotate supply. offer a natural habitat for aquatic
underground storage and pump be made from responsibly sourced, Think carefully about their location, as creatures, as well as birds and
mechanisms are available. natural materials. they need regular access. insects, such as dragonflies.
220/221 Choosing a style
NATURAL GARDENS

Interpreting the style

A natural garden can follow a formal layout, but most are
informal, with relaxed planting drifts and apparently random
mixes of grasses and perennials, indigenous trees, and shrubs.
You can then organize these into habitats, such as wetland,
meadow, or woodland, and use recycled materials, sourced
locally or from renewable plantations, and permeable paving.

△△ Desert oasis △ Ideal match

American designer Steve Martino produces For a successful meadow, it is essential to
elegant and Modernistic gardens in the match planting to the environment. Here,
Arizona desert, using billowing natives the elegant nodding heads of Fritillaria
and drought-tolerant species, interspersed meleagris suggest damp conditions.
with key plants such as Agave.
▷ Sleek combination
△ Bird haven Diffused mixes of meadow or prairie
Feeders and bird tables will help attract perennials and grasses provide a perfect
wildlife, especially during harsh winters foil to sharply detailed contemporary
when food sources may be scarce. architecture, existing happily side by side.
 “Natural gardens offer food
and habitats for beneficial
insects and other wildlife”

GARDENS TO VISIT
THE BETH CHATTO GARDENS, Essex, UK
Gardens developed on ecological principles.
bethchatto.co.uk

LONDON WETLAND CENTRE,

London, UK
A network of ponds and interactive features.
wwt.org.uk/wetland-centres/london

WEIHENSTEPHAN UNIVERSITY GARDEN,

Freising, Germany △◁ Waterside planting
Pond margins provide one of the richest garden habitats,
Where the New Perennial Movement began. bringing together aquatic, marginal, moisture-loving, and
hswt.de/en/weihenstephan-gardens dry planting designs. Keep planting groups large and
associations simple for the best results.
BOTANICAL GARDENS, University of
Göettingen, Germany ◁ Lasting interest
Sown prairie planting mixes, typically combining
Ecological and habitat-based gardens. Echinacea and Rudbeckia with grasses such as Panicum,
uni-goettingen.de/en/108651.html provide an effective display and long season of interest.

WESTPARK, Munich, Germany △△ Safe habitat

This public park includes the herbaceous A simple timber structure provides dry storage for logs,
an important habitat for overwintering insects.
drift and steppe planting of Rosemary Weisse.
muenchen.de △ Mixed species
Allowing native plants to colonize among meadow
grasses aids the conservation of species endangered
through urban development or intensive farming.
222/223 NATURAL GARDENS
Choosing a style

CASE STUDY

WILD ONE Insect hotels

These dry-stone walls not only
Roosting sites
This small copse of white-
break up the space, injecting stemmed birch trees (Betula
Blending wildflowers, ornamental plants, a small
eye-catching sculptural forms, utilis var. jacquemontii) offers
woodland, and recycled materials, this design shows but they are also designed as a home for birds to roost
how a natural garden can also look sophisticated insect hotels, with ready-made and nest, while ferns and
nest holes, cracks, and crevices other shade-tolerant plants
and exciting, while offering a range of habitats for for solitary bees and other below offer further habitats
birds, beneficial insects, and other forms of wildlife. beneficial insects to inhabit. for small creatures.
 Designer Nigel Dunnett
Show RHS Chelsea Flower Show
Award Silver-gilt Medal

Beneficial planting Upcycled office Flood defense

A mix of wildflowers, nectar- Creating a dramatic statement, A series of shallow, linked
rich ornamentals, such as the this stylish outdoor office is pools form the reservoirs
orange Geum ‘Prinses Juliana’, made from an old shipping of a “storm-water chain”
and hen ‘n’ chicks (Sempervivum) container. The circular panel drainage system, designed
on the tops of the walls, offers decorations are filled with to capture excess rainwater
plenty of visual interest and cones, bits of wood, and after a heavy downpour to
food for the bees, and is low- bamboo canes, which provide prevent it running off the
maintenance once established. further homes for insects. garden and causing flooding.
224/225 Choosing a style
NATURAL GARDENS

Natural garden plans

To keep their varied planting in some order, many natural gardens have quite structured layouts, and despite
their abundant and seemingly uncontrolled appearances, the gardens designed by Nigel Dunnett and James
Barton, shown here, are held together with well-defined lines and shapes. They also include water, which
provides an important habitat for many types of wildlife, and permeable hard-landscaping surfaces.
Deck made from reused
railway ties
Practicing what you preach
Nigel Dunnett is a Professor at the University of Sheffield and a Deck extends in front
landscape designer. He is renowned for his research into sustainable of timber shed
planting and urban drainage systems, and this small garden, which
sits on a north-facing slope, puts many of his findings into practice.
Key ingredients Nigel says:
1 Euphorbia palustris “I wanted to create a woodland glade,
Concrete
2 Geranium sylvaticum with closely planted birch forming a light building-block path
canopy and linking with the surrounding
3 Lonicera periclymenum ‘Serotina’
countryside. Clipped hornbeam hedges
4 Green roof provide enclosure and structure alongside
5 Euonymus alatus ‘Compactus’ softer successional planting.”
6 Astilbe chinensis var. taquetii “Perennials form a dense ground
‘Purpurlanze’ cover, almost eliminating the need for
7 Caltha palustris weeding. The planting is 50 percent
natives and 50 percent cultivated garden
8 Acorus calamus
plants—together they give almost
year-round color. The pond is filled with Reused flagstone
run-off from the paved surfaces and helps path
to manage the drainage in the garden,
which has been a huge success.” Bridge over circular pond
Compact sustainability
Dr. James Barton and his wife developed the design of their
sustainable garden in Westphalia, Germany, over a number of
years. The garden is modest in size, yet includes a rich range of
planting—ornamental and native species, selected for interest and
their ability to thrive as good neighbors, are intermingled. A system
of pathways provides easy access to them.
Key ingredients We have structured the spaces with
1 Nymphaea alba beech and box hedges, or with fences,
2 Iris sibirica and we have also created a range of small,
informal seating areas to provide different
3 Fagus sylvatica views through the garden. In the main,
4 Angelica archangelica we use perennials and shrubs, with some
5 Carpinus betulus annuals added as necessary to provide
6 Lychnis flos-cuculi splashes of color.”
“For inspiration, we have visited many
James says: open gardens, primarily in the Netherlands
“In its early days, this was a family garden, and southern England. However, we were
but since our children left home it has originally inspired by a visit to a small
evolved into something else.” private garden in Germany, the owner of
“We develop areas as we gain new which was the president of a local society,
ideas, but the basic layout of the garden, the Gesellschaft der Staudenfreunde, of Timber bench, Paths made from granite, Dense planting
as a series of ‘rooms,’ remains the same. perennial plant enthusiasts.” made from reclaimed when local around pool offers
recycled wood streets were repaved habitats for wildlife
Urban gardens

Gardens have always had a presence in cities, but since the late 19th century, when urban
populations began to increase dramatically, they have taken on an ever more important role
as relaxing oases. City gardens are generally small spaces, and though there are plenty of ways
to design them successfully, simplicity usually produces the best results.
Many urban garden designers, keen to use space efficiently, employ plans based on squares
and rectangles that fit snugly into the shape of small, regular-shaped plots. Other designers
organize layouts on the diagonal, which can make an area seem larger. Free forms are also
increasingly popular as urban designers become more experimental.
But whatever their size or shape, modern city gardens should be
flexible, since they may have to offer areas for play, as well as for
outdoor dining, entertaining, and relaxation. A simple palette of
hard-landscaping materials creates clean, practical surfaces, while
careful planting along the boundaries can increase privacy.
Lighting is an essential addition to these architectural spaces. It can
emphasize both the hard landscaping and the planting, as well as
extend the garden’s use after dark.
In small urban gardens, planting is often restricted to a handful of
high-performing plants used to create interest all year round, with
vertical planting, in the form of climbers and wall shrubs, softening the Repetition of forms adds impact.

edges. Owners of city gardens can

also try their hand at growing
vegetables, fruit, and herbs, using
containers and pots to create a mini
allotment. Some urban garden
designers also choose to minimize
open spaces in favor of dense
planting and a complex range of
plant species, which can increase
the feeling of seclusion and privacy.
Architectural minimalism, a
proliferation of plants, or both?
You decide. A neat mix of materials offers contrasts in color and texture.
228/229 Choosing a style
URBAN GARDENS

What is urban style?

Today’s city gardens have to work hard, providing space for planting, relaxation, play, and
entertaining. As the high price of land in urban areas has squeezed the size of yards, new ideas for
small spaces have emerged. Approaches vary, but most urban gardens are treated either as functional
spaces or as green oases—both offer a private escape or retreat from hectic city life. In the former,
hard surfaces dominate, creating a stage for multiple uses. Architectural treatments to boundary
walls, furniture, and water features create elegant “rooms,” often lit after dark to create extensions
to the home. In the latter, planting dominates, often taking over areas that could have been used for
entertainment or play. This intensive planting approach benefits the keen urban gardener, who may
even use the space as a productive vegetable garden.

Urban style in detail

The urban garden layout needs a simple, clear geometry. Planting
similarly needs careful thought, as space is limited—the trend has
been for fewer species that work harder seasonally, providing
architectural or sculptural interest. Grasses and large-leaved foliage
plants are popular with designers of this style.
In many city gardens, sliding or folding doors create a seamless
transition between interior and exterior “rooms,” extending the
living area. Paved or decked surfaces help to increase functional
space; materials are often selected to match interior finishes, further
unifying indoors and outdoors. Pergolas or pleached trees offer
privacy in overlooked minimalist spaces, while dense planting can
achieve the same effect in more naturalistic urban gardens.
Sculpture provides a focal point, often combined with water
used in jets or cascades rather than pools. Built-in seating fits
architecturally, but can limit the flexibility of the garden. Stylish
furniture and identical containers in a row add drama and rhythm.

Gravel infill Simple bench Pleached trees

around slabs

City garden
Here, garden designer
Philip Nixon has created
a simple but decorative
plan with timber-clad
walls complementing
the furniture, and folding
doors that lead out
from the house (right).
Planting is a mix of
perennials, grasses,
and evergreens, with
the addition of tall
pleached hornbeams,
which provide
valuable screening.

Slate slabs A row of potted grasses

 DESIGN INFLUENCES
Evocative of country gardens, early urban garden, even covering low-
city designs were often heavily planted maintenance designs.
and complex in layout. Today, they More than a century later, John
have become much simpler. Brookes published a series of successful
In 1839, J.C. Loudon—the Scottish books that, like Loudon before him,
botanist, garden designer, and garden addressed designs for smaller plots, and
magazine editor—responded to explored the idea of the “outdoor room.”
increasing urbanization and the More recently, the Japanese have led
diminishing size of city gardens in the way in designing tiny outdoor spaces.
his book The Suburban Gardener and In their densely populated cities, balconies
Villa Companion. In it, he classified or light wells are often the only areas
different designs for the small available for planting.
A John Brookes design for a London garden.

Key design elements

1 Dramatic
containers
Clay, stone, or steel plant
containers are often
repeated for effect. Fill
them with clipped box
or—for a softer, more
informal look—a mix of
perennials and grasses.

2 Sculptural
furniture
Artfully designed
furniture—in the shape of
bespoke built-in benches,
coordinated tables and
chairs, or recliners—gives
the garden focus and
answers a functional need.

3 Lighting
With the
introduction of
low-voltage and
LED systems, lighting
has become more
sophisticated. Use it to
emphasize your garden’s
contours and plants.

4 Pleached trees
In overlooked
city gardens, pleached
trees (which look like
hedges on stilts) provide
privacy while using little
floor space. Use lime,
hornbeam, or evergreen
holly oak.

5 Stylish materials
Designers often
employ a mix of materials
to maximize texture and
interest. Both natural and
man-made materials,
such as concrete, glass,
and steel, are popular.
230/231 Choosing a style
URBAN GARDENS

Interpreting the style

If hard surfaces for outdoor living dominate, planting has to
work harder to compensate. Choose simple, bold architectural
combinations that are stylish and easily maintained. Lighting,
strategically placed, will flatter the space in the evening. For
densely planted areas, keep paving simple, using strong textural
foliage and color as a foil to the built-up environment.

△△ Soothing retreat △△ Geometrical harmony

Vertical or wall planting optimizes the restricted space, The decorative grid of paving reinforces the soft lawn
while retaining a softening effect. A textured panel of surface, while the simple, rectilinear geometry of the
basalt provides sound as water trickles over the surface. garden and its planting complement the house.

△ Formal welcome △ A place to entertain

Here, box hedging defines dense foliage planting that Raised beds also provide informal seats for relaxing
softens the paved areas. Pleached trees obscure the around the fireplace. The mix of ornamental grasses
outline of the surrounding buildings and create privacy. and alliums creates a diffuse screen between two areas.
 “As space diminishes, the
urban garden becomes an
increasingly precious resource”

GARDENS TO VISIT
RHS CHELSEA FLOWER SHOW, London, UK
Contains a section of gardens designed for
urban situations. Held in May of each year.
www.rhs.org.uk/chelsea

KENSINGTON ROOF GARDENS, London, UK

Located on top of a Grade II listed building in
the heart of a busy London street.
www.roofgardens.com

THE NGS YELLOW BOOK, UK

A comprehensive list of many privately-owned
urban gardens open to the public.
www.ngs.org.uk

THE GARDENS OF APPELTERN, Holland

△△ Hidden gem A range of gardens, including urban style.
A suspended canopy adds style and privacy to a seating www.appeltern.nl
area. Planting is minimal and restricted to containers,
tonally linking to the cushions on the benches. PALEY PARK, 53rd Street, New York, NY
△ Outside living One of New York’s famous pocket-handkerchief
A room outside in which to eat and relax, with extra spaces offering cooling water and shade.
seating provided by the raised beds. Water spilling from www.pps.org
the wall and over the slabs creates a sensuous sound.
232/233 Choosing a style
URBAN GARDENS

CASE STUDY

HIDDEN DEPTHS Eye-level intimacy

The sunken seating area is
City shades
Gray stone paving creates
surrounded by raised beds a contemporary look. It is
This sunken garden maximizes the sense of space in
that bring the planting up to made from a traditional
a compact urban plot by introducing different height eye level, achieving a sense of material, but the color—
levels, while the edges of the hard landscaping are intimacy with nature in an which reflects the urban
urban setting. Different levels landscape—brings it up to
softened by restful planting that relies on contrasting also partly conceal the space date, while creating a foil
leaf shapes, colors, and textures. to create a sense of discovery. for the plants’ foliage.
 Designer Paul Hervey-Brookes
Show RHS Chelsea Flower Show
Award Gold Medal

Calm contrasts Stylish furnishings Secret spaces

The textural planting blends a Dressing a garden to suit your Solid screens reinforce a feeling
range of leafy plants, such as taste helps to personalize the of privacy and help to shield the
Epimedium and grass-like Libertia, space. The seats here are social space of the garden from
with a sprinkling of floral interest perfect for two people to neighboring properties. Tall
from the likes of Aquilegia and relax in, away from the noise shrubs and perennials are used
Anthriscus sylvestris ‘Ravenswing’. of the city beyond, while the to lightly veil other areas of the
The restrained color scheme bold red and gray cushions garden, affording glimpses
creates a tranquil effect. add a contemporary note. through to tempt in visitors.
234/235 Choosing a style
URBAN GARDENS

Urban garden plans

Small gardens demand big ideas, and in their designs for these two city plots, Andy Sturgeon and Sam Joyce
have certainly delivered. Andy has found a clever solution to the particular problems that a roof garden
presents—such as an overall weight limit, and increased exposure to the elements for plants and people.
Sam has made the most of a very small plot with a useful, yet uncluttered and colorful design.

Up on the roof Integrated bench

In a restricted city space, this rooftop garden by Andy Sturgeon seat and raised
bed for plants
makes excellent use of the great outdoors. The low-maintenance
design creates an extra room in which to entertain, with materials Hardwood and
stainless steel
providing the focus and simple planting offering shelter and privacy. table and chairs

Key ingredients Combining it with fire proved a particularly

1 Fargesia rufa complex detail to resolve.”
2 Iroko bench “I normally design larger spaces that
are not so minimal, but my approach to
3 Astelia chathamica this project suited the client and the Steel structure
4 Gas-fired flambeaux rooftop location, and I enjoyed responding to hold canvas
to the challenge. More specifically, the canopy
Andy says: client wanted to be able to sit outside in
“This space suited the client, who was all weather, hence the canopy and the
young and enjoyed entertaining friends, water, fire, and bench combination.”
but wasn’t interested in gardening.” “I call upon a wide range of inspirations,
“The water became the focus of the from shop-window treatments to
garden. It is very shallow, to reduce the contemporary art, and find this input
amount of weight on the roof, but highly particularly useful in urban situations.”
reflective to excite and entrance.
Existing concrete tiles Hardwood decking
Tiny retreat
When designing a small area, you have to make a very short wish list
of uses and then prioritize: what is essential and what can you do
without? In this suburban backyard, Sam Joyce’s choices were
limited, but she responded to her client’s main request for room
to entertain and relax with a fitted seating area, a simple deck that Ipe hardwood decking
offers space for extra chairs to be brought out from the house, and
statement plants to soften the lines without cluttering up the garden.
Key ingredients community in this area, and neighbors
1 Trachelospermum jasminoides regularly socialize in each other’s gardens.”
“The bench provides seating for several The pergola is made of
2 Miscanthus sinensis steel uprights with Balau
guests, and doubles as a sun chair. It
3 Musa basjoo also helps to disguise the various utilities
hardwood cross beams
4 Buxus sempervirens in the garden, and creates a colorful
5 Electric wall light contrast for the planters filled with box
6 Heuchera ‘Plum Pudding’ balls behind it. The white wall comes
alive with the silhouettes of the plants The bench is concrete
in front of it when the garden is lit at blockwork with painted
Sam says: (masonry paint) render
“This is a very small yard attached to night, and this architectural planting
a Victorian terraced house. The client is a adds impact to the low-maintenance
single professional with grown-up children design during the day.”
who live away from home, and the space
was to be used primarily for relaxing and
entertaining—there is a strong sense of
Country gardens

For centuries, people living in cities have been tantalized by a romantic vision of a garden
in the country. Today, improved transportation and highways have made it possible to work in
town but return to the country on a daily or weekly basis, and the dream of a country garden
has become a reality for many.
In the 18th century, the Landscape Movement turned from classical formality to more natural
designs, and the country garden idyll was born. The style was later developed by the Arts and
Crafts designers during the Edwardian period, and it now refers
generally to large, heavily planted gardens, often split into a range
of smaller spaces. Areas for pleasure may include swimming pools,
tennis courts, lawns, and terraces for entertaining. Orchards,
woodland, meadows, or lakes provide habitats for wildlife, as well
as vantage points to view the landscape beyond.
For designers, it is the scale of these gardens that presents a
challenge. The most effective layouts tend to favor rectilinear
formality close to the house, with increasing informality and
curvilinear geometry as you move through the garden.
Golden spikes of Kniphofia provide
Planting is also generally formal around the house, terraces, color and structure.

and main lawns, but becomes more naturalistic toward the

boundaries. Natural stone or brick are typical paving
materials, although concrete may be appropriate for the
modern country house. Farther from the house, gravel is often
used, with grass paths taking over in the wider landscape.
Views and vistas are enhanced and exploited, while
features, such as stone seats, pergolas, ornamental pools,
and sculpture, are important as destinations and help to
define the garden landscape. Hedges contain garden
spaces or define views, and tree-lined avenues are also
effective if space allows.
Taking inspiration from the past and infusing it with
innovative contemporary ideas, country garden style
Stone steps and a narrow waterfall lead to a
continues to evolve. tranquil pool with Pontederia.
238/239 Choosing a style
COUNTRY GARDENS

What is country style? DESIGN INFLUENCES

In the 1870s, the English designer
The advantage of a country garden is the ample space it William Robinson revolutionized
attitudes to gardening with softer,
affords, which can accommodate a range of areas and more naturalistic planting that
planting schemes. The designer’s challenge is to bring combined exotics and native
species. Through his writing and
together the various elements in a coherent composition. the gardens he developed at
Formal symmetry often dominates the styling close to the Gravetye Manor, he influenced
prominent designers such as
house, with more informal spaces in the outlying garden, Gertrude Jekyll, Vita Sackville-
moving from man-made features to natural landscapes. West, and Beatrix Farrand.
Later gardens by Thomas
These different areas are linked with paths and visitors Church and Dan Kiley relied on
are led by focal points, viewing areas, and resting places. the manipulation of space and
links to the landscape. They used
existing or native planting to
create harmonious designs and
Country style in detail William Robinson’s a much simpler palette.
Many large country gardens are exposed to wind, which can seriously natural style.
limit or damage plant growth, sometimes even preventing the plants’
establishment altogether. Consequently, windbreak planting is frequently
the first element to be introduced, but this can obscure surrounding
views. Compromises have to be made, often producing limited or
narrow vistas, yet this restriction forces designers to evaluate views
and different perspectives carefully, which can increase the drama.
Hedges provide soft structure within the garden, creating rooms
in traditional-style gardens or independent screens in more
contemporary designs. Hard paving materials are generally used near
the main property, with routes through the garden in more economical
gravel. Planting designs have to be appropriate for the large scale.
Lawns often cover the greatest area, but meadows with mown
paths or prairie planting provide more texture and seasonal color.
Woodland and lakes also offer a variety of experiences and habitats.

Curved concrete wall Boulders for structure

Country contrast
Here, Andy Sturgeon uses
concrete, decking, and
bound gravel paths to
create a fluid transition
between level changes in
this contemporary country
garden in Kent, UK (right).
Large boulders stand out
against the soft sweeps of
planting beyond. Grasses
provide movement and
light in the deep planting
beds, and wide boundary
hedges screen views of
neighboring properties.

Bound gravel path

meanders through
the garden

Decked walkway Lawn links

adds texture planting and paths
Key design elements

1 Luxuriant
planting
Extensive borders
2 Large pools and
streams
Natural springs may
3 Views into the
landscape
The garden experience
provide the opportunity provide the basis for can be dramatically
for dynamic planting, ponds and streams, enriched by linking it to
using color and texture but they can be the landscape. Long,
in drifts or en masse. introduced artificially narrow views, which
Meadow-style planting to create reflective open up to a wide
is also used for its surfaces and wildlife natural panorama
potential wildlife value habitats, or for new beyond, produce
and decorative aspects. planting opportunities. spectacular effects.

4 Sweeping lawns
Lawns are used both
as a functional surface
5 Hedging and
screens
Hedges define space
6 Natural
materials
Local stone that
and as a decorative foil and control views. Yew weathers to produce
to more textured or produces a dark, dense varied surface textures,
colorful planting. Lawns backdrop that is perfect such as sandstone, is
and grass pathways for colorful borders. often seen in traditional
should be as wide and Low box hedges are country gardens. A
open as possible, as ideal for parterres, and more contemporary
the surface can wear mixed hedges work well quality is produced with
with heavy use. on a larger scale. concrete and decking.
240/241 Choosing a style
COUNTRY GARDENS

Interpreting the style

There has recently been a move away from complex mixed
border designs to a more limited planting palette, such as the
architectural hedges and monocultures typical of Jacques Wirtz’s
designs, or the large drifts of color evident in the work of Piet
Oudolf. Both designers rely on the movement and light-capturing
qualities of grasses, which provide a long season of interest.

△△ Graphic design △ Painting with flowers

Rows of clipped hedges and billowing Christopher Lloyd experimented with vivid
grasses are interspersed with the white color in his garden at Great Dixter, shown
trunks of closely planted birches, creating above. He combined clashing pinks and
strong shadow patterns, rhythm, and reds, flouting conventional color theory.
movement. The simple palette of green
foliage plants emphasizes line and texture.

▷ Fall glory
The mahogany seedheads of Phlomis
stand out against the green, silver, and
bronze mounds of grasses and perennials
in these stunning deep borders.
◁ Exuberant border ▷ Catching the light
Splashes of color illuminate this haze These graceful borders, planted with a
of planting and emerge skyward adding mix of golden feathery grasses and eye-
vertical interest. Transparent veils of grasses catching red Sedum, encircle this sunny
and perennials create the romance. seating area with movement and light.

▽ Mirror image ▽▷ Virtuoso planting

The glassy surface of the pond is the main In his own garden, Piet Oudolf mixes
feature in this garden. Marginal planting broad masses of color with drifts of
is restrained to maximize the reflections, grasses to create a soft meadow effect.
and the terrace provides easy access to The wave-clipped yew hedges provide
the water’s edge for outdoor entertaining. a contrast in architectural form.

GARDENS TO VISIT
BORDE HILL, West Sussex, UK
Combines many different garden and
planting styles, including water gardens.
bordehill.co.uk

GREAT DIXTER, East Sussex, UK

Inspiring garden that uses color creatively.
greatdixter.co.uk

HESTERCOMBE, Somerset, UK
A garden by Edwin Lutyens and Gertrude
Jekyll, plus an 18th-century landscape garden.
hestercombe.com

KIFTSGATE COURT, Gloucestershire, UK

An outstanding 20th-century garden.
kiftsgate.co.uk

“The luxury of space ROUSHAM PARK HOUSE, Oxfordshire , UK

William Kent’s early 18th-century
masterpiece. rousham.org

and abundant planting SCAMPSTON HALL, Yorkshire, UK

Includes Piet Oudolf’s dazzling walled garden.

create the magic”

scampston.co.uk
242/243 COUNTRY GARDENS
Choosing a style

CASE STUDY

UPDATED COUNTRY Elegant borders

Despite its modern design, the
Sculptural focus
The modern piece of
planting is firmly rooted in the figurative sculpture brings
For some, a country garden is traditional, formal, and
past. Roses, such as the red a contemporary note to
large; this garden proves otherwise, mixing many of ‘Chianti’, provide old-fashioned the traditional setting, a
the style’s key ingredients—such as burgeoning scent, alongside pink foxgloves focal point that helps lead
(Digitalis purpurea), geraniums, the eye along the path and
flower borders, lawns, and sculpture—into a clean, and blue salvias, to form a presents a destination to
contemporary design in a relatively small space. traditional country border. draw in the visitor.
 Designer Jo Thompson
Show RHS Chelsea Flower Show
Award Gold Medal

Verdant lawn New perspectives Hidden secrets

A lawn is an essential element The curved pathway through Few country gardens reveal
of country garden style and the the garden is echoed by the all the interest and features
soft grass is married here with a false-perspective bench, which they possess in one go. This
tidal rill, designed to emulate a is wider at one end to create garden uses the same trick,
sparkling stream. While a lawn the illusion of greater length. offering glimpses through
suggests formality, its oval shape The curves contrast with trees and borders of areas yet
and rill edging provides a link bronze upright fins along the to be discovered, as the visitor
with the natural landscape. boundary, which add drama. journeys through the space.
244/245 Choosing a style
COUNTRY GARDENS

Country garden plans

The expansive nature of country gardens gives designers room to luxuriate in planting. The first of these two
examples is open to the public and was designed by Piet Oudolf—the influential Dutch designer, nurseryman,
and author, who is also a leading figure of the “New Perennial” movement. The second, by Fiona Lawrenson,
is a private space where the plants, although just as abundant, feel a little more contained.

Garden meadows
Piet Oudolf’s garden for Sir Charles and Lady Legard at Scampston Handmade
brick edging
Hall in Yorkshire, UK is one of his most arresting. It mixes formal
elements with drifts of grasses and perennial flowers—Piet’s
signature planting, which injects dramatic seasonal impact.
Key ingredients Piet says:
1 Achillea ‘Summerwine’ “The garden at Scampston covers about
2 Rudbeckia occidentalis four acres and sits within protective walls. Original
It used to be a working garden, but my stone edging
3 Monarda ‘Scorpion’ surrounds the
clients wanted to create a contemporary
4 Phlomis russeliana space rather than a reconstruction.” old dipping
5 Echinacea pallida pond
“I worked with the large scale of the
6 Stachys officinalis ‘Hummelo’ garden to create something of interest to the
7 Panicum virgatum ‘Rehbraun’ visiting public, so not all of the planting is
8 Salvia x sylvestris ‘Mainacht’ typical of what I do. I aimed to link the past
with the present by using formal elements,
such as hedges and clipped specimens,
between more relaxed perennials.”
“I am influenced by contemporary
architecture, art, and nature; and I think
that, at Scampston, there is interest in Golden gravel pathways Paths lead into
both the planting and the strong design.” center of planting
Stepping out Two large,
circular lawns
In this large garden designed by Fiona Lawrenson, stepped, circular provide a
lawns provide an elegant transition from the terrace outside the soft, lush link
between the
house to the main garden. Planting surrounds these circles, softening house and
main garden
their geometry—a key quality in the country garden.
Key ingredients the wide circular steps gradually turning
1 Rosa ‘Rambling Rector’ to take advantage of the view. Originally Flint panels
2 Salvia nemorosa EAST FRIESLAND there was a narrow path and a vertical clad the brick
drop down into the main garden, so the retaining walls,
3 Sambucus racemosa ‘Plumosa Aurea’ new terrace and steps created space and and echo details
4 Campanula poscharskyana a link into the main garden.” on the house
5 Centranthus ruber “The owners were a young family who
6 Acanthus spinosus needed usable space and wanted a spot
from which they could enjoy views of the
Fiona says: setting sun, hence the ‘gin’ terrace.” Gravel viewing
terrace
“This Hampshire, UK property has an “I like to link a house with its surrounding
old-fashioned country pedigree—Jane landscape through its garden, and I am
Austen used to live nearby and visited strongly influenced by the architecture I
regularly to collect milk. Its garden stands work with. But plants are my first love, so The bricks used
for the steps
on a south-facing hillside with views they take center stage. This garden’s match the color
across a valley, and I wanted to create a bedrock is chalk with heavy clay soil on of those on
gentle descent into it from the house, with top, and its planting suits these conditions.” the house
Cutting-edge gardens

Influenced by art as much as horticulture, cutting-edge gardens break design conventions and
free up designers to make their own set of rules. Conceptual gardens, which are often based on
an idea or theme, fit into this category and examples can be seen at various festivals around the
world, including RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show in the UK, Chaumont-sur-Loire in France,
and Reford Gardens in Métis, Canada. Cutting-edge design can also be used to describe any
contemporary garden that does not fit neatly into a more conventional style.
Many cutting-edge designs celebrate new technologies and employ man-made materials,
such as concrete, steel, rubber, fabric, glass, and acrylic, to create impact and visual interest.
Lighting is also used to great effect in many of these gardens.
Planting is not intrinsic to a successful cutting-edge garden, but can support the overall
message conveyed by the design. When used, planting is often included
for its sculptural qualities, and may also emphasize color, texture, and
movement. For some designers, ideas are inspired by ecology or the
environment, and their gardens may feature plants that showcase a
particular place or habitat.
Design concepts can be applied on a whim, but the best results are
achieved where there is a relationship between the garden, its location,
and the personality of its owner, or its history and cultural significance.
Architectural foliage and
Key figures in cutting-edge design include the landscape architects flowers provide focal points.
Martha Schwartz and Kathryn
Gustafson, who have both created
ground-breaking gardens. Land art
has also been influential in the
evolution of this style. Examples
include the works of Richard Long
and Andy Goldsworthy; both
designers are renowned for their
natural sculptures, which form part of
the landscape and intensify visitors’
experience of a place. Manufactured materials are mixed with natural elements.
248/249 Choosing a style
CUTTING-EDGE GARDENS

What is cutting-
edge style?
This style is a mix, sometimes accidental, but often
deliberate, drawing from a wide range of genres.
Short-lived and more experimental, show gardens
offer a platform for these eclectic creations and
allow designers the freedom to innovate. Color,
sculpture, and garden art provide focal points and
interest, while planting often focuses on architectural
specimens and lighting adds to the drama.

Cutting-edge gardens in detail

Rendered walls are typical of this style, as they provide backdrops or
surfaces on which art and sculpture can be displayed. Color, usually
intense and bold, is also important, creating a vibrant atmosphere.
A wide range of materials are associated with the style, and in some
gardens the combinations can be quite complex. Designers often use
a mixture of man-made and natural surfaces, such as concrete and
timber, or stone and steel, and by keeping the overall plan simple,
these textural contrasts are more clearly appreciated.
Furniture is frequently used to express particular architectural
or stylistic references, or it may also introduce color. Sculptural
plants add scale and drama, and are sometimes repeated to amplify
ideas. In addition, colorful and textural planting is a common feature,
with containers used to reinforce stylistic concepts.

Simple lawn

Modern synthesis
This design by Steve
Martino (above right)
combines the rectilinear
geometry of Modernism
with architectural DESIGN INFLUENCES
succulents and dry, This style borrows from a
desert-style planting. range of ideas with energy and
The curved steel plates
add drama to the pool, confidence. Travel, a shrinking
Cacti are focal creating shadows and world, and the Internet have
points close light play both during opened up access to a wide
to the house
the day and after dark. range of plants, materials,
and influences—from jungle
planting to Japanese gravel,
Modernism to Mediterranean,
and formal to conceptual style.
This gazebo by Michael Schultz
and Will Goodman uses
Mixed flowerbed
Japanese elements with Art
Deco and Post-Modernist
overtones. The personality
of the resulting designs may
not please the purists, but
cutting-edge style is all about
Large pavers The Hurst garden by Schultz Goodman.
create feeling Water feature adds
breaking the rules.
of space color and sound
Key design elements

1 Modern
materials
Cutting-edge designs
2 Sculptural plants
Although a wide
variety of plants are
3 Water cascades
and fountains
Cascades, fountains,
often include materials used in cutting-edge and water blades—
that are not traditionally gardens, many have controlled by a smart
associated with gardens, sculptural qualities— phone to produce
such as glass, steel, and grasses, Yucca, or Astelia complex displays—
acrylic, with planting are typical, and palms provide movement,
softening the lines. are used for height. atmosphere, and sound.

4 Lighting
Light effects are key
style devices, picking up
5 Eclectic
floor plan
The mixing of styles can
6 Vibrant colors
Bold colors are often
used in surface finishes
architectural details, produce interesting and to make connections
specimen plants, and complex layouts, with between plants and
decorative topiary. The Modernist designs hard materials. Rendered
development of lighting mixed with drought walls, ceramics, paving
technology and LEDs gravel planting, or and lighting can all
produces spectacular formality combined contribute color and
results and can also with the asymmetry drama while creating
inject additional color. of Japanese gardens. an exciting ambience.
250/251 Choosing a style
CUTTING-EDGE GARDENS

Interpreting the style

Designing cutting-edge gardens is a liberating and fun experience, where
rules can be rewritten. Color can be a controlling element, with rich or
strident tones making clear connections between materials and planting.
Also try using irregular shapes and mix solid materials with transparent
glass or acrylic to create a bold, unique design.

△ Bedrock of design ▷ Playing with the elements

Like a geological phenomenon, these In his garden of sculptural Jura limestone,
angled layers of red sandstone rise out Peter Latz uses fog as a device with which
of a pond and are juxtaposed with dry, to create a sense of mystery. Its wisps veil
Mediterranean planting combinations and reveal the stone forms in turn.
with glaucous foliage.
▷▷ Golden brown
◁ Solid seating This graveled courtyard space is unified
A touch of the interior design is brought by striking color and strong shadows.
to this outdoor terrace, with its concrete The simple grove of Mexican fan palms
seating and coffee table. Planting softens (Washingtonia robusta) creates a
the effect in places, and cushions would brilliant connection with the modern
make the furniture more comfortable. Mexican architecture, too.
 “Cutting-edge designs mix up
conventional ideas and bend
◁ True blue
Claude Cormier’s Blue Stick
garden was inspired by
Meconopsis betonicifolia
the rules of garden-making”
(blue poppy). Two sides of
each stick are blue and two
red, creating different effects.

△Water and earth

Water gently cascades over this ledge, cantilevered
from a rendered wall, and into the trough below,
creating an oasis in this desert garden. The warm
earth-tones echo the sandy soil and glow in the sun.

◁ Blocks and undulations

White concrete cubes are counterpoints to the turf
that ripples across this garden. They create a sculpted
quality that offsets the stark walls of the house.

GARDENS TO VISIT
RHS HAMPTON COURT PALACE
FLOWER SHOW, UK
Show with a section of conceptual gardens.
rhs.org.uk/hamptoncourt

GARDEN OF AUSTRALIAN DREAMS,

Canberra, Australia
Richard Weller and Vladimir Sitta’s garden.
nma.gov.au

FESTIVAL OF GARDENS
Chaumont-sur-Loire, France
domaine-chaumont.fr

CORNERSTONE, Sonoma, CA
Regularly changing showcase of innovative
design. cornerstonesonoma.com/gardens
252/253 CUTTING-EDGE GARDENS
Choosing a style

CASE STUDY

DESIGN FUSION Natural structure

Evergreen trees, including the
Prehistoric slabs
The seemingly random floor
holly oak (Quercus ilex) and plan and irregular-shaped
Fusing a range of styles, from Mediterranean to
strawberry tree (Arbutus paving stones throw out the
Modernist, this cutting-edge garden weaves Jurassic unedo), lend structure and a design rule book. They help to
period inspirations into a harmonious design, with sense of permanence to the evoke a rugged landscape that
garden, while other hardy references the earth’s tectonic
large metal structures—inspired by the bony back exotic trees with finely-cut plates as they collide to form
plates of a stegosaurus—defining the space. foliage soften the look. new geological features.
 Designer Andy Sturgeon
Show RHS Chelsea Flower Show
Award Gold Medal and Best in Show

Bridging the gap Steel screens Artful planting

The pathway in the garden steps Bronze-coated steel slabs stand The planting seems informal, even
up to form a bridge across the proud, cutting dramatic shapes “shaggy” in parts, but this belies a
water, giving the impression that resemble a dinosaur’s back considered approach. Sculptural
that the water has been here plates, and providing a focus plants, such as Corokia x virgata
for a long time and the paving along the perimeter of the with its tangle of black stems,
is a new addition. In other areas, garden. They also present a foil jostle with colorful perennials,
stone slab-like benches suggest to the firepit and create hidden including the fiery orange
ancient rock formations. areas that heighten the intrigue. kangaroo paw (Anigozanthos).
254/255 CUTTING-EDGE GARDENS
Choosing a style

Cutting-edge garden plans

Gardens that use a range of stylistic references can easily become confused, yet these spaces by Paul
Cooper and Tony Heywood manage to maintain clarity of vision. One, a north-facing plot, has been
lightened with reflective surfaces and enlivened by its various influences; the other represents the
power of nature, with swirling landforms and contrasting textures.
Pebbles on a
stainless-steel grille Bespoke, perforated stainless-
steel water feature
Two become one
This private garden is an amalgamation of two of Paul Cooper’s
designs—Hanging Gardens and Cool and Sexy Garden—both for the
RHS Chelsea Flower Show. Paul embraced an exciting mix of modern
materials to create a garden where height and structure dominate.
Key ingredients Paul says:
1 Hedera helix ‘Kolibri’ “My client on this project was great. He
2 Stainless steel water feature was forward-thinking and didn’t want a Foamex-
conventional garden. The plot is north- laminated
3 Phyllostachys nigra f. henonis
facing, cool, and gloomy, so I emphasized plywood walls
4 Wisteria floribunda ‘Macrobotrys’ verticals to create the feeling of escaping
5 Santolina chamaecyparissus these restrictions. And, with its theatrical
6 Painted wrought-iron railings lighting and reflective surfaces, this
7 Lavandula pedunculata subsp. garden really performs at night.”
lusitanica “I’d say the design is typical of my
work. I originally trained and worked
8 Mahonia x media ‘Buckland’
as a sculptor, and I can definitely see Steps leading
a three-dimensional character here. to a raised
Contemporary architecture was, and walkway
is, a big influence, but there are some
Japanese elements in there, too.” Railings lead to a Decorative
raised walkway arch-shaped screen
Helter skelter Jagged slate
Artist, horticulturist, and garden designer, Tony Heywood, created slabs thrust out
of the ground
this public garden at a junction of two busy streets in the center of
London. The design revolves around a vortex of bubbling water, with
the other elements spiralling toward it, alluding to the energy and
speed of the traffic and people passing by. Contrasting textures
heighten this sense of excitment, while the disparate elements are
bound together by a simple color palette of blues and greens. Pool represents
a vortex
Key ingredients Tony says:
1 Slate fish scales “I wanted the garden to look like it had
2 Tipping box topiary been created by a powerful natural force Curved polished
that was pulling the land like a twisted steel bends images
3 Mirrored steel sculpture of traffic and buses
carpet into a central vortex. The railings
4 Minimalist planting palette were bent, yew topiaries are tipping over, passing by
5 Man-made materials and jagged vertical slates erupt from the
6 Lead and slate wall feature ground. Inspired by Japanese gardens, “Fish scale”
I used stones to represent rivers and slates add an
Blue aggregate Sea of spiky Curved box unusual texture
pushed this idea further, with slates up represents fescue grasses hedge spirals
the wall made to look like a rock face.” a river to the vortex
MAKING A GARDEN
258/259 Making a garden
BUILDING PREPARATIONS

Building preparations
Creating a new garden from scratch, or tackling a major hard landscaping project, is a serious undertaking.
If you decide to do the work, but only have weekends free, or do all the ground preparations by hand, it
could take months to finish. The upside, however, is the immense satisfaction of having done it yourself, and
the savings on labor. Detailed preparation is paramount, and it is essential that you calculate the cost of all
materials, rental equipment, and any professional fees in your budget.

DIY vs. employing professionals

Depending on your experience, you may feel eye protection when sawing timber, and
confident about tackling a simple paving steel-toed boots for any construction work.
project, erecting trellises, or building a deck. Jobs involving heavy materials or a high level
In fact, many modern building materials and of skill are often best left to professionals.
garden features are specifically designed for Natural stone, for instance, often comes in
ease of construction. When taking on any large pieces that require skill to cut and lay.
work yourself, ensure you are equipped with Similarly, in a modern garden, crisp design
the appropriate safety equipment, such as demands a very high-quality finish to avoid
it standing out for all the wrong reasons.
Experience and expertise count, especially
when it comes to safety. Wet soil, for
example, weighs a huge amount, so employ
a professional to construct retaining walls.
If in any doubt about your ability to take
on a project, seek expert advice from
garden designers or civil engineers; source
them via their professional organizations (see
p.369). Remember when hiring a contractor Laying paving in difficult places
Laying surfaces yourself that they are responsible for taking out Building stepping stones that appear to float on the
If you have the necessary strength, skill, and experience, surface of a pool is not easy, as water shows the slightest
(such as in using specialist cutting equipment), you may insurance, and ensuring that work complies discrepancy in levels. Since the steps are to be walked on,
consider building your own new patio or wooden deck. with all safety standards and building codes. they must also be rock solid to avoid accidents.

Sequencing workflow KEEPING TO A BUDGET

The value of an experienced contractor is
If you hire a contractor to run a project from
that they know how long it takes to perform
start to finish, and have a contract drawn up
various tasks, such as digging and laying detailing completion deadlines, material
foundations, or constructing brick walls. selection, and costs, you shouldn’t run into
They should also be able to pull together difficulties over the budget. Problems
the necessary skilled workforce, just as commonly arise when you make changes to
the next phase is about to commence. the plan midway through the build, or alter
Any project can be dogged with the specifications of the materials used. Good
unforeseen difficulties, such as bad organization is vital if you run the project
weather or delayed deliveries, which yourself, especially when hiring a workforce.
hamper the work. As established Workers standing idle, waiting for materials
to be delivered, still have to be paid.
contractors often have several projects
running simultaneously, delays in these
other gardens can also have a direct
Special effects
effect on yours. Project managers must Some lighting and
maintain good communications with all water features need
parties, anticipate problems, and find ways expert installation, and
many materials also
to maintain a free-flowing operation. require specialist
Sit down with your contractors, and preparation. Always
go through the details of construction Consider lighting before landscaping check that your
Integrated light effects need to be planned well in contractors have the
together. Then draw up an agreed advance of construction so that fixtures can be built relevant experience.
schedule and refer to it regularly. in and cables suitably camouflaged.
Pre-construction checklist
Once you have completed a site survey, and prepared your design, it preparations yourself and bring in specialist contractors only for
is time to work out when the construction and planting should take specific jobs. Either way, try to visualize the project from start to
place, and who will do the work. You may decide to do some of the finish to make it run as efficiently as possible.

STAGE PROJECT NAME DETAILED INFORMATION

Major building work, such as the construction of a conservatory, may need

1 PERMISSION planning permission from your local neighborhood association. Check if in
any doubt, and talk to neighbors to explain plans and settle concerns.

One or more contractors may oversee the project, bringing in specialists as

2 HIRING CONTRACTORS needed. If project-managing the job yourself, you will need to find and hire
bricklayers, pavers, joiners, electricians, and so on.

Ask contractors to provide samples of landscaping materials, or visit stone

3 SELECTING MATERIALS and builder’s merchants, and timber yards yourself. Personally select
feature items and commission custom pieces.

Double-check amounts to avoid under- or overbuying. Arrange deliveries to

4 MATERIALS ORDER/DELIVERY coincide with different construction stages. This avoids materials getting in
the way and having to be relocated later.

Stake out the area and rent a dumpster. Remove unwanted hard
5 SITE CLEARANCE landscaping materials and features. If it is to be relaid, lift current lawn
with a turf-cutting machine. Also lift and move existing plants for reuse.

Save quality topsoil for reuse and do not mix with subsoil. Remove it
6 TOPSOIL REMOVAL manually or with a mini digger. Locate topsoil away from the construction
site and pile it up on the future planting areas.

If your plan requires a lot of heavy digging, trenching, and releveling, rent a
7 MACHINERY RENTAL/ACCESS mini digger and operator. Ensure suitable access, clearing pathways and
removing fence panels, as required.

Establish different site levels and excavate accordingly. Organize the

8 FOUNDATIONS AND DRAINAGE digging of foundations and drainage channels, then pour foundations and lay
drainage pipes. If needed, move existing drains.

Bring in an electrician or lighting engineer to install the cabling grid for all
9 LIGHTING AND POWER garden lighting and powered features. Some of these shouldn’t be wired
up until the garden has been completed.

Build all hard landscaping features, including all walls, steps, terraces,
10 BUILDING AND SURFACES pathways, water features, and raised beds. Construct timber decks,
pergolas, and screens. Prepare new lawn areas.

Once the contractors, builders, or landscapers no longer require access

11 BOUNDARY CONSTRUCTION across the boundary for their machinery, vehicles, and materials, walls and
fences can be completed and/or repaired.

Some basic planting may have to be done during the dormant season, while
12 TOPSOIL AND PLANTING construction continues. Replace or buy in topsoil to make up levels, then
carry out remaining planting.
Building garden structures

Permanent features and hard surfaces, such as footpaths, patio areas, fences, raised beds, ponds,
and pergolas, provide the structural framework for your garden design, underlining and enhancing
softer areas of lawn and planting.
Many garden structures are easy to construct, and there are several simple projects that
gardeners with few building skills—or none at all—can tackle safely, and achieve satisfying results
in just a day or two. For example, pergola kits are widely available and
quite simple to assemble, and you can buy pressure-treated timber pre-cut
to length for features such as raised beds or decking.
When executing your design, start with the hard surfaces, but before you
begin, take time to measure your yard carefully. Check that you have
sufficient space for a path that will be easy to negotiate, and that the area
for a proposed patio or terrace will accommodate your chosen furniture. It
may even be worth selecting furniture before you finalize your design plans;
it’s surprising how much room you need for a dining table and chairs,
Stepping stones are easier
allowing for the chairs to be moved back comfortably with space to walk to lay than a paved pathway.

around them. Paths for main routes should be at least 4 ft (1.2 m)

wide, and preferably paved or laid with gravel. These will be
easier to navigate than narrow, winding routes or a course of
stepping stones. Wide paths also provide space for mature plants
to spill over the edges without impeding free movement.
Building patios and some paths can be major DIY projects,
and if you intend to pave or deck big areas it may be worth
considering professional help, especially if your plans include
heavy materials, such as stone or composite slabs. Small blocks
or bricks laid in intricate designs also require expertise. A gravel
surface requires less skill to lay, and is ideal for an area around
planting, or a path.
Informal ponds are beautiful features and quite easy to
Pergola kits make construction relatively
construct, although for a large site, a digger would be helpful. easy and the results can be stunning.
262/263 Making a garden
BUILDING GARDEN STRUCTURES

Laying a path Marking out a path

Small paving units, such as blocks, bricks, and

cobblestones, offer flexibility when designing a path.
For this project we used carpet stones (blocks set on
a flexible mat), as they are quick and easy to lay. If you
use recycled bricks, check they are frostproof and
hardwearing; ordinary house bricks are not suitable.
Decorative
edging Soil
Blocks

1 Measure the path and mark with

string and long wood pegs, spaced
every 5 ft (1.5 m). Don’t forget to
2 Dig out the soil between the
string to a depth sufficient to
accommodate layers of hardcore and
allow for guide rails (Step 4) and sand, as well as the thickness of the
decorative edging. Hammer in the blocks. Check levels along the course
pegs gently so they are firm. of the path using a level.

Laying the path

Gravel

Sand Graded base

You will need

• Tape measure • Graded base • Broom
• Long pegs and • Hand tamper • Sharp knife
string • Masonry sand • Trowel
• Hammer • Carpet stones • Compost, herbs
• Spade
• Level
• Nails
• Sledge hammer
• Post-hole concrete
• Edging stones
• Gravel

1 day
5 Spread a 3–4 in (8–10 cm) layer
of graded base along the length
of the path. You could use excavated
6 Spread a layer of masonry sand
over the graded base. Level the
surface by pulling a length of timber
• Timber guide rails • Rubber mallet soil if the path will only get light use. across the path toward you—use the
Use a hand tamper to tamp the guide rails as a guide. Fill any hollows
graded base down. with extra sand.

Adding edging and finishing off

9 Carefully knock the guide rails

and pegs away and remove the
string. Use a spade to create a
10 Spread a strip of graded base
along each side of the path
and tamp firm with a sledge hammer.
11 Position edging stones and bed
them in place by tapping them
gently with a rubber mallet. Set stones
12 Brush masonry sand into the
joints (it allows rain to drain
away). Remove the occasional block
“vertical face” to the edge—dig If you’re using heavy edging stones, flush with the path, or leave proud to from the edge of the path to form a
down as far as the graded base on lay a foundation strip of post-hole stop soil migrating on to the path’s planting pocket. Carpet stones must
both sides of the path. concrete mix on top. surface. Backfill with soil. be cut from the backing mat.
 CUTTING BLOCKS
When you are laying a path you
may need to cut blocks or bricks
to fit the pattern or to run around
an obstacle, such as a manhole
cover or the edge of a wall.
To make a neat cut, place the
block on a firm, flat surface. Then,
using a cold chisel, score a line
across the block where you want
to cut it. Position the chisel on
the score line and hit it sharply

3 4
To prevent puddles on the Carefully nail the guide rails to with a brick hammer. Use the chisel
surface, the path must slope gently the pegs to enclose the area to smooth out any rough areas.
to one side to drain into soil or a dry of the path. Check the levels once Remember to wear goggles to
well. Angle it away from the house or more with the level, and make any protect your eyes while working. Cutting a block to size.
garden walls to avoid dampness necessary adjustments by easing the
problems. Check levels again. pegs up and down.

7 Tamp down the sand (see Step 5),

ensuring the surface remains level.
Begin laying whole blocks. Carpet
8 Once you have finished laying
whole blocks, fill any gaps with
blocks cut to fit (see top right). Bed
stones come pre-spaced, as do most the blocks into the sand with a hand
blocks, but if laying bricks, you will tamper on a flat piece of wood or a
need to use spacers. plate compactor.

13 Use a trowel to remove sand

and graded base from the
planting pocket and replace it with
14 Brush gravel into the joints
between the blocks. If, as here,
you have left a strip of soil along one
Up the garden path
A well-laid path not only provides
safe access through a garden, but
loam-based potting compost. Plant a side of the path to act as a dry well, is also a feature in itself. For period
clump-forming aromatic herb, such as apply a topping of gravel to keep it charm, use Victorian-style rope
thyme. Water well. looking neat and tidy. tiles as an edging.
264/265 Making a garden
BUILDING GARDEN STRUCTURES

Laying a patio Marking out the patio

Pavers are available in a wide range of shapes, sizes,

and materials, including concrete and natural or
reconstituted stone, and make a practical hardwearing
surface for paths and patios. Laying large pavers, while
heavy work, is quick and easy; preparing the
foundations is the hardest part of the job.
You will need
• Pegs and string • Rake • Stiff brush

1 2
• Combo square • Pavers • Pointing tool For a rectangular or square patio, Skim off turf (for large areas rent
• Spade • Bricklayer’s trowel • Masking tape mark out the paved area with pegs a turf cutter); reuse elsewhere in
• Hand tamper or • Ready-mix mortar set at the height of the finished surface the garden or stack rootside up for a
plate compactor • Club hammer 2–3 days and joined with taut string. Use a year to make compost. Dig out the
• Level • Wood spacers combo square to check the corner soil to a depth of 6 in (15 cm) plus the
• Graded base, angles are 90 degrees. thickness of the paving.
masonry sand

Pavers
Compacted
sand Laying the paving slabs

Lawn

Compacted
Soil 5 Top the graded base with a leveled
and compacted 2 in (5 cm) layer of
sand. Lay the first line of pavers along
6 Tamp down each paver with the
handle of a club hammer.
Maintain even spacing by inserting
graded base the perimeter string, bedding each one wood spacers in the joints. Check
on five spaced trowelfuls of and keep checking that the pavers
ready-mixed mortar. are sitting level.

The finishing touches

7 Wait about two days before removing the

wood spacers. Then, either brush dry
ready-mix mortar (or one part cement to three
8 In dry weather, pre-wet the joints
to improve adhesion of the
mortar. For wet mortar, add water to
9 Firm the mortar in place with a
pointing tool (above). Wet mortar
may stain some pavers, but masking
parts masonry sand) into the joints, or, for a the ready-mix mortar and push it tape along the joints will protect them
neater, more durable finish, you could use into the cracks between the pavers when pointing. Brush off excess
a wet mortar mix (see Steps 8 and 9). using a bricklayer’s trowel. mortar before it sets.
 Cutting a curve into a slab
Although pavers are available in a wide range of shapes,
you may have to cut them to size, or to accommodate
a curve in your design. Pavers, which are usually made
from stone or concrete, are surprisingly brittle; to
prevent them cracking when they are being cut, lay
them flat on a fairly deep, level bed of sand.

1 Protect yourself with

goggles, ear
protection, anti-vibration
gloves, and a dust mask.
Mark the curve on the
paver with chalk, then,
using an angle grinder
fitted with a stone-
3 Use a hand tamper or plate compactor
to tamp down the area. Set pegs at the
height of the finished surface, allowing for
4 Spread a 4 in (10 cm) deep layer of
graded base over the area, rake level
(ensuring you retain the slight slope),
cutting disk, slowly cut
partway through the
paver, going over the line
the patio to have a slight slope so rain drains then tamp firm with a hand tamper or a
several times.
away. Check with a level. plate compactor (above).

2 Mark out parallel

lines on the waste
area with chalk. Cut
along the lines partway
through the paver, again
going over each one
slowly several times.
Make sure you don’t
cross or damage your
neatly cut curved line.

3 Starting on one side

of the paver and
working across to the
other, tap firmly along
the length of each cut
strip with a rubber-
headed mallet. Make
sure that the paver
is well supported.

4 Grip each strip firmly

and snap it sharply
along the cut. Remove all
the strips in this way.
Trim off any roughness
along the curved edge
with the angle grinder.

Cutting corners
A few shapely curves can
completely transform a
rectangular patio. Here,
the corners have been
opened up to form a
Keep it clean planting pocket and to
If you don’t stand patio pots on give a gentle sweeping
saucers, water and mud from curve to the adjacent
them may stain pavers. Where area of lawn.
this occurs, clean the patio with a
pressure washer.
 266/267 Making a garden
BUILDING GARDEN STRUCTURES

Laying decking Putting up support posts

Decking is adaptable and blends with most garden

styles. It can be built from hard- or softwood, or,
more popularly, recycled plastic. If using timber,
ensure supplies come from responsibly managed
sources, and check building regulations and planning
requirements for large or above-ground structures.

Spacers between Internal joist attached

decking boards to support post
1 Mark out a square or rectangular
deck with pegs and string. Check
the corners are at a 90-degree angle
2 Lay a geotextile membrane over
the area, overlapping joins by 18 in
(45 cm). As well as the four corner
using a combo square. Mow grass very posts, you will need extra support
short, or skim off turf to use posts on each side; mark these with
elsewhere in the garden. pegs about 4 ft (1.2 m) apart.

Making the deck frame

Wood spacer
attached to
Edging timber internal joist
attached to
support post

You will need

• Pegs and • Metal pole • Galvanized bolts,
string • 3 x 3 in (75 x 75 mm) washers, screws,

5 6
• Combo square support posts and nails Leave the concrete to set for Hold the first edging timber in place
• Geotextile • Post-hole concrete • Saw and hammer 24 hours before building the against the frame (you may need
membrane • Level • Decking boards deck frame. Cut edging timbers to help); mark and drill a bolt hole on the
• Tape measure • 4 x 2 in (50 x 100 mm) • Chisel, wood spacers length—note that joins should coincide post. Insert a washer and bolt and
• Spade timber lengths with a post. Pre-drill bolt holes, tighten up, but not too tight; leave a
• Graded base • Drill and router 2 days countersinking them with a router. little room for movement.

Building the internal frame and laying the decking

9 Internal joists fortify the deck. Set

them 16 in (40 cm) apart across
the shortest span. Support joists with
10 Once all the joists are bolted
to the support posts, insert
short lengths of wood 4 ft (1.2 m)
11 Lay a decking board on the
frame (at right angles to the
joists) and cut to length, leaving a slight
12 Pre-drill holes in the board,
then attach it to each joist
using two corrosion-resistant decking
extra posts (cut the membrane when apart to hold them rigid. Nail or overhang at each end to fit a fascia nails or countersunk screws. Cut the
you concrete them in) aligned with screw the joists and spacers in place board (optional). Center any joins in remaining boards to size and screw
those on the outer frame. or use joist hangers (see top right). the board over a joist. them to the joists.
 JOIST HANGERS
If your deck is at ground level,
you can screw or nail the frame
together. More robust alternatives
are advisable for raised decks or
where the joists butt against a
wall. Timber-to-timber joist
hangers, made from galvanized Timber-to-timber joist hanger.
mild steel, are nailed or bolted on
to the joists and then attached to
the edging timbers. Stronger steel
joist hangers can be mortared

3 4
Dig out post-holes about 12 in (30 Fill the hole with water to into the wall. You may find it
cm) square and 15 in (38 cm) dampen the graded base and easier to bolt a length of timber
deep—fill the bottom 3 in (8 cm) with allow to drain. Pour in post-hole to the wall first, and then hang
graded base. Tamp firm with a metal concrete mixed to a pouring the joists from it with timber-
pole, insert post, and pack with more consistency. Use a level to check the to-timber joist hangers. Joist hanger mortared into a wall.
rammed graded base. post is vertical; adjust as necessary.

7 Lift the edging timber into

position, use a level to check
it’s horizontal, and mark and drill
8 Attach all the edging timbers in
the same way, butting the corner
joints neatly. Bolt the timbers to all
the timber where it coincides with intermediate posts to complete the
a post. Insert a bolt and washer frame. Cut the tops off the posts
as in Step 6. flush with the frame.

13
1
Use a chisel to lever the
boards into place, spacing them
⁄4 in (5 mm) apart with thin strips of
14 Fascia boards fixed around the
edge of your deck make for a
neat finish. Overlap them precisely
Wood treatments
Pre-treated decking timber can
be left natural, or you can choose
plastic or wood. Spacing allows the where they meet at the corners. If from a huge variety of colored
decking boards to expand in the heat your decking is built on a slope, fascia stains or treatments. This deck is
and let rain water drain away. boards will hide any ugly gaps. a contemporary gray-brown.
268/269 Making a garden
BUILDING GARDEN STRUCTURES

Putting up Replacing old fence posts

fence posts
The strength of a fence lies in its supporting posts.
Choose 3 x 3 in (75 x 75 mm) posts made from a
rot-resistant timber, such as cedar or pressure-treated
softwood, and set them in concrete or metal post
supports. Treat the timber with wood preservative
every three to four years to prevent it rotting, and
replace old posts when you spot signs of deterioration.
1 Use a claw hammer or screwdriver
to free one end of the panel. 2 Before putting in a new post, first
remove the old concrete footing.
You will need Remove metal clips and fixings. Clear Once you have removed the fence
soil away from the base of the panel, panels, dig out the soil from around
• Claw hammer
then free the other end. Leave the top the base of each post to expose the
or screwdriver fixing brackets until last for support. concrete block.
• Spade, tape measure
• Bricks, timber, rope
• Trench shovel
• Graded base Concreting the posts
• Fence posts
• Metal spike or pole
• Level
• Timber battening
• Post-hole concrete
• Bricklayer’s trowel

2 days

Fence post

Post-hole concrete

Graded base
7 To test that the post is vertical,
hold a level against each of its
four sides. Make any adjustments
8 To hold the post upright while
you’re concreting it in place, tack
a temporary wood brace, fixed to a
as necessary, and check that the peg driven firmly into the ground, to
post is the right height for the the post. Don’t attach to the side that
Soil
fence panel. you’ll be hanging the panels on.

Fixing bolt-down supports

When erecting posts on a solid
level surface, such as paving, use
bolt-down, galvanized metal
plates. These can be fixed in
place relatively easily and will
help to prolong the life of the
timber posts by holding them
off the ground.

1 Measure and mark the exact

position of the post, as there will
be no opportunity to change it later.
2 Use a percussion or hammer
drill fitted with a masonry bit
to drill the bolt holes. Keep the drill
3 Fill the drilled holes with
mortar injection resin and
insert anchor bolts. After the
Position the base plate, marking the upright and make sure you recommended setting time, tighten
position of each of the corner bolt penetrate right through the paving the bolts using a wrench—the
holes with a pencil. into the graded base underneath. bolts will expand to fill the hole.
3 Using the post as a lever, loosen
the block in the hole. Tie a length
of timber to the post, balance it on a
4 If a new post is to go in the
same spot, refill the hole and
compact the soil before digging a
5 Fill the bottom of the hole
with a 4 in (10 cm) layer of
graded base. Stand the post on
6 Use a metal spike or pole to
ram the graded base in place,
working the post gently back and
pile of bricks (as shown), and use this new post hole using a trench shovel. the base, check it’s level with the forth to help settle the material.
simple lever to help minimize any Make it about 2 ft (60 cm) deep and original fence line, and pack Aim to fill the hole to about half its
strain as you lift it. 12 in (30 cm) across. graded base around the sides. depth with compacted graded base.

9 Fill the post hole to the top with

water—leave to drain. This will
help settle the graded base and
10 Pour concrete into the hole,
stirring gently to remove air
bubbles. Shape it around the post
improve adhesion of the concrete. using a trowel so rain runs off.
Make up post-hole concrete to a Rehang panels after 48 hours.
pouring consistency. Remove bracing after three weeks.

METAL SPIKE SUPPORTS

If you have firm, undisturbed ground,
use metal spike supports. Position
the spike in place and insert a “dolly,”
a special post-driver, into the square
cup. Hit the the dolly with a mallet
to drive the spike into the ground.
Check the angle of the spike with
a level to ensure that it is going in
straight—twist the dolly handles
to correct any misalignment. When
New posts, new panels
the spike is in the ground, remove A new fence makes a beautiful natural
the dolly. Clamp the square cup backdrop to planting, or, for a more
around the post and tighten up. contemporary look, try staining the wood
matte black or dark blue.
270/271 Making a garden
BUILDING GARDEN STRUCTURES

Laying a gravel border

Gravel isn’t just for driveways and paths—when Gravel

used as a decorative mulch in the border it sets

plants off to great effect. If you spread a thick layer
of gravel on top of a permeable membrane, it
will also suppress weeds and help retain
moisture in the soil.
You will need
• Scissors or sharp knife 1 day Brick edging
• Permeable membrane
• Metal pins
• Pea gravel
• Tape measure Permeable membrane

Soil
Laying the membrane

1 Cut a piece of permeable membrane

to fit your bed or border. For large 2 Presoak container-grown plants in a bucket of water
for about half an hour. Position plants, still in their
areas, you may need to join several strips pots, on top of the membrane. Check the labels to make
3 Use scissors or a sharp knife to
cut a large cross in the membrane
under each plant. Fold back the flaps.
together—in which case, leave a wide sure that each plant has enough room to spread—once Make the opening big enough to allow
overlap along each edge and pin in place. the gravel is down, moving them isn’t easy. you to dig a good-sized planting hole.

Planting up the border

4 Remove the plants from their

pots and lower each one into
its allocated planting hole. Plants
5 Firm in the root ball with your
hands, then tuck the flaps back
around the base of the plant. If
6 Cover the membrane with a thick, even
layer of gravel. A depth of 2–3 in (5–8 cm)
should prevent any bald patches appearing.
should sit at the same level as when necessary, trim the membrane to Should you need to move plants in the future,
in the pot. Fill in around the root fit neatly around the plant’s stems. pin a piece of membrane over the top of the cut
ball with soil. Water thoroughly. area to stop weeds popping up through the cut.
 AGGREGATE OPTIONS
Permeable paths
The main advantage of using permeable
You can lay most aggregates over
surfacing in a garden is that it allows rain
a permeable membrane in the same
way as gravel. Other decorative
water to drain through to the soil. But when
options for a planting area include you discover that the materials are durable,
slate chips (shown right), small easy to lay, and cost-effective, they’re
pebbles, ground recycled glass, definitely an attractive alternative to paving.
crushed shells, and colored
gravels. (See pp.354–355 for more
information on these materials.)

Loose gravel
Look carefully and you’ll see that this gravel has been
poured into a honeycomb grid. This cleverly designed
plastic matting, which you lay like a carpet, prevents
gravel migrating all over the garden or driveway.

Self-binding gravel
Gravels are usually washed clean of soil and stones,
but self-binding gravels, such as pea gravel, are not.
When compacted, these fine particles bind the
material together to form a strong, weed-free,
permeable surface.

Keep it neat Shredded bark

A gravel surface works best Bark is pleasantly springy underfoot. Lay it over a
when it’s contained by a solid permeable membrane, or straight on to compacted
edge. If the gravel border is next soil. Whichever you decide to do, the bark will start
to a lawn, consider laying a brick to break down after a couple of years and will
mowing strip (see p.275). need replacing.
272/273 Making a garden
BUILDING GARDEN STRUCTURES

Building a pergola Making the arches

A pergola is essentially a series of arches linked

together to form a covered walkway. The framework
provides the perfect support for climbing plants, such
as fragrant honeysuckle and roses. Although often
made from timbers or metal components, many
designers choose to use a wood frame kit, as shown
here, the instructions for which are pretty universal.
Extra cross-piece

1 Unpack and identify all the pieces.

Mark the layout of the pergola on
the ground with pegs and string—use
2 Arrange the pieces flat on the
ground to check the fit of the
joints. Make adjustments as necessary.
a combo square to check right angles. If the wood isn’t pre-drilled, clamp
If the area is to be paved, lift and the timber in a vise and drill holes
reuse the turf elsewhere. for the screws and bolts.

Erecting the arches

Cross-piece
attached to two
upright posts
forms an arch
Roof timber

Upright posts

Side timbers

You will need

• Pergola kit • Tape measure • Level
• Pegs and string • Hammer • Ready-mix
• Builder’s square
• Vise
• Wooden battening
• Spray paint
concrete
5 Mark the two upright post
positions for the first arch using
spray paint. Dig out the holes, making
6 Ram the graded base firmly in
place with a metal spike or
pole. Place the upright posts in
• Drill • Spade 2 days
• Screwdriver • Hardcore them about 2 ft (60 cm) deep and the holes and test that each one
• Galvanized • Metal spike 12 in (30 cm) across. Fill with 4 in (10 is vertical by holding a level
cm) of graded base (see Step 5, p.269). against each of its four sides.
screws or bolts

Constructing the roof

9 Dig two holes for the uprights

on the second arch (see Steps
5 and 6). Do a final check on the
10 Using a level, check that the
side timbers are horizontal
and the uprights are vertical before
11 Leave the concrete to set
for 48 hours, then screw or
bolt all the side timbers in place,
12 Most pergolas have extra
cross-pieces to strengthen the
roof (these do not sit on uprights so
relative position of the two arches concreting them in position. Repeat butting the joints tightly together. are unsupported). Mark their position
by positioning the side timbers on Steps 5–10 until all the arches are To avoid splitting the wood it’s midway between the uprights. Pre-drill
top of their respective uprights. concreted in place. best to pre-drill the holes. screw holes in each piece.
3 To make an arch, attach each
end of a cross-piece to the top
of an upright post using galvanized
4 Measure the distance between
the upright posts at the top and
bottom of each arch, adjust the
screws or bolts. Support the wood posts until the spacing is the same,
on a board to help steady and align and then nail wooden battening
the pieces as you work. across to stop them splaying.

7 To hold the uprights vertical

while you’re concreting them
in, tack a temporary wooden brace
8 To position the second arch, lay a
side timber on the ground to
work out the spacing. Mark the
A shady retreat
Walking under a shady,
plant-covered pergola is a real
to a peg driven into the ground (see position of the post holes with paint. treat on a hot summer’s day. It
Step 8, p.268). Concrete the posts in Allow for a slight overlap where the would also be the perfect spot
place (see Steps 9 and 10, p.269). side timbers will rest on the uprights. for outdoor entertaining.

WIRING FOR CLIMBERS

A system of wires attached to the
upright posts of your pergola will
give plants the support they need
to start climbing. Fix screw eyes
at 1 ft (30 cm) intervals around
the four sides of an upright.
Attach galvanized wire to the
lowest screw eye, run it through
all the eyes on the same side of
the upright, and secure it firmly
to the top one. Repeat on the
other three sides of the upright.
13 Screw or bolt the cross-
pieces in place—you will
need someone to hold them steady
14 Position the roof timbers on
top of the cross-pieces. Mark
and pre-drill holes, and then screw in
Guide shoots of twining plants on
to the wires; tie in shoots of stiffer
to stop them twisting when you’re place. Leave the bracing on the stemmed climbers, such as roses. Set up a system of wires for climbers.
drilling. Check that all the fixings on uprights for three weeks until the
the pergola frame are tight. concrete has completely set.
274/275 Making a garden
BUILDING GARDEN STRUCTURES

Making a raised bed

Creating a square or rectangular timber-framed
raised bed is easy, especially if the pieces are
pre-cut to length. Buy pressure-treated wood,
which will last for many years, or treat it with
preservative before you start. If the bed is to
sit next to a lawn, make a brick mowing edge
by following the steps opposite.
Pre-sawn
You will need timbers for
a neat finish
• Spade • Drill, screwdriver
Top timbers rest
• Pre-cut wooden • Heavy-duty coach screws on the base
landscape timber • Rubble and topsoil
• Level • Bark
• Tape measure Deep layer of topsoil
Brick mowing edge
• Rubber mallet 1 day Mix of soil
and rubble for
good drainage
Measuring up the base

1 Dig out strips of sod wide

enough to accommodate the
timbers. Pressure-treated wood is an
2 Lay out the timbers in situ and
check that they are level with
a level (use a plank of wood to
3 Make sure the base is square by
checking that the diagonals are
equal in length. For a perfect square
economic alternative to rot-resistant support a shorter level). Check levels or rectangular bed, it is a good idea
hardwoods, such as oak. Or consider diagonally, as well as along the length to have the timbers pre-cut to size
buying reclaimed hardwood. of the timbers. at a local timber yard.

Building the bed

4 Using a rubber mallet, gently

tap the wood so that it butts
up against the adjacent piece; it
5 Pre-drill holes through the
end timbers into the adjacent
pieces at both the top and bottom
6 Arrange the next set of timbers
on top of the base; make sure
they overlap the joints below to
7 For extra drainage, partially
fill the base with rubble. Then
add topsoil that is free of perennial
should stand perfectly level and to accommodate a couple of long, give the structure added strength. weeds. Fill the bed up to about 3 in
upright according to the readings on heavy-duty coach screws. Secure Check with a level before screwing (8 cm) from the top with soil, plant
your level. Remove soil as needed. the timbers with the screws. together (see Step 5). up, then mulch with bark.
 RAISED VEGETABLE BED
Laying a mowing edge
Grass doesn’t grow well too close to a raised bed, since
Raised beds are ideal for growing
the soil tends to be dry and any overhanging plants create
vegetables, fruit, and herbs. They
provide better drainage on heavier
shade. A strip of bricks, sunk slightly lower than the level
soils and a deeper root run for crops of the sod, creates a clean edge to allow for easy mowing.

1
like carrots and potatoes. Raised Using a spare brick
beds also lift up trailing plants, such as to measure the
strawberries, which helps to prevent appropriate width for
rotting. If you buy in fresh topsoil your mowing edge, set
that’s guaranteed weed- and up a line of string to act
disease-free, your crops will have as a guide. Dig out a
strip of soil deep enough
a better chance of growing well. to accommodate the
bricks, plus 1 in (2.5 cm)
of mortar.

2 Lay a level mortar

mix in the bottom
of the trench as a
foundation for the
bricks. Set them on
top, leaving a small gap
between each brick. (This
design is straight, but
mowing edges can also
be set around curves).

3 With a level, check

that the bricks are
aligned and positioned
slightly below the
surface of the lawn
(when set in place, you
should be able to mow
straight over them). Use
a rubber mallet to gently
tap them into position.

4 Finally, use a dry

mix to mortar
the joints between the
bricks, working the
mixture in with a trowel.
Clean off the excess
with a stiff brush.

A clean cut
The mowing edge
makes a decorative
feature and allows
you to maneuver the
mower more easily.

Raise your profile

As well as providing an eye-
catching feature, a raised bed gives
you a better view of your plants
and, by lifting them up, less strain
on your back when tending them.
276/277 Making a garden
BUILDING GARDEN STRUCTURES

Making a pond Digging an informal pond

Designing a pond with a flexible PVC liner,

rather than a rigid preformed type, allows
you to create a feature of almost any size and
shape. To work out how much liner you need,
add twice the depth of the proposed pond to
its maximum length plus the width. Choose
somewhere sheltered and sunny for your water
feature, avoiding heavy shade under trees.
You will need 1 Use a hose to mark the outline of
the pond. Aim for a curved,
natural shape without any sharp
2 Before you start digging, skim off
any sod for reuse elsewhere.
Keep the fertile topsoil (which you
• Garden hose • Pond or carpet • Sharp knife
• Spade underlay • Decorative corners. To prevent it freezing solid can also reuse) separate from the
• Pickax • Flexible pond liner stone in winter, a section of the pond must subsoil. Loosen compacted subsoil
• Level/plank • Waterproof mortar, be at least 18 in (45 cm) deep. with a pickax.
• Sand bucket, trowel 2 days
Decorative Lining and edging
Rolled-up surplus liner stone slabs

Planting shelf

5 To protect the liner, line the

sides and base of the pond with
pond underlay. If using old carpet
6 Center the liner over the hole,
letting it slide down under its
own weight into the base. Leaving
underlay, beware stray tacks. On plenty of surplus around the rim,
Pond liner Soil Pond or carpet stony soils, spread a 2 in (5 cm) pleat the liner to help fit it to the
Waterproof
mortar
underlay layer of sand over the base first. shape of the pond. Fill with water.

Making a rill
A rill or channel of water adds
light and movement to a garden.
Employ a qualified electrician to
run a power supply for you.

You will need

• Pegs and string • Submersible
• Spade pump,
• Sand flexible pipe,
• Level filter
• Plastic reservoir • Gravel,
• Plastic liner cobblestones
• Sharp knife
• Bricks
• Permeable
fabric 1 Clear and level the site. Mark
out the length and width of the
rill with pegs and string. Dig out the
2 Line the rill with sand,
compacting it with a piece of
wood. Use a level to check the base
3 Line the rill with the plastic liner,
smoothing out any creases. Use
a sharp knife to trim the liner at the
• Waterproof • Metal grille
mortar area to a depth of 6–8 in (15–20 cm). is flat. Dig a hole at one end and reservoir end so that it drapes over
1 day Cut a shallow shelf all around the insert the reservoir—check that the the rim. Leave 8 in (20 cm) surplus
rill for the brick edging. rim is level with the base of the rill. material along the other three sides.
3 Dig out the pond to a depth
of 18 in (45 cm). Make the sides
gently sloping. Leave a shelf 12–18
4 Use a level placed on a straight
piece of wood to check that the
ground around the top of the pond is
in (30–45 cm) wide around the level. Remove any loose soil and all
edge, then dig out the center to a large or sharp stones from the sides
further depth of 18 in (45 cm). and bottom of the pond.

7 When the pond is full, trim the

surplus liner leaving 18 in (45 cm)
around the rim. Pleat the excess liner
8 Bed the edging stones into the
mortar, overhanging them by 2 in
(5 cm) to hide the liner. When positioning
Planting up
Wait a week for the mortar to set
before placing water lilies on the
so it lies flat and bury the edges in the vertical stones, stand them on a piece of bottom of the pond and marginals
ground. Lay a bed of waterproof rolled-up surplus liner to protect the on the shelf (see pp.98–99 for more
mortar for the edging stones. liner from being worn. on aquatic plants).

4 Edge the rill with bricks on

three sides (not the reservoir
end). Bed bricks on a 1 in (2 cm)
5 Place the pump in the reservoir.
Push the pipe on to the pump
outlet, run the pipe along the length
6 Cover over the pipe in the rill
with a level bed of gravel. Place
a metal grille over the reservoir and
Finishing touches
Fill the reservoir with water,
prime the pump, and adjust the
layer of waterproof mortar, making of the rill, and cut it to fit at the far top with cobblestones. If you sit them flow according to manufacturer’s
sure that it doesn’t fall into the end. Fit a filter on the free end of on a sheet of permeable fabric it will instructions. Slate chips make
rill. Mortar between the bricks. the pipe to prevent blockages. stop debris falling into the water. an attractive edging material.
Planting techniques

Having designed a beautiful garden, assessed your soil and aspect, and worked out what plants
to buy, it is now time to bring them home, get them into the ground, and put your ideas into
practice. Take your time when planting; tackling the task in a measured way will help to ensure
your treasures thrive.
Choose a dry, fine spell when the soil is not frozen or too wet. Before starting, gather all necessary
tools together—fork, spade, fertilizer, and watering can—so you have everything on hand. Also
make sure the soil is free of weeds, especially any pernicious perennials, before forking in fertilizer
and digging holes. The new plants will need a thorough soaking prior to
planting, and the best way to do this is to immerse them in water while they
are still in their pots, leave until the bubbles disperse, then remove and allow
to drain. Bare-rooted trees, roses, or shrubs should be planted between
fall and early spring; container-grown plants can go in the ground at
any time, but hardy plants are best planted in fall when the soil is still
warm and moist. Leave more tender types until spring, as young plants
may not survive a cold, wet winter.
Allow space for shrubs and trees to spread—the area needed should
be indicated on the plant label. Bare patches can always be filled in with
seasonal flowers, or screened by containers or an easily moved ornament,
Add fertilizer to the soil
such as a bird bath or lightweight sculpture. for a fine display of lupins.

Early spring or early fall are the

best times to establish a lawn,
whether you are using sod or
sowing seed, and avoid walking on
new grass for a few months, if possible.
Water it frequently in the early stages
and in dry spells.
Giving your new purchases a good
start will repay dividends for years to
come in the form of strong, healthy
plants that continually give a good
show, season after season. Leave space for trees like this Acer palmatum to spread.
280/281 Making a garden
PLANTING TECHNIQUES

How to plant trees Planting a container-grown tree

A well-planted tree will reward you with years

of healthy growth. Container-grown trees can
be planted at most times of the year, but the best
time is in the fall, when the leaves are starting to
drop. Bare-root plants are a cheaper option and are
available in fall and winter. Unless it’s very frosty or
there’s been a long dry spell, you should plant them
as soon as you get them home.
You will need 1 Soak the tree thoroughly and
leave it to drain. Meanwhile, clear
the planting area of weeds and debris.
2 Loosen the soil over a wide area,
to the same depth as the tree’s
root ball. Add organic matter to heavy
• Bucket • Bamboo cane • Bark chips
• Spade and border fork • Tree stake Place the tree, still in its pot, in its clay or sandy soils. Dig a large hole no
• Well-rotted organic • Mallet and nails up to 2 hours planting position, making sure that it deeper than the tree’s pot but ideally
matter • Tree tie with spacer won’t be crowded by other plants. three times the root ball’s diameter.

Planting and staking

5 With a container-grown tree,

you may find that the roots
are packed together tightly. If this
6 With a helper holding the tree
upright, backfill the hole with the
excavated soil. Make sure there are
7 Once you are satisfied that
there are no gaps or air pockets
around the roots, continue to hold
8 Small trees do not require
staking but top-heavy or larger
specimens should be staked. Drive
is the case, gently tease out any no air pockets by working the soil in the tree upright and firm it in using into the soil a wooden tree stake at
encircling roots, as these could between the roots and around the your foot with your toes pointing an angle of 45 degrees. Ensure you
prevent it from establishing well. root ball with your fingers. toward the trunk. do not damage the root ball.

Planting a hedge
An informal mixed hedge of
native species will provide a rich
habitat for wildlife, as well as
attractive flowers and fruits.
The best time to plant a bare-
root hedge is in the fall, when
plants first become available.

You will need

• Spade
• Rake

1 2 3
• Tape measure A few weeks before planting, Mark the planting line with pegs Set the plants 32 in (80 cm)
• String and canes remove weeds and dig the area and string. If you have space, put apart. Spacing is critical for
• Pruning shears over, working in organic matter (as in a double row of plants for extra hedging, so use a tape measure
Step 2 above). At planting time, screening. It’s also less likely to suffer or marked canes rather than
up to 3 hours weed the area again, tread the gaps if plants die. Set the rows 16 in guessing. Dig holes large enough to
ground until firm, and rake level. (40 cm) apart. accommodate the roots comfortably.
3 Puncture and scuff up the
walls and base of the hole to
allow for easy root penetration;
4 Remove the tree from its pot.
Lower it into the hole and check
that the first flare of roots will be level
the result will be a stronger tree. with the surface after planting—try
Don’t loosen the base too much scraping off the top layer of compost
as the tree may sink after planting. if you can’t see the flare.

9 The stake should be a third of

the height of the tree, and the
end should face into the prevailing
10 Knock a nail through the tree
tie into the stake to prevent
it slipping down. Water the tree
Spring blossom in a woodland border
In small- to medium-sized yards, choose
compact trees with an attractive overall
wind. Fit a tree tie with a spacer thoroughly and apply a mulching mat habit. This hawthorn (Crataegus) is ideal,
to the stake and trunk. This can around the trunk, which will keep the with pretty, pink blossoms in spring,
be adjusted as the tree grows. area around the tree free of weeds. followed by ornamental fruits.

4 Plant the bare-root hedging

plants at the same depth as they
were growing in the field; you’ll see
5 Stagger the plants on the second
row to maximize coverage. Position
the first plant 16 in (40 cm) in from the
6 Check that the soil around the
plants is firmed in, and then
water each plant thoroughly. Prune
Wildlife-friendly screen
A mixed hedge will attract wildlife
all year. Don’t clip too hard if you
a dark soil stain on the stem. Plant edge of the front row. Keep bare-root back the tips of any tall or leggy want summer flowers and fruit in
roses slightly deeper for stability. plants wrapped until planted to stop shrubs to encourage new, bushy the fall, and take care not to
Firm plants in with your hands. their roots drying out. growth from the base of the plant. disturb nesting birds in spring.
282/283 Making a garden
PLANTING TECHNIQUES

How to plant shrubs You will need

• Spade and fork
• Organic matter
Shrubs form the backbone of a garden plan, providing structure • Bucket
as well as flowers and foliage. Plants grown in containers can be • Mulching
material
planted year-round if you avoid days when the ground is frozen,
or excessively wet or dry. Before planting, always check the label 1 hour

for the shrub’s preferred site and soil.

1 Dig over the soil thoroughly,

removing any weeds and
working in plenty of well-rotted
2 Stand the plant in its container in
a bucket of water and leave it to
soak. Remove the plant from its pot
3 Firm soil gently, ensuring the
shrub is upright and that it is
sitting in a shallow depression. Water
manure or compost. Make the and tease out any thick, encircling generously, then spread a mulch of
planting hole twice the diameter of roots. Plant at the same depth it was organic matter (see right), keeping it
the container and a little deeper. in its pot. Backfill with soil. away from the stems.

How to plant perennials You will need

• Spade and fork
• Organic matter
Unlike annuals and tender patio plants, herbaceous perennials • General fertilizer
come up year after year. Many modern varieties need little • Bucket
• Mulching
maintenance other than deadheading and cutting back in spring. material
Give them a good start by improving the soil at planting time and up to 1 hour
minimize competition for water and nutrients by controlling weeds.

1 Prepare the planting area,

removing perennial weeds and
large stones. On dry ground or
2 Dig a hole a bit deeper and wider
than the pot. After soaking the
plant, remove the pot. Add soil to the
3 Water thoroughly. Apply a thick
mulch to conserve moisture,
suppress weeds, and protect roots
heavy clay, work in organic matter hole so that the top of the root ball is from penetrating frosts. Take
(as Step 1, above). On sandy soil, also level with the soil surface. Backfill and precautions against slugs and snails,
apply a general fertilizer. firm soil lightly with your hands. and watch for aphids on shoot tips.
 Mulch options
Mulches conserve water, which is why they
are always applied after planting when the
ground is moist. Some improve soil structure
and most discourage weeds, which compete
with plants for water and nutrients. Gravel
mulches look attractive while others, such
as leafmold, offer a habitat for beneficial
creatures such as ground beetles.

Compost Leafmold
Mature compost and Although low in nutrients,
manure lock moisture leaves are excellent
and nutrients into the for improving soil and
soil. As the mulch breaks retaining moisture,
down it releases plant and look good around
food and improves the woodland-style plantings.
soil structure. Apply a To make it, fill perforated
layer 4 in (10 cm) deep trash bags with fall
in late winter to minimize leaves, seal up, and leave
weed growth. for about 18 months.

Bark mulch Gravel mulch

A popular mulch, bark Gravel laid over landscape
comes in various sizes, fabric creates a decorative
the smallest being the weed-suppressant foil for
most ornamental. It alpines and Mediterranean-
breaks down slowly and is style plantings. Plant through
a good weed suppressor the fabric by cutting a cross
and moisture conserver, and folding back the flaps
but doesn’t add many before replacing the gravel
nutrients. Top up worn (see also pp.270–271).
areas annually.
Seasonal color and interest
A mixture of shrubs and perennials
provides a rich tapestry of color, form,
and texture that changes in mood as the
seasons progress. If space allows, plant
the perennials in drifts for greater impact.
284/285 Making a garden
PLANTING TECHNIQUES

How to plant Preparation for planting

climbers
Walls, fences, and trellises offer planting space for a
wide range of climbers and wall shrubs. Using plants
vertically is especially important in courtyard gardens,
where space is at a premium. Flowers and foliage soften
bare walls and privacy screens, as well as creating
potential nesting sites for birds. Avoid overvigorous
climbers that could overwhelm their situation.
1 Before soil preparation, attach
eye screws and horizontal wires,
or a trellis, to the wall or fence. Set the
2 Dig over a large area around
the planting site with a garden
fork. Work in plenty of bulky
You will need lowest wire about 20 in (50 cm) above organic matter, such as well-rotted
• Eye screws • Granular • Trowel or garden fork soil level, and space the wires 12–18 in manure or compost, to combat
• Galvanized wire or trellis fertilizer • Bark mulch (30–45 cm) apart. dryness at the base of the fence.
• Border fork and spade • Bamboo canes
• Bulky organic matter • Garden twine 1 to 2 hours

Planting and aftercare

5 Arrange a fan of bamboo canes

behind the planting hole, leaning
them back toward the fence. The
6 Plant the climber, backfilling the
hole with enriched soil. Untie the
stems from their original support
7 Tie the stems to the canes using
soft garden twine and a loose
figure-of-eight knot. Train the outer
8 Firm the climber in using your fists
and then take a trowel or garden
fork to fluff up the soil where it has
canes will lead the climber’s stems up and untangle them carefully. Cut off stems on to the lower wires and been compacted. Next, create a shallow
to the horizontal wires and spread any weak shoots and spread them train the central stems upwards to water reservoir (with a raised rim)
them over a wider area. out ready to attach. cover the higher wires. around the base of the plant.

Support for climbers

Climbers and wall shrubs scale
vertical surfaces in a variety
of ways, and the support you
provide depends on their vigor
and method of climbing. Some,
such as jasmine, honeysuckle,
and wisteria, are twiners;
clematis have coiling leaf stalks;
and sweet peas, passionflowers,
and vines cling with tendrils.

Horizontal wires Trees and other host plants Trellises

These offer the most adaptable To encourage a rambler rose to Wooden trellises can be used against
support for climbers, wall-trained clamber up into a fruit tree, plant it a wall or as a screen. Climbing roses,
shrubs, and fruit trees. Training 3 ft (1 m) away from trunk and give honeysuckle, clematis, and passionflower
stems horizontally increases it a rope to climb (peg to the ground may secure themselves, but tying them
flower and fruit production. and run it to the lowest branch). in also helps.
3 Apply all-purpose granular
fertilizer to poor soils (follow
manufacturer’s instructions). Water
4 Dig a planting hole 18 in (45 cm)
from the fence, and twice the
diameter of the root ball. Check the
the climber generously a few hours depth is the same as the original
before planting, or plunge the pot compost level, though clematis should
into a bucket of water. be planted 4 in (10 cm) deeper.

Fragrant cover
The honeysuckle shown
in this photograph will
eventually produce a
mass of evening-scented

9 Water thoroughly, then apply

a mulch of bark chips to help
combat weeds, conserve moisture,
flowers, loved by bees
and moths. Good ground
preparation will ensure
and keep the roots of plants such as that the plant won’t run
clematis cool. Ensure the mulch short of water, which can
doesn’t touch the stems. lead to powdery mildew.

PLANTING IN POTS
Large containers, especially glazed
ceramic pots or oak half barrels,
create the opportunity for covering
walls, fences, and screens, even
without a bed or border. Some
pots and troughs come with integral,
freestanding trellis support, but you
can also add a trellis fan as shown
here. Try small- to medium-sized
species and cultivars, such as
Obelisks No support needed Clematis alpina and C. macropetala,
These provide ideal support for Plants such as Boston ivy have
as well as annual climbers like
large-flowered clematis, jasmine, tendrils that adhere to walls without
and climbing roses, and annual support. Ivy and climbing hydrangea Eccremocarpus scaber (Chilean glory
climbers, such as sweet peas, have self-clinging roots on their vine) and morning glory (Ipomoea).
morning glory, and runner beans. stems. Some initial support is useful.
286/287 Making a garden
PLANTING TECHNIQUES

Planting a lawn Preparing the ground

The best time to plant, or seed, a new lawn is

early fall or spring. Dig the area, adding a margin
of 6 in (15 cm), and improve the drainage of
heavy clay and wet soils by working grit into the
topsoil. For free-draining soils, dig in a 3–4 in
(8–10 cm) layer of bulky organic matter to
conserve moisture and fertility.
You will need
• Spade or fork
• Rake and hoe
• Broom
• Garden hose
1 Dig over the lawn area, removing
big stones and perennial weeds,
and break up the surface into a fine
2 Rake the ground level to
remove any depressions left
after walking. Leave for five weeks
• All-purpose granular fertilizer • Sharp spade crumb structure. Rake level, then, to allow weed seeds to germinate,
• Topsoil mixed with keeping your weight on your heels, then hoe lightly to remove them.
horticultural sand 1 day walk over the length of your plot, Rake level and apply a dressing of
• Wooden plank and then across the width. all-purpose granular fertilizer.

Laying the sod

3 Arrange sod delivery a few days after

applying fertilizer. Carefully unroll the
sod, laying whole pieces and working out
4 To ensure that the grass knits together,
butt the edges of the sod, lifting them
so that they are almost overlapping when
from an edge. Stand on a plank to distribute pushed down. This helps to combat any
your weight. Tamp down sod with a rake. shrinkage. Firm again with a rake.

Finishing and shaping

5 Continue to lay the next row of sod,

ensuring that the joins are staggered like
wall bricks. This produces a much stronger
6 To help adjacent pieces of sod
to grow together and root
firmly, brush in a blend of topsoil
7 Water thoroughly during dry
spells to prevent shrinkage. Shape
lawn edges when the sod has rooted
structure. Use an old knife for cutting, and and horticultural sand. Use a stiff (try gently lifting an edge). Lay out
avoid using small pieces at the edges. broom to work in the top dressing curves with a garden hose and cut
and raise flattened grass. using a sharp spade.
SPOT WEEDING
Seeding a lawn
For large areas of lawn, seeding is the cheapest option
During lawn establishment, perennial
and, although it will be about a year before the grass can
weeds often take root, especially
rosette-forming dandelions and thistles,
take heavy use, it should start to green up and look good
which can smother the sod. Use an old in under a month. Worn patches in existing lawns can also
kitchen knife, forked daisy grubber, or be repaired by reseeding with an appropriate grass mix.
long-handled, lawn-weeding tool to
extract them. Try to remove all the
taproot. Do not use lawn weed killers
for at least six months.
1 Select a seed mix
that suits your
conditions and lawn use,
such as, hard-wearing
family or fine, ornamental
lawn. Weigh out seed for
1 sq yd (1 sq m) following
pack directions. Pour into
a paper cup; mark where
the seed reaches.

2 You should have dug,

firmed, leveled, and
raked the lawn bed at
least five weeks previously
(see opposite). A few days
before sowing, remove
any weeds and add a top
dressing of fertilizer. Rake
level, removing any stones.

3 Sow in early fall when

the soil is warm and
moist, or in spring when
plants start to grow
actively. Mark out 1 sq yd
(1 sq m) sections using
canes, and measure out
the grass seed using the
marked paper cup.

4 Scatter half the seed

in one direction, and
then go over at right
angles with the remainder,
keeping within the
template. Move the
template along and repeat
the process. As a guide,
one handful of seed
weighs roughly 1 oz (30 g).

5 Work over the seeded

lawn lightly with a rake
until the seed is just
covered with soil. Protect
from birds using netting.
Seedlings should appear
within 14 days. Once the
grass has reached 2 in
(5 cm), cut with the
mower blades set high.

A green carpet
The velvet green of a well-maintained
lawn is the perfect foil for border
flowers. Lawns create a sense of
space in the garden and provide
color, even in the depths of winter.
288/289 Making a garden
PLANTING TECHNIQUES

Aftercare and maintenance

Making a garden is a process that doesn’t end when
the construction and planting stages are complete.
Even in low-maintenance plots, gardens only thrive
when the plants are tended and the soil replenished.
Some jobs are regular weekly tasks, but many others
are only annual or twice yearly.

When and how to water

Environmentally conscious gardeners and people living in drought-
prone areas are increasingly aware of the need to save water.
Containers, together with some types of vegetable crops and
bedding plants, may need regular summer irrigation. Shrubs, trees,
and perennials need watering only at planting time and during dry
spells in the first year or two, or until they are well established. No
matter how brown the grass may turn, established lawns never
actually need watering and will eventually recover from drought.
If you need to water, do so in the cool of the morning or evening
to minimize evaporation, and water close to the soil rather than
overhead, targeting specific plants. Mulches, such as bark and spent
mushroom compost, help seal in moisture and reduce competition
from weeds. It is better to water heavily, with extended intervals Preventing erosion
With shallow-rooting plants like this box, frequent watering can wear away
between (allowing moisture to penetrate well into the soil and the protective coating of compost. Reduce the problem by directing water
encourage deep rooting) than to water lightly but more frequently. on to a large crock or tile so that flow is gently dissipated.

Making watering easy

Although watering can be an enjoyable task, if sense to collect rainwater at areas around
you are pressed for time or have a large plot, the garden and to make use of recycled or
some shortcuts are welcome. Automatic “gray” water, for instance, from the bathtub
irrigation can be very efficient and, if properly or kitchen sink (but only if no strong or
managed, help to save water. It also makes heavily perfumed products have been used).

Deadheading promotes new flower growth.

BENEFITS OF DEADHEADING
The aim of the plant is to set seed and
reproduce: to achieve this it makes flowers
and diverts most of its resources to develop
a seedhead. To encourage more flowers you
need to remove faded blooms before they
have a chance to form seed. This is especially
important for annuals which can stop
flowering altogether and even die if you
Leaky hose Timed watering Water barrels don’t deadhead regularly. But perennials,
A perforated garden hose (leaky If you are often away from Raised up high enough so that you including so-called patio plants, can also be
hose) connected to an outdoor the garden for more than a can comfortably fit a watering can encouraged to flower for much longer if they
faucet or water barrel will couple of days or are too under the tap, water barrels are are deadheaded. Removing old, blemished
channel water directly to where busy to water all your patio a convenient way to reduce heads also improves the appearance of
it is needed—through a newly containers regularly, consider dependence on the main water
planted border, for example. installing an automatic supply. Consider fitting extension plants and reduces the risk of disease.
irrigation system with a timer. kits to increase capacity.
The benefits of pruning Feeding and weeding
It is not essential to prune any plant, but thinning and cutting back to Clay loams are naturally fertile, while sandy soils tend to
varying degrees or selectively removing whole branches can produce many be nutrient poor. Adding bulky organic matter, such as
useful effects. It can rejuvenate an old, congested specimen, giving it a new well-rotted manure, improves the quality and structure
lease of life; help short-lived shrubs to live longer; increase the supply of of both types of soil as well as providing nutrients. During
flowering or fruiting wood; improve the shape and appearance of a plant; growing season, wherever you garden intensively, you’ll
and reduce the incidence of disease. need to add extra fertilizer. Control weeds by digging
them out or hoeing, or with a glyphosate weedkiller,
except on sod which will require a lawn weedkiller.

Containers
Flowering container
plants, in particular,
require extra fertilizer.
Try a convenient,
slow-release formula
if you can’t manage
weekly feeds.

The right cut Alternate buds Soluble food

Cut back to just above a strong bud or pair Where buds form alternately along a stem, Liquid feeds are fast
of buds. Cutting halfway between buds make a slanting cut, as shown, so that rain acting and ideal for
causes die-back, which can introduce disease. water drains away from the bud. bedding and patio
plants in containers, as
well as greenhouse
crops such as tomatoes.
Removing branches
As a tree matures, it may become too
large for its area, or send out branches in
inconvenient directions, and require pruning.
Damaged or diseased branches and crossing
limbs also need to be taken out to maintain
the health of the tree. Hire a qualified tree Weedkillers
surgeon to tackle very large branches, or For convenience
those higher than head height. When and for treating
pernicious weeds,
pruning, take off a branch in sections—if you use a synthetic- or
remove it with one cut close to the trunk, it natural-based
will be pulled down by its own weight and weedkiller, which is
may tear the bark on the trunk, leaving the
tree vulnerable to infection.
1
To cut back branches, make two
incisions: one halfway through,
from beneath the branch; the second
absorbed through
the leaves to kill
the roots.
from the top to meet the undercut.

Weeding by hand
Among existing plants,
remove weed seedlings
by hand. Use a hoe on
dry days, severing the
stems where they meet
the roots just beneath
the soil, or dig them out
with a fork.

2 Remove the remaining branch stub,

starting from the upper surface of the
branch, just beyond the crease in the bark
3 This pruning method produces
a clean cut, leaving the plant’s
healing tissue intact. The tree will
where the branch meets the trunk. Angle soon produce bark to cover the
the cut away from the trunk. exposed area.
PLANT AND MATERIALS GUIDE
 292/293 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Large trees
Plant guide

Acacia dealbata Acer campestre

Mimosa, or silver wattle, is an evergreen tree with fern-like, The lobed leaves of the deciduous field maple are red when
silvery gray-green divided leaves. Orange in bud before turning young, green by late summer, then yellow and red in the fall.
yellow, the fragrant flowers borne in clusters will add color and The green flowers in spring produce the helicopter fruits that
scent from winter through to spring. It is susceptible to frost, so children love to play with. A. campestre ‘Schwerinii’ makes an
plant in a sheltered site in full sun. excellent hedge, or can be grown in a large container.
H50–100 ft (15–30 m) S20–30 ft (6–10 m) OrU1 H25–80 ft (8–25 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOOrSU2

Acer platanoides ‘Crimson King’ Acer rubrum ‘October Glory’

The Norway maple is a vigorous, spreading, deciduous tree. By the fall, the lobed, glossy, dark green foliage of the red maple
‘Crimson King’ has large, lobed, dark red-purple leaves that has turned bright red; erect clusters of tiny red flowers are
turn orange in the fall. The red-tinged yellow flowers are borne produced in spring. ‘October Glory’ is a reliable cultivar, though
in midspring. Fast-growing, it makes a useful screen, but is at for best color, grow it in acid soil. To fully appreciate its beauty
Selecting the right plant for the right its best center stage as an ornamental specimen. give this large deciduous tree plenty of space.

place is an essential skill for any H80 ft (25 m) S50 ft (15 m) OOOrSU1 H70 ft (20 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOOrSU3
garden designer, and this directory,
with its easy-to-follow symbols and
layout, will help you to make those
critical decisions. An indispensable
guide to some of the most beautiful
trees, shrubs, climbers, perennials,
bulbs, grasses, and water plants, it
includes information on design uses,
site and soil preferences, and the
size and shape of each plant. The
plants have also been grouped in
order of height, and those for Alnus glutinosa ‘Laciniata’ Betula nigra
The deciduous common alder produces yellow-brown male Red-brown when young, becoming blackish or gray-white
different styles and situations are in catkins in late winter or early spring, and small, egg-shaped as it ages, the peeling bark of the black birch is its main
fruit in summer. Most types have long, rounded, dark green attraction. Yellow-brown catkins appear in early spring,
boxes at the bottom of the pages, leaves, but those of ‘Laciniata’ are mid-green with triangular and its glossy, diamond-shaped leaves turn buttery yellow in
helping you to create perfect lobes. Will do well in a coastal setting; useful as a screen. the fall. If space allows, plant in a group for maximum impact.
planting designs. H80 ft (25 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOOrV5 H60 ft (18 m) S40 ft (12 m) OOOrUvw5
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil 123456780 tree shape

Betula utilis var. jacquemontii Cedrus atlantica f. glauca Cercidiphyllum japonicum

The smooth, peeling white bark of this Himalayan birch Glaucous blue-green foliage, erect, cylindrical cones in the fall The leaves of this fast-growing deciduous tree are bronze
comes into its own in the winter. Oval, tapered dark green and a silvery-gray bark are the attractions of this coniferous tree. when young, turning mid-green, then yellow, orange, and
leaves turn yellow in the fall, and yellow-brown catkins The blue Atlas cedar does well growing on chalk and is striking red in the fall. Acid soil produces the best color. Fallen leaves
appear in early spring. The reliable cultivar ‘Silver Shadow’ as a specimen in a sunny lawn, but its eventual size makes it smell of burned sugar when crushed. The Katsura tree is best
has an eye-catching pure white trunk. unsuitable for all but the largest of gardens. used as a specimen in a woodland setting.
H60 ft (18 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOOrU5 H130 ft (40 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOOrU5–6 H70 ft (20 m) S50 ft (15 m) OOOrU5

Eucalyptus gunnii Fagus sylvatica ‘Riversii’ Pinus wallichiana

To encourage the rounded, bluish young leaves of the cider The beauty of this cultivar of the common beech lies in its deep The Bhutan pine is a graceful, broadly conical, evergreen tree
gum, which are more attractive than the gray-green adult purple leaves, which need full sun for best color. A spreading, with long, drooping, blue-green leaves and smooth, gray bark,
foliage, cut back hard in early spring. The whitish-green bark deciduous tree, it can be used for hedging, in a woodland which is gray-green when young but later becomes darker,
is shed in late summer, revealing pink- or orange-tinted new setting, or as a focal point. For dramatic effect, plant next scaly, and fissured. It produces fresh green foliage in spring,
bark, as clusters of small white or cream flowers appear. to a golden-leaved tree, such as Catalpa bignonioides ‘Aurea’. and decorative pine cones that ripen to brown in the fall.
H80 ft (25 m) S30 ft (15 m) OOOrV3 H80 ft (25 m) S50 ft (15 m) OOOrU2 H70 ft (20–35 m) S20–40 ft (6–12 m) OOOru2

TREES FOR EVERGREEN INTEREST

• Acacia dealbata p.292 • Pinus sylvestris ‘Aurea’
• Arbutus unedo p.296 p.295
• Cedrus atlantica • Pinus wallichiana
f. glauca p.293 p.293
• Chamaecyparis pisifera • Quercus ilex p.293
‘Filifera Aurea’ p.294 • Taxus baccata p.293
• Cupressus macrocarpa • Taxus baccata
‘Goldcrest’ p.297 ‘Fastigiata’ p.299
• Eucalyptus gunnii • Tsuga canadensis
p.293 ‘Aurea’ p.299
• Laurus nobilis p.298
Quercus ilex Taxus baccata • Olea europaea p.298
A majestic, round-headed evergreen tree, the holm oak has A slow-growing evergreen conifer with distinctive dark green, • Picea breweriana p.295
glossy, dark green leaves, which are silvery-gray when young. needle-like leaves, the common yew is a familiar sight in • Picea pungens ‘Koster’
Striking yellow catkins are followed in the fall by small acorns. churchyards. When closely-clipped it is excellent for hedging p.295
It makes a good screen and hedge, and thrives on exposed and topiary. The golden-leaved cultivar ‘Standishii’ is ideal for
coastal sites. It also does well on shallow chalk. brightening a shady area. All parts of the plant are poisonous.
H80 ft (25 m) S70 ft (20 m) OOrSu1 Hto 70 ft (20 m) Sto 30 ft (10 m) OOOrStu5
294/295 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Medium-sized trees

Acer negundo ‘Variegatum’ Carpinus betulus ‘Fastigiata’ Catalpa bignonioides ‘Aurea’

There are maples for spring flowers, summer foliage, or fall The dependable, deciduous, spring-flowering common The beautiful, spreading, deciduous Indian bean tree is popular
color. A fast-growing, deciduous tree, A. negundo is known hornbeam has glowing coppery fall color and is great for for its large, dramatic heart-shaped leaves, clusters of tubular
as the ash-leaved maple because of its divided leaves; those hedging. It is an excellent substitute for beech on drier soils. flowers, and long bean-like seed pods. It makes a striking
of the cultivar ‘Variegatum’ are splashed white at the margins. The narrow, upright cultivar ‘Fastigiata’ opens up as it matures, specimen tree, but can also be grown in a border. The leaves
It looks good planted near dark-leaved plants. making a striking specimen tree. of ‘Aurea’ are bronze when young, maturing to yellow.
H50 ft (15 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOOrSuV1 H50 ft (15 m) S40 ft (12 m) OOOrSu7 H40 ft (12 m) S40 ft (12 m) OOOruV1

Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Filifera Aurea’ Davidia involucrata Fraxinus excelsior ‘Pendula’

This hardy evergreen tree tolerates most soils other than The elegant handkerchief tree is so known because of the The common ash is a vigorous, deciduous tree, grown for its
waterlogged sites, and can be grown as a specimen or as conspicuous white bracts that surround the small flower heads rounded habit and attractive foliage. In the fall it produces
hedging. C. pisifera ‘Filifera’ has slender, whip-like shoots and in spring. It is deciduous, with sharp-pointed, red-stalked leaves bunches of winged fruits, and in winter conspicuous black
dark green leaves; ‘Filifera Aurea’ is similar, but has golden and smooth gray bark. Ridged fruits hang from long stalks in the buds appear. ‘Pendula’ is a graceful, weeping form with
yellow leaves and is slower to reach maturity. fall. A fine specimen tree. long branches that droop, often as far as the ground.
H40 ft (12 m) S15 ft (5 m) OOOruV5 H50 ft (15 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOOrSUV5 H50 ft (15 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOOruv8

Gleditsia triacanthos ‘Sunburst’ Morus nigra Nyssa sinensis

Also known as honey locust, this striking deciduous tree The black mulberry forms a rounded, deciduous tree with heart- Grown for its pretty foliage and brilliant fall color, the Chinese
has delicate, fern-like foliage, spines on the trunk and shaped leaves that have rough upper surfaces and toothed tupelo forms a broadly conical, deciduous tree. The slender,
branches, and long, curved seed pods in the fall. The cultivar margins. The fruit is green, turning red and then purple-black, tapered leaves turn bright shades of orange, red, and yellow in
‘Sunburst’ is fast-growing and thornless, with golden yellow becoming edible only when fully ripe. Beware of planting next the fall, making it a valuable ornamental. Grow as a specimen
foliage in spring and fall. Best as a specimen tree. to pale paving as the fruit will stain it when it falls. tree; it looks very effective alongside water.
H40 ft (12 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOOru5 H40 ft (12 m) S50 ft (15 m) OOORuV1 H40 ft (12 m) S40 ft (12 m) OOOrSuV5
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil 123456780 tree shape

Paulownia tomentosa Picea breweriana Picea pungens ‘Koster’

This fast-growing, deciduous tree is grown for its graceful The popular Brewer’s weeping spruce is a hardy, slow-growing, A hardy evergreen tree with scaly, gray bark and sharp, stout,
habit, attractive large leaves, and showy, foxglove-like flowers. blue-green conifer with horizontal branches and long, slim, bluish-green leaves. Cultivars of the Colorado spruce make
The fragrant, pinkish-lilac flowers, marked yellow and purple pendent branchlets that give it a distinctive appearance. wonderful ornamentals where space permits; ‘Koster’ has
inside, open in late spring before the leaves appear. The tree Purple cones decorate the branches in the fall. It can be needle-like, silvery-blue leaves that fade to green with age
can be pollarded, which will result in very large leaves. grown as an effective windbreak or as a specimen tree. and cylindrical light brown cones with papery scales.
H40 ft (12 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOOru2 H50 ft (15 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOOruv4 H50 ft (15 m) S15 ft (5 m) OOOrUV6 –3

Pinus sylvestris ‘Aurea’ Prunus padus ‘Watereri’ Robinia pseudoacacia ‘Frisia’

The Scots pine is widely grown for its timber, but its cultivars A deciduous, spreading tree, the bird cherry produces slender, Deciduous and fast-growing, false acacia has elegant dark
make excellent garden trees, either planted singly or in groups. pendent spikes of fragrant, star-shaped white flowers in mid- green leaves and coarsely fissured bark. Pea-like flowers are
Upright conifers, they have whorled branches when young, and spring, followed by small black fruits. The leaves turn red or borne in early summer, followed by dark brown seed pods.
develop a rounded crown with age. ‘Aurea’ has striking golden yellow in the fall. The conspicuous long flower spikes of the The pretty cultivar ‘Frisia’, with golden-yellow foliage that
yellow leaves in winter. cultivar ‘Watereri’ create a spectacular spring display. turns orange in the fall, makes a superb focal point.
H50 ft (15 m) S28 ft (9 m) OOOruv2 H50 ft (15 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOOruV1 H50 ft (15 m) S25 ft (8 m) OOOruV3

TREES AS FOCAL POINTS

• Acer griseum p.296 • Gleditsia triacanthos
• Betula nigra p.292 ‘Sunburst’ p.294
• Betula utilis var. • Laburnum x watereri
jacquemontii p.293 ‘Vossii’ p.298
• Carpinus betulus p.94 • Larix kaempferi ‘Pendula’
• Carpinus betulus p.298
‘Fastigiata’ p.294 • Nyssa sinensis p.294
• Cornus controversa • Paulownia tomentosa
‘Variegata’ p.297 p.295
• Cornus kousa var. • Prunus serrula p.298
chinensis ‘China Girl’ • Pyrus salicifolia ‘Pendula’
Salix alba var. sericea Salix x sepulcralis ‘Chrysocoma’ p.297 p.299
The silver willow is a fast-growing, deciduous, spreading tree, A wide-spreading, deciduous tree with supple yellow stems • Davidia involucrata • Robinia pseudoacacia
conical in shape when young. The leaves are long, narrow and that reach the ground, the golden weeping willow is grown for p.294 ‘Frisia’ p.295
an intense silver-gray, and emerge at the same time as the its beautiful cascading habit. Slender yellow or green catkins • Dicksonia antarctica
yellow catkins in early spring. The foliage sparkles in the are borne with the narrow yellow-green leaves in spring. It
p.297
breeze, and it makes an elegant specimen tree. looks particularly striking when planted by water.
H50 ft (15 m) S25 ft (8 m) OOOrUv1 H50 ft (15 m) S50 ft (15 m) OOOrUv8
296/297 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Small trees

Acer griseum Acer japonicum ‘Vitifolium’ Acer palmatum ‘Bloodgood’

The chief attraction of this deciduous maple is its unusual bark, A pretty, deciduous tree with broad, fan-shaped leaves that Japanese maples make lovely ornamental trees. ‘Bloodgood’
which is orange to mahogany-red and peels laterally in papery turn scarlet, gold, and purple in the fall. The leaves are similar forms a deciduous, bushy-headed shrub or small tree and is
rolls. The dark green leaves turn bright crimson and scarlet in to those of a grapevine, hence the cultivar name. In midspring grown for its deeply cut, dark reddish-purple leaves, which
the fall, and the ornamental bark gives this spectacular tree a it bears clusters of small, delicate, reddish-purple flowers. Can turn bright red in the fall. Small purple flowers are borne
valued winter role in small yards. be grown as a bushy tree or large shrub. in midspring, followed by attractive red-winged fruits.
H30 ft (10 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOOrSUv1 H30 ft (10 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOOrSUv1 H15 ft (5 m) S15 ft (5 m) OOOrSU1

Acer palmatum ‘Osakazuki’ Acer palmatum ‘Sango-kaku’ Amelanchier lamarckii

A stunning Japanese maple for fall color. The mid-green leaves For color interest year-round, this delicate Japanese maple is a With abundant white flowers in spring and brilliant red leaf
are larger than average and turn a brilliant scarlet before falling. perfect choice. The divided leaves are orange-yellow in spring, color in the fall, this deciduous hardy shrub or small tree
Dainty red-winged fruits appear in late summer. It can be grown maturing to green, then turning yellow in the fall before they provides plenty of seasonal interest. The young oval leaves
in a large container but must not be allowed to dry out, and drop. In winter, the new shoots, borne on ascending branches, unfold bronze before the star-shaped flowers emerge, and
needs shelter from cold winds. turn coral-pink, deepening in color as winter advances. the small red fruits that follow are attractive to birds.
H20 ft (6 m) S20 ft (6 m) OOOrSu1 H20 ft (6 m) S15 ft (5 m) OOOrSu2 H30 ft (10 m) S40 ft (12 m) OOOrSuV1

Arbutus unedo Cercis canadensis f. alba ‘Forest Pansy’ Cercis siliquastrum

This handsome evergreen with flaky, red-brown bark and A pretty, multistemmed tree or shrub with vivid, reddish-purple, The Judas tree is an eye-catching, spreading, bushy tree,
attractive, glossy green leaves forms a large shrub or small tree heart-shaped leaves that are velvety to the touch. Magenta with bright purple-rose spring flowers and long, purple-tinted
in sheltered yards. Lily-of-the-valley-like blooms appear in early buds open to pale pink, pea-like flowers in midspring before pods that appear in late summer. Its heart-shaped leaves are
winter and the rounded fruits, ripening to red in the fall, give the characteristic leaves appear. Impressive as a single bronze when young, turning yellow in the fall. Although hardy, it
rise to the common name, strawberry tree. specimen but also useful for the back of the border. originates from the Mediterranean, so avoid very cold sites.
H25 ft (8 m) S25 ft (8 m) OOOru1 H30 ft (10 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOOrSUv1 H30 ft (10 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOOrSuV1
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil 123456780 tree shape

Cornus controversa ‘Variegata’ Cornus kousa var. chinensis ‘China Girl’ Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’
This elegant deciduous tree with horizontally-tiered branches A broadly conical deciduous tree, this dogwood has tiny green The corkscrew hazel is a slow-growing, small deciduous tree
creates a distinctive architectural profile. Flat heads of flower heads in summer surrounded by decorative petal-like or shrub with unusual twisted shoots, which are seen at their
star-shaped white flowers appear in summer, followed by white bracts. Fleshy red fruits develop later, followed by rich, best in winter when the long yellow catkins appear. Ideal as
blue-black fruit. ‘Variegata’ has bright green leaves with purple-red leaves in the fall. ‘China Girl’, free-flowering even a focal point in a winter yard, the stems can also be cut
creamy white margins, and makes a beautiful focal point. when young, has large creamy-white bracts that age to pink. for striking indoor displays.
H25 ft (8 m) S25 ft (8 m) OOOru1 H22 ft (7 m) S 15 ft (5 m) OOOrSV5 H15 ft (5 m) S15 ft (5 m) OOOrSuv2

Crataegus orientalis Crataegus persimilis ‘Prunifolia’ Cupressus macrocarpa ‘Goldcrest’

Hawthorns are widely used for hedges and as ornamentals. An excellent small deciduous tree, with rich brown bark and The Monterey cypress is a coastal tree in the wild and will
Many are thorny but C. orientalis is almost thornless. It is an long, dramatic thorns. It is grown mainly for its polished, deep tolerate dry growing conditions, which makes it useful as
attractive, compact, deciduous tree with deeply cut, dark green leaves that turn brilliant orange and red in the fall. Dense a hedge or windbreak in exposed sites. ‘Goldcrest’ is a
green leaves. White flowers appear in profusion in late heads of white flowers are produced in early summer followed handsome, narrowly conical tree with lemon-scented golden
spring, followed by yellow-tinged red fruit. by clusters of long-lasting, bright red berries. foliage. It looks stunning grown against a dark background.
H20 ft (6 m) S20 ft (6 m) OOOrSuV2 H25 ft (8 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOOrSuv1 H16 ft (5 m) S8 ft (2.5 m) OOOru4

TREES FOR SPRING INTEREST

• Acacia dealbata p.292 • Paulownia tomentosa
• Acer palmatum p.295
‘Sango-kaku’ p.296 • Prunus ‘Mount Fuji’
• Amelanchier lamarckii p.298
p.296 • Prunus padus ‘Watereri’
• Betula utilis var. p.295
jacquemontii p.293 • Prunus ‘Spire’ p.298
• Cercis siliquastrum p.296 • Prunus x subhirtella
• Crataegus orientalis p.297 ‘Autumnalis Rosea’
• Crataegus persimilis p.299
‘Prunifolia’ p.297 • Pyrus salicifolia ‘Pendula’
Dicksonia antarctica Ficus carica ‘Brown Turkey’ • Davidia involucrata p.294 p.299
A spectacular and hardy tree fern, D. antarctica brings drama A popular variety of fig that thrives in cool climates, ‘Brown • Laburnum x watereri • Salix alba var. sericea
into the garden. In spring its arching pale green fronds unfurl Turkey’ has large lobed leaves and pear-shaped edible fruits, ‘Vossii’ p.298 p.295
from the top of a mass of fibrous roots that form the trunk. green at first, maturing to purple-brown. Grow as a fan against • Malus ‘Evereste’ p.298
It is evergreen in mild climates, but in cold winters protect a sunny wall or as a freestanding tree; in cold areas keep in a
• Malus ‘Royalty’ p.298
the crown by covering it with straw. pot and move under cover in winter.
H20 ft (6 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOstuv0 H10 ft (3 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOruv1
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PLANT GUIDE

Small trees

Laburnum x watereri ‘Vossii’ Larix kaempferi ‘Pendula’ Laurus nobilis

This elegant, spreading, deciduous tree has glossy green Unusually among the conifers, larches are deciduous. A small Bay laurel is a conical evergreen tree grown for its aromatic,
leaves, cut into oval leaflets, and bears magnificent long grafted weeping cultivar, ‘Pendula’ has fine green linear leaves leathery, dark green leaves, which are used as flavoring in
golden chains of pea-like flowers in late spring. It makes an that turn bright yellow in the fall. It needs to be trained; the cooking. Clusters of small, greenish-yellow flowers appear
impressive specimen tree in a small yard, but can also be height of the stake will determine how tall the plant is. Its in spring, followed by black berries in the fall. It can be grown
trained over a pergola. The leaves and seeds are poisonous. compact, waterfall-like habit makes it ideal for a small yard. in a pot, and looks attractive when trimmed into formal shapes.
H25 ft (8 m) S25 ft (8 m) OOOru1 Hto 15 ft (5 m) Sto 10 ft (3 m) OOOru8 Hto 30 ft (10 m) Sto 25 ft (8 m) OOrSuV5

Malus ‘Evereste’ Malus ‘Royalty’ Olea europaea

This crab apple is an excellent choice for a small yard as This pretty crab apple is smothered in deep pink to bright An elegant, slow-growing evergreen, the olive tree has
it forms a neat, conical shape. A profusion of white, shallow, purple flowers, which open from dark red buds in spring. gray-green leaves and tiny, fragrant, creamy-white flowers
cup-shaped flowers open from pink buds in late spring, followed The glossy leaves are dark red-purple and maintain their color in summer. The green olives only ripen to black in hot, dry
by small, red-flushed, orange-yellow fruit. The green leaves turn well through the season, turning red in the fall. Inedible small conditions. It makes a stunning feature in a sunny, sheltered
yellow and orange in fall before dropping. purple fruits follow the flowers. A fine specimen tree. spot, or grow in a large pot and move under cover in winter.
H22 ft (7 m) S20 ft (6 m) OOOrSuV5 H25 ft (8 m) S25 ft (8 m) OOOrSUV2 H30 ft (10 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOru1

Prunus ‘Mount Fuji’ Prunus serrula Prunus ‘Spire’

Ornamental cherries make very attractive specimen trees A dramatic choice for winter interest, this deciduous tree is Attractive over a long season, the leaves of this upright,
for small yards. This beautiful deciduous tree has pale green prized for its glossy mahogany bark with pale horizontal lines. deciduous cherry are bronze when young, green in summer,
young leaves, darkening to deep green, then turning orange Small white flowers are produced at the same time as the new then orange and red in the fall. In spring, bowl-shaped, soft
and red in the fall before they drop. Clusters of fragrant, leaves in late spring, followed by small inedible cherries on long pink flowers emerge in clusters against the new leaves.
white, cup-shaped flowers are borne in midspring. stalks. The leaves turn yellow in the fall. Makes a beautiful feature in a small yard.
H20 ft (6 m) S25 ft (8 m) OOOrUV1 H30 ft (10 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOOrUV1 H30 ft (10 m) S20 ft (6 m) OOOrUV3
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil 123456780 tree shape

Prunus x subhirtella ‘Autumnalis Rosea’ Pyrus salicifolia ‘Pendula’ Rhus typhina

A popular tree for its early-flowering nature, this delicate This delightful ornamental pear tree has an elegant weeping Known as the stag’s horn sumach because of its red velvety
spreading cherry is perfect for a small yard. Clusters of tiny, habit and silvery-gray, willow-like leaves. An abundant show shoots, this distinctive deciduous tree is particularly fine in the
double, pale pink flowers appear in winter during mild spells. of creamy-white flowers in spring is followed by small, hard, fall when its deeply divided leaves turn shades of orange and
The green leaves are narrow and bronze when young, turning inedible pears in late summer. Grow as specimen tree on a red. The fruits are formed in dense, hairy, crimson-red clusters
golden-yellow in the fall. lawn, where its graceful habit can be seen to advantage. on female plants. Plant singly or in a shrub border.
H25 ft (8 m) S25 ft (8 m) OOOrUV1 H15 ft (5 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOOrU8 H15 ft (5 m) S20 ft (6 m) OOOrUV1

Sorbus aria ‘Lutescens’ Sorbus commixta Stewartia sinensis

A pretty deciduous tree, this eye-catching whitebeam has Sorbus are excellent ornamental trees for city gardens as they A good choice for fall foliage color, this small deciduous tree is
striking silvery-gray young foliage that gradually turns tolerate atmospheric pollution. S. commixta bears large white also prized for its unusual peeling red-brown bark and showy,
gray-green. White flowers in late spring are followed by flower heads in spring and has elegant foliage, which turns white fragrant flowers that appear in midsummer. The fall
orange berries in the fall. A freestanding tree of great shades of yellow, red, and purple in the fall. ‘Embley’ has brings an impressive display of red, orange, and yellow
beauty, it can also be used for mass planting or screening. bright red leaves in late fall, and plenty of crimson fruit. leaves. It prefers acid soil.
H30 ft (10 m) S25 ft (8 m) OOOrSU2 H30 ft (10 m) S22 ft (7 m) OOOrSUV5 H20 ft (6 m) S10 ft (3 m) OOOrSuV5

TREES FOR FALL COLOR

• Acer campestre p.292 • Crataegus persimilis
• Acer griseum p.296 ‘Prunifolia’ p.297
• Acer japonicum ‘Vitifolium’ • Gleditsia triacanthos
p.296 ‘Sunburst’ p.294
• Acer palmatum • Malus ‘Evereste’ p.298
‘Bloodgood’ p.296 • Nyssa sinensis p.294
• Acer palmatum • Prunus ‘Mount Fuji’
‘Osakazuki’ p.296 p.298
• Acer palmatum • Prunus padus ‘Watereri’
‘Sango-kaku’ p.296 p.295
• Acer platanoides • Prunus ‘Spire’ p.298
Taxus baccata ‘Fastigiata’ Tsuga canadensis ‘Aurea’ ‘Crimson King’ p.292 • Rhus typhina p.299
Irish yew has a narrow, upright habit, eventually forming A graceful species of conifer, there are many varieties of • Acer rubrum ‘October • Robinia pseudoacacia
a distinguished, columnar shape. This makes it useful as a Eastern hemlock available. ‘Aurea’ is an elegant, compact, and Glory’ p.292 ‘Frisia’ p.295
focal point or accent plant in a border. Small red berries fairly slow-growing tree with golden-yellow juvenile foliage, • Amelanchier lamarckii p.296 • Sorbus commixta p.299
appear in summer. ‘Fastigiata Aurea’ is similar but has which darkens to green with age. It is useful for evergreen
• Cercidiphyllum japonicum • Stewartia sinensis p.299
variegated yellow-green leaves. All parts are poisonous. interest in partially shaded areas.
p.293
H30 ft (10 m) S6 ft (2 m) OOOrtVW4 H25 ft (8 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOOrSuV5
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PLANT GUIDE

Large shrubs

Aralia elata ‘Variegata’ Azara microphylla Buddleja alternifolia ‘Argentea’

The Japanese angelica tree, A. elata, is an elegant, deciduous An attractive evergreen shrub or small tree with large sprays The slender, arching branches of this robust deciduous shrub
shrub with striking gray-green leaves that turn many shades of of small, glossy, dark green leaves. Small clusters of vanilla- have narrow gray-green leaves and carry dense clusters of very
yellow, orange, or purple in the fall. Large heads of small white scented, deep yellow flowers are borne in late winter and fragrant lilac flowers in summer. Its weeping habit makes it
flowers appear in late summer. The leaves of ‘Variegata’ have early spring, making it a useful shrub for winter interest. suitable for training as a standard. Prune after flowering to
creamy-white margins that shine out in a shady border. It will tolerate part-shade and grows well against a wall. prevent branches from becoming tangled.
H15 ft (5 m) S15 ft (5 m) OOOSUV H22 ft (7 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOOrSV H12 ft (4 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOOrSUV

Buddleja globosa Camellia reticulata ‘Leonard Messel’ Chimonanthus praecox ‘Grandiflorus’

This striking upright shrub has handsome, semievergreen, dark Camellias are invaluable evergreen spring-flowering shrubs Known as wintersweet, this deciduous shrub produces pale
green leaves. Small, bright, orange-yellow balls of fragrant for acid soils in sheltered sites. ‘Leonard Messel’ produces yellow flowers that hang from its bare stems throughout
flowers appear in early summer, and will brighten up a a profusion of large, semidouble, pink flowers in spring that winter, perfuming the air with intoxicating scent. Grow it
border. It prefers a sunny position and tolerates chalky stand out vividly against a background of matte, dark green as a specimen shrub, as part of a border planting, or train it
soil, but does not respond well to hard pruning. leaves. It is ideal as a specimen or in a woodland setting. on a sunny wall. The stems can be cut for indoor displays.
H15 ft (5 m) S15 ft (5 m) OOOrU H12 ft (4 m) S10 ft (3 m) OOOSuv H12 ft (4 m) S10 ft (3 m) OOOrU

Clerodendrum trichotomum var. fargesii Cordyline australis ‘Red Star’ Cornus mas
This spectacular deciduous shrub has an upright habit and The New Zealand cabbage palm is a popular evergreen shrub Shrubs that flower in winter, such as this Cornelian cherry,
attractive bronze young leaves. Fragrant, white, star-shaped grown for its striking foliage. In warm regions, it makes an are a valuable asset to the designer. It bears little clusters of
flowers with green sepals open from pink and greenish-white eye-catching architectural plant for a sheltered courtyard tiny yellow flowers on bare branches in late winter, before the
buds in late summer. Jewel-like, bright blue berries, garden; in frost-prone areas, keep it in a pot in a cool greenhouse leaves appear. Bright red fruits are produced in late summer,
surrounded by pronounced maroon calyxes, follow the flowers. during winter. ‘Red Star’ has rich red-bronze, sword-like leaves. and the leaves turn red-purple in the fall.
H20 ft (6 m) S20 ft (6 m) OOOrU H10–30 ft (3–10 m) S3–12 ft (1–4 m) OOrSU H15 ft (5 m) S15 ft (5 m) OOOrSu
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Corylus maxima ‘Purpurea’ Cotinus coggygria Rubrifolius Group Cotinus ‘Grace’

The intense color of this deciduous, deep purple-leaved hazel This bushy, deciduous shrub is known as the smoke bush A vigorous smoke bush cultivar that can be grown as a small
makes an immediate impact in a garden. Attractive purple- because its fluffy plumes of pale pink summer flowers produce a bushy tree or as a tall multistemmed shrub. Large, dark pink
tinged catkins appear in late winter, and edible nuts ripen smoky effect. The dark purple leaves color best in full sun, and flower clusters appear above the foliage in summer, and the
in the fall. Grow as a specimen plant or as a focal point in turn scarlet and orange in the fall. A fine structural shrub to plant soft purple-red leaves turn a brilliant orange-red before falling.
a shrub border. The best color is produced in full sun. on its own, it is also useful at the back of a border. An excellent choice for fall color.
H20 ft (6 m) S15 ft (5 m) OOOrSu H15 ft (5 m) S15 ft (5 m) OOOrSuV H20 ft (6 m) S15 ft (5 m) OOOrSuv

Cotoneaster frigidus ‘Cornubia’ Cotoneaster lacteus Cytisus battandieri

A large, arching, semievergreen shrub, this cotoneaster This dense, evergreen shrub sports distinctive, dark green, An elegant, deciduous shrub, the pineapple broom gained its
has narrow green leaves that are tinted bronze in the fall. leathery leaves. Cup-shaped, milky-white flowers appear in common name from the scent of its yellow pea-like flowers,
Creamy-white, early summer flowers are produced in profusion, summer, followed by clusters of dark red fruit that persist well which emerge in summer. Its attractive, silvery-green leaves
followed by heavy clusters of bright red fruit that are attractive into winter. It makes an attractive hedge or screen, and it can are covered in soft, silky hairs. Ideal as a free-standing shrub,
to birds. It can be trained as a single-stemmed tree. also be grown as a small tree. but grow it against a sunny wall in colder areas.
H30 ft (10 m) S30 ft (10 m) OOOru H12 ft (4 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOOrSu H15 ft (5 m) S15 ft (5 m) OORu

SHRUBS FOR FOCAL POINTS

• Acer palmatum • Fatsia japonica p.306
Dissectum • Fothergilla species p.95
Atropurpureum • Hamamelis x intermedia
p.304 ‘Pallida’ p.302
• Cordyline australis • Juniperus communis
‘Red Star’ p.300 ‘Hibernica’ p.302
• Cornus alba ‘Sibirica’ • Magnolia liliiflora ‘Nigra’
p.305 p.307
• Corylus maxima • Magnolia stellata p.307
‘Purpurea’ p.301 • Photinia x fraseri
• Cotinus coggygria ‘Red Robin’ p.303
Dipelta floribunda Elaeagnus x ebbingei ‘Gilt Edge’ Rubrifolius Group • Sambucus nigra ‘Eva’ p.309
This handsome deciduous shrub offers interest through the A hardy, evergreen, dense shrub, ‘Gilt Edge’ has brown scaly p.301 • Viburnum plicatum
seasons. Masses of fragrant pale pink flowers with yellow stems and glossy leaves with green centers and golden-yellow • Cotinus ‘Grace’ p.301 f. tomentosum ‘Mariesii’
markings appear in late spring, its light green leaves turn yellow margins. Small, lightly-scented flowers are produced from • Euphorbia characias p.309
in the fall, and it has attractive peeling bark in winter. Grow it mid- to late fall. The plant’s hardiness makes it a good choice
subsp. wulfenii ‘John • Yucca filamentosa ‘Bright
as a specimen plant or in a shrub border. for a shelter belt or hedge, especially in coastal areas.
Tomlinson’ p.312 Edge’ p.317
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PLANT GUIDE

Large shrubs

Elaeagnus ‘Quicksilver’ Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Pallida’ Hippophae rhamnoides

With silvery shoots and narrow, silver-gray leaves, this Witch hazel is a handsome shrub that produces spider-like Sea buckthorn thrives in harsh conditions and makes an
fast-growing shrub makes a great foil for dark-leaved plants. scented flowers on bare branches in winter. There are many excellent screening plant for a coastal garden. It has a bushy
Although bushy, with a loose, spreading crown, it can be trained cultivars. ‘Jelena’ has large, coppery-orange flowers and orange habit, but can be trained to make a small tree, and has thorny
as a small tree. Star-shaped, fragrant, creamy-yellow flowers and red fall foliage. ‘Pallida’ bears large, fragrant, yellow stems with narrow, silver-gray leaves. Grow male and female
open from silvery buds in late spring or summer. flowers and has golden fall leaves. plants together to produce brilliantly orange-colored berries.
H12 ft (4 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOOru H12 ft (4 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOORSuV H20 ft (6 m) S20 ft (6 m) OOOruv

Hydrangea paniculata ‘Unique’ Ilex aquifolium ‘Silver Queen’ Itea ilicifolia

Hydrangeas are mainly grown for their showy flowerheads, Common holly has dark green leaves, but there are many This spectacular evergreen shrub has holly-like, shiny, dark
but some have pretty bark and others develop good fall color. cultivars with white, cream, or yellow variegation. ‘Silver green leaves. Long catkins made up of small, greenish-white
H. paniculata ‘Unique’ bears large, creamy-white flowerheads Queen’ is a male variety (it does not bear berries); it forms an flowers appear in late summer, and a honey-like scent is
from midsummer to early fall, and its leaves turn yellow before upright evergreen, with purple stems and striking leaves with discernible on warm evenings. A fine freestanding shrub for
dropping. It’s best planted singly or in a shrub border. broad, creamy-white margins. It is ideal for hedges and screens. mild areas, but plant it against a wall in more exposed sites.
H10–22 ft (3–7 m) S8 ft (2.5 m) OOORSUV H30 ft (10 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOrSUV H15–20 ft (3–5 m) S10 ft (3 m) OOOrU

Juniperus communis ‘Hibernica’ Ligustrum ovalifolium ‘Aureum’ Mahonia x media ‘Charity’

Junipers tolerate a wide range of soils and growing conditions, A vigorous, semievergreen shrub, golden privet has variegated With their attractive foliage, bright yellow flowers, and
are tough enough for hot, sunny sites, and need little pruning. leaves with bright yellow margins and bears dense clusters of decorative fruits, mahonias make magnificent architectural
‘Hibernica’, also known as the Irish juniper, forms a slender white flowers in midsummer, followed by black berries. It clips features in a winter garden. ‘Charity’ is fast-growing and has
column of crowded, needle-like leaves, each with a silver line, easily and is ideal for hedging and topiary. Shade tolerant, it can spiny holly-like leaves. Bright yellow to lemon-yellow flowers
and makes an excellent structural plant for formal gardens. be planted to brighten a shady corner of the yard. are produced in spikes from late fall to late winter.
H10–15 ft (3–10 m) S12 in (30 cm) OOOru H 12 ft (4 m) S 12 ft (4 m) OOOrSU H15 ft (5 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOOSuv
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Olearia macrodonta Photinia x fraseri ‘Red Robin’ Pittosporum tenuifolium

New Zealand holly is a vigorous evergreen shrub with This hardy evergreen shrub is grown for its conspicuous, deep A charming, upright evergreen shrub with pale grass-green,
sharply-toothed, sage-green leaves, which provide mellow red young foliage, which is produced in spring on the tips of wavy leaves and attractive black stems. The small dark purple
color all year. Fragrant, white, daisy-like flowers are borne in the branches. It looks good in a woodland garden or in a shrub flowers, produced in abundance in spring, are honey-scented at
early summer. A handsome free-standing shrub in mild areas, border, and can also be used for hedging. ‘Red Robin’ is a dusk. In mild regions, it can be grown as a specimen plant on a
it also makes an excellent screen for exposed coastal gardens. compact cultivar, with especially bright red young leaves. lawn, or used for simple topiary.
H20 ft (6 m) S15 ft (5 m) p/ OOOrU H15 ft (5 m) S15 ft (5 m) OOORSUV H12–30 ft (4–10 m) Sto 15 ft (5 m) OORSUV

Rhamnus alaternus ‘Argenteovariegata’ Rhododendron luteum Syringa vulgaris ‘Mrs Edward Harding’
This handsome, bushy, evergreen shrub bears glossy gray- An elegant deciduous azalea, R. luteum bears rounded Lilacs form spreading deciduous shrubs with pretty heart-
green leaves with creamy-white margins. Small yellow-green clusters of funnel-shaped yellow flowers in late spring, which shaped leaves, and make useful screening plants. Sweetly-
flowers appear in early summer, followed by spherical red have a delightful scent. The rich green leaves turn shades of scented flowerheads appear from spring to early summer.
berries in a warm summer, which ripen to black. It does well crimson, purple, and orange in the fall, making it a valuable There are over 500 cultivars of common lilac to choose from;
in coastal and city gardens, but needs shelter in colder areas. garden plant over a long season. It requires acid soil. ‘Mrs. Edward Harding’ has double, purple-red flowers.
H15 ft (5 m) S12 ft (4 m) OORu H12 ft (4 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOORuv Hto 22 ft (7 m) Sto 22 ft (7 m) OOORu

SHRUBS FOR HOT, DRY SITES

• Artemisia arborescens p.310 • Lonicera nitida ‘Baggesen’s
• Buddleja globosa p.300 Gold’ p.314
• Ceanothus thyrsiflorus var. • Origanum ‘Kent Beauty’
repens p.311 p.314
• Choisya x dewitteana • Pinus mugo ‘Mops’ p.315
‘Aztec Pearl’ p.305 • Potentilla fruticosa
• Cistus cultivars p.311 cultivars p.315
• Convolvulus cneorum p.311 • Ribes sanguineum
• Cytisus battandieri p.301 ‘Pulborough Scarlet’
• Escallonia ‘Apple Blossom’ p.308
p.305 • Rosmarinus officinalis p.316
Tamarix ramosissima ‘Pink Cascade’ Viburnum opulus • Helianthemum ‘Wisley • Salvia officinalis cultivars
Tamarisks are excellent shrubs for exposed coastal gardens The guelder rose is a good choice for a wildlife garden as birds Primrose’ p.313 pp.316–7
where they can make an effective screen. They have attractive, love the translucent red berries; as a bonus, the leaves also turn • Lavandula angustifolia • Santolina pinnata subs.
feathery foliage, formed of needle-like leaves. T. ramosissima a rich red in the fall. The late spring blooms are attractive, too, ‘Munstead’ p.314 neapolitana ‘Sulphurea’
is deciduous, with arching branches and upright plumes of forming lacecap-like heads of white flowers. This deciduous
• Lavatera x clementii p.317
small, pink flowers; ‘Pink Cascade’ has rich pink flowers. plant is vigorous and is commonly seen in hedgerows.
‘Barnsley’ p.307
H15 ft (5 m) S15 ft (5 m) OOORu H15 ft (5 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOORSUV
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PLANT GUIDE

Medium-sized shrubs

Abelia x grandiflora Acer palmatum Dissectum Atropurpureum Group Aucuba japonica ‘Crotonifolia’
A vigorous, semievergreen shrub with glossy dark green foliage Most Japanese maples are low-growing and shrubby, and look Hardy evergreen shrubs, spotted laurels are easy to grow and
and an abundance of fragrant, pink-flushed white flowers from their best at the front of a border; many have beautiful foliage tolerant of a wide range of growing conditions—shade, dry
midsummer to midfall. Plant either as a freestanding shrub, or and fiery fall color. A. palmatum var. dissectum forms a mound sites, and even areas with polluted air. ‘Crotonifolia’ has large,
as an informal hedge. It is best fan-trained against a sunny wall of narrow, very finely-toothed leaves, and Dissectum glossy green leaves speckled with yellow marks. In midspring,
in colder areas. Atropurpureum Group has red-purple leaves. small red-purple flowers appear, followed by red berries.
H10 ft (3 m) S12 ft (4 m) OORU H6 ft (2 m) S10 ft (3 m) OOORSuv H10 ft (3 m) S10 ft (3 m) OOORSTuv

Berberis darwinii Berberis julianae Buddleja crispa

This vigorous, dense, mounded evergreen shrub has glossy dark A handsome evergreen shrub with spiny-margined, glossy deep Perfect for planting in the shelter of a sunny wall or fence, this
green foliage on prickly stems. During spring, it bears drooping green leaves, this plant is often used as a screen. From spring to deciduous shrub has striking leaves covered in soft, grayish-
clusters of bright orange flowers, which are followed by round early summer, clusters of scented yellow or red-tinged flowers white down and woolly white young shoots. Small, fragrant,
blue-black fruit. It makes an attractive informal hedge, and are produced, followed by egg-shaped, blue-black fruits. It is lilac-pink flowers appear in long, dense clusters from mid- to
tolerates heavy clay soils. best planted where its scent will be appreciated. late summer. Attractive to bees and butterflies.
H10 ft (3 m) S10 ft (3 m) OOORSU H10 ft (3 m) S10 ft (3 m) OOORSU H10 ft (3 m) S10 ft (3 m) OO/OOORU

Buddleja davidii ‘Dartmoor’ Camellia japonica ‘Bob’s Tinsie’ Ceanothus ‘Concha’

An outstanding butterfly bush cultivar, ‘Dartmoor’ has arching Camellias make elegant evergreen flowering plants for gardens Ceanothus are cultivated for their flowers, which may be blue,
stems and soft green leaves that are white beneath. In late with acid soil. New variations of C. japonica appear every year white, or pink. C. ‘Concha’ is a good choice for a warm, sunny
summer and fall, it bears broad, open-branched plumes and there is a huge range of cultivars to choose from. ‘Bob’s wall or fence. It forms a dense evergreen shrub with finely
of highly scented, pinkish-purple flowers. Loved by butterflies Tinsie’ has an upright habit, and bears small, clear red flowers toothed, dark green leaves and produces masses of reddish-
and ideally suited to wildlife gardens. from early to late spring. Shelter from cold, drying winds. purple buds in late spring that open up to dark blue flowers.
H8 ft (2.5 m) S8 ft (2.5 m) OOORSU H6 ft (2 m) S3 ft (1 m) OOOSUv H10 ft (3 m) S10 ft (3 m) OORU
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Chaenomeles speciosa ‘Moerloosei’ Choisya x dewitteana ‘Aztec Pearl’ Cornus alba ‘Aurea’
Ornamental quinces make reliable garden shrubs, and can A compact, elegant example of Mexican orange blossom, this This golden-leaved, vigorous dogwood offers a combination
even be trained against a shaded wall or fence. This variety pretty evergreen shrub with slim dark green leaves is suitable of summer and winter interest. Throughout summer it forms
(also sold as ‘Apple Blossom’) bears large clusters of white for a small yard or container. Fragrant clusters of white a mound of broad greenish-yellow leaves and, after these drop
flowers, flushed dark pink, in spring and early summer, star-shaped flowers emerge from pink buds in late spring, in late fall, the dark red stems create a stunning display. Cut
followed by aromatic fruits. Prune after flowering. and appear again in smaller numbers in late summer and fall. down a third of the stems in spring to rejuvenate the plant.
H8 ft (2.5 m) S15 ft (5 m) OOORSU H8 ft (2.5 m) S8 ft (2.5 m) OOORsU H10 ft (3 m) S10 ft (3 m) OOORSu

Cornus alba ‘Sibirica’ Cornus sericea ‘Flaviramea’ Daphne bholua ‘Jacqueline Postill’
A deciduous, upright dogwood, ‘Sibirica’ forms a dense The winter shoots of this vigorous dogwood display their most A shrub for a border or rock garden, D. bholua is best planted in
thicket of young scarlet stems. These are seen at their best vivid color when grown in a sunny site. The plant bears white a sheltered position where the richly fragrant flowers will be
in sunshine, and set a dull winter garden ablaze with their flowers from late spring to early summer, and the dark green appreciated. This cultivar is vigorous, evergreen, and bears
fiery colors. It is one of the best cultivars for fall color, its leaves turn red and orange in fall. The form ‘Flaviramea’ clusters of deep purple-pink flowers, white inside, over a long
dark green leaves turning red before dropping. produces bright yellow-green winter stems. flowering season in late winter. Mulch to retain moisture.
H10 ft (3 m) S10 ft (3 m) OOORSU H6 ft (3 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOORSU H6 ft (2 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OO/OOORSUV

SHRUBS FOR SHADE

• Aucuba japonica • Mahonia japonica
‘Crotonifolia’ p.304 p.307 (dry shade)
(dry shade) • Rhododendron ‘Kure-no-
• Azara microphylla yuki’ p.315 (dry shade)
p.300 (dry shade) • Sarcococca hookeriana
• Buxus sempervirens var. digyna p.317
‘Suffruticosa’ p.310 (dry shade)
(dry shade) • Viburnum opulus p.303
• Chaenomeles speciosa (damp conditions)
‘Moerloosei’ p.305
(dry shade)
Erica arborea var. alpina Escallonia ‘Apple Blossom’ • Cornus alba ‘Aurea’ p.305
This tree heath makes a dense, compact, upright shrub, Tolerant of maritime conditions, this attractive evergreen shrub (damp conditions)
crowded with needle-shaped, bright green evergreen leaves. with glossy dark green leaves is a good choice for a coastal • Cornus sericea
Masses of tiny, fragrant, bell-shaped white flowers appear in garden. It is compact and bushy, and produces clusters of pink ‘Flaviramea’ p.305
spring. Grow it in acid soil for the best results, and prune hard and white flowers, similar to apple blossom, from early to
(damp conditions)
after flowering to keep it in shape and encourage new growth. midsummer. Grow as a hedge or windbreak.
H6 ft (2 m) S36 in (90 cm) OOORU H8 ft (2.5 m) S8 ft (2.5 m) OORU
306/307 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Medium-sized shrubs

Exochorda x macrantha ‘The Bride’ Fatsia japonica Fuchsia magellanica

Pure white, showy, saucer-shaped flowers on arching branches The castor oil plant is valued for its bold evergreen foliage In frost-free regions, this deciduous shrub, the hardiest of
cover this spreading evergreen shrub in late spring, making a and architectural habit. Its long-stalked, palmate, shiny dark the fuchsia species, can be grown on its own or as informal
beautiful display. Mound-forming and wider than it is tall, it is green leaves give a subtropical effect, while striking branched hedging. It carries small, lantern-like flowers with red tubes,
suitable for growing as a specimen plant, although it can also clusters of creamy-white flowers emerge in fall, followed by long red sepals, and purple petals, from midsummer through
be grown in a shrub border. small black berries. It is tolerant of coastal exposure. into fall. The flowers are followed by black fruits.
H6 ft (2 m) S10 ft (3 m) OOORSUv H5–12 ft (1.5–4 m) S5–12 ft (1.5–4 m) OORsUv Hto 10 ft (3 m) Sto 10 ft (3 m) O/pRSUv

Hebe ‘Midsummer Beauty’ Hibiscus syriacus ‘Diana’ Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’

Hebes are adaptable evergreen shrubs that suit a wide range Large showy flowers are the main allure of hibiscus cultivars. Excellent as specimen plants or in groups, in a mixed border
of growing conditions, including containers. ‘Midsummer They thrive in a sunny border and flower over a long period. or in containers, hydrangeas are versatile garden shrubs.
Beauty’, an upright, rounded shrub with purplish-brown stems ‘Diana’ is an erect, deciduous shrub with toothed, dark green ‘Annabelle’, one of the most elegant cultivars, is deciduous
and bright green leaves, bears tapering plumes of medium- leaves that produces trumpet-shaped, white flowers with and, from summer to early fall, bears large, spherical
sized, lilac-purple flowers from midsummer to late fall. wavy-margined petals, from late summer to midfall. flowerheads, crowded with creamy-white flowers.
H6 ft (2 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOORSUv H10 ft (3 m) S6 ft (2 m) OOORUv H8 ft (2.5 m) S8 ft (2.5 m) OOORSuv

Hydrangea aspera Villosa Group Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Mariesii Lilacina’ Hydrangea quercifolia SNOW QUEEN
An impressive deciduous shrub with lance-shaped, downy This rounded, deciduous shrub is grown for its mauve-pink to The oak-leaved hydrangea is grown chiefly for its deeply lobed,
dark green leaves that form an attractive background for the blue, showy lacecap flowers, which appear from mid- to late dark green leaves, which turn magnificent tints of bronze and
flattened lacecap flowerheads. Produced from late summer to summer. It makes a fine freestanding shrub, and is also useful purple in fall before dropping. From midsummer to fall, SNOW
fall, the lacecaps have large, purple-blue central clusters with for mass planting in shady areas. Leave the flowerheads on QUEEN, also known as ‘Flemygea’, produces large, white,
a ring of lilac-white flowers on the outer edge. over winter to protect the plant from frost damage. conical flowerheads, which fade to pink as they age.
H4–10 ft (1–3 m) S4–10 ft (1–3 m) OOORSUv H6 ft (2 m) S8 ft (2.5 m) OOORsUv H6 ft (2 m) S8 ft (2.5 m) OOORsUv
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Indigofera heterantha Jasminum nudiflorum Kolkwitzia amabilis ‘Pink Cloud’

Elegant, fern-like, gray-green leaves clothe the arching Winter jasmine has long, slender, arching, leafless shoots A hardy, deciduous shrub, the beauty bush forms a dense
branches of this spreading, multistemmed, deciduous shrub. bearing bright yellow flowers from winter to early spring. twiggy shape. Bell-shaped pink flowers, with yellow-flushed
From early summer through to fall, small, purple-pink, pea-like Oval, dark green leaves emerge after flowering. It is ideal throats, are borne in profusion from late spring to early summer.
flowers are carried in dense spikes. It thrives when fan-trained for training on a low wall or trellis. Prune once flowering Pale, bristly seed clusters follow. It makes a fine freestanding
against a sunny wall, especially in colder areas. has finished to maintain a neat shape. shrub, but can be planted as an informal hedge.
H6–10 ft (2–3 m) S6–10 ft (2–3 m) OOORUv H10 ft (3 m) S10 ft (3 m) OOORSu H10 ft (3 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOORu

Lavatera x clementii ‘Barnsley’ Magnolia liliiflora ‘Nigra’ Magnolia stellata

Throughout the summer, this semievergreen mallow bears One of the most reliable of all magnolias, this cultivar produces This graceful, deciduous shrub is slow-growing but well worth
very pale, blush-pink, red-eyed flowers. The lobed leaves beautiful large, dark purple-red upright flowers in early summer the wait. The star magnolia bears pure white, sometimes
are gray-green and downy. The cultivar ‘Bredon Springs’ has and intermittently into the fall. It is compact and deciduous, pink-flushed, star-shaped flowers in early spring, before the
a similar habit and flowering period, but the flowers are with glossy dark green leaves that provide a foil to the flowers. leaves emerge. A compact shrub, it is initially bushy and then
mauve-flushed and dusky pink. Both suit sandy soils. Grow as a specimen plant for the best effect. spreading. Spring frosts may damage early blooms.
H6 ft (2 m) S6 ft (2 m) OOORU H10 ft (3 m) S8 ft (2.5 m) OOORSUv H10 ft (3 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOORSUv

SHRUBS FOR FOLIAGE INTEREST

• Acer palmatum Dissectum • Elaeagnus x ebbingei
Atropurpureum ‘Gilt Edge’ p.301
p.304 • Elaeagnus ‘Quicksilver’
• Aralia elata ‘Variegata’ p.302
p.300 • Fatsia japonica p.306
• Artemisia arborescens • Hydrangea quercifolia
p.310 SNOW QUEEN p.306
• Aucuba japonica • Ilex aquifolium ‘Silver
‘Crotonifolia’ p.304 Queen’ p.302
• Berberis darwinii p.304 • Mahonia japonica p.307
• Clerodendrum trichotomum • Photinia x fraseri
var. fargesii p.300 ‘Red Robin’ p.303
Mahonia japonica Myrtus communis ‘Flore Pleno’ • Cordyline australis • Physocarpus opulifolius
Invaluable in a winter garden, this handsome evergreen Myrtle is a sun-loving, evergreen Mediterranean shrub with
‘Red Star’ p.300 ‘Diabolo’ p.308
shrub thrives in shady spots. Its spectacular, sharply-toothed, aromatic foliage. Masses of pretty, fragrant white flowers
dark green leaves glow with rich red tints in winter. Arching appear in late summer. The double blooms of ‘Flore Pleno’ look • Corylus maxima • Sambucus racemosa
spikes of fragrant, pale yellow flowers appear from late fall to like small pompons. It thrives in a sunny border and can also ‘Purpurea’ p.301 ‘Plumosa Aurea’ p.309
early spring, followed by blue-purple berries. be planted in a container, but needs shelter in cold areas. • Cotinus ‘Grace’ p.301 • Tamarix ramosissima
‘Pink Cascade’ p.303
H6 ft (2 m) S10 ft (3 m) OOOSTUv H10 ft (3 m) S10 ft (3 m) OORvW
308/309 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Medium-sized shrubs

Nandina domestica Osmanthus x burkwoodii Paeonia delavayi

The fruit, flowers, and foliage of this evergreen shrub give This hardy evergreen shrub is grown for its glossy dark green In early summer, this magnificent tree peony produces single,
it a long season of interest. The leaves have warm red tints leaves, and clusters of tiny, creamy-white trumpet-shaped cup-shaped, dark crimson flowers on long lax stems. The
in spring and fall, and small star-shaped white flowers emerge flowers, which are sweetly scented and appear from mid- handsome, deeply cut, dark green leaves are tinged burgundy in
in midsummer, followed by bright red berries. The cultivar ‘Fire to late spring. Its dense habit makes it useful for hedging spring. A stunning deciduous shrub for a mixed border; it does
Power’ is a compact form with bright red leaves. and topiary. Trim into shape after flowering. not tolerate being moved.
H6 ft (2 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOORUv H10 ft (3 m) S10 ft (3 m) OOORsU H6 ft (2 m) S4 ft (1.2 m) OOORSUV

Philadelphus ‘Belle Étoile’ Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Diabolo’ Pieris japonica ‘Blush’

Mock oranges are grown for their beautiful flowers, which Grown chiefly for its attractive purple foliage and upright A versatile evergreen shrub for acid soils, P. japonica has
are often scented and usually white. ‘Belle Étoile’ makes an red stems, this spreading deciduous shrub also produces narrow, glossy leaves, which are an attractive coppery-red
arching, deciduous shrub with tapering leaves. Its fragrant clusters of small pinkish-white flowers in late spring, followed when young. Tassels of white flowers appear from early to
white flowers are single with a maroon flush at the center, by maroon fruit. The peeling bark gives additional winter midspring. The compact cultivar ‘Blush’ has dark green leaves
and are freely produced from late spring to early summer. interest. Cut down to the ground in spring to rejuvenate. and its pink-flushed white flowers open from dark pink buds.
H4 ft (1.2 m) S8 ft (2.5 m) OOORSU H6 ft (2 m) S8 ft (2.5 m) OOORSU H6 ft (2 m) S6 ft (2 m) OOORSUv

Pyracantha SAPHYR JAUNE Ribes sanguineum ‘Pulborough Scarlet’ Rosa ‘Geranium’

Firethorns can be grown as a freestanding feature, against a Fairly upright when young, this flowering currant becomes This spectacular shrub rose has arching branches and small,
wall, or for hedging. This cultivar, also known as ‘Cadaune’, is spreading with maturity. It is a vigorous, deciduous shrub, dark green leaves. A profusion of open, scarlet flowers, with
an upright, evergreen shrub with spiny branches, dark green with aromatic leaves and clusters of dark red, white-centered prominent cream stamens is produced in summer, followed
leaves, and small, white late-spring flowers. Its bright yellow tubular flowers in spring, followed by round, blue-black berries. by blazing orange-red, bottle-shaped hips in fall, which extend
fall fruits provide a flash of color as winter approaches. It is ideal for the back of a mixed border. the season of visual interest.
H12 ft (4 m) S10 ft (3 m) OOORSU H10 ft (3 m) S8 ft (2.5 m) OOORU H8 ft (2.5 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOORUV
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Rubus ‘Benenden’ Sambucus nigra ‘Eva’ Sambucus racemosa ‘Plumosa Aurea’

An ornamental, deciduous member of the bramble family This graceful elder is attractive for most of the year. The dark A bushy plant with arching shoots; the deeply cut leaves, which
with arching, thornless stems, this shrub is grown for its large, purple lacy foliage provides color contrast in a mixed border. are bronze in youth and mature to golden yellow, provide a bright
pure white, rose-like flowers, which appear in abundance from Showy pale pink, lemon-scented, flattened flowerheads appear splash of color in a border. Small, creamy yellow flowers appear in
late spring to early summer. It is suitable for a shady shrub in midsummer, followed by dark red elderberries. Full sun is best midspring, followed by round, glossy red fruits in summer. The
border, and is very attractive to butterflies. for foliage color. It is also sold as ‘Black Lace’. foliage may scorch in hot sun.
H10 ft (3 m) S10 ft (3 m) OOORSU H10 ft (3 m) S6 ft (2 m) OOORSUV H10 ft (3 m) S10 ft (3 m) OOORSUv

Skimmia x confusa ‘Kew Green’ Spiraea nipponica ‘Snowmound’ Viburnum x bodnantense

In spring, this compact, mounded, evergreen shrub produces At its peak in early summer, this spiraea presents a marvelous Useful for providing winter interest in a garden, this shrub
dense, conical heads of fragrant, creamy-white flowers above display, with clusters of bowl-shaped white flowers carried all produces clusters of scented, tubular, rose-tinted flowers
deep green, pointed, aromatic leaves. Suitable for a shady along the upper sides of the arching stems. Deciduous, fast- on bare stems over a long season, from late fall to spring.
border or woodland garden, it also looks attractive in a growing, and densely leaved, it forms a spreading shape and It is upright and deciduous, with toothed, dark green leaves.
container. An adaptable shrub, it can cope with polluted air. is perfect for growing near the back of a sunny mixed border. A range of cultivars is available; ‘Deben’ has white flowers.
H10 ft (3 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOOsTUv H8 ft (2.5 m) S8 ft (2.5 m) OOORUV H10 ft (3 m) S6 ft (2 m) OOORSUV

SHRUBS FOR GROUND COVER

• Calluna vulgaris ‘Gold • Juniperus procumbens
Haze’ p.310 p.313
• Ceanothus thyrsiflorus • Juniperus squamata
var. repens p.311 ‘Blue Carpet’ p.314
• Cotoneaster dammeri • Lonicera pileata p.314
p.312 • Picea abies ‘Reflexa’ p.315
• Cotoneaster horizontalis • Potentilla fruticosa
p.312 ‘Dart’s Golddigger’
• Cotoneaster salicifolius p.92
‘Gnom’ p.312 • Prunus laurocerasus
• Euonymus fortunei ‘Zabeliana’ p.315
Viburnum carlesii ‘Aurora’ Viburnum plicatum f. tomentosum ‘Mariesii’ ‘Emerald Gaiety’ • Santolina
Suitable for a border or woodland garden, this deciduous shrub This viburnum has distinctive extended horizontal branches that p.312 chamaecyparissus p.92
is densely bushy with irregularly toothed, dark green leaves. create a striking architectural effect, which is best appreciated • Hebe pinguifolia • Vinca major p.93
‘Aurora’ is mainly grown for its clusters of perfumed flowers, when the shrub is grown as a specimen plant in a lawn. The ‘Pagei’ p.313 • Vinca minor ‘La Grave’
which emerge in midspring. The buds are initially red and then flowers are white and the heart-shaped, dark green leaves
• Helianthemum ‘Wisley p.317
open up to the pink tubular blooms. turn red-purple in fall.
Primrose’ p.313
H6 ft (2 m) S6 ft (2 m) OOORSUV H10 ft (3 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOORSUV
310/311 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Small shrubs

Artemisia arborescens Ballota ‘All Hallows Green’ Berberis x stenophylla ‘Corallina Compacta’
Grown for its silver-gray, feathery foliage, this evergreen shrub Originally from the Mediterranean, ballota thrives in dry, This is a compact cultivar of the much larger evergreen shrub,
is tolerant of exposed sites and is useful in a coastal garden. It free-draining, sunny sites and makes an attractive edging B. x stenophylla, which can be grown as an informal hedge.
carries clusters of small yellow flowers in summer and fall, but plant. This cultivar forms a bushy evergreen subshrub with Like its parent, it has arching stems and narrow, spine-tipped,
is most valued for its elegant leaves. It is also suitable for a heart-shaped, lime green leaves. Small, pale green flowers dark green leaves. In late spring, small clusters of pale orange
herb or rock garden. appear in midsummer. Trim in spring to keep the shrub compact. flowers open from red buds along the branches.
H3 ft (1 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOORU H24 in (60 cm) S30 in (75 cm) OO/OOORU H12 in (30 cm) S12 in (30 cm) OOORSU

Berberis thunbergii ‘Aurea’ Berberis thunbergii f. atropurpurea Berberis thunbergii f. atropurpurea

Create a splash of color in the garden with this compact, ‘Atropurpurea Nana’ ‘Helmond Pillar’
deciduous berberis, which has vivid yellow young foliage, A dwarf, dome-shaped berberis with rounded, red-purple This deciduous barberry has distinctive columnar stems and
maturing to yellow-green. Pale yellow flowers are produced leaves, a dense, twiggy habit, and small bright red berries dark wine-red leaves, which turn bright red in fall. Tiny yellow
along the branches in midspring, followed by glossy red fruit. that are attractive to birds. It tolerates polluted air and is flowers appear in spring, followed by red berries. Its upright
Suitable for hedging, but the leaves may scorch in full sun. a very adaptable shrub, ideal for a border or a rock garden. habit makes it useful for filling gaps in a border.
H5 ft (1.5 m) S6 ft (2 m) OOOSU H24 in (60 cm) S30 in (75 cm) OOORSU H4 ft (1.2 m) S24 in (60 cm) OOORSU

Buxus sempervirens ‘Elegantissima’ Buxus sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’ Calluna vulgaris ‘Gold Haze’
Mainly grown for its foliage, box is easily clipped into shape, This compact, very slow-growing selection of box is good Heathers are robust plants and make good low-maintenance
making it perfect for edging and topiary. ‘Elegantissima’ is for hedging or screens, and is one of the best types for the ground cover. There are many cultivars to choose from, all
a variegated cultivar and makes a dome-shaped bush with structure of a knot garden or parterre. Its dense habit makes derived from C. vulgaris, a hardy, bushy, evergreen shrub that
small, narrow, white-margined evergreen leaves. Tiny, it easy to trim into different shapes. It prefers partial shade, but grows on acid soils in the wild. ‘Gold Haze’ has pale yellow
star-shaped flowers appear in spring. can tolerate full sun if it is not allowed to get too dry. leaves and short spikes of white bell-shaped flowers.
H5 ft (1.5 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOOSU H3 ft (1 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOOSU Hto 24 in (60 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOORU
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Calluna vulgaris ‘Spring Cream’ Caryopteris x clandonensis ‘Worcester Gold’ Ceanothus x delileanus ‘Gloire de Versailles’
A compact heather with mid-green leaves, which are tipped The small but vivid blue flowers are the main attraction of Also known as California lilac, ceanothus are grown for their
with cream in spring, this cultivar produces short spikes of Caryopteris. The cultivar ‘Worcester Gold’ has lavender-blue abundant blue, pink, or white flowers. ‘Gloire de Versailles’
white bell-shaped flowers that remain from midsummer flowers, which are produced from late summer to early is a fast-growing, bushy, deciduous shrub with finely-toothed,
until late fall. Along with other heathers, it is attractive fall on the current year’s shoots. They stand out against mid-green leaves. From midsummer to fall, it produces loose
to bees. Grow on a moist, but free-draining sunny bank. a dense mound of warm yellow, deciduous foliage. bunches of scented, powder blue flowers.
H14 in (35 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOORU H3 ft (1 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOORU H5 ft (1.5 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOORU

Ceanothus thyrsiflorus var. repens Ceratostigma willmottianum Cistus x dansereaui ‘Decumbens’

Also known as creeping blueblossom, this is a useful, low- This loosely-domed, deciduous shrub produces clusters Rock roses prefer a sunny site and can be grown in beds or
growing, evergreen ceanothus. It forms a natural mound of of pale to mid-blue flowers from late summer to fall. The containers. The flowers, usually white or pink, only last a day
glossy mid-green foliage and, in late spring, produces an pointed, bristly leaves are initially mid- to dark green with but are carried in profusion. ‘Decumbens’ is a low-growing,
abundance of fluffy, pale to dark blue flowers. A perfect purple margins and then turn red in fall. It needs a spreading, evergreen shrub that bears large white flowers
shrub for the front of a border or to clothe a sunny bank. warm, sunny sheltered site to thrive. with a crimson blotch at the base of each petal.
H3 ft (1 m) S8 ft (2.5 m) OOORU H3 ft (1 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOORUv H24 in (60 cm) S3 ft (1 m) OOORU

SHRUBS FOR SPRING INTEREST

• Berberis darwinii p.304 • Photinia x fraseri
• Camellia japonica ‘Bob’s ‘Red Robin’ p.303
Tinsie’ p.304 • Prunus x cistena p.315
• Camellia reticulata • Prunus laurocerasus
‘Leonard Messel’ p.300 ‘Zabeliana’ p.315
• Ceanothus ‘Concha’ p.304 • Rhododendron ‘Kure-no-
• Ceanothus thyrsiflorus yuki’ p.315
var. repens p.311 • Ribes sanguineum
• Choisya x dewitteana ‘Pulborough Scarlet’
‘Aztec Pearl’ p.305 p.308
• Euphorbia characias • Viburnum x burkwoodii
subsp. wulfenii ‘John ‘Anne Russell’ p.317
Cistus x purpureus Convolvulus cneorum Tomlinson’ p.312 • Viburnum carlesii ‘Aurora’
The narrow, green leaves of this rounded, evergreen shrub With its silky, silvery leaves and stems, this convolvulus is an
• Exochorda x macrantha p.309
make a good foil for the single, crinkled, dark pink flowers, asset even when not in bloom. The delicate flowers emerge
which appear in succession throughout summer. Each petal from pink buds from late spring to summer, and are white and ‘The Bride’ p.306 • Viburnum opulus p.303
has a crimson mark at the base. The stems are upright and funnel-shaped with yellow centers. In colder areas, grow in a • Lonicera pileata p.314 • Viburnum plicatum
red-flushed. It is drought-tolerant and needs a sunny site. pot and move into a sunroom or greenhouse over winter. • Magnolia stellata p.307 f. tomentosum ‘Mariesii’
p.309
H3 ft (1 m) S3 ft (1 m) OOORU H24 in (60 cm) S36 in (90 cm) OOORU
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PLANT GUIDE

Small shrubs

Coronilla valentina subsp. glauca Cotoneaster dammeri Cotoneaster horizontalis

The leaves of this bushy, rounded evergreen shrub are an Evergreen cotoneasters offer color and texture year-round, and Grown for the herringbone pattern formed by its branching
attractive blue-green and fleshy. From late winter to early are at their best in fall when the berries develop. C. dammeri is stems, this decorative shrub is best grown as ground cover or
spring, and again in late summer, fragrant, yellow, pea-like vigorous and spreading with long arching stems, and makes trained against a wall. Small white flowers appear in spring,
flowers appear, followed by slim pods. Either grow it in a excellent ground cover. Small, white flowers are borne in early followed by bright red fruits, which make a brilliant display.
shrub border or at the base of a warm, sunny wall. summer, followed in fall by round red berries. The glossy, dark green deciduous leaves turn red in fall.
H32 in (80 cm) S32 in (80 cm) OO/OOORU H8 in (20 cm) S6 ft (2 m) OOORsU H3 ft (1 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOORsU

Cotoneaster salicifolius ‘Gnom’ Daphne cneorum Daphne odora ‘Aureomarginata’

This dwarf, evergreen shrub makes a prostrate, dense dome, A low-growing, evergreen shrub with trailing branches and This evergreen species of daphne is one of the most fragrant
with wide-spreading branches bearing small, slender, dark dense clusters of scented, pale to deep rose-pink flowers flowering shrubs for a winter garden. The variegated cultivar
green leaves. In early summer, white flowers are produced in late spring. The leaves are small, leathery, and dark green. ‘Aureomarginata’ has leaves with narrow yellow margins.
and these are followed by clusters of bright red fruits in the Grow it in a border near a path or window, where its fragrance Clusters of pink trumpet-shaped flowers appear from
fall. It is a good choice for ground cover. will be appreciated. It resents transplanting. midwinter to early spring, followed by red fruit.
H12 in (30 cm) S6 ft (2 m) OOORU H12 in (30 cm) Sto 3 ft (1 m) OOORSU H5 ft (1.5 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OORSU

Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald Gaiety’ Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii Hebe ‘Great Orme’
Poor soil and full sun suit many E. fortunei cultivars, making ‘John Tomlinson’ Adaptable shrubs, hebes will grow in a wide range of garden
them useful shrubs for difficult sites. They make good ground This striking evergreen shrub produces upright stems with situations, from a mixed border to a rock garden. ‘Great Orme’
cover, and can be fan-trained against a wall if supported. The gray-green leaves one year, followed the next spring by is an open, rounded, evergreen shrub with deep purplish shoots
evergreen ‘Emerald Gaiety’ is compact and bushy, with bright large showy heads of small, bright, yellow-green cup-shaped and glossy, dark green leaves. Spikes of deep pink flowers,
green leaves with white margins, tinged pink in winter. flowers, which last from early spring to early summer. fading to white, appear from midsummer to midfall.
H3 ft (1 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOORSU H4 ft (1.2 m) S4 ft (1.2 m) OORU H4 ft (1.2 m) S4 ft (1.2 m) OORSUV
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Hebe macrantha Hebe ochracea ‘James Stirling’ Hebe pinguifolia ‘Pagei’

This evergreen is bushy, initially open-branched and then Hebes with small leaves lying flat against the stems are known An evergreen, semiprostrate shrub, ‘Pagei’ has small, slightly
later spreading, with oval, fleshy, bright green leaves. In as whipcords and make good rock garden plants. ‘James Stirling’ cupped blue-green leaves. Short spikes of delicate, pure white
early summer, large white flowers are produced in clusters forms a dense, small bush, and has rich ochre-yellow leaves, flowers emerge in profusion in late spring or early summer. It is
of three. It is suitable for a container or rock garden, and needs which look especially attractive in winter. Small white flowers an excellent plant for a rock garden or for ground cover, and
little or no pruning. are produced in late spring and early summer. needs little or no pruning. It flowers best in full sun.
H24 in (60 cm) S36 in (90 cm) OORSUV H18 in (45 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOORSUV H12 in (30 cm) S36 in (90 cm) OOORSUV

Hebe ‘Red Edge’ Helianthemum ‘Wisley Primrose’ Helichrysum italicum subsp. serotinum
A decorative small shrub, ‘Red Edge’ has gray-green leaves that Also known as rock roses, helianthemums are sun-loving, The curry plant is a low-growing, evergreen subshrub with
have narrow red margins and veins when the foliage is young. carpeting plants that thrive in a rock garden or on a sunny woolly stems and intensely aromatic, slim, silver-gray leaves.
Lilac-blue flowers, which fade to white, are produced in spikes bank. ‘Wisley Primrose’ forms low hummocks of evergreen, From summer to fall, it produces dark yellow flowers, which
in summer. It is mound-forming and makes an attractive plant gray-green foliage, and bears plenty of saucer-shaped, pale many designers remove if using the plant for its foliage. One
for edging, or for the front of a border. yellow flowers with deep yellow centers, throughout summer. of the best silver shrubs for a dry, sunny site.
H18 in (45 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OORSUV Hto 12 in (30 cm) Sto 18 in (45 cm) OOORU H24 in (60 cm) S3 ft (1 m) OORU

SHRUBS FOR SUMMER COLOR

• Abelia x grandiflora p.304 • Magnolia liliiflora
• Buddleja globosa p.300 ‘Nigra’ p.307
• Buddleja davidii • Paeonia delavayi p.308
‘Dartmoor’ p.304 • Perovskia ‘Blue Spire’
• Caryopteris x clandonensis p.314
‘Worcester Gold’ p.311 • Phygelius x rectus ‘African
• Cistus x purpureus p.311 Queen’ p.314
• Cytisus battandieri p.301 • Potentilla fruticosa
• Escallonia ‘Apple ‘Goldfinger’ p.315
Blossom’ p.305 • Rhododendron ‘Golden
• Helianthemum ‘Wisley Torch’ p.315
Juniperus x pfitzeriana ‘Pfitzeriana Aurea’ Juniperus procumbens Primrose’ p.313 • Rhododendron
Junipers are hardy conifers, tolerant of a wide range of soils Creeping juniper is a dwarf species with long, stiff branches • Kolkwitzia amabilis luteum p.303
and growing conditions. J. x pfitzeriana is a spreading shrub, that intertwine to form a mat, making it excellent as ground ‘Pink Cloud’ p.307 • Rosa ‘Geranium’ p.308
eventually forming a flat-topped bush with tiered foliage. cover and in rock gardens. It has needle-like, bluish-green • Lavandula angustifolia
‘Pfitzeriana Aurea’ has golden yellow leaves, which turn leaves, and small brown or black berry-like cones. It grows
‘Munstead’ p.314
yellowish-green over winter. Junipers need little pruning. best in a sunny, open position.
• Lavandula stoechas p.314
H36 in (90 cm) S6 ft (2 m) OOORU Hto 20 in (50 cm) Sto 6 ft (2 m) OOORU
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PLANT GUIDE

Small shrubs

Juniperus squamata ‘Blue Carpet’ Lavandula angustifolia ‘Munstead’ Lavandula stoechas

The wide-spreading stems of this vigorous, prostrate juniper This evergreen, compact, bushy lavender has narrow, aromatic, French lavender is a compact shrub that blooms from late spring
create a wide, undulating, low mat of prickly foliage, making it gray-green leaves. From mid- to late summer, dense spikes to summer. Dense spikes of fragrant dark purple flowers, topped
an excellent plant for ground cover. The cultivar ‘Blue Carpet’ of small, fragrant blue-purple flowers are produced on long by distinctive rose-purple bracts, are carried on long stalks
is fast-growing, with needle-like, aromatic leaves that are a stalks. Lavenders prefer warm conditions but suit a variety above the silvery-gray leaves. It grows best in a warm, sunny
bright steely blue. of situations, from a shrub border to a rock garden. site, and also makes a good container plant.
H12 in (30 cm) S6–10 ft (2–3 m) OOORU H18 in (45 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOORU H24 in (60 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OO/OOORU

Lonicera nitida ‘Baggesen’s Gold’ Lonicera pileata Origanum ‘Kent Beauty’

This decorative, dense evergreen shrub has long arching shoots With its wide-spreading habit, the shrubby honeysuckle is A pretty addition to a rock garden or container, this decorative
and masses of tiny bright yellow leaves. Small yellow-green a good plant for ground cover. It is a low-growing evergreen subshrub (a cultivar of the herb oregano) has slender trailing
flowers are borne in midspring and are occasionally followed by with narrow dark green leaves, and in late spring it produces stems and smooth aromatic leaves. In late summer, hop-like
purplish fruits. Its golden foliage will brighten up a border, tiny, funnel-shaped, creamy-white flowers, which are clusters of pale pink flowers appear above rose-tinted green
or it can be planted as a hedge. occasionally followed by purple fruits. bracts. It prefers a sunny position.
H5 ft (1.5 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOORU H24 in (60 cm) S8 ft (2.5 m) OOORU H4 in (10 cm) Sto 8 in (20 cm) OOORU

Perovskia ‘Blue Spire’ Phlomis fruticosa Phygelius x rectus ‘African Queen’

Russian sage forms a clump of gray-green toothed leaves. A mound-forming evergreen shrub, Jerusalem sage has This upright evergreen shrub has dark green leaves and
In late summer, gray-white upright stems carry elegant spires aromatic, wrinkled, gray-green leaves, which are woolly graceful upward-curving branches. The pendent tubular flowers
of small, tubular purple-blue flowers. An eye-catching plant for underneath, and produces short spikes of hooded dark yellow produced by the cultivar ‘African Queen’ are brightly colored:
a border, it looks particularly effective when planted in groups. flowers from early to midsummer. It looks effective when pale red with orange-red lobes and yellow mouths. Deadhead
The frosty-looking stems are attractive in winter. massed in a border, and also suits a sunny gravel garden. regularly to encourage further flowering.
H4 ft (1.2 m) S3 ft (1 m) OOORU H3 ft (1 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OO/OOORU H3 ft (1 m) S4 ft (1.2 m) OORUv
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Picea abies ‘Reflexa’ Pinus mugo ‘Mops’ Potentilla fruticosa ‘Abbotswood’

This is an unusual creeping variety of Norway spruce with The evergreen dwarf mountain pine forms a spherical mound In summer and early fall, this low, domed shrub is covered
red-brown bark and blunt, dark green needle-like leaves. of thick branches bearing dark green needles and brown cones. with small white flowers, set against a background of divided,
The long trailing branches form a dense spreading carpet, It grows best in a sunny position and would suit a rock garden dark blue-green leaves. Shrubby potentillas are compact,
making this an excellent conifer for ground cover. It needs or large container; the shrub’s rounded shape also creates bushy, deciduous plants and their long flowering season
a sunny position to thrive. a cloud-like effect when it is planted en masse. makes them ideal for a mixed border or a low hedge.
Hto 6 in (15 cm) Sindefinite OOORUv H3 ft (1 m) S3 ft (1 m) OOORU H30 in (75 cm) S4 ft (1.2 m) OOORU

Potentilla fruticosa ‘Goldfinger’ Prunus x cistena Prunus laurocerasus ‘Zabeliana’

There are numerous cultivars of shrubby potentilla to choose Valued for its foliage and flowers, this ornamental cherry is The cherry laurel is an evergreen bushy shrub, which looks its
from, with flower colors ranging from white, yellow, and a slow-growing, upright deciduous shrub with glossy oval best in spring when long spikes of cup-shaped, fragrant white
orange to shades of pink and red. ‘Goldfinger’ is covered in leaves that are red when young, maturing to a rich purple- flowers appear. ‘Zabeliana’ has a low, wide-spreading habit,
large, saucer-shaped, rich yellow flowers, from late spring red. Delicate white flowers appear in late spring, before the making it suitable for ground cover. The flowers are followed
to fall, and has small deep green leaves. leaves, and may be followed by dark purple fruit. by red, cherry-like fruits, which later turn black.
H3 ft (1 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOORU H5 ft (1.5 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOORUV H3 ft (1 m) S8 ft (2.5 m) OOORsUV

FALL- AND WINTER-

FLOWERING SHRUBS
• Azara microphylla (late • Jasminum nudiflorum
winter to early spring) (winter to early spring)
p.300 p.307
• Chimonanthus praecox • Mahonia japonica (late
‘Grandiflorus’ (winter) fall to early spring)
p.300 p.307
• Cornus mas (winter) • Mahonia x media
p.300 ‘Charity’ (late fall to
• Coronilla valentina subsp. late winter) p.302
glauca (late winter to • Sarcococca hookeriana
early spring) p.312 var. digyna (winter)
Rhododendron ‘Golden Torch’ Rhododendron ‘Kure-no-yuki’ • Elaeagnus x ebbingei p.317
This small evergreen shrub has medium-sized leaves and A dwarf azalea with a compact habit, ‘Kure-no-yuki’ has small ‘Gilt Edge’ (mid- to • Viburnum x bodnantense
is popularly grown for its trusses of flowers, which emerge leaves and produces clusters of pure white flowers in mid- late fall) p.301 (late fall to spring)
as salmon-pink buds and open to funnel-shaped, pale spring. Azaleas prefer sheltered conditions in deep, acid soil • Hamamelis x intermedia p.309
creamy-yellow blooms in late spring and early summer. and do best in a woodland garden in dappled shade. This
‘Pallida’ (mid- and
Rhododendrons need acid soil and some shade to thrive. cultivar would make a pretty feature in a Japanese garden.
late winter) p.302
H5 ft (1.5 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOOSUV H3 ft (1 m) S3 ft (1 m) OOOSUV
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PLANT GUIDE

Small shrubs

Rosa ANNA FORD Rosa ‘Golden Wings’ Rosa PEARL DRIFT

There are roses for virtually every situation, but whether This bushy, spreading shrub rose is suitable for hedging or a A vigorous shrub rose, spreading in habit, PEARL DRIFT produces
they are grown in pots, against a wall, or in a border, most border. It has prickly stems and light green leaves, and bears clusters of lightly scented, semidouble, pale pink flowers from
prefer a sunny site. This is a compact, dwarf floribunda rose cupped, fragrant, single pale yellow flowers from summer to summer to fall, against a background of glossy dark green
with dark green leaves and semidouble, orange-red blooms fall. A position in full sun will encourage repeat flowering. leaves. It is ideal for a mixed cottage-style border, and is also
that appear over a long season from summer to fall. Apple green hips follow the flowers. sold under the official cultivar name of ‘Leggab’.
H18 in (45 cm) S16 in (40 cm) OOORUV H3.5 ft (1.1 m) S4.5 ft (1.3 m) OOORUV H3 ft (1 m) S4 ft (1.2 m OOORUV

Rosa ‘The Fairy’ Rosa WILDEVE Rosmarinus officinalis

Suited to a border or a container, ‘The Fairy’ is a small shrub This robust rose has long, arching stems and forms a bushy Rosemary is a tough evergreen Mediterranean shrub, grown
rose with a dense cushion-forming habit. The thorny stems are shrub. The flower buds are pink, and open to fully-double, for its aromatic leaves. It forms an attractive upright plant
covered with small, glossy leaves, and from late summer to apricot-flushed pink fragrant blooms, which appear from late with slim, leathery leaves, and produces tubular, purple-blue
fall it produces sprays of small, double, pink flowers. spring to early summer. Grow WILDEVE in a mixed border, or to white flowers from midspring to early fall. It needs a
H24–36 in (60–90 cm) S24–36 in (60–90 cm) use for hedging. Its official cultivar name is ‘Ausbonny’. well-drained site and suits a rock or herb garden.
OOORUV H3.5 ft (1.1 m) S2.5 ft (1.25 m) OOORUV H5 ft (1.5 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OORU

Ruta graveolens Salvia microphylla Salvia officinalis ‘Purpurascens’

This evergreen subshrub, also known as common rue, is From late summer to fall this salvia bears crimson flowers The aromatic downy leaves of this shrubby evergreen or semi-
grown for its aromatic, deeply divided blue-green leaves and among its mid- to deep green leaves. It makes a colorful evergreen perennial are purple when young, and later grayish-
is sometimes used as a medicinal herb. Cup-shaped yellow addition to a late season border or herb garden, but needs green. Purple sage is used as a culinary herb but is also
flowers appear in summer. The foliage makes a wonderful a sunny site to produce its best flower display. decorative in a gravel garden or mixed border. Blue-purple
addition to a pastel-colored garden plan or a herb garden. H36–48 in (90–120 cm) S24–39 in (60–100 cm) flowers are borne on spikes in early and midsummer.
H3 ft (1 m) S30 in (75 cm) OOORU OORU Hto 32 in (80 cm) S3 ft (1 m) OORU
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Salvia officinalis ‘Tricolor’ Santolina pinnata subsp. neapolitana ‘Sulphurea’ Sarcococca hookeriana var. digyna
This cultivar of the common sage has gray-green leaves with An evergreen shrub native to the Mediterranean, santolina The robustness of this winter-flowering evergreen makes it a
creamy-white margins, flushed pink when young. It makes a forms a low, domed shape. The primrose-yellow, tubular useful shrub for difficult sites in the garden, as it will tolerate
compact plant and colors best in a sunny site. The leaves are flowers form button-like heads on long stems above narrow, dry shade and air pollution, and needs very little attention. It
aromatic and can be used for culinary purposes, while the feathery, gray-green leaves. It is useful as edging, and as has slender, tapered dark green leaves and is prized for its
flowers are attractive to bees and butterflies. part of a Mediterranean-style garden plan. highly fragrant white flowers, followed by black fruit.
Hto 32 in (80 cm) S3 ft (1 m) OORU H30 in (75 cm) S3 ft (1 m) OORU H5 ft (1.5 m) S6 ft (2 m) OOOSTUV

Viburnum x burkwoodii ‘Anne Russell’ Viburnum davidii Vinca minor ‘La Grave’
This compact, deciduous or semievergreen shrub produces This evergreen shrub forms a dome of dark green gleaming Woodland plants in the wild, periwinkles bear decorative,
clusters of intensely fragrant white flowers from mid- to late foliage on branching stems. The flowers appear above the star-shaped flowers on slender stems. The evergreen foliage
spring. ‘Anne Russell’ is suited to growing in a shrub border or deeply veined, oval leaves in late spring, producing flattened and pretty flowers make attractive ground cover, although
woodland garden; plant it close to a seating area or pathway heads of small white blooms. Where male and female plants they can be invasive and may need cutting back regularly. ‘La
to make the most of its spring scent. are grown together, metallic-blue fruits form on the female. Grave’ (also seen as ‘Bowles’ Blues’) has lavender-blue flowers.
H5 ft (1.5 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOORSUV H3–5 ft (1–1.5 m) S3–5 ft (1–1.5 m) OOORSUV H4–8 in (10–20 cm) Sindefinite OOORSUV

EVERGREEN SHRUBS
• Aucuba japonica • Escallonia ‘Apple
‘Crotonifolia’ p.304 Blossom’ p.305
• Azara microphylla p.300 • Fatsia japonica p.306
• Berberis darwinii p.304 • Itea ilicifolia p.302
• Berberis julianae p.304 • Ligustrum ovalifolium
• Camellia japonica ‘Bob’s ‘Aureum’ p.302
Tinsie’ p.304 • Olearia macrodonta p.303
• Camellia reticulata • Osmanthus x burkwoodii
‘Leonard Messel’ p.300 p.308
• Ceanothus ‘Concha’ p.304 • Pieris japonica
• Choisya x dewitteana ‘Blush’ p.308
Weigela florida ‘Foliis Purpureis’ Yucca filamentosa ‘Bright Edge’ ‘Aztec Pearl’ p.305 • Rhamnus alaternus
This is a dark-leaved cultivar of the deciduous, arching shrub A dramatic architectural plant, the yucca suits a hot, dry site, • Cotoneaster lacteus p.301 ‘Argenteovariegata’
Weigela florida. Funnel-shaped flowers, deep pink on the making it a good specimen plant for a warm courtyard. Yucca • Daphne bholua p.303
outside and pale pink to white inside, are produced in late filamentosa produces stems of bell-shaped white flowers, ‘Jacqueline Postill’ p.305 • Skimmia x confusa
spring and early summer, and look striking against the tapered tinged green, from mid- to late summer. The leaves of ‘Bright
• Elaeagnus x ebbingei ‘Gilt ‘Kew Green’ p.309
bronze-green foliage. Grow in a mixed or shrub border. Edge’ have broad yellow margins.
Edge’ p.301
H3 ft (1 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOORSU H30 in (75 cm) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOORU
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PLANT GUIDE

Climbers

Actinidia kolomikta Akebia quinata Ampelopsis brevipedunculata

This deciduous climber’s main attraction is the masses of Also known as the chocolate vine, A. quinata is a vigorous This vigorous, deciduous climber is valued for its attractive
purple-tinged young leaves, which later turn dark green with semievergreen with attractive leaves and strong, twining foliage and ornamental berries. The small summer flowers
distinctive pink and silver splashes. Small, slightly scented stems. Clusters of cup-shaped, purplish female flowers in are green, and are followed by eye-catching, round,
white flowers appear in early summer. Although it is slow spring are followed by unusual sausage-shaped fruits. pinkish-purple berries, which later turn a clear blue. Ideal for
to establish, it is well worth the wait. Grow against a wall or train into a tree or pergola. a warm, sheltered wall since fruiting is best in a sunny site.
H15 ft (5 m) OOORU H30 ft (10 m) OOORSUV H15 ft (5 m) OOORSUV

Campsis x tagliabuana ‘Madame Galen’ Clematis armandii Clematis ‘Bill MacKenzie’

The trumpet creeper is a fast-growing, deciduous climber, This popular clematis is a vigorous climber and one of the A vigorous, scrambling clematis, ‘Bill MacKenzie’ has small,
which clings by aerial roots. In late summer or early fall, hardiest of the evergreen species, bearing glossy, dark green single, yellow lantern-like nodding flowers in late summer
‘Madame Galen’ bears clusters of tubular, reddish-orange leaves and producing masses of small, white scented flowers and fall, followed by large silky seedheads. The plant needs
flowers that look striking against the rich green divided in early spring. It prefers a sunny, sheltered site and will clothe support from wires or netting, or leave it to scramble through
leaves. It may take a few seasons to establish. a wall or shed with ease. shrubs and trees.
H10–15 ft (3–5 m) OORUV H10–15 ft (3–5 m) OORSUV H22 ft (7 m) OOORSUV

Clematis ‘Étoile Violette’ Clematis florida var. florida ‘Sieboldiana’ Clematis ‘Huldine’
From midsummer to late fall, this deciduous viticella clematis This deciduous or semievergreen clematis bears showy, A vigorous, deciduous, summer-flowering clematis, well suited
produces masses of small, nodding, deep violet flowers with single creamy white flowers with a distinctive domed cluster to walls and fences. The small, cup-shaped, almost translucent
cream stamens. Flowers are produced on the current year’s of purple stamens in late spring or summer. It does best in a white flowers with pale mauve margins and a mauve stripe
growth. ‘Étoile Violette’ can be grown through other shrubs warm, sunny, sheltered location where its roots are shaded beneath appear in summer. They are particularly attractive in
or on a wall or fence. and moist. It is also suitable for growing in large containers. sunshine when the stripes are more evident.
H10–15 ft (3–5 m) OOORSUV H6–8 ft (2–2.5 m) OORSUV H10–15 ft (3–5 m) OOORSUV
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Clematis ‘Markham’s Pink’ Clematis montana var. rubens Clematis ‘The President’
This early-flowering macropetala clematis is vigorous and White-flowered Clematis montana is a popular favorite: easy A free-flowering early clematis, ‘The President’ produces large,
prolific, producing masses of bell-shaped, double, rich pink to grow, vigorous, and very adaptable to a wide variety of single, rich blue-purple flowers in summer, followed by spiky
flowers from spring to early summer, followed by silky garden conditions. Many cultivars are available, including this seedheads. It suits pergolas and fences but its compact habit
seedheads in fall. Try growing through a shrub or small pale pink flowering form, which bears a mass of four-petaled also makes it ideal for large containers. It makes a good partner
tree, or against a wall or fence. flowers with cream anthers in late spring and early summer. for climbing roses that flower at the same time.
H8–11 ft (2.5–3.5 m) OOORSUV H30 ft (10 m) OOORSUV H6–10 ft (2–3 m) OOORSUV

Eccremocarpus scaber Hardenbergia violacea Hedera colchica ‘Sulphur Heart’

The Chilean glory flower is an evergreen, perennial, fast- The purple coral pea is a strong-growing Australian native The Persian ivy cultivars ‘Sulphur Heart’ and ‘Dentata
growing climber with attractive ferny leaves. In warmer and does best in a sunny position outdoors, but is suitable Variegata’ have similar large light green leaves with cream
areas it will quickly clothe a trellis or pergola, or scramble for a greenhouse in cold regions. From late winter to early splashes. ‘Sulphur Heart’ (also known as ‘Paddy’s Pride’) grows
through a large shrub or small tree. From late spring to fall, summer, clusters of violet pea-like flowers appear against more rapidly, however, and the slightly more elongated leaves
spikes of orange-red tubular flowers appear. the leathery rich green leaves. are splashed with creamy yellow.
H10–15 ft (3–5 m) OORU H6 ft (2 m) or more ORSU H15 ft (5 m) OOORUV

CLIMBERS FOR SPRING AND

SUMMER FLOWERS
• Campsis x tagliabuana • Lonicera periclymenum
‘Madame Galen’ p.318 Serotina Group p.320
• Clematis armandii p.318 • Passiflora caerulea p.320
• Clematis ‘Bill • Rosa ‘Compassion’ p.320
MacKenzie’ p.318 • Rosa ‘Félicité
• Clematis ‘Étoile Perpétue’ p.320
Violette’ p.318 • Solanum crispum
• Clematis ‘Markham’s ‘Glasnevin’ p.321
Pink’ p.319 • Solanum laxum
• Clematis montana var. ‘Album’ p.321
rubens p.319 • Tropaeolum
Hedera helix ‘Oro di Bogliasco’ Hedera helix ‘Parsley Crested’ • Clematis ‘The speciosum p.321
This striking ivy, also known as ‘Goldheart’, has dark, glossy As its name suggests, this ivy has dark green leaves with President’ p.319 • Wisteria floribunda
evergreen leaves with a gold central splash. A self-clinging waved and crested margins. A vigorous, evergreen self- • Jasminum officinale ‘Multijuga’ p.321
climber, it makes an excellent wall ivy, slow to establish but clinging climber with thick upright stems, it is hardy, easy ‘Argenteovariegatum’
then fast-growing. Unlike most variegated ivies, it will to grow, and ideal for garden walls and fences, although its
p.320
tolerate shade. aerial roots may damage old brickwork.
H25 ft (8 m) OOORSUV H6 ft (2 m) OORUV
320/321 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Climbers

Humulus lupulus ‘Aureus’ Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris Jasminum officinale ‘Argenteovariegatum’
Hops make a good choice for shady walls and fences, although The climbing hydrangea is vigorous and produces large, open Strong-growing and semievergreen, climbing jasmine has
H. lupulus ‘Aureus’ produces its best leaf color in sun. This lacecap heads of creamy-white flowers in summer, on a pretty, ferny foliage and bears clusters of strongly scented,
strong-growing, herbaceous perennial climber has yellow- background of broad, rounded leaves. The stems have rich white star-shaped flowers in summer. The variegated cultivar
green, boldly lobed leaves and hairy, twining stems; spikes brown peeling bark. Young plants need support until they are ‘Argenteovariegatum’ has finely divided, gray-green leaves
of female flowers (hops) appear in late summer. established; they then climb by self-clinging aerial roots. with cream margins.
H20 ft (6 m) OOORSUV H50 ft (15m) OOORSUV H40 ft (12 m) OORSU

Lonicera periclymenum Serotina Group Parthenocissus henryana Parthenocissus tricuspidata ‘Veitchii’

A twining, vigorous climber, the late Dutch honeysuckle can be This deciduous ornamental vine, sometimes known as the Also known as Boston ivy, P. tricuspidata is vigorous and
grown alone or through a small tree or shrub. The spring foliage Chinese Virginia creeper, clings to surfaces by the adhesive woody, and will clothe a wall or other support quite quickly,
is lush and new shoots are purple when young. In summer, it tips of its tendrils, making it a useful climber for growing on clinging without assistance. The cultivar ‘Veitchii’ is noted for
produces long-tubed fragrant creamy white flowers streaked a wall. It produces the best color in partial shade, its silver- its fall color, when the mid-green ivy-like leaves turn a deep
with dark red-purple. veined leaves turning a rich red in fall before they drop. red-purple before falling.
H22 ft (7 m) OOORSU H30 ft (10 m) OOORSUV H70 ft (20 m) OOORU

Passiflora caerulea Rosa ‘Compassion’ Rosa ‘Félicité Perpétue’

A good climber for a sunny, warm wall or fence, the blue A hybrid tea rose, ‘Compassion’ is an upright, freely branching This rambler is a semievergreen rose with long, slender stems
passion flower is fast-growing, with rich green divided leaves. climber with dark green leaves. The flowers are rounded and and dark green leaves. The summer flowers are fully double,
The striking flowers are usually white, with purple, blue, and fully double, salmon pink tinged with apricot, and fragrant. pale pink in bud, and opening to faintly pink-tinged white. It is a
white coronas. The orange-yellow fruits that follow are They appear from summer to fall; deadheading will prolong the beautiful rose for an arch or arbor, or it can be grown through a
decorative, but not edible. flowering season. It is a good choice for a wall. shrub or small tree.
H30 ft (10 m) plus OORUV H10 ft (3 m) OOORUV Hto 15 ft (5 m) OOORUV
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Rosa ‘Golden Showers’ Schizophragma integrifolium Solanum crispum ‘Glasnevin’

Cupped, double to semidouble, lightly fragrant yellow flowers Schizophragmas are slow-growing and mainly cultivated for Vigorous and scrambling, S. crispum is a good choice for a
are borne on this upright climbing rose from summer to fall, their hydrangea-like blooms—flattened heads of creamy- warm, sunny wall or fence. The cultivar ‘Glasnevin’ produces
providing a long-lasting display against the glossy leaves. white flowers with conspicuous, oval cream-colored bracts, sprays of long-lasting, deep purple-blue, star-shaped flowers
‘Golden Showers’ will tolerate shady conditions, and works which appear in summer among the pointed green leaves. from summer to fall, and is evergreen in warmer areas.
well with blue- and purple-flowered clematis. The plant will attach itself to a wall surface by aerial roots. It is ideal for training through a shrub or small tree.
Hto 10 ft (3 m) OOORSUV H40 ft (12 m) OORSU H20 ft (6 m) OORSUV

Solanum laxum ‘Album’ Tropaeolum speciosum Vitis coignetiae

Known as the potato vine, S. laxum is a scrambling The flame nasturtium has fleshy, twining stems and long- This ornamental vine is grown for its decorative foliage and
semievergreen or evergreen climber which produces stalked divided leaves, and is an excellent plant to train into vivid fall color. It is a vigorous, deciduous climber with large,
clusters of lightly fragrant flowers over a long season from trees, shrubs, or hedges, where its brilliant color will contrast heart-shaped leaves, brown-felted beneath, that turn bright
summer to fall. The cultivar ‘Album’ is a white-flowered with the green foliage. Long-spurred scarlet flowers appear red in fall. Small, inedible, blue-black grapes appear at the
form of the normally blue-flowered plant. from summer into fall, followed by spherical blue fruits. same time. Train into a tree or shrub, or over a pergola.
H20 ft (6 m) ORUV Hto 10 ft (3 m) or more OORSV H50 ft (15 m) OOORSU

CLIMBERS FOR FOLIAGE INTEREST

AND COLOR
• Actinidia kolomikta p.318 • Parthenocissus tricuspidata
• Akebia quinata p.318 ‘Veitchii’ p.320
• Ampelopsis • Tropaeolum
brevipedunculata p.318 speciosum p.321
• Hedera colchica ‘Sulphur • Vitis coignetiae
Heart’ p.319 p.321
• Hedera helix • Vitis vinifera
‘Oro di Bogliasco’ ‘Purpurea’ p.321
p.319
• Hedera helix ‘Parsley
Crested’ p.319
Vitis vinifera ‘Purpurea’ Wisteria floribunda ‘Multijuga’ • Humulus lupulus
An ideal climber for a warm, sunny wall or fence, the claret Showy, pendent spikes of pea-like early summer flowers ‘Aureus’ p.320
vine is a vigorous form of the grape vine, but is grown for its make wisterias popular with garden designers. W. floribunda • Hydrangea anomala
fall foliage rather than the inedible grapes. It is a woody (Japanese wisteria) is a vigorous, twining climber with pretty subsp. petiolaris p.320
deciduous vine with toothed leaves which are gray at first, leaves, available as a range of cultivars: ‘Multijuga’ bears
• Parthenocissus henryana
then mid-purple, turning a very deep purple in fall. fragrant, lilac-blue blooms; ‘Alba’ has white flowers.
p.320
H22 ft (7 m) OOORSUV H28 ft (9 m) plus OOORSUV
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PLANT GUIDE

Tall perennials

Acanthus spinosus Aconitum ‘Spark’s Variety’ Agastache foeniculum

From late spring through to midsummer, majestic spikes of Upright stems bearing deep violet, hooded flowers, well above With its liquorice-scented leaves and spikes of violet-blue
white flowers sheltered by purple bracts rise from a bed the dark green, deeply divided leaves, identify this as one of flowers from midsummer to early fall, anise hyssop suits a
of prickly, dark green leaves. This clump-forming perennial the monkshoods. The flowers appear from mid- to late summer mixed border. For paler-colored flowers, try the cultivar
prefers rich soil and makes a striking architectural plant. and perform best in moist, fertile soil, in a woodland garden or ‘Alabaster’, which has delicate white blooms. Both prefer
Cut stems last well in flower arrangements. border. Taller plants may need staking. All parts are poisonous. a sunny site, thriving in rich, fertile soil.
H5 ft (1.5 m) S24–36 in (60–90 cm) OOOrSU H4–5 ft (1.2–1.5 m) S18 in (45 cm) OOOSV H3–5 ft (90–150 cm) S12 in (30 cm) OOrU

Anemone x hybrida Asphodeline lutea Cephalaria gigantea

The Japanese anemone bears semidouble, pink flowers on The yellow asphodel strikes a dominant pose in the border as The giant scabious needs a sizeable border for the best display
wiry stems from late summer to midfall. The white-flowered its rocket-like spikes of star-shaped flowers stand above other of its tall flower stems bearing pale yellow, ruffled blooms in
‘Honorine Jobert’ will shine in any border and like the other late-spring perennials. Eye-catching blue-green leaves stud the summer. Make the most of them by planting at the back of a
Japanese anemones, prefers rich soil. It dislikes cold, wet length of each flower stem. Most well-drained soils will suit border against a dark background, such as a conifer hedge or
conditions during winter months. this clump-forming perennial. fence, for contrast.
H4–5 ft (1.2–1.5 m) Sindefinite OOOrSV H5 ft (1.5 m) S12 in (30 cm) OOOrU Hto 8 ft (2.5 m) S24 in (60 cm) OOOrSUV

Cirsium rivulare ‘Atropurpureum’ Crambe cordifolia Cynara cardunculus

The deep crimson flowers of this clump-forming perennial, Looking like a mass of confetti, the tiny white flowers of this Few plants produce such large flowerheads as the cardoon.
coupled with its prickly green leaves, should make thistles perennial appear suspended in mid-air. The coarseness of the Fierce-looking bracts sit below brush-like flowerheads of
more popular border plants than they are. Suited to damp rich green leaves is softened by a cloud of blooms from late blue-purple florets to create a dazzling summer and early fall
conditions in a wild garden, they attract insects during the spring to midsummer. Crambes are suited to a wild garden display. Protect plants from strong winds and in cold areas,
flowering season from early to midsummer. and will tolerate coastal conditions. The flowers attract bees. mulch around the plant base.
H4 ft (1.2 m) S24 in (60 cm) OOOrUV Hto 8 ft (2.5 m) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOOrU H5 ft (1.5 m) S4 ft (1.2 m) OOOrU
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Delphinium Blue Fountains Group Delphinium Pacific Hybrids Dierama pulcherrimum

This hardy delphinium is the ideal choice for a windy garden A cottage garden favorite, this tall perennial comes in a The delightful name of angel’s fishing rod perfectly suits this
as the plant is compact; the flowers grow to just 32 in (80 cm) range of colors, including blue, pink, white, and violet. After elegant perennial whose pendent, pink bells move gracefully in
high and do not need staking. Early summer blooms appear in the midsummer flowering, cut back the stems to encourage the slightest breeze against narrow, grass-like, green leaves.
short spikes in a variety of shades of blue, mauve-blue, and another flush of double flowers in late summer and early fall. This combination looks good in the middle of a border or as
white. Suited to a cottage garden or mixed border. Protect from strong winds. edging alongside a pathway.
H32–39 in (80–100 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOOrU H4–6½ ft (1.2–2 m) S36 in (90 cm) OOOrU H3–5 ft (1–1.5 m) S24 in (60 cm) OOrU

Dryopteris wallichiana Echinops bannaticus Ensete ventricosum

Wallich’s wood fern, named after the Danish plant collector, The globe thistle is a good plant for a wild garden; it is very This monster-sized plant brings a touch of the exotic to a
Nathaniel Wallich, is a deciduous fern that sports a shuttlecock- attractive to bees, with its spherical, blue flowerheads held garden. The Abyssinian banana has large, paddle-like, bright
like array of young, green fronds with rusty-brown, furry above a spiny mass of gray-green leaves from mid- to late green leaves with bright red midribs below. White flowers are
midribs, in spring. Provide shelter, shade and a generous summer. The dense clumps can be divided from fall to spring. borne in summer. Provide winter protection against frost.
depth of rich, moist soil. The variety ‘Taplow Blue’ has powder-blue flowers. H20 ft (6 m) or more Sto 15 ft (5 m)
H36 in (90 cm) or more S30 in (75 cm) OOOSV H1½–4 ft (0.5–1.2 m) S30 in (75 cm) OOOrU £ (min 45°F/7°C) rSV

PERENNIALS FOR
ARCHITECTURAL INTEREST
• Acanthus spinosus p.322 • Musa basjoo p.324
• Asplenium scolopendrium • Phormium cookianum
Crispum Group p.326 subsp. hookeri
• Astelia chathamica p.326 ‘Tricolor’ p.333
• Athyrium filix-femina • Phormium tenax
p.327 Purpureum Group
• Cynara cardunculus p.322 p.324
• Dryopteris wallichiana • Sisyrinchium striatum
p.323 ‘Aunt May’ p.333
• Echinops bannaticus p.323
• Ensete ventricosum p.323
Eryngium agavifolium Foeniculum vulgare ‘Purpureum’ • Eryngium agavifolium
An Argentinian plant, sea holly makes a dramatic silhouette in This attractive perennial is well known for its liquorice-flavored p.323
a border. Long, sword-shaped leaves, sharply toothed along seeds and feathery mid-green leaves, which are used in cooking. • Euphorbia x martinii p.329
their length, form rosettes from which the flowering stems Flat flowerheads of small yellow flowers appear from mid- to • Foeniculum vulgare
emerge. The stalkless, greenish-white flowers form cone-like late summer. ‘Purpureum’ is hardier than the species and has
‘Purpureum’ p.323
stuctures. Stems can be dried for flower arrangements. striking bronze-purple foliage.
• Melianthus major p.324
H3–5 ft (1–1.5 m) S24 in (60 cm) OOrUV H6 ft (1.8 m) S18 in (45 cm) OOOrU
324/325 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Tall perennials

Helianthus ‘Lemon Queen’ Helianthus ‘Monarch’ Inula magnifica

Sunflowers are always a good choice for the back of a border The almost spidery blooms of this sunflower make it stand This fast-growing, clump-forming plant needs plenty of space
and this variety is no exception. Pale yellow flowers with a out from the usual crowd. Predominantly yellow with a pale in the garden. Large, frilly-petaled flowers are formed, up to 20
slightly darker eye mark this out as one of the more subtly brown eye, the semidouble flowers appear from early to midfall. at a time, in late summer above a foil of dark green leaves with
colored choices. Expect a long-lasting display from late Long, hot summer months will promote a beautiful flowering softly hairy undersides. Ideal for a wild garden, the plant likes
summer to midfall. display. sun but will tolerate damp soil.
H5½ ft (1.7m) S4 ft (1.2 m) OOOrUV Hto 6 ft (2 m) S4 ft (1.2 m) OOrUV Hto 6 ft (1.8 m) S3 ft (1 m) OOOrUVW

Leucanthemella serotina Leucanthemum x superbum ‘Wirral Supreme’ Macleaya microcarpa ‘Kelway’s Coral Plume’
This large-flowered daisy makes excellent cutting material, One of the Shasta daisies, ‘Wirral Supreme’ boasts fully double This pink-flowered plume poppy is at its peak in early and
lasting well in the vase. It is a vigorous plant, with stout flowerheads of white petals with pale yellow eyes. These are midsummer, when large, open floral sprays sit above a sea
stems that should not need staking, and prefers a moist formed from early summer until early fall, providing a long- of gray-green leaves. A tall, showy plant, it is best sited on its
situation with full sun or partial shade. It is useful for lasting display. A strong growing plant, it needs moderately own, forming an eye-catching screen, or at the back of a large
illuminating darker areas of the yard. fertile soil and sunshine to perform well. mixed border. Macleayas can be invasive.
Hto 5 ft (1.5 m) S36 in (90 cm) OOOrSVW Hto 36 in (90 cm) S30 in (75 cm) OOOrSUV Hto 7 ft (2.2 m) S3 ft (1 m) or more OOOrUV

Melianthus major Musa basjoo Phormium tenax Purpureum Group

Grown more for its gray-green, tooth-edged leaves than its The Japanese banana can grow to 15 ft (5 m) and even flower Long, fibrous, sword-shaped leaves burst forth from the base
flowers, the honey bush is tolerant of sea air and is a good and produce fruit (unpalatable, however) in cooler climates. It of the New Zealand flax. The red-purple foliage contrasts well
choice for coastal gardens. Use as an architectural focus or is ideal as a specimen plant, or can be used as the centerpiece with paler phormiums or grasses. Alternatively, use it on its
place it in strategic positions around the garden where its of a tropical display. Strong winds can shred the leaves, so try own to dominate a border. The plant Iikes fertile soil in full sun;
angular features can be admired. It is not frost hardy. to provide some protection. mulch the base in winter in frost-prone areas.
H6–10 ft (2–3 m) S3–10 ft (1–3 m) OrUV Hto 15 ft (5 m) Sto 12 ft (4 m) OOrV H8–9 ft (2.5–2.8 m) S3 ft (1 m) OOrUV
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Romneya coulteri ‘White Cloud’ Salvia uliginosa Symphyotrichum ‘Ochtendgloren’

This plant will eventually become a woody perennial once Native to South America, the bog sage comes into its own The long-lasting, purple-pink, daisy-like flowers of this aster
it becomes established. Large white petals with a bobble of from late summer to midfall, when square stems bearing are held on branching stems in late summer. It is a strong-
yellow stamens in the center create a winning display. Protect clear blue flowers emerge above mid-green, toothed leaves. growing plant, producing neat clumps that do not need to be
plants from cold, strong winds, and in frost-prone areas, choose As the name suggests, bog sage is a moisture-loving plant. regularly divided. It brightens up borders, can be grown in
a site against a warm wall. It is tall and suited to the back of a sunny border. containers, and is also good for cutting.
H3–8 ft (1–2.5 m) Sindefinite OOrU Hto 6 ft (2 m) S36 in (90 cm) OOrV H4 ft (1.2 m) S32 in (80 cm) OOOrU

Thalictrum flavum subsp. glaucum Valeriana phu ‘Aurea’ Verbascum ‘Cotswold Queen’
The yellow meadow rue is a clump-forming perennial that The leaves of this plant are soft yellow when young, turning Synonymous with cottage gardens, this semievergreen
spreads by means of underground stems or rhizomes. Its green to lime green by summer. The leaves at the base of the perennial will brighten any summer border with its prominent
blue-green foliage is offset by the pale sulfur-yellow flowers stem are scented. Small white flowers appear in early summer spikes of yellow, saucer-shaped flowers. In a garden exposed
formed in summer. The variety ‘Illuminator’ is taller than the to complete the display. A woodland plant in the wild, valerian to the elements, this tall plant will probably need staking.
subspecies and has bright green leaves. suits a cottage garden or any informal garden plan. Many Verbascum species are short-lived.
Hto 3 ft (1 m) S24 in (60 cm) OOOSV Hto 5 ft (1.5 m) S24 in (60 cm) OOOrSV H4 ft (1.2 m) S12 in (30 cm) OOOrU

PERENNIALS FOR
ATTRACTING WILDLIFE
• Aquilegia vulgaris ‘William • Geranium macrorrhizum
Guiness’ p.326 p.329
• Centaurea dealbata • Geranium ‘Nimbus’ p.329
‘Steenbergii’ p.327 • Geranium phaeum p.329
• Cirsium rivulare • Helenium ‘Moerheim
‘Atropurpureum’ Beauty’ p.329
p.322 • Knautia macedonica p.330
• Crambe cordifolia p.322 • Monarda ‘Squaw’ p.331
• Digitalis x mertonensis • Nepeta grandiflora ‘Dawn
p.328 to Dusk’ p.331
• Doronicum ‘Little Leo’ • Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’
Verbena bonariensis Veronicastrum virginicum p.335 p.331
A popular plant, this verbena comes into its own when grown From summer to fall, the dainty flower spikes of this • Echinacea ‘Art’s Pride’ • Pulmonaria ‘Diana Clare’
with grasses, allowing its branched flowerheads to punctuate perennial bring white, pink, and purple shades to border p.328 p.337
a border display. It can be grown at the back of beds, but its plantings. For a pure white-flowered variety, look for • Echinops bannaticus p.323
slim stems also look striking at the front. It flowers from V. virginicum ‘Album’ and grow it with dark foliage plants
• Geranium ‘Brookside’
midsummer to early fall. to bring out its best attributes.
p.328
Hto 6 ft (2 m) S18 in (45 cm) OOrUV Hto 6 ft (2 m) S18 in (45 cm) OOOrSV
326/327 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Medium-sized perennials

Achillea ‘Lachsschönheit’ Achillea ‘Taygetea’ Agapanthus Headbourne Hybrids

Feathery foliage and large, flat heads of salmon-pink flowers Large, creamy-yellow flowerheads appear in summer and These plants were first raised by the Hon. Lewis Palmer in his
(the plant is also seen labeled ‘Salmon Beauty’) make this fall, providing perfect landing pads for summer-visiting insects Hampshire, England garden, using South African seed. The
clump-forming perennial a good choice to grow with wild looking for a source of nectar. Finely-cut, grayish-green leaves resulting hybrids have larger flowers than most African lilies,
flowers or in a mixed border. It is one of the Galaxy Hybrids appear along the length of the stems, acting as a contrasting and are hardier. Grow in a mixed border or in pots.
series, which offers a wide range of colors. foil to the flowers. H24–36 in (60–90 cm) S36 in (90 cm) OO/OOO
H30–36 in (75–90 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOOrUV H24 in (60 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOOrUV rUV

Anaphalis triplinervis Aquilegia vulgaris ‘William Guiness’ Artemisia ludoviciana ‘Silver Queen’
These are easy garden plants to grow and are very effective There are many granny’s bonnets to choose from, but the Grown predominantly for its downy silver leaves, this artemisia
in a border where the emphasis is on white and silver. The exquisite colors of ‘William Guiness’ (here shown against a is good for contrast in a mixed border or as an element in a
clusters of flowers, borne from mid- to late summer, have background of hosta leaves) make it a popular choice. Tall white and silver garden plan. Brownish-yellow flowerheads
papery white bracts, and make good cut flowers. flower stems are carried above divided leaves; the plants are emerge from midsummer to fall. The variety ‘Valerie Finnis’
H32–36 in (80–90 cm) S18–24 in (45–60 cm) suited to cottage gardens or mixed borders. has more deeply cut leaf margins.
OOORu H36 in (90 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOOrSUV H30 in (75 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOOrU

Asplenium scolopendrium Crispum Group Astelia chathamica Astrantia ‘Hadspen Blood’

The Hart’s tongue fern is evergreen, with wavy-edged fronds, Dense clumps of arching, silver scaly leaves make this an Astrantias are well-suited to areas of dappled shade in the
making it a year-round decorative asset in the garden. For the attractive plant for a border or container. Pale yellowish-green garden. The cultivar ‘Hadspen Blood’ is clump-forming, with
lushest plants, choose a position in dappled shade with moist, flowers appear on long stalks from mid- to late spring, followed, deeply cut, mid-green leaves and clusters of dark red flowers
rich soil to prevent sun scorching. A mixed woodland border on female plants, by orange berries. Do not allow roots to surrounded by equally dark red bracts. The flowers can be
would be ideal. become over-wet during the winter months. dried for winter flower arrangements.
H12–24 in (30–60 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOOSUV H4 ft (1.2 m) Sto 6 ft (2 m) OOrSV H12–36 in (30–90 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOOrSV
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Astrantia major ‘Sunningdale Variegated’ Athyrium filix-femina Campanula ‘Burghaltii’

This astrantia is remarkable for its leaves, which are unevenly It is clear why the Victorians found ferns so charming when In midsummer, pendent, lavender-colored bells, opening from
margined with soft yellow and cream. Although the pale pink you see the lady fern at its best. Its large, very finely cut fronds, blue-purple buds, dangle from the stems of this mound-forming
flowers are attractive, the foliage is the main feature. Trim back sometimes with red-brown stalks, suit dappled corners of the perennial, against a background of heart-shaped leaves. The
the leaves to encourage new growth and choose a sunny site garden. Shady, sheltered areas or a woodland setting provide plant prefers neutral to alkaline conditions to thrive.
for best variegation. the perfect growing conditions. Alternatively, grow it in a large container.
H12–36 in (30–90 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOOrSV Hto 4 ft (1.2 m) Sto 36 in (90 cm) OOOSV H24 in (60 cm) S12 in (30 cm) OOOrSUV

Campanula glomerata ‘Superba’ Centaurea dealbata ‘Steenbergii’ Clematis integrifolia

The erect stems of this bellflower bear clusters of deep purple, Tolerant of dry conditions, knapweed is a magnet for bees This herbaceous perennial carries flowers on the current year’s
bell-shaped flowers throughout the summer. Prolong the and butterflies. The rich pink flowers with feathery petals shoots, from midsummer to late fall. The mid-blue flowers have
flowering season by cutting plants back to the top of the can be cut for indoor displays when they appear in summer. slightly twisted ‘petals’ and cream anthers, and are followed by
leaves after the first flush of blooms. This variety is vigorous The plant looks attractive in wild parts of the yard, or as silvery seedheads which provide an extended season of
and can even be invasive. part of a cottage garden plan. interest. The plant may need supporting.
H24 in (60 cm) Sindefinite OOOrSUV H24 in (60 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOOrU H24 in (60 cm) S24 in (60 cm)OOOrSU

EARLY-FLOWERING PERENNIALS
• Acanthus spinosus p.322 • Epimedium x perralchicum
• Ajuga reptans p.334 p.335
• Anemone nemorosa • Helleborus argutifolius
‘Bracteata Pleniflora’ p.329
p.334 • Helleborus foetidus p.329
• Bergenia ‘Morgenröte’ • Heuchera ‘Plum Pudding’
p.334 p.336
• Brunnera macrophylla • Lamprocapnos spectabilis
‘Dawson’s White’ p.335 f. alba p.330
• Crambe cordifolia • Phlomis russeliana p.332
p.322 • Pulmonaria ‘Diana Clare’
Clematis tubulosa ’Wyevale’ Digitalis grandiflora • Delphinium Blue p.337
This clematis grows as a freestanding shrub. The late summer The yellow foxglove forms sturdy, imposing clumps of tall Fountains Group p.323 • Rhodanthemum
flowers are pale blue, scented, and are produced in clusters, flower spikes with glossy leaves, and is best sited where it will • Dicentra ‘Bacchanal’ hosmariense p.337
resembling hyacinth blooms. Fluffy, silvery seedheads follow, make an impact. Large, tubular flowers with speckled throats p.335 • Valeriana phu ‘Aurea’
which are also decorative. The plant prefers a chalky soil in radiate outward. Choose dappled shade under trees or a
• Doronicum ‘Little Leo’ p.325
full sun or part shade. sheltered part of the yard for best results.
p.335
H2½–4½ ft (75–130 cm) S3 ft (1 m) OOOrSU Hto 3 ft (1 m) S18 in (45 cm) OOOSV
328/329 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Medium-sized perennials

Digitalis x mertonensis Dryopteris erythrosora Echinacea ‘Art’s Pride’

This cross between the yellow foxglove and common foxglove This slowly spreading fern from China and Japan emerges from The narrow orange petals of this coneflower surround a
has resulted in a free-flowering perennial bearing large pink the soil as coppery-red young fronds. These gradually turn pink prominent, rust-colored, cone-shaped disc which appeals
tubular flowers in late spring and early summer. An excellent and then silvery-green with age, forming a lacy network over to all kinds of insects. Flowers are also slightly scented. Grow
plant for attracting bees. Self-sown seedlings will appear the ground. Keep soil around the roots moist and site in a in a mixed border, or wildlife or cottage garden. With their
around the parent plant. sheltered area. It makes a striking plant for a border. sturdy stems, echinaceas also make good cut flowers.
Hto 36 in (90 cm) S12 in (30 cm) OOOSV H24 in (60 cm) S16 in (40 cm) OOOSV H24–36 in (60–90 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOOrU

Echinacea purpurea ‘Alba’ Eremurus stenophyllus Euphorbia griffithii ‘Dixter’

This is the white version of the popular, purple-flowered The lovely tapering flower spikes of foxtail lilies emerge and This is a striking herbaceous perennial that contrasts well with
Echinacea purpurea. Large, reflexed, white petals surround a bloom in summer. Staking may be required to prevent the tall other green-leaved euphorbias. Its copper-tinted, dark green
central yellow cone on long flower stems, from midsummer to stems blowing over. Provide a site with free-draining soil, and leaves make an effective background to the orange bracts that
fall. These plants work well with grasses and slim-stemmed mulch around the crowns with garden compost in the fall. surround the inconspicuous true flowers. The best color comes
perennials, such as Verbena bonariensis. Suited to the back of a garden border. from plants grown in dappled shade.
Hto 5 ft (1.5 m) S18 in (45 cm) OOOrU H3 ft (1 m) S24 in (60 cm) OOOrU H30 in (75 cm) S3 ft (1 m) OOOSV

Euphorbia x martinii Euphorbia schillingii Geranium ‘Brookside’

With unusual flowers in a mixture of greens and reds, Pale yellow flowerheads perch above a mass of wiry, leafy This densely growing perennial is ideal for border edges; it
produced on the previous year’s shoots, this euphorbia would stems on this strong-growing herbaceous perennial. Plant it is a vigorous, spreading plant and makes attractive ground
be a welcome addition to any yard. It flowers over a long with other border perennials, choosing colors carefully to bring cover, for sun or part-shade. Abundant violet-blue flowers with
season from spring to midsummer and is a very adaptable out the subtleties of this late summer- to fall-flowering plant. pale centers appear in summer, held above a mass of finely
plant, tolerating sun and shade. Provide rich soil in dappled shade. divided green leaves.
H3 ft (1 m) S3 ft (1 m) OOOrSU H3 ft (1 m) S12 in (30 cm) OOOSV H24 in (60 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOOrSU
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Geranium macrorrhizum Geranium ‘Nimbus’ Geranium phaeum

This plant has strongly aromatic, toothed, sticky leaves that A very vigorous and floriferous geranium that becomes a sea The dusky cranesbill is undemanding in its garden requirements.
turn an attractive red in the fall. Clusters of flat pink flowers of blue when the lavender-blue flowers appear in summer. This It will tolerate sun but is also a useful plant for deep shade.
with protruding stamens are borne in early summer from a plant is very tolerant of shade and is a good choice for darker Dark maroon flowers with white eyes are produced in early
mass of sprawling stems. This is a good plant for ground borders or corners that receive little direct sunlight. Clip to summer. For a brighter-flowered geranium, try G. psilostemon,
cover or underplanting in a shady site. encourage repeat flowering. with its black-centered magenta flowers.
H20 in (50 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOOSU Hto 3 ft (1 m) S18 in (45 cm) OOOSTU H32 in (80 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOORSTU

Gypsophila paniculata ‘Bristol Fairy’ Helenium ‘Moerheim Beauty’ Helleborus argutifolius

Also known as baby’s breath, branching gypsophila creates a Copper-red daisy flowers, each with a distinctive round central The Corsican hellebore is a valuable plant for the designer in
cloud of blossom as a profusion of tiny double-white flowers disc, are borne in early to late summer, filling the garden with search of winter interest. A glossy-leaved perennial, it comes
emerge in midsummer. It looks marvelous in a mixed border warm color. Deadhead through the season to encourage into flower in late winter and early spring, and the blooms are
and also provides good cut flowers. ‘Bristol Fairy’ has double repeat flowering. The plant’s striking color and form mix well an unexpected pale green. It grows well in most conditions but
white flowers but may be shorter-lived than G. paniculata. with either hot colors or pastel shades. will not thrive in acid soils.
H4 ft (1.2 m) S4 ft (1.2 m) OOOrU H36 in (90 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOOrUV Hto 4 ft (1.2 m) S36 in (90 cm) OOOrSV

LATE-FLOWERING PERENNIALS
• Agastache foeniculum • Phlox paniculata
p.322 ‘Balmoral’ p.332
• Anemone x hybrida • Rudbeckia fulgida var.
p.322 sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’
• Aster amellus p.333
‘Veilchenkönigin’ p.334 • Rudbeckia laciniata
• Cynara cardunculus p.322 ‘Goldquelle’ p.333
• Delphinium Pacific • Salvia nemorosa p.337
Hybrids p.323 • Salvia uliginosa p.325
• Helianthus ‘Lemon • Symphyotrichum ericoides
Queen’ p.324 ‘White Heather’ p.333
Helleborus foetidus Hemerocallis ‘Buzz Bomb’ • Helianthus ‘Monarch’ • Symphyotrichum
The stinking hellebore is named for the unpleasant smell its Originally bred in 1961, this brightly colored daylily is a strong p.324 novae-angliae ‘Andenken
leaves give off when crushed. However, the greenish-white grower, flowering in midsummer. The large, orange-red blooms • Kniphofia ‘Percy’s Pride’ an Alma Pötschke’ p.333
flowers the plant bears in midwinter and early spring make up with yellow throats are carried above strap-like green leaves p.331 • Symphyotrichum
for this downside. Other good varieties to choose from include over a long season. Grow in a mixed or herbaceous border in
• Liatris spicata ‘Kobold’ ‘Ochtendgloren’ p.325
the Wester Flisk Group, with red-tinted main stems. full sun for maximum effect.
p.331 • Verbena bonariensis p.325
Hto 32 in (80 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOOrSV H24 in (60 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOOrUV
330/331 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Medium-sized perennials

Hemerocallis ‘Marion Vaughn’ Hosta ‘Francee’ Hosta ‘Royal Standard’

A late afternoon-flowering daylily, ‘Marion Vaughn’ is a Hostas are shade-loving foliage plants and versatile in the This clump-forming perennial does well in shade but will
dependable evergreen with clear lemon-yellow flowers and garden, suited to ground cover, containers, a woodland garden, also tolerate some sun. Its unmarked pale green leaves
bright green strap-like foliage, making a crisp addition to a or mixed border. Olive-green heart-shaped leaves with a have prominent ribs and provide an excellent foil for the
mixed border. It looks good growing in a drift with other variable white margin make ‘Francee’ a popular choice. funnel-shaped, fragrant white flowers that appear in late
daylilies. Full sun will promote best flowering. Lavender-blue flowers emerge in summer. summer. It is fast-growing and vigorous.
H34 in (85 cm) S30 in (75 cm) OOOrUV H22–28 in (55–70 cm) S3 ft (1 m) OOOSUV H24 in (60 cm) S4 ft (1.2 m) OOOSUV

Hosta sieboldiana var. elegans Knautia macedonica Kniphofia ‘Bees’ Sunset’

With its heavily puckered, blue-green leaves, this large hosta Similar to a scabious, this knautia carries purple-red pincushion This is a yellow-orange variety of the deciduous plant familiarly
makes a dramatic border plant. It tolerates shade although a flowerheads, held above the foliage on branching stems, from known as the red hot poker. Upright, fleshy stems support a
very dark position will subdue the production of lilac-colored mid- to late summer. It is attractive to bees and butterflies and bottlebrush-like array of the downward-pointing, tubular
flowers in early summer. Place a group of hostas together for ideally suited to a wildflower or cottage garden. It is fairly flowers from early to late summer. Grow in the herbaceous
a stunning foliage effect. drought-tolerant. border in groups for a dramatic display.
H3 ft (1 m) S4 ft (1.2 m) OOOSUV H24–32 in (60–80 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOORu H36 in (90 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOORSUV

Kniphofia ‘Percy’s Pride’ Lamprocapnos spectabilis f. alba Liatris spicata ‘Kobold’

This cultivar of the red hot poker produces long spikes of When in flower, the graceful, arching stems of the bleeding The spikes of deep purple flowerheads on this plant are unusual
greenish-yellow flowers, maturing to cream, which emerge heart (or Dutchman’s breeches) look like a miniature washing in that the flowers open from the top downward. ‘Kobold’
in late summer and early fall on long, fleshy stems. The unusual line. New shoots appear in spring with rose-pink or white flowers from late summer to early fall and suits a mixed border,
flower color makes it suitable for a color-themed border using flowers. ‘Alba’ is a less vigorous selection with pure white but needs regular moisture to thrive. Stems can be cut for a
white, green, and pale yellow. blooms. It will tolerate some sun if the roots are kept moist. cheerful indoor display.
Hto 4 ft (1.2 m) S24 in (60 cm) OOORSUV Hto 4 ft (1.2 m) S18 in (45 cm) OOOSV H30 in (70 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOORUV
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Lupinus Band of Nobles Series ‘Chandelier’ Lychnis coronaria Lysimachia ephemerum

If space allows, grow lupins in drifts, allowing complementary Known by the common names of dusty miller and rose Woodland or streamside plants in the wild, these pretty
colors to sit close to one another. The pale yellow, pea-like campion, this short-lived perennial has soft silvery-gray herbaceous perennials are best suited to a damp border, bog
blooms of clump-forming ‘Chandelier’ appear in early and stems and leaves. Late summer sees a long succession of garden, or pond margin. In early and midsummer, erect spikes of
midsummer and are ideal for a mixed or herbaceous border rounded vermilion blooms. It self-seeds freely. For a pure saucer-shaped white flowers rise above mid-green tapered
in a cottage-style or informal garden design. white form, choose ‘Alba’. leaves. Plants may need protection in winter.
H36 in (90 cm) S30 in (75 cm) OOORSU H32 in (80 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOORSU H3 ft (1 m) S12 in (30 cm) OO/OOORSVW

Lythrum salicaria ‘Feuerkerze’ Monarda ‘Squaw’ Nepeta grandiflora ‘Dawn to Dusk’

Masses of tiny star-shaped, intensely red-purple flowers cover Bergamots are grown for their long-lasting, colorful flowers As the name grandiflora suggests, the pale mauve-pink flowers
the slender upright spikes of this purple loosestrife cultivar, which appear from midsummer to early fall. ‘Squaw’ is on this catmint are larger than usual. Grow this cultivar near a
making a beautiful display from midsummer to early fall. The particularly striking, with its bright scarlet flowers held above path or garden seat to make the most of the distinctive
leaves are downy. The plant needs moisture and suits a damp dark bracts. Bergamots attract bees and butterflies and are fragrance released as the leaves are crushed. The plants are
border or bog garden. ideal for a wildflower garden. attractive to bees—and cats.
Hto 36 in (90 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOORV Hto 4 ft (1.2 m) S18 in (45 cm) OOORSUV H26 in (65 cm) S12 in (30 cm) OOORSU

PERENNIALS FOR
FOLIAGE INTEREST
• Adiantum venustum p.334 • Foeniculum vulgare
• Alchemilla mollis p.334 ‘Purpureum’ p.323
• Artemisia ludoviciana • Heuchera ‘Plum Pudding’
‘Silver Queen’ p.326 p.336
• Arum italicum • Hosta ‘Francee’ p.330
subsp. italicum • Hosta sieboldiana var.
‘Marmoratum’ p.334 elegans p.330
• Astelia chathamica p.326 • Lychnis coronaria p.331
• Astrantia ‘Hadspen • Phlox paniculata ‘Norah
Blood’ p.326 Leigh’ p.332
• Athyrium niponicum • Sedum ‘Matrona’ p.333
Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’ Origanum laevigatum ‘Herrenhausen’ var. pictum p.334 • Sedum ‘Vera Jameson’
This is a vigorous perennial bearing masses of lavender-blue Strongly aromatic leaves and bright clusters of pink flowers • Eryngium bourgatii p.337
flowers throughout the summer months. Be prepared for it to characterize this woody perennial, an ornamental cultivar of ‘Oxford Blue’ p.335 • Sempervivum tectorum
take up some space in the border. The leaves are light gray, and the culinary herb marjoram. The leaves are purple-flushed • Euphorbia x martinii p.329 p.337
noticeably aromatic when touched. Clumps can be divided in when young and in winter, and the flowers appear from late
• Euphorbia epithymoides
spring or fall to rejuvenate plants. spring to fall. Suited to a herb garden or border margin.
p.336
H36 in (90 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOORSu H24 in (60 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOORu
332/333 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Medium-sized perennials

Paeonia ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ Papaver Oriental Group ‘Black and White’ Penstemon ‘Alice Hindley’
The powder-pink, showy double flowers of ‘Sarah Bernhardt’
The bold, beautiful flowers of the Oriental poppy make an A favorite with many gardeners, foxglove-like penstemons are
are large by peony standards and come into their own in
immediate impact. There are many cultivars; the large, ruffled reliable and rewarding to grow. Large, tubular bell-like flowers
summer. The individual blooms are heavy and will need
petals of ‘Black and White’, each with a black blotch at the open in succession along upright stems from midsummer to
supporting. They are also good for cutting. base, are papery white and surround a boss of dark stamens. fall. There are many cultivars; the flowers of ‘Alice Hindley’
are pale lilac-blue. Feed well.
H38 in (95 cm) S20–28 in (50–70 cm) OOORSuV H18–36 in (45–90 cm) S24–36 in (60–90 cm)
OOOru H36 in (90 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOrSU

Penstemon ‘Andenken an Friedrich Hahn’ Persicaria amplexicaulis ‘Firetail’ Persicaria bistorta ‘Superba’
This hardy, vigorous, bushy penstemon carries elegant This semievergreen perennial is a robust, undemanding garden A long-flowering, semievergreen plant with rounded spikes
spikes of bright garnet-red flowers in profusion from plant. From midsummer to early fall, the lush green foliage is of soft pink, miniature blooms, which present a good show all
midsummer through to midfall, above masses of joined by tall, rigid stems bearing small, bright red bottlebrush summer and well into the fall. Grow behind ‘Firetail’ (left) for
narrow green leaves. Deadheading will significantly flowers. Grow as border plants, as ground cover, or naturalize in interesting contrast. Divide particularly vigorous clumps in
prolong the flowering display. a woodland garden. spring or summer to control their size and spread.
H30 in (75 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OO/OOOrSu Hto 4 ft (1.2 m) Sto 4 ft (1.2 m) OOORSV Hto 36 in (90 cm) S36 in (90 cm) OOORSUV

Phlomis russeliana Phlox paniculata ‘Balmoral’ Phlox paniculata ‘Norah Leigh’

This sage-like plant looks very effective grown in a large Sweetly scented perennial phlox is a staple of the traditional Variegated forms of phlox are a relatively new phenomenon.
group in a border. The pale yellow, hooded flowers begin cottage garden, grown for its late summer and early fall The tapering leaves of ‘Norah Leigh’ have green midribs but are
to appear in late spring and continue until the fall, with flowers. This vigorous, herbaceous cultivar has large trusses mainly creamy-white with splashes of green. Clusters of pale
the best show of color in early summer. The cut stems are of pale pink, flattened flowers, and is a good choice for a mixed lilac flowers with deeper pink centers are borne from summer to
good for dried arrangements. border. It does best in rich soil. fall over a long season.
Hto 36 in (90 cm) S30 in (75 cm) OOOrsU H36 in (90 cm) S24–39 in (60–100 cm) OOORSV Hto 36 in (90 cm) S24–39 in (60–100 cm) OOORV
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Phormium cookianum subsp. hookeri ‘Tricolor’ Potentilla atrosanguinea Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’
The mountain flax from New Zealand comes in a number of These pretty plants have attractive leaves with silver-haired Coneflowers are popular late-season plants, producing
forms. Here, the narrow, arching, strap-like leaves are green undersides, but are mainly grown for their bright, saucer- quantities of yellow flowerheads with dark eyes, held on
with cream and red margins. Yellow-green flowers emerge in shaped flowers, which vary from yellow through to rich red bristly stems, from late summer to midfall. The rich green
summer on long, stiff stems, although it is for the foliage that and bloom over a long season from spring to fall. The plants leaves are tapering and toothed. Pair ‘Goldsturm’ with
the plant is grown. Ideal for a coastal garden. thrive in a cool but bright position. Verbena bonariensis and grasses for a dramatic display.
H4 ft (1.2 m) S10 ft (3 m) OORSV H18–36 in (45–90 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOOrU Hto 24 in (60 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOORSU

Rudbeckia laciniata ‘Goldquelle’ Sedum ‘Matrona’ Sisyrinchium striatum ‘Aunt May’

The deeply cut green leaves make an effective background for Fleshy leaves, initially green and later flushed purple, and dark Excellent front-of-the-border plants, sisyrinchiums also suit
this double-flowered, lemon-yellow coneflower. ‘Goldquelle’ red stems form the backdrop to the flattened heads of tiny a gravel garden. Less vigorous than the green-leaved species,
makes a fine addition to the late summer border and will pink star-like flowers in late summer. The dried flowerheads the cultivar ‘Aunt May’ has cream-edged, gray-green, narrow
continue flowering until the middle of the fall. Rudbeckias add structure and interest to the winter garden. leaves. In summer, the stiff flower stems are studded with small
and grasses make a happy combination in a large border. H24–30 in (60–75 cm) Sto 12–18 in (30–45 cm) pale yellow flowers.
Hto 36 in (90 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOORSU OOOru H20 in (50 cm) S10 in (25 cm) OOOrU

PERENNIALS FOR DAMP SOIL

CONDITIONS
• Aconitum ‘Spark’s • Helleborus x hybridus
Variety’ p.322 ‘Pluto’ p.336
• Adiantum venustum p.334 • Inula magnifica p.324
• Alchemilla mollis p.334 • Pachysandra terminalis
• Astelia chathamica p.326 p.336
• Astrantia ‘Hadspen • Persicaria bistorta
Blood’ p.326 ‘Superba’ p.332
• Athyrium filix-femina • Pulmonaria ‘Diana Clare’
p.327 p.337
• Dicentra ‘Bacchanal’ • Salvia uliginosa p.325
p.335 • Symphyotrichum
Symphyotrichum ericoides ‘White Heather’ Symphyotrichum novae-angliae ‘Andenken an • Dryopteris wallichiana novae-angliae ‘Andenken
A reliable and easy-to-grow perennial, ‘White Heather’ Alma Pötschke’ p.323 an Alma Pötschke’ p.333
produces sprays of small daisy blooms at the end of summer, These Michaelmas daisies bear rich cerise-pink blooms in • Ensete ventricosum p.323 • Valeriana phu ‘Aurea’ p.325
prolonging the season of interest in the garden. A sunny site profusion from late summer to midfall. Mix varieties • Helleborus argutifolius • Veronicastrum virginicum
will ensure an extended spell of flowering. To increase the together to create your own aster display or plant among p.329 p.325
stock, divide larger plants in spring. other perennials for late summer color.
H3 ft (1 m) S12 in (30 cm) OOOrU H4 ft (1.2 m) S24 in (60 cm) OOOrSV
334/335 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Small perennials

Adiantum venustum Ajuga reptans Alchemilla mollis

The evergreen Himalayan maidenhair fern is a decorative Spikes of deep blue flowers emerge from the low-growing, Dependable and drought-tolerant, lady’s mantle is grown for its
plant for a shady wall crevice or a damp, shady corner. It dark green leaves of this evergreen perennial from late pretty foliage and frothy sprays of tiny greenish-yellow flowers,
looks delicate but is in fact surprisingly robust. Old growth spring to early summer. The plant spreads rapidly and makes which appear from early summer to fall and are good for
should be removed in late winter before new pink croziers excellent ground cover. For a less invasive form try ‘Catlin’s cutting. Deadhead after flowering to prevent self-seeding.
unfurl in spring, developing into fresh green fronds. Giant’, which has large bronze-purple leaves. Plant it at the front of a border or in a gravel garden.
H6 in (15 cm) Sindefinite OOOSV H6 in (15 cm) S24–36 in (60–90 cm) plus OOOSV Hto 24 in (60 cm) S30 in (75 cm) OOORSV

Anemone nemorosa ‘Bracteata Pleniflora’ Anthemis punctata subsp. cupaniana Arum italicum subsp. italicum ‘Marmoratum’
A striking variant of the more common wood anemone, this This Sicilian daisy naturally prefers a sunny site, such as an A truly exotic-looking plant whether in leaf, flower, or fruit,
creeping perennial bears semidouble white flowers, held over open, well-drained rock garden. Flowers are long-lasting and lords and ladies is excellent for filling in gaps in border displays.
a ruff of closely packed green leaves, from spring to early bloom over a long season from late spring to late summer. The glossy green leaves are veined with white, while the pale
summer. The plant thrives in rich soil. Dappled shade will bring The plant forms a tight mat at ground level and in winter the cream spathes give way to stalks of bright orange berries. It’s
out its best features. silvery-gray leaves turn gray-green. at its best in a sheltered site.
H3–6 in (8–15 cm) S12 in (30 cm) plus OOSUV H12 in (30 cm) S36 in (90 cm) OORu H12 in (30 cm) S6 in (15 cm) OOORSU

Aster amellus ‘Veilchenkönigin’ Athyrium niponicum var. pictum Bergenia ‘Morgenröte’

A clump-forming perennial, this aster produces a mass of These graceful, deciduous ferns (also known as lady ferns) Known by many as elephant’s ears because of the large,
tiny, violet-purple, daisy-like flowers in late summer, which are easy to grow and will thrive in a shady, sheltered border rounded, leathery green leaves, bergenias are robust,
are attractive to butterflies. The mid-green leaves are narrow or woodland garden, as long as there is sufficient moisture. clump-forming evergreen plants. ‘Morgenröte’ produces
and slightly hairy. Divide plants in spring and replant the The arching fronds are light green or grayish, sometimes clusters of bright reddish-pink flowers at the top of strong
strongest sections for most vigorous regrowth. flushed purple, with a purple midrib. purple stems from mid- to late spring.
H12–24 in (30–60 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOORU Hto 12 in (30 cm) Sindefinite OOOStV H18 in (40 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOOrSuV
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Brunnera macrophylla ‘Dawson’s White’ Calamintha grandiflora ‘Variegata’ Coreopsis verticillata ‘Moonbeam’
This relative of borage is a good choice for a woodland garden. A plant for the woodland garden or a cool, sheltered position, A row of this brightly colored plant will make a fine edging for a
The heart-shaped leaves, carried on stiff stalks, have irregular, this calamint has toothed, pale green leaves, speckled border. Finely cut leaves mingle together with a profusion of
creamy-white edges. In mid- and late spring, sprays of small creamy-white, which are aromatic when crushed. From yellow, star-like flowers that punctuate the surface in early
blue flowers are borne above the foliage. Choose a cool, partly summer to fall, pink-mauve, two-lipped flowers emerge summer. A sunny position will promote the best show of
shaded site in rich soil. above and level with the topmost leaves. blooms. Deadhead to encourage flowering.
H18 in (45 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOOSuV H12 in (30 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOOSUV Hto 20 in (50 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOORSU

Dianthus ‘Bovey Belle’ Dicentra ‘Bacchanal’ Doronicum ‘Little Leo’

This hardy pink bears clove-scented, bright pink double Layer upon layer of deeply divided, gray-green leaves make an A spring-flowering perennial, this bright daisy is as attractive
blooms on long stems above silver-gray strappy foliage in effective foil for the delicate, crimson, heart-shaped flowers, to wildlife as it is to gardeners. Bees, butterflies, and hoverflies
summer, making an impact in a mixed border or raised bed. dangling from arching stems, which appear from mid- to late are regular visitors to the large yellow blooms. Plant in small
Deadhead regularly to promote further flowering. Pinks spring. ‘Bacchanal’ is one of the darkest cultivars. These are groups at the front of borders, or in containers.The flowers are
make long-lasting cut flowers. shade-loving plants and suit a moist, shady border. also good for cutting.
H10–18 in (25–45 cm) S16 in (40 cm) OOORU H18 in (45 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOOSTV H10 in (25 cm) S12–24 in (30–60 cm) OOOSVU

SHADE-TOLERANT PERENNIALS
• Aconitum ‘Spark’s Variety’ • Epimedium x perralchicum
p.322 (damp shade) p.335 (dry shade)
• Adiantum venustum p.334 • Euphorbia griffithii ‘Dixter’
(damp shade) p.328 (damp shade)
• Anemone nemorosa • Geranium macrorrhizum
‘Bracteata Pleniflora’ p.329 (dry shade)
p.334 (damp shade) • Geranium ‘Nimbus’ p.329
• Asplenium scolopendrium (dry shade)
Crispum Group p.326 • Helleborus x hybridus
(damp shade) ‘Pluto’ p.336 (dry shade)
• Athyrium niponicum • Hosta cultivars p.330
Epimedium x perralchicum Eryngium bourgatii ‘Oxford Blue’ var. pictum p.334 (damp shade)
Strong-growing woodland plants, epimediums make excellent This is one of the smaller sea hollies. It is a herbaceous, (damp shade) • Lamprocapnos spectabilis f.
ground cover under trees or shrubs. This hybrid has both clump-forming plant with dark green lower leaves and, in • Dicentra ‘Bacchanal’ p.335 alba p.330 (damp shade)
interesting foliage—bronze when young, deep green when summer, spiny, silvery flower stems bearing silver-blue, (damp shade) • Pachysandra terminalis
mature—and pretty, bright yellow flowers, borne on leafless thistle-like flowers, surrounded by blue-tinged bracts.
• Dryopteris erythrosora p.336 (dry shade)
stems in spring. It is also drought-tolerant. The flower stems can be dried for indoor arrangements.
p.328 (damp shade)
H16 in (40 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOOSUV H6–18 in (15–45 cm) S12 in (30 cm) OOORu
336/337 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Small perennials

Euphorbia epithymoides Geranium clarkei ‘Kashmir White’ Geum ‘Lady Stratheden’

This euphorbia forms a loose, dome-shaped mound of Cranesbills make versatile, undemanding garden plants. The Also sold as Goldball, this cultivar yields large, semidouble,
lime green stems that carry canary-yellow flowerheads from ‘Kashmir’ cultivars are spreading, herbaceous perennials with rich yellow flowers over a long period throughout summer,
midspring to midsummer. The blooms are at their brightest dissected green foliage; they come in blue, pink, purple, and brightening up any border. A clump-forming perennial, it has
when young. The plant dies down in winter, re-emerging the white. This cultivar produces large, whitish summer flowers rounded and kidney-shaped leaves, both of which are hairy
next year with a batch of fresh young shoots. with pale lilac-pink veining. Divide vigorous plants in spring. to the touch. The plant comes true from seed.
H16 in (40 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOORsUV Hto 18 in (45 cm) Sindefinite OOORSU H16–24 in (40–60 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOORU

Helleborus x hybridus ‘Pluto’ Heuchera ‘Plum Pudding’ Heuchera ‘Red Spangles’

A named cultivar among a group of highly variable hellebores, Compact, evergreen perennials, heucheras are useful for Throughout the summer, the stems of ‘Red Spangles’ rise
‘Pluto’ is a clump-forming perennial noted for its striking year-round interest. This cultivar has purple ruffled leaves with from among green foliage, supporting small, tubular, rich
flowers. They are purple on the outside but green-tinged deeper purple veins. Small white flowers are held aloft on thin scarlet-crimson flowers, adding a splash of vibrant color
purple within and appear during winter when little else is wiry stems in late spring. Grow alongside silvery-leaved to the garden. Grow where it can spill over onto a path, or
offering garden interest. ‘Pewter Moon’ to show both off to good effect. include it in a mixed or shrub border.
H18 in (45 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOOSV H26 in (65 cm) S20 in (50 cm) OOORSUV H20 in (50 cm) S10 in (25 cm) OOORSUV

Lamium maculatum ‘White Nancy’ Oenothera fruticosa ‘Fyrverkeri’ Pachysandra terminalis

Spreading, low-growing plant, excellent for ground cover. The From late spring to late summer, the large, bright yellow Good for ground cover, this tough evergreen perennial is grown
toothed leaves are silver with a green edge, while the summer flowers of this evening primrose appear on upright stems for its foliage and will spread freely given enough moisture. It
flowers are pure white. Grow to cover bare soil and to suppress above the purple-brown-flushed leaves below. The flowers has coarsely toothed, glossy, dark green leaves and tiny white
weeds. ‘Red Nancy’ has silver leaves with purplish-red flowers. bloom during the day and are short-lived but are borne over flowers, which are carried in spikes in early summer. A useful
Hto 6 in (15 cm) Sto 3 ft (1 m) plus a long season. The plant will perform best in a sunny site. plant for shady sites.
OOORSUV H12–36 in (30–90 cm) S12 in (30 cm) OOORU H8 in (20 cm) Sindefinite OOOSTV
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Polypodium x mantoniae ‘Cornubiense’ Pulmonaria ‘Diana Clare’ Rhodanthemum hosmariense

The finely dissected fronds of this ground cover fern easily An early spring-flowering perennial, ‘Diana Clare’ is easy to Plants that flower from spring until fall are much prized in
cover the soil and break up the hard lines of path edges. New grow and needs very little attention once established. In late the garden and this daisy-flowered, shrubby perennial amply
growth starts in spring with the fronds taking several weeks winter and spring, clusters of violet-blue flowers, striped red, fulfills this role. The leaves are silver and deeply lobed while
to unfurl. This is a handsome, resilient plant for a damp and open above green leaves marked with silver. It makes good the flowers are white-petaled with a yellow eye. A plant for
shady spot in the yard. ground cover where the soil is not too dry. a sunny border or rock garden with very free-draining soil.
H12 in (30 cm) Sindefinite OOOStUV H12 in (30 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOOStV H4–12 in (10–30 cm) S12 in (30 cm) OORU

Salvia nemorosa Sedum ‘Vera Jameson’ Sempervivum tectorum

Wrinkly green leaves form a neutral backdrop to the main A striking stonecrop to grow for color impact. Purplish, fleshy The common houseleek creates starry patterns over the ground
attraction of purple, white, or pink flowers during the leaves and stems sprawl sideways while rounded heads of as its tight red rosettes hug the soil. Grow in old sinks,
summer and fall months. The flower stems stand stiff and rose-pink flowers are held aloft in late summer and early fall. troughs, or terracotta pots to show off the architectural
upright and, when seen from a low viewpoint, create a sea Mix with silvers and grays to accentuate the bold coloring; shapes. Reddish-purple flowers are borne in summer. A
of color. Grow in sun or dappled shade in well-drained soil. grow in a rock garden or at a border edge. gritty, well-drained compost and full sun are desirable.
Hto 3 ft (1 m) S24 in (60 cm) OOORSU H8–12 in (20–30 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOORU H6 in (15 cm) S20 in (50 cm) OOORU

PERENNIALS FOR CONTAINERS

• Agapanthus Headbourne • Melianthus major p.324
Hybrids p.326 • Musa basjoo p.324
• Astelia chathamica p.326 • Origanum laevigatum
• Bergenia ‘Morgenröte’ ‘Herrenhausen’ p.331
p.334 • Phlox paniculata ‘Norah
• Geum ‘Lady Leigh’ p.332
Stratheden’ p.336 • Phormium cookianum
• Gypsophila paniculata subsp. hookeri
‘Bristol Fairy’ p.329 ‘Tricolor’ p.333
• Helleborus foetidus p.329 • Phormium tenax
• Hemerocallis ‘Buzz Bomb’ Purpureum Group p.324
Veronica gentianoides Veronica spicata subsp. incana p.329 • Rhodanthemum
This pretty veronica is grown for its spikes of pale blue, Also known as the silver speedwell, this perennial marries • Heuchera ‘Plum Pudding’ hosmariense p.337
early-summer flowers held on erect stems above a mound of silver hairy leaves with spikes of purple-blue flowers, making p.336 • Sedum ‘Vera Jameson’
glossy, bright green foliage. In hot-hued borders it makes a it a good choice for a border comprising cool colors. Summer • Heuchera ‘Red Spangles’ p.337
contrast with reds and oranges, and is also effective when flowering, it is mat-forming and will spread, so clip back if
p.336 • Sempervivum tectorum
planted in drifts on its own. It performs best in moist soil. necessary after the blooms have faded.
• Hosta ‘Francee’ p.330 p.337
H18 in (45 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOORSUV H12 in (30 cm) S12 in (30 cm) OOORSUV
338/339 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Bulbs, corms, and tubers

Allium caeruleum Allium cristophii Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’

An early summer-flowering ornamental onion, this allium has Huge, rounded flowerheads made up of many star-like, The deep purple, spherical flowerheads of ‘Purple Sensation’
alluring ice-blue rounded flowerheads. The mid-green leaves pinkish-purple blooms ensure this plant’s place as a designers’ look stunning when planted with silver-leaved, shorter plants.
disappear before the flowers open, leaving solitary “lollipops” favorite. A scattering of these bulbs among low-growing This is a summer-flowering bulb that will self-sow around the
punctuating the border display on stiff stems. Well-drained plants adds unexpected interest in early summer. The dried garden, although the resulting seedlings may not be so richly
soil helps to prevent bulbs rotting in winter. seedheads are spectacular in indoor arrangements. colored. The blooms make decorative dried flowers.
H24 in (60 cm) S1 in (2.5 cm) OORU H12–24 in (30–60 cm) S6 in (15 cm) OORU H3 ft (1 m) S3 in (7 cm) OOORU

Anemone blanda ‘White Splendor’ Canna ‘Durban’ Canna ‘Striata’

Quick to establish and form a carpet, this white anemone brings Vividly colored foliage and bright, “hot” flowers, which A statement plant for a bed or border, ‘Striata’ has broad, rich
a gleam of light to gardens in spring. For a different color, try appear from late summer to fall, make cannas an exotic green leaves striped with yellow, and showy, bright orange
‘Radar’, which has magenta flowers with a white eye, or ‘Pink addition to mixed borders. The deep purple, paddle-shaped flowers, carried on dark red-purple stems, from midsummer
Star’, with bright pink blooms. All look delightful in large drifts leaves sometimes have contrasting midribs. Cannas look very to early fall. As with most cannas, in cold areas rhizomes
below spring-flowering trees. attractive in containers, adding a tropical element to a patio. should be lifted to overwinter in a frost-free place.
h6 in (15 cm) S6 in (15 cm) OOORSU H4 ft (1.2 m) S24 in (60 cm) OruV H5 ft (1.5 m) S20 in (50 cm) Oru

Convallaria majalis Crinum x powellii Crocosmia x crocosmiiflora ‘Gerbe d’Or’

Lily-of-the-valley is a creeping perennial loved for its sweetly A very decorative plant, this lily produces flared trumpet In a sunny border, the lemon-yellow trumpets of this South
fragrant, white, bell-shaped flowers. Dark green leaves are blooms, up to ten at a time, at the top of rigid stems from African plant will shine brightly against a background of
upward-pointing, with leafless flowerstalks rising among them late summer until midfall. It suits a position at the base of a bronze-tinted, mid-green foliage. Split the clumps every few
in late spring. The plant relishes moist, fertile soil in either full sheltered, sunny wall. In cooler areas, provide a deep winter years for a good supply of flowers. Crocosmias make excellent
or partial shade. All parts are toxic. mulch. For a pure white form, choose the cultivar ‘Album’. cut flowers and can be grown solely for this purpose.
H9 in (23 cm) S12 in (32 cm) OOOSTV H5 ft (1.5 m) S12 in (30 cm) OO/OOOrUv H30–36 in (75–90 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOOrUV
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Crocosmia x crocosmiiflora ‘Venus’ Crocosmia masoniorum x C. x crocosmiiflora Crocus goulimyi

The dense green, strappy foliage of this crocosmia is attractive ‘Firebird’ This is one of the fall-flowering crocuses, producing scented,
even before the red blooms appear in summer. As each flower A strong-growing crocosmia, ‘Firebird’ has tapering, strap- long-tubed, lilac flowers at the same time as the leaves. It can
opens, a distinctive deep yellow throat is revealed. Overgrown like foliage, joined in summer by arching stems of bright be naturalized in a lawn in drifts, grown around the edges of
clumps can be split and divided in spring and used to expand orange-red flowers with speckled throats. It tolerates drier mixed borders, or planted in containers on a patio (use a gritty
your border display. conditions than many crocosmias, and flowers freely. potting mix to ensure free drainage).
H28 in (70 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOOrUV H32 in (80 cm) S12–18 in (30–45 cm) OOOrUV H4 in (10 cm) S2 in (5 cm) OOOrU

Crocus tommasinianus Cyclamen hederifolium Dahlia ‘Bishop of Llandaff’

Silvery-lilac to purple petals are the distinguishing features These fluted pink flowers are carried above the soil surface The vivid red, semidouble flowers of this dahlia look dramatic
of this late winter- to early spring-flowering crocus. Grow in mid- to late fall before the appearance of any foliage. The against the black-red foliage, making it a striking addition to
in naturalized drifts in grassy areas or in small clumps in triangular or heart-shaped leaves are dark green with intricate a mixed border from summer to fall. ‘Bishop of Llandaff’ also
terracotta pots on a windowsill. For a white-flowered silver patterning. The plant self-seeds freely and suits a site suits containers. In frost-prone areas, tubers should be lifted
selection, try Crocus tommasinianus f. albus. under trees or shrubs in partial shade. Mulch annually. after the first frost and stored in a cool, dry place.
H3–4 in (8–10 cm) S1 in (2.5 cm) OOOrU H4–5 in (10–13 cm) S6 in (15 cm) OOOSU H3½ ft (1.1m) S18 in (45 cm) OrU

BULBS, CORMS, AND TUBERS

FOR SPRING COLOR
A range of bulbous plants will provide spring
color, including tulips, daffodils (Narcissus), crocuses,
snowdrops (Galanthus), winter aconites (Eranthis),
and hellebores.
• Anemone blanda var. • Muscari armeniacum
rosea ‘Radar’ p.338 ‘Blue Spike’ p.342
• Anemone blanda var. • Muscari latifolium p.342
rosea ‘Pink Star’ p.338 • Narcissus ‘Tête-à-tête’
• Crocus tommasinianus p.342
p.339 • Scilla siberica p.343
• Erythronium dens-canis • Tulipa ‘Flaming Parrot’
Dahlia ‘David Howard’ Dahlia ‘Gay Princess’ p.340 p.343
The dark green-purple leaves and stems make an excellent foil Waterlily dahlias are so-called because of the flowerhead • Fritillaria meleagris p.340 • Tulipa ‘Prinses Irene’
for the large, double, burnt orange flowers of this dahlia. Stems form, which is double and resembles a waterlily. This cultivar
• Hyacinthoides non-scripta p.343
can be used for indoor arrangements, and regular cutting will has lilac-pink blooms in summer and fall, above rich green
encourage further flowering. Site in a sunny border. See D. foliage. At 5 ft (1.5 m) tall it can be planted behind shorter p.340 • Tulipa ‘Queen of Night’
‘Bishop of Llandaff’ for overwintering advice. perennials in a border or grown for cut flowers. • Hyacinthus orientalis p.343
‘Blue Jacket’ p.340
H30 in (75 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OrU H5 ft (1.5 m) S30 in (75 cm) OrU
340/341 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Bulbs, corms, and tubers

Eranthis hyemalis Erythronium dens-canis Eucomis bicolor

Buttercup-yellow cup-shaped flowers, surrounded by a collar of The European dog’s-tooth violet produces heavily marked green The pineapple lily from South Africa needs full sun and rich soil
deeply-cut green leaves, are a welcome sight in the depths of leaves and dainty nodding flowers from winter to early spring, in order to flourish. Maroon-spotted stems appear among the
winter. Relatives of buttercups, winter aconites rapidly spread in colors ranging from white through to pink. The plant likes leaves in late summer, bearing pale green flowers with purple
by way of their underground tubers. Plant where the soil does well-drained soil in dappled shade, and looks attractive grown markings. It will grow best in a sheltered bed against a warm
not dry out in summer. underneath deciduous trees or shrubs. wall. Mulch dormant bulbs in very hard winters.
H2–3 in (5–8 cm) S3 in (8 cm) OOOSUV H4–6 in (10–15 cm) S4 in (10 cm) OOOSU H12–24 in (30–60 cm) S8 in (20 cm) OO/OOOrU

Fritillaria imperialis Fritillaria meleagris Galanthus ‘Atkinsii’

Tall, stately, and strong-growing, the crown imperial stands A native of English grasslands, the snake’s head fritillary looks The cold season would not be the same without snowdrops,
regally in the center of an island bed or within a mixed border stunning when planted en masse in grassy areas, each petal and there are plenty of cultivars to choose from. They flower
or rock garden. Clusters of orange flowers, yellow if you choose featuring a distinctive checkered pattern. These spring- from late winter and can be planted in grass or in small pots on
the cultivar ‘Maxima Lutea’, radiate from the top of tall stems flowering bulbs in pinkish-purple or white can be mixed to their own. Lift and divide clumps when the leaves die back
in early summer. create a patchwork effect. ‘Atkinsii’ is vigorous, with slender green-marked flowers.
Hto 5 ft (1.5 m) S10–12 in (25–30 cm) OOOrU Hto 12 in (30 cm) S2–3 in (5–8 cm) OOOrSv H8 in (20 cm) S3 in (8 cm) OOOSUV

Galtonia viridiflora Hyacinthoides non-scripta Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Blue Jacket’

A hyacinth relative from South Africa, galtonia has funnel- This is the English bluebell rather than the more upright- Famed for their exquisitely perfumed flowers, hyacinths are
shaped, pale green flowers which add glistening highlights to growing Spanish species. Plant the bulbs in broad drifts under very easy to grow. They are available in a range of colors and
a border. The flowers appear in late summer, suspended from trees in dappled shade for maximum impact in spring. Flowers the bulbs can be planted as spring bedding, singly in pots, or
tall arching stems. In very cold areas, lift the bulbs over winter are traditionally blue, although pink or white forms can be even rooted in water on a windowsill indoors. ‘Blue Jacket’ has
and store in a cool spot indoors. found. It can become invasive if planted in the border. navy-blue, waxy flowers with purple veins.
Hto 3 ft (1 m) S4 in (10 cm) OOSUV H8–16 in (20–40 cm) S3 in (8 cm) OOOSUV H8–12 in (20–30 cm) S3 in (8 cm) OOOrU
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Iris ‘Golden Alps’ Iris pallida ‘Variegata’ Iris ‘Superstition’

This cream and yellow, tall bearded iris should be planted The long, tapering, yellow-striped leaves of this iris surround Purple-brown and blue-black combine here with dramatic
with its lower stem and rhizome just above soil level. Sword- a succession of showy, scented blue flowers in late spring effect in this deeply colored, tall bearded iris. Plant with
shaped green leaves form a fan, while summer flowers are and early summer. This is a perfect plant for a hot border pale-colored selections such as ‘White Knight’ to create a
held high on sturdy stems. Bearded irises come in a range or exposed site where the sun can bake the soil surface. contrasting combination. The dark flowers are also fragrant,
of colors, and all are ideal for a sunny, mixed border. Lift clumps, divide, and replant in early fall. and appear almost black in fading light.
H36 in (90 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOORU Hto 4 ft (1.2 m) S18–24 in (45–60 cm) OOORU H36 in (90 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOORU

Leucojum aestivum ‘Gravetye Giant’ Lilium ‘African Queen’ Lilium ‘Black Beauty’
Similar to a large snowdrop, the summer snowflake is an Place some pots of these by your back door and you will be Lilies with this flower form are known as turk’s caps because
attractive plant for damp areas of the garden. Nodding white greeted by deliciously fragrant, bright orange trumpet flowers of the way the petals curve back on themselves, revealing
flowers with green petal tips emerge in spring; the narrow every time you step outside from mid- to late summer. This pollen-laden anthers. ‘Black Beauty’ is a vigorous type and
green leaves providing a subtle backdrop. ‘Gravetye Giant’ lily can also be grown in a border, if the flowers are in the sun can be positioned among herbaceous plants in the border,
is robust and will grow quite tall next to water. while the roots are kept shaded. or grown in containers for a movable midsummer display.
H36 in (90 cm) S3 in (8 cm) OOOSVW H5–6 ft (1.5–2 m) S10 in (25 cm) OORU H4½–6 ft (1.4–2 m) S10 in (25 cm) OOOrU

BULBS, CORMS, AND TUBERS

FOR SUMMER COLOR
• Allium caeruleum p.338 • Dahlia ‘David Howard’
• Allium cristophii p.338 p.339
• Allium hollandicum • Dahlia ‘Gay Princess’
‘Purpule Sensation’ p.339
p.338 • Fritillaria imperialis p.340
• Canna ‘Durban’ p.338 • Iris ‘Golden Alps’ p.341
• Canna ‘Striata’ p.338 • Iris pallida ‘Variegata’ p.341
• Crinum x powellii p.338 • Lilium ‘African
• Crocosmia x crocosmiiflora Queen’ p.341
‘Gerbe d’Or’ p.338 • Lilium ‘Black Beauty’
• Crocosmia x crocosmiiflora p.341
Lilium Citronella Group Lilium martagon ‘Venus’ p.339 • Lilium Citronella
An Asiatic lily, this group contains yellow-flowered plants with Scatter bulbs of the common turk’s-cap lily around a mixed • Crocosmia masoniorum x Group p.341
speckled, recurved petals. In midsummer, tall flower spikes are border and plant them where they land. The pretty flowers, C. x crocosmiiflora • Lilium martagon p.341
held erect and the buds unfold to reveal the showy blooms. It is which have recurved purple petals with dark markings, appear ‘Gerbe d’Or’ p.339 • Lilium Pink Perfection
vigorous, but needs feeding if it is to flourish. It also makes a from early to midsummer. The flowers of Lilium martagon var.
• Dahlia ‘Bishop of Group p.342
superb cut flower. album are pure white.
Llandaff’ p.339 • Lilium ‘Star Gazer’ p.342
H4–5 ft (1.2–1.5 m) S10 in (25 cm) OOORU H3–6 ft (0.9–2 m) S8 in (20 cm) OOORSU
342/343 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Bulbs, corms, and tubers

Lilium Pink Perfection Group Lilium regale Lilium ‘Star Gazer’

First introduced in 1950, the large, pinkish-red trumpets of The large, white, trumpet-shaped flowers of the regal lily Both the color and the perfume of ‘Star Gazer’ attract
this lily hybrid soon caught the attention of keen gardeners. are purple on the outside and held in clusters on tall stems, attention and make this Oriental lily one of the most popular
In midsummer, short flower stems are laden with lightly- creating an eye-catching display in midsummer. The lilies cut flowers ever developed. The pink and white flowers with
scented blooms with protruding orange anthers. Choose a are very fragrant and are ideal for use in mixed borders or speckled petals are upward-facing and robust, and appear
sunny site with some shade for the roots for best results. as cut flowers. The stems may need staking. in midsummer. Plant in a border or in a stylish container.
H5–6 ft (1.5–2 m) S10 in (25 cm) OOORU H2–6 ft (0.6–2 m) S10 in (25 cm) OOORU H3–5 ft (1–1.5 m) S10 in (25 cm) OOORU

Muscari armeniacum ‘Blue Spike’ Muscari latifolium Narcissus ‘Bridal Crown’

This is a double-flowered form of the common grape hyacinth. The flowers of this grape hyacinth seem to be wearing little ‘Bridal Crown’ has sweetly-scented double white blooms
Fleshy green narrow leaves form a carpet as small, fat spikes hats. Blue flower spikes are topped by small, paler-colored with pale orange centers. The flowers cluster together at
of blue flowers push their way through in spring. The plant flowers, while the leaves are mid-green and more flattened the top of the stems and appear in early spring. Plant bulbs
can become invasive, so restrict its spread by growing it in a than those of Muscari armeniacum (left). Attractive in drifts during fall in well-drained soil in a sunny border, or in a
container. Choose a site in full sun. at the front of a border, it is also good for a rock garden. container. ‘Bridal Crown’ makes a pretty cut flower.
H8 in (20 cm) S2 in (5 cm) OOORUV H8 in (20 cm) S2 in (5 cm) OOOSUV H16 in (40 cm) S6 in (15 cm) OOORU

Narcissus poeticus var. recurvus Narcissus ‘Tête-à-tête’ Narcissus ‘Thalia’

Known as the old pheasant’s eye, this late spring-flowering Tiny flowers on short stems make this a favorite spring bulb This delicately beautiful daffodil carries two milky-white
daffodil differs from Narcissus poeticus in having backward- for planting at the front of borders, in rock gardens, and in flowers per stem. Midspring sees these emerge from papery
curving petals. Pure white petals surround a yellow eye, which containers of all shapes and sizes. Plant en masse for the buds to lighten border plantings or provide early interest in
has a dainty, orange-frilled edge. It can be naturalized in a lawn, best effect, as small clumps can look insignificant. Container- a “white” border. Grow in a tall container and place against a
and is also good for cut flowers for the house. grown plants can be grown on a windowsill indoors. painted wall to make a bold statement.
H14 in (35 cm) S2–3 in (5–8 cm) OOORU H 6 in (15 cm) S 2 in (5 cm) OOORU H14 in (35 cm) S3 in (8 cm) OOOrU
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Nectaroscordum siculum subsp. bulgaricum Nerine bowdenii Scilla siberica

The flowers on this onion relative are green, white, and South Africa has given gardeners worldwide many wonderful The Siberian squill produces bright blue, pendent flowers in
burgundy. Grouped in sprays of 10–30 on top of tall stems, plants and this spectacular bulb is no exception. Stems of vivid spring, giving the garden a dash of color. The bulbs can be
they make an attractive display in early summer. Grow in a pink, spidery flowers appear from bare soil in fall. Nerines look grown in groups in a rock garden, between paving stones, or
wild garden or herbaceous border where the flowers will good in groups at the foot of a sunny, light-colored wall. Provide at the front of herbaceous and mixed borders. Plant in full
catch the eye. Deadhead to prevent it spreading. a deep mulch in winter in very cold areas. sun or part shade, and water well when in growth.
Hto 4 ft (1.2 m) S12–18 in (30–45 cm) OOSv H18 in (45 cm) S3–5 in (8–12 cm) OORU H4–8 in (10–20 cm) S2 in (5 cm) OOOrSU

Trillium grandiflorum Tulipa ‘Flaming Parrot’ Tulipa ‘Prinses Irene’

A vigorous plant for a woodland garden or border, wake robin This late spring-flowering tulip has fringed yellow petals, each The orange petals of this striking tulip look like they have been
forms clumps of dark green, rounded leaves with distinctive, with a distinctive red blaze. Inside is a cluster of black anthers. painted with delicate brush strokes of purple. Flowering in
three-petaled white flowers in spring and summer. The form Grow as a single variety in formal beds or in drifts, merging with midspring, ‘Prinses Irene’ is effective when grouped in swathes
‘Flore Pleno’ is slower-growing and has double flowers. other colors. Alternatively, plant a number of the bulbs in a tall in a border or planted as part of a container display with
pot or container in a sunny position. decorative grasses. It can also be cut for indoor arrangements.
Hto 16 in (40 cm) S12 in (30 cm) plus OOOSTU
H22 in (55 cm) S6 in (15 cm) OOORU H14 in (35 cm) S6 in (15 cm) OOORU

BULBS, CORMS, AND TUBERS

TO USE FOR SCENT
Plant groups with a range of scented cultivars
include many daffodils (Narcissus), crocuses, lilies,
some snowdrops (Galanthus), Leucojum (snowflake),
hyacinths, cyclamen, and freesias.
• Convallaria majalis p.338 p.341
• Crocus goulimyi p.339 • Lilium martagon p.341
• Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Blue • Lilium Pink Perfection
Jacket’ p.340 Group p.342
• Leucojum aestivum • Lilium ‘Star Gazer’ p.342
‘Gravetye Giant’ • Narcissus ‘Bridal Crown’
p.341 (light scent) p.342
Tulipa ‘Queen of Night’ Tulipa ‘Spring Green’ • Lilium ‘African Queen’ • Narcissus poeticus var.
Popular because it is so deeply colored and satiny, this late This Viridiflora Group tulip sports a green feathery flash on p.341 recurvus p.342
spring-flowering tulip looks striking if planted among purple each of its ivory-white petals and adds an elegant touch to • Lilium ‘Black Beauty’ Grow bulbs in pots by
and black-leaved perennials and low shrubs, or with gray or a mixed or color-themed border. Plant where it can be
p.341 the house or in drifts for
silver-leaved plants. Alternatively, use it in front of a appreciated at close quarters, as it is only 16 in (40 m)
pale-painted fence or wall for contrast. high when flowering in late spring. • Lilium Citronella Group maximum appreciation.

H24 in (60 cm) S6 in (15 cm) OOORU H16 in (40 cm) S4 in (10 cm) OOORU
344/345 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Grasses, sedges, and bamboos

Acorus calamus ‘Argenteostriatus’ Anemanthele lessoniana Arundo donax var. versicolor

An undemanding evergreen, the sweet rush, or sweet flag, Fine-leaved pheasant’s-tail grass has a pleasing arching habit. The striking variegation of the evergreen giant reed (the white
thrives in damp or boggy soils, making it the perfect plant In summer, it produces purplish flower spikes; in winter, the stripes turn a creamy yellow in summer) makes it a popular
for the shallows of a pond edge. Like all acorus, it is non- evergreen leaves turn an eye-catching orange-brown. Leave choice, although it is less vigorous than the green form and not
invasive, and its strong cream variegation will remain vivid, the seedheads—hungry birds will quickly collect them during as hardy. In cold areas, enjoy it outdoors in summer, then bring
even in deep shade. winter. The plant may need protection in cold areas. it under cover for the winter; grow it in a pot for flexibility.
h18 in (45 cm) s18 in (45 cm) OOOstvw h3 ft (1 m) s4 ft (1.2 m) OOrsuv h7 ft (2.2 m) s6 ft (2 m) OOrsvw

Briza maxima Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Overdam’ Carex buchananii

One of the most attractive of the annual grasses, quaking grass Use the striped feather reed to make a strong vertical accent in This striking evergreen sedge from New Zealand has slender,
is easy to grow from seed (sow into individual modules for the prairie-style planting. As the leaves emerge in spring, there is a coppery-brown leaves with a hint of a curl. It is stiffly upright
best results). The nodding flowerheads rattle in the lightest pink tinge to the green and white variegation; cutting the when young, becoming more arching with age, and it contrasts
breeze, making it clear how the common name arose. The foliage back in late summer will encourage a second flush of well with golden sedges and blue grasses. In early spring, comb
stems dry well for flower arranging. new growth. Unfussy, the plant tolerates most soils. out any dead leaves with a fork, or cut them back.
h12 in (30 cm) s9 in (23 cm) OOOruvw h3 ft (1 m) s4 ft (1.2 m) OOOru h2 ft (60 cm) s2 ft (60 cm) OOrsuv

Carex elata ‘Aurea’ Carex oshimensis ‘Evergold’ Carex testacea

Deservedly one of the most widely grown sedges, Bowles’ The low-arching habit of this neat evergreen sedge makes it a In full sun, the hair-thin, olive-yellow leaves of this sedge
golden sedge produces a broad spray of vibrant yellow leaves, useful plant for containers or as ground cover in shade, where develop orange tints. In midsummer, small brown flower
edged in green. In summer there is the added bonus of its long golden yellow and thinly striped green leaves add a spikes appear. A New Zealand plant, it forms dense, evergreen
feathery brown flower spikes. A compact, deciduous plant, touch of light color. Like many sedges, it is happy in boggy soil mounds, but it is not as hardy as its relatives and it may need
it produces its best color in partial shade. and makes a decorative addition to poolside plantings. winter protection in cold areas.
h30 in (75 cm) s3 ft (1 m) OOOstvw h20 in (50 cm) s18 in (45 cm) OOOstvw h18 in (45 cm) s3 ft (1 m) OOrsuv
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Cortaderia selloana ‘Aureolineata’ Cortaderia selloana ‘Pumila’ Deschampsia flexuosa ‘Tatra Gold’
Ideal for small gardens, this dwarf pampas is half the size of the Hardier and more free-flowering than the taller species, Wavy hair grass forms slowly-spreading tufts of fine evergreen
parent species, and has broad leaves with golden edges that this dwarf pampas grass mixes surprisingly well in a border. leaves. ‘Tatra Gold’ grows well in moist shade, where its
become more richly colored as the season progresses. The Long-lasting golden-brown plumes are produced in summer acid-green leaves look almost luminous. In summer, it produces
colorful leaves and silky plume-like flowerheads add a dramatic on stout stems. Combing through the leaves with a garden fork a shimmering haze of red-brown flowers. Plant it in large drifts
highlight to late summer borders and gravel gardens. in winter will keep the clump looking neat. among bright leaved sedges for a dramatic effect.
h5 ft (1.5 m) s5 ft (1.5 m) OOOruv h6 ft (2 m) s6 ft (2 m) OOOruv h6 in (15 cm) s6 in (15 cm)OOOstv

Elymus magellanicus Fargesia murielae Festuca glauca ‘Elijah Blue’

Blue wheatgrass is so-named because of its wonderful blue A tough plant for tough situations, this evergreen bamboo One of those useful plants that look good year-round, the
color—it looks stunning against a gravel mulch—and the copes well with dry soils and exposed sites, and makes an silvery-blue, needle-like leaves of this fescue form neat, round
herringbone flowerheads that look like ears of wheat. It forms effective windbreak or screen. The closely spaced, arching mounds. In summer, the plant produces spikes of small blue
slow-spreading, rather sprawling clumps of evergreen leaves canes are slow-spreading, and it won’t engulf its neighbors. flowers that age to brown. It is particularly effective grown as
that need winter protection in cold areas. Use it at the back of a border or in a container. a container plant, contrasting well with terracotta and metal.
h18 in (45 cm) s18 in (45 cm) OOOruv h12 ft (4 m) s12 ft (4 m) OOOrsuv h12 in (30 cm) s24 in (60 cm) OOOrsuv

GRASSES, SEDGES, AND BAMBOOS

FOR CONTAINERS
• Acorus calamus • Imperata cylindrica
‘Argenteostriatus’ ‘Rubra’ p.345
p.344 • Miscanthus sinensis
• Arundo donax var. cultivars p.346
versicolor p.344 • Ophiopogon planiscapus
• Carex buchananii p.344 ‘Nigrescens’ p.346
• Carex oshimensis • Phyllostachys aureosulcata
‘Evergold’ p.344 f. aureocaulis p.347
• Carex testacea p.344 • Phyllostachys nigra p.347
• Deschampsia flexuosa • Phyllostachys vivax
‘Tatra Gold’ p.345 f. aureocaulis p.347
Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’ Imperata cylindrica ‘Rubra’ • Elymus magellanicus p.345 • Uncinia rubra p.347
A beautiful slow-growing, deciduous grass from Japan that Japanese blood grass is undisputedly one of the finest foliage • Fargesia murielae p.345
deserves to be the centerpiece in a container or a dry gravel plants—fluffy white flower spikes are a bonus in summer. • Festuca glauca ‘Elijah
border. The low-arching, golden yellow leaves, which are thinly Position it carefully, so the crimson-tipped, upright leaves are Blue’ p.345
striped with lime green, develop a warm reddish tinge backlit by the sun. In cold areas, grow it in a container and bring
• Hakonechloa macra
in fall. Cut back in early spring to encourage new growth. under cover during winter.
‘Aureola’ p.345
h10 in (25 cm) s3 ft (1 m) OOOrsv h18 in (45 cm) s6 ft (2 m) OOrsv
346/347 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Grasses, sedges, and bamboos

Lagurus ovatus Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’ Miscanthus sinensis ‘Kleine Silberspinne’

A popular garden plant because of its fluffy flowerheads, the A dainty-looking subject for a grass garden or mixed border, An attractive ornamental grass with colorful, curving plumes,
hare’s-tail grass is a tufted annual that can be grown easily maiden grass produces a shock of narrow green leaves with this miscanthus does not grow as tall as the species. In late
from seed sown in situ in spring. The soft, hairy spikelets, pale white midribs. After the late summer flush, the curved leaves summer and early fall, silky white and red flower spikes appear,
green at first, maturing to pale cream, form in summer and can take on a bronzy hue as temperatures cool. Leave in place as turning to silver as they age and lasting all winter. Cut down to
be cut for indoor displays. a structural element through the winter. ground level in spring before new growth emerges.
Hto 20 in (50 cm) S12 in (30 cm) OOORU H 4½ ft (1.3 m) S4 ft (1.2 m) OOORUV H4 ft (1.2 m) S4 ft (1.2 m) OOORUV

Miscanthus sinensis ‘Malepartus’ Miscanthus sinensis ‘Silberfeder’ Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’

One of the easiest of the miscanthus to establish, ‘Malepartus’ This cultivar is grown mainly for its fall show of red-tinged, Easily confused with the more upright-growing M. sinensis
looks good spilling onto a lawn or path edge where it can be creamy flowers that last well and are held above narrow, green ‘Strictus’, ‘Zebrinus’ has a more lax habit and spreads more
seen at close quarters. Feathery reddish-brown flowerheads, foliage. ‘Silberfeder’ needs space to be seen at its best and a readily. The unusual horizontal bands of pale cream variegation
maturing to cream, appear from late summer to fall among the site that doesn’t get waterlogged. Plant in front of a dark- make it an interesting subject for a grass garden or large zinc
cascading green foliage. leaved hedge for a perfect backdrop. planter. The brown deciduous foliage offers winter interest.
H6 ft (2 m) S6 ft (2 m) OOORUV H8 ft (2.5 m) S4 ft (1.2 m) OOORUV Hto 4 ft (1.2 m) S4 ft (1.2 m) OOORUV

Molinia caerulea subsp. caerulea ‘Variegata’ Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’ Panicum virgatum ‘Heavy Metal’
This is a densely tufted perennial with boldly variegated green Few plants are as deeply colored as this clump-forming, tufted A deciduous perennial grass with stiff, upright, steely gray-
and cream leaves. From spring through to fall, purple-tinged perennial. Although not strictly a grass, its appearance and green leaves. In favorable conditions, the foliage will turn
flowers are borne on yellow flower stems. The whole plant habit make it a useful plant in garden plans where grasses yellow in fall, gradually fading to pale brown in winter. Wispy
matures to a pale bronzy-brown in fall, an effect that looks predominate. It also looks dramatic in pale-colored containers. flowerheads bearing purple-green flowers emerge during
striking in a gravel garden. Small, pale purplish-white flowers appear in summer. summer. Plant in clumps of threes or fives for impact.
H18–24 in (45–60 cm) S16 in (40 cm) OOORSU H8 in (20 cm) S12 in (30 cm) OOORSUV H3 ft (1 m) S30 in (75 cm) OOORU
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade U well-drained soil V moist soil W wet soil

Pennisetum alopecuroides Phalaris arundinacea var. picta Phyllostachys aureosulcata f. aureocaulis

Also known appropriately as the fountain grass, this evergreen Gardeners’ garters is a vigorous, spreading plant, useful for A delightful mix of green-streaked yellow stems and green,
perennial has narrow, mid-green leaves that tumble from the lightening a shady corner or in a cottage garden. Trim unkempt tapering leaves make this evergreen bamboo a popular garden
center of the plant, joined in summer and fall by flowing, leaves in late summer to maintain a neat look. New plantlets choice. The yellow-groove bamboo, as it is known, is a vigorous
bristly, decorative flowerheads. It needs a warm, sheltered will spread if the clump is not kept in check, so grow in a plant and is recommended for larger gardens, where it can be
site since it is not fully hardy. container sunk into the ground if this is a concern. used as a screen. It can also be grown in containers.
H2–5 ft (0.6–1.5 m) S2–4 ft (0.6–1.2 m) OORU Hto 3 ft (1 m) Sindefinite OOORSV H10–20 ft (3–6 m) Sindefinite OOORSUV

Phyllostachys nigra Phyllostachys vivax f. aureocaulis Stipa gigantea

The black bamboo is grown for its distinctive stems, which are Like many bamboos, this is a vigorous, fast-growing plant. Giant feather grass is a fabulous plant for the garden,
initially green and then turn glossy black, contrasting well with The bright yellow canes are flecked with green and it has commanding a prime position in a raised bed or mixed border in
the fresh green leaves. It has a tall, upright habit, so grow for slim, arching foliage. Plant it in a large container, or surround full sun. Tall, fluttering plumes of flowers emerge above the
impact in a border, or in blocks in a Modernist scheme. the plant’s roots below soil level with an impenetrable barrier evergreen foliage in summer; the stems create a transparent
to control its spread. screen, allowing shorter plants to be seen behind them.
H10–15 ft (3–5 m) S6–10 ft (2–3 m) OOORSUV
Hto 25 ft (8 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOORSUV Hto 8 ft (2.5 m) S4 ft (1.2 m) OOORU

EVERGREEN GRASSES, SEDGES,

AND BAMBOOS
• Acorus calamus • Phalaris arundinacea
‘Argenteostriatus’ var. picta p.347
p.344 • Phyllostachys aureosulcata
• Carex buchananii p.344 f. aureocaulis p.347
• Carex oshimensis • Phyllostachys nigra p.347
‘Evergold’ p.344 • Phyllostachys vivax
• Carex testacea p.344 f. aureocaulis p.347
• Deschampsia flexuosa • Stipa gigantea p.347
‘Tatra Gold’ p.345 • Uncinia rubra p.347
• Fargesia murielae p.345
• Festuca glauca
Stipa tenuissima Uncinia rubra ‘Elijah Blue’ p.345
In summer, this neat, compact, deciduous perennial produces The tough ochre-red leaves of this evergreen perennial are • Ophiopogon planiscapus
soft feathery stems with green flowerheads that fade to buff. three-angled and upright, joined in mid- and late summer by ‘Nigrescens’ p.346
The fine leaves gently wave in the slightest breeze, and contrast dark brown flowers. It makes an unusual specimen for a gravel • Pennisetum alopecuroides
well with dark green foliage plants. The fall seedheads are or scree garden where the soil is free-draining but not too dry.
p.347
very attractive to birds. Protect from the elements in very cold winters.
H24 in (60 cm) S12 in (30 cm) OOORU H12 in (30 cm) S14 in (35 cm) OORSUV
348/349 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Water and bog plants

Actaea simplex Atropurpurea Group ‘Brunette’ Aruncus dioicus ‘Kneiffii’ Astilbe ‘Fanal’
A herbaceous perennial for a damp, shady area in the garden, Fern-like foliage and tumbling flowerheads resembling small Producing feathery plumes of long-lasting, crimson flowers
‘Brunette’ has bronze, deeply-cut foliage and slender spires of white caterpillars combine to create this striking plant. The in early summer, ‘Fanal’ adds fiery interest to a garden with
fluffy, fragrant white flowers in late summer, which show up flowers appear in summer and make a bright focal point in a boggy soil. Finely cut, dark green leaves provide a suitable
well against a dark background. Plant in moisture-retentive bog garden or at a pond edge. It looks delicate, but is in fact backdrop for the intense flower color. Plant in groups of threes
soil in a woodland or shady bog garden. robust and will tolerate full sun or part shade. or fives to make a bold statement.
H4 ft (1.2 m) S24 in (60 cm) OOOS u H30 in (75 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OORS u H2–3 ft (60–100 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOOS u

Astilbe ‘Professor van der Wielen’ Astilbe ‘Willie Buchanan’ Butomus umbellatus
A plant that needs space to show off its full potential, this This astilbe cultivar produces a haze of pink when its tiny The flowering rush is a deservedly popular plant for pond
astilbe produces large, arching sprays of delicate creamy- white flowers with red stamens, borne on fine, branching margins, where it can immerse its feet in wet soil. The leaves
white flowers in midsummer above fern-like foliage. Place flower stems, open from mid- to late summer. Ideal for a are narrow and angled, bronze-purple when young, turning
at the back of a wet border or pond-edge garden plan, and pond or path edge, plant en masse for a wonderful floral to mid-green. In late summer, delicate, pale pink, fragrant
divide clumps every three to four years. display. The flowers attract beneficial insects. flowers are borne on slender stems.
H4 ft (1.2 m) Sto 3 ft (1 m) OOOS u H9–12 in (23–30 cm) S8 in (20 cm) OOORS u H3 ft (1 m) Sunlimited OOOR y r 2–6 in (5–15 cm)

Caltha palustris Darmera peltata Eupatorium maculatum ‘Atropurpureum Group’

Marsh marigolds bring color to pond margins as their intense The umbrella plant is a slow-spreading perennial that looks A great plant for late summer and early fall color, this stately
yellow, cup-shaped blooms appear in late spring. Grow in good alongside streams and pond margins. Heads of white to perennial bears clusters of small pink flowers on tall, purple
planting baskets to control their spread. Try C. palustris var. pink flowers appear in late spring on long stems before the stems. Toothed, purple-green leaves circle the stems right up
alba for white flowers. large, rounded green leaves appear. The foliage gradually to the flowerheads. It attracts bees and butterflies, and makes
H24 in (60 cm) S18 in (45 cm) OOOrS turns red in the fall before dying down. a superb addition to a wildlife bog garden.
y r at water level H4 ft (1.2 m) Sunlimited OOORS u H6 ft (2 m) S3 ft (1 m) OOORS u
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade u bog plant y marginal plant t aquatic plant r planting depth

Filipendula rubra ‘Venusta’ Gunnera manicata Iris laevigata

The queen of the prairies needs space to spread, so choose A real giant of the bog garden with huge, rhubarb-like leaves, This iris flourishes reliably in the wet soil in the shallows of
a planting position for this perennial carefully. Green jagged gunnera demands plenty of room, even for just one plant. A ponds and streams. Blue-purple flowers crown green stems
leaves sit below wiry stems bearing a frothy display of deep herbaceous perennial, it makes a dramatic statement at the in early and midsummer, and sit among broad, sword-shaped,
rose-pink flowers in early and midsummer. Use its height to waterside. Plant in permanently moist soil and cover the mid-green leaves. Clumps will spread steadily.
form a screen at the back of a bog garden display. crowns with a dry mulch in hard winters. H30 in (75 cm) S3 ft (1 m) OOOR
H6 ft (2 m) Sunlimited OORS u H15 ft (4.5 m) S10 ft (3 m) OORS u y r 4–6 in (10–15 cm)

Iris pseudacorus ‘Variegata’ Iris ‘Butter and Sugar’ Iris sibirica ‘Perry’s Blue’
This is the variegated-leaved version of the well-known yellow Bred from the Siberian iris, ‘Butter and Sugar’ bears shapely This is a traditional cultivar producing closely spaced flower
flag iris. Pale yellow stripes decorate the green, upright leaves flowers with white upper petals and butter-yellow lower petals stems that carry mid-blue flowers with rusty-colored veins. It
when young; the yellow blooms appear in summer. A spreading from mid- to late spring. Each stem is surrounded by green flowers in early summer and will bring color to the edges of
iris, it needs restricting if it is not to become invasive. Plant in a strappy foliage and can hold up to five blooms. Divide the tight small ponds and borders with boggy soil. Plant with
basket at the margins of a pond. clumps in spring or once flowers have faded. lighter-flowered irises for duo-tone effect.
H3 ft (1 m) S30 in (75 cm) OOOR y r 6 in (15 cm) H20 in (50 cm) S10 in (25 cm) OOR u H3 ft (1 m) S24 in (60 cm) OOR u

PLANTS FOR YOUR POND

AQUATIC t • Iris versicolor ‘Kermesina’

• Nymphaea ‘Darwin’ p.349
p.350 • Myosotis scorpioides p.350
• Nymphaea ‘Froebelii’ • Orontium species p.98
p.350 • Pontederia cordata p.350
• Nymphaea ‘Gonnère’ • Sagittaria species p.98
p.350 • Saururus species p.98
• Nymphaea ‘Marliacea • Typha minima p.351
Chromatella’ p.350 • Zantedeschia aethiopica
p.351
MARGINAL y
• Butomus umbellatus OXYGENATING PLANT
Iris versicolor ‘Kermesina’ Kirengeshoma palmata • Ranunculus aquatilis p.98
From eastern North America, the blue flag is a small iris for An unusual plant for the bog garden, this clump-forming p.348
small ponds. In summer, the species has lavender-blue flowers perennial has jagged green leaves with reddish-purple stems. • Caltha palustris p.348
with white markings, while ‘Kermesina’ bears red-purple Pale yellow, bell-shaped flowers hang from the slim stems above • Iris laevigata p.349
blooms. The long, strappy leaves add architectural interest the foliage in late summer and early fall. Plant in moist acid soil • Iris pseudacorus
to a pond margin from spring until fall when they die down. in a part-shaded sheltered site. ‘Variegata’ p.349
H30 in (75 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOOR y r 2 in (5 cm) H4 ft (1.2 m) S30 in (75 cm) OOS u
350/351 Plant and materials guide
PLANT GUIDE

Water and bog plants

Ligularia stenocephala ‘The Rocket’ Matteuccia struthiopteris Myosotis scorpioides

A plant of contrasts with jet black flower stems and bright The common names of shuttlecock fern and ostrich fern can Plant the water forget-me-not close to a pond edge, where
yellow flowers, this bog lover is a must for larger gardens. be easily understood when the enormous finely dissected its flowers can be seen clearly. The tiny blue blooms have
The leaves form a carpet through which the flower spikes fronds emerge from the ground in spring. During late summer, white, pink, or yellow eyes and appear in early summer.
emerge from early to late summer. Choose a bright site but fertile, narrow brown fronds cluster at the center of the plant The cultivar ‘Mermaid’ has a more compact habit.
one that is shaded from the midday sun. and last through winter. Grow in moist shade. H18 in (45 cm) Sunlimited OOORS
H6 ft (2 m) S 3½ ft (1.1 m) OOORS u H 5½ ft (1.7 m) Sto 3 ft (1 m) OOOS u y r at water level

Nymphaea ‘Darwin’ Nymphaea ‘Froebelii’ Nymphaea ‘Gonnère’

The almost peony-like, fragrant flowers of this waterlily are Tiny burgundy-red flowers with golden stamens open A stunning water lily for medium-sized ponds, ‘Gonnère’
pale pink in the center while the outermost petals are white between the dark green leaves (bronze when young) of sends up pure white fragrant flowers with yellow stamens
with a tinge of pink. With its large, flat, dark green leaves ‘Froebelii’ to make a perfect miniature water lily. Ideal for from mid- to late summer. The circular lily pads are bronze
and vigorous growth, ‘Darwin’ (also sold as Hollandia) is small ponds, tubs, or half-barrels, it will put on a beautiful when young but soon turn a light pea-green. Grow in full
best suited to medium-sized to large ponds. flower display from midsummer to fall. sun for the best results.
S5 ft (1.5 m) OOOR t r 2–3 ft (60–100 cm) S30 in (75 cm) OOOR t r 12–18 in (30–45 cm) S5 ft (1.5 m) OOOR t r 24–30 in (60–75 cm)

Nymphaea ‘Marliacea Chromatella’ Osmunda regalis Pontederia cordata

This is a very old cultivar that has stood the test of time. The royal fern makes an arresting sight at the edge of a pond Pretty from a distance, this plant is exquisite close-up.
Lemon-yellow flowers, with broad incurved petals and deep with its toes just in the water. It is deciduous, producing a The pickerel weed is a marginal plant with bright green,
yellow centers, are produced from mid- to late summer and crop of fresh, mid-green sterile fronds that gracefully unfurl lance-shaped leaves with spikes of starry blue flowers in
appear between floating olive-green leaves with bronze each spring. In summer, upright, fertile, tassel-like fronds form late summer. There is also a white-flowered cultivar, ‘Alba’.
markings. Plant in a medium-sized pond or pool in full sun. in the center of the plant. This fern needs space to spread. H3–4½ ft (0.9–1.3 m) S24–30 in (60–75 cm)
S5 ft (1.5 m) OOOR t r 2–3 ft (60–100 cm) H6 ft (2 m) S12 ft (4 m) OOORS u OOOR yr 12 in (30 cm)
OOO fully hardy OO hardy in mild regions/sheltered sites O protect from frost over winter £ no tolerance to frost
r full sun s partial sun t full shade u bog plant y marginal plant t aquatic plant r planting depth

Primula alpicola Primula beesiana Primula ‘Inverewe’

Originally from Tibet, this moisture-loving primula flowers A semievergreen candelabra primula, P. beesiana has vivid In summer, up to 15 bright red flowers appear on each white
in midsummer with fragrant white, yellow, or violet tubular magenta flowers in summer. The spherical flowerheads appear stem on this semievergreen candelabra primula. The mid-green
blooms on whitish stems. The deciduous leaves are mid-green at intervals up greenish-white stems, giving rise to the plant’s leaves are oval with toothed margins. The plant is a vigorous
and have toothed or scalloped margins. Plant in a bog garden common name. Plant in a boggy border, or at a pond edge, in grower that prefers partial shade, but will tolerate full sun as
or in soil that stays reliably damp. large groups with ferns to create a colorful, textured display. long as the roots are kept moist.
H20 in (50 cm) S12 in (30 cm) OOOS u H24 in (60 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOOS u H30 in (75 cm) S24 in (60 cm) OOORS u

Rheum palmatum ‘Atrosanguineum’ Rodgersia pinnata ‘Superba’ Sanguisorba canadensis

This ornamental rhubarb needs a large garden to accommodate Grown for its foliage, the young, purplish-bronze leaves of This is a tall plant that needs to be placed at the back of a
its 3-foot-long, toothed leaves and huge plumes of cerise-pink this plant mature to dark green with distinctive veins, giving bog garden or moist border. It produces lush green foliage on
summer flowers. The young leaves are purple, but fade to green a puckered appearance. From mid- to late summer, clusters of branching stems, and long, bottlebrush-like spikes of small
as they age. The soil has to be deep, moist, and very fertile to tiny bright pink flowers reach above the leaves, followed by white flowers, which open from the bottom upward, in late
sustain healthy growth. brown seedheads. Protect from cold winds. summer and early fall. Divide clumps in spring or fall.
Hto 8 ft (2.5 m) Sto 6 ft (1.8 m) OOORS u Hto 4 ft (1.2 m) S30 in (75 cm) OOORS u Hto 6 ft (2 m) S3 ft (1 m) OOORS u

PLANTS FOR BOGGY SOIL

• Actaea simplex • Iris sibirica ‘Perry’s Blue’
Atropurpurea Group p.349
‘Brunette’ p.348 • Kirengeshoma palmata
• Aruncus dioicus p.349
‘Kneiffii’ p.348 • Ligularia stenocephala
• Astilbe ‘Professor van ‘The Rocket’ p.350
der Wielen’ p.348 • Matteuccia struthiopteris
• Astilbe ‘Willie p.350
Buchanan’ p.348 • Osmunda regalis p.350
• Eupatorium maculatum • Primula alpicola p.351
‘Atropurpureum • Primula ‘Inverewe’ p.329
Typha minima Zantedeschia aethiopica Group’ p.348 • Rheum palmatum
An ideal plant for small ponds or tubs, this perennial has One of the most exotic-looking marginal plants, the arum lily • Filipendula rubra ‘Venusta’ ‘Atrosanguineum’ p.351
clusters of narrow vertical leaves, which are joined in late brings grace and style to ponds and bog gardens. Large pure p.349 • Rodgersia pinnata
summer by cylindrical flower spikes. The flower stalks can white flowers, which gleam against the bright green foliage, • Gunnera manicata p.349 ‘Superba’ p.351
be cut and used in indoor arrangements. open from late spring through to midsummer. Grow in shallow
• Iris ‘Butter • Sanguisorba canadensis
Hto 30 in (75 cm) S12–18 in (30–45 cm) OOOR water, dividing the rootstock if necessary in spring.
and Sugar’ p.349 p.351
yr 12 in (30 cm) H36 in (90 cm) S36 in (90 cm) OOR yr 6 in (15 cm)
 352/353 Plant and materials guide
MATERIALS GUIDE

Surfaces
Materials

Bricks Concrete blocks

Clay bricks are timeless and can be laid in a variety of patterns. In place of bricks you can use less costly concrete blocks, which
The color range is determined by the clay and the firing; also come in a wide range of sizes, shapes, colors, and textures. You
the higher the temperature (and the cost), the more durable the can also buy blocks set on a fabric backing (“carpet stones”) or
brick. For paths and patios, bricks must be frostproof and molded into a slab for easy laying. Concrete blocks can easily
guide

hardwearing; house bricks are not suitable. take the weight of a car and are ideal for driveways.
$–$$ ww e reds, buffs, browns, blue/grays $ ww e concrete can be dyed almost any color

Granite blocks Terra-cotta tiles

Granite blocks have great charm and are increasingly available These offer the warmth and color of the Mediterranean,
from reclamation yards for use in the garden—where they but most are not frostproof. Their porousness creates a safe,
make a hardwearing surface for paths and driveways. Individual non-slip surface, but makes them vulnerable to staining, so
blocks vary in size and depth, which can make leveling and apply a sealant. Available in a huge range of sizes and shapes,
Hard landscaping materials provide fitting them together a challenge. the colors are determined by the kiln firing of natural clays.

the essential structures that every $$ ww e blue/grays, pink, black $–$$$ w e orange, red, mellow yellow

garden needs to create a usable

space. As well as their practical
functions, walls, paving, fences,
and structures also help to shape
the overall design, forming a
permanent framework for the more
ephemeral planting. Factors to
consider when choosing materials
include their cost, color range,
ease of installation, durability, and
environmental impact—look online
for options and check readers’ Stone and tiles Crazy paving
You can have some fun with mixed colored materials— A 1970s favorite, crazy paving is brought up-to-date by using
reviews of those you select. This here, granite blocks, terra-cotta, and glazed tiles. If you have just one type of stone—here, reclaimed Yorkstone. It makes
a handful of expensive tiles, this is a great way to eke them a hardwearing surface for patios and driveways, although
at-a-glance directory shows out. Laying the blocks and tiles on a dry mortar mix will help laying a random pattern isn’t as easy as it appears. You may
you what materials are available you to adjust the different levels and avoid an uneven surface. need professional help to achieve a decorative mosaic effect.
and their essential properties. $–$$$ ww e various $–$$ ww e large range
$$$ high cost $$ medium cost $ low cost ww high durability w low durability e color options

Granite Limestone Marble

A popular stainproof surface for kitchens, polished granite is A sedimentary rock, limestone often has shells and fossils More familiar in sunnier climes, marble is increasing in
diamond-hard and tough enough for use in the garden. It comes embedded in it. Riven stone (shown here) is popular in gardens popularity as a sophisticated landscaping material. When
in a huge range of colors; some also include speckled and because it is split in a way that leaves a roughened, non-slip polished, it has a lustrous quality that will smarten up any patio.
streaked detailing. Affordable composite and terrazzo (granite surface. Limestone darkens when its wet and it can stain, so The characteristic veining is caused by mineral impurities.
chips bonded with cement and polished) are available. consider sealing it. Available as composite. Consider sealing. Available as composite.
$$–$$$ ww e black and greens to pinks, reds, cream $$–$$$ ww e gray, white, pale red, yellow, black $$–$$$ ww e white, black, gray, green, pink, red

Sandstone Slate Travertine

Made up of small mineral grains, sandstone is easy to cut and Stylish and modern, slate is a hardwearing fine-grained stone. Popular as a building material since Roman times, travertine
lay. The import market has made available a wide range of Unless polished, it’s non-slip, even when wet, making it ideal is a dense form of calcium carbonate. Pure travertine is white,
colors and patterns, including streaking and stripes. The for pathways. Note the color darkens when wet. Various surface but impurities add color. The characteristic pitting is caused by
color darkens when wet. Reclaimed sandstone paving is a less textures are available, including rough cut (visible saw marks), gases trapped in the molten rock. The best quality travertine
expensive option. Sealing is advisable. Available as composite. sandblasted, and polished (called honed). Consider sealing. has smaller holes that are infilled and polished.
$$–$$$ ww e gold, jade, rose, gray, white, black $$–$$$ ww e black, blue-gray, green, purple $$–$$$ ww e white, pink, yellow, brown

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
Our purchasing power as consumers can have a huge
impact on the environment, especially when choosing
materials for the garden.
• Wood and stone that’s been transported halfway
around the world has a large carbon footprint, so
first check what’s available from local quarries. If
you do decide to use imported stone, check that
it isn’t produced by child laborers.
• Soft- and hardwoods should be from a sustainably
managed source. Look for accreditation from a
Yorkstone “Green” cement recognized authority, such as the Forest Stewardship
Most of Britain’s cities are paved with this hardwearing The chance to employ greener, cleaner landscaping materials Council (FSC), or try to use recycled wood. The
fine-grained sandstone. The color, which darkens when wet, is an exciting prospect. This type of cement decomposes air Greenpeace Good Wood Guide will also help you
depends on where it was quarried in Yorkshire. Reclaimed pollutants by means of a photocatalytic reaction, and is used to make an informed decision.
and composite paving slabs with a non-slip, riven surface make composite stone. When mixed with recycled granite, it
• Low-solvent or water-based paints and wood
(as shown) are available. Consider sealing. produces a hardwearing surface that helps improve air quality.
preservatives are a responsible choice.
$$–$$$ ww e gray, black, brown, green or red tinged $$ ww e various
354/355 Plant and materials guide
MATERIALS GUIDE

Surfaces

Patio kit Flooring kit Metal grille

Used as a centerpiece for a patio or path, this stylized sun Composite stone flooring kits allow you to experiment with Parallel steel tracks (one shown here) follow the route of car
comes in kit form ready to fit together like a jigsaw. Other different textures, while maintaining uniformity of color and tires on a driveway, creating a modern, strong, safe surface for
popular designs include fish, butterflies, and geometrical material. What looks like a complex pattern of blocks, parking; when the car isn’t there, the ground cover beneath is
patterns. Usually made from hardwearing molded composite cobblestones, and slivers of stone is, in fact, a much simpler revealed. Commission a specialist blacksmith or metalworker
stone, it can add a decorative note to a patio. collection of molded slabs, which are quick and easy to lay. to make a similar stainless steel grille to suit your needs.
$$ ww e various stone colors $–$$ ww e various stone colors $$$ ww e shiny metallic

Wooden decking tiles Wooden decking Plastic decking

Choose decking tiles with battens attached on the underside Hardwoods, such as balau (shown) and oak, are a popular Made from recycled waste, plastic decking is weatherproof,
and lay them straight on to a level concrete or asphalt surface. choice for decks. They are warp- and weather-resistant and UV stable, rot-proof, and low maintenance. Construction is the
Made from softwood, they are lightweight and ideal for roof more durable than softwoods. Most decks, however, are made same as when using wood, the difference is in the aftercare.
terraces, balconies, and patios. When they start to wear, just from pressure-treated softwoods, which are less costly and also It needs no oiling or re-treating, just an occasional hose down.
lift the damaged squares and replace like carpet tiles. available as kits. If well maintained, they should last 20 years. There is a good range of color and texture.
$ w e oil or stain tiles $–$$$ ww e oil or stain $–$$ ww e “natural” wood, green, black, blue

Wooden ties Concrete ties Bark

Old railway ties are no longer available; saturated in creosote Made from cast concrete, these composite ties are amazingly Bark provides a springy surface for paths and play areas. Fine
and bitumen, they are now considered a health risk. You can realistic and very hardwearing. They come in varying lengths shredded is kinder on children’s knees, but will break down and
buy untreated timber lookalikes (often oak) that are just as (minimizing cutting) but, like paving slabs, the depth is need replacing more frequently than coarse chipped bark. You
heavy to lift and as hard to cut—you will need a chain saw. consistent, making them easy to lay on a bed of mortar. The can lay it directly on soil (it acts as a soil improver), but for best
Good for stepping stones, but slippery when wet. wood-grain pattern provides a sure grip in wet conditions. results, spread it over a weed-suppressing membrane.
$–$$ ww e natural wood, could be stained $$ ww e “natural” wood $ w e usually brown; dyed chips are also available
$$$ high cost $$ medium cost $ low cost ww high durability w low durability e color options

Gravel Cobblestones Slate chips

Gravel comes in a wide range of colors and sizes and is a tough, Laying a cobblestone path—whether patterned or plain—is a If you use slate chips on a well-trodden path, they will crack and
quick-to-lay surface for paths and drives. Spread in a thick painstaking exercise, but, if you have the patience, the result is slowly break down. Renewing them every few years, however,
layer over a weed-suppressing membrane, or, to stop it spilling worth the effort. Set the cobblestones on a bed of mortar, then is a small price to pay for the beautiful color, that provides a foil
everywhere, use a honeycomb gravel containment mat. brush a dry mortar mix into the joints for a hardwearing surface. for edging plants. Lay over a weed-suppressing membrane.
Guests—welcome or not—are announced by loud crunching. Use only smooth rounded stones; others are hard to walk on. Sharp pieces of slate are not child- or pet-friendly.
$ ww e wide range of stone colors $ ww e white, creams, grays, blacks, browns $ w e gray with green, blue, purple, or plum tones

Paddlestones Self-binding gravel Decorative shell

Usually large pieces of slate, paddlestones are tumbled to Soil and small stone particles are usually washed off gravel, Shells are much too fragile to walk on, and should only be
round off the edges. In Japanese-style gardens they are used but in this form they are retained and help bind the gravel used as decorative surfaces. They are a waste product from
as decorative paths designed to resemble a winding river bed. together to form a more solid surface. Tamp down a thick layer the shellfish industry, and have a lovely light-reflective quality.
Smooth and flat, they are fairly easy to walk on, but they are over a solid bed of graded base to form a hardwearing surface Lay them over a weed-suppressing membrane and use them
best reserved for areas of light traffic. that is easy to walk on. in Mediterranean-style or seaside gardens as a foil for plants.
$$ ww e gray with green, blue, purple, or plum tones $–$$ ww e gray, gold, plum, red, green $ w e cream, gray, pink, soft brown

Shredded rubber Glass pebbles Colored aggregates

As a decorative mulch, shredded rubber can look quite chic. Its These glass pebbles form a colorful, light-reflective surface, Usually made from glass fragments that have been tumbled to
spongy quality also makes it ideal for play surfaces, but it does but, be warned, they are easy to slip on when wet and should remove the razor-sharp edges, aggregates can be used between
have quite a distinctive odor (that deters cats) and is therefore only be used as a decorative detail on paths or patios. Lay them plants, or for secondary paths—they are not suitable for play
unsuitable for areas close to seating and dining tables. It does on a bed of mortar, brushing a dry mortar mix into the joints. areas. Lay the aggregate over a weed-suppressing membrane
not rot, so won’t need replacing. Hose them down occasionally to retain their lustre. and hose down occasionally to refresh the colors.
$ ww e gray-black $–$$$ ww e various $ ww e various
356/357 Plant and materials guide
MATERIALS GUIDE

Walls and railings

Brick Weathered stone Mortared stone

Acting like a storage heater, brick walls absorb the sun’s heat Structures made from aged and weathered natural stone look Rough-hewn stone forms a structure that is as much a work
during the day and release it at night to create a mild particularly effective in the gardens of period homes, especially of art as it is a wall. “Gluing” it together with mortar makes it
microclimate. While walls make a garden feel protected, when they match the house walls. Stone that has to be worked easier to build than a dry stone wall, where each stone has to fit
permeable screens are actually better at filtering winds or shaped for a wall will add to the cost. Reconstituted (or neatly within a specific space. Top with coping stones and point
(see p.57). Brick is cheaper than stone and just as durable. composite) stone made from concrete is a more affordable option. between the joints to prevent water and frost damage.
$ ww e yellow, red, blue-gray, mottled $–$$ ww e various natural stone colors $$ ww e various natural stone colors

Dry stone wall Gabion Knapped flint

The materials (a ton of stone per cubic foot), skill, and time Rocks, cobblestones, bricks, or tiles crammed into metal Popular as a building material, flint is a tough silica that
required to build a dry stone wall make it an expensive, though gabions, which are then wired together, create an instant, fairly forms as “nodules” in chalk beds. Here, the flints have been
beautiful, option. Two parallel walls, built on foundation stones, inexpensive “dry stone” wall. The weight and strength of “knapped,” or split in half, and set in lime putty (which retains
are bound together with an infill of rubble; the meticulous the filled cages makes them ideal for retaining, as well as a degree of flexibility and is resistant to cracking) to form a
placement of the stones negates the need for mortar. decorative, walls. Gabions come in various sizes. decorative facing on a brick or block wall.
$$–$$$ ww e various stone colors $ ww e gray metal; depends on the filling $$–$$$ ww e black and white

Mosaic wall Screen wall Shell mosaic

A mixture of terra-cotta and glazed tiles, cobblestones, blocks, Concrete blocks offer the strength of brick without cutting Mosaics are a weatherproof decoration for the garden. Here, a
and bricks, this wall is both colorful and tactile. In practical out the light. Prices are similar, too, but walls made from low retaining wall has been brightened up with a collection of
terms, the materials are set into a layer of rendering (a mix blocks are quicker to build. Use them for low patio walls, shells, fossils, and stones. The pieces are set into a thin skim
of cement and sand) covering a brick or block wall. For a neat or to top an existing wall, adding extra height and privacy. of still-damp render (cement and sand). Once dried, a coat of
finish, smooth out the pointing in between each piece. Their open structure makes them effective windbreaks. water-based varnish helps protect the mosaic.
$–$$ ww e as colorful as you wish to make it $ ww e cement gray unless you paint them $ w e various, depending on the materials used
$$$ high cost $$ medium cost $ low cost ww high durability w low durability e color options

Shuttered concrete Rendered walls Glass panels

For a textured finish, concrete is poured into molds made Applying a skim of render (a mix of cement and sand) is a Surrounding a patio, balcony, or raised deck with glass panels
from timber shuttering. Walls taller than knee height need relatively quick—and inexpensive—way to fix up rough block provides a degree of shelter without blocking the view. For
foundations and steel reinforcement rods for strength. Red walls or crumbling brick. Once dry, you have a smooth blank safety and strength use toughened glass fixed to sturdy posts.
sand in the concrete mix gives a buff color; yellow sand the canvas for applying exterior masonry paints. These come in a Treat the glass with a silicon-based rain-repellent coating to
usual gray; for stronger colors, use concrete dyes or paint. range of colors, from subtle to shocking—like this pink. make it easier to clean and to prevent smears.
$ ww e buff or gray; various if using dyes or paint $ ww e various $$ w e clear

Aluminum panels Wooden block wall Wooden pallets

Hide an ugly fence or view and provide an unfussy backdrop Building a wall using random materials is a skilful job; like Use pallets to make a “wildlife wall,” wiring them together
for planting with powder-coated aluminum panels. The a 3-D jigsaw puzzle, each piece must fit neatly with its neighbor. and packing the gaps with moss, wool, and grass (nesting
coating is fade- and flake-resistant. At night, treat them Here, cedarwood offcuts and squares of rusted steel have been material for birds), and crocks, rotting wood, and hollow canes
like a projectionist’s screen, creating shadow play with glued and screwed together and mounted on a sheet of marine (homes for insects and amphibians). Usually made from pine,
spotlights. For a cheaper option, paint sheets of marine ply. ply, which, in turn, is attached to a solid wall. better quality pallets are available from specialist suppliers.
$–$$ w – ww e various $–$$ w – ww e various $ w e natural wood shades

Corrugated iron Iron railings Custom ironwork

A maintenance-free fencing option, corrugated iron has one Cast-iron railings make an attractive divider in a garden. Many blacksmiths specialize in decorative metal work—this
drawback—sharp edges. To cover these, use protective metal After a few years, however, they will need repainting. While whimsical fence made from steel horseshoes is a custom
edging strips, and fix panels to sturdy posts to hold them steady “no-paint,” plastic-coated metal seems a good idea, the commission. The shoes, which are mounted on horizontal
in gusting winds. Galvanized metal (shown here) has a matte coating eventually becomes brittle and chips off allowing metal bars, are painted to protect against rust and make an
finish, while metal paints can add a splash of color. rust to get a hold. eye-catching feature, as well as a functional boundary.
$–$$ ww e metallic gray or, if painted, various $–$$ ww e usually black or dark green $$–$$$ ww e usually black, especially if wrought iron
358/359 Plant and materials guide
MATERIALS GUIDE

Screens and gates

Shiplap Featheredge Hit and miss

This is one of the cheapest and most popular ready-made Ready-made panels come in various sizes, but the design While offering privacy, the alternating panels of hit and miss
fencing options, though not the most durable. Even though the (vertical softwood timbers nailed on to horizontal rails at the fencing are wind permeable, making it ideal for exposed sites.
panels are pre-treated, it is best to apply a preservative every top and bottom) makes it easy to construct. If fixed to strong Attached to sturdy posts, the fence is unlikely to blow down,
few years. The larch strips often warp, leaving small gaps. post supports, the sturdy panels are good for boundaries. Best and the wood strips (fixed vertically or horizontally) are easy to
Available in standard fence panel sizes. given a coat of preservative every few years, even if pre-treated. replace. Buy ready-made or construct panels yourself.
$ w e often pre-stained orange, but will tone down $ ww e often pre-stained orange, but will tone down $ ww e often pre-stained orange, but will tone down

Chevron panel Trellis panel Slatted wood

Decorative panels are not usually strong enough for use as Another hit and miss variant, but this time with an inset of This fence creates a contemporary, durable screen that allows
a boundary fence, but this chevron design, a variation on the trellis down the center. It would make a good windbreak, but both light and wind to pass through. Use it to divide up the
sturdy hit and miss (see above right), is suitable. It is also ideal the lack of privacy could be a problem for a boundary. One garden or to mask garbage cans or a shed; it also doubles as a
for dividing up a garden into rooms, or screening an ugly view, way to mask the gaps would be to train a climber through plant support for climbers. Paint or wood stain will help protect
perhaps where the compost cans are stored. the trellis, thereby creating a colorful display of flowers. the timber, and introduce color into your design.
$$ ww e usually stained a subtle tan $$ ww e usually stained a subtle tan $ w e natural wood or painted

Picket fence Oak panel Chestnut paling

This simple wood fence has rustic charm, yet it also works This made-to-order fence is perfect for a country-style front Often seen on farms, this fencing is naturally rot-resistant and
well with a modern property. Leave it natural, or paint it to yard, where you want the world to admire your planting design. perfect for a subtle, rustic barrier between a country garden
match your house or planting design. Its open structure and The hardwood has a beautiful appearance and is best left and the natural landscape beyond. The wood pieces come on a
low profile makes it more of a visual boundary than a barrier unpainted, but a clear oil will preserve its color; over time, roll and are linked, at the top and bottom, by a double row of
to keep out unwanted visitors. Available ready-made. if left untreated, oak develops lovely silver hues. twisted wires. This fence is fixed to wood rails for extra strength.
$$ w e natural wood or painted $–$$$ ww e natural wood $ ww e natural wood
$$$ high cost $$ medium cost $ low cost ww high durability w low durability e color options

Willow hurdle Willow screen Bamboo/reed screen

Surprisingly robust, willow hurdles make effective windbreaks. If you love the look of willow but want a more contemporary Ideal for when you want an instant screen to block out an
They can be woven to order, or are available in standard panel look, choose a framed willow screen—it provides a neat yet ugly view. You could also use it to make a roof for a pergola.
sizes. Willow makes a beautiful backdrop for naturalistic or natural backdrop for planting. Good for privacy around the For extra strength, attach it to an existing fence—it works
cottage-style plantings, or fix it to the top of a wall to increase patio, the screen is clamped into a timber frame for extra especially well on chain-link. It’s not suitable for exposed sites,
privacy. Protect with linseed oil. strength, but the size range is limited. Treat with linseed oil. and it will start to deteriorate after a few seasons.
$$ w e golden brown $ w e golden brown $ w e soft browns

Formal hedge Fedge Living willow

While slow growers, such as yew and beech, may take a few The backbone of this lovely hedge is a chain-link fence with Is it an art installation or is it a screen? Both really, and that
years to thicken up, quick-fix conifers require endless cutting. climbing plants grown through it. Results are not instant, but is the fun of woven willow structures. Plant the young willow
It’s tempting to buy established plants for instant results; but the low price makes this a good choice for a long boundary “whips” in winter or early spring in a sunny spot, then come
young “whips” are cheaper and quickly catch up. Plant thorny in an informal or wildlife garden. Plant a mixture of prickly summer, you can start weaving. To stop your screen maturing
Berberis, Pyracantha, and Rosa rugosa to keep out intruders. plants for security, and flowering climbers for color. into a forest, prune back to the framework in late winter.
$ ww e various $ ww e various $ w e golden stems and lush green foliage

Gate in a fence Custom gate Wooden door

Choosing a gate that closely matches the fence panels gives This spiral metal gate was made to order, but there are An arched wooden door set in a stone or brick wall is a design
a visually unbroken line for a crisp, clean design. If you can, plenty of lovely designs available ready-made. Set between classic. Peeling paint and rusting fittings will only add to its
position the gate in a gap between two whole fence two sturdy steel posts, it makes a beautiful focal point in a charm. This door was custom-made to fit the space, but, if you
panels—reducing the size of some panels, such as country-style hedge. Regularly trim the foliage away from are building a wall from scratch, it is worth checking out the
featheredge, involves complicated carpentry. the hinges and the catch. sizes of standard doors before you start.
$ w e natural wood or painted $–$$$ w e wrought iron, rusting steel, painted metal $$ w e natural wood or painted
360/361 Plant and materials guide
MATERIALS GUIDE

Structures and storage

Contemporary garden room Garden office/studio Traditional garden room

These garden rooms range from compact, relatively inexpensive Usually made from wood, you can work in peace away from Built straight on to the house but surrounded by greenery,
structures to luxury state-of-the-art buildings that include the the hubbub of family life in these buildings. Ideal as an art garden rooms allow you to enjoy the outdoors whatever the
latest technology and equipment. Most are constructed from studio, workshop, or home office. For comfort and to protect weather. A timber and brick construction with an insulated
timber and glass, with heating and cooling systems, and an books, and so on, opt for insulation and a heater equipped with sheet metal roof makes the room more usable year-round than
electricity supply connected to the house mains. a thermostat. Install blinds, and a lock for security. the average glass conservatory, though not so light and airy.
$–$$$ w – ww e natural wood, steel, glass $$–$$$ ww e natural wood, painted or stained $$$ ww e brick, stone, rendered walls; stained wood

Colonial-style gazebo Garden shed Green roof

Relatively small, this type of gazebo, made from wood, can be DIY kit or pre-assembled, a shed is a must for anyone needing A shed roof may need shoring up with extra timbers for it to
slotted in almost anywhere, for example, next to a pool or extra storage or space for a hobby. Can be painted or stained take the weight of a planted roof. Before laying the sedum
surrounded by pots of subtropical plants on a deck. Offers shaded a wide range of colors. Sheds made from ship lap (overlapping matting and moisture-retentive growing medium you will
seating for drinks or afternoon snack. Usually wooden; some wood) panels may warp; tongue-and-groove models are more need to protect the roof with polythene sheeting. Green
designs are more weatherproof with removable slatted sides. expensive but superior in quality. roofs provide good insulation and increase biodiversity.
$$–$$$ w e wood shades and muted period colors $–$$ w e natural wood, painted or stained $$ ww e sedums and other succulents provide color

Lean-to greenhouse Obelisk Willow arch

Space-saving design. Best for south- or west-facing walls, which A sturdy wooden obelisk (this traditional design is topped Easy to construct and adaptable for the smallest garden, use
act like storage heaters releasing warmth at night. Standard and with a finial) is a feature in its own right, adding extra height long “rods” of living willow (plant in winter) or buy dried and
custom-made models available in wood or aluminum, with glass to a border as well as providing support for climbers. DIY or pre-soak to make them flexible and workable. Push into the
or polycarbonate (the latter offers good insulation and safety). pre-assembled models; they are made from wood or metal ground, weave together, then tie the tops to form an arch. If
Cheap tubular steel frame models with plastic covers available. (the latter available in more decorative designs). the willow starts to sprout, prune it back in late winter.
$–$$$ w – ww e white/dark green, cedar or painted $–$$ w – ww e natural wood, painted or stained $ w e natural willow
$$$ high cost $$ medium cost $ low cost ww high durability w low durability e color options

Arbor seat Modern arbor with brazier Traditional pergola

Self-assembly kits range in price and quality. Custom-built and This designer piece with a Moorish flavor incorporates bench Easy to construct for a competent woodworker. Substantial
corner models are available. In a sunny spot, the roof provides seating and a metal brazier—perfect for entertaining on uprights and horizontal supports can carry heavy climbers, such
shade. Trellis sides and/or roof are ideal for scented climbers. summer evenings, the structure is a sculptural focus for as grapevines, roses, and wisteria. Creates dappled shade for
Usually constructed in wood, but also available in wrought iron a modern or period garden. A canvas awning would provide a pathway or seating area. Flat-pack timber kits, wrought iron,
or a wood/metal mix. extra weather proofing. and custom models also available.
$–$$$ w – ww e natural wood, painted or stained $$$ ww e natural wood, painted or stained $$–$$$ ww e natural wood, painted or stained

Folly Playhouse Children’s play area

A focal point, especially for period gardens. May be any design, From the simplest wooden box to a two-story chalet with The best play structures are made to order and erected on
but often hinting at a specific point in history. Examples include windowboxes, owning a playhouse is every child’s dream. site. When buying—especially self-assembly—look for
mock Gothic ruins, “ancient” stone circles, classical temples, Custom; mid-price, self-assembly; and cheaper click-together structures with appropriate safety certifications. Needs safe
rustic buildings, and grottoes. DIY construction possible, for plastic are available. Ensure the base is stable. Paints and flooring material, in other words, at least 6 in (15 cm) depth of
example, with reclaimed masonry. fixings must be child safe. play bark or a bonded-rubber surface.
$–$$$ ww e depends on construction materials $–$$$ w – ww e natural wood; child-safe paints $$–$$$ ww e natural wood; child-safe paints/stains

Storage/tool box Recycling storage Garden furniture storage

A spacious mini shed for tools and lawn mowers, garden A great way to disguise unsightly garbage cans and plastic This bench seat opens to reveal a weatherproof box for storing
furniture, or bicycles, can be made from panels of larch lap recycling boxes in a front yard. Wide-opening doors give good loose cushions, throws, and covers from garden furniture. Wood
fencing bolted together, or bought ready-made (usually with access. Make yourself or buy ready-made in wood, plastic, and plastic ready-made models available. Place next to the
a felted roof). It only needs to be as high as your tallest tool. trellis screening, or even woven willow. This one has a green patio for convenience. Also useful as a toy box or compact tool
Tuck away in a corner and paint green to blend in. roof, further increasing its eco credentials. storage for courtyard gardens.
$–$$ ww e natural wood, painted or stained $–$$ w – ww e paint/stain to blend in or match house $–$$ ww e natural wood, painted or stained
362/363 Plant and materials guide
MATERIALS GUIDE

Containers

Terra-cotta clay pots Terra-cotta-style trough Glazed ceramic

Today’s clay pots are mostly machine-molded rather than Versatile clay can be molded to almost any shape; but take Glazing a clay pot transforms it. During the kiln firing, the
hand-thrown, but you can still buy handmade pots from a good look, could this be plastic? These days it is hard to glaze melts to coat the pot in a thin layer of glassy material.
specialist potteries or antique shops. The higher the tell the two apart. While replicating the look of clay, plastic As a result, the pot becomes stronger, frost- and waterproof,
temperature of the firing, the greater the frost resistance— is lighter, frostproof, and usually cheaper. It’s also better if it is glazed inside and out, and, depending on the glaze, more
and cost. Clay is porous, and pots dry out quickly in hot sun. at keeping compost and plant roots moist during hot dry spells. colorful. Match your pots with planting for a unified display.
$–$$ w e soft orange and sandy yellow clay $–$$ w e clay colors or, if plastic, a huge color range $–$$ ww e huge color range

Water feature Strawberry pot Stone urn

For water features, such as, bubble fountains and patio ponds, Hand-thrown or molded (the cheaper option) clay strawberry Whether empty or planted up, stone urns have a classic,
choose pots that are glazed (or at least glazed inside) to pots, with their “balcony” planting shelves, are also ideal for timeless quality. You can find originals in reclamation yards
minimize water loss. This urn is set on a cobble-covered herbs. With this type of pot, big is best as the increased volume at a price; but composite stone (in other words, cast concrete)
metal grille over a reservoir; water is pumped up through of compost prevents the plants drying out too quickly. May not is a more affordable and widely available option. Stand an urn
the drainage hole in the base to overflow back into the tank. be frostproof. Also available in plastic. on a plinth and it instantly becomes a focal point.
$–$$ w e huge color range if glazed $–$$ w e usually terra-cotta $$–$$$ ww e natural stone colors

Cast concrete Terrazzo Weathering steel

Strong and cheap, concrete is a versatile material for making Hardwearing, easy to clean, and very tactile, terrazzo is the Never has rust looked so good. Weathering steel, of which
planters, like this rough-cast bowl. Containers made from ideal material for contemporary containers. Granite or marble Cor-Ten is the best known brand, is a high-strength steel alloy.
concrete are available in both contemporary and classic chips are bonded with cement, then polished to create a smooth It is designed to develop a layer of rust that, ironically, helps to
designs, and, because they are very heavy, they make a surface—a technique that has been around since Roman times. protect the metal underneath. Strong and durable, it is perfect
good choice for top heavy plants, such as trees and shrubs. Lightweight polyester terrazzo planters are available. for long-term plantings, and, as here, water features.
$ ww e concrete can be dyed almost any color $–$$ ww e marble and granite grays, white and black $$$ ww e rusty orange
$$$ high cost $$ medium cost $ low cost ww high durability w low durability e color options

Powder-coated metal Galvanized metal Lead planter

A much tougher, non-flaking finish than paint, powder coating The mottled patina of galvanized metal is created by “hot Lead is a soft, malleable metal that is easy to work. This planter
(a mix of pigments and resin) is baked on to the surface of dipping”—a chemical process that coats steel and iron with is made from a sheet of lead hammered into shape; the raised
metal. Available in a huge range of colors and finishes, the rust-resistant zinc. Planters come in a range of styles and sizes; pattern is formed by pressing it into a mold. Lead is toxic and
coating inhibits rust. To protect the surface, clean with soapy most are lightweight and single skinned. In winter, protect plant shouldn’t come into contact with food plants. Glass fiber
water and a soft dry cloth, and avoid abrasive solvents. roots by wrapping the container with plastic bubblewrap. lead-style planters are a “food-safe” option.
$–$$ ww e huge color range $ ww e mottled matte gray $$–$$$ w e gray

Wooden barrel Wooden trough Versailles planter

Traditionally made from oak, the wooden pieces (called staves) Lightweight and insulating in winter, this rustic planter is Relatively light for the volume of compost they contain,
are shaped to fit tightly together and held in place with metal made from woven hazel twigs set in a timber frame. For these planters were originally designed for the orange trees at
hoops. You may be lucky enough to find half wine or whisky longevity, choose pressure-treated timber, and check that the Versailles so they could be brought indoors over winter. Lining
barrels; cheaper replicas are also available. Best lined with planter is lined with plastic (with drainage holes at the bottom) them with plastic extends the life of both hard- and softwood
plastic or butyl, especially if using as a patio pond. to prevent compost and water leaking through the sides. planters. Good quality plastic imitations are also available.
$–$$ w e wood with black metal bands $ w e natural wood $–$$ w e natural wood or, if painted or plastic, various

Old boots Recycled kitchenware Car and truck tires

The more holes in the soles, the better the drainage! Fill the Old colanders, chipped teapots, saucepans that have lost Get extra mileage out of old tires by giving them a splash of
boots with compost, packing it firmly into the toe, and plant up. their handles—almost any old household vessel has planting paint and a new lease on life as a raised bed. Place the tires
Be warned that even if you have enormous feet, boots still hold potential for a sustainable garden design. Kitchen cupboards straight on to the soil and fill with compost (line them first with
relatively little compost and plants are at risk of dehydrating in are an especially rich hunting ground. You may need to drill plastic if you’re growing food). The rubber absorbs the sun’s
hot sun, so consider using water-retaining gel. holes for drainage or go easy on the watering. heat and warms up the compost for early plantings.
$ w e various fashion colors $ w e depends on your crockery and cookware $ ww e black (brightened up with a splash of color)
RESOURCES
366/367 Resources
UNDERSTANDING HARDINESS RATINGS

Understanding hardiness ratings

All plants in the Plant Guide (pp.292–351) have been assigned RHS hardiness ratings, using one of nine
categories – H1a to H7 – determined by the lowest temperature range the plant is likely to withstand, along
with various other factors, such as the relative exposure of the planting location. These ratings serve as a
general guide to growing conditions and should be interpreted according to the table below. Bear in mind,
however, that they are guidelines only, and many other factors will affect a plant’s overall hardiness.

RATING TEMPERATURE RANGE CATEGORY DEFINITION

H1a warmer than 15°C (59°F) Heated greenhouse – tropical Grow as a house plant or under glass all year round.

H1b 10–15°C (50–59°F) Heated greenhouse – subtropical Can be grown outside in summer in hotter, sunny, and
sheltered locations, but generally performs better as a
house plant or under glass all year round.

H1c 5–10°C (41–50°F) Heated greenhouse – warm Can be grown outside in summer throughout most of
temperate the UK while daytime temperatures are high enough
to promote growth.

H2 1–5°C (34–41°F) Cool or frost-free greenhouse Tolerant of low temperatures, but will not survive being
frozen. Except in frost-free, inner-city areas or coastal
extremities, requires greenhouse conditions in winter.
Can be grown outside once risk of frost is over.

H3 -5–1°C (23–34°F) Unheated greenhouse/ Hardy in coastal and relatively mild parts of the UK,
mild winter except in hard winters and at risk from sudden, early
frosts. May be hardy elsewhere with wall shelter or a
good microclimate. Can often survive with some artificial
protection in winter.

H4 -10– -5°C (14–23°F) Average winter Hardy throughout most of the UK apart from inland
valleys, at altitude, and central/northerly locations. May
suffer foliage damage and stem dieback in harsh winters
in cold gardens. Plants in pots are more vulnerable.

H5 -15– -10°C (5–14°F) Cold winter Hardy in most places throughout the UK, even in
severe winters. May not withstand open or exposed
sites or central/northerly locations. Many evergreens
will suffer foliage damage and plants in pots will be
at increased risk.

H6 -20– -15°C (-4–5°F) Very cold winter Hardy in all of the UK and northern Europe. Many plants
grown in containers will be damaged unless given some
artificial protection in winter.

H7 colder than -20°C (-4°F) Very hardy Hardy in the severest European continental climates,
including exposed upland locations in the UK.
Suppliers and useful contacts
When ordering decoration or a structure for your garden, it is important to research suppliers and styles
carefully, and ensure that you choose someone whose work fits in with your design. Take accurate
measurements of your space and plan placement carefully before commissioning a bespoke piece.
Request quotes from several suppliers – the list below will provide a starting point for your enquiries
– and, before you place your order, check that your chosen designer will deliver directly to you.

BUILDINGS Green Studios FURNITURE Go Modern

01923 205 090 DESIGNERS 020 7731 9540
Breeze House green-studios.com gomodern.co.uk
AND SUPPLIERS
01538 398488
breezehouse.co.uk The Qube Green Meadow
Alexander Rose
01604 785 786 Furniture Ltd
01444 258 931
The Caulfield Company theqube.co.uk 01386 584918
alexander-rose.co.uk
0113 387 3118 greenmeadows-s.co.uk
caulfieldcompany.co.uk Room in the Garden Barbed Limited
01730 816 881 Green Oak Furniture
020 8878 1994
Contemporary Garden roominthegarden.co.uk 01635 281786
barbed.co.uk
Rooms greenoakfurniture.co.uk
contemporarygardenrooms. Riverside Shepherd Huts Barlow Tyrie
co.uk 01527 821 848 Ingarden
01376 557600
01952 825 630 riversideshepherdhuts.co.uk 01732 463 409
teak.com
ingarden.co.uk
Crown Pavilions Scotts of Thrapston Bramblecrest
01491 817 849 01832 732 366 Mosaic & Stone
bramblecrest.com 01342 892792
crownpavilions.com scottsofthrapston.co.uk
mosaicandstone.co.uk
Charlie Davidson Studio
Dunster House 00 46 705 494 721
01234 272 445 Myburgh Designs
charlie-davidson.com 01428 741 768
dunsterhouse.co.uk FENCING
myburghdesigns.com
AND WALLS Cox & Cox
Garden Affairs 0330 333 2123 New Dawn Furniture
01225 774 566 Bamboo Supplies Limited coxandcox.co.uk 01243 375535
gardenaffairs.co.uk 01825 890 041 newdawnfurniture.co.uk
ukbamboosupplies.com Design and Landscape
The Garden Escape Outer Eden
designandlandscape.co.uk
0800 917 7726 Elegant Gardens 07961 443 407
outer-eden.co.uk
thegardenescape.co.uk 020 7228 2443 The Garden Furniture
elegantgardens.net Centre Ltd Panik
The Garden Office 01564 793 652 01908 307 020
01296 328 555 Forest gardenfurniturecentre.co.uk panik-design.com
thegardenoffice.co.uk 0333 003 0026
forestgarden.co.uk Garpa PJH Designs
Garden Lodges 01273 486 400 01440 788 949
0800 043 4821 Grange pjhgardenfurniture.com
garpa.co.uk
gardenlodges.co.uk 01952 588 088
grange-fencing.com Riverco Trading
Gloster 01538 361 393
Green Retreats Jacksons 00 49 413 128 7530 riverco.co.uk
01296 325 777 0800 408 2234 gloster.com
greenretreats.co.uk jacksons-fencing.co.uk
368/369 Resources
SUPPLIERS AND USEFUL CONTACTS

Sitting Spiritually Stoneage Burncoose Nurseries Mickfield Hostas

01297 443 084 020 8362 1666 01209 860 316 01449 711 576
sittingspiritually.co.uk stoneagearchitectural.com burncoose.co.uk mickfieldhostas.co.uk
Tristan Cockerill Stonemarket Claire Austin Hardy Plants Notcutts
07917 320 572
0345 302 0603 (herbaceous perennials 0344 879 4166
tristancockerill.com
stonemarket.co.uk specialist) notcutts.co.uk
Twentytwentyone 01686 670 342
020 7837 1900 claireaustin-hardyplants.co.uk Peter Beales Roses
twentytwentyone.com 01953 454 707
LIGHTING Coblands classicroses.co.uk
DESIGNERS 01452 742 445
LANDSCAPE AND SUPPLIERS coblands.co.uk Plantagogo
01270 820 335
MATERIALS Garden Lighting By Design Crocus plantagogo.com
0845 601 5763 01344 578 000
Ashfield Group gardenlightingbydesign.co.uk crocus.co.uk Raymond Evison Clematis
01502 528 877 01481 245 942
ashfieldgroup.com Lighting for Gardens David Austin Roses raymondevisonclematis.com
01462 486 777 01902 376 300
Brett lightingforgardens.com davidaustinroses.com Taylors Clematis
01227 829 000 01302 700 716
brett.co.uk Lighting Styles Fibrex Nurseries taylorsclematis.co.uk
01780 767 617 01789 720 788
CED Limited lightingstyles.co.uk fibrex.co.uk Tendercare
01708 867 237 01895 835 544
ced.ltd.uk Moonlight Design Hardy’s Cottage Garden tendercare.co.uk
020 8925 8639 Plants
Jewson moonlightdesign.co.uk 01256 896 533 Whitewater Nursery and
02476 608 235 hardys-plants.co.uk Plant Centre
jewson.co.uk 0118 932 6487
Hilliers Garden Centres whitewaterplantcentre.co.uk
Marshalls PLANT SUPPLIERS 01794 368 944
0370 120 7474 hillier.co.uk Wisley Plant Centre
marshalls.co.uk Architectural Plants 01483 211 113
(specialists in large hardy Hopleys Plants rhs.org.uk/wisleyplantcentre
Natural Stone and exotic plants) 01279 842 509
01904 488 605 01798 879 213 hopleys.co.uk
naturalstone.co.uk architecturalplants.com
Kelways POTS AND
Organicstone Barcham (container tree 01458 250 521 CONTAINERS
01452 411 991 specialist) kelways.co.uk
organicstone.com 01353 720 950 Cadix UK
barcham.co.uk Knoll Gardens (specialists in 01440 713 704
Ormiston Wire grasses and perennials) cadix.co.uk
020 8569 7287 Big Plant Nursery 01202 873 931
ormiston-wire.co.uk 01903 891 466 knollgardens.co.uk Iota
bigplantnursery.co.uk 01934 522 617
Silverland Stone Majestic Trees iotagarden.com
01932 569 277 Bloms Bulbs 01582 843 881
silverlandstone.co.uk 01234 709 099 majestictrees.co.uk
blomsbulbs.com
Italian Terrace David Harber Michael Speller Wasserpflanzenkulturen
01284 789 666 01235 859 300 07930 480 347 Eberhard Schuster
italianterrace.co.uk davidharber.co.uk michaelspeller.com 00 49 386 322 2705
seerosenforum.de
Original Stone Troughs The Garden Gallery Surrey Sculpture Society
0113 2841 184 01794 301 144 surreysculpture.org.uk World of Water
stonetroughs.co.uk gardengallery.uk.com 01580 243333
Neil Wilkin worldofwater.com
Urbis Design Haddonstone 01570 493 061
01759 373 839 01604 770 711 neilwilkin.com
urbisdesign.co.uk haddonstone.co.uk
Johnny Woodford USEFUL CONTACTS
Whichford Pottery Matt Maddocks 07770 758 393
01608 684 416 07717 623 429 johnnywoodford.co.uk Association of Professional
whichfordpottery.com maddocks.uk.com Landscapers (APL)
0118 930 3132
www.landscaper.org.uk
The Worm That Turned Suzie Marsh TRELLIS AND
0345 605 2505 01840 213 468 WOODEN
worm.co.uk suziemarshsculpture.co.uk British Association
STRUCTURES of Landscape Industries
John O’Connor (BALI)
07979 522 495 Handspring Design 0247 669 0333
SCULPTORS AND johnoconnorsculptor.co.uk 0114 221 7785 www.bali.org.uk
SCULPTURE, handspringdesign.co.uk
Institution of Lighting
AND ORNAMENT Hannah Peschar
Stuart Garden Architecture Engineers
SUPPLIERS 01306 627269
hannahpescharsculpture.com 01984 667 458 01788 576492
stuartgarden.com www.ile.org.uk
After the Antique
Les Botta
01366 327210 The Landscape Institute (LI)
00 33 562 085 497
aftertheantique.com 020 7299 4500
lesbotta.com WATER GARDENING www.landscapeinstitute.org
Contemporary Chandelier
Paul Margetts
Company Dorset Water Lily Company Royal Institute of Chartered
01562 730 003
01939 232 652 01935 891 668 Surveyors (RICS)
forging-ahead.co.uk
dorsetwaterlily.co.uk 0870 3331600
Chilstone www.rics.org
Patio & Terrace
01892 740 866 Paul Dyer
07970 906 224
chilstone.com 0800 919 833 Society of Garden
patioandterrace.co.uk
waterfeatures.co.uk Designers (SGD)
Martin Cook Studio 01989 566695
Red Dust Ceramics
01494 880 724 Fairwater www.sgd.org.uk
01434 344 923
martincookstudio.co.uk 01903 892 228
reddustceramics.co.uk
fairwater.co.uk
Rachel Dein
Mark Reed
07986 821 559 Lilies Water Gardens
01760 441 555
racheldein.com 01306 631 064
markreedsculpture.com
lilieswatergardens.co.uk
Ian Gill Sculpture
Lily Sawtell
01279 851 113 Penlan Perennials
01934 713 380
iangillsculpture.com 01239 842 260
lilysawtell.com
penlanperennials.co.uk
370/371 DESIGNERS’ DETAILS
Resources

Designers’ details
The publishers would like Adam Frost (UK) Catherine MacDonald Charlotte Rowe (UK)
to thank the following 01780 740 531 (Landform Consultants) (UK) 020 7602 0660
garden designers for their adamfrost.co.uk 01276 856 145 charlotterowe.com
contributions: landformconsultants.co.uk
Annie Guilfoyle (UK) Martin Royer (UK)
Acres Wild (UK) 01730 812 943 Paul Martin (ROI) 023 8025 1595
01403 891 084 annieguilfoyle.com paulmartindesigns.com martinroyer.co.uk
acreswild.co.uk
Bunny Guinness (UK) Steve Martino (U.S.) Studio Lasso/Haruko Seki
Marcus Barnett (UK) 01780 782 518 00 1 602 957 6150 (UK)
020 7736 9761 bunnyguinness.com stevemartino.net studiolasso.co.uk
marcusbarnett.com
Stephen Hall Claire Mee (UK) Andy Sturgeon (UK)
Jinny Blom (UK) (Giles Landscapes) (UK) 020 7385 8614 01273 672 575
020 7253 2100 01354 610 453 clairemee.co.uk andysturgeon.com
jinnyblom.com gileslandscapes.co.uk
Ian Kitson (UK) Jo Thompson (UK)
Declan Buckley (UK) Paul Hervey-Brookes (UK) 07742 301 799 020 7127 8438
020 7359 9076 0121 629 7797 iankitson.com jothompson-garden-design.
buckleydesignassociates.com paulherveybrookes.com co.uk
Philip Nixon (UK)
Maurice Butcher (UK) Tony Heywood and 01451 828 282 Renata Tilli (Brazil)
01428 712 362 Alison Condie (UK) philipnixondesign.com 00 55 115 095 3300
burlingtongardendesign.com 020 7723 0543
heywoodandcondie.com Piet Oudolf (NL) Bernard Trainor (U.S.)
George Carter (UK) 00 31 314 381 120 00 1 831 655 1414
01362 668 130 Kazuyuki Ishihara (Japan) oudolf.com bernardtrainor.com
georgecartergardens.co.uk 00 81 036 690 8787
kaza-hana.jp Gabriella Pape and Isabelle Cleve West (UK)
Tommaso del Buono and van Groeningen (Germany) 020 8977 3522
Paul Gazerwitz (UK) Sam Joyce (The Galium 00 49 308 322 0900 clevewest.com
020 7613 1122 Garden) (UK) koenigliche-gartenakademie.
delbuono-gazerwitz.co.uk 01291 621 767 de Nick Williams-Ellis (UK)
thegaliumgarden.co.uk 01386 700 883
Nicholas Dexter (UK) Christine Parsons nickwilliamsellis.co.uk
07947 600 4394 Maggie Judycki (Green (Hallam Garden Design) (UK)
ndg.de.com Themes, Inc.) (U.S.) 0114 230 2540 Ruth Wilmott (UK)
00 1 703 323 1046 hallamgardendesign.co.uk 020 8742 0849
Vladimir Djurovic (Lebanon) greenthemes.com ruthwillmott.com
00 96 1486 2444 Pip Probert
vladimirdjurovic.com Raymond Jungles (U.S.) (Outer Spaces Landscape Andrew Wilson (UK)
00 1 305 858 6777 and Garden Design) (UK) 020 3002 6601
raymondjungles.com 0151 346 2224 wmstudio.co.uk
Prof. Nigel Dunnett (UK)
outerspaces.org.uk
n.dunnett@sheffield.ac.uk
Arabella Lennox-Boyd (UK)
nigeldunnett.com
020 7931 9995 Sara Jane Rothwell (London
arabellalennoxboyd.com Garden Designer) (UK)
Andrew Fisher Tomlin and
07976 155 282
Dan Bowyer (UK)
londongardendesigner.com
020 8542 0683
andrewfishertomlin.com
Acknowledgments
The publisher would like to Felber: Design: Raymond Jungles Council, RHS Chelsea 2008 (tl); 32–33 Case-study: Design: Fran
thank the following for their kind Landscape Architect (tr). Undine Prohl: Dry Design (tr). Coulter, Owners: Jo & Paul Kelly.
permission to reproduce their 14 Charles Hawes: “Artificial 20 GAP Photos: Nicola 33 The Garden Collection:
photographs: Paradise”. Design: Catherine Stocken/ Design: Andy Liz Eddison/Design: Kay
(Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; Baas & Jean-Francis Delhay Sturgeon. Yamada, RHS Chelsea 2003 (br);
c-center; f-far; l-left; r-right; (France), Chaumont Harpur Garden Library: Marcus
21 GAP Photos: Jerry Harpur/
t-top) International Gardens Festival Harpur/Design: Justin Greer
Design: Scenic Blue, RHS
2003 (tl); MMGI: Marianne (fbr); MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
2 DK Images: Peter Anderson/ Chelsea 2007 (t).
Majerus/Claire Mee Designs Design: Jessica Duncan (cr);
Design: Cleve West, RHS (br); Marianne Majerus/Design: 22 The Garden Collection: Marianne Majerus/Design:
Chelsea Flower Show 2011. Andy Sturgeon, RHS Chelsea Nicola Stocken Tomkins (l). Wendy Booth, Leslie Howell
4 The RHS Images Collection: 2006 (tr); Marianne Majerus/ (ftr).
MMGI: Marianne Majerus,
RHS/Neil Hepworth, design Pip Design: Charlotte Rowe (bl). Design: Sara Jane Rothwell (t). 34 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
Probert. 15 The Garden Collection: Liz Claire Mee Design (t); Marianne
24 Alamy Images: CW Images
4–5 DK Images: Brian North/ Eddison (tr); DK Images: Peter Majerus/Design: Lynne Marcus,
(tl); DK Images: Alex Robinson
Design: Catherine MacDonald Anderson/RHS Chelsea Flower John Hall (b).
(tr); GAP Photos: John Glover
(t); The RHS Images Collection: Show 2009 (tl); Photolibrary: (cl); DK Images: Peter 34–35 Marion Brenner: Design:
RHS/Sarah Cuttle, design John Michael Howes/Design: Dean Anderson/Design: Kati Crome Andrea Cochran Landscape
Warland (c); DK Images: Peter Herald, Flemings Nurseries, and Maggie Hughes, RHS Architecture.
Anderson/Design: Heather RHS Chelsea 2006 (br). Chelsea Flower Show 2013 (cfr);
Culpan and Nicola Reed (b). 35 Jason Liske: www.
16 The Interior Archive: Simon DK Images: Jon Spaull (bl);
redwooddesign.com/Design:
6 The RHS Images Collection: Upton (tr); MMGI: Bennet MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
Bernard Trainor (tr).
RHS/Neil Hepworth, design: Smith/Design: Mary Nuttall (tl); Kingstone Cottages (br).
Adam Frost, RHS Chelsea Marianne Majerus/Henstead 36 Nicola Browne: Design: Jinny
25 Jason Liske: www.redwood
Flower Show 2015. Exotic Garden/Andrew Brogan, Blom (br); DK Images: Design:
design.com/Design: Bernard
Jason Payne (tc); Photolibrary: Graduates of the Pickard School
8 The Garden Collection: Trainor (tr); GAP Photos: Elke
John Ferro Sims (br); Richard of Garden Design (cl).
Jonathan Buckley/Design: Judy Borkowski/Design: Adam
Felber: Design: Raymond Jungles Woolcott (cr); Clive Nichols (cl); 36–37 Harpur Garden Library:
Pearce (bl); The RHS Images Landscape Architect (bc).
Collection: RHS/Neil Hepworth MMGI: Marianne Majerus/Claire Jerry Harpur/Architect: Piet
(br). 17 Helen Fickling: Design: Mee Designs (fbr); Marianne Boon, Planting Design: Piet
Williams, Asselin, Ackaqui et Majerus/Design: Bunny Oudolf.
9 The Garden Collection: Derek Associés/International Flora, Guinness (b).
Harris (bl); Torie Chugg/RHS 37 DK Images: Dwesign: Paul
Montreal (br); Charles Hawes: 26–27 The Garden Collection: Williams (bl); The Garden
Chelsea 2008 (br); Harpur Design: Laureline Salisch &
Garden Library: Jerry Harpur/ Jonathan Buckley/Design: Collection: Gary Rogers/
Seun-Young Song, Ecole Diarmuid Gavin. Chatsworth House (br); Charles
Design: Amir Schlezinger (cb). Supérieure d’Art et de Design Hawes: Designed & created by
10–11 GAP Photos: Andrea (ESAD) Reims, Chaumont 27 Design: Amanda Yorwerth.
Tony Ridler, The Ridler Garden,
Jones/Design: Joe Swift and The International Festival 2007 (tr); 28 The Garden Collection: Swansea, Ammonite sculpture
Plant Room (b); Tim Gainey (t). MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ Derek St Romaine/Design: Phil by Darren Yeadon (ca).
Design: Arabella Lennox-Boyd, Nash (r); MMGI: Marianne
12 The Garden Collection: RHS Chelsea 2008 (tl); Marianne 38 MMGI: Bennet Smith/Design:
Andrew Lawson/Design: Jinny Majerus/Design: Laara Copley-
Majerus/Design: Charlotte Ian Dexter, RHS Chelsea 2008
Blom (tl); MMGI: Marianne Smith (c); Marianne Majerus/
Rowe (tc); Clive Nichols: Data (c); Marianne Majerus/Design:
Majerus/Design: Sara Jane Palazzo Cappello, Malipiero,
Nature Associates (bl); Design: Anthony Tuite (b).
Rothwell (tr); Photolibrary: Barnabo, Venice (l).
Stephen Woodhams (bc). 38–39 The Garden Collection:
David Cavagnaro (bl). 29 DK Images: Design: Sarah
18 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ Nicola Stocken Tomkins.
13 Harpur Garden Library: Jerry Eberle, RHS Chelsea 2007 (tl);
Design: Will Giles, The Exotic MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ 39 DK Images: Design: Paul
Harpur/Design: Shunmyo Garden, Norwich (tr);
Masuno (tl); MMGI: Marianne Design: Lynne Marcus (cl). Hensey, RHS Tatton Park 2008
Photolibrary: Linda Burgess (tl). (b); MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
Majerus/Palazzo Cappello, 30–31 GAP Photos: Andrea
Venice (bl); Photolibrary: 19 MMGI: Bennet Smith/Design: Design: Paul Southern (c).
Jones/Design: Adam Frost,
Michael Howes (br); Richard Denise Preston, Leeds City Sponsor: Homebase 40 Garden Exposures Photo
372/373 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Resources

Library: Andrea Jones/Design: Collection: Derek Harris (c); 55 GAP Photos: Rob Collection: RHS/Neil
Dan Pearson & Steve Bradley MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ Whitworth/Design: Mandy Hepworth, design Pip Probert,
(cl); The Garden Collection: Liz Leonards Lee Gardens, West Buckland (Greencube Garden RHS Show Tatton Park 2016.
Eddison/Design: Alan Sargent, Sussex (b). and Landscape Design), RHS
64 DK Images: Design: Bob
RHS Chelsea 1999 (bl). Hampton Court Palace Flower
48 GAP Photos: Richard Bloom Latham, RHS Chelsea 2008 (bl);
Show 2010.
40–41 The Garden Collection: (cr); MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ Design: Del Buono Gazerwitz,
Jonathan Buckley/Design: Joe Design: Ali Ward (bc); 56 DK Images: Peter Anderson/ RHS Chelsea 2008 (br); Peter
Swift & Sam Joyce for the Plant Photolibrary: David Dixon (bl). Design: Joe Swift, RHS Chelsea Anderson/Design: Harry and
Room. Flower Show 2012. David Rich, RHS Chelsea Flower
49 Peter Anderson: (t); GAP
Show 2013 (tl); Harpur Garden
41 Roger Foley: Scott Brinitzer Photos: Clive Nichols/Chenies 57 DK Images: Design: Heidi Library: Jerry Harpur/Design:
Design Associates (br); MMGI: Manor, Bucks (cl); MMGI: Harvey & Fern Adler, RHS Sam Martin, London (ca).
Marianne Majerus/Design: Paul Andrew Lawson/Sticky Wicket, Hampton Court 2007 (t); GAP
Cooper (bc). Dorset (bc); Marianne Majerus Photos: J S Sira/Kent Design (b). 65 GAP Photos: Rob
(bl) (br). Whitworth/Design: Angela
42 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ 58 Alamy Images: Mark Potter & Ann Robinson (bc);
Design: Sara Jane Rothwell. 50–51 DK Images: Brian North/ Summerfield (bl); DK Images: Harpur Garden Library: Jerry
Design: Catherine MacDonald, Design: Phillippa Probert, RHS
43 Bord Bia: Jacqueline Harpur/Design: Philip Nixon
RHS Hampton Court Flower Tatton Park 2008 (br); Harpur
Leenders/Design: Paul Martin (tl); Marcus Harpur/Design:
Show 2012 Garden Library: Jerry Harpur/
(bl); GAP Photos: Lynn Keddie Growing Ambitions, RHS
(ca); MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ 52 Helen Fickling: International Design: University College Chelsea 2008 (tr); MMGI:
Design: Charlotte Rowe (tl); Flora, Montreal (tr); Harpur Falmouth Students, RHS Chelsea Marianne Majerus/Design:
Marianne Majerus/ Design: Garden Library: Jerry Harpur/ 2007 (t); Jerry Harpur/East Jilayne Rickards (bl); Marianne
Nicola Gammon, www. Design: Jimi Blake, Hunting Ruston Old Vicarage, Norfolk Majerus/The Lyde Garden, The
shootgardening.co.uk (tr); Brook Gardens (c); MMGI: (bc). Manor House, Bledlow, Bucks
Marianne Majerus/Design: Fiona Marianne Majerus/Design: Julie 59 Harpur Garden Library: Jerry (br).
Lawrenson & Chris Moss (fbr); Toll (bl). Harpur/Design: Julian & Isabel 66 DK Images: Design: Paul
Derek St Romaine: Design: Koji Bannerman (cl); Marcus Harpur/
53 GAP Photos: J S Sira/Chenies Dyer, RHS Tatton Park 2008
Ninomiya, RHS Chelsea 2008 Design: Kate Gould, RHS
Manor, Bucks (bc); MMGI: (br); MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
(br). Chelsea 2007 (cr); MMGI:
Andrew Lawson/Design: Philip Design:Peter Chan & Brenda
44 DK Images: Peter Nash, RHS Chelsea 2008 (fbr); Marianne Majerus (bl); Marianne Sacoor (c).
Anderson/RHS Hampton Bennet Smith/Paul Hensey with Majerus/Design: Lynne Marcus
& John Hall (bc); Marianne 68 DK Images: Design: Helen
Court Flower Show 2014 (tr); Knoll Garden, RHS Chelsea
Majerus/Design: Michele Derrrin, RHS Hampton Court
MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ 2008 (tl); Marianne Majerus/
Osborne (ca); Photolibrary: John 2008 (t); www.indian-ocean.
Fiveways Cottage (cla); Marianne Design: Piet Oudolf (ca);
Glover (tc); Stephen Wooster co.uk (c); www.outer-eden.co.
Majerus/Design: Paul Dracott Marianne Majerus/Les Métiers
(cb). uk (b).
(bl); B & P Perdereau: Design: du Paysage dans toute leur
Yves Gosse de Gorre (br). Excellence, Jardins, Jardins aux 60 Marion Brenner: Design: 68–69 The RHS Images
Tuileries 2008. Christian Fournet Shirley Watts, Alameda CA Collection: RHS/Neil
45 The Garden Collection:
(bl); Clive Nichols: Design: www.sawattsdesign.com (br); Hepworth, design Charlie
Jonathan Buckley/Design:
Wendy Smith & Fern Alder, RHS GAP Photos: Michael King/ Albone, RHS Chelsea Flower
Diarmuid Gavin (bl); MMGI:
Hampton Court 2004 (cr); Ashwood Nurseries (bl); MMGI: Show 2016.
Marianne Majerus/ Design:
Photolibrary: Mark Bolton (tc). Marianne Majerus/Design:
Lynne Marcus (tl); Marianne 69 Nicola Browne: Design: Craig
Majerus/Design: Arabella 54 (left to right): DK Images; Jonathan Baillie (bc); Clive Bergman (tc); GAP Photos: Elke
Lennox-Boyd, RHS Chelsea Clive Nichols: Design: Fiona Nichols: Wingwell Nursery, Borkowski (cr); MMGI: Marianne
2008 (tr); Marianne Majerus/ Lawrenson; The Garden Rutland (tr); Undine Prohl: Majerus/Design: Diana Yakeley
Design: Chris Perry, Claire Collection: Jonathan Buckley; Design: Ron Wigginton (cr); DK (br); www.wmstudio.co.uk (cl).
Stuckey, Jill Crooks & Roger Forest Garden Ltd: tel: 0844 Images: Design: Adam Frost,
RHS Chelsea 2007 (c). 70 DK Images: Design:
Price, RHS Chelsea 2005 (br). 248 9801 www.forestgarden.
Francesca Cleary & Ian
co.uk; The Garden Collection: 61 The Garden Collection:
46 Harpur Garden Library: Jerry Lawrence, RHS Hampton Court
Jonathan Buckley; Photolibrary.
Harpur/Design: Made Wijaya & Jonathan Buckley/Design: 2007 (tr); Design: Noel Duffy,
Roger Foley: Design: Raymond
Priti Paul (bc); Photolibrary: Diarmuid Gavin (bc); MMGI: RHS Hampton Court 2008 (bl);
Jungles Landscape Architect (bc);
Peter Anderson/Design: Martha Marianne Majerus/Gardens of James Merrell (tl); GAP Photos:
The Garden Collection: Derek
Schwartz (br). Gothenburg, Sweden 2008 (tr); John Glover/Design:Dan
St Romaine/Design: Philip Nash
Photolibrary: Botanica (br); Pearson, RHS Chelsea 1996 (br).
47 DK Images: Design: Marcus (br); Photolibrary: Marie
Howard Rice (bl).
Barnett & Philip Nixon, RHS O’Hara/Design: Andrew Duff 71 DK Images: Brian North/
Chelsea 2007 (t); The Garden (bl). 62–63 The RHS Images Design: The Naturally
Fashionable Garden designer 79 (left to right): Clive Nichols: 90–91 DK Images: Peter 106–107 The RHS Images
NDG+, RHS Chelsea Flower Design: Charlotte Rowe; Helen Anderson/RHS Chelsea Flower Collection: RHS/Sarah Cuttle,
Show 2010 (bl); Design: Philip Fickling: Claire Mee Designs; Show 2009. design Martin Royer, RHS
Nash, RHS Chelsea 2008 (tc); Clive Nichols: Garden & Hampton Court Palace Flower
92 GAP Photos: Elke Borkowski
The Garden Collection: Torie Security Lighting; GAP Photos: Show 2016.
(bl); John Glover (r).
Chugg/Design: Sue Tymon, RHS Graham Strong. Photolibrary:
108 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
Hampton Court 2005 (c); The Botanica (bl); Red Cover: Ken 93 DK Images: Design: Tom
Design: James Lee (l); Marianne
Interior Archive: Fritz von der Hayden (bc); Shutterstock (br). Stuart-Smith, RHS Chelsea 2008
Majerus/P & M Hargreaves,
Schulenburg (tr); Red Cover: (tr); GAP Photos: Elke
80 DK Images: Peter Anderson/ Grafton Cottage, Staffs (c).
Karyn Millet (tl); www.dylon. Borkowski (br) (tl); J S Sira (cl); S
co.uk (br). Design: Adele Ford and Susan 109 DK Images: Design: Jason
& O (bc).
Willmott, RHS Hampton Court Lock & Chris Deakin, RHS
72 Nicola Browne: Design: Piet Palace Flower Show 2013. 94 GAP Photos: Geoff du Feu
Oudolf (tr); DK Images: Design: Chelsea 2008 (fbl); GAP Photos:
(bl); Jerry Harpur/Design: Jerry Harpur/Design: Roberto
Sadie May Stowell, RHS 81 GAP Photos: John Glover (b).
Isabelle Van Groeningen & Silva (cla); The Garden
Hampton Court 2008 (tl); 82 GAP Photos: Jerry Harpur Gabriella Pape. RHS Chelsea
Design: Sim Flemons & John Collection: Derek St Romaine/
(tl); MMGI: Marianne Majerus 2007 (tc); Clive Nichols: RHS Glen Chantry, Essex (fbr); Nicola
Warland, RHS Hampton Court (tc). Wisley (tr).
2008 (br); The Garden Stocken Tomkins (tr); MMGI:
Collection: Nicola Stocken 83 Brian North: (br); 94–95 GAP Photos: Mark Marianne Majerus (cb); Marianne
Tomkins/Design: M Hall, Photolibrary: Howard Rice/ Bolton. Majerus/Design: Charlotte
Blowzone. RHS Hampton Court Cambridge Botanic Garden (cr). Rowe (clb); Photolibrary: Ron
95 GAP Photos: Elke Borkowski Evans (crb).
2003 (bl). 84 GAP Photos: Elke Borkowski (tc) (cr); Harpur Garden Library:
73 The RHS Images Collection: (bc); Jerry Harpur/Design: Julian Jerry Harpur/Design: Beth 110 The Garden Collection:
RHS/Neil Hepworth, design & Isabel Bannerman (tr); The Chatto (tr); Marcus Harpur/ Derek Harris/Design: Lindsey
Chris Beardshaw, RHS Chelsea Garden Collection: Derek Writtle College (br). Knight (cl); Nicola Stocken
Flower Show 2016 (t); Helen Harris (tc); MMGI: Marianne Tomkins (br); Ian Smith: Design:
96 GAP Photos: Jonathan Acres Wild (bl).
Fickling: Design: May & Watts, Majerus/Design: Bunny
Buckley/Design: John Massey,
Loire Valley Wines, RHS Guinness (cl). 111 Nicola Browne: Design:
Ashwood Nurseries (c); MMGI:
Hampton Court 2003 (c); Jinny Blom (c); Jason Liske:
85 Marion Brenner: Design: Marianne Majerus/Mere House,
MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ www.redwooddesign.com/
Mosaic Gardens, Eugene Kent (tr); Marianne Majerus/
Design: Lynne Marcus (bl). Design: Bernard Trainor (bc);
Oregon. Ashlie, Suffolk (bl).
74–75 The RHS Images Photolibrary: Jerry Pavia (t).
86 The Garden Collection: 97 GAP Photos: Clive Nichols
Collection: RHS/Sarah Cuttle, 112 GAP Photos: Clive Nichols/
design Ruth Willmott, RHS Andrew Lawson (tc); Nicola (cl); Elke Borkowski (tl); Jonathan
Stocken Tomkins (tr); MMGI: Buckley/Design: Wol & Sue Design: Tony Heywood
Chelsea Flower Show 2015. Conceptual Gardens.
Marianne Majerus/Design: Susan Staines (panel right). The
76 The Garden Collection: Collier (bl); Marianne Majerus/ Garden Collection: Jonathan 113 The Garden Collection:
Marie O’Hara (br); Nicola RHS Wisley/Piet Oudolf (br). Buckley (bc). Nicola Stocken Tomkins (t).
Stocken Tomkins (bc); Steven
Wooster/Design: Anthony Paul 87 The Garden Collection: 99 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ 118 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
(tl); MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ Andrew Lawson (b); Derek St Design: Declan Buckley (tl); Design: Charlotte Rowe (l) (c)
Design: Charlotte Rowe (bl); Romaine/Glen Chantry, Essex Marianne Majerus/Design: Philip (r).
Marianne Majerus/Design: Lucy (cl); MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ Nash, RHS Chelsea 2008 (tc);
Woodpeckers, Warks (tr). Marianne Majerus/Tanglefoot 121 www.sketchup.com: (br)
Sommers (tr); Clive Nichols: (bc).
Design: Mark Laurence (tc). (bl); Photolibrary: Howard Rice
88 GAP Photos: Clive Nichols/
(tr). 122 DK Images: Design: Heidi
77 Nicola Browne: Design: Design: Duncan Heather (br);
MMGI: Marianne Majerus (bc); 100 Charles Mann. Harvey & Fern Adler, RHS
Kristof Swinnen (tl); The Garden Hampton Court 2007 (bc);
Collection: Liz Eddison/Design: Marianne Majerus/Design: Jill
101 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
David MacQueen, Orangebleu, Billington & Barbara Hunt.
Design: Sally Hull (b). Leonardslee Gardens, West
RHS Chelsea 2005 (bc); Harpur “Flow” Garden, Weir House,
Sussex (br).
Garden Library: Marcus Hants (bl). 104 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
Harpur/Design: Charlotte Rowe Design: Julie Toll (bl). 123 GAP Photos: Elke
89 DK Images: Steven Wooster.
(br); Clive Nichols: Borkowski (c); MMGI: Marianne
“Flow Glow” Garden for RHS 105 DK Images: Design: Kate
Spidergarden.com/RHS Chelsea Majerus/Coworth Garden
Chelsea 2002 by Rebecca Frey, RHS Chelsea 2007 (t);
2000 (c); Red Cover: Kim Sayer Design (br).
Phillips, Maria Ornberg & MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
(bl); Mike Daines (cra).
Rebecca Heard (r); GAP Photos: Design: Wendy Booth & Leslie 124–125 DK Images: Peter
78 www.janinepattison.com. Elke Borkowski (l). Howell (b). Anderson/Design: Robert
374/375 ACKNOWLEDGMENTSResources

Myers, RHS Chelsea Flower 136 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ Harpur Garden Library: Marcus Collection: Steven Wooster/
Show 2011. Design: Tom Stuart-Smith, RHS Harpur/Design: Gertrude Jekyll, Design: Anthony Paul (c); B & P
Chelsea 2000. Owners: Sir Robert and Lady Perdereau: Design: Jean Mus (t).
126 DK Images: Design: Robert
Clark, Munstead Wood, Surrey
Myers, RHS Chelsea 2008 (tr); 137 GAP Photos: Brian North 161 Corbis: Pieter Estersohn/
(b); MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
The Garden Collection: Nicola (r). Beateworks (cl); The Garden
Bryan’s Ground, Herefordshire
Stocken Tomkins (b); Charles Collection: Liz Eddison/Design:
138–139 The RHS Images (2);
Mann: Sally Shoemaker, Phoenix Andrew Walker, RHS Tatton
Collection: RHS/Neil 150 GAP Photos: John Glover/ Park 2007 (tl); Jason Liske:
AZ (cr); MMGI: Marianne
Hepworth, design Charlie Five Oaks, Sussex (c); John www.redwooddesign.com/
Majerus/Scampston Hall,Yorks/ Albone, RHS Chelsea Flower
Design: Piet Oudolf (tc); Glover/Design: Rosemary Verey Design: Bernard Trainor (bl) (cr).
Show 2016. (bl); Photolibrary: Juliette Wade
Marianne Majerus/Rectory 162–163 DK Images: Peter
Farm House, Orwell/Peter 139 The Garden Collection: (tl).
Anderson/Design: Cleve West,
Reynolds (c). Design: Tom Stuart-Smith, RHS 150–151 Harpur Garden RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2011.
Chelsea 2005 (4); Harpur Library: Jerry Harpur.
127 DK Images: Design: Cleve Garden Library: Jerry Harpur 164 GAP Photos: Janet Johnson
West, RHS Chelsea 2008 (l). (tl); Clive Nichols: Design: 151 Roger Foley: Design: (6); Jerry Harpur/Design: Karla
128 DK Images: Design: Dominique Lafourcade, Oehme van Sweden (tr); GAP Newell (br) (7); Neil Holmes (2);
Fran Coulter, Owners: Bob & Provence (1); www. Photos: Elke Borkowski (cr); Photolibrary: Mark Bolton (5).
Pat Ring (br); GAP Photos: Dave stonemarket.co.uk (5). John Glover/Design: Fiona
165 Ian Smith: Design: Acres
Zubraski (7); Sarah Cuttle (2); Lawrenson (c).
140 GAP Photos: Jerry Harpur/ Wild (cb); B & P Perdereau:
Clive Nichols: (4). Design: L Giubbilei (clb); Jo 152–153 The RHS Images Design: Michel Semini (t) (5).
129 DK Images: Design: Paul Whitworth (cla); MMGI: Collection: RHS/Neil
166 The RHS Images Collection:
Williams (t); Design: Adam Frost Marianne Majerus/Design: Del Hepworth, design Jo Thompson,
RHS/Neil Hepworth, design
(b); GAP Photos: Adrian Bloom Buono Gazerwitz (tr); RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2015.
Luciano Giubbilei, RHS Chelsea
(1/t); Richard Bloom (5/t) (5/b). Photolibrary: Marijke Heuff (br). 154 The Garden Collection: Liz Flower Show 2014.
141 Andrew Lawson: Design: Eddison/Design: Gabriella Pape
130–131 Garden Exposures 167 DK Images: Design: Robert
Christopher Bradley-Hole (b); & Isabelle Van Groeningen, RHS
Photo Library: Andrea Myers, RHS Chelsea 2008;
Charles Mann: Sally Shoemaker, Chelsea 2007 (br); Clive
Jones/Design: Jack Merlo, Harpur Garden Library: Jerry
Phoenix AZ (tl); B & P Nichols: (4); Photolibrary: Kit
Flemings Nurseries, RHS Harpur/Design: Vladimir
Perdereau: Design: Yves Gosse Young (1); Tracey Rich (6).
Chelsea 2005 (b). Djurovic (b).
de Gorre (c). 155 Nicola Browne: Design:
132 Alamy Images: Holmes 168–169 James Silverman: www.
142–143 The RHS Images Jinny Blom (t).
Garden Photos (bl); The Garden jamessilverman.co.uk/Architect:
Collection: Derek St Romaine/ Collection: RHS/Neil 156 Marion Brenner: Design: Marcio Kogan, Brazil.
Design: Woodford West, RHS Hepworth, design Tommaso del Roger Warner, Calistoga,
Buono and Paul Gazerwitz, RHS 169 Alamy Images: Andrea
Chelsea 2001 (br); MMGI: California.
Chelsea Flower Show 2014. Jones/Design: Buro Landrast,
Marianne Majerus/ 157 Alamy Images: LOOK Die Floriade (4); Matthew Noble
Gainsborough Road, Alastair 144 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ Bildagentur der Fotografen Horticultural/Design: Lizzie
Howe Architects (bc). Design: Charlotte Rowe (br) (1). GmbH (b); Marion Brenner: Taylor & Dawn Isaac, RHS
133 Roger Foley: (br); Harpur 145 The Garden Collection: Design: Bernard Trainor, Chelsea 2005 (2); DK Images:
Garden Library: Jerry Harpur/ Andrew Lawson (2/c); MMGI: Monterey, California (t). Design: Marcus Barnett & Philip
Design: Philip Nixon, RHS Marianne Majerus (1/b), (2/b), Nixon, RHS Chelsea 2007 (1);
158–159 Jason Liske: www.
Chelsea 2008 (bl); MMGI: (4/b); Marianne Majerus/ Design: Denise Preston, RHS
redwooddesign.com/ Design:
Marianne Majerus/Design: Design: George Carter (cb); Chelsea 2008 (3); Design: Philip
Bernard Trainor
Jonathan Baille (bc). Marianne Majerus/Port Lympne, Nixon, RHS Chelsea 2008 (5);
Kent (t). 159 DK Images: Design: Robert Peter Anderson: (tl).
134 MMGI: Bennet Smith/ Myers, RHS Chelsea 2008 (3);
Design: Mary Nuttall (bl); 170 Henk Dijkman: www.
146 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ GAP Photos: Jerry Harpur/
Marianne Majerus/ Design: puurgroen.nl (tl); MMGI:
Mannington Hall, Norfolk. Design: Roja Dove (1); B & P
Charlotte Rowe (br). Marianne Majerus/Design: Sara
Perdereau: Design: Michel
147 GAP Photos: FhF Jane Rothwell (bl).
135 GAP Photos: Lynne Keddie Semini (tl); Photolibrary: Robert
Greenmedia (r).
(bl); Steve Gunther: Design: Harding (6). 170–171 Marion Brenner:
148–149 The Garden Design: Joseph Bellomo
Steve Martino (bc); MMGI: 160 Alamy Images: Roger
Collection: Nicola Stocken Architects, Palo Alto CA.
Marianne Majerus/Gunnebo Cracknell (bl); Marion Brenner:
Tomkins.
House, Gardens of Gothenburg Design: Isabelle Greene & 171 Henk Dijkman: www.
Festival, Sweden 2008, Joakim 149 The Garden Collection: Associates, Santa Barbara puurgroen.nl (bc); Harpur
Seiler (br). Nicola Stocken Tomkins (3); California (br); The Garden Garden Library: Jerry Harpur/
Design: Christopher Bradley- 187 Richard Felber: Design: Majerus/Claire Mee Designs 211 Harpur Garden Library:
Hole (c) (r). Raymond Jungles Landscape (br). Jerry Harpur/Design: Bunny
Architect (t). Guinness (b); Ian Smith: Design:
172–173 The RHS Images 200–201 DK Images: Peter
Acres Wild (t).
Collection: RHS/Neil 188 Garden Exposures Photo Anderson/Design: Heather
Hepworth, design: Marcus Library: Landscape Architect: Culpan and Nicola Reed, RHS 212–213 The RHS Images
Barnett, RHS Chelsea Flower Roberto Burle Marx. Hampton Court Flower Show Collection: RHS/Tim Sandall,
Show 2015. 2011. design: Nick Buss and Clare Olof,
188–189 David Clarke: Design:
RHS Hampton Court Palace
174 Harpur Garden Library: Will Giles. 201 GAP Photos: Elke Flower Show 2012.
Jerry Harpur/Design: Vladimir Borkowski (c); Red Cover: Ron
189 GAP Photos: Jerry Harpur/
Djurovic, Lebanon. Evans (t); DK Images: Peter 214 GAP Photos: Fiona McLeod
Design: Vladimir Djurovic,
Anderson/Design: Bunny (8); Paul Debois (2); Zara Napier
175 Nicola Browne: Design: Beirut, Owner: Atassi Yarzeh,
Guinness, RHS Hampton Court (4); MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
Pocket Wilson (t) (1); GAP Lebanon (3); MMGI: Marianne
Flower Show 2011 (b). Design: Ian Kitson (br).
Photos: Richard Bloom (3/c); Majerus/Design: Declan Buckley
Charles Hawes: (5/c); The (5); 202–203 GAP Photos: Brian 215 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
Interior Archive: Helen Fickling/ North/Design: Nick Williams- Claire Mee Designs (tl) (tr).
190 Charles Mann: Design: Bob
Design: Wynniatt-Husey Clarke Ellis.
Clark, Oakland, CA (b); MMGI: 216 The RHS Images Collection:
(b).
Marianne Majerus/Design: Pat 204 DK Images: Design: Maurice RHS/Neil Hepworth, design
176 GAP Photos: John Glover. Wallace (t); Marianne Majerus/ Butcher, RHS Hampton Court Cleve West, RHS Chelsea
Design: Tim Wilmot, Beechwell 2007 (br); Photolibrary: Christi Flower Show 2016.
177 GAP Photos: Marcus
Harpur/Design: AOA House, Yate (c). Carter (2). 217 The Garden Collection:
Corporation Co. Ltd. Ishihara 191 GAP Photos: S & O (cr); Ian 205 The Garden Collection: Jonathan Buckley/Scenic Blue
Kazuyuki Design Laboratory (r); Adams: (tc); Derek St Romaine: Jonathan Buckley/Design: Bunny Design Team, RHS Chelsea
MMGI: Marianne Majerus (l). (bl); Undine Prohl: Design: Guinness (t) (4); Photolibrary: 2005
178 Shutterstock: (1). Steven Shortridge (tl). Mark Winwood (3/c); GAP (t); Liz Eddison/Design: Daniel
Photos: J S Sira/Design: Ron Lloyd Morgan. RHS Hampton
178–179 GAP Photos: J S Sira. 192–193 The RHS Images
Carter (cb). Court 2001 (b).
Collection: RHS/Sarah Cuttle,
179 Photolibrary: Rex Butcher design Andrew Fisher Tomlin 218 DK Images: Design: Teresa
206 GAP Photos: Hanneke
(cr); Shutterstock: (2–6/b). and Dan Bowyer, RHS Hampton Davies, Steve Putnam, Samantha
Reijbroek.
180 Alamy Images: Paolo Negri Court Palace Flower Show 2016. Hawkins, RHS Chelsea 2007 (1);
207 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ Harpur Garden Library: Jerry
(b); GAP Photos: Elke 194 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
Claire Mee Designs (t); Marianne Harpur/Design: Rosemary
Borkowski (t); Photolibrary: (tl); Design: Declan Buckley (br) (2)
Red Cover: Michael Freeman (bl). Majerus/Design: Lynne Marcus Weisse, West Park, Munich,
(5); Photolibrary: John Glover
(b). Germany (l).
180–181 Red Cover: Michael (6).
Freeman. 208 DK Images: Design: 218–219: DK Images: Design:
195 Alamy Images: Asia (5/b);
Franzisca Harman, RHS Chelsea Stephen Hall, RHS Chelsea
181 Harpur Garden Library: blinkwinkel (1/b); DK Images:
2008 (3); Design: Paul Stone 2005.
Jerry Harpur/Design: Shunmyo Design: Annie Guilfoyle (t);
Gardens, RHS Hampton Court
Masuno (c); Clive Nichols: Helen Fickling: Design: Raymond 219 DK Images: Design: Kate
2007 (6); MMGI: Marianne
Marunouchi Hotel, Tokyo (tl); Jungles Landscape Architect (cb); Frey, RHS Chelsea 2007 (3);
Majerus/Claire Mee Designs (1);
Tatton Park, Cheshire (tr); Red FLPA: Inga Spence (2/b); GAP Design: English Heritage
TopFoto.co.uk: (fcl).
Cover: Michael Freeman (b). Photos: Lynn Keddie (3/c); Gardens (4).
Martin Gibbons: (4/b). 209 Steve Gunther: Design and
182–183 DK Images: Peter 220 Marion Brenner: Design:
196 GAP Photos: John Glover/ Installation: Chuck Stopherd of Lutsko & Associates, San
Anderson/Design: Ishihara Hidden Garden Inc. of CA.
Kazuyuki Design Laboratory, Design: Rosemary Verey. Francisco (bc); GAP Photos: J S
RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2013. 210 DK Images: www.jcgardens. Sira (clb); Jonathan Buckley/
197 GAP Photos: Mark Bolton
com (t); Steve Gunther: Design: Design: Christopher Lloyd,
184 Roger Foley: Design: Maggie (c); Clive Nichols: (b).
Mia Lehrer, Malibu CA (bc); Great Dixter (c); Harpur Garden
Judycki for Green Themes, Inc 198–199 GAP Photos: Elke Harpur Garden Library: Jerry Library: Jerry Harpur/Design:
(br) (3) (6). Borkowski. Harpur/Design: Ryl Nowell (bl); Steve Martino, Arid Zone Trees,
185 Photolibrary: Mark Bolton MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ Arizona, USA (tl).
199 GAP Photos: Elke
(2); www.studiolasso.co.uk/ Borkowski (tl). DK Images: Peter Design: Lucy Sommers (tl); 220–221 The Garden
Haruko Seki, photographer & Anderson/RHS Hampton Court Marianne Majerus/Design: Collection: Jane Sebire.
designer (t). Flower Show 2014 (5). David Rosewarne (br).
221 DK Images: Design: Ness
186 Photolibrary: Melanie 200 GAP Photos: Friedrich 210–211 Steve Gunther: Design: Botanic Gardens, RHS Tatton
Acevado. Strauss (l). MMGI: Marianne Sandy Koepke, LA (c). Park 2008 (tr); The Garden
376/377 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Resources

Collection: Jane Sebire/Sheffield Photolibrary: John Glover (3). 248–249 Harpur Garden 260 DK Images: Design: Helen
Botanic Gardens (b). Library: Jerry Harpur/Design: Williams, RHS Hampton Court
235 DK Images: Design: Sam
Steve Martino. 2008.
222–223 GAP Photos: Clive Joyce, Owner: Jacqui Hobson.
Nichols/Design: Nigel Dunnett 249 DK Images: Design: 261 GAP Photos: Jerry Harpur
236 Andrew Lawson: Design:
and The Landscape Agency. Matthew Rideout, RHS (b); Photolibrary: Michele
Arabella Lennox-Boyd.
Hampton Court 2008 (1); Lamontagne (t).
224 GAP Photos: Jo Whitworth
237 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ Design: Paul Cooper, RHS
(6); The Garden Collection: Jane 265 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
Design: Anthony Paul Landscape Chelsea 2008 (3); GAP Photos:
Sebire/Design: Nigel Dunnett Design: Ian Kitson & Julie Toll
Design (b). Fiona McLeod/Design: Cleve (br); www.stonemarket.co.uk
(br) (4). West, RHS Chelsea 2006 (5);
238 GAP Photos: Jerry Harpur (bl).
225 The Garden Collection: The Garden Collection: Liz
(t). 267 GAP Photos: Clive Nichols/
Gary Rogers/Design: Rendel & Eddison/Design: Reaseheath
Dr James Bartons (t) (6); MMGI: 238–239 Helen Fickling: Design: College, RHS Tatton Park 2007 Design: Sarah Layton (br).
Marianne Majerus (1). Andy Sturgeon. (6); Harpur Garden Library: 271 DK Images: Mark
Jerry Harpur/Design: Sonny Winwood/Courtesy of Capel
226 Clive Nichols: Design: 239 DK Images: Steven
Garcia (4); . Manor, Design: Irma Ansell (bl);
Stephen Woodhams. Wooster (2) (4); GAP Photos:
Jerry Harpur/Pashley Manor (3); 250 Helen Fickling: Design: GAP Photos: Fiona Lea (br);
227 GAP Photos: Brian North/ S & O (6). Marie-Andrée Fortier, Art & MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
Design: Jo Penn, RHS Chelsea Jardins, International Flora, Design: Jill Billington & Barbara
2006 (b); MMGI: Marianne 240 GAP Photos: John Glover/ Hunt. “Flow” Garden, Weir
Montreal, Canada (b); Harpur
Majerus/Design: Ali Ward (t). Design: Penelope Hobhouse (tr); House, Hants (cr).
Garden Library: Jerry Harpur/
Jerry Harpur/Design: Britte
228–229 Harpur Garden Design: Vladimir Sitta (c). 279 GAP Photos: Clive Nichols/
Schoenaic (br); Harpur Garden
Library: Jerry Harpur/Design: Library: Jerry Harpur/Design: 250–251 Helen Fickling: The Parsonage, Worcs. (b).
Philip Nixon. Christopher Lloyd, Great Dixter Architect: Claude Cormier, 281 MMGI: Marianne Majerus
229 GAP Photos: Clive Nichols/ (bl); B & P Perdereau: Design: International Flora, Montreal, (br).
Design: Amir Schlezinger My Piet Blankaert (tl). Canada (t).
Landscapes (3); Jerry Harpur/ 282–283 Clive Nichols: Design:
240–241 Andrew Lawson: 251 Marion Brenner: Design: Helen Dillon.
Design: Fiona Lawrenson & Design: Arabella Lennox-Boyd. Andrea Cochran Landscape
Chris Moss (4); Jerry Harpur/ Architect, San Francisco (c); 285 GAP Photos: Neil Holmes
Design: Luciano Giubbilei (1); 241 The Garden Collection: (tr).
Harpur Garden Library: Jerry
MMGI: Marianne Majerus www. Andrew Lawson/Design:
Harpur/Design: Steve Martino 287 DK Images: Design: Xa
finnstone.com (2); Marianne Oehme van Sweden (tr); Harpur
(cr); Steve Gunther: Architect: Tollemache.
Majerus/Design: Lucy Sommers Garden Library: Jerry Harpur/
Ricardo Legorreta/Landscape
(5). Design: Piet Oudolf (r). 288 Photoshot: Photos
Architect: Mia Lehrer &
242–243 The RHS Images Associates, LA (br); Harpur Horticultural (br).
230 Henk Dijkman: www.
puurgroen.nl (tr); DK Images: Collection: RHS/Neil Garden Library: Jerry Harpur/ 290–291 GAP Photos: Tim
Design: Mark Gregory, RHS Hepworth, design Jo Thompson, Design: Peter Latz & Associates, Gainey (t).
Chelsea 2008 (tl); Loupe Images: RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2016. Chaumont Festival, France (bl).
292 GAP Photos: Rob
Ryland, Peters & Small Ltd (bl). 244 GAP Photos: Clive Nichols 252–253 The RHS Images Whitworth (bl).
230–231 MMGI: Marianne (2); Fiona McLeod (7); Leigh Collection: RHS/Neil
Clapp (6); Richard Bloom (3); Hepworth, design Andy 293 DK Images: Peter
Majerus/Design: Charlotte Andreson/ Design: Cleve West,
Rowe. MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ Sturgeon, RHS Chelsea Flower
Design: Piet Oudolf (br). Show 2016. RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2012
231 Harpur Garden Library: (br).
Jerry Harpur/Design: Christoph 245 Photolibrary: John Glover 254 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
(t). Design: Paul Cooper (br) (2) (6). 295 Garden World Images: Paul
Swinnen, Sint Niklaas, Belgium Lane (tl).
(b); MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ 246 The RHS Images Collection: 255 Clive Nichols: Tony
Design: Sara Jane Rothwell (r). RHS/Sarah Cuttle, design John Heywood Conceptual Gardens 296 Garden World Images:
Warland, RHS Chelsea Flower (t). DK Images: Peter Anderson/ Carolyn Jenkins (cl).
232–233 GAP Photos: J S Sira/
Show 2016. Design: Darren Hawkes, RHS 297 The Garden Collection:
Design: Paul Hervey-Brookes,
Chelsea Flower Show 2013 (2). Torie Chugg (c).
built by Big Fish Landscapes, 247 GAP Photos: Richard Bloom
Sponsor: BrandAlley. (t); MMGI: Andrew Lawson/ 256–257 GAP Photos: Tim 299 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
Design: Philip Nash, RHS Gainey (t). Design:Tom Stuart-Smith (bl).
234 GAP Photos: Clive Nichols
Chelsea 2008 (b).
(1); Harpur Garden Library: 258 DK Images: Design: Sam 300 Garden World Images:
Jerry Harpur/Design: Andy 248 Michael Schultz Landscape Joyce (bc); The Garden Nicholas Appleby (bc).
Sturgeon, London (br) (2) (4); Design: (br). Collection: Gary Rogers (br).
302 MMGI: Marianne Majerus/ 354 DK Images: Design: Martin Hargreaves, RHS Tatton Park Thanks to the following people
Saling Hall, Essex (bl). Thornhill, RHS Tatton Park 2008 2008 (bl); Alamy Images: for allowing us to photograph
(cr); www.stonemarket.co.uk (tl) Francisco Martinez (tc); GAP and feature their gardens:
304 GAP Photos: Nicola
(tc); Forest Garden Ltd, tel: Photos: Jerry Harpur (tr);
Stocken (bl). Zelda and Peter Blackadder,
0844 248 9801 www.forest Photolibrary: John Glover/
Jacqui Hobson, Jo and Paul Kelly,
307 Garden World Images: garden.co.uk (cl); Images Design: Jonathan Baillie (c);
Bob and Pat Ring, Amanda
Gilles Delacroix (bl). supplied courtesy of Marshalls www.breezehouse.co.uk (cl);
Yorwerth.
www.marshalls.co.uk/transform www.cuprinol.co.uk (bc).
308 GAP Photos: Fiona
(bc); www.jcgardens.com (br). Thanks to the following
McLeod (bl). 361 DK Images: Design: Jackie
companies for their help on
355 DK Images: Design: Jane Knight Landscapes, RHS Tatton
316 www.davidaustinroses.com this project:
Hudson & Erik de Maejer, RHS Park 2008 (tc); Design: Mark
(c).
Chelsea 2004 (tc); Design: Jon Gregory, RHS Chelsea 2008 Blue Wave 00 45 7322 1414
318 Garden World Images: Tilley, RHS Tatton Park 2008 (bc); www.garpa.co.uk (br); bluewave.dk
Martin Hughes-Jones (cl). (bl); Design: Martin Thornhill, MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
Brandon Hire 0870 514 3391
RHS Tatton Park 2008 (br); GAP Design: Earl Hyde, Susan
323 DK Images: Roger Smith (tl); brandontoolhire.co.uk
Photos: J S Sira (cl); Howard Rice Bennett (cl); Marianne Majerus/
The Garden Collection: Nicola
(bc); www.specialistaggregates. Elton Hall, Herefordshire (c); Garpa 01273 486 400
Stocken Tomkins (tc).
com (cr). www.jcgardens.com (cr); www. garpa.co.uk
328 GAP Photos: Clive Nichols cuprinol.co.uk (tl) (bl).
356 DK Images: Steven Marshalls 0370 120 7474
(tl); Photolibrary: Kate Gadsby
Wooster/Design: Claire 362 DK Images: Design: David marshalls.co.uk
(c).
Whitehouse, RHS Chelsea 2005 Gibson, RHS Tatton Park 2008
Organicstone 01452 411 991
331 GAP Photos: Neil Holmes (c); Design: Geoff Whitten (br); (cl); Design: Cleve West, RHS
organicstone.com
(cr); The Garden Collection: GAP Photos: Elke Borkowski Chelsea 2008 (bl); GAP Photos:
Andrew Lawson (c). (bl); www.bradstone.com/ Elke Borkowski (cr); Jo Ormiston Wire 020 8569 7287
garden (bc); Images supplied Whitworth/Design: Tom ormiston-wire.co.uk
332 MMGI: Marianne Majerus
courtesy of Marshalls www. Stuart-Smith, RHS Chelsea 2006
(cl). Stonemarket 0345 302 0603
marshalls.co.uk/transform (tc). (br).
stonemarket.co.uk
333 The Garden Collection:
357 DK Images: Design: Paul 363 DK Images: Design: Tim
Derek Harris (tr). Thanks to Marie Lorimer for
Hensey with Knoll Gardens, Sharples, RHS Hampton Court
indexing.
335 GAP Photos: Visions (ca); RHS Chelsea 2008 (c); Design: 2008; GAP Photos: Tim Gainey
Photolibrary: Joan Dear (bl); Toby & Stephanie Hickish, RHS (bl); The Garden Collection:
Sunniva Harte (cr). Tatton Park 2008 (bc); Design: Nicola Stocken Tomkins (tr); Thanks to the following DK staff
Niki Ludlow-Monk, RHS www.hayesgardenworld.co.uk for their work on the original
337 Alamy Images: Martin
Hampton Court 2008 (br); (cr) edition of the book:
Hughes-Jones (ca) (cl).
Design: Ruth Holmes, RHS
364–365 The RHS Images Senior Editor Zia Allaway
338 Photolibrary: Mark Hampton Court 2008 (cr); GAP
Collection: RHS/Neil Senior Art Editor Joanne Doran
Bolton (c). Photos: Leigh Clapp/Design:
Hepworth, design Charlie Airedale Publishing Ruth
David Baptiste (bl).
340 GAP Photos: Howard Rice Albone, RHS Chelsea Flower Prentice, David Murphy, Murdo
(bc); Photolibrary: Mayer/Le 358 DK Images: Design: Helen Show 2016 (b). Culver
Scanff (br). Williams, RHS Hampton Court Photographers Peter Anderson,
2008 (cr); www.grangefencing. Brian North
342 The Garden Collection:
co.uk (tl); www.jacksons-fencing. All other images: Illustrators Peter Bull
Andrew Lawson (bc).
co.uk (tr); Forest Garden Ltd, © Dorling Kindersley Associates, Richard Lee, Peter
343 GAP Photos: J S Sira (c). tel: 0844 248 9801 www. Thomas
For further information see:
forestgarden.co.uk (cl) (c); www. Plan Visualizers Joanne Doran,
346 Garden World Images: (bl). www.dkimages.com
kdm.co.uk (bc). Vicky Read
348 GAP Photos: Paul Debois Managing Editor Anna Kruger
359 GAP Photos: Leigh Clapp
(tl). Managing Art Editor Alison
(bc); MMGI: Marianne Majerus/
Donovan
352 GAP Photos: Elke Design: Hans Carlier (tr); Forest
Publisher Jonathan Metcalf
Borkowski (bl); Jerry Harpur Garden Ltd, tel: 0844 248 9801
Associate Publisher Liz
(br); www.stonemarket.co.uk www.forestgarden.co.uk (tc) (bl);
Wheeler
(tr) (cr). www.stonemarket.co.uk (br)
Art Director Bryn Walls
353 www.stonemarket.co.uk 360 DK Images: Brian North/
(top row) (bl); www.bradstone. RHS Hampton Court Palace
com/garden (c) (cr); www. Flower Show 2010 (tl); Design:
organicstone.com (bc). Mark Sparrow & Mark
378/379 Resources
INDEX

Index aggregates 67, 271, 355

Ajuga
A. reptans 93, 334
aquatic plants 66, 82, 98, 349
Aquilegia 91, 233
A. chrysantha 154
A. ‘Fanal’ 348
A. ‘Professor van der Wielen’
348
A. r. ‘Catlin’s Giant’ 334 A. vulgaris ‘William Guiness’ A. ‘Willie Buchanan’ 348
Akebia quinata 155, 318 326 Astrantia 93
A Albone, Charlie 138
Alchemilla mollis 91, 334
Aralia elata ‘Variegata’ 300
arbors 148, 149, 158, 159, 160,
A. major ‘Hadspen Blood’ 326
A. m. ‘Roma’ 129
Abelia 128 alder see Alnus 361 A. m. ‘Sunningdale Variegated’
A. ‘Edward Goucher’ 185 Alhambra (Granada, Spain) 140, Arbutus unedo 252, 296 327
A. x grandiflora 304 141, 157, 161 arches 148, 360 asymmetry 167, 169, 173, 175,
Acacia dealbata 292 alkaline soils 82, 102 architectural influences 244, 254 177, 178, 249
Acanthus 88 Allium 9, 82, 88, 96, 123, 128, architectural interest, perennials Athyrium
A. spinosus 245, 322 230–1 for 323 A. filix-femina 327
Acer 86, 95, 97, 178, 179, 180 A. caeruleum 338 architectural planting 168, 194, A. niponicum var. pictum 334
A. campestre 292 A. cepa 205 235 Attalea cohune 195
A. c. ‘Schwerinii’ 292 A. cristophii 338 architectural plants 161, 164, Aubretia 147
A. griseum 296 A. hollandicum ‘Purple 167, 187, 228, 248, 253 Aucuba japonica ‘Crotonifolia’
A. japonicum ‘Vitifolium’ 296 Sensation’ 215, 338 see also sculptural plants 304
A. negundo ‘Variegatum’ 294 A. schoenoprasum (chives) 165 architecture 36, 135, 137, 138, 145 avenues 138, 237
A. palmatum 174, 182, 279 A. sphaerocephalon 155 Areca vestiaria 195 azaleas 82, 95, 178
A. p. ‘Bloodgood’ 296 allotments 205 art 14, 24, 44, 45, 135, 248, 255 see also Rhododendron
A. p. var. dissectum 94, 164, Alnus glutinosa ‘Laciniata’ 292 land art 247 Azara microphylla 300
304 Alnwick Garden, Art Institute Gardens (Chicago,
A. p. Dissectum
Atropurpureum Group 304
Northumberland 211
alpine meadows 83
IL) 171
Artemisia 82, 162 B
A. p. ‘Fireglow’ 154 alpines 102, 122, 283 A. arborescens 310 Ballota ‘All Hallows Green’ 310
A. p. ‘Osakazuki’ 296 aluminum 65, 67, 357 A. ludoviciana ‘Silver Queen’ Baloskion tetraphyllum 192
A. p. ‘Sango-kaku’ 214, 296 Amelanchier 96 326 bamboo (as a material) 177, 189,
A. platanoides ‘Crimson King’ A. lamarckii 296 A. l. ‘Valerie Finnis’ 326 223
292 amenities, identifying position of A. ‘Powis Castle’ 144 fences 179, 184
A. rubrum 184 104 artificial grass 207 screens 33, 45, 53, 170, 359
A. r. ‘October Glory’ 292 Ampelopsis brecipedunculata 318 Arts and Crafts Movement 147, bamboos 45, 178, 185, 344–7
Achillea 162 Anaphalis triplinervis 326 149, 151, 237 foliage gardens 187, 188, 189,
A. ‘Lachsschönheit’, syn. A. Anchusa azurea ‘Loddon Arum 191
‘Salmon Beauty’ 326 Royalist’ 143 A. italicum ‘Pictum’ 164 see also Fargesia; Phyllostachys
A. ‘Moonshine’ 154 Anemanthele lessoniana 88, 344 A. i. subsp. italicum banana see Musa
A. ‘Summerwine’ 244 Anemone 96 ‘Marmoratum’ 334 barbecues 205, 208
A. ‘Taygetea’ 326 A. blanda ‘Pink Star’ 338 arum lily see Zantedeschia barberry see Berberis
acid soils 82, 102 A. b. ‘Radar’ 338 aethiopica Barcelona Botanic Garden
Aconitum 97 A. b. ‘White Splendor’ 338 Aruncus dioicus ‘Kneiffii’ 88, 348 (Spain) 161
A. ‘Spark’s Variety’ 322 A. x hybrida 322 Arundo donax var. versicolor 344 bare-root plants, planting 279,
Acorus 97 A. x h. ‘Honorine Jobert’ 322 Asarum 93 280
A. calamus 224 A. nemorosa ‘Bracteata ash see Fraxinus bark 187
A. c. ‘Argenteostriatus’ 344 Pleniflora’ 334 aspect 27, 49, 102–3, 122 as mulch 280, 283, 285
Acres Wild 164, 165 Angelica archangelica 225 Asperula odorata 93 paths 39, 271, 354w
Actaea 97 angel’s fishing rod see Dierama Asphodleine lutea 322 play areas 25, 207, 215, 354
A. simplex Atropurpurea pulcherrimum Asplenium scolopendrium Barnett, Marcus 173
Group ‘Brunette’ 348 Anigozanthos 253 Crispum Group 326 Barragán, Luis (1902–88) 144, 195
Actinidia kolomikta 318 annuals 81, 82, 84, 145, 152, 225 assessing your garden 101–29 barrels 99, 105, 285, 363
Adiantum venustum 334 Anthemis Astelia 53, 249 Barton, James 224, 225
Aegopodium podagraria A. punctata subsp. cupaniana A. chathamica 194, 234, 326 basil see Ocimum basilicum
‘Variegatum’ 93 334 A. c. ‘Silver Spear’ 191 Basson, James 159
Agapanthus Headbourne A. tinctoria ‘E.C. Buxton’ 89 Aster 97 Bauhaus School 167, 168
Hybrids 326 Anthriscus sylvestris ‘Ravenswing’ A. amellus ‘Veilchenkönigin’ bay see Laurus nobilis
Agastache 233 334 bedding 89, 145
A. foeniculum 322 apertures 61 Astilbe 93, 99, 122 beds 109, 126, 150
A.f. ‘Alabaster’ 322 see also doors; gates A. chinensis var. taquetii beech
Agave 159, 190, 220 apples 198 ‘Purpurlanze’ 224 hedges 86, 225, 359
 see also Fagus Bowyer, Dan 193 Buss, Nick 213 carrots 205
beehive composter 205 box Butcher, Maurice 204 Carter, George 144, 145
Begonia semperflorens 145 edging 37, 45, 144, 151 Butia yatay 193 Caryopteris x clandonensis
benches 154, 175, 231, 234, 235 hedges 53, 83, 138, 139, 200, Butomus umbellatus 99, 348 ‘Worcester Gold’ 311
Berberis 82, 97, 359 205, 225, 230 butterfly bush see Buddleja Casa Mirindiba (Brazil) 168–9
B. darwinii 304 parterres 81, 126, 135, 139, butyl liners 66, 276–7 cascades 207, 228, 249
B. julianae 304 140, 204, 205, 239 Buxus (boxwood) Catalpa bigonioides ‘Aurea’ 293,
B. x stenophylla 310 topiary 37, 94, 139, 142–3, 235, B. sempervirens 128, 194, 235 294
B. x s. ‘Corallina Compacta’ 310 255 B. s. ‘Elegantissima’ 310 catmint see Nepeta
B. thunbergii ‘Aurea’ 310 see also Buxus B. s. ‘Latifolia Maculata’ 215 Ceanothus
B. t. f. atropurpurea Bradley-Hole, Christopher 171 B. s. ‘Suffruticosa’ 83, 310 C. ‘Concha’ 304
‘Atropurpurea Nana’ 310 branches, removing 289 see also box C. x delileanus ‘Gloire de
B. t. f. atropurpurea ‘Helmond braziers 361 Versailles’ 311
Pillar’ 310
Bergenia 88, 93, 159
Breedon gravel 154, 271
brick 67, 147, 171, 237, 245 C C. thyrsiflorus var. repens 311
Cedrus (cedar)
B. ‘Morgenröte’ 334 designs in 137, 261 cacti 188, 248 C. atlantica Glauca Group 293
Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris edgings 144, 244 CAD (computer-aided design) cements, “green” 353
(red chard) 205 mowing strips 271, 275 113, 121 Centaurea dealbata ‘Steenbergii’
Beth Chatto Gardens (Essex, paths 58, 149, 190, 199, 202, Calamagrostis 327
UK) 221 205, 213, 262 C. x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ Centranthus 162
Betula (birch) 53, 95, 97, 175, paving 352 214 C. ruber 245
212, 224, 240 walls 48, 60, 64, 356 C. x a. ‘Overdam’ 344 C. r. ‘Albus’ 125
B. nigra 152, 155, 292 Briza maxima 344 Calamintha grandiflora ‘Variegata’ Cephalaria gigantea 322
B. pendula 175 Brogdale (Kent, UK) 201 335 ceramics 54, 67, 249
B. utilis var. jacquemontii 184, bromeliads 187 Calluna (heather) see also mosaics
222, 293 bronze 243, 253 C. vulgaris 310 Ceratostigma willmottianum 311
B. u. var. j. ‘Silver Shadow’ 293 Brookes, John 208, 229 C. v. ‘Gold Haze’ 310 Cercidiphyllum japonicum 293
biennials 81, 82 broom see Cytisus; Genista C. v. ‘Spring Cream’ 311 Cercis
birds 12, 219, 220, 222, 284, 287 Brunnera Caltha palustris 99, 224, 348 C. canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’
blackthorn see Prunus spinosa B. macrophylla ‘Dawson’s Camden Children’s Garden 185, 296
bleeding heart see Lamprocapnos White’ 335 (London, UK) 211 C. siliquastrum 95, 296
spectabilis B. m. ‘Jack Frost’ 214 Camellia 82, 103, 177, 178 Chaenomeles speciosa
block planting 126, 168, 169, 170, bubble diagrams/plans 21, 22, C. japonica ‘Bob’s Tinsie’ 304 ‘Moerloosei’ syn. C. ‘Apple
171 25, 120, 126 C. ‘Leonard Messel’ 300 Blossom’ 305
blocks 262, 352 bubble fountains/pools 32, 99, Camley Street Natural Park Chamaecyparis
cutting 263 161, 362 (London, UK) 211 C. pisifera ‘Fififera’ 294
see also pavers bubble jets 145 Campanula C. p. ‘Fififera Aurea’ 294
Blom, Jinny 154, 155 bubble-tubes 213 C. ‘Burghaltii’ 327 Chamaedaphne ‘Cassandra’ 204
bluebell see Hyacinthoides Buckley, Declan 194 C. glomerata ‘Superba’ 327 Chamaemelum nobile
bog gardens 101, 104, 134 Buddhism 179 C. poscharskyana 245 (chamomile) 204
bog plants 98, 348–51 Buddleja (butterfly bush) Campsis x tagliabuana ‘Mme chard, red 205
boggy soil, plants for 351 B. alternifolia ‘Argentea’ 300 Galen’ 318 Château de Villandry (France)
Borde Hill (West Sussex, UK) 241 B. crispa 304 Canna 86, 97, 190, 191 201, 209
borders 18, 19, 129, 138 B. davidii ‘Dartmoor’ 304 C. ‘Durban’ 188, 338 Chatto, Beth 159, 221
cottage gardens 149, 150 B. globosa 300 C. indica 193 Chaumont-sur-Loire (France)
country gardens 239, 241, 242 budgeting 108, 127, 258 C. ‘Striata’ 338 247, 251
gravel borders 25, 158, 270–1 bug hotels 222 canopies 34, 43, 110, 231, 234 cherry see Prunus
Boston ivy see Parthenocissus building projects 256–77 cardoon see Cynara cardunculus cherry blossom 177
tricuspidata budgets 258 Carex (sedge) 82, 93, 99 chilli peppers 198
Botanical Gardens, University of materials 352–63 C. buchananii 344 chimeneas 78, 79
Göttingen (Germany) 221 pre-construction checklist 259 C. elata ‘Aurea’ 344 Chiminanthus praecox
Bougainvillea 160 preparations 258–9 C. oshimensis ‘Evergold’ 344 ‘Grandiflorus’ 300
boundaries 27, 44, 60–1, 86, 101, bulbs 81, 82, 92, 96, 123, 155, C. testacea 344 chipped bark see bark
110–11, 153, 238 338–43 carpet stones 262–3, 352 chives see Allium schoenoprasum
construction 259 Buono, Tommaso del 142–3 Carpinus (hornbeam) 123, 138, Choisya x dewitteana ‘Aztec
legal issues 101, 110, 111 Burle Marx, Roberto (1909–94) 140, 224, 228, 229 Pearl’ 305
see also fencing; gates; hedges; 187, 188, 190, 195 C. betulus 94, 175, 225 Church, Thomas (1902–78) 169,
walls Bury Court (Surrey, UK) 171 C. b. ‘Fastigiata’ 294 171, 208, 238
380/381 Resources
INDEX

Chusan palm see Trachycarpus summer color 96, 313, 319, Cooper, Paul 254 160, 161, 162–3, 164
fortunei 341 Cor-Ten steel 65, 362 crab apple see Malus
Cimicifuga see Actaea winter color 87 Cordyline 86, 171, 187, 188 Crambe cordifolia 322
circular shapes 26–7, 34, 38, 245 color wheel 46–7, 48, 51 C. australis ‘Red Star’ 300 cranesbill see Geranium
Cirsium rivulare ‘Atropurpureum’ color-themed gardens 129, Coreopsis verticillata ‘Moonbeam’ Crataegus 97, 281
322 154, 155 335 C. monogyna 214
Cistus communal gardens 111 Cormier, Claude 251 C. orientalis 297
C. x dansereaui ‘Decumbens’ compost (garden compost) 101, corms 338–43 C. persimilis ‘Prunifolia’ 297
311 102, 218, 219, 282, 283, 284 Cornerstone (Sonoma, CA) crazy paving 352
C. x purpureus 311 compost bins 219 251 Crinum
citrus fruits 143, 157 computer-aided design (CAD) cornflowers 173 C. x powellii 338
city gardens see urban gardens 113, 121 Cornus (dogwood) 95, 97 C. x p. ‘Album’ 338
Clarke, Patrick 175 concept gardens 135, 247 C. alba ‘Aurea’ 305 Crocosmia
classical architecture 36, 137, see also cutting-edge gardens C. a. ‘Sibirica’ 305 C. x crocosmiiflora ‘Coleton
138, 145 concrete 44, 54, 67, 177, 199, C. alternifolia 94 Fishacre’ 338
clay soils 82, 102, 104, 245, 286, 229, 237, 239 C. canadensis 93 C. x c. ‘Venus’ 339
289 colored 175 C. controversa ‘Variegata’ 297 C. masoniorum ‘Firebird’ 339
Clematis 83, 284, 285 containers 362 C. kousa var. chinensis ‘China Crocus
C. alpina 285 cubes 251 Girl’ 297 C. goulimyi 339
C. armandii 318 in cutting-edge gardens 250, 251 C. mas 300 C. tommasinianus 339
C. ‘Bill MacKenzie’ 318 paving 58, 167, 169, 352 C. sericea ‘Flaviramea’ 305 C. t. f. albus 339
C. ‘Étoile Violette’ 318 polished 168, 185 Corokia x virgata 253 crops 199
C. florida var. sieboldiana 318 rendered 64, 235 Coronilla valentina subsp. glauca 312 see also productive gardens
C. ‘Huldine’ 318 screen blocks 356 corrugated iron 357 crown imperial see Fritillaria
C. integrifolia 327 seating 250 Corsican mint see Mentha imperialis
C. macropetala 285 sleepers 354 requienii Cupressus (cypress) 160
C. ‘Markham’s Pink’ 319 walls 54, 64, 357 Cortaderia (pampas grass) 94 C. arizonica var. arizonica 145
C. montana var. rubens 319 for water features 66 C. selloana ‘Aureolineata’ 345 C. macrocarpa ‘Goldcrest’ 297
C. ‘Pink Fantasy’ 128 coneflower see Echinacea; C. s. ‘Pumila’ 345 curves 26, 28, 38–9, 121, 169
C. ‘The President’ 319 Rudbeckia Corylus (hazel) 97 paths 28, 29, 38, 39
C. tubulosa ‘Wyevale’ 327 conifers 44 C. avellana ‘Contorta’ 97, 297 cutting-edge gardens 246–55
Clerodendron trichotomum var. conservation 221 C. maxima ‘Purpurea’ 301 case study 252–3
fargesii 300 conservatories 103 Cosmos 150 Cycas revoluta 194
climbers 19, 81, 83, 201, 318–21, container-grown plants, planting Cotinus (smoke bush) 97 Cyclamen
361 279, 280–1, 282 C. coggygria Rubrifolius Group C. coum subsp. coum
planting 284–5 containers 83, 101, 109, 157, 248, 301 f. albissimum 145
for screening 33, 44, 110, 123 362–3 C. ‘Grace’ 301 C. hederifolium 339
for spring and summer flowers climbers in 285 Cotoneaster 97 Cynara
319 for exotics 189 C. dammeri 312 C. cardunculus 81, 322
supporting 82, 273, 284–5 feeding 289 C. frigidus 94 C. c. Scolymus Group 88
training 284 as focal points 32, 33, 157, 161 C. f. Cornubia’ 301 Cyperus 99
climbing roses 284, 285, 320–1, grasses, sedges and bamboos C. horizontalis 312 C. alternifolius 99
361 for 345 C. lacteus 301 cypress see Cupressus
cloud pruning 72 perennials for 337 C. salicifolius ‘Gnom’ 184, 312 Cytisus battandieri 301
cobbles 54, 137, 262, 277, 355 plants for 337, 345 cottage gardens 64, 84, 133, 134,
cold frames 198
color 46–7, 81, 89, 126, 171,
urban gardens 227, 228, 229,
231
146–55
case study 152–3 D
208, 230, 240 urns 129, 139, 362 sculpture in 72, 73 daffodils see Narcissus
applying 52–3 vegetables crops 198, 199, Coulter, Fran 32–3, 128 Dahlia 81, 97, 150, 188, 198, 201,
combining 47 203 country gardens 38, 53, 134, 207
cutting-edge gardens 250 watering 18, 288 236–45 D. ‘Bishop of Llandaff’ 189, 339
effects of 14, 15, 21, 48–9 contemplation 15, 150, 177, 178, case study 242–3 D. ‘David Howard’ 339
fall color 84, 97, 297 179 courtyards 53, 54, 73, 90–1, 167, D. ‘Gay Princess’ 339
focal plants 95 contemporary gardens 17, 34–5, 180, 202–3 daisy see Bellis
hard landscaping 39, 160, 161, 36, 72, 76, 133 case study 202–3 damp conditions, perennials for
171, 227 contractors 258, 259 cutting-edge gardens 250 333
Mediterranean gardens 160, Convallaria majalis 338 kitchen gardens 201 Daphne
161, 164 Convolvulus cneorum 88, 311 Mediterranean 157, 158, 159, D. bholua ‘Jacqueline Postill’ 305
 D. cneorum 312 urban gardens 227, 234 Edmond, Jeremy 145 evening primroses see Oenothera
D. odora ‘Aureomarginata’ 312 Dipelta floribunda 301 Edwardian gardens 149, 151 evergreen interest, trees for 293
Darmera 82 disabilities, gardeners with 199 eggplant 205 evergreens 15, 81, 82, 84, 87, 97,
D. peltata 348 diseases 198, 203, 217, 218, 285 El Novillero (Sonoma, CA) 169, 171, 178, 208
Daucus carota subsp. sativus divided gardens 128 171 grasses, sedges and bamboos
(carrots) 205 Djurovic, Vladimir 174 Elaeagnus 347
Davidia involucrata 294 dog’s-tooth violet see E. x ebbingei ‘Gilt Edge’ 301 hedges 86, 110
daylily see Hemerocallis Erythronium dens-canis E. ‘Quicksilver’’ 302 shrubs 88, 111, 317
deadheading 19, 282, 288 dogwood see Cornus elder see Sambucus Exochorda x macrantha
deciduous plants 81, 82 doors 61, 359 electrical safety 57, 66, 76, 78, 79 ‘The Bride’ 306
deciduous trees 97, 110 Doronicum 173 electricians 57, 66, 76, 78, 79, The Exotic Garden (Norwich,
planting under 122 D. ‘Little Leo’ 335 259 UK) 188–9
decking 34, 35, 40, 54, 58, 110, drainage 218, 259 elephant’s ears see Bergenia The Exotic Garden of Eze
168, 169, 170, 171, 195, 215, improving 101, 102, 286 Elymus magellanicus 345 (Monaco) 190
228, 235, 239, 260, 261, 354 in retaining walls 64 Ensete 189 exotic plantings 133
curved 38, 58 low-impact development (LID) E. ventricosum 323 see also jungle style
decking tiles 354 105 entertaining 12, 76, 174, 210–11,
laying 266–7
plastic 354
on slopes 41, 104–5
storm-water chain 223
227, 234, 235, 361
environmental issues 57, 69, 78, F
for slopes 101, 105 of surfaces 59, 104–5 133, 353 Fagus (beech)
wood treatments 267 drifts of plants 86, 96, 126, 239, Epimedium 93, 96, 233 F. sylvatica 225
wooden 354 240, 241, 244 E. x perralchicum 335 F. s. ‘Riversii’ 293
Delphinium natural gardens 218, 220, 221 Equisetum (horsetail) 99, 182 fall color 84, 97
D. Blue Fountains Group 323 see also prairie-style planting E. hyemale 99 trees for 299
D. Pacific Hybrids 323 driftwood 72 E. scirpoides 99 fall-flowering shrubs 315
dens 208, 210 drives 355 Eranthis hyemalis 340 falsa acacia see Robinia
Deschampsia drought-tolerant plants 82, 122, Eremurus stenophyllus 328 pseudoacacia
D. cespitosa ‘Bronzeschleier’ 125, 160, 162, 220 Erica arborea var. alpina 305 families, needs of 12–13
175 dry sites, plants for 82, 92, 303 ericaceous plants 82, 102 family gardens 13, 32–3, 109,
D. flexuosa ‘Tatra Gold’ 345 dry stone walls 54, 64, 214, 222, Eriobotrya japonica (loquat) 187, 134, 206–15
design 356 195 case study 212–13
choosing materials 56–79 dry stream beds 157, 159, 179 Eryngium Fargesia
designing with plants 80–99 Dryopteris 93 E. agavifolium 323 F. murielae 345
first principles 20–55 D. affinis ‘Cristata’ 129 E. bourgatii ‘Oxford Blue’ 335 F. rufa 234
garden assessment 100–11 D. erythrosora 328 Erysimum 89 Farrand, Beatrix (1872–1959)
gathering inspiration 24–5 D. wallichiana 323 Erythronium dens-canis 340 238
styles 130–255 Dumbarton Oaks (Washington Escallonia ‘Apple Blossom’ 305 Fatsia 187
see also plans D.C.) 141 espaliers 200 F. japonica 194, 306
design software 113, 121 Dunnett, Nigel 223, 224 Eucalyptus 188, 189 fedges 359
Deutzia 86 Duranta erecta ‘Geisha Girl’ 193 E. gunii 293 fences 41, 44, 147, 269, 284
diagonal layouts 26, 28, 35, 120, 121 Eucomis bicolor 340 bamboo 179, 184
Dial Park (Worcestershire, UK)
148–9 E Euonymus
E. alatus ‘Compactus’ 224
fence posts, putting up 268–9
height 111
Dianthus early-flowering perennials 327 E. fortunei ‘Emerald Gaiety’ 312 materials 357, 358–9
D. ‘Bovey Belle’ 335 East Lambrook Manor E. japonicus 194 picket fences 33, 61, 147, 358
D. cruentus 162 (Somerset, UK) 151 E. j. ‘Latifolius Albomarginatus’ staining 269
Dicentra ‘Bacchanal’ 335 easy-care gardens 13, 84 164 fennel see Foeniculum
Dicksonia antarctica 297 Eccremocarpus scaber 285, 319 Eupatorium maculatum ferns 91, 93, 99, 222
Dierama pulcherrimum 323 Echinacea 221 Altropurpureum Group 348 see also Adiantum; Asplenium;
Digitalis (foxglove) 151 E. ‘Art’s Pride’ 328 Euphorbia 159 Athyrium; Dryopteris; Matteuccia;
D. grandiflora 327 E. pallida 244 E. characias subsp. wulfenii Osmunda; Polypodium
D. x mertonensis 328 E. purpurea 214, 328 ‘John Tomlinson’ 312 fertilizer 282, 285, 286, 287,
D. purpurea 242 E. p. ‘Alba’ 328 E. griffithii ‘Dixter’ 328 289
D. p. ‘Alba’ 154 Echinops bannaticus 323 E. x martinii 328 Festuca
dining areas 32, 45, 69, 103, 160, eclectic influences 132, 248, 249 E. mellifera 195 F. glauca 145
174 ecosystems 218 E. palustris 224 F. g. ‘Elijah Blue’ 345
family gardens 207, 208, edgings 28, 59, 141, 144, 244, E. polychroma 173, 336 Ficus (fig)
210–11, 214, 215 262, 263 E. schillingii 328 F. carica ‘Brown Turkey’ 297
382/383 Resources
INDEX

Filipendula rubra ‘Venusta’ 349 foxglove see Digitalis garden rooms (structures) 360 setts (pavers) 54, 59, 352
firepits 78, 209, 253 fragrance see scent garden styles 16–17, 132–5 grape hyacinth see Muscari
fireplaces 78, 230–1 framing views 32–3 Gardens of Appeltern (The grass paths 237, 239
firethorn see Pyracantha Fraxinus excelsior ‘Pendula’ 294 Netherlands) 231 grasses 36, 81, 82, 88, 141, 155,
fish 184 Fritillaria (fritillary) 96 Garrya 97 171, 185, 221, 344–7
Fish, Margery (1888–1969) 151 F. imperialis 340 gates 61, 111, 359 country gardens 238–9, 240,
flambeaux 234 F. i. ‘Maxima Lutea’ 340 Gazania 129 241
flint 54, 245, 356 F. meleagris 220, 340 gazebos 160, 248, 360 cutting-edge gardens 249
flooding 105, 223 front gardens 53, 144, 151, 361 Gazerwitz, Paul 142–3 for fall color 97
flooring kits 354 Frost, Adam 31, 129 Generalife (Spain) 141, 157 urban gardens 228, 229, 230–1
flower color 89, 123 frost pockets 102 Genista 92, 159 for winter interest 53
flowering period 122 fruit 15, 148, 198, 275 geometric layouts 26–7, 34–5, see also Miscanthus; Molinia;
focal plants 81, 85, 94–5 fruit trees 198, 199, 200 36, 37, 138, 205, 228 New Perennial Movement;
focal points 21, 28, 33, 37, 148, FSC (Forest Stewardship formal gardens 135, 137 Pennisetum; prairie-style
238 Council) 53, 57, 65, 69, 353 Modernist gardens 167, 168, planting; Stipa
containers 32, 33, 34 Fuchsia 170–1, 173 gravel 137, 168, 185, 355
formal gardens 137, 138–9 F. magellanica 97, 164, 306 productive gardens 200, 205, Breedon 154, 271
Japanese gardens 179 Fukuhama, Masao 178 208 colored 139, 271
mosaics 164 functional planting 84 geotextile membrane 266–7, gravel containment mats 355
plants 81, 85, 94–5 functional requirements of 270, 271, 277 Japanese gardens 177, 178–9,
sculpture 34, 43, 73, 228, 242 gardens 12–13, 134 Geranium (cranesbill) 16, 91, 93 180, 185
seats 68, 148, 237 funky gardens 17 G. ‘Brookside’ 329 laying 259
shrubs for 301 furniture 25, 57, 68–71, 228, G. clarkei ‘Kashmir White’ 336 as mulch 107, 158, 270, 283
structures 121, 179, 211, 361 248, 261 G. endressii 93 paths 39, 53, 58, 138, 147, 149,
trees for 295 care of 69 G. ‘Jolly Bee’ 214 199, 237, 238, 244, 261, 263
Foeniculum (fennel) contemporary 68, 71, 169, 233 G. macrorrhizum 93, 329 self-binding 154, 271, 355
F. vulgare 88 designing with 68–9 G. ‘Nimbus’ 329 self-seeding 155
F. v. ‘Purpureum’ 324 foldaway 68 G. palmatum 194 in Zen gardens 177, 179
Foerster, Karl (1874–1970) 154 hardwoods 69, 175 G. ‘Patricia’ 155 gravel borders 25
foliage 15, 122, 230 modernist 70 G. phaeum 329 laying 270–1
foliage gardens 161, 186–95 rain and UV damage 69 G. sanguineum 144 gravel gardens 122
case study 192–3 rustic 53, 68, 69, 70, 149, 150, G. sylvaticum 224 Mediterranean 157, 158–9,
foliage interest 89, 123, 230 219 Geum 91 160, 165
climbers for 321 sculptural 68, 71, 229 G. ‘Lady Stratheden’, syn. G. Gravetye Manor (West Sussex,
perennials for 331 as storage 69, 361 ‘Goldball’ 336 UK) 238
shrubs for 307 see also seats G. ‘Prinses Juliana’ 223 Great Dixter (East Sussex, UK)
foliage plantings 129, 133 fusion style 135 Gibbs, James (1682–1754) 145 240, 241
foliage plants 93, 228, 240 Giles, Will 188 “green” cement 353
follies 361
Forest Stewardship Council see G Gladiolus 96, 123
G. byzantinus 143
green roofs 183, 218, 219, 224,
360
FSC gabions 356 glass 45, 65, 67, 184, 229 greenhouses 109, 198, 199, 205,
forget-me-not see Myosotis Galanthus (snowdrop) 97 ground-glass 271 360
form 8, 45, 87 G. ‘Atkinsii’ 340 mosaics 164 grey-leaved plants 82, 92
formal gardens 28, 52, 53, 132, Galium odoratum 204 panels 43, 63, 185, 357 Groeningen, Isabelle Van 154
136–45, 167, 237 Galtonia viridiflora 340 pebbles 355 groundcover 81, 85, 92–3, 224
case study 142–3 galvanized metal 363 Gleditsia triacanthos ‘Sunburst’ shrubs for 309
Mediterranean 157, 160, 161, garbage cans 33, 361 294 grouping plants 126
164 Garden of Australian Dreams globe thistle see Echinops growing conditions 101
near the house 126, 237 (Canberra, Australia) 251 bannaticus growth habits 83
symmetry 21, 26, 132, 135 garden compost 101, 102, 218, Golden Gate Park (San Guevrekian, Gabriel 171
see also parterres 219, 282, 283, 284 Francisco, CA) 181 Guilfoyle, Annie 195
Fothergilla 95, 97 garden design 7–9, 21 Goldsworthy, Andy 247 Guinness, Bunny 204, 205
foundations 259 garden festivals 247, 251 Goodman, Will 248 Gunnera 86
patios 264–5 garden offices/studios 65, 223, Google Earth 119 G. manicata 349
fountains 99, 137, 139, 140, 141, 360 gourds 201 Gustafson, Kathryn 247
249 garden onions 205 gradients, measuring 115 Gypsophila 88
bubble fountains 32, 99, 161, garden “rooms” (compartments) granite 59, 225 G. paniculata ‘Bristol
362 62–3, 148, 165 polished 54, 353 Fairy’ 329
H planting 280–1
and right to light 111
honeysuckle see Lonicera
hop see Humulus
I. pallida ‘Variegata’ 341
I. pseudacoris 99
habitats 108, 237, 238, 283 for structure 86, 139, 200, 237, hornbeam see Carpinus I. p. ‘Variegata’ 349
cottage gardens 153 238, 239, 240, 241, 244 horsetail see Equisetum I. reticulata 92
Japanese gardens 183 tall 101, 111 Hosta 32, 33, 53, 88, 89, 91, 93, I. sibirica 225
natural gardens 217, 218, 220, yew 73, 75, 139, 145, 155, 239, 97, 99, 192 I. s. ‘Butter and Sugar’ 349
222, 225 241, 293 H. ‘Francee’ 184, 330 I. s. ‘Perry’s Blue’ 349
water features 99, 105, 134 height 42–3, 122 H. ‘Krossa Regal’ 129 I. ‘Superstition’ 341
Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’ 89, levels 42 H. ‘Royal Standard’ 154, 330 I. versicolor ‘Kermesina’ 349
154, 190, 345 Helenium ‘Moerheim Beauty’ 329 H. sieboldiana var. elegans 164, I. ‘White Knight’ 341
Hall, Stephen 219 Helianthemum 88, 92 330 ironwork 145, 254, 357
Hamamelis 95, 97, 123 H. ‘Wisley Primrose’ 313 H. ‘Sum and Substance’ 154 irregularly-shaped plots 116–17,
H. x intermedia ‘Jelena’ 302 Helianthus (sunflower) 188 hot, dry sites, shrubs for 303 119
H. x i. ‘Pallida’ 302 H. ‘Lemon Queen’ 324 hot tubs 191 Islamic influence 36, 37, 141
handkerchief tree see Davidia H. ‘Monarch’ 324 hues 46, 49 Isolepsis cernua 99
involucrata Helichrysum italicum subsp. Humulus lupulus ‘Aureus’ 320 Itea ilicifolia 302
Hardenbergia violacea 319 serotinum 313 hurdles 54, 191, 201, 359 ivy see Hedera
hardwoods 65, 67, 69, 175, 274, Heliconia rostrata 195 Hurst Garden 248 ivy-leaved geranium see
353, 354, 358 Helleborus (hellebore) 96 hyacinth see Hyacinthus Pelargonium
hardy geraniums see Geranium H. argutifolius 329 Hyacinthoides non-scripta 340
hawthorn see Crataegus
hazel see Corylus
H. foetidus 329
H. x hybridus ‘Pluto’ 336
Hyacinthus (hyacinth) 96
H. orientalis ‘Blue Jacket’ 340 J
health 15 H. orientalis 93 Hydrangea 95 Jacobsen, Arne 171
heat islands 188 Hemerocallis (daylily) H. anomala subsp. petiolaris Japanese anemone see Anemone
heather see Calluna H. ‘Buzz Bomb’ 329 285, 320 x hybrida
heating 57, 78–9, 174, 230–1, H. ‘Marion Vaughn’ 330 H. arborescens ‘Annabelle’ Japanese gardens 176–85, 249
361 hen’n’chicks see Sempervivum 306 case study 182–3
Hebe 88, 123, 128 tectorum H. aspera Villosa Group 306 Japanese maple see Acer
H. ‘Great Orme’ 312 herb gardens 37, 52, 165, 204, H. macrophylla 144 Japanese-style gardens 133,
H. macrantha 313 205 H. m. ‘Mariesii Lilacina’ 306 184–5, 355
H. ‘Midsummer Beauty’ 306 herbaceous perennials see H. paniculata ‘Unique’ 302 Jardin Majorelle (Marrakesh,
H. ochracea ‘James Stirling’ perennials H. quercifolia ‘Snow Queen’, Morocco) 161, 164
313 herbs 15, 81, 135, 149, 152, 158, syn. H. ‘Flemygea’ 306 Jasione montana 125
H. ‘Pewter Dome’ 145 198, 200, 201, 203, 205 Jasminum (jasmine) 212, 284, 285
H. pinguifolia 88, 92
H. p. ‘Pagei’ 313
Mediterranean 102, 165
raised beds 275 I J. nudiflorum 307
J. officinale
H. ‘Red Edge’ 313 Hervey-Brookes, Paul 233 Iberis sempervirens 88 ‘Argenteovariegatum’ 320
Hedera (ivy) 93, 285 Hestercombe (Somerset, UK) ideas see inspiration Jekyll, Gertrude (1843–1932)
H. colchica ‘Dentata Variegata’ 241 Ilex (holly) 111 147, 149, 151, 159, 238, 241
319 Heuchera I. aquifolium ‘Silver Queen’ 302 Jellicoe, Sir Geoffrey (1900–96)
H. c. ‘Sulphur Heart’, syn H. c. H. ‘Chocolate Ruffles’ 129 I. crenata 94 154, 185
‘Paddy’s Pride’ 319 H. ‘Pewter Moon’ 336 Imperata cylindrica ‘Rubra’ 345 Jensen, Jens (1860–1951) 218
H. helix 93 H. ‘Plum Pudding’ 89, 235, 336 Indigofera heterantha 307 jets 207, 228
H. h. ‘Kolibri’ 254 H. ‘Red Spangles’ 336 infinity pools 167, 175 Jim Thompson House (Bangkok,
H. h. ‘Oro di Bogliasco’, Heywood, Tony 255 informal gardens 21, 157, 160, Thailand) 190
syn. H. h. ‘Goldheart’ 319 Hibiscus syriacus ‘Diana’ 306 164 Joyce, Sam 234, 235
H. h. ‘Parsley Crested’ 319 Hidcote Manor informal ponds 261, 276–7 Judas tree see Cercis siliquastrum
hedges 19, 44, 45, 147, 168, 224 (Gloucestershire, UK) 148, insects 12, 99, 200, 219, 221, Judycki, Maggie 184
beech 86, 225, 359 151 283, 285 Juncus 99
box 53, 83, 139, 200, 205, 225, Hidden Gardens 208 bug hotels 222 J. effusus f. spiralis 99
230, 239 high-maintenance gardens inspiration 16–17, 21, 24–5, 122, J. patens ‘Carman’s Gray’ 99
country gardens 237, 238, 239, 18–19, 84 133 jungle style 9, 27, 191, 193
240, 241, 244 hillsides, natural 41 interlocking circles 38 see also foliage gardens
deciduous 86 Hippophae rhamnoides 302 Inula magnifica 324 Jungles, Raymond 195
evergreen 86, 139 holly see Ilex Ipomoea (morning glory) 285 Juniperus (juniper)
formal 137, 138, 139, 244 holly oak/holm oak see Quercus Iris 91, 92, 98, 122, 171, 177 J. communis ‘Hibernica’ 302
low 33, 34 ilex I. ‘Golden Alps’ 341 J. x pfitzeriana 313
mixed 239, 280 honesty see Lunaria I. laevigata 349 J. x p. ‘Pfitzeriana Aurea’ 313
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INDEX

J. procumbens 313 L. angustifolia 214 L. delavayanum 94, 175 Lythrum 98

J. squamata ‘Blue Carpet’ 314 L. a. ‘Munstead’ 314 L. jonandrum 144 L. salicaria ‘Feuerkerze’ 331
L. pedunculata subsp. lusitanica L. ovalifolium ‘Aureum’ 302 L. virgatum ‘The Rocket’ 150

K 254 Lilium (lily) 96

Katsura Imperial Villa (Japan) 181

L. stoechas 165, 314
Mediterranean gardens 157,
L. ‘African Queen’ 341
L. ‘Black Beauty’ 341 M
Kazayuki, Ishihara 183 158, 159, 165 L. Citronella Group 341 MacDonald, Catherine 51
Kensington Roof Gardens Lavatera 83 L. martagon 341 Macleaya microcarpa ‘Kelway’s
(London, UK) 231 L. x clementii ‘Barnsley’ 307 L. Pink Perfection Group 342 Coral Plume’ 324
Kent, William (1685-1748) 241 L. x c. ‘Bredon Springs’ 307 L. regale 342 Magnolia 96, 179
Kiftsgate Court lavender see Lavandula L. ‘Star Gazer’ 342 M. liliiflora ‘Nigra’ 307
(Gloucestershire, UK) 241 lawns 34, 148, 168, 187, 230, 288 lily see Crinum; Lilium M. stellata 307
Kiley, Dan 144, 171, 238 country gardens 238, 239, 243, lily-of-the-valley see Convallaria Mahonia 81, 97
Kirby, Rick 75 245 majalis M. japonica 307
Kiringeshoma palmata 349 family gardens 207, 214 lime see Tilia M. x media ‘Buckland’ 254
kitchen gardens 64, 204, 205 formal gardens 137, 138, 139, limestone 140, 155, 159, 160, M. x m. ‘Charity’ 302
see also vegetable gardens 140, 142 167, 168, 171, 250, 353 maintenance 18–19, 288–9
Kitson, Ian 214 laying turf 279, 286 liquid feeds 289 mallow see Lavatera
Knautia macedonica 330 mowing 287 living willow 359, 360 Malus
Kniphofia (red hot poker) 237 seeding 279, 287 Lloyd, Christopher (1921–2006) M. ‘Evereste’ 298
K. ‘Bees’ Sunset’ 330 work involved 18, 19 240 M. ‘Royalty’ 298
K. ‘Percy’s Pride’ 330 Lawrenson, Fiona 244, 245 loams 102, 104 man-made materials 229, 248–9,
knot gardens 137 layering shapes 34–5 Lobelia 188 255
Kogan, Marcio 168–9 Le Nôtre, André (1613–1700) local materials 189, 217, 218, 219 Manchester Allotment Society
Kolkwitzia amabilis ‘Pink Cloud’ 139, 141 log storage 221 205
307 lead planters 363 “lollipop” trees 45 manure 102, 218, 282, 284, 289
leafmold 283 London Garden Designer maple see Acer

L legal issues, boundaries 101, 110,

111
(garden design) 22–3
London Wetland Centre 221
marble 142, 353
marginal plants 98, 122, 219, 221,
Laburnum 95 lemon trees 143 Long, Richard 247 241, 277, 349
L. x wateri ‘Vossii’ 298 Leucanthemella serotina 324 Lonicera (honeysuckle) 97, 284, marjoram see Origanum
lady’s mantle see Alchemilla mollis Leucanthemum x superbum 285 Martino, Steve 220, 248
Lagurus ovatus 346 ‘Wirral Supreme’ 324 L. nitida 94 Mason, Olive 148–9
lakes 237, 238 Leucojum aestivum ‘Gravetye L. n. ‘Baggesen’s Gold’ 128, 314 materials 205, 228, 352–63
Lamium Giant’ 341 L. periclymenum ‘Serotina’ 224, checklist 67
L. maculatum ‘Red Nancy’ 336 levels 23, 34–5 320 choosing 9, 56–79, 259
L. m. ‘White Nancy’ 336 Liatris spicata ‘Kobold’ 330 L. pileata 93, 314 local 189, 217, 218, 219
Lamprocapnos spectabilis ‘Alba’ lichens 177 loquat see Eriobotrya japonica man-made 229, 248, 249, 255
328 lifestyle changes 133 Lost Gardens of Heligan modern 53, 133, 249, 250–1,
land art 247 light 21, 48, 140, 167, 248 (Cornwall, UK) 201 254
landscape fabric 159, 283 right to 111 Lotus hirsutus 88 Modernist gardens 167, 169
landscape, links to 27, 33, 238, lighting 34–5, 76–9, 111, 140, Loudon, John Claudius (1783– natural 64, 229, 239, 248
239, 245 85, 235, 254 1843) 229 for paths 28, 29, 57
Landscape Movement 237 cutting-edge gardens 248, 249, low-maintenance gardens 19, 84, for screens and boundaries
lanterns, stone 176, 179, 181 254 195, 234, 235 60–1
larch see Larix family gardens 207, 214 see also prairie-style planting for slopes 64, 65
large shrubs 300–3 installations 57, 76, 78, 258, Luis Cezar Fernandes Garden for structures 64, 65
large trees 292–3 259 (Brazil) 188 for surfaces 58–9
Larix (larch) LEDs 53, 76, 77, 78, 79, 249 Lunaria (honesty) 53 sustainable 133, 217, 218, 219
L. kaempferi ‘Pendula’ 298 Modernist gardens 168, 169, Lupinus ‘Chandelier’ 331 for walls and railings 356–7
late-flowering perennials 329 174, 175 Lutyens, Edwin (1869–1944) 149, for water features 66
late-flowering shrubs 315 for mood 15, 77 241 matrix planting 154
Lathyrus odoratus (sweet pea) solar 57, 79 Lychnis Matteuccia struthiopteris 350
164, 201, 284, 285 urban gardens 227, 228, 229, L. coronaria 331 mature gardens, rejuvenating
Latz, Peter 250 230 L. c. ‘Alba’ 331 108, 109
Laurus nobilis (bay) 45, 203, 298 Ligularia 88 L. flos-cuculi 225 mature trees 109
Lavandula (lavender) 16, 45, 73, L. ‘The Rocket’ 350 Lysimachia 93, 98 meadow plantings 147, 217, 218,
82, 92, 150, 198 Ligustrum L. ephemerum 331 241
meadows 19, 220, 237, 238, 239 M. ‘Squaw’ 331 natural materials 64, 229, 239, orchards 237
measuring a plot 114, 115, Mondrian, Piet 173 248 organic approach 217
116–17, 261 monochrome colors 53 natural stone see stone organic layouts 21, 34, 38–9, 121
Meconopsis betonicifolia 251 monoculture plantings 240 naturalistic plantings 14, 86, 122, organic matter 92, 93, 280, 282,
meditation 177, 179 “mood boards” 24 126, 237 286, 289
Mediterranean gardens 52, 72, moods 14–15, 21, 27 navigation 28–9, 32 orientation 49
124–5, 156–65 Moorish influence 157, 158, 161, Nectaroscordum siculum subsp. see also aspect
case study 162–3 164, 361 bulgaricum 343 Origanum
Mediterranean herbs 102 morning glory see Ipomoea neighbors 110, 111, 259 O. ‘Kent Beauty’ 314
Mediterranean plantings 92, 125, Morus nigra (mulberry) 294 see also privacy O. laevigatum ‘Herrenhausen’
106–7, 143, 248, 250, 283 mosaics 53, 59, 137, 356 Nepeta 92 331
medium-sized perennials Mediterranean gardens 157, N. grandiflora ‘Dawn to Dusk’ O. vulgare ‘Aureum’ 165, 215
326–33 158, 159, 164 331 ornamental cherry see Prunus
medium-sized shrubs 304–9 moss gardens 180 N. nervosa 128 Orontium 98
medium-sized trees 294–5 mosses 99, 177, 179, 183 N. ‘Six Hills Giant’ 331 O. aquaticum 99
Mee, Claire 214, 215 movement 34, 145, 184, 185, 249 Nerine 123 Osmanthus 172
Melianthus major 324 mowing lawns 287 N. bowdenii 343 O. x burkwoodii 308
Mentha (mint) mowing strips 271, 275 Nerium oleander 165 Osmunda regalis 350
M. requienii 83 mulberry see Morus neutral colors 53 Oudolf, Piet 240, 241, 244
M. suaveolens 204 mulches 283, 288 New Perennial Movement 217, outdoor living 109, 133, 168, 174,
metal 54, 64, 65, 67, 354 chipped bark 280, 283, 285 218, 221, 244 231
steps 65 garden compost 102, 283 new styles 135 outdoor rooms 12, 62–3, 76,
see also aluminum; steel gravel 107, 158, 270, 283 Newell, Karla 164 109, 134, 164, 168, 208, 223,
metal grilles 354 leafmold 283 NGS (National Garden Scheme) 228, 229
microclimates 110, 133, 164, 165 manure 102 Yellow Book 231 overlaid photographs 22, 117, 126
midrange plants 81, 85, 86, 88–9 organic matter 282 Nixon, Philip 228–9 oxygenators 98
Mies van der Rohe, Ludwig multilevel layouts 40–1 Nymphaea (waterlily) 98, 99, 277
(1886–1969) 174
Millennium Park (Chicago, IL)
multistemmed trees 172
Munstead Wood (Surrey, UK)
N. alba 225
N. ‘Darwin’ 350 P
211 149, 151 N. ‘Froebelii’ 350 Pachysandra terminalis 93, 336
miniature landscapes 177, 180 Musa (banana) 188, 189 N. ‘Gonnère’ 350 paddlestones 355
minimalism 17, 133 M. basjoo 195, 235, 324 N. ‘Marliacea Chromatella’ 350 Paeonia (peony) 84, 97, 177
mint see Mentha Muscari (grape hyacinth) 96 N. tetragona 99 P. delavayi 308
Miscanthus 86 M. armeniacum ‘Blue Spike’ 342 Nyssa sinensis 294 P. lactiflora ‘Duchesse de
M. sinensis 97, 235 M. latifolium 342 Nemours’ 154
M. s. ‘Gracillimus’ 346
M. s. ‘Kleine Silberspinne’ 346
Myers, Robert 125
Myosotis (forget-me-not) 53 O P. l. ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ 332
pagoda tree see Sophora japonica
M. s. ‘Malepartus’ 346 M. scorpioides 99, 350 oak see Quercus paint 46, 353, 357, 360, 361
M. s. ‘Silberfeder’ 346 Myrtus (myrtle) obelisks 201, 285, 360 Paley Park (New York, NY) 231
M. s. ‘Zebrinus’ 346 M. communis ‘Flore Pleno’ 307 Ocimum basilicum (basil) 205 pallets 357
mixed borders 18 O’Connor, John 73 palms 160, 164, 188, 189, 190,
mixed hedges 239, 280
mock orange see Philadelphus N Odette Monteiro Garden see
Luis Cezar Fernandes Garden
193, 249, 250
see also Trachycarpus
modern materials 53, 133, 249, Nandina Oehme van Sweden 151 pampas grass see Cortaderia
254 N. domestica 308 Oenethera fruticosa ‘Fyrverkeri’ Panicum 221
Modernist gardens 126, 132, N. d. ‘Fire Power’ 308 336 P. virgatum ‘Heavy Metal’ 155,
166–75, 248 Narcissus (daffodil) 96, 214 offsets (in surveying) 116 346
case study 172–3 N. ‘Bridal Crown’ 342 Olaf, Clare 213 P. v. ‘Rehbraun’ 244
Modernist influences 155 N. poeticus var. recurvus 342 Olea europaea (olive) 43, 200, pansy see Viola
moisture-loving plants 101, 104, N. ‘Tête-à-Tête’ 342 215, 298 Papaver (poppy) 151
333 N. ‘Thalia’ 342 Mediterranean gardens 16, P. orientale ‘Black and White’
Molinia nasturtium see Tropaeolum 157, 158, 165 332
M. caerulea subsp. arundinacea native plants 64, 99, 195, 220, Olearia macrodonta 303 Pape, Gabriella 154
‘Windspiel’ 88 221, 225, 238 olive see Olea papyrus see Cyperus papyrus
M. c. subsp. caerulea natural forms 45 onions (garden) 205 parsley see Petroselinum
‘Variegata’ 346 natural gardens 216–25 Ophiopogon crispum
Monarda case study 222–3 O. planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’ 346 parterres 37, 81, 126, 204, 205,
M. ‘Scorpion’ 244 natural hillsides 41 options, assessing 108–9 239
386/387 Resources
INDEX

formal gardens 135, 137, 138, Pennisetum alopecuroides 83, 347 Phlox perennials 282–3
139, 140 Penstemon P. paniculata ‘Balmoral’ 332 shrubs 282–3
Mediterranean 157 P. ‘Alice Hindley’ 332 P. p. ‘Norah Leigh’ 332 trees 280–1
Parthenocissus P. ‘Andenken an Friedrich Phormium 81, 94, 123, 187, 189 water features 98–9
P. henryana 320 Hahn’ 332 P. cookianum subsp. hookeri planting density 126, 127
P. tricuspidata ‘Veitchii’ 320 peony see Paeonia ‘Tricolor’ 195, 333 planting palette 84, 89, 122
Passiflora (passion flower) 84, perennial weeds 278, 286, 289 P. ‘Sundowner’ 191 planting plans 23, 113, 122–9
284 perennials 81, 82, 84, 85, 86, P. tenax 190 cottage gardens 154–5
P. caerulea 320 109, 152, 240 P. t. Purpureum Group 324 country gardens 244–5
paths 28–9, 45, 177, 225, 238, for architectural interest 323 Photinia x fraseri ‘Red Robin’ 303 cutting-edge gardens 254–5
243 for attracting wildlife 325 photographs, designing with 22, family gardens 214–15
bark 39, 271, 354 for containers 337 117, 122, 126 foliage gardens 194–5
brick 58, 149, 190, 199, 202, for damp conditions 333 Phygelius x rectus ‘African Queen’ formal gardens 144–5
205, 213, 262 early-flowering 327 314 Japanese-style gardens 184–5
cottage gardens 147, 149, 150 for fall color 97 Phyllostachys Mediterranean gardens 164–5
curves 28, 29, 38, 39 for foliage interest 331 P. aurea 185 Modernist gardens 174–5
edgings 262 late-flowering 329 P. aureosulcata var. aureocaulis natural gardens 224–5
grass 237, 239 medium-sized 326–33 347 productive gardens 204–5
gravel 39, 53, 58, 138, 147, 149, planting 282–3 P. nigra 194, 347 scale for 118
199, 205, 237, 238, 244, 261, shade-tolerant 335 P. n. f. henonis 254 sustainable gardens 224–5
263 small 334–7 P. sulphurea f. viridis 45 urban gardens 234–5
laying 262–3 for summer color 123 P. vivax f. aureocaulis 347 planting techniques 278–89
lighting 76 tall 322–5 Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Diabolo’ plantings
materials for 28, 29, 57, 352–5 for winter interest 53 308 in blocks 126, 168, 169, 170,
permeable 271 see also drifts, planting; New Picea (spruce) 171
in productive gardens 198, 199, Perennial Movement P. abies ‘Reflexa’ 315 changed seasonally 37
202, 205 perfume see scent P. breweriana 295 cottage gardens 147, 148–9
routes of 21, 28–9, 35, 39 pergola kits 261, 272–3, 361 P. pungens ‘Koster’ 295 formal near the house 126,
stone 58, 154, 199, 225, 352–3 pergolas 32, 34, 151, 215, 237, picket fences 33, 61, 147, 358 237
timber 31 361 Pieris 82, 182 informal 36
width 261 building 261, 272–3 P. japonica 308 Japanese gardens 177, 178–9
patio kits 354 materials for 64, 65, 235, 261, P. j. ‘Blush’ 308 Mediterranean 157, 160, 161,
patio ponds 362 272–3, 361 pine see Pinus 164–5, 248, 250
patios 59, 103, 109, 110, 111, 354 for privacy 110, 128, 228 pink see Dianthus Modernist gardens 167
care 265 for shade 158, 159, 361 Pinus (pine) 125, 175, 180 naturalistic 14, 86, 122, 126,
construction 261, 264–5, 354 periwinkle see Vinca P. mugo ‘Mops’ 315 224–5, 237
planting pockets 265 permeable hard surfaces 218, P. sylvestris ‘Aurea’ 295 in paving 29, 59, 147, 160
site for fragrant plants 123 220 P. wallichiana 293 structural 45
Paulownia tomentosa 295 Perovskia ‘Blue Spire’ 314 Pittosporum tenuifolium 303 see also drifts of plants;
pavers 58, 137, 248, 264–5 Persicaria planning controls 110, 111 prairie-style planting
paving 34, 58, 137, 140, 228, P. amplexicaulis ‘Firetail’ 332 planning permission 111, 259 plants
230, 248 P. bistorta ‘Superba’ 129, 332 plans 8, 21, 22–3 designing with 80–99
brick 237, 352 perspective 42, 43, 94, 116–17 bubble diagrams 21, 22, 25, selecting 84–5, 122–3
concrete 167, 169 false perspective 243 120, 126 understanding 82–3
cottage gardens 148 Perspex 53, 67, 247, 250 creating 112–29 platforms 40, 105
crazy 352 pesticides 217 cross-sections 23 play areas 12, 25, 33, 109, 132,
cutting curves into 265 pests 149, 198, 201, 203, 217, overhead plans 23 361
materials for 352–3 218, 282 symbols 22 family gardens 38, 207, 208–9,
plants in 29, 59, 147, 160 Petroselinum crispum (parsley) see also planting plans; scale 211, 213, 215
stone 137, 139, 145, 160, 163, 204 plans; site plans pleached trees 137, 138, 140,
174, 232, 237, 352–3 pH of soils, testing 102 planters 54, 170, 201, 235, 362, 142–3, 228–9, 230
terra-cotta 165 Phalaris arundinacea var. picta 347 363 polished concrete 168, 185
pear see Pyrus Phaseolus coccineus (runner planting 259 polished granite 54, 353
pebbles 53, 55, 59, 122, 254, 271 beans) 205 bare-root plants 279, 280 pollarded trees 295
glass 355 Philadelphus ‘Belle Etoile’ 308 climbers 284–5 polyanthus see Primula
Pelargonium Phlomis 240 container-grown plants 279, Polyanthus Group
ivy-leaved 16 P. fruticosa 314 280–1, 282 Polypodium interjectum
P. ‘Vancouver Centennial’ 164 P. russeliana 244, 332 hedges 280–1 ‘Cornubiense’ 337
Polystichum setiferum 195 hedges for 101 ramps 40, 41 243, 253, 254
ponds 210, 241, 261 pergolas for 110, 128, 228 random planting 126 RHS Garden Wisley (Surrey,
making 276–7 screens for 43, 84, 111, 194, Ranunculus UK) 201
margins 220–1 233 R. aquatilis 98 RHS Hampton Court Palace
materials for 66 privet see Ligustrum ovalifolium R. flammula 99 Flower Show (Surrey, UK)
patio ponds 362 Probert, Pip 63 reclaimed wood 53, 65, 68, 69, 193, 213, 247, 251
plants for 349 productive gardens 135, 225, 274 rhubarb see Rheum
safety 109, 207, 210 196–205 rectangular plots Rhus 97
siting 98 case study 202–3 measuring 114 R. typhina 299
for wildlife 66, 99, 105, 134, professionals 258, 261 site plans 115 Ribes sanguineum ‘Pulborough
208, 211, 219 see also contractors; rectilinear structure 120, 137, Scarlet’ 308
see also pools electricians; surveyors 167, 168, 230 rills 54, 138, 141, 158, 159, 162,
Pontederia 98, 237 proportion 36 recycled water 105, 288 243, 276–7
P. cordata 350 Provençal style 159, 160 recycled wood 53, 65, 69, 225, Roberts, Debbie 165
pools 14, 55, 101, 105, 152, 189, pruning 19, 72, 94, 178, 289 274 Robinia pseudoacacia ‘Frisia’ 295
234 cutting back 282, 289 recycling 217, 218, 219, 220, 361 Robinson, William (1838–1935)
cottage gardens 152 to allow in more light 111 water 105, 288 218, 238
country gardens 237, 239 Prunus 96, 97, 177, 179 recycling cupboards 361 rock gardens 83
formal 99, 138, 141, 237 P. x cistena 315 red chard 205 rock rose see Cistus;
infinity pools 167, 175 P. laurocerasus 129 red hot poker see Kniphofia Helianthemum
Japanese gardens 177, 184, 185 P. l. ‘Zabeliana’ 315 reflections, in water 55, 77, 139, rocks 178, 179, 180, 189, 250
materials for 66 P. ‘Mount Fuji’ 298 161, 167, 168, 169, 177, 185, Rodgersia 82, 88, 93
Mediterranean gardens 159, P. padus ‘Watereri’ 295 189, 234, 240–1 R. pinnata ‘Superba’ 351
160, 161, 164 P. serrula 298 reflective surfaces 254 role of the garden 12–13, 134
Modernist gardens 170, 171 P. spinosa 111 rejuvenating a mature garden Romneya coulteri ‘White Cloud’
raised pools 66 P. ‘Spire’ 298 108, 109 325
safety 109, 207, 210 P. x subhirtella ‘Autumnalis’ 97 relaxation 13, 76, 134, 153, 174, roof gardens 158, 226, 234
swimming pools 169, 191, 210 P. x s. ‘Autumnalis Rosea’ 299 204, 207, 214, 227, 235 roofs, green 183, 218, 219, 224,
see also ponds; reflections Pseudopanax crassifolium 192 religious influences 133, 179 360
poppy see Papaver Pseudososa japonica 194 Renaissance gardens 142 Rosa (rose)
Port Lympne (Kent, UK) 144, 145 Pulmonaria ‘Diana Clare’ 337 rendered concrete 64, 235 R. ‘Anna Ford’ 316
potagers 150, 198–9, 200, 205 pumps 66, 276, 277 rendered walls 42, 54, 60, 73, R. ‘Chianti’ 242
Potentilla 92 PVC liner 276–7 161, 189, 357 R. ‘Compassion’ 320
P. atrosanguinea 333 Pyracantha 111, 359 cutting-edge gardens 248, 249 R. ‘Félicité Perpétue’ 320
P. fruticosa ‘Abbotswood’ 315 P. ‘Saphyr Jaune’ 308 foliage gardens 193 R. ‘Geranium’ 308
P. f. ‘Dart’s Golddigger’ 92 Pyrus 198 Mediterranean gardens 162 R. ‘Golden Showers’ 321
P. f. ‘Goldfinger’ 315 P. salicifolia var. orientalis Modernist gardens 167, 170, R. ‘Golden Wings’ 316
pots 54, 164, 191, 248, 362, 363 ‘Pendula’ 299 171, 175 R. ‘New Dawn’ 128
terra-cotta 143, 158, 159, rendering 67, 357 R. ‘Pearl Drift’, syn. R. ‘Leggab’
161, 362
see also containers Q repetition 43, 132, 227
in planting 36–7, 42, 86, 150,
316
R. ‘Rambling Rector’ 245
powder-coated metal 363 Quercus ilex (holm/holly oak) 248 R. rugosa 359
powdery mildew 285 157, 229, 252, 293 rescued materials 147, 195 R. ‘Souvenir du Docteur
prairie-style planting 126, 132, quince, ornamental see see also reclaimed wood Jamain’ 129
238 Chaenomeles retaining walls 40, 64 R. ‘The Fairy’ 316
natural gardens 217, 218, 220, Rhamnus alaternus R. ‘Wildeve’,
221
pressure-treated timber 65, 261, R ‘Argenteovariegata’ 303
Rheum (rhubarb) 82
syn. R. ‘Ausbonny’ 316
see also roses
274 railings 41, 254, 357 R. palmatum ‘Atrosanguineum’ rosemary see Rosmarinus
Primula 96, 98 rainwater collection 105, 218, 351 officinalis
P. alpicola 351 219, 288 Rhodanthemum hosmariense 337 roses 19, 82, 149, 320
P. beesiana 351 raised beds 39, 53, 64, 230–1, Rhododendron 82, 96, 177 climbing 284, 285, 320–1, 361
P. ‘Inverewe’ 351 250, 261 R. ‘Golden Torch’ 315 ramblers 150, 284, 320
P. Polyanthus Group 145 making 261, 274–5 R. ‘Kure-no-yuki’ 315 standard 200
P. vialii 99 productive gardens 199, 200, R. luteum 303 see also Rosa (rose)
Pritchardia pacifica 195 201, 203 RHS Chelsea Flower Show Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary)
privacy 33, 111, 191, 193, 194, raised planters 201 (London, UK) 143, 153, 163, 157, 159, 316
215, 234 rambler roses 150, 284, 320 173, 183, 203, 223, 231, 233, Rothwell, Sara Jane 22
388/389 Resources
INDEX

Rousham Park House Sanguisorba canadensis 351 seaside gardens 83 evergreen 111, 317
(Oxfordshire, UK) 241 Santolina seaside theme: case study 25 for fall color 97
routes 21, 28–9, 31, 32 S. chamaecyparissus 92, 165, seasonal interest 84, 85, 86 fall- and winter-flowering
Rowe, Charlotte 144 254 seasonal planting 81, 96–7 315
Royer, Martin 107 S. pinnata subsp. neapolitana seating areas 52, 103, 110, 121, for focal points 301
rubber 247, 255, 355, 361 ‘Sulphurea’ 317 123, 225, 241 for foliage interest 307
shredded 355 S. rosmarinifolia 204 seats 52, 184, 208, 233, 250, 253 for groundcover 309
Rubus ‘Benenden’ 309 Sarcococca 97 arbor seats 361 for hot, dry sites 303
Rudbeckia 97, 221 S. hookeriana var. digyna 317 benches 154, 161, 175, 231, large 300–3
R. fulgida var. sullivantii S. h. var. humilis 184 234, 235 medium-sized 304–9
‘Goldsturm’ 333 Sassafras albidum 184 built-in 60, 71, 161, 228, 235 planting 282–3
R. laciniata ‘Goldquelle’ 333 Saururus 98 cottage gardens 148, 149, 150 positioning 126
R. occidentalis 244 scale 9, 26, 36 as focal points 68, 148, 237 for shade 305
runner beans 198, 200, 201, 205, of plans 118, 127 sunken seating areas 232 small 310–17
285 scale plans 115, 116, 117, 118–19, swing seats 33 for spring interest 311
rustic furniture 53, 68, 69, 70, 120–1, 126, 127 temporary 71 for summer color 313
149, 150, 219 Scampston Hall (North walls as 42 silver-leaved plants 82, 92, 159
Ruta graveolens 316 Yorkshire, UK) 241, 244 see also arbors; furniture; Sissinghurst (Kent, UK) 148, 151
Ryoanji (Japan) 179, 181 Scarpa, Carlo (1906–78) 155 seating areas Sisyrinchium
scent 15, 81, 84, 123, 343 security 73, 77, 111, 360 S. striatum 215

S bulbs, corms, tubers for 343

Schizophragma integrifolium 321
sedges 82, 344–7
see also Carex
S. s. ‘Aunt May’ 333
site plans 114–17, 122
S-shaped designs 38 Schoenoplectus lacustris subsp. Sedum 97, 241 Sitio Roberto Burle Marx (Rio
Sackville-West, Vita (1892–1962) tabernaemontani ‘Albescens’ green roofs 218, 219, 360 de Janeiro, Brazil) 190
151, 154, 238 99 S. ‘Matrona’ 333 Sitta, Vladimir 251
safety 41, 258 Schultz, Michael 248 S. ‘Vera Jameson’ 337 sketches 126
electrical 57, 66, 76, 78, 79 Schwartz, Martha 247 seeding a lawn 287 Skimmia x confusa ‘Kew Green’
play areas 25, 361 Scilla siberica 343 Seki, Haruko 184, 185 309
water features 98, 109, 207, scree 158 selecting plants 84–5, 122–3 slate 45, 59, 167, 175, 255, 353
210 screen walls 356 self-binding gravel 271, 355 chips 201, 271, 277, 355
sage see Salvia screens 34, 57, 60, 233, 238, self-seeding 126, 147, 155 sleepers 40, 274, 354
Sagittaria 98 239, 284, 358–9 Semini, Michel 159, 164, 165 slopes, materials for 64, 65
sails 43, 110, 231, 234 bamboo 33, 45, 53, 170, 359 Sempervivum tectorum 223, 337 sloping gardens 23, 40–1, 101,
St Catherine’s College (Oxford, for garbage cans 33 sense of mystery 28, 39, 165 102, 104–5, 182, 245
UK) 171 internal 15, 44 Serra, Richard 195 measuring 115
salad crops 198, 200, 201 materials for 60–1, 284, 358–9 services, identifying position of slugs 201, 282
Salix (willow) 95, 213 for play areas 33 104 small perennials 334–7
S. alba var. sericea 295 pleached trees 228–9, 230 setts (pavers) 54, 59, 149, 154, small shrubs 85, 88, 310–17
S. elaeagnos subsp. angustifolia for privacy 43, 84, 111, 194, 233 213, 352 small trees 296–9
129 temporary 43, 110 shade 33, 84, 103, 111, 122, 140, Smith, Ian 165
S. x sepulcralis ‘Chrysocoma’ transparent 42, 43, 44 163 smoke bush see Cotinus
295 and views 32, 33, 57 canopies for 34, 43, 110, 234 snails 201, 282
Salvia 92, 125, 151, 242 sculptural furniture 68, 71, 229 family gardens 212 snake’s head fritillary see Fritillaria
S. microphylla 316 sculptural plants 16, 94, 161, 171, Mediterranean gardens 157, meleagris
S. nemorosa 337 228, 248, 249, 253 158–9, 160, 161, 163 Sneesby, Richard 120, 121
S. n. ‘East Friesland’ 245 see also architectural plants perennials for 335 snowdrop see Galanthus
S. officinalis 92 sculptural structures 45 pergolas for 158, 159, 361 software packages 113, 121
S. o. ‘Purpurascens’ 316 sculpture 17, 72–3, 74–5, 161, plants for 82, 91, 93, 129, 212, softwoods 353, 354
S. o. ‘Tricolor’ 204, 317 163, 247, 248 305, 335 soil
S. x sylvestris ‘Mainacht’ 244 choosing 72 shrubs for 305 assessing 101, 102
S. uliginosa 325 commissioning 73 shades 46, 49 improving 101, 102, 218, 289
Sambucus concept gardens 253, 254 shadow 48, 167, 240, 248 soil types 102, 113, 122
S. nigra ‘Eva’ 309 country gardens 242 shape 9, 15, 81, 88, 122, 171 Solanum
S. racemosa ‘Plumosa Aurea’ as focal point 43, 73, 141, 228, shapes (ground shapes) 26–7 S. crispum 321
245, 309 237, 242 sheds 32, 33, 64, 65, 360 S. c. ‘Glasnevin’ 321
sand pits 25, 208, 210 scale and proportion 73 shells 271, 355, 356 S. laxum 321
sandstone 54, 250, 353 security issues 73 Shinto 179 S. l. ‘Album’ 321
sandy soils 82, 102, 104, 282, 289 sea holly see Eryngium shrubs 19, 81, 82, 102, 178 S. wendlandii 195
Solanum melongena 205 streams 66, 177, 182–3, 187, 239 T. ramosissima 303 Trachelospermum jasminoides 128,
solar lighting 57, 79 edging and lining 66 T. r. ‘Pink Cascade’ 303 235
Soleirolia soleirolii 59 Strelitzia 188 Tatton Park (Cheshire, UK) 181 Trachycarpus 189
Sophora japonica 163 stroll gardens 178, 181 Taxus (yew) T. fortunei 188, 190
Sorbus 87, 97 structural elements 44–5 T. baccata 129, 145, 293 Trachystemon orientalis 93
S. aria ‘Lutescens’ 299 structural plants 45, 81, 85, T. b. ‘Fastigiata’ 299 training plants 94, 284
S. commixta ‘Embley’ 299 86–7, 123 T. b. ‘Standishii’ 293 Trainor, Bernard 158
sound 142, 158, 159, 185, 189, structure 42–3, 109 tea ceremony 179, 183 transparent screens 42, 43, 44
213, 231, 249 structures 21, 44, 45, 109, 360–1 teahouses 182–3 travertine 142, 353
spaces 26, 27 building 260–77 tents and tepees 208, 209 Trebah (Cornwall, UK) 190
specimen trees 168, 180 materials for 64, 65 terracing 40–1, 105 tree ferns 187, 192, 193, 297
Spiraea Strybing Arboretum (San terra-cotta 157, 159, 160, 165, tree houses 211
S. cantoniensis 185 Francisco, US) 161 352 tree preservation orders 109
S. nipponica ‘Snowmound’ 309 Studio Lasso 185 pots 143, 158, 159, 161, 362 trees 19, 81, 82, 87, 178
spread of plants 86, 126, 279 Sturgeon, Andy 234, 238, 253 terrazzo 54, 175, 353, 362 espaliers 200
spring interest 96 succulents 122, 157, 158, 159, Teucrium chamaedrys 88 for evergreen interest 293
bulbs, corms, tubers for 339 183, 188 texture 14, 21, 54–5, 171, 254 for fall color 97, 299
climbers for 219 sugar maple 153 combining 54, 172 as focal points 295
shrubs for 311 summer bedding 89 materials 54–5, 227, 229 fruit trees 198, 199, 200
trees for 297 summer color 96, 123 plants 54–5, 88, 122, 140, 161, large 292–3
spruce see Picea bulbs, corms, tubers for 341 190, 233, 248 mature 109
Stachys climbers for 319 types of 54 medium-sized 294–5
S. byzantina 92 shrubs for 313 Thalictrum multistemmed 172
S. officinalis ‘Hummelo’ 244 sun-tolerant plants 82, 92 T. delavayi 88 planting 280–1
staking trees 280–1 sunflower see Helianthus T. flavum subsp. glaucum 325 pleached 137, 138, 140, 142–3,
standard roses 200 sunken gardens 232–3 Thompson, Jo 91, 153, 243 228–9, 230
statuary 72, 86, 139 sunny sites 82, 92, 103 thrift see Armeria maritima pollarded 295
steel 65, 67, 229, 248, 249, 254, surfaces Thuja plicata 94 positioning 86, 126
255 drainage 59, 104–5 Thymus (thyme) 92, 160 removing 109
edgings 141, 171 materials for 58–9, 352–5 T. citriodorus ‘Bertram and right to light 111
steppe planting 221 surveyors 23, 113, 114, 115, 116 Anderson’ 165 small 296–9
stepping stones 258, 261, 354 sustainable gardens 216–25 T. ‘Doone Valley’ 204 specimen trees 168, 180
Japanese gardens 177, 178, 179, sustainable materials 133, 217, Tilden, Philip (1887–1956) 145 for spring interest 297
180, 181 218, 219 tiles 67, 158, 159, 160, 161, 164, trellis 42, 43, 44, 61, 110, 284,
steps 40, 41, 181, 237, 245 sweet peas see Lathyrus odoratus 213, 352 285, 358
lighting 76 swimming pools 54, 168, 169, 1 decking tiles 354 triangulation 116, 117
materials for 65 87, 191, 210 Tilia (lime) 140, 229 Trillium
Stewartia sinensis 299 swings 25, 33, 215 T. x europaea ‘Pallida’ 143 T. g. ‘Flore Pleno’ 343
Stipa 171 symbolism 177, 178 timber 54, 64, 65, 67, 73, 187, T. grandiflorum 343
S. gigantea 143, 175, 347 symbols, for planting plans 22 189 Triteleia 96
S. tenuissima 185, 347 symmetrical layouts 21, 36–7 paths 31 Tropaeolum (nasturtium) 198
stone 67, 73, 142, 147, 177, 187, symmetry 36, 99, 137, 138, 139, pressure-treated 65, 261, 274 T. speciosum 321
207, 239, 258 140–1, 238 reclaimed 53, 65, 68, 69, 225, troughs 99, 362, 363
chippings 54 formal gardens 21, 26, 126, 274 Tsuga canadensis ‘Aurea’ 299
paths 58, 154, 199, 225, 352–3 132, 135, 142 sustainable 218, 219 tsukubai (stone water basins) 178
paving 137, 139, 145, 160, 163, Symphyotrichum see also FSC; wood tubers 338–43
174, 232, 237, 352–3 S. ‘Ochtengloren’ 325 time to devote to the garden Tulipa (tulip) 53, 92, 96, 173
wall panels 173 S. ericoides ‘White Heather’ 333 18–19 T. ‘Flaming Parrot’ 343
walls 54, 60, 64, 147, 168–9, S. novae-angliae ‘Andenken an tints 46, 49 T. kaufmanniana 92
171, 356 Alma Pötschke’ 333 tires 363 T. linifolia Batalinii Group 92
stone lanterns 176, 179, 181 Syringa vulgaris ‘Mrs Edward Tofokuji (Japan) 181 T. ‘Prinses Irene’ 343
stones 42, 178, 179, 180, 181 Harding’ 303 Toll, Julie 214 T. ‘Queen of Night’ 89, 343
Stopherd, Chuck 208 tomatoes 201, 203, 205 T. ‘Spring Green’ 343
storage 69, 70, 360, 361
strawberries 201 T Tomlin, Andrew Fisher 193
tones 46, 49
turf 139, 207
laying 286
strawberry pots 362 tall perennials 322–5 topiary 37, 44, 72, 87, 94, 95, Typha minima 351
strawberry tree see Arbutus tamarisk see Tamarix 139, 141, 142–3, 144, 147, 255
unedo Tamarix (tamarisk) 125 topsoil removal 259
390/391 Resources
INDEX

U formal gardens 137, 138, 139

from the house 126
Mediterranean gardens 160,
161, 162, 164
hurdles and screens 359
living 359, 360
umbrellas 110 Japanese gardens 177, 178, 179 planting 98–9 tree seats 70
Uncinia rubra 347 Villa Gamberaia (Italy) 141 positioning 98 see also Salix
understanding plants 82–3 Villa Noailles (Hyères, France) 171 safety 98, 109, 207, 210 Wilmott, Ruth 75
United States (U.S.) 168, 218 Vinca (periwinkle) see also cascades; fountains; Wilson, Andrews 175
University of Sheffield 218, 224 V. major 93 ponds; pools; rills; waterfalls Wilson McWilliam Studio 69
urban gardens 53, 129, 134, 215, V. minor 93 water plants 348–51 windbreaks 61, 84, 102, 123,
226–35 V. m. ‘La Grave’, syn. V. m. waterfalls 15, 66, 99, 187, 189, 200, 238
case study 232–3 ‘Bowles Blue’ 317 237 window boxes 16
formal 140, 144, 145 vine see Vitis Japanese gardens 180, 181 windy sites 102, 103
jungle style 9, 187, 188, 193 vistas 32–3, 38, 141 watering 279, 285, 288 winter interest 53, 84, 97, 123
kitchen gardens 201 visualization technique 122, 126 automatic irrigation 288 winter-flowering shrubs 315
microclimates 102, 133, 194 Vitis (vine) 157, 158, 205, 284, 361 when and how to 288 Wirtz, Jacques 240
urns 129, 139, 144, 362 V. coignetiae 321 waterlily see Nymphaea Wisteria 152, 284, 361
uses of the garden 12–13 V. vinifera ‘Purpurea’ 128, 321 weathering steel 65, 362 W. floribunda 321
weed supressants 283 W. f. ‘Macrobotrys’ 254

V W weeding 18, 19, 287, 289

hand weeding 289
W. f. ‘Multijuga’ 321
wood 54, 353, 357
Valeriana phu ‘Aurea’ 325 Wade, Charles (1883–1956) 154 spot weeding 287 pressure-treated 65, 261, 274
Vaux le Vicomte (France) 139, 141 wall planting 230 weedkillers 287, 289 recycled 53, 65, 68, 69,
vegetable beds 64, 148, 149, 275 wall shrubs 103, 284 weeds, perennial 279, 286, 289 225, 274
vegetable gardens 37, 134, 198, wallflowers see Erysimum weekend gardeners 18 see also FSC; timber
204, 205 walls 41, 42, 44, 284, 356–7 Weigela wood preservative 65, 353
ornamental plants 198 brick 48, 60, 64, 356 W. florida ‘Foliis Purpueris’ 317 wood stain 65, 360, 361
see also potagers; productive concrete 54, 64, 357 W. ‘Naomi Campbell’, woodland 237, 238
gardens coping 60 syn. W. ‘Bokrashine’ 128 woodland gardens 65, 72, 83,
vegetables 64, 135, 149, 202, 275 dry stone 54, 64, 214, 222, 356 Weihenstephan 224
planting in rows 199 living walls 44 University Garden (Freising, woodland-style plantings 96,
Verbascum 83, 125 materials 356–7 Germany) 221 103, 187, 222, 281, 283
V. ‘Cotswold Queen’ 325 Mediterranean gardens 157, Weisse, Rosemary 218, 221 working plans 22, 119
Verbena 158–9 Weller, Richard 251 workload 18–19
V. bonariensis 155, 191, 325 painted 160, 161, 164 Wendy houses 361 Wynniatt-Husey Clarke 175
V. venosa 145 planting in 60 West, Cleve 127, 163
Veronica 128
V. gentianoides 337
rendered see rendered walls
retaining walls 40, 64
West Dean (West Sussex, UK)
201 Y
V. ‘Shirley Blue’ 154 stone 54, 60, 64, 147, 168–9, Westpark (Munich, Germany) year-round interest 87, 97, 123
V. spicata subsp. incana 337 171, 356 221 yew
Veronicastrum timber 64 Wigandia (Victoria, Australia) hedges 73, 75, 123, 139, 145,
V. virginicum 325 Washingtonia robusta 250 190 155, 239, 241, 293
V. v. ‘Album’ 325 water 14, 54, 167 wildflower gardens 72, 125, 222, topiary 37, 94, 293
Versailles (France) 138, 139, 141 Japanese gardens 183 223 see also Taxus baccata
Versailles planters 363 Mediterranean gardens 158, wildlife 12, 133, 208, 237, 280 Yorkstone 144, 214, 239, 353
vertical planting 227, 230 159, 160, 161 cottage gardens 152 Yucca 94, 159, 249
Viburnum 96, 97 recycling 105, 288 Japanese gardens 183 Y. aloifolia 175
V. x bodnantense 309 reflections 55, 77, 139, 161, natural gardens 217, 218–19, Y. filamentosa ‘Bright Edge’ 317
V. x b. ‘Deben’ 309 167, 168, 169, 177, 185, 189, 220, 225
V. x burkwoodii ‘Anne Russell’
317
234, 240–1
for sound 142, 158, 159, 189,
water features for 98, 99, 101,
134, 207 Z
V. carlesii ‘Aurora’ 309 213, 231, 249 see also birds; habitats; insects Zantedeschia 99
V. davidii 317 water butts 105, 218, 219, 288 wildlife gardens, perennials for Z. aethiopica 351
V. opulus 185, 303 water features 17, 54, 57, 66, 325 Z. a. ‘Crowborough’ 175
V. plicatum f. tomentosum 178, 249, 258 wildlife ponds 66, 105, 134, 208, Zen gardens 177, 178, 179
‘Mariesii’ 94, 95, 309 containers for 161, 362 211, 219
V. tinus 165 cutting-edge gardens 251 wildlife walls 357
views 32–3, 38, 123 formal gardens 142, 143 Williams, Paul 129
borrowed views 33, 97, 180 lighting 76, 77 Williams-Ellis, Nick 193
country gardens 237, 238, 239 materials for 66–7 willow
About the contributors
Editor-in-Chief Authors
Chris Young is Head of Editorial for the Andi Clevely has worked in gardening for over 50 years
and is the best-selling author of The Allotment Book, as well
Royal Horticultural Society and Editor of its as over 20 other titles. He also writes for magazines and
members’ magazine, The Garden. He studied has twice been awarded Practical Journalist of the Year
landscape architecture at the University of by the Garden Media Guild. He lives in mid-Wales, where
he tends a wild garden and allotment on a rocky hillside.
Gloucestershire, England, and was Editor
of Garden Design Journal (UK), the magazine Jenny Hendy has a degree in botany and is an author,
garden designer, teacher, and presenter. She has written
for members of the Society of Garden books on a wide range of subjects, including design,
Designers, for five years. He has won two planting techniques, and topiary, and writes for the
Garden Media Guild awards for his writing, gardening press. She is a regular contributor to BBC
local radio and runs gardening workshops for adults
and is also author of Take Chelsea Home and children near her home in North Wales.
(Mitchell Beazley). Chris enjoys all aspects
of gardening and garden making, and is Richard Sneesby is a landscape architect, garden designer,
and lecturer, based in Cornwall, England, with over 25
currently working on his new garden on years’ experience in the design of private and public
the Northamptonshire/Rutland borders landscapes and gardens. He has presented a number of
in England. television series, writes regularly for the garden press,
and runs workshops for garden and landscape designers.

Paul Williams has spent a lifetime in horticulture, working

and designing with plants. Trained at Pershore College of
Horticulture, he has used his passion for plants and gardens
to build a thriving horticultural consultancy and design
practice. He has written several books on plants and
gardening, and lectures in the UK and Japan on gardening.

Andrew Wilson is a multi-award-winning garden designer,

Director of Garden Design Studies at the London College
of Garden Design, co-director of design practice Wilson
McWilliam Studio, and a lecturer and respected author.
Together with his design partner, Gavin McWilliam, he has
won a string of awards for his show gardens, both in the
UK and internationally. He is also a Fellow and former
Chairman of the Society of Garden Designers.
 REVISED EDITION

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