Hello Madtripper. Tolleson's branches will reach out on their own as this picture implies. Purchased this one several years ago with some damage but it is doing quite well now and filling out. Almost impossible to fine one in the nursery that does not have some damage. Most are damaged in shipment.

Dave

{{gwi:813912}}

J. scopulorum 'Tolleson's Blue Weeping'. Often looks like a dead stick with lichens hanging on it around here. More appealing with age, due to increased bulk.

Some that I have seen for sale around here are topped. I've actually been watching out for one that is not. That's a lovely specimen in a lovely setting, Dave. Looks like it was not topped?

Don't have one yet. Love 'em. They look like they were drawn by Dr. Seuss.

I had one for awhile and loved it but it didn`t live many years.

Does it need stacked forever or at some point can it be on it's own?

No, it's self-supporting. Maybe yours is rootbound. This is common with nursery stock, when I see a stake on something that isn't a climber (or quite small) I am immediately suspicious. Closer examination often reveals badly kinked roots.

Mine came with a heavy redwood-colored stake that my wife claimed was the most attractive feature of the tree. She thinks she's so damn clever. Shortly after planting it, my sister came down and promptly named this tree Snuffleupagus, after the Sesame Street character. I guess she thought it was so homely it was cute. Women!

I don't have one yet- was wondering for future possibilities

I love my TBW Juniper. It is my favorite tree in my garden (since it's the oldest).

Here is a pic of my tree that was taken on May 30, 2004. Don't let the scrawny look of the potted trees hinder your decision to plant one of these trees. As you can see, the tree fills out. I planted this tree in 1996 or 1997. I should take another photo since the tree has filled in quite a bit more since this picture was taken.

Mike

p.s. To get the trees to produce branches while potted, ALL of the Tolleson's are topped. Don't worry, in a couple of years you won't be able to tell that anything was done to the tree.
Mike

What topping produces is forks with narrow angles. Does anyone who has stopped and thought about it really think such a tree wouldn't branch without being topped?

For more on topic brought up by Mike...

Here is a link that might be useful: The Myth of Tree Topping, Part II - 'Landscape Trees Need To Be Topped To Develop Proper Branching'

My 'Tolleson's has never been topped and I question the need for it. Left to its own natural growing habits I think it produces the best results.
Like I said in my previous post finding a good one that is not damaged or topped will be the biggest challange. If you have a nursery farm close by that is growing it find one there and have it dug.

Dave

In my experience, Tolleson's doesn't dig well. Even with a large ball. The first year it has alot of transplant shock but usually in a couple of years it comes around just well. Which may account for the straggly look it takes on in nurserys while in container.

As far as I know, Monrovia is the only producer of Juniperus scopulorum 'Tolleson's Blue Weeping'. I have never seen a J. s. 'TBW' that was not in a Monrovia pot.

bboy,
I was simply stating a fact. Since these plants ARE topped while in production at the nursery, there is nothing we can do about it, unless we were to work at the nursery where these plants are being produced (Monrovia).

As your article states, all trees produced by the nursery trade will branch at some point, but most consumers WILL NOT buy a tree without some branching. Nurseries are in business to make money and a tree that doesn't sell will not continue to be produced.

It's an imperfect world we live in, but at this point, there is nothing we can do about it. (and don't say "just don't buy the plant" since there are too many people who will buy the plant and not know that anything is potentially wrong with the plant.)
My .02
Mike

I don't think so ksg1. Pots versus dug trees are entirely different ball games, but I know what you're saying.

Corrective pruning otherwise of course may need to be implemented however with any sheared tree. As bboy's link indicates, 'be patient.

Locally dug trees with similar soil structure, I'll bank on that any day of the week though.

Dax

I like that tree must be tough as its growing in
Minnesota.

I love this tree. I think they are one of the coolest trees I have ever seen. I could see them being used in perennial beds as a specimen planting. Something interesting to strike up coversations with people in your neiborhood.

Here is a link that might be useful: Miller Nursery Inc.

I live on the southern Chesapeake Bay in a house on pilings that faces south. Soil is sandy with clay beneath (I amend for everything).

I'd like to plant a Tolleson's weeping juniper next to the house (southeastern exposure) This photo may help - the tree would be on the right next to the stairs to the deck (where the law tractor is sitting).
http://www.harborhouselaw.com/photos/house1/pages/view.of.house.early.am.htm

Does anyone know about tolerance to windy conditions (wind is 20-25 mph out of the south today) that often goes on for days. The site is protected from northerly winds.

We have infrequent salt water flooding during tropical storms & hurricanes, usually short duration (less than 24 hours). Low-growing junipers and Eastern cedars do fine in these conditions. I don't know about Tolleson's.

I appreciate any advice - the tree is expensive and I don't want to kill it.
Many thanks

Strong winds in the 20-25 mph range will tangle the long hanging branches. In Kansas City we have that kind of wind in the spring time. I will get out there with a long piece of bamboo and seperate the branches after the wind storm to maintain the conifers striking appearance.
For this conifer to show well every branch has to hang straight down. You probably would not be happy with its branches in a constant state of entanglement with high winds that goes on for days.

Dave

Thank you - that is very useful info. The tree is absolutely incredible so your bamboo treatment is time well spent (from this observer's perspective).

Do you have suggestions re: a tree with similar attributes that is not as high maintenance? If not, I'll look for the tree - and a few long bamboo poles.

Other Options (salt tolerance should be very good)
Chamaecyparis nootkatensis 'Moon Shot'
Chamaecyparis nootkatensis 'Green Arrow'
Chamaecyparis nootkatensis 'Glauca Pendula'/'Pendula Glauca'

Dax

Juniperu scopulorum 'Candelabra' is excellent + the same color as 'Tolleson's Weeping'. More pendulous and dense. Very attractive.

Many thanks. I made a list of your recommendations and will look for them at our local nurseries. If I'm not successful, nurseries in Richmond have larger selections.

I thought it best to plant it before weather warms up but we have strong winds this time of year. The site is exposed and faces SSE. Currently, prevailing winds are NNW but that will soon change.

Do you have advise re: planting time /conditions? Protection?

Thanks again. I hope I can repay the favor.

I would plant now. If you are buying container grown plants remember to free up the root stock. This is critical. Stay away from soil amendments. If you are buying a larger specimen I would probably stake it for the first year so the strong winds don't blow it over. Go with full sun and no protection is necessary.

Dave

Dave, you say plant now, no soil amendments. I live in the Tidewater area of VA (low, coastal). Soil quality is not great - mainly sand over a thin layer of clay over more sand. Given that info, do you still recommend no soil amendments? Fertilizer?

Dax recommended Chamaecyparis nootkatensis 'Glauca Pendula'/'Pendula Glauca' and Juniperus scopulorum 'Candelabra' as alternatives to Tolleson's. Is planting advice the same re: no soil amendments for these species?

I am amazed by the wisdom on this forum. Many thanks for the advice.
Pam

Pam,
As a general rule, no soil amending when planting - ever.

Unless you can amend an area equivalent to the area that the mature plant's roots will cover, there is no point in amending the planting hole. The plant must grow in the native soil eventually, so there's no reason to make a small area of really good soil that the roots may not want to leave. And amending in clay soils may actually end up killing the plant.
Mike

Treelover:

I'm going to start a new thread on this topic because I doubt I'm the only person who has questions about soil amendments.

I've been hearing your advice recently - that amending soil may make it less likely that roots will reach out into surrounding unamended soil. In most circumstances, this makes sense. Yet this advice seems to be at odds with advice from local experts (like Andre and Mark Viette) who recommend specific fertilizers / amendments in specific amounts for new beds.

The soil around my house is mostly sand, so it drains fast and is very lean. The soil in the field behind my house has a greater proportion of clay - plants grow better there without extra help.

My question: Are there any exceptions to the no soil amendments rule? I really question any "one size fits all rule" but that is due to life experiences, not to my limited expertise in horticulture.

Hello Pam. My take on soil amendments is this. The roots to your newely panted conifer are going to jump from the planting hole to native soil in more or less then a year. So why spend your money on expensive admendments when they will have little or no value. I disagree that the root system will stay in amended soil because because there is nothing better to go to. Simply not the case.
Nurserys push amendments because there is big profit margins to be had. Save your money and go buy another conifer.
Ken on this forum grows every thing in pure sand. His planting techniqe is different but he is quite successful. Has the conifer garden to prove it.
Enjoy your sand and go plant.

Dave

Thanks, Dave,

I appreciate your reasoning. Makes sense. I'll just have to bite the bullet, plant, and see what happens.

You say Ken grows everything in pure sand. I assume he describes his techniques on the forum? I'll search. I have lots of sand (although beach sand probably isn't "pure sand")

You have offered encouragement and good advice. It's good to know that I can grow a variety of conifers and other trees in this environment. Thanks again.

Pam

Hello I have six tolleson weeping junipers I planted in early spring. They were very tired, picked them up from a nursery in Green Bay wis. They have improved a lot, the branches don't extend out to far yet but do seem to go out more as they thicken. They have no noticeable flowers, but lots of pollen in spring. usda cold hardiness zone 3-7 full sun

am looking for a tree i think looks (color) and smells like a weeping juniper. hangs like a weeping alaskan cedar.any help out there

I have to chime in on the soil ammendments.

The advice not to use them is just bad advice. The idea that tree roots will be "spoiled" by the good soil and not go further out is crazy. Tree roots do not think, they are not sentient, nor are they subject to emotions.

Fact is, tree roots regularly go through varying types of soil, even through concrete, old pipes, almost anything. You think if trees could think and decide to stay in improved soil they'd bust through driveways and sidewalks?

Now, in loose improved soil you might get more root growth, because it is loose soil and that makes it easier for roots to form, like if you were growing carrots or potatoes. This is not a bad thing certainly.

The notion that "Trees will outgrow it quickly" also doesn't make sense. You might equally say "Time release fertilizer is worthless because it only lasts 3 months." Sure, eventually, the improved soil will be less beneficial to the tree as it roots out, that doesn't mean it is not beneficial for the first years of growth (you know, that period where a tree is most vulnerable).

Personally I plant everything new in compost, and everything grows great. Compost is more fertile and more biologically active than other soils, and is only $1.50 a bag. I don't feel like I'm being ripped off buying it.

I think the notion that native unimproved soil is best is the result of someone's bad intuition decades ago that unfortunately caught on and no one really questions.