Garden Guide - Golden Acre Garden Sentre
Garden Guide - Golden Acre Garden Sentre
Garden Guide - Golden Acre Garden Sentre
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GArDen<br />
GUiDe<br />
620 Goddard Avenue ne<br />
(403) 274-4286<br />
www.goldenacre.ca<br />
GArDen <strong>Sentre</strong> $.99 SKU 480<br />
GOLDEN ACRE GARDEN GUIDE
StArt<br />
SAVinG<br />
toDAy<br />
Apply at the Customer Service Desk<br />
With your Green Thumb Club subscription, you can enjoy exclusive savings all across the store. It<br />
also entitles you to enjoy all our special money-saving promotions all year around. You just need to<br />
become a member to start enjoying the benefits.
Print management<br />
the PrintmAn,<br />
Calgary<br />
printman@nucleus.com<br />
ContentS<br />
Store informAtion.........................3-17<br />
AnnUALS...........................................18-34<br />
VeGetABLeS........................................40-46<br />
BULBS.................................................47-67<br />
PerenniALS........................................68-91<br />
HoUSePLAntS....................................93-105<br />
treeS AnD SHrUBS.............................106-133<br />
roSeS.................................................135-142<br />
LAWnS................................................147-149<br />
LAnDSCAPinG....................................150<br />
XeriSCAPinG......................................151-153<br />
SoiL...................................................154<br />
ComPoStinG....................................155<br />
nUtrientS.........................................157-161<br />
BirDS....................................162-163<br />
PeStS & ProBLemS.........................164-178<br />
CHriStmAS...............................179-181<br />
Store informAtion
Store informAtion<br />
HoW to finD US<br />
Calgary<br />
620 Goddard Avenue ne<br />
1 Block north from the corner of edmonton trial and mcKnight Blvd.<br />
Phone: (403) 274-4286<br />
edmonton tr. 4th St. n.e.<br />
Goddard Ave. Deerfoot tr.<br />
mcKnight Blvd.<br />
visit our website at www.goldenacre.ca
Store mAP<br />
BULK<br />
ProDUCtS<br />
LArGe<br />
CALiPer treeS<br />
SoD<br />
neW<br />
VeGetABLeS<br />
HerBS<br />
BULK<br />
ProDUCtS<br />
LArGe<br />
CALiPer treeS<br />
SoD<br />
neW<br />
LAnDSCAPinG<br />
SUPPLieS<br />
WHoLeSALe<br />
PerenniALS<br />
treeS<br />
SHrUBS<br />
eVerGreenS<br />
SoiL<br />
fertiLizer<br />
ADDitiVeS<br />
GArDen<br />
SUPPLieS<br />
SoiL<br />
fertiLizer<br />
ADDitiVeS<br />
tiLL<br />
eXit<br />
GArDen<br />
SUPPLieS<br />
SoiL<br />
fertiLizer<br />
ADDitiVeS<br />
ConCeSSion<br />
PArKinG<br />
foUntAinS<br />
SHoW room<br />
eXPreSS tiLL<br />
Pottery<br />
CUStomer<br />
SerViCe<br />
AnnUALS<br />
PLAnterS<br />
troPiCALS<br />
eXotiCS<br />
entrAnCe<br />
reSt<br />
roomS<br />
Store informAtion
GUArAnteeS<br />
<strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> <strong>Garden</strong> <strong>Sentre</strong>s Guarantee and return Policy<br />
GUArAntee PoLiCy<br />
1.<br />
2.<br />
3.<br />
4.<br />
Perennials are guaranteed up to the first frost of the season<br />
Tropicals are guaranteed for 30 days from the date of purchase<br />
Trees, Shrubs, Evergreens, and Shrub Roses are guaranteed for one (1) year from the date of purchase<br />
□ A Replacement Certificate will be provided for returned items<br />
Non-plant hard goods are guaranteed for 30 days from the date of purchase<br />
itemS not GUArAnteeD<br />
•<br />
•<br />
•<br />
•<br />
•<br />
Annual Plants<br />
Seasonal Flowering Tropicals<br />
Tea Roses<br />
Cedars<br />
Holiday Merchandise<br />
retUrn PoLiCy<br />
1.<br />
2.<br />
3.<br />
4.<br />
5.<br />
6.<br />
Customer must have a valid receipt for any returned items (no exceptions)<br />
Returns less than $5 will receive Cash Back<br />
Returns greater than $5 will receive <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> Gift Card<br />
Purchases with a Replacement Certificate are final sale and not guaranteed<br />
Items not deemed resalable will not be returned<br />
<strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> reserves the right to deny any returned merchandise if it is deemed to be misused, abused, or carelessly<br />
treated<br />
DeLiVery SerViCe<br />
• <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> <strong>Garden</strong> <strong>Sentre</strong>s is glad to deliver any of your large purchases such as trees, shrubs, house plants, bird baths,<br />
fountains, or other concrete products.<br />
• A general delivery service charge applies to most deliveries, consisting of any number of items, which are delivered to the same<br />
address within the city limits.<br />
• A higher delivery service charge applies to patio furniture and fountains which are leveled and set up upon delivery to the same<br />
address.<br />
• Deliveries cannot be specified to arrive in the morning or afternoon on a specific day. We will guarantee that your delivery will<br />
arrive between 9am-9pm on the specified day of delivery.<br />
• Due to the seasonality of our business the frequency of our delivery service varies periodically. Please check with sales staff<br />
you for specific delivery days.<br />
• Special instructions on where delivery items can be placed in your yard are to be indicated on the delivery form at the time of<br />
purchase.<br />
It is not necessary that you be home when your delivery arrives. Your delivery items will be placed in your yard as you requested<br />
at the time of delivery. If no special instructions were given at the time of purchase our driver will place your delivery items in the<br />
most appropriate available location.<br />
• Occasional problems do occur with deliveries. Please notify <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> within 24 hours if you experience any difficulties with<br />
your delivered items.<br />
Store informAtion
Store informAtion<br />
CCHt/LAntA CertifiCAtion<br />
Aaron Barb<br />
Carol Donna<br />
Jeanette Kelly<br />
Ken Liana<br />
Nancy Pavlina<br />
<strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> <strong>Garden</strong> <strong>Sentre</strong>s Ltd. Calgary is proud<br />
to announce that we have the greatest number of<br />
Canadian Nursery Trades Association/ certified<br />
Horticultural Technicians in Western Canada. In<br />
order to serve you better and to fulfill our mission<br />
statement every year staff members train for the<br />
nationally recognized CNTA program. Each of our<br />
staff members who has taken and passed this course<br />
underwent rigorous testing in both practical and<br />
applied knowledge across a wide range of subjects<br />
such as plant identification and care, pest and plant<br />
pathology, fertilizing, and so on. All our staff members<br />
who have attained this high level of horticultural<br />
training are listed to the left . Ask them any question<br />
you may have; their knowledge base is broad and if<br />
they do not know the answer they will know who does.<br />
Congratulations to all who have acheived this honour!
GiftS &<br />
Home<br />
DeCor<br />
At <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> <strong>Garden</strong> <strong>Sentre</strong> and Gifts you can find<br />
everything you need for the perfect christmas. And that<br />
includes the perfect gift.<br />
In our Giftware Department we carry a variety of gifts<br />
ideal for both the home and garden. We have racks of<br />
stunning artwork, realistic artificial flowers, decorative<br />
containers, hand & body lotion, and anything else you<br />
might need (or want).<br />
Our stock is constantly changing, and we are always<br />
receiving new and unique giftware. Come in and see<br />
our amazing selection for yourself.<br />
Store informAtion
Store informAtion<br />
10<br />
WorKinG WitH<br />
oUr CommUnitieS<br />
Calgary Children’s Foundation<br />
The Calgary Children’s Foundation has always been one of <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong>’s favorite charities. We have supported<br />
the Children’s Foundation for over 20 years and donated over $300,000. Wade Hartwell, founder of <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong>,<br />
is even a director of the foundation. During May, designated Arbor Month, we donate $1.00 from every tree sold<br />
at both the North and South Calgary store to the Calgary Children’s Foundation. At Christmas we hold a Black Tie<br />
Gala from which all proceeds of a silent auction go to the Children’s Foundation. Also during Christmas we donate<br />
$1.00 from every live tree and $5.00 from every everlasting tree over six feet tall that we sell.<br />
Olds College Foundation<br />
<strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> is a big supporter of the Olds College Foundation, improving education in our industry and agriculture<br />
in Alberta. Projects we have worked on are the development of an indoor teaching centre and the Olds College<br />
Arboretum.<br />
Our Community<br />
In addition to these programs, <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> assists literally hundreds of community organizations in a number of<br />
ways. We are always willing to help schools through donations of plant material for educational purposes, goods<br />
for fundraising raffles, and beautification projects. <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> helps out more than 400 organizations including<br />
churches, sports teams, community associations, and performing arts groups by donating items for raffles,<br />
money raising activities, and so on. For the past few years we have been proud to support the Dean House, Fort<br />
Calgary, and the Okotoks Community Center by supplying plants for their extensive gardens. Finally, and perhaps<br />
most importantly, <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> is committed to education. We assist schools in fundraising and by supplying plant<br />
material for learning purposes.
Store informAtion
Store informAtion<br />
12<br />
LAnDSCAPe ConSULtAnt<br />
DAn SinCLAir<br />
If you have landscaping in mind for this year and don't know where to begin, <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> offers a landscaping<br />
consulting service. Our consultant, Dan Sinclair, has been in the horticultural industry for over 30 years. For a<br />
fee he will offer recommendations regarding placement of structutral elements, and planting advice. He will also<br />
make suggestions regarding evergreens, colorful trees and shrubs, perennial flowers, shade planting, seasonal<br />
flowering, annuals, and ground covers.<br />
Dan can help with trouble-shooting your garden. If you have any questions about pests, problems, or diseases<br />
he will be able to assist you from an Integrated Pest Management point of view. He is also available to give advice<br />
on pruning and tree care.<br />
to ArrAnGe An APPointment CALL:<br />
274-4286
CALGAry’S<br />
GArDen Center<br />
SinCe 1967<br />
GArDen <strong>Sentre</strong>
Store informAtion
Store informAtion<br />
16<br />
ALBertA PLAnt HArDineSS<br />
zone mAP
LoCAL<br />
HortiCULtUrAL SoCietieS<br />
We at <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> <strong>Garden</strong> <strong>Sentre</strong>s Ltd. are proud of<br />
the diversity and enthusiasm of local gardening groups<br />
and are aware of the benefits they bring to the horticultural<br />
milieu of Calgary and southern Alberta. They are<br />
an exceptional group of people involved in exceptional<br />
groups! Above all they love gardening and growing by<br />
their own hands and for this they should be recognized.<br />
To help promote the individual groups and to encourage<br />
the diversity of our horticultural community we would like<br />
to try to mention most of the societies active in southern<br />
Alberta. If you belong to a horticultural society that you<br />
think should be listed here, please give us a call at (403)<br />
274-4286.<br />
WeBSiteS<br />
Calgary Horticultural Society<br />
208-50 Ave S. Calgary, AB<br />
403-287-3469 Fax: 403-287-6986<br />
E-mail: office@calhort.org<br />
http://www.calhort.org<br />
Calgary Rock and Alpine <strong>Garden</strong> Society<br />
http://www.crags.ca<br />
Calgary Rose Society<br />
E-mail: info@calgaryrosesociety.com<br />
http://www.calgaryrosesociety.com<br />
Foothill Orchid Society<br />
E-mail: foothillsorchidsociety@shaw.ca<br />
http://members.shaw.ca/foothillsorchidsociety/<br />
Stampede City African Violet Society<br />
E-mail: violets@telus.net<br />
http://www3.telus.net/scavs<br />
McKenzie Towne <strong>Garden</strong>ing Club<br />
http://www.mckenzietownegardeningclub.com<br />
LANTA<br />
Landscape Alberta Nursery Trades Association,<br />
10215 - 176 Street, Edmonton, Alberta T5S 1M1<br />
Phone: (780) 489-1991, Fax: (780) 444-2152<br />
http://www.landscape-alberta.com<br />
Petals <strong>Garden</strong> Club - Okotoks, AB<br />
http://www.petalsgc.shawbiz.ca/petals/<br />
Morinville <strong>Garden</strong> Club - Morinville, AB<br />
http://www.petalsgc.shawbiz.ca/mgc/<br />
Store informAtion<br />
1
AnnUALS<br />
1<br />
AnnUALS yoUr qUeStionS<br />
Q: What is that white powdery substance on the top of<br />
my begonia? Rose? Impatiens leaf?<br />
A: Powdery mildew is the name of this fungus that attacks the<br />
upper leaf structure of begonias, roses, chrysanthemums,<br />
and impatiens. It starts out as white spotting which,<br />
with time, forms a white mass on the leaf. This is due to<br />
high humidity coupled with poor air circulation around a<br />
stressed plant. Watch your planting space so plants are<br />
not so close as to be overcrowded when mature;<br />
avoid watering at night. When powdery mildew<br />
is at it’s beginning phase,<br />
spray with a fungicide<br />
like Funginex, following<br />
directions on the bottle.<br />
Q: My peppers have<br />
little tiny green bugs on<br />
the tips of the plant. What<br />
are they?<br />
A: These bugs are called<br />
aphids, sucking insects<br />
which are born pregnant.<br />
Unfortunately, peppers<br />
and aphids seem to go<br />
hand-in-hand. The best<br />
control is to start out with<br />
a clean, weed-free growing<br />
area. Secondly, during the<br />
growing phase, spray with<br />
Safers Soap or Trounce<br />
every two weeks for a<br />
constant control. Ensure<br />
that you rinse the spray off<br />
the plant the following day<br />
or damage may occur over<br />
time.<br />
Q: My tomatoes and/or<br />
peppers have a sunken<br />
soft black spot on their bottom.<br />
What is it?<br />
A: Blossom end rot is the name of<br />
this problem, brought on by one or a<br />
combination of these factors:<br />
-Insufficient calcuim in the soil<br />
-Excess nitrogen, magnesium, potassium, or<br />
sodium has been applied as a fertilizer. This interferes<br />
with calcium absorption.<br />
-Very wet or very dry conditions interfere with the<br />
uptake of calcium.<br />
To reduce the possibility of blossom end rot maintain soil pH<br />
around 6.5. The lime in our soil adds calcium but it cannot<br />
be absorbed by the plant unless the soil is less alkali.<br />
Watering with rain water will help as it is neither alkali nor<br />
acidic and adding sulphur to the soil will reduce alkalinity.<br />
Avoid drought stress and wide fluctuations in soil moisture<br />
by mulching or watering consistently. To avoid moisture<br />
stress apply enough water to wet all the soil in the root<br />
zone when the soil is dry several inches down, depending<br />
on the pot size.<br />
Q: What annuals bloom late in the season?<br />
A: Good annuals for late summer flowering are zinnia,<br />
cosmos, cleome,salvia, sunflower, and morning glory.<br />
Q: My plants are so leggy, long, and spindly. What<br />
can I do?<br />
A: Cut or pinch the soft tissue of the plant’s<br />
main stem, removing up to 50% of the<br />
overall plant’s height. Increase the light<br />
availability if inside the house. Fertilize<br />
the plant with an all-purpose fertilizer<br />
following the instructions for that<br />
particular fertilizer.<br />
Q: I have what look like<br />
little white flies covering the<br />
underneath leaves of my fuchsia.<br />
What are they?<br />
A: As the description of the insect<br />
implies, they are known as white<br />
flies. From egg, larvae, pupae to<br />
adult, they reside on the underneath<br />
portion of the leaf. If a small<br />
infestation is present, even a quick<br />
manual wiping off will control the<br />
problem. Total removal of the leaf<br />
or leaves during the egg,<br />
larvae and pupae stage is<br />
the easiest. Yellow sticky<br />
strips attract and catch the<br />
adult. Use of the chemicals such as<br />
Trounce or Safers Soap as per label<br />
directions coupled with the above<br />
manual control may<br />
work. Many beneficial<br />
insects like lacewings<br />
and ladybugs feed on<br />
whiteflies. Care must be taken<br />
when applying pesticides so as<br />
not to inadvertently destroy good<br />
insects.<br />
Q: I have a fuchsia that has little berrylike<br />
structures forming on the tips where<br />
the flowers used to be.What are they?<br />
A: The berry-like structures are the seed pods, which form<br />
after the flowers were pollinated. It would be best to remove<br />
the pods to send all the energy into more blooms. Pinching<br />
or cutting off can be easily done.<br />
Q: I planted my annuals yesterday during the day; today,<br />
they are like limp little noodles. What’s happening?<br />
A: This may be transplant shock. Transplanting on a cool<br />
or overcast day, avoiding the hottest part of the day to do
the actual planting would be less stressful on the young<br />
plants. Watering the plants thoroughly with a final soaking<br />
in with a high phosphorous fertilizer would cushion the<br />
roots protecting them from their new surroundings.<br />
Q: I woke up this morning to find white, droopy leaves<br />
on my petunias. What’s wrong?<br />
A: Frost may have touched them; typically a papery, thin,<br />
white leaf structure is synonymous with frost damage. If the<br />
whole plant has toppled over it may be too late to revive. If<br />
it’s just the leaves it will regrow but protect the plant from<br />
future frost damage by using a frost blanket. This sort of<br />
damage may also be from too much heat or too little soil<br />
moisture; be sure to evaluate the situation.<br />
Q: How do I prepare my soil for planting annuals?<br />
A: In the spring, before planting, turn the soil of your beds<br />
to a depth of 6-12” (15-30 cm). Loosen heavy clay soil by<br />
adding peat moss and/or compost and zeolite. You can<br />
also add slow release fertilizer like Vigoro Pink (8-12-16).<br />
Rake bed smooth and you’re done!<br />
Q: How do I look after my plants before I plant them?<br />
A: If you are unable to plant your bedding out plants the<br />
day you purchase them make sure to water them well and<br />
place in the shade. If frost is expected, keep indoors in a<br />
well-lit location and water as needed. The ideal planting<br />
time would be a cloudy evening but if you have to plant on<br />
a sunny day water immediately after planting. Also, be sure<br />
to use a rooting fertilizer like Plant-prod 10-52-10 or Plant<br />
Start 5-15-5.<br />
Q: How often should I water my hanging baskets?<br />
A: There are a number of factors contributing to the rapid<br />
drying of hanging baskets – size of the pot, the exposure<br />
to wind, air, and sun, and the tendency of hanging plants<br />
to get root bound. Because of this, hot days can be a<br />
real problem; you may have to water 2-3 times per day.<br />
Normally simply water when the soil is dry to the touch.<br />
There are water-conserving soils available which can help<br />
reduce the amount of watering. The addition of zeolite can<br />
also help as it will lock in moisture. Both of these products<br />
only help the soil conserve moisture; on hot days you will<br />
still need to check the soil often.<br />
Q: When is the best time to water plants?<br />
A: Ideally watering should be done in the early morning.<br />
This lets the plants soak up water thoroughly. Watering in<br />
the afternoon, especially during hot weather, can cause<br />
damage to the plant leaves. Water can sit in drops on the<br />
leaves, effectively acting like little magnifying glasses and<br />
burning the plant tissue. Watering late in the day allows<br />
the water to sit over night and can promote disease and/or<br />
fungus problems like powdery mildew.<br />
Q: What is the best date to plant my annuals?<br />
A: In the Calgary area we have a notoriously unpredictable<br />
spring. Because of this we generally recommend that you<br />
plant your annuals on the first weekend of June. If you<br />
purchase them before this date please follow the above<br />
instrucions regarding keeping bedding out plants alive in<br />
their containers.<br />
Q: How much fertilizer should I use on my flowers and<br />
how often should I fertilize?<br />
A: This depends on the type of fertilizer you are using. As<br />
a general rule liquid/water soluble fertilizer can be applied<br />
every 2-4 weeks. There are specific annual fertilizers<br />
available that encourage blooming. Look for a high middle<br />
number (15-30-15 or 10-52-10). You can also use Smartcote<br />
slow-release granular fertilizers designed for annuals and<br />
hanging baskets. Simply turn fertilizer into the soil when<br />
you plant. Other granulated fertilizers are available and<br />
can last up to 3 months, though occasional supplemental<br />
fertilizing with a water-soluble fertilizer is recommended.<br />
Q: What does deadheading mean and is it important?<br />
A: Deadheading is the process of removing spent flower<br />
heads from the plant to encourage further blooming. The<br />
seeds would form where the dead flowers were if they were<br />
pollinated and the plant would focus most of its energy<br />
towards seed production instead of flowering. Removing<br />
dead flowers also helps reduce the risk of diseases such<br />
as Botrytis.<br />
Q: What would be the best annuals for cut-flower<br />
gardening?<br />
A: The most popular flowers for cut-flower gardening are<br />
as follows: snapdragon, calendula, cosmos, gypsophila,<br />
sweet pea, zinnia, celosia, aster, sweet william, sunflower,<br />
and bachelor’s button. Cut the flowers early in the morning<br />
and immediately place in lukewarm water. Cut off all the<br />
leaves below the waterline to reduce bacterial and odour<br />
problems.<br />
Q: I heard on the news that we are going to have a<br />
frost and I have planted my annuals already. What can<br />
I do?<br />
A: The best defense against frost on tender annuals is<br />
waiting to plant until either the May long weekend or the first<br />
weekend of June. However, we do live in Calgary and the<br />
weather can be quite unpredictable. Covering your annuals<br />
with blankets or frost protection products like Remay fabric<br />
will certainly help. Obviously, if it is in a container bring it<br />
indoors for the night. Take care not to use plastic coverings<br />
if you can help it. If it is unavoidable definitely keep the<br />
plastic from touching the leaves of the plant.<br />
AnnUALS 1
AnnUALS<br />
20<br />
AnnUAL fAVoriteS<br />
We would like to share with you some of our favorite<br />
tried and true plants that work well or are very popular in<br />
Calgary every year.<br />
Alyssum<br />
This annual flowers from early spring until the first frost,<br />
making it one of the most useful border plants. Masses of<br />
dainty, fragrant blue, pink, or white flowers are produced on<br />
2 in.(5cm) plants. This annual does well in sun or partial<br />
shade. Space alyssum 6-8 in.(15-20cm) apart to create<br />
a carpet of color.<br />
Coleus<br />
This rapidly growing foliage plant can also be used as a<br />
houseplant. Pinch back the terminal buds of a 12-14 in.<br />
(30-35cm) tall plant to produce a very full multicolored<br />
accent plant for shady areas.<br />
Dracaena Spike<br />
These vase-shaped foliage plants have grass-like leaves<br />
that cascade as the plants mature. Dracaena makes a<br />
great centerpiece in containers or formal flowerbeds.<br />
Fuchsia<br />
Fuchsias are weeping woody plants grown here as annuals.<br />
These attractive plants have large glossy leaves and<br />
produce exquisite bell-shaped single or double-pink flowers<br />
in purple, mauve, pink, or red. They are often bi-colored<br />
with combinations of these colors with white centers.<br />
Place these hanging baskets in partially shaded locations<br />
and keep them consistently moist throughout the growing<br />
season. These plants can be over-wintered indoors.<br />
Alyssum<br />
Coleus<br />
Dracaena Spike Fuchsia<br />
Lobelia<br />
Impatiens<br />
The bright green, shiny leaves of this plant are attractive<br />
indoors as a houseplant or outdoors as an easy to grow<br />
annual. This 8-10 in.(20-25cm) tall annual produces an<br />
abundance of salmon, pink, white, or red flowers. Plant<br />
in partial or full shade, spacing the seedlings 18 in.(45cm)<br />
apart and keep the soil evenly moist.<br />
Lobelia<br />
There are two basic varieties of lobelia: trailing and upright.<br />
The trailing variety looks especially good cascading over<br />
the edge of a planter box. This profusely blooming annual<br />
grows 6 in.(15cm) upright and trailing 12 in.(30cm).<br />
Lobelia produces a mass of dainty blue, purple, white, or<br />
red colored flowers.<br />
Marigold<br />
Available in numerous heights, each variety produces<br />
a wide range of colors from bright yellow and orange to<br />
bronze and reddish-brown. Plant marigolds in full sun,<br />
spacing the seedlings 12-14 in.(30-35cm) apart.<br />
Nasturtium<br />
Nasturtiums can be planted in either flower beds or hanging<br />
containers. They grow in a mounded fashion with round,<br />
smooth leaves. Dwarf varieties are 8-10 in.(15-25cm) tall<br />
while taller varieties can grow to 24 in. (60cm) tall. The<br />
2 in.(5cm) white blossoms come in white, salmon, yellow,<br />
orange, or red colors and have a strong fragrance. Plant<br />
this annual in full sun or partial shade, spacing the seedlings<br />
8 in.(20cm) apart.<br />
Impatiens<br />
Marigold<br />
Nasturtium
Osteospermum<br />
Also known as African daisy, this tender plant produces<br />
masses of large 4 in.(10cm) flowers which are excellent<br />
for cutting. White, yellow, salmon, and rose colored<br />
flowers are produced on a 12 in.(30cm) tall plant. Plant<br />
osteospermum in a sunny location in dry soil and space<br />
6in.(15 cm) apart.<br />
Pansy<br />
Pansies are a flexible annual/perennial that can be found<br />
in a wide assortment of colors. Pansies are extremely frost<br />
tolerant so they do well in the early spring and with attention<br />
can bloom well into the fall. They thrive in cool moist<br />
soil. Sunnier locations will produce more flowers, although<br />
hot positions are not recommended. Pansies are good for<br />
borders, beds, edging, and container gardening. Do not<br />
allow them to dry out in hot weather.<br />
Petunia<br />
Petunias are the most popular annual because they require<br />
little care to produce masses of flowers all summer long.<br />
Petunias produce 2-4 in.(5-10cm) wide, trumpet shaped<br />
flowers and are available in an endless number of colors.<br />
The large, showy flowers and the low maintenance required<br />
to keep them growing and producing flowers makes the<br />
Grandiflora petunias the most popular. Multiflora petunias<br />
have smaller flowers but make up for it in the number of<br />
flowers they produce. Multiflora petunias are available<br />
in more colors and shapes than the Grandifloras – starshaped<br />
and striped varieties are available.<br />
Osteospermum<br />
AnnUAL fAVoriteS<br />
Portulaca<br />
Portulaca grandiflora consists of bright flowers that look<br />
like tiny roses. Portulaca oleracea is a single petal trailing<br />
plant on a woodier stem used for enhancing hanging<br />
baskets and containers. Portulaca does require a hot and<br />
sunny location.<br />
Snapdragon<br />
This familiar plant creates large masses of color in any<br />
flower bed. Each flower is like a colorful butterfly, making<br />
them excellent for cutting. Large heads of lightly fragrant<br />
flowers are produced on tall, medium, or dwarf snapdragon<br />
varieties. Tall varieties grow 24-30 in.(60-75cm) tall requiring<br />
support and produce white, red, yellow, orange,<br />
bronze, cherry, pink, and rose flowers. Medium varieties<br />
grow 18-24 in.(45-60cm) tall and produce scarlet, crimson,<br />
yellow, orange, white, pink, cherry, or mixed colored flowers.<br />
Dwarf varieties grow 6-8 in.(15-20cm) tall and come<br />
in mixed colors. Snapdragons are heat-tolerant and should<br />
be planted in rich, well-drained soil.<br />
Pansy Petunia Portulaca<br />
Snapdragon<br />
AnnUALS 21
AnnUALS<br />
22<br />
AnnUALS ContAiner GArDeninG<br />
In recent years container gardening has become very<br />
popular mainly because this sort of gardening is both attractive<br />
and convenient. Containerized gardening is perfect<br />
for those with little or no garden space such as people living<br />
in apartments, condominiums, or small lots. This form of<br />
gardening is appealing to anyone with little time to spend<br />
cultivating, weeding, fertilizing, etc. Even though the same<br />
or more attention must be paid to container gardens, it<br />
takes less time and some jobs (like weeding) are greatly<br />
reduced. <strong>Garden</strong>ing this way is more economical in the<br />
long run; you will require less water, less soil, less fertilizer,<br />
and so on. Container gardening is ideally suited for those<br />
with limited mobility like the elderly or disabled who wish<br />
to grow a beautiful garden or their own vegetables but<br />
are unable to do so in the conventional manner. Finally,<br />
container gardens simply look good and many gardeners<br />
use them to supplement their own garden beds.<br />
Containers<br />
There are a wide variety of container types available for<br />
planting. What must be remembered is that they all require<br />
decent drainage holes (if this is impossible then a layer of<br />
rocks or Styrofoam peanuts at the bottom of the pot will<br />
work if a layer of fiberglass screen or landscape fabric<br />
is added on to prevent soil and plant roots from growing<br />
amongst the rocks) or the soil may retain water and roots<br />
can begin to rot. Drainage can be increased by raising<br />
the pot off the ground an inch or so with 'feet', wedges, or<br />
blocks. It is also important to keep in mind that the top of the<br />
plant is usually proportionate to the roots. Therefore, large<br />
tomatoes require a large pot otherwise they can become<br />
root-bound and will require constant watering.<br />
Wood is a very popular form of container because it is<br />
attractive, fairly lightweight, and blends in well with most<br />
homes. Woods like cedar provide some resistance to rot<br />
and are usually the best to use. Try to stay away from pressure<br />
treated woods or railroad ties as they emit chemicals<br />
that are harmful to plants.<br />
Clay, terracotta, and ceramic containers are often used.<br />
Indeed, few things look nicer than an herb garden or annual<br />
arrangement in a terracotta pot. The main drawback of<br />
ceramic is that it wicks water away from the soil because it<br />
is porous. As a result they may have to be watered more often.<br />
Always bring ceramic pots indoors or store somewhere<br />
dry during in the fall; our winter weather with its cycles of<br />
freezing and thawing can quickly destroy these pots.<br />
Another commonly used type of container is plastic. These<br />
are light, inexpensive, and usually have pre-drilled drainage<br />
holes (and if they don't it is easy to make your own).<br />
Be careful not to use dark or black pots for sun-loving<br />
plants. The dark color absorbs light and heats the soil,<br />
increasing water evaporation.<br />
If a permanent location has been selected, large containers<br />
made of concrete, iron, or metal can be used but always<br />
make sure they have proper drainage. A similar look can<br />
be achieved with lightweight foam pots.<br />
Soil<br />
Generally, it is not a good idea to use garden soil or top soil<br />
for containers planting. The high clay content of garden soil<br />
DeSiGn LAyoUt of A miXeD PLAnter<br />
Center Area<br />
Middle Area<br />
Edge Area<br />
Center Area Middle Area Edge Area<br />
Plant the tallest or largest<br />
plants to act as the focal point<br />
of your planter. Use one or<br />
two plants here. You can try<br />
canna lilies, tall marigolds,<br />
or the traditional dracaena<br />
spikes.<br />
Use lots of colorful plants with<br />
a ‘mounding’ growth habit to<br />
fill your container and provide<br />
early color. Try geraniums,<br />
pansies, petunias or any number<br />
of things. Be creative!<br />
Choose at least two differemt<br />
trailing plants to add texture<br />
and to soften the look of the<br />
container. Try bacopa, trailing<br />
lobelia or any plants with a<br />
trailing habit.
will not provide adequate drainage and is not conducive<br />
to root growth. If allowed to dry out, garden soil separates<br />
from the side of the pot and is hard to re-wet. Container<br />
plants should be grown in a light, airy soil capable of holding<br />
water and nutrients while at the same time draining<br />
easily. It is best to use a soil-less potting mix made up of<br />
peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite. There are even some<br />
mixes that are made specifically for container garden with<br />
moisture-retaining crystals and/or wetting agents. Adding<br />
charcoal will help to sweeten the soil. Finally, make sure<br />
the soil is only filled up to within two inches of the top of<br />
the pot to allow space for watering.<br />
Fertilizer<br />
Container-grown plants require a lot of water over the<br />
summer and this will flush out fertilizer quite quickly. This<br />
can be counteracted by mixing a slow-release fertilizer into<br />
the soil before planting. A consistent fertilizing program<br />
every two to four weeks as per the fertilizer instructions<br />
will keep the plants fed if a slow-release fertilizer is not an<br />
option. Make sure you do not over-fertilize. The salts and<br />
nitrogen in fertilizer can easily burn tender roots.<br />
Water<br />
Careful watering is perhaps the single-most important<br />
aspect of container gardening. In a normal summer containers<br />
dry out faster than the ground (hanging baskets dry<br />
out even faster) because they are exposed to the drying<br />
effects of the wind and the sun. Containers will require<br />
watering at least two to three times per week during a<br />
normal season. In wet periods water less or the roots will<br />
sit in water. In dry times water more often, up to twice a<br />
day for some plants. To tell if watering is required watch for<br />
HeLPfUL DeSiGn tiPS<br />
Foliage plants provide colour, leaf shape and texture.<br />
Use plenty of them.<br />
Don’t be afraid to cutback or trim faster growing plants<br />
that may ruin your original design.<br />
Mix Zeolite into the soil when planting. Zeolite will help<br />
the soil retain water.<br />
Use more plants than seem to be needed. Containers<br />
will look better and bloom longer.<br />
Start with flowers that are just about ready to flower.<br />
Use a variety of plant sizes.<br />
Water often! Containers tend to dry out quicker than<br />
you might expect.<br />
Use colourful foliage plants (like coleus) to ‘echo’ the<br />
colours of the flowers in your container.<br />
Add flowers of different shapes in your container to<br />
add interest.<br />
wilting or test the top inch or so of the soil. If it is dry then<br />
water until water flows out of the drainage holes. Some<br />
containers need to be watched more closely like terracotta,<br />
smaller pots, dark pots, and hanging baskets.<br />
Planting<br />
There are a few general tips for planting container gardens.<br />
For more specific information please refer to that<br />
particular section in the guide. Do not crowd too many<br />
plants together since they will require room to establish<br />
themselves. Remove dead flowers and prune back leggy<br />
plants to encourage bushy growth. Watch for insects<br />
and diseases on your container plants as the plants are<br />
stressed. Finally, be sure to stake climbing plants or rig<br />
up a trellis. If this is done use a very heavy pot or anchor<br />
the container to prevent it from blowing over.<br />
Annuals<br />
Annuals, lasting only a single season, are the most common<br />
plants found in containers. Flowers and foliage plants<br />
can be mixed or all of the same type. It is important when<br />
planting a mixed container that all plants have the same<br />
light requirements. Growth habits must also be considered;<br />
place tall plants like dracaena or canna lilies near<br />
the back or center and trailers and low-growing plants like<br />
petunias or bacopa on the outside of the planter. The following<br />
is a list of light requirements for commonly grown<br />
annuals. For further information on these plants refer to<br />
the annuals tables. NOTE: for Supertunias it is vital that<br />
they be watered daily.<br />
Sun<br />
Amaranthus Geranium - Ivy Minalobata<br />
Asarina Gomphrena Petunia<br />
Cobaea Hyacinth Bean Snapdragons<br />
Datura Sunflower - Dwarf Lavatera<br />
Marigolds Eccremocarpus Verbena<br />
Sun / Part Shade<br />
Alyssum Rhodochiton Bush Lantana<br />
Bacopa Lobelia Scaevola<br />
Calibrachoa Nasturtium Schizanthus<br />
Dracaena Nemesia Stock<br />
Fuchsia Sweet Potato Vine Nicotiana<br />
Godetia Petunias Thunbergia<br />
Phlox Kennilworth Ivy Vinca<br />
Shade<br />
Coleus Asparagus Fern Pansy<br />
Begonia Impateins Viola<br />
Browallia Mimulus<br />
AnnUALS 2
AnnUALS<br />
2<br />
AnnUALS ContAiner GArDeninG<br />
Vegetables<br />
Planting vegetables in container gardens can be fairly<br />
simple, convenient, and rewarding if a few steps are<br />
followed, though productivity will vary depending on variety<br />
and season. Vegetables require a sunny location and a<br />
large container. Root vegetables need a lot of soil while<br />
large plants like tomatoes require a lot of space for root<br />
development and to ensure that the soil does not dry out<br />
too quickly. The following is a list of vegetables that can<br />
do well in containers arranged by growth habit. Further<br />
information can be found in the vegetable section of this<br />
guide.<br />
Climbing / Trailing<br />
Cucumber Summer Squash Peas<br />
Muskmelon Pole Beans<br />
Root Vegetables<br />
Beets Green Onions Radishes<br />
Carrots Parsnips Turnips<br />
Leaf Vegetables<br />
Cabbage Lettuce<br />
Kale Swiss Chard<br />
Others<br />
Bush Beans Tomatoes (dwarf and determinate)<br />
Bush Peas Eggplant Peppers (hot and sweet)<br />
Summer-Flowering Bulbs<br />
Spring-flowering bulbs like tulips and daffodils rarely<br />
survive a winter in a container. However, summer-flowering<br />
bulbs, corms, tubers, etc. do very well in large containers<br />
for the growing season. Try dahlias (especially dwarf<br />
varieties), begonias, glads and specialty bulbs such as<br />
the climbing gloriosa lily.<br />
Herbs<br />
A very popular container-grown crop, fresh herbs can be<br />
grown close to the back door for convenient harvest as<br />
long as there is sufficent light. Please see the herb section<br />
for details.<br />
Sun<br />
Anise Oregano Basil<br />
Feverfew Rosemary Borage<br />
Horseradish Sage Chives<br />
Hyssop Savory Dill<br />
Lavender Thyme - lemon Fennel<br />
Verbena - Lemon Marjoram<br />
Sun / Part Shade<br />
Bay/Laurel Cilantro Rue<br />
Caraway Comfrey Sorrel<br />
Garlic Catmint/Catnip Tarragon<br />
Chamomile<br />
Shade<br />
Thyme - Common Lemon Balm<br />
Chervil Mint Parsely Sweet Woodruff<br />
Perennials, Shrubs, Bulbs, etc.<br />
Generally plants do not do well when left in containers over<br />
the winter in Calgary. Our fluctuating winter temperatures<br />
are the main problem; the soil freezes and thaws, either<br />
encouraging growth and then killing it or destroying roots<br />
and bulbs. Soil temperatures in the ground are much more<br />
consistent, protecting roots from winter damage.<br />
However, there are exceptions to this rule. Larger<br />
containers with more soil will shelter plant roots. Adding an<br />
insulating material like Styrofoam lining before planting will<br />
also help. Only very hardy native species like potentillas<br />
do well. It is important to water the plants in the containers<br />
well before the ground freezes in the fall. This ensures<br />
moisture during warm, dry winter periods. Even following<br />
this method will not guarantee that plants will overwinter.<br />
The end result is completely dependent on severity of the<br />
weather, the plants' location, the type of container used,<br />
the size of the plant, etc.
Geraniums are one of the most popular and commonly<br />
used bedding out plants. Geraniums are available in a<br />
wide range of colors from red, scarlet, pink, coral, salmon,<br />
peach, orange, lavender, to white. Geraniums are used in<br />
many areas in the yard, including flower beds, pots, planters,<br />
and hanging baskets.<br />
Types<br />
1. Zonal - Pelargonium hortorum<br />
Aptly named because of red zones on leaves.<br />
2. Martha Washington - Pelargonium domesticum<br />
Plant has fancy flowers.<br />
3. Ivy - Pelargonium peltatum<br />
Trailing plant is suitable for hanging baskets.<br />
Care & Culture<br />
Most geraniums prefer full sunlight in a west or south<br />
location, needing approximately 6 hrs. of sun each day.<br />
Martha Washington geraniums prefer partial shade in a<br />
north or east orientation. For watering, keep the soil moist<br />
until the roots are established, after which geraniums are<br />
considered to be semi-drought tolerant. Fertilize every<br />
week or two during the growing season with a complete<br />
fertilizer such as 20-30-20.<br />
Overwintering<br />
Geraniums may be kept from year to year, as they are<br />
technically perennials grown as annuals. There are 3<br />
methods of overwintering geraniums:<br />
AnnUALS GerAniUmS<br />
1. It may be treated like an indoor house plant, giving it<br />
as much light as possible in a south or west window. If the<br />
plant gets stretched out or spindly in winter, prune it back<br />
by pinching off the large, lanky leaves and long stems.<br />
2. The second method involves lifting the plant out of the<br />
pot, shaking off as much soil as possible, and storing it in<br />
a cool, dark box. Keep the roots covered with a moist cloth<br />
which maintains the plant’s life at a bare minimum.<br />
3. Another method is also shaking the soil off the root<br />
system and then storing the plant upside down in a garage<br />
or other area where the temperature hovers just above<br />
freezing. With the last two methods plant in pots in early<br />
March and water with a high phosphorus fertilizer like<br />
Plant-prod 10-52-10 to initiate root growth. With all of the<br />
above three methods, plant the geraniums outside at the<br />
end of May when the danger of frost is over.<br />
AnnUALS GerAniUm CUttinGS<br />
Preparation<br />
Take cuttings, applying rooting hormone on unrooted<br />
cuttings will aid in rooting uniformly. Even the smallest<br />
excess of hormones may cause severe damage use<br />
sparingly.<br />
Air Temperature<br />
Temperatures of 15-20 degrees Celsius should be<br />
maintained during rooting. Ideally the cutting should receive<br />
bottom heat to keep the planting media temperature at<br />
20-22 degrees Celsius.<br />
Watering Cuttings<br />
Moisten just enough to prevent wilting. Excessive misting<br />
can leach nutrients from the cuttings or create conditions for<br />
Botrytis infections to develop. There is a fine line between<br />
wet and dry. Change duration of misting. Short bursts are<br />
better. Stop misting after six days. Shading for first couple<br />
of weeks helps The cuttings can receive full sunlight as<br />
soon as they develop roots.<br />
Fertilizer<br />
Can be applied two weeks after planting. Fertilize with 10-<br />
52-10, and as always read the label.<br />
Ventilation<br />
To prevent Botrytis keep humid air moving using a<br />
horizontal fan. Keep leaves dry at night.<br />
Fungicides<br />
Use No Damp two weeks after planting or when rooting<br />
occurs. Cleaning off old leaves and dis-budding will also<br />
control disease. When rooted out put into 4” or 6” pots in<br />
professional planting mix.<br />
AnnUALS 2
AnnUALS<br />
26<br />
BeDDinG oUt PLAntS<br />
Names<br />
Height/<br />
Spread<br />
Uses<br />
Flower<br />
Color(s)<br />
Features<br />
all annuals listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
Indoor/<br />
Outdoor<br />
Seed Date<br />
AFRICAN DAISY 12/8 in. beds, borders, orange, Dark eyed, daisy flowers; » Mar. 20-28 seed<br />
Dimorphotheca species 30/20 cm mass planting yellow also called cape marigold May 1-10 trans.<br />
AGERATUM 6/10 in. borders, beds blue,red, Compact mound of Feb. 20-28 seed,<br />
(Floss Flower) 15/25 cm mass planting white fluffy flower clusters May 1-15 trans.<br />
ALYSSUM, SWEET 8/10 in. border, purple, Compact mound of dainty » Mar. 15-30 seed,<br />
Lobularia maritima 20/25 cm edging plant white flowers, excellent edging plant May 1-10 trans.<br />
ASTER, CHINA 12/8 in. beds, borders, purple, Late summer blooming; flower Mar. 15-30 seed,<br />
Callistephus chinensis 30/20 cm mass planting pink forms are daisy and pompom May 1-10 trans.<br />
BABY’S BREATH 12/12 in. beds, borders, white, Profuse sprays of May 15-30 seed,<br />
Gysophila elegans 30/30 cm bouquets pink dainty delicate flowers May 1-10 trans.<br />
BEGONIA, WAX 8/6 in. beds, borders, red, pink, Colorful clusters of flowers; Feb. 1-28 seed,<br />
Begonia semperflorens 20/15 cm planters white fleshy leaves and fibrous roots n/a trans.<br />
BEGONIA, TUBEROUS 14/12 in. planters, pots, red, pink, Large showy double flowers; n/a trans-<br />
Begonia tuberhybrida 35/30 cm specimen yellow plant tuberous root after last frost n/a plant<br />
BELLS OF IRELAND 24/12 in. borders, green, & Tiny white flowers in green bells; Mar. 1-15 seed<br />
Moluccella laevis 60/30 cm cut flowers white square stems, toothed leaves Apr. 20-30<br />
BRACHYCOME 10/10 in. planters, pots, purple, Daisy-like flowers are Mar. 1-15 seed<br />
(Swan River Daisy) 25/25 cm hanging baskets gold eye suitable in all containers May 1-15 trans.<br />
BROWALLIA 14/12 in. planters, pots, violet Trumpet-shaped blossoms; Feb. 20-28 seed,<br />
Browallia speciosa 35/30 cm hanging baskets likes sheltered, shaded situation May 1-15 trans.<br />
CARNATION 12/8 in. beds, borders, various Strong stemmed, Jan. 1-15 trans-<br />
Dianthus caryophyllus 30/20 cm cut flowers mixed fragrant flowers n/a plant<br />
CELOSIA 12/6 in. beds, borders, various Feathery, plumed, or crested, Apr. 20-30 trans-<br />
(Cockscomb) 30/15 cm planters mixed comb-like large flowers n/a plant<br />
CENTAUREA 18/10 in. beds, borders, true blue, True blue flowers readily reseed Feb. 15 seed<br />
(Bachelor’s Button) 45/25 cm mass planting pink also called cornflower Apr. 15<br />
COLEUS 18/10 in. beds, borders, colored Combo. of multi-colored leaves, Mar. 1-15 seed,<br />
Coleus x hybridus 45/25 cm planters foliage also called flame nettle n/a trans.<br />
COSMOS 36/24 in. background pink Tall plant with feathery foliage, Apr. 1-10 seed,<br />
Cosmos bipinnatus 90/60 cm of border easily grown from seed May 10-20 trans.<br />
DAHLIA 14/10 in. beds, pots, various Late summer blooming; Mar. 10-20 seed,<br />
Dahlia pinnata 35/25 cm borders mixed tuberous root May 10-20 trans.<br />
DATURA 4/2 ft. back of border white, Exotic plant, large trumpet Mar. 10-20 seed,<br />
Datura pinnata 1/.5 m specimen in pot yellow flowers also called thorn apple n/a trans.<br />
DIANTHUS-China Pink 12/8 in. beds, borders, red, pink, Fragrant fringed flowers similar Mar. 1-10 seed,<br />
Dianthus chinensis 30/20 cm mass planting white to carnations or sweet william n/a trans.<br />
DRACAENA SPIKES 24/24 in. planters, pots, foliage Rosette of sword shaped leaves; » n/a trans-<br />
Cordyline indivisa 60/60 cm specimen plant plant in center of container n/a plant<br />
African Daisy Dahlia<br />
Begonia Celosia<br />
Datura<br />
Cosmos<br />
Dianthus Ageratum<br />
Seed/<br />
Transplant
all annuals listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Names<br />
Height/<br />
Spread<br />
Uses<br />
DUSTY MILLER 12/8 in. border, silvery Colored foliage plant Feb. 1-10 seed,<br />
Centaurea cineraria 30/20 cm edging plant foliage with hairy, divided leaves n/a trans.<br />
GAZANIA 12/12 in. beds, borders, yellow, Similar to African daisy; Feb. 10-20 seed,<br />
Gazania splendens 30/30 cm planters orange also called treasure flower n/a trans.<br />
GERANIUM-Pelargonium 20/20 in. planters, beds, pots red, pink, 4 types: zonal, ivy, seed » Jan. 10-15 seed,<br />
hortor-domestic-paltatum 50/50 cm hanging baskets white or Martha Washington n/a trans.<br />
GODETIA/CLARKIA 18/12 in. beds, borders, red, pink, Showy, satiny, » Apr. 10-20 seed,<br />
Satin Flower 45/30 cm mass planting white cup-like blossoms May 10-20 trans.<br />
IMPATIENS 10/10 in. planters, borders, red, pink, Succulent stems, spur flowers; Feb 15-20 seed,<br />
(<strong>Garden</strong> Balsam) 25/25 cm hanging baskets white for sheltered, shaded sites n/a trans.<br />
KALE-Ornamental 16/16 in. beds, borders, pink &/or Colorful rosette of foliage; edible, Apr. 10-20 seed,<br />
Brassica oleracea 40/40 cm specimen white color shows in cool temp. in Sept. May 1-10 trans.<br />
LANTANA 18/18 in. specimen orange, Place outside after last frost; » n/a trans-<br />
Lantana camara 45/45 cm in container yellow does well in hot, dry area n/a plant<br />
LAVATERA 36/24 in. back of border, pink, Large, showy, cup-like flowers; Apr. 1-10 seed,<br />
Lavatera trimestris 90/60 cm pots white resembles hibiscus & hollyhock May 10-20 trans.<br />
LIVINGSTONE DAISY 6/6 in. borders, planters, pink, red, Daisy-like flowers; succulent; Mar. 15-30 seed,<br />
Mesembryanthemum 15/15 cm hanging baskets lavender good for windy, hot, dry area May 1-10 trans.<br />
LOBELIA 4/6 in. borders, planters, true blue, Both trailing and compact forms » Feb. 20-28 seed,<br />
Lobelia erinus 10/15 cm hanging baskets red,white with delicate flowers for edging n/a trans.<br />
MARIGOLD, AFRICAN 30/12 in. background of bed, orange, Tall plants with lacy leaves and Apr. 1-15 trans-<br />
Tagetes erecta 75/30 cm cut flowers yellow large flowers that repel insects May 15-30 plant<br />
MARIGOLD, FRENCH 16/6 in. borders, beds, yellow, Combos. of bicolor flowers; Apr. 10-20 seed,<br />
Tagetes patula 40/15 cm mass planting orange includes Dwarf Boy Series May 15-25 trans.<br />
MARIGOLD, POT 12/8 in. beds, borders, yellow, Similar looking to true marigolds; Apr. 10-20 seed,<br />
Calendula officinalis 30/20 cm cut flowers orange flowers reseed readily May 15-25 trans.<br />
MIMULUS 10/6 in. beds, borders, red & Suitable for moist shaded area; Mar. 15 seed.<br />
(Monkey Flower) 25/15 cm mass planting yellow flowers mimic monkey faces May 15-20 trans.<br />
NASTURTIUM 10/10 in. beds, borders, yellow, Dwarf plants with edible foliage » Apr 1-10 seed,<br />
Tropaeolum majus 25/25 cm planters orange and round peltate leaves May 1-10 trans.<br />
NEMESIA 10/6 in. beds, borders, various Clusters of flowers with » Mar. 10-20 seed,<br />
Nemesia strumosa 25/15 cm mass planting mixed lower bearded petals May 10-20 trans.<br />
NICOTIANA 16/10 in. beds, borders, red, wine, Fragrant, star-shaped flowers; » Mar. 1-10 seed,<br />
Nicotiana alata 40/25 cm cut flowers rose also called flowering tobacco May 1-10 trans.<br />
PANSY 6/6 in. border, beds, various Hardy, frost tolerant, short plants Feb. 1-10 seed,<br />
Viola tricolor 15/15 cm edging plant mixed for shaded, moist areas n/a trans.<br />
PETUNIA 16/8 in. borders, beds, wide Most popular annual flowers; » Feb. 15-20 trans-<br />
Petunia hybrida 40/20 cm planters, baskets range spreading or cascading growth May 10-20 plant<br />
Livingstone Daisy<br />
Gazania<br />
BeDDinG oUt PLAntS<br />
Flower<br />
Color(s)<br />
Features<br />
Indoor/<br />
Outdoor<br />
Seed Date<br />
Seed/<br />
Transplant<br />
Nicotiana Nemesia<br />
Lavatera<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
AnnUALS 2
AnnUALS<br />
2<br />
HAnGinG BASKetS all<br />
Sun<br />
Name Features Flower<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Color<br />
Shade<br />
BACOPA » Shade tolerant annual white<br />
annuals listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Satura cordata<br />
BEGONIA,Tuberous Showy, large, double flowers; pink, red,<br />
Begonia tuberhybrida shade Illumination & Non-Stop series orange<br />
CALIBRACHOA » Small pastel colored petunia-like blue,pink<br />
(Million bells) blooms likes lots of water and food or white<br />
COLEUS » Combo. of multi-colored leaves; colored<br />
Coleus hybridus Minter Rainbow cultivar foliage<br />
FUCHSIA » Drooping bicolored flowers; red, white<br />
Fuchsia hybrida bring woody shrub indoors in fall & purple<br />
GERANIUM, IVY Hanging or climbing stems, red, pink<br />
Pelargonium peltatum durable plant with divided leaves or white<br />
IMPATIENS Popular annual hangers; wide<br />
<strong>Garden</strong> Balsam Accent and Rosebud series range<br />
SCAEVOLA » Creeping herbaceous perennial; blue<br />
Scaevola aemula Blue Wonder variety<br />
SUPERTUNIAS » Abundant pastel flowers; wide<br />
Petunia hybrida lots of water and fertilizer each day!!! range<br />
VERBENA Flower clusters; keep wet!; various<br />
Verbena hybrida hairy, toothed, lanceolate leaves<br />
Hanging Baskets<br />
Frost Tolerant Annuals<br />
Centaurea Pansy<br />
Dianthus Petunia<br />
Dracaena Snapdragon<br />
Dusty Miller Viola<br />
Kale<br />
Frost Sensitive Annuals<br />
Ageratum Lavatera<br />
Amaranthus Marigold<br />
Begonia Mesembryanthemum<br />
Dahlia Portulaca<br />
Gazania Statice<br />
Geranium Strawflower<br />
Impateins Verbena<br />
Lantana Zinnia
AnnUALVineS all annuals listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Sun<br />
Indoor Seed or<br />
Names Ht. Use Flower<br />
Color<br />
Features Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
Seed<br />
Date<br />
Transplant<br />
ASARINA- 7 ft. hangers, planters, pink Trailing vine with large, Feb. trans.<br />
MYSTIC PINK 2 m. trellis trumpet-shaped flowers 15-28<br />
CANARY BIRD VINE 7 ft. vine coverage on yellow Annual climber with » May seed,<br />
Tropaeolum peregrinum 2 m. fence or trellis (with cut petals) 5-lobed leaves 10-20<br />
COBAEA SCANDENS 12 ft. trellis, violet Bell-shaped flowers n/a trans.<br />
(Purple Climber) 4 m. hanging basket with green sepals<br />
CREEPING JENNY 4 in. planters, yellow Creeping perennial » n/a trans.<br />
Lysimachia nummularia 10 cm. hanging basket or ground cover<br />
ECCREMOCARPUS 10 ft. hangers, planters, yellow, orange, 2 cm. tubular blooms Mar. trans.<br />
(Chilean Glory Vine) 3 m. trellis screening red 1-15<br />
HYACINTH BEAN 10 ft. hangers, planters, Lilac flowers form Twining climber with Mar. trans.<br />
Dolichos lablab 3 m. trellis purple edible pods triangular leaves 1-15<br />
KENILWORTH IVY- 24 in. bed, border, planter, single, tiny pink Profusion of small » Feb.<br />
Cymbalaria muralis 60 cm. hanging basket, pot blooms leafed foliage 15-20 trans.<br />
MINA LOBATA 12 ft. planters, red, orange, Twining climber; Mar. trans.<br />
(Spanish Flag) 4 m. hanging basket yellow 3 flower colors same time<br />
MOON VINE 10 ft. trellis screening white Large 15 cm. fragrant Mar. trans.<br />
Calonyction aculeatum 3 m. flowers open at night 20-31<br />
MORNING GLORY- 10 ft. trellis screening blue Large 10-15 cm. trumpet- Mar. trans.<br />
(Heavenly Blue) 3 m. shaped flowers 20-31<br />
PETUNIA -Super 4 ft. planters, blues,pinks 6 cm. flower n/a trans.<br />
cascadias, surfinia 1.2 m. hanging basket<br />
RHODOCHITON- 7 ft. hanger, planter, purple bell-shaped flowers » Mar. trans.<br />
Purple Bells 2 m. houseplant 20-31<br />
SCARLET RUN. BEAN 7 ft. screens, trellis, red Vine with flower clusters; n/a seed<br />
Phaseolus coccineus 2 m. posts edible beans<br />
SWEET PEA 10 ft. screens, pink, white, blue, Old-fashioned favorite » n/a seed,<br />
Lathyrus odoratus 3 m. beds red, cream, purple with fragrant flowers trans.<br />
THUNBERGIA ALATA 3 ft. planters, orange or yellow Arrow shaped leaves; » April seed,<br />
Black Eyed Susan Vine 1 m. hanging basket with dark center individually borne flowers 10-20 trans.<br />
VINCA MAJOR 3 ft. hanger accent, blue Variegated trailing foliage; » n/a trans.<br />
(Greater Periwinkle) 1 m. planter cousin to Vinca minor<br />
AnnUALS 2
AnnUALS<br />
0<br />
AnnUALS HerBS<br />
Names<br />
Annual,<br />
Biennial,<br />
Perennial<br />
Culinary Cuisine Uses<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
all herbs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Indoor/<br />
Outdoor<br />
seed date<br />
Days From<br />
Seed to<br />
Harvest<br />
Seed/<br />
Transplant<br />
ANISE annual Licorice flavored seeds for Anisette liqueur, May 15-30 70-75 seed<br />
Pimpinella anisum baking and white meat n/a trans<br />
BASIL annual Pungent flavor for tomato sauces; 6 varieties May 15-30 80-85 seed<br />
Ocimum basilicum including Sweet, Purple and Lemon types n/a trans<br />
BAY/LAUREL woody Bay leaves flavor soup and stew; » n/a<br />
Laurus nobilis also available as indoor tropical plant n/a trans<br />
BORAGE biennial Leaves are used in salads; May 15-30 80-85 seed<br />
Borago officinalis edible blue flowers self seed n/a<br />
CARAWAY biennial Seeds flavor bread and cheese; » n/a seed<br />
Carum carvi resembles carrot or dill May 15-30 2nd year<br />
CATGRASS Oats perennial Cat treat; » n/a 15-20 seed<br />
plant indoors in pot or outdoors May 10-20<br />
CATMINT/CATNIP perennial Cat treat or soothing tea; » May 10-20 75-80 seed<br />
Nepeta cataria in mint family with square stems n/a trans<br />
CHAMOMILE, German annual Relaxing, soothing tea; » May 10-20 20-30 seed<br />
Matricaria recutita white daisies readily re-seed n/a<br />
CHERVIL annual Gourmet parsley for salad garnish; » May 15-30 70-80 seed<br />
Anthriscus cerefolium one of the four fine French herbs n/a<br />
CHIVES perennial Mild, onion-like flavor to salad, sauce & soup; May 15-30 80-85 seed<br />
Allium schoenoprasum attractive purple flowers n/a trans<br />
CHIVES, Garlic perennial Mild garlic flavor to salad, sauce & soup; May 15-30 85-90 seed<br />
Allium tuberosum attractive white flowers n/a trans<br />
CILANTRO/Coriander annual Leaves are also called Chinese parsley; » May 10-20 20-30 seed<br />
Coriandrum sativum seed is called coriander n/a trans<br />
COMFREY perennial Once used as a poultice on » n/a 60-90<br />
Symphytum officinale cuts, bruises and broken bones May 10-30 trans<br />
DILL, Fernleaf annual Tangy tasting pickles, salad, sauce & stew; May 15-30 60-70 seed<br />
Anethum graveolens a dilly of an herb that self seeds! n/a trans<br />
ECHINACEA perennial Also called coneflower, Apr. 1-15 120 seed<br />
Echinacea angustifolia strengthens immune system n/a trans.<br />
FENNEL annual Mild anise/licorice flavor to May 10-20 80-90 seed,<br />
Foeniculum vulgare salad, sauce & fish n/a<br />
FEVERFEW perennial Put in salad or soup to May 10-30 80-90 seed,<br />
Matricaria parthenium prevent migraine headaches n/a trans.<br />
GARLIC annual Popular sulphur flavoring to meat & veg. dishes » May 1-15 100-120 bulb<br />
Allium sativum allegedly wards off evil vampires! n/a cloves<br />
GARLIC, Elephant annual Nutty, milder garlic flavor; » May 1-15 100-120 bulb<br />
Allium ampeloprasum good grilled or roasted veggie n/a<br />
HORSE RADISH perennial Hot condiment on beef and pork; May 1-15 100-120 bulb,<br />
Armoracia rusticana tuberous roots n/a<br />
HYSSOP perennial Bitter taste to salad, soup or stew; May 10-30 30-60 seed,<br />
Hyssopus officinalis blue flower spikes n/a<br />
LAVENDER, English hardy Fragrant flowers for bouquets, Mar. 1-10 100-120 seed,<br />
Lavendula angustifolia perennial baths, potpourris and sachets n/a trans.<br />
LAVENDER, French tender Fragrant flowers for bouquets, Mar. 1-10 100-120<br />
Lavendula dentata perennial baths, potpourris and sachets n/a trans.<br />
LEMON BALM perennial Balmy lemon flavored tea, » Apr. 10-20 90-100 seed,<br />
Melissa officinalis salad garnish n/a trans.<br />
LEMON VERBENA tender Zesty lemon flavor to hot or cold n/a<br />
Aloysia triphylla perennial desserts, dishes or drinks n/a trans<br />
MARJORAM, Sweet annual Strong flavor to meat and veggie dishes; Apr. 10-20 80-85 seed,<br />
Origanum majorana closely related to oregano n/a<br />
MINT/Peppermint perennial Strong, hot flavored tummy tea, lamb, jelly & Apr. 1-10 80-85 seed,<br />
Mentha piperita dessert; plant has square stems May 1-10
AnnUALS HerBS Sun<br />
Names<br />
Annual,<br />
Biennial,<br />
Perennial<br />
Culinary Cuisine Uses<br />
MINT/Spearmint perennial Cool, mild flavored Mint Julep and lamb; » Apr. 1-10 80-85 seed<br />
Mentha spicata square stems with pebbled, pointed leaves May 1-10<br />
OREGANO tender Sharp flavor to Italian pizza & pasta sauce » Apr. 10-20 60-80 seed,<br />
Origanum vulgare perennial or Mexican dishes; Greek & common types n/a trans<br />
PARSLEY, Curled biennial Curled leaf garnish type; Apr. 1-15 70-90 seed,<br />
Petroselinum crispum replant every year May 15-30 trans<br />
PARSLEY, Italian biennial Plain leaf cooking type; » Apr. 1-15 70-90 seed,<br />
Petroselinum neopolitanum replant every year May 15-30 trans<br />
ROSEMARY tender Mediterranean herb in meat & veggie dishes; » n/a seed,<br />
Rosemarinus officinalis perennial blue flowers and evergreen, linear leaves May 10-20 75-85 trans<br />
RUE tender Bitter tasting herb to reputedly repel cats; » Apr. 15-30 70-90<br />
Ruta graveolens perennial toxic to pregnant women n/a trans<br />
SAGE perennial Strong flavor in stuffing, sausage & poultry; Apr. 10-20 80-85 seed,<br />
Salvia officinalis 4 varieties with purple flower spikes n/a trans<br />
SAVORY, Summer annual Strong, peppery flavor to beans and meat; n/a seed<br />
Saturega hortensis use fresh or dry leaves May 10-20 60-65 trans<br />
SAVORY, Winter perennial Strong, peppery flavor to beans and meat; n/a<br />
Saturega montana evergreen creeping plant May 10-20 60-65 trans<br />
SORREL, French perennial Sour lemon flavor to soup or salad; » May 1-15 60-90 seed<br />
Rumex acetosa also known as sour grass in Europe May 15-30<br />
SWEET WOODRUFF Perennial Sweet scented tea or wine; » n/a<br />
Galium odoratum great ground cover with white flowers n/a trans<br />
TARRAGON, French Perennial Anise/licorice flavor to salad or fish; » n/a<br />
Artemesia dracunculus another one of the four fine French herbs n/a trans<br />
TARRAGON, Russian perennial Mildly bitter anise flavor to salad or fish; » May 10-30 60-90 seed<br />
Artemesia dracunculus less versatile variety lacks aromatic oils n/a<br />
THYME, Common perennial Flavors soup, meat and veggie dishes; » Apr. 1-10 85-90 seed,<br />
Thymus vulgaris good ground cover n/a trans<br />
THYME, Lemon perennial Lemon fragrance to white meat dishes; Apr. 1-10 85-90<br />
Thymus citriodorus attractive green and gold variegated leaves n/a trans<br />
tiPS for SAVinG HerBS<br />
Harvest herbs just before the flower buds appear since this<br />
is when they are at their most flavorful. Using a sharp knife<br />
or scissors, cut the stem leaving at least four inches below a<br />
pair of leaves in order to ensure good regrowth. Wash herbs<br />
in cold running water and drain on paper towels.<br />
The easiest way to preserve your herbs is through air-drying<br />
at room temperature. For plants with long stems such as<br />
sage, parsley, and rosemary tie 6-8 stems together and<br />
hang upside down in a warm, dark place for approximately<br />
1-2 weeks. Use trays or screens for short-stemmed herbs<br />
like thyme and large-leafed herbs like basil. Store in a warm<br />
dark place until dry.<br />
Once the herbs are succussfully preserved keep in an<br />
airtight container in a cool, dark place as light and heat will<br />
destroy their flavour and color.<br />
Another method of preservation is freezing. This is<br />
especially useful for herbs that do not dry well such as dill,<br />
chives, and basil. Simply wash, chop, freeze, and thaw<br />
when needed.<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
all herbs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Indoor/<br />
Outdoor<br />
seed date<br />
Days From<br />
Seed to<br />
Harvest<br />
Seed/<br />
Transplant<br />
Basil<br />
AnnUALS 1
AnnUALS<br />
2<br />
WAter PLAntS yoUr qUeStionS<br />
Q: How deep should I plant my water lily?<br />
A: Your lily can survive with only one and a half inches of water<br />
above the crown of the plant. It will be more susceptible to adverse<br />
temperature swings in Calgary from day to night. The best location<br />
is in a quiet portion of the pool, away from any waterfalls, to a<br />
depth of eighteen inches from the bottom of the pot to the top of<br />
the water. If you follow these directions your lily will be safe even<br />
when there is a threat of frost.<br />
Q: What is the difference between marginal and bog<br />
plants?<br />
A: There is not a major difference - marginal plants need high<br />
humidity while bog plants need wet roots. The best place for<br />
marginal plants is on the edge of the pond; bog plants should be<br />
immersed in the water depending upon variety - follow instructions<br />
for individual plants.<br />
Q: Why can’t I get my water hyacinth to bloom?<br />
A: The hyacinth is a “tropical” plant which loves the heat.<br />
Unfortunately, the cool nights of Calgary are not conducive for<br />
blooming. These plants do well in crowded conditions which may<br />
help to encourage blooming.<br />
Q: Do I need to fertilize my water plants?<br />
A: Use pond tablets to feed your lilies at a rate of one tablet per<br />
plant per growing month. This provides the minor elements which<br />
are used up from your pond quite quickly. Nitrogen, phosphorous,<br />
and potassium, are in ample supply from your water source so<br />
there is no need to add any.<br />
Q: What type of soil do I use for my water plants?<br />
A: A rich clay loam, is preferred. “Top soil” by Homestead would<br />
be the best choice for planting all your water plants into.<br />
Q: Why are marginal / bog plants in such a small pot?<br />
A: This benefits the customer. Small pots are a much more<br />
economical altenative to the expensive larger potted plants.<br />
Q: Can I put water plants in a half oak barrel?<br />
A: Yes, but only a maximum of one lily, one floater, such as a<br />
hyacinth, or lettuce, and one bog plant. Don’t forget to top up<br />
water lost through evaporation.<br />
Q: How many water plants should I put in my pond?<br />
A: You can use one lily per 5 square feet of pond surface area,<br />
one bog plant per one square foot, and one bundle of oxygenating<br />
plants such as hornwort per 18 cubic feet (3’x3’x2’). Floaters,<br />
including surface area covered by bog and lily, can equal up to<br />
60% of the total surface area.<br />
Q: What do I do with the plants when winter comes?<br />
A: If the pond is to be drained at the end of the season and all the<br />
bog plants and lilies are in their own containers make sure you<br />
leave the plants in their own containers. Floaters and oxygenators<br />
are not in containers so they’ll need to be treated differently.<br />
A) Lilies- Lift the entire plant, pot and all, and place in a dark,<br />
plastic bag. Store the lily in the bag in a cool location, with the bag<br />
slightly draped closed not twist-tied shut. Place moist sphagnum<br />
moss around the crown of the plant, on the soil surface. Keep this<br />
moss wet, checking at least every two to three weeks. Once the<br />
foliage has died back, remove. Keep in this location until March of<br />
the following year. At this time place in bucket of water and cover<br />
one and a half inches above the crown. Give the plant a pond<br />
tablet. Bring into a higher light, warmer location. Place into pond<br />
when frost is unlikely at a minimum depth 18”.<br />
B) Bog plants once lifted out of the pond can be “heeled-in”,<br />
which is digging a trench deep enough to cover the pot up to<br />
four inches above the crown of the plant. Backfill the trench<br />
after soaking the roots, leave the foliage on the plants until they<br />
are totally brown and dead, then remove. In the spring dig up<br />
once the soil has thawed and bring into a warmer and brighter<br />
location. Water well, and keep them standing in a saucer, which<br />
is constantly filled with water.<br />
C) Marginal plants which can be planted along the edge of the<br />
pond will need a four inch mulch layer after being well watered<br />
before the big freeze of winter sets in. Their survival will depend<br />
upon the plants’ hardiness zone.<br />
D) Floaters, water hyacinth and lettuce, will need to be brought<br />
in before they are touched by frost. To over-winter they will need<br />
to have their free-floating root system planted into ‘top soil’,<br />
and placed in a high light window, south preferred for the winter<br />
months.<br />
E) Hornwort- the best place for it to over winter if the pond is<br />
to be drained is in an aquarium type setting with 12-14 hours of<br />
flourescent light a day.<br />
Q: How do I control the algae?<br />
A: A little amount (a thin coating) is fine but when it gets to the<br />
point where a film, or what is known as filamentous algae, has<br />
grown it is time to scoop it out. Follow the 3’x3’x2’ cubic footage<br />
space needs for the hornwort bundles in order to have enough<br />
oxygenating plants for the area. Have the water pass through a<br />
filter system, which is maintained, skim off the garbage from the<br />
top to keep the surface as clean as possible, and if you have fish<br />
don’t overfeed.
Pond Basics<br />
PonDinStALLAtion<br />
Water features, such as ponds and fountains, have recently become very popular . The sound of running water is soothing and<br />
an attractively landscaped pool with some fish, water plants (even water lilies!), and a waterfall or fountain can be a beautiful addition<br />
to your garden. The most important first step is to decide where your pond is to be located, and how it is to be constructed.<br />
Things to consider are:<br />
Pond size should be as large as the site and your budget will allow. Larger volumes of water do not change temperature as<br />
quickly. Depth is most practical at 18-23 inches. A pool 24 or more inches deep requires, by law, a lockable, 6 foot fence. If plants,<br />
particularly water lilies, are to be included, at least 6 hours of sunlight daily is necessary. Locate your pond where it can be seen<br />
and heard from both inside your home and seating areas of your garden. Try to avoid locating under decidous trees, as leaves<br />
dropping into the pond are a nuisance. An electrical supply is necessary for a pump and possible lighting.<br />
Choosing the Pond<br />
Pre-formed ponds are the easiest to install but are limited in<br />
size and shape. Heavy butyl liners are more of a challenge<br />
to install, but give you unlimited flexibility and design. Poured<br />
concrete is not practical in Alberta. With our fluctuations in<br />
temperature, they crack too easily.<br />
Installing a Pond<br />
Choose site and outline area with garden hose to visualize<br />
shape and orientation. Excavate area and line with old carpet,<br />
or layers of newspaper, then add sand to cushion the liner.<br />
Pre-formed ponds are set into the hole so that the lip is just<br />
at soil level. Liners are draped into the hole and neatly folded<br />
at curves to fit.<br />
Add water as you shape the liner to help it settle into the<br />
pond.<br />
Be sure the pool is level. Use a board across it with a carpenter's<br />
level. If the pond is not level, the water will still be level, so<br />
it will look unbalanced. Edge the pond with appropriate material<br />
for your garden. It might look best with rock edging if rock is<br />
used elsewhere in the area. If there are other wood features<br />
such as a deck close by, it could look best with wood edging.<br />
Water <strong>Garden</strong> Plants<br />
Oxygenators help filter the water and utilize nutrients that algae<br />
otherwise use, so their utilization cuts down on algae formation.<br />
They float on the water surface. Floating plants, and potted<br />
plants with floating leaves such as water lilies, cover a portion<br />
of the water surface, so also cut down on algae production by<br />
eliminating sunlight on the water. They also are very attractive<br />
additions to the pond. Marginal plants, in pots on shelves or<br />
upturned pots in the pool at the edges, grow in soil, and add a<br />
natural appearance to the pond. Plants around a pond should<br />
look appropriate, but often mimic what would normally grow in<br />
a bog around a natural pond. The area surrounding an artificial<br />
pond is usually dry, so bog plants do not do well.<br />
Fish<br />
Fish add a fascinating aspect to a pond, with their movement<br />
and color. Goldfish do well in a pool over the summer, and are<br />
inexpensive. Koi are more expensive, have beautiful coloration,<br />
grow to be large fish and become somewhat tame. Fish also<br />
eat mosquito larvae.<br />
HoW to inStALL<br />
Overwintering<br />
Once there has been a frost, water plants and fish should be<br />
brought indoors. Neither can survive outdoors over the winter. Once foliage has died back remove and keep remainder in a loosely<br />
tied plastic bag with a damp rootball, in a cold but frost-free place until spring. Check the rootball periodically to be sure it hasn't<br />
dried out. Some tropical water plants may be kept in water under artificial lights for the winter. If an appropriate place is not available<br />
to store plants over the winter (we don't always have cold basements anymore), it is best to consider them as annuals and<br />
replace them in the spring. Fish can be kept in an aquarium indoors for the winter. It will need a filter, but not a light or heater.<br />
AnnUALS
AnnUALS<br />
AnnUALS WAter PLAntS all water plants listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
Floating Plants Latin Name Description<br />
Hornwort Ceratophyllum Submerged feathery foliage; good oxygenator<br />
Water Hyacinth Eichornia Fleshy floater with occasional lavender flowers<br />
Water Lettuce Pistia Looks like small floating cabbage<br />
Marginal Plants Latin Name Description<br />
Arrowhead Sagittaria Arrow-shaped leaves, white flowers<br />
Buttercup, Creeping Ranunculus Bright yellow flowers, creeping stems<br />
Cardinal Flower Lobelia Red or blue trumpet-shaped flowers<br />
Cattail, Miniature Typha Miniature brown cattails, slender leaves<br />
Creeping Jenny Lysimachia Bright yellow flowers, small round leaves, trailing stems<br />
Iris, Blue or Yellow Flag Iris Blue or yellow flowers on these stunning specimens<br />
Marsh Marigold Caltha <strong>Golden</strong> yellow flowers, serrated leaves<br />
Monkey Flower Mimulus Yellow or pink, snapdragon-like flowers<br />
Palm, Umbrella or Papyrus Cyperus Tall plant with umbrella-like foliage<br />
Pickerel Weed Pontederia Heart-shaped leaves, flower clusters<br />
Rush Juncus Narrow leaves, brown seed heads<br />
Sedge Carex Grass-like, arching leaves; brown seed heads<br />
Water Lilies Nymphaea Colours: pink, red, white, yellow
StArtinG SeeDS<br />
6<br />
StArtinG SeeDS yoUr qUeStionS<br />
Q: How deep should seeds be planted?<br />
A: Most seed packages give depth and spacing directions<br />
but a good rule of thumb is to plant at a depth of three<br />
times the width of the seed. Very small seeds can simply<br />
be pressed into the soil and not covered.<br />
Q: What causes young seedlings to collapse?<br />
A: The most common cause of this is lack of light or watering<br />
problems. If watering or lack of watering is not the<br />
cause then “damping off” (a fungus) is a possible cause.<br />
By using a sterile soil less mix and providing good air circulation,<br />
the risk is reduced. A fungicide called No Damp<br />
used at the time of planting or with early waterings will also<br />
protect the seedlings.<br />
Q: Why do seedlings started indoors tend to get tall<br />
and weak?<br />
A: Light conditions and temperatures indoors are often<br />
unsuitable for healthy growth. Young plants stretch toward<br />
light and are less robust when kept too warm. By using<br />
full spectrum fluorescent lights for 12-16 hours a day, kept<br />
about 4-6 inches(10-15 cm) above the plants, they should<br />
stay more compact. Temperatures should be kept at about<br />
15 degrees C at night and 20 degrees C during the day.<br />
Q: How often should seedlings be watered?<br />
A: The soil should be kept slightly moist. Light, temperature,<br />
growth and size of plant will affect how often watering<br />
should be done. High temperatures and strong sunlight<br />
will dry soil very quickly as will larger plants in small containers.<br />
Q: Should seedlings be fertilized?<br />
A: Once the young plants have their second set of true<br />
leaves they can be fed. Any fertilizer with a slightly higher<br />
phosphorous ( second number) level is fine. Follow package<br />
directions for mixing and frequency of feedings.<br />
Q: What is pricking out?<br />
A: The transplanting of seedlings is referred to as pricking<br />
out. When separating or moving small plants try to move<br />
as much soil as possible with the plants. Use a pencil or<br />
popsicle stick to lift plants and handle the plants by a leaf<br />
rather then the stem. Replant into individual containers at<br />
the same depth and form soil gently around plant.<br />
Q: What does ‘pinching’ mean?<br />
A: Pinching is a type of pruning. By removing the growth tip<br />
of plants they are encouraged to branch out. Many plants<br />
respond well to pinching but check on individual varieties<br />
as some are best left alone.<br />
Q: Can garden soil be used when starting seeds indoors?<br />
A: <strong>Garden</strong> soil can be very heavy and dense and may<br />
contain weed seeds or fungi. Generally it is best to use a<br />
sterile soil-less mix. A soil-less mix is usually a mix of peat<br />
moss, vermiculite, and perlite. This combination is light,<br />
porous, and works well when starting seeds and growing<br />
plants to maturity.<br />
Q: What is hardening off?<br />
A: This is the process of exposing plants to outdoor conditions<br />
gradually. About two weeks before placing plants<br />
in their final location put plants out in a shady spot for an<br />
hour or so. Each day increase time outside and exposure<br />
to sun. Protect plants from frost.<br />
Q: Why bother to grow things from seeds?<br />
A: Although seed prices have increased it is still far less<br />
expensive to grow plants from seed than to buy plants.<br />
The selections and varieties of seeds are much larger then<br />
that of plants, particularly annuals and vegetables. Growing<br />
plants from seed can be very rewarding.<br />
Q: I planted runner beans and would like to save the<br />
seeds for next year. How can I do this?<br />
A: Cut the beans from the vine and store in a cool dry place.<br />
When the pods have dried, remove the beans and store<br />
them in a cool dry place as well. This method wil also work<br />
for sweet peas and other legumes. For sweet peas lightly<br />
cover the container the pods are in with a piece of paper<br />
as the pods pop and you may have sweet pea seeds all<br />
over your basement!<br />
Q: What is ‘damping off’? How do I treat it?<br />
A: Damping off is a fungal disease that causes the seedlings<br />
to wither at the soil line and fall over. Using a sterile<br />
growing medium like soil-less mixes helps greatly to reduce<br />
this problem. Make sure you wash containers well if you<br />
plan to re-use them. Don’t overcrowd the seedlings and<br />
leave the tops of any indoor greenhouses slightly ajar to<br />
improve airflow. If this fails there are fungicides like No<br />
Damp available.
StArtinG SeeDSfLoWerS Flower Indoor Seeding Outdoor Seeding Germination Temperature Germination<br />
Time Time (Celsius) (days)<br />
African Daisy Mar 20 - 28 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 12 - 18<br />
Ageratum Feb 20 - 28 May 1 - 15 18 - 24 15 - 20<br />
Alyssum Mar 15 - 30 May 1 - 10 24 - 27 3 - 5<br />
Amaranthus Feb 20 - 28 - 18 - 24 15 - 20<br />
Aster Mar 1 - 15 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 12 - 15<br />
Aubretia Mar 15 - 30 May 10 - 20 16 - 22 18 - 25<br />
Baby’s Breath Mar 15 - 30 May 1 - 10 18 - 22 12 - 15<br />
Bachelor’s Button Mar 15 - 30 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 18 - 22<br />
Balsam Mar 1 - 20 May 1 - 15 18 - 24 12 - 15<br />
Begonia Feb 1 - 28 - 18 - 24 18 - 22<br />
Bells of Ireland Mar 1 - 15 - 10 - 13 25 - 35<br />
Canterbury Bells - May 15 - 30 22 -24 14 - 21<br />
Calendula Mar 20 - 30 May 1 - 10 17 - 23 12 - 15<br />
California Poppy - May 1 - 10 18 - 24 20 - 25<br />
Candytuft Mar 1 - 20 May 1 - 15 18 - 24 12 - 30<br />
Carnation Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 15 18 - 24 10 - 15<br />
Castor Bean Mar 15 - 20 May 10 - 20 22 - 26 12 - 18<br />
Celosia Mar 10 - 20 May 15 - 20 18 - 24 12 - 15<br />
Chinese Lantern Feb 1 - 28 May 1 - 20 18 - 24 18 - 24<br />
Christmas Pepper Apr 1 - Jun 15 - 23 - 27 20 - 28<br />
Cineraria Mar 1 - 15 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 12 - 15<br />
Chrysanthemum Mar 1 - 10 May 15 - 20 16 - 18 12 - 15<br />
Clarkia - May 10 - 20 18 - 24 12 - 18<br />
Cleome Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 13 - 27 15 - 20<br />
Coleus Mar 1 - 15 - 23 - 27 16 - 20<br />
Columbine Mar 1 - 15 - 18 - 24 28 - 36<br />
Cosmos Apr 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 6 - 12<br />
Cynoglossum Mar 15 - 20 May 20 - 30 22 - 24 7 - 14<br />
Dahlia Mar 10 - 20 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 6 - 12<br />
Delphinium Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 13 - 18 18 - 25<br />
Dianthus Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 10 - 15<br />
Digitalis Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 6 - 10<br />
Dusty Miller Feb 1 - 10 - 19 - 23 6 - 10<br />
Euphorbia Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 18 - 22<br />
Four O’Clock - June 1 - 10 18 - 24 10 - 15<br />
Gaillardia Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 15 - 20<br />
Geranium Jan 10 - 25 - 22 - 24 12 - 18<br />
Geum Mar 1 - 10 Mar 15 - 30 22 - 24 28 - 30<br />
Godetia Apr 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 16 - 22 12 - 20<br />
Hollyhock May 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 15 - 18 10 - 12<br />
Impatiens Feb 15 - 20 - 21 - 24 18 - 22<br />
Larkspur Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 12 - 15 20 - 25<br />
Lathyrus(Sweet Pea) Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 12 - 15<br />
Lavatera - May 1 - 10 18 - 24 10 - 21<br />
Livingstone Daisy Mar 15 - 30 May 1 - 10 21 - 22 12 - 18<br />
Lobelia Feb 20 - 28 - 18 -24 15 - 20<br />
Lupine May July 12 - 14 14 - 16<br />
Marigold Mar 10 - 20 May 15 - 25 18 - 26 5 - 10<br />
Money Plant Mar 10 - 20 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 12 - 18<br />
Mimosa Mar 15 - 30 May 30 26 - 29 10 - 12<br />
Morning Glory Mar 15 - 30 May 20 18 - 24 10 - 14<br />
Nasturtium Apr 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 18 - 24 12 - 18<br />
StArtinG SeeDS
StArtinG SeeDS<br />
StArtinG SeeDS fLoWerS<br />
Flower Indoor Seeding Outdoor Seeding Germination Temperature Germination<br />
Time Time (Celsius) (days)<br />
Nemesia Mar 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 13 - 15 15 - 20<br />
Nicotiana Mar 1 - 10 May 1 - 10 20 - 26 15 - 20<br />
Night Scented Stock Mar 20 - 30 - 20 - 26 7 - 10<br />
Ornamental Cabbage - June 15 18 - 24 10 - 12<br />
Pansy Feb 1 - 10 - 21 - 24 8 - 15<br />
Petunia Feb 15 - 25 May 10 - 20 18 - 21 12 - 18<br />
Poppy Annual - May 15 - 30 18 - 21 10 - 14<br />
Poppy Iceland Mar 20 - 30 May 15 - 30 18 - 21 12 - 15<br />
Portulaca Mar 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 18 - 21 12 - 18<br />
Salpiglossis Mar 15 - 25 May 10 -20 18 - 26 12 - 18<br />
Salvia Mar 1 - 10 - 24 - 26 12 - 18<br />
Scabiosa Mar 10 - 20 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 12 - 18<br />
Schizanthus Mar 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 15 - 21 15 - 18<br />
Shasta Daisy Mar 15 - 30 June 18 - 24 8 - 14<br />
Snapdragon Mar 1 - 15 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 10 - 15<br />
Statice Mar 10 - 20 May 10 - 20 18 - 24 20 - 25<br />
Sunflower - May 10 - 20 21 - 26 12 - 18<br />
Sweet Pea - Apr 15 - 20 18 - 21 12 - 15<br />
Sweet William Mar 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 18 - 21 10 - 15<br />
Verbena Feb 20 - 28 May 10 - 20 20 - 30 20 -25<br />
Vinca Feb - Mar - 18 - 24 15 - 25<br />
Viola Mar 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 20 - 26 10 - 12<br />
Wallflower Mar 10 - 20 May 10 - 20 20 - 26 10 - 14<br />
Wildflower mix - May 10 - 20 18 - 24 varies<br />
Zinnia Apr 1 - 10 May 20 - 30 20 - 26 5 - 12<br />
StArtinG SeeDS HerBS<br />
Herb Indoor Seeding Outdoor Seeding Approximate days<br />
Time Time from seeding to harvest<br />
Anise - May 15 - 30 70 - 75<br />
Basil - May 15 - 30 80 - 85<br />
Borage - May 15 - 30 80 - 85<br />
Catnip - May 10 - 20 75 - 80<br />
Chervil - May 15 - 30 70 - 80<br />
Chives - May 15 - 30 80 - 85<br />
Dill - May 15 - 30 70 - 75<br />
Lavender Mar 1 - 10 - 100 - 120<br />
Lemon Balm Apr 10 - 20 - 90 - 100<br />
Oregano Apr 10 - 20 - 60 - 80<br />
Peppermint Apr 1 - 10 - 80 - 85<br />
Rosemary - May 10 - 20 75 - 85<br />
Sage Apr 10 - 20 - 80 - 85<br />
Sweet Majoram Apr 10 - 20 - 80 - 85<br />
Summer Savory - May 10 - 20 60 - 65<br />
Thyme Apr 1 - 10 - 85 - 90
StArtinG SeeDS VeGetABLeS<br />
Vegetable Indoor Seeding Outdoor Seeding Approximate days from<br />
Time Time Seeding to harvest<br />
Beans - May 20 - 30 50 - 80<br />
Beets - May 10 - 20 50 - 60<br />
Brussel Sprouts Mar 15 - 30 - 90 - 100<br />
Cabbage Mar 20 - Apr 10 May 15 - 30 70 - 100<br />
Chinese Cabbage Mar 15 - 30 May 15 - 30 70 - 80<br />
Carrot - May 1 - 10 65 - 80<br />
Cauliflower May 10 - 20 May 15 - 30 55 - 75<br />
Cantaloupe Mar 15 - 30 - 110 - 120<br />
Celery Mar 15 - 30 - 120 - 130<br />
Corn - May 10 - 20 68 - 80<br />
Cucumber Mar 10 - 20 May 20 - June 10 55 - 65<br />
Chicory Apr 10 - 20 - 130 - 140<br />
Cress Anytime May 15 - July 31 10 - 2 0<br />
Eggplant May 10 - 20 - 80 - 100<br />
Borecole Kale - May 20 - 30 60 - 75<br />
Kohlrabi - May 10 - 20 60 - 70<br />
Leek Mar 20 - 30 May 10 - 20 60 - 90<br />
Lettuce - May 10 - 30 50 - 70<br />
Onion Mar 10 - 20 May 10 - 30 90 - 110<br />
Okra Apr 30 - May 10 May 20 - 30 55 - 65<br />
Pak Choi - Apr 20 - 30 45 - 55<br />
Parsley - Apr 30 - May 10 70 - 90<br />
Parsnip - Apr 15 - 30 120 - 130<br />
Pea - Apr 15 - 30 60 - 75<br />
Pepper Mar 15 - 30 - 65 - 75<br />
Pumpkin Apr 15 - 30 - 90 - 100<br />
Radish - Apr 30 - July 15 20 - 30<br />
Spinach - Apr 30 - July 15 45 - 60<br />
Squash - May 15 - June 1 50 - 100<br />
Swiss Chard - May 1 - 15 55 - 65<br />
Swede Turnip - May 20 - June 10 70 - 90<br />
Strawberry Feb 15 - May 15 - 140 - 150<br />
Tomato Mar 15 - Apr 1 - 80 - 110<br />
Turnip - May 1 - 15 55 - 60<br />
Vegetable Marrow - May 15 - 30 85 - 100<br />
Watercress Anytime May 20 - 30 60 - 70<br />
Watermelon Apr 1 - 10 May 10 - 20 75 - 90<br />
fLUiD SoWinG<br />
Starting vegetable seeds indoors is usually a good idea, especially in our<br />
climate. It allows you to get a jump start on the season and reap the fruits of<br />
your labour faster. If you don’t get a chance to start the seeds indoors, have<br />
dry soil, or want to sow seeds in the summer months. Here’s a little trick you<br />
can try:<br />
Pre-germinate the seed on sheets of moist paper towel. When the roots are<br />
just showing, before the leaves open, mix the seeds with a half-strength, fungicide-free<br />
wallpaper paste or a special sowing gel. Put the mix into a plastic<br />
bag to prevent the paste oozing out, then squeeze out the mixture into the<br />
prepared seed drill as if you were icing a cake. This helps speed up germination<br />
and keeps the seeds moist while they get established. But don’t forget<br />
to keep them well watered. Most vegetables grow much better when there is<br />
plenty of water available. Check the seed packages if you are not sure.<br />
StArtinG SeeDS
VeGetABLeS<br />
0<br />
VeGetABLeS GettinG StArteD<br />
Planning a Vegetable <strong>Garden</strong><br />
The environmental requirements for growing vegetables are<br />
quite simple. The best vegetable gardens are grown in sunny<br />
locations where the soil is moist and nutritious.<br />
In order to maximize the productivity of your garden plot you<br />
should first consider which vegetables your family enjoys<br />
most. It is senseless to waste valuable garden space on<br />
vegetables that no one is going to eat. Plan the planting<br />
order of your vegetable garden. Start with a sketch showing<br />
approximately where you want to locate each vegetable crop.<br />
Increase your gardens’ production potential by planting coolcrop<br />
vegetables such as broccoli and cabbage early in the<br />
spring. Use these early vegetables when they are mature and<br />
then re-plant the same spot with warm-weather, short-season<br />
crops such as lettuce and radish. Leave only enough space for<br />
development between low-growing vegetables such as radish,<br />
lettuce, and onion. Space can also be conserved by growing<br />
trailing vegetables such as cucumbers on trellises or other<br />
supports. Plant newly developed, dwarf vegetable varieties<br />
that require less space to grow than their larger, traditional<br />
counterparts. If ground space for a garden plot is not available<br />
vegetables can be grown in containers. Vegetables can also<br />
be effectively grown in combination with annuals. Be sure to<br />
organize the garden so that tall growing vegetables do not<br />
shade low growing vegetables.<br />
Planting Vegetables<br />
Soil Preparation: Spade or rototill the garden soil deeply<br />
to break the soil into small clods. Add 454 g (1 lb) of granular<br />
all purpose fertilizer per 30 sq m (37.5 sq yd) and turn the<br />
soil again. Rake the soil smooth and your garden is ready for<br />
planting. Improve the texture of heavy, clay-loam soils with<br />
additions of peat moss, compost, vermiculite, perlite, or sand.<br />
Do not work garden soil when it is wet.<br />
Pre-Planting Care: Due to the short length of our growing<br />
season many vegetables are available as bedding-out plants.<br />
Vegetable bedding-out plants that can not be planted the<br />
same day they are purchased should be watered and stored<br />
in a shady location to prevent excessive wilting.<br />
Planting vegetables from seed or bedding out<br />
plants: Sow vegetable seeds in moist soil, just dry enough<br />
to be workable. Vegetable seeds are generally sown three<br />
times as deep as their diameter. Cover the seeds with fine soil,<br />
compost, vermiculite, or sand. Gently remove vegetable bedding-out<br />
plants from their packs or flats. Plant them in moist<br />
soil deep enough to bury the root ball and a portion of the<br />
lower stem. Plant vegetables started in peat pots or expandable<br />
peat pellets in the same way. In these cases also bury<br />
the peat pot or pellet. When planting vegetable bedding-out<br />
plants be sure to leave adequate room for development.<br />
Watering: After sowing<br />
your vegetable seeds<br />
keep the garden soil<br />
consistently moist until<br />
the vegetable seedlings<br />
are established. Water<br />
freshly planted vegetable<br />
bedding-out plants<br />
thoroughly to give them<br />
a good start; use a starter fertilizer to establish a healthy<br />
root system. Thereafter, water your garden whenever the<br />
top 2.5-5 cm (1-2 in) of soil dries out. It is best to water early<br />
in the day. Keep plant foliage as dry as possible by watering<br />
at the soil level. Water droplets that remain on plant foliage<br />
overnight encourage the development of plant diseases. Do<br />
not rely on rain to water your vegetable garden sufficiently. It<br />
is important to observe the condition of your garden often to<br />
ensure continued growth and productivity.<br />
Post-Planting Care: Keep your garden healthy by removing<br />
weeds as soon as they appear. Weeding is easier when<br />
garden soil is moistened before you weed. This makes the<br />
soil looser and more workable. Remove the weeds between<br />
the rows by scraping a flat-bladed hoe over the top few centimeters<br />
of soil. Pull weeds from within the rows out by hand.<br />
This reduces the chance of disturbing vegetable roots and<br />
prevents weeds from competing with them.<br />
Frost-free Days: Frost free days for a particular area are<br />
the average number of days in a growing season with the<br />
minimum temperature above 0 degrees Celsius. Freezing<br />
temperatures may not necessarily kill all of your plants. This<br />
means that the growing season may be longer than the number<br />
of frost free days. The length of a growing season may<br />
vary within relatively close proximities. For example, the heat<br />
island effect of cities such as Calgary and Edmonton extends<br />
their growing seasons. The average number of frost free days<br />
in Calgary is approximately 105, from May 24 to September<br />
5. Edmonton has a longer growing season because of their<br />
lower elevation and longer distance from the mountains. The<br />
average number of frost free days in Edmonton is approximately<br />
140, from May 7 to September 23. When you decide<br />
to plant and to harvest, take these factors into consideration:<br />
elevation and proximity to mountains, nearness to bodies of<br />
water, wind exposure, personal observation, and whether the<br />
garden is on a north or south slope of a valley.<br />
Vegetables and Vitamins: Vegetables are high in various<br />
vitamins. Vitamins are classified as being fat soluble or<br />
water soluble. Vitamins A, D, E and K are fat soluble, which<br />
means that they can be stored in the body's fat tissue. Vitamins<br />
B and C are water soluble, which means that they<br />
must be taken into the body on a daily basis. Vitamin A is<br />
known as retinal and is present in orange, yellow and green<br />
vegetables. It is especially high in cantaloupe, carrots, peppers<br />
and squash. Vitamin A deficiency is characterized by<br />
dry eyes and night blindness. Vitamin C is called ascorbic<br />
acid and is contained in cantaloupe, peppers, potatoes and<br />
tomatoes. Vitamin C deficiency is called scurvey. Vitamin E is<br />
known as tocopherol and is found in vegetable oils. Vitamin<br />
E deficiency allegedly causes sterility.
VeGetABLeS PotAtoeS, onionS & GArLiC<br />
Seed Potato Planting<br />
Tubers should never be exposed to hot sun or drying winds<br />
before planting keep them in a cool place. Large tubers may<br />
be cut into several pieces, as long as you are careful to leave<br />
two or three eyes in each piece. Let cut surfaces dry before<br />
planting. Soil should be loose and drain well. Dig as deeply<br />
as possible before planting. DO NOT add lime or manure<br />
– both encourage scab formation on potatoes. They are<br />
planted 4-6” deep, and 15-18” apart, which requires 3-4 lbs<br />
per 50-foot row. Fertilizer should not be high in nitrogen, as<br />
this promotes excess top growth. Most vegetable fertilizers<br />
would be appropriate. Consistent watering is essential as<br />
potatoes that become too dry before watering are prone<br />
to hollow heart and scab, and tubers will rot in very wet<br />
soil. Weeds between rows can be hoed – be careful not to<br />
damage roots of potatoes. After harvesting, store them in<br />
the dark about 8 degrees C, with good air circulation, and<br />
they will keep several months.<br />
Seed Potato Varieties<br />
Early<br />
Norland: Red potato, oblong with smooth skin and shallow<br />
eyes. Resistant to scab, a good eating potato.<br />
Warba: White potato, earliest cultivar available. Round,<br />
deep eyes, good yield, but susceptible to scab.<br />
Purple Potato: Early bluish-purple skin, white flesh, uniform<br />
shape; good yielder, hardy.<br />
Mid Season<br />
Kennebec: White potato, large with smooth skin. Stores<br />
well, good for boiling, baking and frying.<br />
Pontiac: Red potato, round heavy yield, drought resistant,<br />
excellent for boiling and mashing, bruises easily.<br />
Yukon Gold: Yellow potato, round, smooth skin, boils and<br />
bakes well, good flavor.<br />
Late Varieties<br />
Bintje: Yellow potato, one of the most popular in Europe.<br />
Good for good for boiling and baking, store well.<br />
Russet Burbank: White potato, large oblong with shallow<br />
eyes. Excellent for baking and frying; stores well.<br />
Garlic<br />
Is a member of the onion family but instead of producing<br />
one bulb, it produces a group of small bulbs called cloves.<br />
They are planted in early spring (or try fall planting, mulching<br />
over winter to protect bulbs). Break bulb apart and plant<br />
cloves separately in rich soil. Garlic needs ample water<br />
over the summer. Insects are not a problem with garlic it<br />
is a natural insect repellent. Harvest bulbs when tops die<br />
down, and hang to dry in bundles.<br />
Onions<br />
Can be planted from seed started early indoors, but planting<br />
“onion sets” (tiny onions from previous year, purchased<br />
in packages) outdoors when ground can be worked, is<br />
much simpler and more dependable. These are available<br />
for multipliers (also called shallots or scallions) bunching<br />
onions, cooking onions and spanish onions.<br />
Multipliers (or scallions) from clusters of bulblets in the<br />
ground. They are usually used as a green onion but can<br />
be allowed to mature, to a larger bulb. If they are going to<br />
be allowed to mature, thin out or space well.<br />
Shallots are larger then multipliers but similar in growth<br />
habit.<br />
Cooking onions produce a large, single bulb, and are<br />
available in yellow, white and red types. They keep well.<br />
Spanish onions are mild flavored, often eaten raw but poor<br />
keepers. They are available in yellow and white types.<br />
Silverskin or pickling onions are started from seed in<br />
March or early April.<br />
Growing Onions<br />
Onions need well-drained, cool soil. Onion sets are planted<br />
in early spring, about the first of May, transplanted (either<br />
purchased or your own grown from seed) are set out a little<br />
later. Use an onion maggot killer when planting to prevent<br />
damage from these pests. Do not plant too deep the bulb<br />
should ½ - 1” below the ground. They must never be allowed<br />
to dry out. Keep the soil evenly moist. A fertilizer<br />
lower in nitrogen (such as 3-11-0 or a bulb fertilizer) would<br />
be suitable. As the days lengthen and the temperature rises<br />
the tops stop growing and the bulb enlarges. Stop watering<br />
mid-August. The tops will wilt and fall over naturally,<br />
indicating it is time to harvest. Store clean, dry onions in<br />
a dry, cool place.<br />
Chives<br />
A hardy perennial that can be clipped continuously all<br />
summer to provide an onion like flavor to salads, dips,<br />
sauces, etc. Chives prefer rich, moist soil in full sun but<br />
will tolerate partial shade. They can be used fresh, frozen<br />
or dried. There are also “garlic chives” like regular chives<br />
but tall with a garlic flavor. If not clipped regularly, chives<br />
produce pom-poms of lavender flowers.<br />
Leeks<br />
Are a mild flavored member of the onion family. They do<br />
not form bulbs as onions do. To get long, white stems,<br />
plant in trenches 4-6 inches deep and hill up as the plant<br />
grows. They take 80-90 days to grow from transplants and<br />
140-150 days from seed, so seed must be started indoors<br />
by the end of March.<br />
VeGetABLeS 1
VeGetABLeS<br />
2<br />
VeGetABLeS<br />
Asparagus<br />
Asparagus is normally grown from roots or year-old crowns<br />
since growing from seed is unreliable and it takes three<br />
years until the plant is mature enough to harvest. Plant<br />
between May 10 and 30, 15” apart in a trench with the<br />
buds 6” below the ground level but with only a thin layer<br />
of earth covering them. Fill in this trench as the growing<br />
season progresses. Harvesting should begin in early to<br />
mid-spring depending on the season and should last only<br />
4 to 6 weeks. Harvest a very limited number of spears in<br />
the first year after planting. Always allow a few spears to<br />
develop into ferns. These ferns can be pruned occasionally<br />
to keep them at bay but they must remain to feed the<br />
root system throughout the summer; fertilize the plants<br />
occasionally and water as normal.<br />
Days to Harvest: 1 to 3 years<br />
Beans<br />
Plant beans in the spring after all danger of frost has<br />
passed, usually between May 20 and 30. For bush beans<br />
plant seeds about 1” deep and 2” apart in rows 2 to 3 feet<br />
apart; thin seedlings to 3-4” apart. Growing pole beans<br />
requires more space; rows should be 3 to 4 feet apart in<br />
hills 3 feet apart along each row. Use a pole or other form<br />
of support approximately 7 feet tall in the center of each<br />
hill. Plant 3-4 seeds around this pole. Do not let the soil<br />
dry out while the beans are blooming as this will cause the<br />
flowers to drop, reducing your yield. Harvest beans when<br />
they are around 5-6” long and the plant should continue<br />
to produce for several weeks.<br />
Days to Harvest: 48-70 depending on variety<br />
Beets<br />
Beets do best when planted in full sun and well-drained soil.<br />
Seed in mid-May (10-20) outdoors about ½” deep and 1”<br />
apart in rows. Thin as they grow to 3” apart. Take care to<br />
keep weeds down, especially among young seedlings as<br />
beets have difficulty competing at this stage. Harvest the<br />
beets whenever they appear large enough for use; roots<br />
any larger than 3” in diameter are usually too tough and<br />
fibrous. Leave an inch or so of the top attached to the root<br />
after harvest to prevent ‘bleeding’.<br />
Days to Harvest: 45-65 from seed depending on type<br />
Broccoli<br />
The best time to start this member of the cabbage family<br />
is indoors between March 15 and 30. Transplant to the<br />
garden when all danger of frost has passed. Do not allow<br />
plants to remain in potting trays for too long since they<br />
may not mature properly. Plant seedlings 15” apart in rows<br />
spaced up to three feet apart. It is important that broccoli<br />
gets sufficient water, especially as the heads begin to<br />
grow. To harvest cut off the central head along with 5-6”<br />
of stem when it is fully developed but before it begins to<br />
loosen or flower. Side shoots should grow after the central<br />
head is removed.<br />
Days to Harvest: 75 from transplant<br />
Brussels Sprouts<br />
This hardy, slow-growing, long-season vegetable is in the<br />
cabbage family. It requires a long growing season maturing<br />
in the cooler fall days. Seed indoors around March 15-<br />
30 and transplant outside after all danger of frost has<br />
passed. Transplant the seedlings when they reach 3” tall<br />
approximately one foot apart. During dry summer periods<br />
Broccoli Beets Beans<br />
Asparagus Brussels Sprouts
make sure you keep the plants watered and the area<br />
weed-free. Pick or cut sprouts from the stem when they<br />
are firm and around one inch in diameter. Lower sprouts<br />
are the first to mature.<br />
Days to Harvest: 90-100 from transplant depending on<br />
variety.<br />
Cabbage<br />
One of the most popular and healthy vegetables, cabbage<br />
comes in a variety of colors and types from green to<br />
purple and from wrinkled to smooth. Start indoors between<br />
March 20 and April 10 or plant seeds directly in the garden<br />
between May 15 and 30. Seedlings can be hardened off<br />
to allow for earlier planting. Transplants should be spaced<br />
one to two feet apart. Harvest cabbage any time after the<br />
heads form but before they split or become damaged.<br />
Always removed damaged cabbage heads and cut stems<br />
to reduce insect pests and diseases.<br />
Days to Harvest: 65-100 depending on variety.<br />
Carrot<br />
Carrots can be seeded outdoors quite early (May 1-10)<br />
because they can tolerate some frost. The soil should be<br />
worked to a depth of 9” to allow good root growth. Plant<br />
seeds ¼” to ½” deep in rows 1’ to 1½’ apart. Thin seedlings<br />
when they reach an inch in height to 3 per inch for finger<br />
carrots, one or two per inch for a young harvest, and one<br />
per 1-2 inches for large varieties. Keep weeds under<br />
control during the early stages. Harvest carrots when they<br />
reach ½” in diameter for young or finger varieties. Others<br />
should be allowed to grow ¾” in diameter.<br />
Days to Harvest: 50 to 80 depending on variety<br />
Cabbage<br />
Califlower<br />
VeGetABLeS<br />
Chard<br />
Essentially chard is a beet that has been bred for its leaves<br />
at the expense of root formation; there are red, white, or<br />
yellow-veined varieties. Seed outside from May 1 to May<br />
15, ½” to ¾” deep. Thin seeds as they grow to about 5”<br />
apart. Chard tolerates heat better than spinach but an<br />
adequate water supply is still important. To harvest cut<br />
the outer leaves 1 to 2 inches above the ground when<br />
they are around 8 to 12 inches in length. Take care not<br />
to damage the terminal growth bud at the bottom centre<br />
of the foliage.<br />
Days to Harvest: 50-65 from seed.<br />
Cauliflower<br />
Cauliflower is more difficult to grow than other members<br />
of the cabbage family and takes a bit of experience and<br />
a lot of patience. Start cauliflowers from seeds indoors<br />
between April 1 and April 20; move them outside after all<br />
danger of frost has passed since cauliflowers are more<br />
sensitive to the cold than other crucifers. Ensure that<br />
the plants are kept growing throughout the season. Any<br />
interruption from heat, cold, drought, etc. can result in<br />
no heads being formed. Because of this it is important to<br />
water consistently. To blanch (or whiten) the head tie the<br />
outer leaves over the centre of the plant. This prevents the<br />
head from turning green or developing incorrectly. When<br />
the head is mature (firm and white) it can be harvested by<br />
cutting the main stem. Do not allow the heads to become<br />
coarse in appearance as quality will be significantly<br />
reduced.<br />
Days to Harvest: 60 from transplant<br />
VeGetABLeS<br />
Carrots
VeGetABLeS<br />
VeGetABLeS<br />
Corn<br />
Corn requires a lot of light and a long growing season. Sow<br />
seeds outdoors between May 15 and 30 about 1” deep<br />
and 9” to 12” apart. It is best to plant two or more rows of<br />
the same variety to ensure good pollination. Sweet corn<br />
should be protected from cross-pollination by starchy corn<br />
like field or popcorn; pollination by starchy corn will result<br />
in a loss of sweetness. Keep weeds down and ensure a<br />
good water supply while the tassels are emerging through<br />
to harvesting. Pick corn ears when they are full and plump,<br />
usually 20 days after the appearance of the first silk<br />
strands. Signs that the corn is ready to harvest include<br />
drying and browning of the silks, fullness of tip kernels,<br />
and firm-feeling ears.<br />
Days to Harvest: 65-80 days depending on variety<br />
Cucumbers<br />
Cucumbers, as well as other curcurbits such as squash,<br />
pumpkins, and melons, are large vines which grow best<br />
during warm nights and warm days. These plants require a<br />
lot of space in the garden but can be trained onto trellis in<br />
order to save room. Seeds require warm soil to germinate<br />
so it is best to start them indoors and transplant outside<br />
at the end of May/beginning of June. Plant in the late<br />
afternoon or early evening in hills up to 2 feet apart taking<br />
care not to disturb the roots. Water deeply to make sure<br />
the lower roots are wet. All curcurbits benefit from organic<br />
mulches applied in the summer like peat moss, compost,<br />
or herbicide-free lawn clippings to a depth of 3”.<br />
Days to Harvest: 50-70 depending on variety<br />
Eggplant<br />
This vegetable is cold-sensitive and requires a long warm<br />
season. Begin indoors between March 20 and 30 and<br />
transplant after the soil has warmed and the danger of<br />
frost has passed. Plants should be spaced one foot apart.<br />
When the fruits are 6” to 8” long and glossy they are ready<br />
to be harvested. Eggplants need full sun and a consistent<br />
watering regime.<br />
Days to Harvest: 58 from transplant<br />
Kohlrabi<br />
Though it looks similar to a turnip, kohlrabi is actually a<br />
member of the cabbage family. Start the plants indoors<br />
in early April and transplant when the danger of frost has<br />
passed or sow seeds directly outdoors at the end of April.<br />
Plant seeds ¼” to ½” deep and thin to 6” apart. It is best to<br />
harvest kohlrabi when it is small (around 2” in diameter).<br />
Days to Harvest: 55-60 from seed or transplant date<br />
Lettuce<br />
Lettuce does best in cooler temperatures and should be<br />
planted in the early spring or late summer. Seed lettuce<br />
outdoors around the end of May ¼” to ½” deep in rows 12”<br />
to 18” apart. Thin to 4” apart for leaf lettuce or 8” to 10” for<br />
Romaine and other large lettuce types. Cultivate carefully<br />
to avoid disturbing shallow roots and water frequently yet<br />
lightly for good quality leaves. Cut leaf lettuce whenever it<br />
is large enough to be used.<br />
Days to Harvest: 45-85 depending on variety<br />
Corn Cucumber<br />
Eggplant<br />
Lettuce
Muskmelon (Cantaloupe)<br />
Refer to ‘Cucumbers’ for general growing instructions.<br />
Start indoors to allow the plant adequate time to grow in<br />
our short season. When the melons are ripe they should<br />
easily separate from the vine and take on a tan or yellow<br />
color. These plant require light, warmth, and shelter.<br />
Days to Harvest: 70 from transplant<br />
Onions<br />
Plant onion bulbs in the spring as soon as the soil can be<br />
worked; early planting generally results in larger onions.<br />
Plant from sets to produce green onions or from bulbs for<br />
larger onions. For green onions plant sets 1” apart and 1½”<br />
deep. Dry onions should be planted 1” to 2” deep and 3”<br />
to 4” apart. Green onions can be harvested whenever<br />
they appear ready; if they are picked earlier the flavor is<br />
milder. Bulb onions are usually ready in late August or early<br />
September. When the tops are dry pull the onions and dry<br />
in a shaded area for 2 to 4 weeks. When the plants have<br />
dried cut off the tops an inch above the bulb and store<br />
in a container (mesh bag or slatted crate) in a dry, wellventilated<br />
area. It is important that the necks are completely<br />
dry to reduce the likelihood of disease or decay.<br />
Days to Harvest: 60-120 depending on variety<br />
Parsnip<br />
Grow this root vegetable in full sun in deeply turned soil.<br />
Seed between April 15 and 30, ½” deep in rows 18” to 24”<br />
apart. Thin seedlings until they are 6” apart. Since rapid<br />
growth is needed for good quality roots a fertilizer with high<br />
phosphorous is recommended. Parsnips can be harvested<br />
any time they reach a good size. If they are kept in cold<br />
storage for a short period parsnips tend to sweeten and<br />
Onion<br />
Peppers<br />
VeGetABLeS<br />
improve in flavor.<br />
Days to Harvest: 120 from seed.<br />
Peas<br />
Three types of this frost-hardy cool-season vegetable are<br />
grown in Calgary: garden or English peas, snap peas,<br />
and snow or sugar peas. <strong>Garden</strong> peas are grown for their<br />
seeds, while both snap and sugar peas are grown for<br />
their pods. Plant peas outdoors near the end of April 1 to<br />
1½” deep and 2” to 3” apart. Rows should be spaced 18”<br />
to 24” apart. Treat small seedlings with care since overfertilizing<br />
or improper cultivation can damage them. Dwarf<br />
and determinate peas are self-supporting. The taller, more<br />
productive pea vines (indeterminate varieties) require poles<br />
or stakes to climb. Harvest garden peas when the pods are<br />
swollen and round, snap peas before the seeds get very<br />
large, and snow peas when they are still flat.Pick snow<br />
peas often to ensure sweet, fibre-free pods.<br />
Days to Harvest: 55-70 from seed<br />
Peppers<br />
Peppers are a tender warm-season vegetable which<br />
require fairly high temperatures. It is best to start peppers<br />
indoors between March 15 and 30 and then transplant<br />
them into the garden when all danger of frost has passed<br />
and the soil and air are warm. Place transplants 18” apart.<br />
Ensure that the soil is well-drained and well-watered during<br />
dry periods. Pick the fruits at any time they appear to be<br />
ripe; green peppers are usually picked when they are 3”<br />
to 4” long or left to ripen as red or yellow peppers. Hot<br />
peppers can be picked at any stage.<br />
Days to Harvest: 60-90 from transplant depending on<br />
variety<br />
VeGetABLeS<br />
Peas
VeGetABLeS<br />
6<br />
VeGetABLeS<br />
Potato<br />
Potatoes are cool season vegetables that do best in<br />
cooler soils. Plant seed potatoes between May 15 and 30<br />
approximately 10” to 12” apart and cover to a depth of 1”<br />
to 3”. Rows should be spaced two feet apart to allow the<br />
foliage to shade the soil. After the plants have emerged<br />
a mulch can be applied to keep weeds down, conserve<br />
moisture, and cool the soil. After the potatoes break the<br />
surface, build up a ridge<br />
of loose soil around the<br />
plant. This will reduce the<br />
number of greened tubers.<br />
Dig potatoes when they<br />
are 1” to 2” in size for<br />
‘new’ potatoes or allow the<br />
tops to die down before<br />
harvesting.<br />
To avoid scab (rough,<br />
raised corky lesions on<br />
the potato surface) reduce<br />
the application of organic<br />
material; do not apply<br />
manure in the spring.<br />
Days to Harvest: varies depending on type (early, mid,<br />
late)<br />
Pumpkin<br />
Follow ‘cucumber’ instructions for general information.<br />
Start indoors between April 15 and 30 and plant outside<br />
when the soil is warm in an area which receives a lot of<br />
sun. Harvest when the rind is hard and of a deep, solid<br />
color. Pumpkins can be covered during a light frost but<br />
should be brought in if a heavy frost is expected to prevent<br />
such damage as softening.<br />
Days to Harvest: 110-120 from transplant<br />
Radish<br />
Radishes are among the<br />
easiest of vegetables<br />
to grow. Early varieties<br />
usually do best in the spring<br />
but some later-maturing<br />
varieties can be planted<br />
for summer harvest. Seed<br />
directly outdoors any time<br />
between May 1 and July<br />
15 ¼” to ½” deep. Thin the<br />
rows out, leaving ½” to 1”<br />
between plants for spring varieties and 2” to 4” for winter<br />
types like Daikon. Pull radishes when they are young<br />
(around 1” in diameter); leaving them in the ground any<br />
longer results in spongy, poor-tasting roots. Large winter<br />
varieties can be kept in the ground much longer.<br />
Days to Harvest: Spring: 20-30 from seed; Winter: 50<br />
Squash<br />
See ‘cucumber’ for general growing instructions. Many<br />
types of squash are available from zucchini to yellow<br />
crook-neck and other summer varieties to winter types<br />
such as acorn or spaghetti squash. Harvest zucchini when<br />
they are around 6” to 10” long and yellow crookneck at 4”<br />
to 7” in length. Winter squash should be picked when the<br />
stems are greyish and beginning to dry up. Cold weather<br />
will increase the sugar content.<br />
Days to Harvest: Summer: 50-60 depending on type<br />
Winter: 90-100 depending on variety.<br />
Tomato<br />
There are two main types of tomatoes: determinate and<br />
indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes eventually form a<br />
flower cluster at the terminal growing point causing the<br />
plant to stop growing in height. Indeterminate tomatoes<br />
have only lateral or side-branching flower clusters and<br />
grow indefinitely. Indeterminate varieties can be very<br />
late in maturing but are generally more flavorful then<br />
determinate types whose fruit is far quicker to mature<br />
and, in general, easier to control. Start seeds indoors<br />
early in mid to late-March and transplant outside when<br />
all danger of frost has passed (usually the first weekend<br />
in June). Spacing depends on the type of plant - dwarf<br />
plants only need 12”, staked plants 15” to 24”, and some<br />
indeterminates require up to 8 feet between plants. Apply<br />
a mulch after the soil has warmed and ensure consistent<br />
watering throughout the growing season. Pick tomatoes<br />
when they are firm and well-colored. If a heavy frost<br />
is expected harvest all the green fruit and allow them to<br />
continue ripening indoors in a cool, light area.<br />
Days to Harvest: 45-80 depending on variety.<br />
Turnips<br />
These members of the cabbage family require the cool<br />
temperatures of spring and fall as well as full sun for best<br />
results. The leaves can be used for greens and the root<br />
can be cooked like beets. Plant seeds outdoors between<br />
May 1 and 15 and thin to 3” to 4” apart. The soil should<br />
be loosened to 10” to 12” deep for adequate root growth<br />
before the seeds are planted.<br />
Days to Harvest: 55-60 depending on type<br />
Watermelon<br />
For basics regarding watermelons refer to ‘Cucumbers’.<br />
When growing seedless varieties it is important that a few<br />
normal seed types be planted to allow pollination. Start<br />
seeds indoors at the beginning of April or outside at the<br />
end of May at a depth of one inch. Transplant seedlings<br />
when the soil is warm and allow considerable space (plants<br />
should be 3 to 5 feet apart). Watermelons are ready for<br />
harvest when the skin is rough and dull and when the<br />
bottom of the melon turns from light green to yellow.
Allium (Allium species)<br />
These bulbs belong to the large onion family. They produce<br />
6 in. - 5 ft. (15 cm - 1.5 m) tall plants, depending<br />
on the variety, with typical hollow flat basal leaves. They<br />
also produce few or many white, yellow or pink to purple<br />
ball-shaped flower clusters on tall hollow stems. These<br />
bulbs prefer sunny locations. Plant allium bulbs 4-6 in.<br />
(10-15 cm) deep and 4-6 in. (10-15 cm) apart.<br />
Crocus (Crocus species)<br />
These corms produce dwarf 3-4 in. (7.5-10 cm) plants<br />
with narrow grass-like leaves. They also produce attractive<br />
short-stemmed purple, yellow, white, or striped<br />
cupped flowers during the early spring. There are a few<br />
varieties that flower in fall. These corms can be naturalized<br />
in your lawn or planted under trees or shrubs. Plant<br />
crocus corms in early Sept., 4-6 in.(10-15 cm ) deep and<br />
2-6 in. (5-15 cm) apart.<br />
Daffodil (Narcissus pseudonarcissus)<br />
These bulbs produce 6-18 in. (15-45 cm) plants, depending<br />
on the variety, with flat rush-like basal leaves.<br />
They also produce, in the very early spring, attractive<br />
white, yellow, orange, or bicolored, nodding bell-shaped<br />
single or double flowers.The Narcissus family contains<br />
many types of daffodils, the most common being King<br />
Alfred, a large bright yellow trumpet-like daffodil. However,<br />
there are several other varieties that grow well<br />
here. Most varieties are suitable for forcing indoors.<br />
Plant daffodils bulbs 8 in. (20 cm) deep and 6-8 in.<br />
(15-20 cm) apart.<br />
Hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis)<br />
These bulbs produce 18 in. (45 cm) tall plants with narrow<br />
grass-like basal leaves. They also produce fragrant<br />
showy columnar clusters of yellow, white, pink, or bluepurple<br />
flowers. Plant 6 in. (15 cm) deep and<br />
6 in. (15 cm) apart.<br />
BULB<br />
fAVoriteS<br />
Grape Hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum)<br />
These bulbs produce 4-6 in. (10-15 cm) tall plants with<br />
long narrow leaves. They also produce clusters of blue,<br />
white or mauve urn shaped and drooping flowers. These<br />
bulbs are great for naturalizing, for rock gardens, or for<br />
forcing indoors. Plant muscari bulbs 2 in. (5 cm) deep<br />
and 4 in.(10 cm) apart.<br />
Lily (Lilium species)<br />
<strong>Garden</strong> lilies are one of the most under used bulbs. A<br />
wide range of colors are now available, from the typical<br />
‘Tiger’ orange to red, yellow, peach, rose, pink, purple,<br />
maroon, cream, and white. Many varieties are attractively<br />
spotted. Lilies may planted in the spring or the<br />
fall. Lilies bloom in the mid-summer rather than early<br />
in spring. Plant lily bulbs 6-8 in. (15-20 cm) deep and<br />
12 in. (30 cm) apart.<br />
Striped Squill (Puschkinia scilloides)<br />
These bulbs produce 6 in.(15 cm) tall plants with straplike<br />
leaves. They have pale blue, blue-green striped,<br />
bell-shaped dense flower spikes. These hardy and longlived<br />
bulbs multiply each year. Plant puschkinia bulbs<br />
4 in. (10 cm) deep and 2-4 in. (5-10 cm) apart.<br />
Tulip (Tulipa species)<br />
These bulbs produce 4-30 in. (10-75 cm) tall plants,<br />
depending on the variety, with wide bluish-green basal<br />
leaves. They have solitary flowers on thick upright stems<br />
that arise from the basal leaves. The flower shape can<br />
vary tremendously from slender and pointed to round<br />
and open-faced. Their flowering time can vary from early<br />
April to late May. The flowers are available in almost<br />
every imaginable color including striped, mottled, and<br />
different colored edges. No other spring bulb offers such<br />
diversity as the tulip. Tulips are great for indoor forcing.<br />
Plant tulips bulbs 8 in..(20 cm) deep and<br />
6-8 in. (15-20 cm) apart.<br />
BULBS
BULBS<br />
BULBS yoUr qUeStionS<br />
Q: Can gladioli be started indoors to encourage<br />
earlier flowering?<br />
A: Gladioli can be given a head start by planting them<br />
in April in pots. It is a good idea to dust bulbs with insecticide/fungicide<br />
dust before planting.<br />
Q: What causes white streaks and distorted blossoms<br />
on gladioli?<br />
A: A small insect called thrips can cause damage to both<br />
the corm and the plant. Dust corms prior to storing and<br />
planting and spray for exposed thrips on the plant itself<br />
as soon as insects or damage appear.<br />
Q: How can one prevent squirrels from digging up<br />
bulbs?<br />
A: There are no absolute remedies to this problem but<br />
by planting bulbs at their maximum depths or sprinkling<br />
blood meal onto the soil surface damage may be reduced.<br />
Squirrels do not eat daffodils so planting some<br />
with other bulbs may also help. Some have had success<br />
with putting out a feeder for the squirrels. The animals<br />
feed on sunflower seeds and do not bother to look for<br />
the harder to find bulbs.<br />
Q: Can tulips and other spring flowering bulbs be<br />
planted in outdoor pots in the fall for bloom the<br />
next year?<br />
A: Our climate is very harsh, with extremely cold temperatures<br />
and large fluctuations when our chinooks come<br />
and go. Generally speaking, bulbs in pots tend to either<br />
freeze or rot as a result of these conditions and do not<br />
survive the winter. Container gardening with tulips can<br />
be attempted if you protect the bulbs from the weather.<br />
Containers should be a minimum 14 inches across. If<br />
possible store in a garage or other unheated protected<br />
area. If containers are too heavy to move wrap them<br />
with burlap and cover with snow in the winter.<br />
Q: When should I start my begonias?<br />
A: Ideally, begonia tubers should be started indoors in<br />
March 6-8 weeks before you plan on setting them out.<br />
Plant tuber concave side up just below the surface of<br />
the soil (ideally sterile mix). Place in a well-lit spot that<br />
cools overnight to about 15 degrees C.<br />
Q: When should the flower stem and leaves be cut<br />
down after a bulb has flowered?<br />
A: The flower stem can be cut as soon the flowers are<br />
finished. The leaves should be allowed to die back<br />
before being cut. By planting bulbs around perennials<br />
the yellowing bulb foliage will be hidden.<br />
Q: Which are the hardiest lilies for our area?<br />
A: Tiger and Asiatic lilies are the hardiest. Trumpet and<br />
Oriental can do well here with a good layer of mulch<br />
applied after the ground has frozen.<br />
Q: Which bulbs produce fragrant flowers?<br />
A: Oriental and Trumpet lilies are very fragrant. Tuberose,<br />
acidanthera, hyacinth, some narcissus, tulips<br />
and iris are also fragrant.<br />
Q: Are tulips perennial?<br />
A: Species tulip are quite good at coming back year after<br />
year. Other tulips often act as short lived perennials and<br />
do best when planted 6 to 8 inches deep in rich, well<br />
drained soil, and fed in the spring and fall. Allow the<br />
leaves to die back completely before removing them<br />
since they feed the bulb.<br />
Q: Can bulbs which have been forced be saved and<br />
forced again?<br />
A: Amaryllis can be kept to replant for next year. Hyacinth,<br />
tulip, daffodil, crocus, and paper whites should be<br />
discarded after flowering. In some cases hyacinths can<br />
be planted in the garden in the spring, however, it will<br />
take at least two years for them to reflower.<br />
Q. Why can’t I plant tulips in the Spring?<br />
A. Spring-flowering bulbs such as tulips and daffodils<br />
must be planted in the fall or early winter to bloom in<br />
spring because they require a long period of cool temperatures.<br />
The exposure to low temperatures allows<br />
the bulb to flower. Not only do they need to be planted<br />
in fall but they need to be planted before the ground<br />
freezes to develop roots.
Q. I forgot to plant my spring-flowering bulbs last<br />
fall and I just found them in the garage. Should I wait<br />
until next fall to plant?<br />
A. No. If the bulbs are still firm plant them as soon as<br />
you are able to in the spring. If you leave them too long<br />
they will dry out. These bulbs still may survive and could<br />
even flower this season if you are lucky. However, if you<br />
leave them in the bag you may as well just throw them<br />
out.<br />
Q. Help! It’s the middle of March and my crocuses<br />
have started to sprout but cold weather is forecast<br />
for next week. Will this kill my bulbs?<br />
A. Not usually. Spring-flowering bulbs are very tough. A<br />
short spell of freezing weather will do little if any damage<br />
to the leaves though it may burn the flowers. Warm snaps<br />
during Chinooks can encourage growth but this should<br />
not damage your bulbs either.<br />
Q. What are species tulips?<br />
A. These are varieties that have not been hybridized or<br />
bred. They are basically as they can be found in nature.<br />
As a result species tulips naturalize much more readily<br />
than heavily hybridized bulbs. Though they are usually<br />
smaller they are colorful and unique. Examples of species<br />
tulips are Tarda, Kaufmaniana, and Saxatilis<br />
Q. Which fertilizer is best for my bulbs?<br />
A. When planting spring-flowering bulbs you can use<br />
either a sprinkle of bone meal or commercial fertilizer in<br />
the bottom of the hole to get the roots started. After this,<br />
fertilize with bulb fertilizer in the fall and once again when<br />
the shoots appear in the spring.<br />
BULBS yoUr qUeStionS<br />
Q. Do tulips prefer a sunny or a shady spot in the<br />
yard?<br />
A. Tulips prefer sun but can do alright in the shade. When<br />
planning your garden late in the season remember that<br />
early spring gardens are much brighter as the leaves<br />
have yet to come in on the trees.<br />
Q. My tulip has finished blooming and the leaves<br />
make my garden look ugly. Can I cut them down?<br />
A. No. The leaves are vital in supplying the bulb with nutrients<br />
and energy through photosynthesis. If you remove<br />
the leaves you will quickly exhaust the bulb. Letting the<br />
leaves remain will increase your chances of having the<br />
bulbs naturalize. Plan to plant perennials or annuals in<br />
the area to disguise the fading leaves.<br />
Q. What is a good bulb for shady areas?<br />
A. Most bulbs like a decent amount of sunlight but there<br />
are a few that can adapt to partial shade.<br />
These are glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa),<br />
Siberian squill (Puschkina), checkered lily<br />
(Fritillaria melagris), and some hyacinth.<br />
Planting bulbs in shady areas greatly reduces<br />
the chances of naturalizing and the<br />
amount of blooms.<br />
Q. Will my daffodils multiply like my<br />
tulips?<br />
A. In optimum conditions daffodils will<br />
naturalize. They will split and form new<br />
bulbs and thus new flowers. In less-than<br />
top conditions (ie. Calgary) the bulbs will<br />
split into smaller bulbs and thus smaller<br />
flowers and in poor conditions only the<br />
original bulb will continue to flower.<br />
Q. Why is it recommended to plant<br />
bulbs in clusters?<br />
A. Bulbs planted in groups of odd numbers<br />
tend to look more natural than those planted in rows.<br />
They will complement each other and appear to be more<br />
or at least have a greater impact than a single bulb. Large<br />
bulbs should be planted 3-6 inches apart and smaller<br />
bulbs should be planted 1-2 inches apart to allow for bulb<br />
growth.<br />
BULBS
BULBS<br />
0<br />
BULBSSPrinG fLoWerinG informAtion<br />
Spring-flowering bulbs bloom in March, April, May<br />
& June and must be planted in the fall. They are<br />
popular because they are the first harbingers of spring<br />
time, and provide the spring garden with color and<br />
variety. There are so many different bulbs with as many<br />
colors and heights that combinations are endless. Due<br />
to the large variation in blossoming periods, one can<br />
enjoy flowering bulbs for many months.<br />
Soil Requirements<br />
All soil types are suitable for planting flower bulbs.<br />
Only very wet soil presents problems. Before planting<br />
loosen the soil thoroughly. Heavy clay soil is improved<br />
by mixing gypsum, peat, or compost into topsoil.<br />
Fertilizing<br />
Flower bulbs don’t require extra fertilizer since bulbous<br />
plants have storage food of their own. If the flower bulbs<br />
are to remain in the soil for many years, application<br />
of a slow release fertilizer in fall is recommended. A<br />
balanced complete fertilizer (such as bone meal) is<br />
suitable for bulbs. Additional nourishment provides<br />
sufficient strength for flowering the following spring.<br />
Fertilizing must be repeated every year.<br />
When to Plant<br />
Spring flowering bulbs are planted from September<br />
till November, provided the soil is not frozen and can<br />
be worked easily. Planting before it becomes too cold<br />
provides more time for root growth.<br />
Where to Plant<br />
Spring flowering bulbs can be planted everywhere in<br />
the garden depending on their light requirement: in<br />
sunlight, shade or part-shade; in borders, around a<br />
fence or tree. Low-growing flower bulbs look their best<br />
in an area where they are clearly visible. Tall varieties<br />
are best planted in the back of borders.<br />
How Deep to Plant<br />
The general rule of thumb for spring bulbs is that they<br />
should be planted three times as deep as they are<br />
high. More specifically, the underside of the bulb (the<br />
flat side), should be 8 inches deep for large bulbs such<br />
as the tulip, hyacinth and daffodil; and 4 inches deep<br />
for smaller bulbs such as the anemone, scilla, and<br />
muscari.<br />
Watering After Planting<br />
If nature itself does not provide sufficient water after<br />
planting, the plants should be watered by hand. The<br />
plants form roots quicker in moist soil, and this is<br />
important for their further development.<br />
Covering Layer<br />
Flower bulbs benefit from a mulch of leaves or straw. If<br />
the winters are extremely severe and particularly if we<br />
do not have adequate snow cover, a protective mulch<br />
of about 4 inches will prevent alternate freezing and<br />
thawing which can prevent flowering.<br />
Good Combinations<br />
Best results are obtained by taking into consideration<br />
heights, color combinations and flowering periods. It<br />
is preferable to plant the bulbs in small groups, but to<br />
avoid circles or squares, in order to obtain as natural<br />
an effect as possible. <strong>Garden</strong>s may be provided with<br />
long periods of color by planting different bulbs together<br />
which have varying flowering times. Examples to try<br />
are combinations of low-growing crocuses with late<br />
flowering tulips, scilla with early flowering tulips, or<br />
saffodils with Darwin tulips.<br />
Naturalizing<br />
Many spring bulbs are ideally suited for naturalizing,<br />
and they provide the garden with a "natural" look when
planted in the grass, around trees or under shrubs.<br />
Species tulips, low-growing daffodils, crocuses, snowdrops,<br />
and scillas are very suitable for naturalizing.<br />
Taller-growing bulbous plants (ie. Trumpet daffodils)<br />
can best be combined with others. When planting near<br />
trees or among rocks, always use at least six bulbs. If<br />
planting bulbs in grass consideration should be given<br />
to the fact that mowing should not be done until the<br />
flowers and leaves have withered.<br />
Among Ground Covers<br />
Flower bulbs are well suited for planting among ground<br />
covers. The roots of flower bulbs sit deeper and therefore<br />
don't rob the ground cover of food. Moreover, once<br />
the flowers have finished blooming, the ground cover<br />
ensures an attractive garden.<br />
Indoors<br />
Many kinds of spring bulbs are suitable for indoor forcing,<br />
enabling them to blossom in the winter. There are<br />
special bulbs such as the amaryllis and the paperwhite<br />
(Narcissus spp.) perfect for providing fragrance and<br />
color during the long winter days. Species such as<br />
hyacinth, tulip, daffodil and crocus will require a cold<br />
period to bloom. Please refer to our Indoor Forcing of<br />
Flower Bulbs section.<br />
Perennial Flowering<br />
By leaving the flower bulbs in the ground after they<br />
blossom, most spring bulbs will bloom again the following<br />
year. It is important to cut the flowers off after they<br />
have finished blooming, but leave as many leaves as<br />
possible on the stem. The plant will receive sufficient<br />
frAGrAnt tULiPS<br />
If you plan on cutting tulips for indoor flower<br />
arrangments, or want to add more fragrance<br />
to your spring garden, here is a list of some of<br />
the more fragrant varieties of tulips.<br />
Angelique (Double Late)<br />
Apricot Parrot (Parrot)<br />
Apricot Beauty (Single Early)<br />
Ballerina (Lily-flowered)<br />
Christmas Marvel (Single Early)<br />
Dillenburg (Single Late)<br />
Keizerskroon (Single Early)<br />
Princess Irene (Triumph)<br />
T. tarda (Species)<br />
storage food to recharge the bulb underground. It will<br />
then bloom again the following spring.<br />
After the Flowering Period<br />
After the flowering period, the choice is leaving the<br />
bulbs in the ground or digging them up. By leaving<br />
them in the ground a sort of naturalizing takes place.<br />
Planting some additional bulbs in the area will create<br />
a splendid effect. You can also dig up the flower bulbs<br />
and plant something different the following season. To<br />
be able to use these bulbs another time, they should<br />
be dug up only when the leaves have completely died.<br />
Remove the soil from the bulbs and save them until fall<br />
in a dry, well ventilated place.<br />
Cold Climate<br />
In a very cold climate, sprouting bulbs can be damaged<br />
by extreme weather and by sudden Chinooks. If<br />
the bulbs are starting to sprout in December or January,<br />
it's wise to cover them with a layer of soil, peat<br />
or leaves. Mulching bulbs in the fall with straw or dry<br />
leaves helps prevent them from sprouting too early. If<br />
it starts to get warmer more quickly than normal, the<br />
bulbs' flowering time may also begin earlier; so you<br />
should be prepared to cover them with sheets or burlap<br />
if a frost is forecast.<br />
Problems<br />
Bulb Dust is helpful in preventing either soil insects<br />
or disease from damaging bulbs. Gopher or squirrel<br />
problems ( they use garden bulbs as a food source)<br />
can be deterred by sprinkling blood meal on top of the<br />
soil where bulbs are planted.<br />
Grape Hyacinth<br />
BULBS 1
BULBS<br />
2<br />
BULBS SPrinG fLoWerinG<br />
Crocus<br />
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Planting Bloom<br />
Variety Color Height Depth/<br />
Spacing<br />
Time Features<br />
DUTCH HYBRID: very large, showy flowers<br />
Flower Record strong purple 4”-6” 3” deep/<br />
2”-6” apart<br />
early spring large, showy flowers<br />
<strong>Golden</strong> Yellow rich, buttercup 4”-6” 3” deep/ early spring Heirloom since 1600; fragrant<br />
yellow 2”-6” apart<br />
Jeanne d’Arc pure white 4”-6” 3” deep/<br />
2”-6” apart<br />
early spring Heirloom: 1925<br />
Pickwick greyish white 4”-6” 3” deep/ early spring Heirloom: 1940<br />
with lilac stripes 2”-6” apart<br />
SPECIES: hardiest crocus; produce small flowers very early in the spring<br />
Advance soft yellow inside, 4” 3” deep/ early spring Orange stamens<br />
violet outside 2”-6” apart<br />
Ruby Giant reddish 4” 3” deep/ early spring Somewhat squirrel resistant<br />
purple 2”-6” apart<br />
Tricolor orange, white, 4” 3” deep/ early spring Bronze/burgundy stamens<br />
lilac<br />
Daffodils<br />
Planting Bloom<br />
Variety Colour Height Depth/ Time Features<br />
Spacing<br />
ROCK GARDEN<br />
Canaliculatus white & yellow 4” 6” deep/ late spring A true miniature<br />
3”-6” apart<br />
Jenny ivory matures 12” 6” deep/ early spring Reflexed petals<br />
to white 3”-6” apart<br />
Peeping Tom pure yellow 12” 6” deep/ early spring Long trumpet with back<br />
3”-6” apart curving petals<br />
Tete-a-tete yellow with 8” 6” deep/ early spring Long lasting; good for<br />
golden cup 3”-6” apart forcing<br />
Thalia white 12” 6” deep/ mid spring Three blossoms per stem<br />
3”-6” apart<br />
LARGE CUPPED<br />
Accent white petals with 16” 6”-8” deep/ early spring Unusual color!<br />
salmon cup 4”-6” apart<br />
Carlton all yellow 18” 6”-8” deep/ early spring Vanilla scent<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
Kissproof creamy yellow with 20” 6”-8” deep/ early spring Unusual color!<br />
large, flat brick red cup 4”-6” apart<br />
TRUMPET<br />
King Alfred bright yellow 18” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring Excellent in cooler climates<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
Mount Hood creamy white 15” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring Local favorite<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
PLANTING DEPTH<br />
Bulbs are usually planted either too deep or too shallow.<br />
For best results, bulbs should be planted THREE times as deep as their diameter.
BULBS SPrinG fLoWerinG<br />
Daffodils<br />
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Planting Bloom<br />
Variety<br />
BUNCH-FLOWERING<br />
Color Height Depth/<br />
Spacing<br />
Time Features<br />
Geranium white & orange 15”-17” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring 3-5 flowers per stem;<br />
4”-6” apart heirloom 1930<br />
Yellow Cheerfulness<br />
DOUBLE-FLOWERING<br />
yellow 16” 6”-8” deep/<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
late spring Double flowers<br />
Flower Drift white with 16” 6”-8” deep/ early spring Beautiful, large daffodil<br />
yellow-orange cup 4”-6” apart<br />
Ice King white 16” 6”-8” deep/<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
early spring Very vigorous<br />
Rosy Cloud white petals with 18” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring Cup is double<br />
SMALL CUPPED<br />
pink cup 4”-6” apart<br />
Actea pure white; 18” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring Heirloom 1927<br />
small yellow cup<br />
has red band<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
Barret Browning white with 16” 6”-8” deep/ mid spring One pretty and small<br />
orange-red cup 4”-6” apart flower on a tall stem.<br />
Pickwick Crocus<br />
<strong>Golden</strong> Yellow Crocus<br />
Flower Drift Daffodil<br />
Jeanne d’Arc Crocus<br />
Carlton Daffodil<br />
BULBS<br />
Daffodil
BULBS<br />
BULBS SPrinG fLoWerinG<br />
Tulips<br />
Planting<br />
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Bloom<br />
Variety<br />
BOUQUET<br />
Color Height Depth/<br />
Spacing<br />
Time Features<br />
Gypsy Love Raspberry violet 18-20” 6” deep/<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
late spring Great cut flower<br />
Toronto salmon rose 14” 6” deep/<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
mid spring Multi-flowering.<br />
DARWIN HYBRIDS: excellent perennializing tulip; one of the best in Calgary. Many more varieties available!<br />
American Dream yellow with 24” 6” deep/ mid spring Very showy!<br />
red edging 4”-6” apart<br />
Daydream apricot orange 22” 6” deep/<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
mid spring Unusual color.<br />
<strong>Golden</strong> Oxford golden yellow 22” 6” deep/ mid spring Sometimes will have a red<br />
with yellow center 4”-6” apart edge or blush.<br />
Pink Impression deep pink with 24” 6” deep/ mid spring Favorite pink.<br />
black center 4”-6” apart<br />
Parade bright red with yellow base 22” 6” deep/ mid spring Biggest red tulip.<br />
& yellow edged black center 4”-6” apart<br />
Silver Stream creamy yellow; 20” 6” deep/ mid spring Leaves edged with pink and<br />
DOUBLE EARLY<br />
streaked red & pink 4”-6” apart yellow.<br />
Abba deep red 10”-16” 6” deep/ early spring Red is a very popular tulip<br />
4”-6” apart color.<br />
Monte Beau lemon yellow with a 10”-12” 6” deep/ early spring New Variety<br />
broad white edging 4”-6” apart<br />
Peach Blossom<br />
DOUBLE LATE<br />
deep rose 10”-16” 6” deep/<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
early spring Heirloom 1890.<br />
Angelique soft shades of pink 14”-16” 6” deep/<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
late spring Fragrant.<br />
Blue Spectacle reddish purple 14”-16” 6” deep/<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
late spring Interesting variety<br />
Lilac Perfection lilac purple 16”-18” 6” deep/<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
late spring A favorite!<br />
Uncle Tom dark mahogany 18” 6” deep/ late spring Beautiful, deep color.<br />
red 4”-6” apart<br />
<strong>Golden</strong> Oxford Tulip American Dream Tulip<br />
Silver Stream Tulip<br />
Angelique Tulip<br />
Monte Beau Tulip<br />
Blue Spectacle Tulip<br />
Parade Tulip
BULBS SPrinG fLoWerinG<br />
Tulips<br />
Planting<br />
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Bloom<br />
Variety<br />
FOSTERIANNA/EMPEROR<br />
Color Height Depth/<br />
Spacing<br />
Time Features<br />
Easter Parade rose/yellow 16” 6” deep/<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
early spring Just in time for Easter<br />
Flaming Purissima pastel white with 18” 6” deep/ mid spring Streaked blooms.<br />
rose feathering 4”-6” apart<br />
Red Emperor lipstick red with 14” 6” deep/ early spring Other ‘Emperor” colors are<br />
black center 4”-6” apart yellow, orange, and white.<br />
FRINGED lavender, wine, 20”-26” 6” deep/ mid to late spring Feathery, fringed petal edges<br />
red, yellow 4”-6” apart<br />
GREIGHII red, pink, 8”-12” 6” deep/ early spring Very reliable; interesting<br />
red with white stripe 4”-6” apart mottled leaves.<br />
KAUFMANNIANA red, lemon, salmon 6”-8” 6” deep/ early spring Striped, mottled leaves.<br />
pink, salmon variegated 4”-6” apart<br />
LILY-FLOWERING: more available!<br />
Mariette deep rose 22” 6” deep/<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
late spring Great in south facing gardens!<br />
Marilyn peppermint 24” 6” deep/<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
late spring Try with blue tulips for impact<br />
West Point golden yellow 20” 6” deep/ late spring Named after West Point<br />
4”-6” apart Academy<br />
White Triumphator opens ivory yellow 24” 6” deep/ late spring Lovely pure white<br />
PARROT<br />
and turns white 4”-6” apart<br />
Blue Parrot lavender blue with 22” 6” deep/ mid spring Sport of ‘Blue Amiable’.<br />
violet hints 4”-6” apart<br />
Estella Rynveldt deep red with 20” 6” deep/ mid spring Very good cut flower.<br />
ivory flames 4”-6” apart<br />
Fantasy bright pink with green 22” 6” deep/ mid spring Very strong fringed edges.<br />
SINGLE EARLY<br />
streaks and white flames 4”-6” apart<br />
Apricot Beauty shades of apricot 18” 6” deep/ early spring Strong stems, fragrant.<br />
tinged pink 4”-6” apart<br />
Christmas Dream fushia pink with 14” 6” deep/ early spring Good for forcing.<br />
large white base 4”-6” apart<br />
Christmas Marvel cherry pink 14” 6” deep/<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
early spring Good for forcing.<br />
Fringed Tulip<br />
Apricot Beauty Tulip<br />
Marilyn Tulip Flaming Purissima Tulip<br />
Christmas Dream Tulip<br />
Blue Parrot Tulip<br />
Mariette Tulip<br />
BULBS
BULBS<br />
6<br />
BULBS SPrinG fLoWerinG<br />
Tulips<br />
Planting<br />
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Bloom<br />
Variety<br />
SPECIES<br />
Color Height Depth/<br />
Spacing<br />
Time Features<br />
T. clusiana red & white 12” 4” deep/ mid spring Multiply and naturalize well.<br />
peppermint 4” apart<br />
T. saxatilis lavender pink with 10” 4” deep/ mid spring Small, delicate center.<br />
yellow center 4” apart<br />
T. tarda yellow edged in 6” 4” deep/ mid spring Star-shaped flowers!<br />
TRIUMPH<br />
white 4” apart<br />
Attila reddish violet 20” 6” deep/<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
late spring Great with pansies.<br />
Blueberry Ripple white with purple 18” 6” deep/ early spring Exclusive to independent<br />
flames 4”-6” apart garden centers.<br />
Calgary snow white 8”-10” 6” deep/<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
early spring White as spring snow.<br />
Francoise creamy white with 24” 6” deep/ mid spring Large, long-lasting blossoms.<br />
ivory yellow flames 4”-6” apart<br />
Negrita reddish purple 18” 6” deep/<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
mid spring One of the deepest tones.<br />
Princess Irene orange with pale 14” 6” deep/ mid spring Fragrant.<br />
purple flames 4”-6” apart<br />
Rosalie two-toned 20”-22” 6” deep/ mid spring Dark purple stems.<br />
lavender pink 4”-6” apart<br />
Sweet Love soft pink petals with 20”-22” 6” deep/ mid spring New variety.<br />
VIRIDIFLORA<br />
deep rose flames & pale<br />
pink edges<br />
4”-6” apart<br />
Deidre true green petals and 18”-20” 6” deep/ early spring New variety.<br />
greenish white edge 4”-6” apart<br />
Greenland soft to rich pink brushed 18”-20” 6” deep/ early spring New variety. Good cut flower.<br />
with yellow and green 4”-6” apart<br />
Nightrider blue-purple blooms with 18”-20” 6” deep/ early spring New variety. Good cut flower.<br />
grass green flames 4”-6” apart<br />
Attila Tulip Blueberry Ripple Tulip<br />
Francoise Tulip<br />
Princess Irene Tulip<br />
Nightrider Tulip<br />
Rosalie Tulip<br />
Queen of the Night Tulip
BULBS SPrinG fLoWerinG<br />
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Planting Bloom<br />
Variety Color Height Depth/ Time Features<br />
Spacing<br />
ALLIUM<br />
A.christophii lavender 14” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Prefers sunny location.<br />
6” apart Globes of star-shaped flowers<br />
A. giganteum purple-blue 48” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Large globes.<br />
6” apart<br />
A. ‘Globemaster’ purple 36” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Ten inch flower heads.<br />
6” apart<br />
A. moly yellow 11” 3” deep/ early summer Multiplies quickly.<br />
3” apart<br />
A. ‘Mount Everest’ white 48” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Broad leaves; fluffy white<br />
6” apart heads<br />
A. ‘Purple Sensation’ purple 36” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Very reliable perennial.<br />
6” apart<br />
A. sphaerocephalon purple-red 25” 6”-8” deep/ early summer Available in single & double<br />
6” apart forms.<br />
FRITILLARIA<br />
Fritillaria meleagris cream, purple and 8” 4” deep/ mid spring Delicate bell-shaped<br />
‘Checkered Lily’ brown 4” apart checkered flowers.<br />
Fritilaria Imperialis red or yellow 36” 6”-8” deep/ late spring Bulb gives off skunk-like<br />
8” apart fragrance which may repel<br />
squirrels.<br />
GLORY OF THE SNOW<br />
Chinodoxa blue or pink with 5”-8” 3”-4” deep/ early spring Tall plants with narrow grass<br />
white centers 2”-4” apart like leaves and nodding<br />
flowers.<br />
GRAPE HYACINTH<br />
Muscari white, blue, violet 4”-6” 2”-3” deep/ mid spring Double and single varieties<br />
4” apart available. Naturalize well.<br />
HYACINTH<br />
Hyacinthus orientalis white, pink, purple, 8”-12” 6” deep/ mid spring Suitable for forcing; many<br />
blue, yellow, apricot 6” apart varieties of pre-cooled<br />
bulbs available.<br />
IRIS - DWARF<br />
Iris spp. yellow, light blue, blue 6” 2”-3” deep/ early spring Flowers appear before<br />
4” apart leaves in spring. Good for<br />
forcing or rock garden.<br />
BULBS<br />
Fritillaria meleagris Hyancinth<br />
Allium giganteum<br />
Dwarf Iris<br />
Allium moly
BULBS<br />
BULBSSPrinG fLoWerinG<br />
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Planting Bloom<br />
Variety<br />
SNOWDROPS<br />
Color Height Depth/<br />
Spacing<br />
Time Features<br />
Galanthus spp. white 4” 3” deep/ early spring Available in single & double<br />
SIBERIAN SQUILL<br />
2”-3” apart forms. Solitary, nodding<br />
dainty white blooms.<br />
Scilla siberica<br />
STRIPED SQUILL<br />
deep blue 5” 4” deep/<br />
3” apart<br />
early spring Multiplies readily.<br />
Puschkina libanotica blue with dark 5” 4” deep/ early spring Hardy, long-lived bulb.<br />
STAR OF BETHLEHEM<br />
blue stripe 3” apart Good companion for tulips.<br />
Ornithogallum spp. white 7” 4” deep/ late spring Large clusters of star-shaped<br />
6” apart blooms. Plant under trees or<br />
shrubs.<br />
WINTER ACONITE yellow 3” 4” deep/ early spring Tuberous plants with rounded<br />
Eranthis hyemalis 6” apart/ leaves. Solitary, bright yellow<br />
flowers.
BULBS SUmmer fLoWerinG informAtion<br />
Bulbs that bloom in summer, rather than spring, are usually<br />
not as winter hardy as spring-flowering bulbs and cannot survive<br />
the winter outdoors on the Prairies. This group includes<br />
dahlias, gladioli, begonias, some lilies, and numerous small<br />
bulbs. They are often started in pots indoors, in March or April,<br />
and planted outdoors after the last spring frost. In fall they are<br />
dug up, cleaned, allowed to dry,<br />
dusted with Bulb Dust, and stored<br />
in a cardboard box or paper bag<br />
(not plastic) containing vermiculite,<br />
sawdust, or peatmoss in a<br />
cold but frost-free place until next<br />
spring. The inexpensive smaller<br />
bulbs can be treated the same<br />
way but are usually replaced<br />
every year as their size makes<br />
them hard to find once planted<br />
and the cost is minimal.<br />
Gladiolus<br />
For top quality blooms, select<br />
high crowned corms at least 1<br />
½” in diameter. They will produce<br />
a single sturdy stalk with<br />
large flowers. Wide, flat corms<br />
with hollow centres are older,<br />
and not as vigorous. In Calgary,<br />
corms started in the house about<br />
the end of April will have an earlier<br />
flowering season then those<br />
planted directly outside. They<br />
can be planted several to a large<br />
shallow pot (ice cream pails with<br />
holes punched in the bottom, or<br />
large bulb pans work well) in a<br />
mixture of 2/3 potting mix and 1/3<br />
sand, just burying the corm. Keep<br />
slightly moist, and in a bright light<br />
once growth begins. Placing outdoors<br />
when weather permits can<br />
harden them off. Bringing in or protecting if there is danger of<br />
frost, and planted outdoors about the beginning of June. They<br />
should be planted slightly deeper outdoors than they were in<br />
pots. If preferred, corms can be planted directly into outdoor<br />
beds about the end of May.<br />
Gladiolus like a sunny spot, sheltered from wind. They are<br />
planted about six inches apart. Fertilize with an all purpose<br />
fertilizer (15-30-15) monthly. They will bloom in late July and<br />
August, in a wide array of colors.<br />
In fall, after a frost, dig up corms, and cut tops several inches<br />
above the top of the corm. Keep in a warm, dry area for about<br />
two weeks, until the tops are dry. Pull off the old corms, tops<br />
and roots, dust with bulb dust (to prevent any problems with<br />
insects or disease) and store in a frost-free cold, dry place in<br />
vermiculite or peat moss in a cardboard or paper container.<br />
The little “cormels” on the corms can be stored separately and<br />
planted next year – they take about three years to bloom.<br />
Thrips are a problem with gladiolas. They are tiny insects,<br />
which leave long white streaks on leaves and distort blooms.<br />
Dusting with bulb dust before storage and again before planting<br />
is essential. Planting in a different area the next season<br />
is helpful if practical.<br />
Tuberous Begonias<br />
Start tubers indoors at the end of March. Plant the bulbs in a<br />
shallow tray or pot in any well-drained planting medium, i.e.<br />
<strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong>s Professional Mix. Set the tubers in this mix, with<br />
the depression upward about an inch apart, do not cover tuber<br />
with soil. Set the tray in an area where it will have at least 60<br />
F temperature to break dormancy.<br />
Keep rooting medium slightly damp.<br />
Bright light is necessary, but keep<br />
out of full sun and keep water out of<br />
tuber’s depression (the hole in the<br />
centre of the tuber).<br />
As soon as the tubers are well rooted<br />
and shoots are ½” or more long,<br />
transplant into individual 6” pots. Use<br />
the same planting medium as stated<br />
above. Fill pots without disturbing<br />
roots. Do not cover the tuber with<br />
planting medium.<br />
Keep the planted tubers in a warm<br />
area in bright light but shaded from<br />
the hot sun. Too much heat will produce<br />
long, weak growth. Feed weekly<br />
with a flowering fertilizer diluted at<br />
half strength, such as Plant-Prod 15-<br />
30-15 or Plant-Prod 20-20-20. They<br />
are both excellent fertilizers. Plant<br />
the tubers outside after the threat<br />
of frost has passed, where they will<br />
be sheltered from wind and hot sun.<br />
Tubers can be removed from pots and<br />
placed in open soil, about 12” apart.<br />
You can leave them in their pots and<br />
plunge them into the flowerbed. This<br />
is sometimes preferable in case of<br />
early frost – it is easier to take them<br />
indoors.<br />
TIP: Stake tall plants or those heavy<br />
with blooms.<br />
In the fall, after a light frost, reduce<br />
watering until the leaves die. Dig up, break stem close to tuber<br />
and allow them to dry in an airy location. Dust tubers with bulb<br />
dust to prevent insect and disease damage and store in dry<br />
peat, perlite or vermiculite. Store in a cold frost-free room.<br />
Dahlias<br />
Similar care to a begonia. Mature plants can range from a<br />
few inches high to several feet, so choose appropriate size<br />
for that area where they are to be planted. They are usually<br />
started in the house about the end of April, to be set outside<br />
after any danger of frost is past. Dahlias are planted so that<br />
the long fingers are spread out pointing down, with the top of<br />
the root just below soil level, in a sunny spot sheltered from<br />
the wind.<br />
The larger types will need staking. If a stake is set in at planting<br />
time it will avoid possible root damage which could occur<br />
if you tried to insert a stake into the ground later.<br />
Fall care is the same as for tuberous begonias.<br />
For more detailed information on summer flowering bulbs, please visit our bookstore.<br />
BULBS
BULBS<br />
60<br />
BULBS GroWinG iriS<br />
When to Plant<br />
For best results, iris should be planted in July, August or<br />
September. It’s imperative that the roots of newly planted Iris<br />
be well-established before the growing season ends. Iris are<br />
also available as potted plants in the perennial lot, and these<br />
can be planted in spring, summer or fall.<br />
Where to Plant<br />
Iris need at least a half-day of sun. In extremely hot climates<br />
some shade is beneficial, but in most climates iris do best<br />
in full sun. Be sure to provide your iris with good drainage,<br />
planting either on a slope or in raised beds.<br />
Soil Preparation<br />
Iris will thrive in well-drained garden soil. Planting on a slope<br />
or in raised beds helps ensure good drainage. If your soil is<br />
heavy, coarse sand may be added to improve drainage. Gypsum<br />
is an excellent soil conditioner that can improve most clay<br />
soils. The ideal pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic), but iris are tolerant<br />
in this respect. To lower the pH of your soil, sulphur may be<br />
added to alkaline soils.<br />
Depth to Plant<br />
Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed<br />
and the roots are spread out facing downward in the<br />
soil. In very light soils or in extremely hot climates, covering<br />
the rhizome with 1 inch of soil may be desirable. Firm the soil<br />
around each rhizome and then water to help settle the soil. A<br />
common mistake is to plant iris too deeply.<br />
Distance Apart<br />
Iris are generally planted 12 to 24 inches apart. Close planting<br />
gives an immediate effect, but closely planted iris will need to<br />
be thinned often. Plants spaced further apart will need less<br />
frequent thinning.<br />
Watering<br />
Newly set plants need moisture to help their root systems<br />
become established. Specific watering information depends on<br />
your climate and your soil, but keep in mind that deep watering<br />
at long intervals is better than more frequent shallow watering.<br />
Once established, iris normally don’t need to be watered<br />
except in arid areas. Over watering is a common error.<br />
Fertilization<br />
Specific fertilizer recommendations depend on your soil type,<br />
but bone meal, superphosphate and10-52-10 are all effective.<br />
A light application in the early spring and a second light application<br />
about a month after bloom will reward you with good<br />
growth and bloom. Avoid using anything high in nitrogen, as<br />
nitrogen encourages rot problems.<br />
Thinning Old Clumps<br />
Iris need to be thinned or divided before they become overcrowded,<br />
generally every 3-4 years. If iris are allowed to become<br />
too crowded the bloom will suffer. Some varieties may<br />
crowd others out and disease problems may be aggravated.<br />
Old clumps may be thinned by removing the old divisions<br />
at the centers of the clumps and leaving new growth in the<br />
ground, or you may dig up the entire clump and remove and<br />
replant the large new rhizomes.<br />
General <strong>Garden</strong> Care<br />
Keep your iris beds clean and free of weeds and debris, allowing<br />
the tops of the rhizomes to bask in the sun. Bloom stems<br />
should be cut off close to the ground after blooming. Healthy<br />
green leaves should be left undisturbed, but diseased or brown<br />
leaves should be removed.<br />
tiPS for iriS GroWerS<br />
Divide clumps of bearded iris every 3 to 5 years<br />
for best bloom; remember they like good drainage<br />
and plenty of sun. Clean up and burn dead bearded<br />
iris leaves in the fall or spring to help control iris<br />
border. Plant plenty of yellows and blues for best<br />
visual results. Lavenders add sparkle! There are<br />
many shorter growing iris to choose from, including<br />
early blooming dwarfs such as dwarf bearded (Iris<br />
pumila), arctic (I. setosa), beardless Japanese (I.<br />
ensata) and Siberian iris (I. sibirica). Irises do not<br />
require frequent division; many beardless irises also<br />
do well in moist spots
For storage, temperatures and moisture conditions vary<br />
for each bulb species. The following list is compiled<br />
from the Netherlands Flowerbulb Information Center<br />
at www.bulb.com. Some of the directions refer to<br />
container grown bulbs and other directions for bulbs<br />
planted out in the ground.<br />
Achimenes - Leave in container, dry out planting medium,<br />
and place at 16-21°C.<br />
Agapanthus - Leave in container with slightly moist<br />
planting medium and place at 2-13°C.<br />
Amaryllis belladonna - Store in container at 13-21°C<br />
Anemone coronaria (St. Brigid and De Caen) - Store<br />
dry at 10-13°C. It is better to leave in the ground and<br />
cover.<br />
Begonia (Tuberous Hybrids) - Dig in fall, and store in<br />
dry peat at 2-5°C.<br />
Canna - Dig in fall, store in dry peat or vermiculite at<br />
5-10°C<br />
Crinum - Store in slightly moist sand at 2-7°C. If grown<br />
indoors in a container, place in a bright room with cool<br />
(13°C) night temperatures.<br />
Crocosmia (Montbretia) - Store in peat or vermiculite<br />
at 2-5°C.<br />
Dahlia - Harvest tuberous roots in fall and store in vermiculite<br />
or dry sand at 2-7°C.<br />
Eucomis - Store dry at 13-20°C.<br />
Freesia - Store in containers dry at 25-30°C.<br />
Galtonia - Store dry in vermiculite at 17-23°C.<br />
Gladiolus - Harvest after foliage dies and before the<br />
BULBS StorAGe<br />
first frost. Store dry at 5-13 °C.<br />
Gladiolus Callianthus (Acidanthera bicolor) - Harvest<br />
in the fall before frost, dry, clean carefully, and store at<br />
13-20°C.<br />
Haemanthus - Bring containers indoors and either store<br />
dry or continue growing at 13-18°C.<br />
Hymenocallis - If container-grown, bring indoors and<br />
grow at 13-18°C. To store bulbs, harvest them carefully<br />
leaving soil around the roots, and store at 16-21°C.<br />
Ixia - Store dry at 20-25°C.<br />
Liatris - Store in moist peat at 2°C.<br />
Lilium - Best left in the ground, but can be stored in<br />
moist peat at 2°C.<br />
Nerine - Store dry or in ventilated container at 2°C.<br />
Ornithogalum - Store dry at 21-27°C.<br />
Oxalis- Store in peat or vermiculite at 2-5°C.<br />
Ranunculus - Store dry at 10-13°C.<br />
Sandersonia aurantiaca - Store in peat or vermiculite<br />
at 13°C.<br />
Schizostylis - Place in moist peat at 7°C.<br />
Sparaxis - Store dry at 20-25°C.<br />
Sprekelia - Store dry in peat or vermiculite at 5-13°C.<br />
Tigridia - Store in peat or vermiculite at -5°C.<br />
Veltheimia - store dry at 25°C. When in containers, take<br />
indoors for winter at 10-16°C.<br />
Zantedeschia (Calla Lilies) - Store dry at 10- 16°C.<br />
Take care not to injure the storage organs.<br />
Zephyranthes - Store bulbs in peat or vermiculite at<br />
10-16°C.<br />
BULBS 61
BULBS<br />
62<br />
BULBS SUmmer fLoWerinG<br />
Dahlias<br />
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Planting<br />
Variety Color Bloom<br />
Size<br />
Height Depth/<br />
Spacing<br />
Features<br />
DECORATIVE DAHLIAS: Good garden display; excellent cut flowers.<br />
Arabian Night Deep burgundy 5” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Popular deep color; rounded petals.<br />
Duet Red with white tips 5” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Excellent color<br />
Mystery Day Deep burgundy 5” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Elegant, slightly pointed petals.<br />
with white tips Nicely formed flower heads.<br />
Blue Bell Purple blue 5” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Best dahlia!<br />
Bonesta White with rose veins 5” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Stunning presentation<br />
DINNERPLATE: The following is only a sample of our many varieties.<br />
Babylon Purple Medium purple up to 10” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Large, well-formed blooms.<br />
Big Wow Wine red up to 10” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Clear green leaves; pointed petals.<br />
Fleur Pure white up to 10” 40” 3” deep/12” apart White<br />
Grand Prix Yellow with up to 10” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Incurved petals give<br />
white tips. interesting texture.<br />
Café au Lait Creamy mocha up to 10” 40” 3” deep/12” apart Beautiful in fall arrangements.<br />
GALLERY: A shorter variety excellent for pot, container, and garden.<br />
Art Fair white; greenish yellow center 3” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Excellent for fall pot displays.<br />
Cezanne Yellow 3” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Clear, vibrant yellow.<br />
Singer Deep red 3” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Good flower form;<br />
GIANT BALL: Rounded, multi-headed flowers.<br />
Babette Lavender pink 5”-6” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Deep color.<br />
Belinda Pink Soft rose pink 5”-6” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Charming in summer arrangements.<br />
Evelyn White with 5”-6” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Bloom in abundance<br />
lavender tips. over a long period.<br />
Marble Ball white with purple streaks 5”-6” 12” 3” deep/12” apart Pristine.<br />
CACTUS: Long narrow petals give a starburst cactus-like appearance.<br />
Black Cat Dark Maroon 5”-6” 20”-50” 3” deep/12” apart Excellent garden or border plant.<br />
Fire Bird Fiery red; gold center 5”-6” 20”-50” 3” deep/12” apart Tall, striking plant.<br />
Mixed Peppermint White with rose streaks 5”-6” 20”-50” 3” deep/12” apart Extra large flower heads up to 8”.<br />
Red Pygmy Blood Red 5”-6” 20” 3” deep/12” apart Border type at around 1.5 feet tall.<br />
POWDER PUFF: A new class of Dahlias with soft, multi-petalled rounded center.<br />
Blue Bayou Double purple 6”-10” 24”-36” 3” deep/12” apart Interesting color<br />
Lambada Soft rose petals,<br />
creamy white center<br />
6”-10” 24”-36” 3” deep/12” apart Similar appearance to Scabiosa<br />
River Dance Red flowers 6”-10” 24”-36” 3” deep/12” apart Exclusive to independent garden<br />
centers.<br />
Arabian Nights Dahlia Duet Dahlia<br />
Babette Dahlia<br />
Red Pygmy Dahlia<br />
Big Wow Dahlia<br />
Blue Bayou Dahlia<br />
Lambada Dahlia<br />
Blue Bayou Dahlia<br />
Cafe au Lait Dahlia<br />
Bonesta Dahlia
BULBS<br />
SUmmer fLoWerinG<br />
Dahlias<br />
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Planting<br />
Variety Color Bloom<br />
Size<br />
Height Depth/<br />
Spacing<br />
Features<br />
WATERLILY: similar in appearance to waterlily flowers.<br />
Le Castel White 4”-5” 40”-45” 3” deep/12” apart Traditional color<br />
Sam Hughes Dark maroon 4”-5” 40”-45” 3” deep/12” apart Beautiful when paired with yellow.<br />
Sympathy Buttercup yellow 4”-5” 40”-45” 3” deep/12” apart Blends with summer color palettes<br />
IMPRESSION: single blooms with a contrasting ruff.<br />
Famoso Sunny yellow 3” 24” 3” deep/12” apart Solid, strong yellow<br />
Fantastico Cherry red with 3” 24” 3” deep/12” apart Red and white compliment each<br />
white ruff other<br />
Festivo Scarlet with gold 3” 24” 3” deep/12” apart Nice impact<br />
BORDER: shorter plants that grow without staking.<br />
Bluesette Purple and pink 4”-5” 24” 3” deep/12” apart Unusual color combination<br />
Extase Salmon and gold 4”-5” 24” 3” deep/12” apart Pink and yellow compliment each<br />
other<br />
Begonias<br />
Planting<br />
Variety Color Bloom<br />
Size<br />
Height Depth/<br />
Spacing<br />
Features<br />
ROSE FORM Pink, scarlet, white, yellow, 4”-5” 14”-18” Concave side up just Double flowers similar in shape to<br />
apricot, peach, rose, salmon below the surface camelia or rose blossoms.<br />
Picottee: Yellow with red edge,<br />
white & pink, white & bright red<br />
6”-12” apart<br />
HANGING Copper, orange, pink, red, rose, 3”-4” na Concave side up just Fully double flowers<br />
BASKET white, yellow, white/pink, below the surface Bright non-fading colors<br />
yellow/red 6”-12” apart Plant in partial to full shade.<br />
NON-STOP Copper, pink, red, yellow, white 2.5” 8”-12” Concave side up just Continuous bloom; early floweryellow/red,<br />
apricot below the surface ing. Excellent for window boxes,<br />
6”-12” apart patios, and low borders.<br />
CRISPA Red/white, red/yellow 3” 12”-18” Concave side up just Large single flowers with frilled,<br />
below the surface<br />
6”-12” apart<br />
ruffled edges of a different color.<br />
CAMELLIA Scarlet, yellow, pink, white 3” 12”-18” Concave side up just Bright, clear colors.<br />
below the surface<br />
6”-12” apart<br />
Beautiful flower form.<br />
RUFFLED White, copper, pink, yellow, 3” 12”-18” Concave side up just Unusual fringed flower petals.<br />
CAMELIA orange, red below the surface Large, even blooms.<br />
Picottee:Cream/apricot, white/red,<br />
white/pink, yellow/red<br />
6”-12” apart<br />
Famoso Dahlia Extase Dahlia<br />
Bluesette Dahlia<br />
Le Castel Dahlia<br />
Sympathy Dahlia<br />
Rose Form Begonia<br />
Hanging Basket Begonia<br />
Non-Stop Begonia<br />
BULBS 6<br />
Camellia Begonia<br />
Ruffled Camelia Begonia
BULBS<br />
6<br />
BULBS<br />
SUmmer fLoWerinG<br />
Gladioli<br />
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Planting<br />
Variety Height Depth/<br />
Spacing<br />
Features<br />
ORCHID up to 24” 6”/6” Smaller delicate blossoms; best planted in clumps.<br />
Types available: Charm, Prins Klaus, Charming Beauty, and Elvira in shades from white to deep pink.<br />
LANDSCAPE 36”-42” 6”/6” Need no staking; perfect for small-scale gardens.<br />
Types available: Coral Seas (soft coral); Award (pink); Florida (yellow with red blotch); High Seas (lavender)<br />
Land O’ Lakes (magenta with white stripes); Norseman (brilliant red); Sunbold (golden yellow); White Wings (white)<br />
POPULAR<br />
VARIETIES<br />
48”-60” 6”/6” Excellent cut flowers with large blossoms.<br />
Types available: Glowing Orange; <strong>Golden</strong> Yellow; Snow White; Vibrant Red; Deep Red; Light Yellow; Peach Parfait; Rosy Pink;<br />
Lavender & White; Pink & Red; White & Red; Yellow & Red<br />
DUTCH HYBRIDS 48” 6”/6” Extra-large corms; unique colors.<br />
Types available: Flevo Eyes (white with raspberry blotch); Don Juan (raspberry red with white throat);<br />
Flevo Safari (Crimson with white brushmark); many more varieties available.<br />
CALIFORNIA<br />
NOVELTY<br />
GLADS<br />
48” 6”/6” Large flowers in unusual colors.<br />
Types available: Airborne (rich royal purple); Cloud Nine (begonia pink); Great Lakes (light blue); Mr. Lincoln (rich dark red);<br />
Green with Envy (green); Popcorn (pale yellow with cream edge).<br />
Lilies<br />
Planting<br />
Variety Height Depth/<br />
Spacing<br />
Features<br />
ASIATIC 36”-48” 6”-10”/12” Reliably hardy; earliest of the lilies to come into bloom.<br />
Types available: Pair of Giraffes ( orange with red spots); Chianti (vintage pink); La Toya (magenta purple);<br />
Marseilles (pretty pink & white); many more varieties available!<br />
ASIATIC PIXIE 12” 6”-10”/12” Can be used as an annual when planted in pots<br />
Great in perennial garden.<br />
Types available: Butter Pixie (primrose yellow); Crimson Pixie (bright red); Denia (soft cherry pink); Orange Pixie (orange)<br />
ORIENTAL up to 48” 6”-10”/12” Large, beautifully fragrant flowers; full sun to part shade.<br />
Favorite of florists; usually the last to bloom.<br />
Types available: Arena (Huge white flowers with yellow markings); Cascablanca (white); Tom Pounce (pink petals with white)<br />
Starfighter (wine red edged in white with burgundy spotting); Stargazer ( bright red to pink with white margins)<br />
FAIRDALE HYBRID<br />
DWARF ORIENTAL<br />
LILIES<br />
18” 6”-10”/12” Good for pot culture; very fragrant.<br />
Types available: Gold Nymph: (white petals with yellow stripes and spots); Pink Nymph (pink with dark pink spots);<br />
Red Nymph: (pink petals with white edges an dark pink stripes); Silver Nymph (bright silvery white)<br />
Charm Gladiolus Airborne Gladiolus<br />
Elvira Gladiolus<br />
Green With Envy Gladiolus<br />
Flevo Eyes Gladiolus<br />
Popcorn Gladiolus<br />
Chianti Lily<br />
Acapulco Lily<br />
Stargazer Lily<br />
Casablanca Lily
Lilies<br />
BULBS<br />
SUmmer fLoWerinG<br />
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Planting<br />
Variety Height Depth/<br />
Spacing<br />
Features<br />
TRUMPET 36”-48” 6”-10”/12” Large trumpet shaped fragrant flowers.<br />
Tolerates partial shade.<br />
Regal’ does well in Calgary area.<br />
Types available <strong>Golden</strong> Splendour (yellow); Pink Perfection (pink); African Queen (yellow with garnet brown markings);<br />
Regal (white with maroon)<br />
L.A. HYBRIDS 40” 6”-10”/12’ Combine the best features of asiatics with longiflorums<br />
Large waxy flowers; subtle fragrance.<br />
Types available: Fangio (dark pink); Rodeo (clear pink with fuschia tips); Royal Perfume (deep fiery red)<br />
TIGER 36” 6”-10”/12” <strong>Garden</strong> favorites since Victorian times; very easy to grow.<br />
Broad, slightly recurved petals dotted with black spots.<br />
Types available:<br />
OTHER<br />
Tigrinium Splendens (gleaming salmon orange); Tigrinium Rose (rich pink with black dots);<br />
Yellow Star (buttery yellow with black dots); Sweet Surrender (white flowers with maroon dots)<br />
Lilium Citronella 36”-48” 6”-10”/12” Lemon yellow with dark brown spots<br />
Lilium Rubrum 36”-48” 6”-10”/12” White and pink<br />
lilium Tenufolium 36”-48” 6”-10”/12” Red and orange<br />
Other<br />
Planting<br />
Variety Colors Depth/ Features<br />
Spacing<br />
ACIDANTHERA White with purple 3” deep/ Similar to gladioli, having sword-shaped leaves and flower spikes.<br />
BICOLOR MURILAE blotch at throat. 6” apart Originally from high mountain regions of East Africa.<br />
ANEMONE White, lavender, blue 3” deep/ Soak tubers overnight then plant in partially shaded moist area.<br />
pink, or purple 6” apart Many varieties<br />
BABIANA Violet, blue, and red 2” deep/ Flowers similar to freesias; leaves and stems are hairy.<br />
2” apart Common name is ‘Baboon Root’.<br />
BLETILLA STRIATA White, blue, pink, 1” deep/ Terrestrial orchid; grow outside in hanging baskets in summer<br />
amethyst red, purple 4” apart Originally from Asia; common name is ‘Chinese Ground Orchid’<br />
BRODIAEA SPECIES Lavender Funnel-shaped flowers and narrow leaves; needs full sun.<br />
4” apart Flowers after the leaves die down.<br />
CALADIUM No flowers but 2” deep/ Leaf colors in shades of green, white, red, and pink with obvious<br />
brilliant leaf color 4” apart veins. Leaves hate wind - plant in a partially shaded, moist,<br />
sheltered area.<br />
CALLA LILY White, pink, yellow, 4” deep/ Flower bract surrounds central spike covering small, true flowers.<br />
(Zantedeschia species) rust, various colors 16” apart Requires full sun, heavy watering, acid soil, and good drainage.<br />
Regal Lily <strong>Golden</strong> Splendour Lily<br />
African Queen Lily<br />
Royal Perfume Lily<br />
Yellow Star Lily<br />
Sweet Surrender Lily<br />
Tigrinium Splendens Lily<br />
Acidanthera Bicolor Murilae<br />
BULBS 6<br />
Calla Lily<br />
Caladium
BULBS<br />
66<br />
BULBS SUmmer fLoWerinG<br />
Other<br />
Variety Colors<br />
Planting<br />
Depth/<br />
Spacing<br />
Features<br />
all bulbs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
CANNA Orange, red, pink, 3” deep/ Large, dramatic feature at the back of a perennial bed.<br />
or yellow 18”-36” apart Canna will bloom longer if dead flowers are removed.<br />
CHILDANTHUS Yellow 1” deep/ Fragrant, lily-like flowers in a cluster at the top of a stem.<br />
FRAGRANS 4” apart Prefers full sun; long-lasting as a cut flower.<br />
COLOCASIA NA 2”-3” deep/ Grown as an ornamental for its large leaves.<br />
(ELEPHANT EARS) 3’ apart Plant in partial shade in moist or wet soil near ponds.<br />
CROCOSMIA Deep orange 2” deep/ Flowers on long branched stems with sword-shaped leaves.<br />
CROCOSMIFLORA 4” apart Flower spikes make attractive, long-lasting cut flowers.<br />
EUCOMIS SPECIES Greenish-white barely covered/ Common name is ‘Pineapple Lily’; two foot high flower spike with<br />
6” apart small star-shaped flowers topped with bracts resembling a pineapple.<br />
GALTONIA CANDICANS White 6” deep/ Tall spike with fragrant, bell-shaped flowers.<br />
8” apart Likes warm spots in the garden; common name: ‘Summer Hyacinth’<br />
GLORIOSA Red & yellow 2” deep/ Tuberous, climbing plant with tendrils on leaves for support.<br />
ROTHSCHILDIANA one per 6” pot Prefers cool roots and moist soil. Climbs up to 6 feet tall.<br />
HOMERIA COLLINA Yellow or peach 3” deep/ Two-inch, cup-shaped, fragrant flowers last only a day but stems<br />
4” apart have many buds opening in succession. Full sun is needed.<br />
HYMENOCALLIS Creamy white barely covered/ Fragrant, spider-like flowers hence the common name ‘Spider Lily’.<br />
8” apart Best suited to a sunny spot - one plant per 5” pot.<br />
IXIA HYBRIDA Pink, yellow, red, 3” deep/ Long-lasting flowers make excellent cut flowers.<br />
orange, cream, white 2-3” apart Needs full sun; also known as ‘African Corn Lily’.<br />
NERINE Pink barely covered/ Funnel-shaped flowers with six spreading segments at tips.<br />
8” apart Needs full sun and ample water.<br />
POLIANTHES TUBEROS White barely covered/ Waxy tubular flowers have a powerful fragrance.<br />
5” Single and double forms available; full sun & good drainage.<br />
RANUNCULUS White, red, pink, gold, 1”-2” deep/ Requires full sun, and good drainage; several blooms on each stem.<br />
ASIATICUS range,bronze,picotte 3” apart Soak corms for an hour before planting.<br />
SPARAXIS TRICOLOR Yellow, pink, purple 2” deep/ Small funnel-shaped flowers in spike-like clusters.<br />
red, or white 2”-3” apart Full sun, good drainage, keep on the dry side.<br />
SPREKELIA Crimson 2” deep/ Spectacular 5” flowers resemble a waxy orchid.<br />
FORMOSISSIMA 2”-3” apart Full sun, ample water, and good drainage required.<br />
TIGRIDIA PAVONIA Orange, yellow, rose, barely covered/ Many of the large cup-shaped flowers are bi-coloured with spots.<br />
crimson, scarlet 6” apart Leaves form a pleated fan; full sun & good drainage required.<br />
ZEPHYRANTHES Pink, white 4” deep/ Crocus-shaped flower with needle-like foliage.<br />
CANDIDA 3” apart Grows best in full sun.<br />
Canna Lily<br />
Colocasia<br />
Crocosmia<br />
Nerine<br />
Ranunculus Asiaticus<br />
Tigridia Pavonia<br />
Zephyranthes Candida
BULBS forCinG inDoorS<br />
Many fall planted, spring flowering bulbs may be grown<br />
indoors to bloom during winter. Some of the most commonly<br />
forced indoor bulbs are small early tulip varieties,<br />
crocuses, daffodils, narcissus, and hyacinths. Pot these<br />
bulbs in a well-drained planting mix and containers with<br />
drainage holes. Plant the bulbs so that they are only half<br />
covered with potting soil. Allow for 1 in. (2.5 cm) or more<br />
of soil below the bulbs. For best results plant bulbs with<br />
the same flowering time in the same container.<br />
Most hardy outdoor bulbs require a cool dormancy<br />
period at 3-10 C (35-50 F) after they are potted. A cold<br />
room or an extra refrigerator can be put into use for this<br />
purpose. However, apples<br />
or cabbages must not be in<br />
the same area since they<br />
release ethylene gas which<br />
will damage the flower buds.<br />
These bulbs require total<br />
darkness during dormancy;<br />
be sure to cover the bulb<br />
pots if they are located in an<br />
unheated porch or daylightexposed<br />
area.<br />
The length the cool period<br />
varies depending on the<br />
type and variety of bulb. The<br />
cooling requirements for some of the popular bulbs have<br />
been listed below to help you with choosing compatible<br />
bulbs.<br />
During the cool period keep the soil barely moist; check<br />
every week or so to make sure the soil does not dry out.<br />
If the bulbs are kept too wet they can rot; dust bulbs with<br />
Bulb Dust before planting to prevent such problems.<br />
Hyacinths can be forced in special hyacinth glasses<br />
which are filled with enough water to touch the base of<br />
the bulb. They will still need to be cooled in water-filled<br />
glasses for 10-12 weeks.<br />
Amaryllis (Hippeastrum species)<br />
These bulbs, usually associated with Christmas, can be<br />
easily forced to flower indoors. They produce four to six<br />
large flowers, 8-9 in. (20-22 cm) on thick, hollow stems<br />
in colors of red, salmon, pink, coral, and white with pink<br />
stripes.<br />
Amaryllis should be planted in August to October for<br />
flowering during the Christmas season. Before planting,<br />
soak the base of the bulb in a shallow dish of lukewarm<br />
water for 12 hours. Pot the bulb in rich sandy soil to which<br />
bone meal (or a complete commercial fertilizer (5 ml or<br />
1 tsp) to a 6 in. (15 cm) pot) has been added. Select a<br />
pot that allows for 1 in. (2.5 cm) of space between the<br />
bulb and the edge of the pot. Set the bulb so that the<br />
neck and one half of the bulb are above the soil surface.<br />
Firmly pack the soil around the base of the bulb. Keep<br />
the soil only slightly moist until the bulb starts to grow,<br />
thereafter keep the soil evenly moist.<br />
Keep potted amaryllis in a cool place until their roots<br />
are well developed. If you want an early bloom increase<br />
the temperature to 22-25 C (70-75 F) when the leaves<br />
appear. After flower buds form feed these bulbs lightly<br />
with a complete fertilizer every two weeks throughout<br />
the blooming season. After the flowers fade cut them off.<br />
Remove the stems after they die, leaving at least 2 inches<br />
of stem on the bulbs. These plants will now produce<br />
large strap-like leaves. During the summer they need a<br />
sunny location; they may be<br />
put outdoors. Sink the pots into<br />
the ground up to the rim and<br />
fertilize and water them like<br />
you would any sun-loving annual<br />
or perennial. Bring them<br />
indoors before the first hard<br />
frost. Gradually reduce the<br />
watering and place the bulbs<br />
in a cool dark room. When the<br />
leaves have withered cut them<br />
off. Allow the bulbs to rest for<br />
several months in a frost-free<br />
dark place until the first signs<br />
of growth appear then repot<br />
the bulbs and repeat the whole process.<br />
Paperwhites (Narcissus tazetta)<br />
These bulbs produce fragrant white daffodil-like flowers<br />
with very little effort at all. They cannot be grown<br />
outdoors but are popular indoor-flowering bulbs. They<br />
do not require a cold dormancy period to encourage<br />
blooming. Plant these bulbs in pebbles in a shallow<br />
pan filled with water to just below the top of the pebbles<br />
and they will bloom in a few weeks. Since they cannot<br />
be forced twice they must be discarded after blooming.<br />
Some varieties are:<br />
CHINESE SACRED LILY: white and dark yellow<br />
GRAND SOLEIL D’OR: yellow<br />
ZIVA: white<br />
Name of Bulb<br />
Crocus<br />
Grape Hyacinth<br />
Hyacinth<br />
Iris (dwarf)<br />
Narcissus<br />
Paperwhites<br />
Siberian Squill<br />
Striped Squill<br />
Tulip<br />
Cooling Time (@ 3-10 C)<br />
5-8 weeks<br />
8-10 weeks<br />
10-12 weeks<br />
5-8 weeks<br />
10-12 weeks<br />
See paragraph above<br />
6-10 weeks<br />
6-10 weeks<br />
10-12 weeks<br />
BULBS 6
PerenniALS<br />
6<br />
PerenniALS yoUr qUeStionS<br />
Q: What is a perennial?<br />
A: In garden centers perennials are herbaceous plants<br />
that live for at least three years. There are however, some<br />
evergreen perennials like bergenia.<br />
Q: Will perennials flower the first year they are<br />
planted?<br />
A: Generally speaking perennials establish their roots<br />
when first planted and flower the following year. Plants<br />
that bloom early in the season are not likely to bloom in<br />
the garden the year they are planted. Later blooming ones<br />
will have more chance.<br />
Q: When is the best time to plant my perennials?<br />
A: Generally in Alberta we suggest planting after the May<br />
long weekend. Planting before then increases the risk of<br />
your new plants being killed by frost.<br />
Q: How can I have flowers all summer long?<br />
A: Make sure to include plants that flower in spring,<br />
summer and fall as well as long bloomers like blanket<br />
flowers (Gaillardia).<br />
Q: Who decides what will be the perennial of the<br />
year?<br />
A: The Perennial Plant Association has a committee that<br />
casts votes to choose one of four selected plants. Criteria<br />
for the plants are: climate types, low maintenance, easy<br />
to propagate, true to seed, and exhibits multiple seasonal<br />
interest.<br />
Q: Which perennials attract butterflies?<br />
A: Asters, blanket flowers (Gaillardia), daylilies<br />
(Hemerocallis), goldenrods (Solidago), and scabiosa<br />
are a few of the many plants butterflies enjoy.<br />
Q: What perennials grow under spruce trees?<br />
A: Look for dry shade plants such as bergenia, goatsbeard<br />
(Aruncus), lady’s mantle (Alchemilla), lamium, lily-of-<br />
the-valley (Convallaria), and snow-on-the-mountain<br />
(Aegopodium) and sweet woodruff (Galium).<br />
Q: Am I limited to Zone 3 Plants?<br />
A: No, zones are guidelines only. There are areas in your<br />
yard that are warmer than Zone 3. You should also mulch<br />
your plants in after the ground is frozen for the winter.<br />
You will never know what you can grow in your garden<br />
until you try.<br />
Q: Why won’t my peony bloom?<br />
A: Don’t expect flowers on a peony in an area that is too<br />
dry or too shady. Newly planted peonies usually will not<br />
bloom for one or two years. Peony crowns must be planted<br />
no shallower than 1” deep and no deeper than 2” below<br />
the surface, any deeper and they will never bloom.<br />
Q: Why won’t my daylily bloom?<br />
A: Plants must be established in good soil; the area must<br />
not be too shady or too dry. Various weather conditions<br />
can reduce blooming. Essentially, daylilies bloom better<br />
some years than others.<br />
Q: Are perennials considered low maintenance?<br />
A: To some degree yes! Many should still be divided<br />
every few years to maintain vigour. Others may be<br />
short-lived but could be allowed to re-seed themselves.<br />
Lower maintenance perennials include balloon flowers<br />
(Platycodon), bleeding hearts (Dicentra), coneflowers<br />
(Echinacea), and peonies (Paeonia).<br />
Q: When can I transplant my iris?<br />
A: Iris plants should be transplanted every 3 to 4 years<br />
(2 to 3 blades per section) just after they finish blooming.<br />
Cut away all soft and rotten pieces, divide into sections.<br />
Replant as soon as possible, with the top of the rhizome<br />
no more than one inch below the soil. Iris will push itself<br />
above the soil.<br />
Q: I have been told that my perennial needs dividing.<br />
What does this mean and how can I do it?<br />
A: Regular dividing of perennials every 3-4 years keeps<br />
the plants healthy and blooming well. Crowding can often<br />
reduce flowering. The best time to divide is early spring<br />
just as the new growth begins to emerge if the plant<br />
blooms in mid-summer or later. If it is spring-blooming<br />
wait until the flowering is finished and then divide. To<br />
divide the plant dig up as much of the root ball as possible<br />
with a spade or a garden fork. Cut the root ball into<br />
approximately 4 in.(10cm) pieces, depending on the size<br />
of the clump. Plant the divided perennials at the same<br />
depth as they were before you dug them up. Ensure that<br />
they get constant moisture when transplanted. When<br />
the top growth begins to show, fertilizer may be applied.<br />
Generally the divided plant will take a year to recover<br />
and eventually surpass its original state. However, if not<br />
divided the plant will gradually fade over time.<br />
Q: Is it a good idea to deadhead my perennials?<br />
A: Removing the spent flowers or forming seed heads is<br />
good practice for some plants as it can encourage further<br />
flowering. If the seed heads have already formed then<br />
scatter the seeds around your garden, some may take –<br />
just be careful when weeding in the spring! For plants like<br />
delphiniums, hollyhocks (Alcea), and foxglove (Digitalis),<br />
leave the seeds to develop and soon you’ll have a thick<br />
bed of flower spikes. These newly seeded perennials can<br />
take over two years to become fully established.
PerenniALS<br />
0<br />
PerenniALS fAVoriteS<br />
Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis)<br />
These plants produce long, lacy, one-sided clusters of<br />
heart-shaped, rose or red-colored flowers during May and<br />
June. Prune back the ragged foliage after flowering. The<br />
variety ‘Alba’ is a white flowering form. Dwarf bleeding<br />
heart (Dicentra formosa) has feathery leaves and produces<br />
heart-shaped pink flowers during May and June. Plant in<br />
partially shaded or shady locations with some protection<br />
from the wind.<br />
Elephant Ears (Bergina cordifolia)<br />
This is one of the first perennials to emerge in the spring. It<br />
is noted for it’s large green leaves and dainty prink flower<br />
clusters on long slender stems. In the fall, leaves turn an<br />
attractive reddish-bronze. They add interest to the garden<br />
through fall and winter since this plant is an evergreen.<br />
Silver mound (Artemesia schmidtiana ‘Silver<br />
Mound’)<br />
These plants have soft, fern-like silvery gray foliage that<br />
forms a compact mound. This foliage creates a stunning<br />
contrast in the landscape, especially next to evergreen<br />
shrubs. They produce small, inconspicuous white or yellow<br />
flowers. Use silvermound as rock garden, accent,<br />
or edging. Plant these perennials in sunny well-drained<br />
locations.<br />
Coral Bells (Heuchera spp.)<br />
These plants have mostly basal, long-stalked, rounded,<br />
and lobed leaves. Open flower spikes arise from the basal<br />
leaves to display tiny bell-shaped flowers all summer<br />
long. Available with dark leaves. Plant these perennials<br />
as rock garden or edging plants in partially shaded fertile<br />
locations. The new varieties of coral bells can add stunning<br />
color to your perennial beds; from the shiny black leaves<br />
of ‘Obsidian’ to the striking bright yellow green foliage of<br />
‘Lime Ricky’.<br />
Daylily (Hemerocallis spp.)<br />
These hardy, reliable plants have narrow, basal, and<br />
arching sword-like leaves. They produce long stalked,<br />
funnel-shaped flower clusters from July to September. The<br />
flowers are available in a wide range of colors – cream,<br />
yellow, orange, red, pink, purple, and maroon. Plant these<br />
heat and drought tolerant perennials in sunny, well-drained<br />
locations.<br />
Hostas (Hostas spp.)<br />
These perennials are grown primarily for their foliage<br />
value. They form attractive clumps of large, dark green<br />
leaves edged with broad white bands. White or lilac tubular<br />
short flower spikes arise from the compact foliage in late<br />
summer. Plant these perennials in shaded or partially<br />
shaded, moist locations.<br />
Irises (Iris spp.)<br />
German or bearded irises have wide, sword-shaped, basal<br />
leaves. They produce six-petalled blossoms (three upright
and three descending) in early summer. The flowers are<br />
available in a wide range of colors – blue, blue/white,<br />
bronze, pink, purple, red, white, and yellow. Plant in sunny,<br />
well-drained, low-fertile locations.<br />
Dwarf irises are miniature versions of german irises and<br />
are good for rock or border plantings in sunny, well-drained<br />
locations.<br />
Siberian irises produce slender, delicate, blue or white<br />
blossoms above a mass of grassy leaves in May or June<br />
and are the most shade-tolerant iris.<br />
Lilies (Lilium spp.)<br />
These stately plants have narrow green leaves borne<br />
along many thick, upright stems. They are available in a<br />
wide variety of sizes and colors including orange, pink,<br />
red, white, and yellow. The large flowers are produced on<br />
strong stems, perfect for cutting. Plant these perennials<br />
in sunny or partially shaded locations.<br />
Peonies (Paeonia spp.)<br />
These plants have glossy, dark green, lobed foliage that<br />
remains attractive all summer long. During June, on the<br />
tip of each of their many upright stems, they produce the<br />
well-known, fragrant, double flowers in red, pink, or white.<br />
These flowers make excellent old-fashioned cut flowers.<br />
Plant the root so the eyes are face up and are exactly 1 in.<br />
PerenniALS fAVoriteS<br />
(2.5cm) below the soil surface. Peonies can be divided in<br />
the spring or fall and are best left in the same location for<br />
five years before dividing. Plant these popular perennials<br />
in sunny, fertile locations.<br />
Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)<br />
People are falling in love with the long blooming easy-care<br />
echinacea. Most people know this plant for its health benefits,<br />
but it is also a very pretty plant! Similar to rudbeckia,<br />
they have the dark brown centers. New varieties are being<br />
introduced faster than you can spell echinacea. Not<br />
only are there the popular purple and white flowers we<br />
all know, but now yellow, orange, pink and mango colors<br />
are available. Echinacea is best planted in full sun and<br />
will tolerate hot, dry areas. Great companion plants are<br />
rudbeckia, salvia, and ornamental grasses.<br />
Sedum (Sedum spp.)<br />
This large group of succulent plants are low-growing and<br />
mat-forming. They feature and endless variety of foliage<br />
types and produce star-like flowers in red, pink, purple,<br />
yellow, or white. Plant these perennials as groundcovers in<br />
hot, dry locations. Be sure to contain roots with edging.<br />
PerenniALS 1
PerenniALS<br />
2<br />
Dianthus barbatus<br />
Sweet William<br />
Echinacea purpurea<br />
Purple Coneflower<br />
Gaillardia grandiflora<br />
Blanket Flower<br />
Heliopsis helianthoides<br />
False Sunflower<br />
Heuchera ‘Snowstorm’<br />
Coral Bells<br />
Dicentra spectabilis<br />
Bleeding Heart<br />
Erigeron speciosus<br />
Fleabane<br />
Gentiana acaulis<br />
Gentian<br />
Hemerocallis ‘Chicago Ruby’<br />
Daylily<br />
Digitalis purpurea<br />
Foxglove<br />
Eryngium ‘Sapphire Blue’<br />
Sea Holly<br />
Geranium ‘Johnsons Blue’<br />
Cranesbill<br />
Heuchera ‘Chocolate Ruffles’<br />
Coral Bells<br />
Dianthus delt. ‘Zing Rose’<br />
Dianthus<br />
Eupatorium ‘Chocolate’<br />
Joe Pye Weed<br />
Helictotrichon sempervirens<br />
Blue Oat Grass<br />
Heuchera ‘Palace Purple’<br />
Coral Bells<br />
Hosta ‘Francee’ Hosta ‘Frances Williams’ Hosta ‘<strong>Golden</strong> Tiara’
Hosta ‘Sum & Substance’ Iris germanica ‘China Dragon’<br />
German Bearded Iris<br />
Lewisia cotyledon<br />
Lewisia<br />
Lupinus ‘Russel Hybrid’<br />
Lupine<br />
Nepeta faasenii<br />
Catmint<br />
Phlox paniculata<br />
Tall Phlox<br />
Ligularia ‘The Rocket’<br />
Ligularia<br />
Lysimachia nummularia<br />
Creeping Jenny<br />
Paeonia lactiflora<br />
Peony<br />
Phlox subulata ‘Candy Stripes’<br />
Creeping Phlox<br />
Lavandula ‘Munstead’<br />
Lavender<br />
Lilium ‘Lollypop’<br />
Asiatic Lily<br />
Malva moschata<br />
Musk Mallow<br />
Papaver nudicuale<br />
Iceland Poppy<br />
Platycodon grandiflorus<br />
Balloon Flower<br />
Leucanthemum ‘Becky’<br />
Shasta Daisy<br />
Linum perenne<br />
Perennial Flax<br />
Monarda didyma<br />
Beebalm<br />
Persicaria bistorta<br />
Fleeceflower<br />
Primula auricula<br />
Primrose<br />
PerenniALS
PerenniALS<br />
Rudbeckia f. ‘Goldsturm’<br />
Black-Eyed Susan<br />
Sempervivum x hybrids<br />
Hens & Chicks<br />
Veronica spicata<br />
Spike Speedwell<br />
2006 Dianthus gratianopolitanus<br />
(Firewitch)<br />
2005 Helleborus x hybridus<br />
(Lenten Rose)<br />
2004 Athyrium niponicum<br />
2003 Leucanthemum x<br />
superbum ‘Becky’<br />
2002 Phlox ‘David’<br />
2001 Calamagrostis x<br />
acutiflora ‘Karl<br />
Foerster’<br />
2000 Scabiosa columbaria<br />
‘Butterfly Blue’<br />
1999 Rudbeckia fulgida var.<br />
sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’<br />
1998 Echinacea purpurea<br />
‘Magnus’<br />
1997 Salvia ‘May Night’<br />
Salvia nemerosa ‘Maynight’<br />
Sage<br />
Tanacetum coccineum<br />
Painted Daisy<br />
Vinca minor<br />
Periwinkle<br />
PERENNIAL OF THE YEAR<br />
1996 Penstemon digitalis<br />
‘Husker Red’<br />
1995 Perovskia atriplicifolia<br />
1994 Astilbe ‘Sprite’<br />
1993 Veronica ‘Sunny<br />
Border Blue’<br />
1992 Coreopsis verticillata<br />
‘Moonbeam’<br />
1991 Heuchera micrantha<br />
‘Palace Purple’<br />
1990 Phlox stolonifera<br />
Saponaria ocymoides<br />
Soapwort<br />
Thymus pseudolanuginosus<br />
Wooly Thyme<br />
Scabiosa ‘Butterfly Blue’<br />
Pincushion Flower<br />
Trollius x cultorum<br />
Globeflower<br />
Nepeta ‘Waker’s Low’<br />
Dianthus gratianopolitanus ‘Firewitch’<br />
PerenniAL of tHe yeAr<br />
2007<br />
Heritage Perennial Profile<br />
Introduced in 1988 in Europe, Walker’s Low<br />
Catmint has become increasingly popular with<br />
each passing year due to its lovely blue-violet<br />
flowers and its long bloom time, attractive greygreen<br />
foliage, ease of propagation, lack of pest<br />
or disease problems, and low maintenance<br />
requirements.
PerenniALS ornAmentAL GrASSeS<br />
This interesting group of landscape plants is finally being<br />
seen and enjoyed in Alberta gardens. Ornamental grasses<br />
are grown for their colorful or striped foliage and showy<br />
seed heads. Grasses look their best when integrated into<br />
the mixed border along with perennials, annuals, shrubs<br />
and evergreens. Low maintenance designs may rely on<br />
ornamental grasses to provide their backbone.<br />
Blue Fescue (Festuca ovina glauca)<br />
Cool season, ht. and spread to 1 ft., hardiness zone 3.<br />
Clumps of fine blue grass; good color contrast plant.<br />
Likes sun. ‘Elijah Blue’ and ‘Skinner’s Blue’ varieties are<br />
available.<br />
Blue Lyme Grass (Elymus glaucus/racemosus)<br />
Warm-season, ht. and spread 3 ft., hardiness zone 3.<br />
Outstanding bright blue foliage color. Fast spreading<br />
clumps are aggressively invasive. Tan colored flower<br />
spikes appear in summer. Bloom time: July - August.<br />
Blue Oat Grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens)<br />
Cool-season, ht.and spread 2-3 ft., hardiness zone 4.<br />
Perfect rounded clumps of intensely blue leaves. This<br />
non-spreader is the best blue grass for general purpose<br />
border use. Tan spikes appear above on graceful arching<br />
stems. Evergreen.<br />
Karl Foerster Grass<br />
(Calamagrostis x acutiflora ’Karl Foerster’)<br />
Cool season, ht. 4-5 ft., spread to 2 ft., hardiness zone<br />
3. Stiff, upright habit. Feathery greenish flower plumes<br />
appear in summer, then change colors until maturing into<br />
stiff wheat-colored spikes, which provide winter interest.<br />
Excellent specimens in borders. 2001 Perennial of the<br />
Year.<br />
Bulbous Oat Grass (Arrhenatherum elatius<br />
bulbosum)<br />
Cool-season, ht. and spread to 1 ft., hardiness zone 2.<br />
Bushy, low clumps of cream and green striped leaves. Tan<br />
color spikes in spring. Combines well with spring bulbs.<br />
Drought tolerant when established.<br />
Hair Grass (Deschampsia caespitosa)<br />
Cool-season, ht. to 3 ft., spread to 15 in., hardiness zone<br />
4. Clump-forming evergreen grass. Tufts of delicate flowers<br />
appear in early summer, gradually turning darker. Mass<br />
planting for best effect. Bloom time: May - August.<br />
Red Switch Grass (Panicum virgatum)<br />
Warm-season, ht and spread to 3 ft., hardiness zone 3.<br />
Airy clouds of flowers turn into red seed heads. Outstanding<br />
orange fall foliage color. Bloom time: July - August.<br />
Ribbon Grass (Phalaris arundinacea)<br />
Cool-season; hardiness zone 2. Fast spreading<br />
clumps of striped leaves; invasive; variegated varieties<br />
require sunlight for coloration. Good ground cover<br />
yet too aggressive for border or rockery. ‘Picta’<br />
(<strong>Garden</strong>er’s Garters), ht. 3 ft., green and cream stripes.<br />
‘Rosea’ (Feesey Form), ht. 2 ft., tricolor pink, cream and<br />
green stripes.<br />
PerenniALS
PerenniALS<br />
6<br />
PerenniALS for SPeCiAL SitUAtionS<br />
ALPINE ROCKERY PLANTS<br />
Anemone - Windflower Gypsophila - Baby’s Breath<br />
Arabis - Rock Cress Heuchera - Coral Bells<br />
Armeria - Thrift Leontopodium - Edelweiss<br />
Aster - Alpine Aster Papaver - Alpine Poppy<br />
Aubrieta - Rock Cress Phlox - Creeping Phlox<br />
Campanula - Bellflower Primula - Primrose<br />
Dianthus - Pink Saponaria - Rock Soapwort<br />
Gentiana - Gentian Saxifraga - Rockfoil<br />
Geranium - Cranesbill<br />
GROUND COVERS<br />
Aegopodium - Snow-on-the-Mountain<br />
Antennaria - Pussy Toe Pachysandra - Japanese Spurge<br />
Arctostaphylos - Kinnikinnick Paxistima - Cliff Green<br />
Bergenia - Elephant Ears Polygonum - Fleece Flower<br />
Cerastium - Snow-in-Summer Potentilla - Cinquefoil<br />
Convallaria - Lily of the Valley Saxifraga - Saxifrage<br />
Cornus - Bunchberry Sedum - Stonecrop<br />
Hosta - Plantain lily Sempervivum -Hens & Chicks<br />
Hypericum - St. John’s Wort Vaccinium - Lingonberry<br />
Lysimachia - Creeping Jenny Vinca - Periwinkle<br />
SHADE OR PART SHADE<br />
Aegopodium - Snow-on-the-Mountain<br />
Ajuga - Bugleweed Hosta - Plantain Lily<br />
Aquilegia - Columbine Iris - Siberian<br />
Astilbe - False Spirea Lamium - Deadnetttle<br />
Bergenia - Elephant Ears Lobelia - Cardinal Flower<br />
Brunerra - Bugloss Myosotis - Forget-Me-Not<br />
Campanula - Bellflower Polemonium - Jacob’s Ladder<br />
Convallaria - Lily of the Valley Primula - Primrose<br />
Dicentra - Bleeding Heart Tradescantia - Spiderwort<br />
Ferns Vinca - Periwinkle<br />
Geranium - Cranesbill Viola - Violet<br />
Galium - Sweet Woodruff<br />
Heuchera - Coral Bells<br />
Pachysandra - Japanese Spurge<br />
Cimicifuga - Snakeroot<br />
ACID SOIL<br />
Caltha - Marsh Marigold Heuchera - Coral Bells<br />
Cimicifuga - Snakeroot Lupinus - Lupine<br />
Dicentra - Fringed Bleeding Heart Phlox - Woodland Phlox<br />
Digitalis - Foxglove Primula - Primrose<br />
Epimedium - Barrenwort Trillium<br />
Gentiana - Gentian<br />
MOIST SOIL<br />
Aruncus - Goatsbeard Lupinus - Lupine<br />
Brunnera - Siberian forget-me-not Monarda - Beebalm<br />
Hosta - Plantain Lily Phytostegia- Obiedient plant<br />
Iris - Japanese; Blue Flag Primula - Primrose<br />
Lobelia - Cardinal Flower Trollius - Globeflower<br />
DRY SANDY SOIL<br />
Achillea - Yarrow Linum - Perennial Flax<br />
Ajuga - Bugleweed Lychnis - Maltese Cross<br />
Artemisia - Silver Mound Paeonia - Peony<br />
Coreopsis - Tickseed Papaver - Iceland Poppy<br />
Echinops - Globe Thistle Penstemon - Beard Tongue<br />
Eupatorium - Joe Pye Persicaria - Fleeceflower<br />
Euphorbia - Cushion Spurge Rudbeckia - Rudbeckia<br />
Gaillardia - Blanket Flower Salvia - Sage<br />
Geranium - Cranesbill Sedum - Stonecrop<br />
Gypsophila - Baby’s Breath Yucca - Yucca<br />
PERENNIALS FOR BUTTERFLIES<br />
AND HUMMINGBIRDS<br />
Agastache - Anise-Hyssop Hesperis - Dame’s Rocket<br />
Alcea - Hollyhock Heuchera - Coral Bells<br />
Allium - Flowering Onion Liatris - Blazing Star<br />
Anaphalis - Pearly Everlasting Lobelia - Cardinal Flower<br />
Aquilegia - Columbine Malva - Mallow<br />
Asclepias - Milkweed Monarda - Beebalm<br />
Aster - Fall Aster Physostegia - Obedient Plant<br />
Chelone - Turtlehead Rudbeckia - Rudbeckia<br />
Coreopsis - Tickseed Scabiosa - Pincushion Flwr.<br />
Echinacea - Purple Coneflower Sedum - Stonecrop<br />
Echinops - Globe Thistle<br />
Eupatorium - Joe Pye Weed<br />
Solidago - <strong>Golden</strong>rod<br />
Shooting Star<br />
PERENNIALS OR WEEDS?<br />
Proper management will prevent certain perennials from<br />
becoming a weed problem. Choose the right perennial for<br />
the right place and use each plant’s characteristics to your<br />
advantage whenever possible: ie. plant a self-seeding variety<br />
in a natural or informal area. If you need to control self-seeding<br />
plants, deadhead them regularly and keep your soil covered<br />
with mulch. Periodic division of spreading plants will help slow<br />
them down, as will barriers to stop invasive roots. To learn about<br />
managing specific perennials please feel free to call or come<br />
in and ask questions.
Names<br />
PerenniALS SHADe & PArt SUn<br />
Height/<br />
Spread Light<br />
Z<br />
o<br />
n e<br />
all perennials listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
Leaf<br />
Color Flower<br />
Color Bloom Soil<br />
Time Moisture Features/Uses<br />
Snow on the Mountain Marsh Marigold<br />
Bugleweed<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
Aconitum cammarum 48/24 in. 3 green purple July to moist Bicolor purple and white flower combination.<br />
MONKSHOOD BICOLOR 120/60 cm white Aug. soil Useful for cut flowers or border.<br />
Aconitum napellus 54/24 in. 2 green purple July to moist Tall sturdy perennial looks good in large<br />
MONKSHOOD 135/60 cm Aug. soil border. Showy spikes of flowers good for cut<br />
flowers<br />
Aegopodium podagraria 12/24 in 1 green green- July to moist Vigorous ground cover with variegated<br />
SNOW-ON-THE-MOUNTAIN 30/60 cm white white Aug. soil foliage. Too invasive for the rock garden or<br />
border.<br />
Alchemilla mollis 12/24 in. 2 silver yellow June to well- Scalloped leaves for edging border.<br />
LADY’S MANTLE 30/60 cm green green July drained Sprays of flowers used in cut arrangements.<br />
Ajuga species 8/18 in. » 3 bronze purple May to moist Low ground cover with colored, round leaves.<br />
AJUGA-BUGLEWEED 15/45 cm June soil Used for mass planting.<br />
Anemone sylvestris 18/24 in. 2 green white May to well- Spreading ground cover with nodding flowers.<br />
ANEMONE-SNOWDROP 45/60 cm June drained Good cover for spring bulbs.<br />
Aquilegia x hybrida varies 2 green various May to moist & Popular perennial available in various colors.<br />
COLUMBINE-HYBRIDS June drained McKanna Giant has long spur flowers for<br />
cutting<br />
Arctostaphylos uva-ursi 6/6 in. 2 green light May to moist Native evergreen ground cover.<br />
KINNIKINNICK-BEARBERRY 15/15 cm pink June acidic Low growing plant for acid area under spruce.<br />
Aruncus dioicus 48/56 in. » 2 green creamy June to moist Large plant, lacy leaves.<br />
GOATSBEARD-GIANT 120/90 cm white July Good at waterside.<br />
Aruncus aethusifolius 12/12 in. » 2 green white June to moist Beautiful beside a water garden.<br />
GOATSBEARD-DWARF KOREAN 30/30 cm July soil Shorter size for a smaller garden.<br />
Astilbe species 36/30 in. » 3 green various June to moist Large showy flower spikes on lacy foliage.<br />
ASTILBE-FALSE SPIREA 90/75 cm Aug. soil Must have moist soil.<br />
Astrantia species 24/18 in. » 4 green pink, red June to moist Starry flowers look like Queen Anne’s lace.<br />
ASTRANTIA-MASTERWORT 60/45 cm white Aug. soil Use in shaded, moist area or as cut flower.<br />
Bergenia cordifolia 18/24 in. 2 green pink June to moist Large glossy green leaves turn bronze in fall.<br />
BERGENIA-HEARTLEAF 45/60 cm white July soil Clusters of flowers rise above foliage in<br />
spring.<br />
Brunnera macrophylla 18/18 in. » 2 green blue May to moist A true perennial forget-me-not.<br />
FORGET-ME-NOT, SIBERIAN 45/45 cm June Heart-shaped leaves.<br />
Caltha palustris 12/12 in. 2 green yellow May moist Buttercup flowers, heart-shaped leaves.<br />
CALTHA-MARSH MARIGOLD 30/30 cm soil wonderful, wet, waterside plant.<br />
PerenniALS<br />
Columbine<br />
Kinnikinnick
PerenniALS<br />
PerenniALS<br />
SHADe & PArt SUn<br />
all perennials listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
Names<br />
Height/<br />
Spread Light<br />
Z<br />
o<br />
n e<br />
Leaf<br />
Color Flower<br />
Color Bloom Soil<br />
Time Moisture Features/Uses<br />
Hosta Bleeding Heart<br />
Lily of the Valley<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
Cimicifuga racemosa ‘Brunette’ 72/36 in. » 4 purple pale Aug to moist Lacy purple leaves and<br />
BUGBANE-BRUNETTE 200/90 cm pink Sept. fragrant pale pink flowers.<br />
Cimicifuga simplex 48/36 in. » 3 light white Sept to moist White flower in the fall.<br />
BUGBANE-WHITE PEARL 120/90 cm green Oct.<br />
Convallaria majalis 6/12 in. 1 green white May to well- Old fashioned, fragrant, bell-shaped flowers.<br />
LILY-OF-THE-VALLEY 15/30 cm June drained Good ground cover for shady areas.<br />
Cornus canadensis 6/8 in. » 2 green white May to moist Native ground cover with glossy leaves.<br />
BUNCHBERRY 15/20 cm June acidic Red berries and fall foliage.<br />
Corydalis flexuosa 12/12 in. » 4 green yellow June to moist & Long bloomer, self-seeds.<br />
CORYDALIS 30/30 cm Sept. drained Blue species not as hardy.<br />
Dicentra formosa hybrids 18/12 in. » 3 green white June to well- Compact mounds of ferny foliage.<br />
BLEEDING HEART-FERNLEAF 45/30 cm red Sept. drained Luxuriant red variety blooms all summer.<br />
Dicentra spectabilis 36/24 in. » 2 green pink May to well- Drooping chains of heart-shaped flowers!<br />
BLEEDING HEART 90/60 cm white June drained Classic shade perennial/old-fashioned<br />
favorite.<br />
Doronicum cordatum 16/12 in. » 2 green yellow May to moist & Heart-shaped leaves are attractive.<br />
LEOPARD’S BANE 40/30 cm June drained Showy daisy-like flowers are good for cutting.<br />
Epimedium species 12/12 in. 4 bronzy yellow May to moist Rare semi-evergreen foliage in various colors.<br />
BARRENWORT 30/30 cm green pink June soil Slow spreading ground cover for shaded area.<br />
Galium odoratum 8/24 in. » 3 green white May to moist Whorled leaves with aromatic flower clusters.<br />
SWEET WOODRUFF 20/60 cm July soil Excellent ground cover for moist shady area.<br />
Gaultheria procumbens 6/12 in. » 3 green light July to moist Shiny aromatic leaves on this ground cover.<br />
WINTERGREEN 15/30 cm pink Aug. acidic Pink flowers followed by red edible berries.<br />
Heuchera hybrid 24/18 in. 3 dark white June moist-well Leaves large and ruffled.<br />
CORAL BELLS-Chocolate ruffles 60/45 cm brown July drained Burgundy underneath<br />
Heuchera hybrid 18/12 in. 2 green scarlet June moist-well Bred in Morden Manitoba.<br />
CORAL BELLS-Northern Fire 45/30 cm mottled red July drained Flowers high over low foliage.<br />
Heuchera hybrid 18/18 in. 3 deep white June moist-well Leaves fade to bronze in Summer.<br />
CORAL BELLS-Palace Purple 45/45 cm purple July drained Plants vary from seed.<br />
Heuchera hybrid 18/12 in. 3 white/ cerise June moist Very bright, ruffled leaves<br />
CORAL BELLS-SNOW STORM 45/30 cm green pink July well drained<br />
Elegans 30/48 in. » 2 blue white July moist, The original and one of the best large-leafed<br />
HOSTA - SEIBOLDIANA 75/120 cm green well true blue hostas; leaves are heavily<br />
drained corrugated.<br />
Bunchberry<br />
Sweet Woodruff
PerenniALS<br />
SHADe & PArt SUn<br />
all perennials listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
Names<br />
Height/<br />
Spread Light<br />
Z<br />
o<br />
n e<br />
Leaf<br />
Color Flower<br />
Color Bloom Soil<br />
Time Moisture Features/Uses<br />
Forget Me Not Jacob’s Ladder<br />
Bugleweed<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
Hosta var. 24/36 in. » 2 green lilac July moist-well Slow Groundcover.<br />
HOSTA-FRANCEE 60/90 cm white edge drained<br />
Hosta var. 24/36 in. » 2 blue white July moist-well Specimen plant. Very showy.<br />
HOSTA-FRANCES WILLIAMS 60/90 cm yellow edge drained<br />
Hosta var. 14/12 in. » 2 green purple July moist-well Edging plant. Fast Grower.<br />
HOSTA-GOLDEN TIARA 35/30 cm yellow edge drained<br />
Hosta var. 24/48 cm » 2 light mauve August moist-well Fragrant flowers. Vigorous<br />
HOSTA-HONEYBELLS 60/120 cm green drained grower.<br />
Hosta var. 30/60 in » 2 golden lavender August moist-well Slug resistant. Very large<br />
HOSTA-SUM & SUBSTANCE 75/150 cm drained leaves<br />
Iris pseudacorus 48/24 in. 2 green yellow May to moist Attractive at the waterside.<br />
IRIS-YELLOW FLAG 120/60 cm June soil Similar to blue flag Iris.<br />
Lamium maculatum 12/12 in. 2 green pink May to well- Attractive ground cover with variegated<br />
LAMIUM-DEAD NETTLE 30/30 cm white white Sept. drained foliage.<br />
Ligularia ‘Desdemona’ 48/18 in. » 3 purple orange June to moist Huge, rounded, purple leaves.<br />
Ligularia dentata ‘Othello’ 120/45 cm July soil Tall spikes of orange flowers.<br />
LIGULARIA-DESDEMONA Useful for background of border.<br />
Ligularia stenocephala 6/3 ft. » 3 purple yellow June to moist Large, rounded, toothed leaves.<br />
LIGULARIA-THE ROCKET 200/90 cm July soil Tall background plant with yellow spikes.<br />
Lysimachia nummularia 4/18 in. 2 green/ gold May to moist Trailing stems quickly form thick carpet.<br />
CREEPING JENNY 10/45 cm yellow Aug. soil Used in hanging baskets or as ground<br />
cover.<br />
Myosotis sylvatica 8/8 in. 3 green true blue May to moist Showy spring display by self seeding<br />
FORGET-ME-NOT-<strong>Garden</strong> 20/20 cm pink June soil biennial. Used as under-planting with<br />
spring bulbs.<br />
Pachistima canbyi 12/18 in. » 2 green acidic Low growing, broadleaf evergreen.<br />
PACHISTIMA-CANBY 30/45 cm Suitable ground cover for shady area.<br />
Pachysandra terminalis 8/12 in. 3 green white May moist Glossy evergreen foliage for a ground<br />
JAPANESE SPURGE 20/30 cm acidic cover. Needs winter protection on the<br />
Prairies.<br />
Polemonium caeruleum 36/12 in. 2 green bluish May to moist Ladder-like leaflets. Bell-like bluish flowers.<br />
JACOB’S LADDER 90/30 cm white July soil Tall perennial for a shady border.<br />
Polygonatum species 24/12 in. » 3 green white May to moist Graceful stems add exotic touch to shady<br />
SOLOMON’S SEAL 60/30 cm June soil area.Delicate bell flowers hang from stems.<br />
PerenniALS<br />
Creeping Jenny<br />
Japanese Spurge
PerenniALS<br />
0<br />
PerenniALS<br />
SHADe & PArt SUn<br />
all perennials listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
Names<br />
Height/<br />
Spread Light<br />
Z<br />
o<br />
n e<br />
Leaf<br />
Color Flower<br />
Color Bloom Soil<br />
Time Moisture Features/Uses<br />
Primula auricula 8/8 in. 3 green mixed April moist Felt-like strawberry shaped leaves.<br />
PRIMROSE-AURICULA 20/20 cm various to May soil Wide range of flower colors with yellow eyes.<br />
Good for rock gardens or edging borders.<br />
Primula denticulata 12/10 in. » 3 green mixed April moist Ball shaped flowers in white and lavender<br />
PRIMROSE-DRUMSTICK 30/25 cm to May soil shade. Needs snow cover or mulch for winter.<br />
Primula vialii 24/12 in. » 3 green mauve- May to moist Gorgeous rocket shaped spikes of flowers in<br />
PRIMROSE-China Pagoda 60/30 cm pink July soil a dazzling mauve-pink combination.<br />
Primula ‘Wanda’ 6/12 in » 2 green purple April moist Double flowers for spectacular spring display.<br />
PRIMROSE-WANDA 15/30 cm pink to May soil Perhaps the hardiest Primrose.<br />
Pulmonaria species 18/12 in. » 3 green various April moist Attractive spotted leaves<br />
LUNGWORT 45/30 cm silver blue to May soil Good for mass plantings as ground cover<br />
spots pink<br />
Rodgersia species 4/3 ft. » 3 purple pink July moist Tinted large leaves; good as tall waterside<br />
RODGERSIA 120/90 cm bronze white soil plant. Misty plumes of flowers similar to<br />
astilbe.<br />
Tiarella cordifolia 12/12 in. » 4 green pink May to moist Evergreen with bronzy winter color.<br />
FOAMFLOWER 30/30 cm July soil Low clumps of foliage with flower sprays.<br />
Trollius x cultorum 36/24 in. » 2 green orange May to moist Large round, buttercup flowers and cut<br />
TROLLIUS-Globeflower 90/60 cm yellow June soil leaves. Popular in shady border or as cut<br />
flowers.<br />
Vinca minor 6/18 in. » 3 green violet May to well- Evergreen ground cover with glossy leaves.<br />
VINCA or PERIWINKLE 15/45 cm white Sept. drained Needs mulch or snow for winter protection.<br />
Viola cornuta 8/12 in. 2 green various May to moist Excellent for bedding, edging or rock gardens.<br />
VIOLA-Johnny Jump Up 20/30 cm Sept. soil Needs mulch or snow for winter protection.<br />
Viola labradorica 6/6 in. 4 purple purple May to moist Shorter rock garden violet.<br />
VIOLA-Labrador Violet 15/15 cm Sept. soil Purple leaves and flowers.<br />
FERNS:<br />
Adiantum pedatum 24/24 in. » 2 light n/a n/a moist Delicate fronds turn gold in fall.<br />
FERN-Northern Maidenhair 60/60 cm green Very beautiful.<br />
Athyrium filix-femina 24/24 in. » 3 bright n/a n/a moist Lacy-looking frond. Creeping rhizome.<br />
FERN-LADY 60/60 cm green<br />
Dryopteris filix-mas 24/24 in. » 2 dark n/a n/a moist Easy, elegant fern.<br />
FERN-MALE 60/60 cm green<br />
Matteucia struthiopteris 4/2 ft. » 1 green n/a n/a moist Native has deciduous fronds, edible fiddle<br />
FERN-FIDDLEHEAD/Ostrich 120/60 cm soil heads. Good ground cover for shady moist<br />
areas.<br />
Cactus<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
perennial guarantee<br />
Perennial plants are guaranteed to start<br />
growing the first season only.<br />
This guarantee ends with the first fall frost.<br />
No over winter guarantee applies to these<br />
plants.<br />
For more information on our guarantees<br />
please see page 7.
PerenniALS<br />
SHADe & PArt SUn<br />
all perennials listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
Names<br />
Height/<br />
Spread Light<br />
Z<br />
o<br />
n e<br />
Leaf<br />
Color Flower<br />
Color Bloom Soil<br />
Time Moisture Features/Uses<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
Achillea ptarmica 18/24 in. 2 green white June to well- Similar cut flowers to those of Baby’s<br />
YARROW-Sneezewort 45/60 cm Sept. drained Breath. Inclined to spread so good for<br />
massing.<br />
Achillea hybrids 30/24 in. 2 green various June to well- Good for cutting fresh or dried flowers.<br />
YARROW-HYBRIDS 70/60 cm Sept. drained Good for mass planting in the border.<br />
Achillea tomentosa 8/12 in. 2 green yellow May to well- Dwarf shorter, earlier blooming yarrow.<br />
YARROW-WOOLLY 20/30 cm July drained Useful rock garden plant.<br />
Aconitum cammarum 48/24 in. 3 green purple July to moist Bicolor purple & white flower combination.<br />
MONKSHOOD-BICOLOR 120/60 cm white Aug. soil Useful for cut flowers or border.<br />
Aconitum napellus 54/24 in. 2 green purple July to moist Tall sturdy perennial looks good in large<br />
MONKSHOOD 135/60 cm pink Aug. soil border. Showy spikes of flowers good for<br />
cut flowers<br />
Aegopodium podagraria 12/24 in 1 green green- July to moist Vigorous ground cover with variegated<br />
SNOW-on-the-MOUNTAIN 30/60 cm white white Aug. soil foliage. Too invasive for the rock garden or<br />
border.<br />
Alcea rosea 84/18 in. 2 green mixed July to well- Old-fashioned favorite biennial reseeds<br />
HOLLYHOCKS 200/45 cm Aug. drained itself. Best in back of border because of<br />
their stature. Large blooms available in<br />
double or single.<br />
Alchemilla mollis 12/24 in. 2 silver yellow June to well- Scalloped leaves for edging border.<br />
LADY’S MANTLE 30/60 cm green green July drained Sprays of flowers used in cut arrangements.<br />
Alyssum montanum 8/24 in. » 3 silver yellow May to well- Good spring blooming rockery plant.<br />
Aurinia saxatilis 20/60 cm June drained Varying shades of yellow flowers.<br />
ALYSSUM-Basket of Gold Ideal for area where cascading plant is<br />
desired.<br />
Anemone sylvestris 18/24 in. 2 green white May to well- Spreading ground cover with nodding<br />
ANEMONE-SNOWDROP 45/60 cm June drained flowers. Good cover for spring bulbs.<br />
Antennaria dioica 6/12 in. 1 silvery pink May to well- Forms dense carpet of silvery foliage.<br />
ANTENNARIA-Pussy Toes 15/30 cm June drained Drought tolerant ground cover.<br />
Anthemis sancti-johannis 18/36 in. 2 green yellow June to well- Hardy, showy members of the daisy family.<br />
Anthemis tinctoria 45/90 cm orange Aug. drained Excellent for cutting. Drought tolerant.<br />
ANTHEMIS-MARGUERITE Kelwayi has deep yellow flowers.<br />
Aquilegia x hybrida 36/24 in. 2 green various May to moist & Popular perennial available in various<br />
COLUMBINE-HYBRIDS 90/60 cm June drained colors. McKanna Giant has long spur<br />
flowers for cutting.<br />
Arabis species 8/24 in. 3 green red,pink May to well- Spring flowering plant cascades over rocks.<br />
ARABIS-WALLCRESS 20/60 cm white June drained Dead head flowers after blooming.<br />
Armeria pseudarmeria 24/12 in. 2 green white June to well- Taller border strain with various flower<br />
ARMERIA-LARGE THRIFT 60/30 cm red Aug. drained shades. Good for cutting, fresh or dried.<br />
Armeria juniperifolia 6/12 in. 3 green pink May to well- Excellent evergreen with grassy leaves.<br />
Armeria maritima ‘Alba’ 15/30 cm red July drained Flowers finally fade into papery<br />
Armeria ‘Dusseldorf Pride’ white everlastings. Suitable rock garden plants.<br />
ARMERIA-THRIFT Also called ‘sea pink’.<br />
Artemisia stelleriana 12/30 in. 2 silver well- Low growing leaves similar to dusty miller.<br />
ARTEMISIA-Silver Brocade 30/75 cm drained Excellent for edging or as ground cover.<br />
Artemisia ludoviciana 36/30 in. 3 silver well- Silver aromatic foliage.<br />
ARTEMESIA-Valerie Finnis 90/75 cm drained Drought tolerant plant for dry areas.<br />
Artemisia schmidtiana 12/18 in. 1 silver well- One of the most popular perennials!<br />
‘Silver Mound’ 30/45 cm drained Fine feathery foliage forms compact mound.<br />
ARTEMISIA-Silver Mound Good for color contrast. Soft to touch.<br />
Aster alpinus 12/12 in. 2 green pink May to well- Short plants display star-shaped daisies.<br />
ASTER-ALPINE 30/30 cm purple June drained Ideal for front of border or rockery.<br />
white<br />
PerenniALS 1
PerenniALS<br />
2<br />
PerenniALS<br />
SHADe & PArt SUn<br />
all perennials listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
Names<br />
Height/<br />
Spread Light<br />
Z<br />
o<br />
n e<br />
Leaf<br />
Color Flower<br />
Color Bloom Soil<br />
Time Moisture Features/Uses<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
Aster-novae-angliae 48/36 in. 3 green red Aug. to well- Taller varieties are excellent for cut flowers.<br />
Aster novi-belgi 120/90 cm pink Sept. drained New England Asters are best for cutting.<br />
ASTER-FALL purple Michaelmas Daisies are fall blooming.<br />
Aubrieta hybrids 6/24 in. 4 gray- pink, red May to well- Popular rock garden plant.<br />
AUBRIETA-ROCKCRESS 15/60 cm green purple June drained Foliage cascades over banks and walls.<br />
Bergenia cordifolia 18/24 in. 2 green pink June to moist Large glossy green leaves turn bronze in<br />
BERGENIA-HEARTLEAF 45/60 cm white July soil fall. Clusters of flowers rise above foliage in<br />
spring.<br />
Campanula medium 36/12 in. » 2 green purple May to well- Old fashioned favorite with big bellflowers.<br />
BELLS-CANTERBURY 90/30cm white July drained Biennial, sometimes self-seeding.<br />
Campanula carpatica 9/12 in. » 2 green purple May to well- Cup-shaped flowers on compact clumps.<br />
BELLFLOWER-Carpathian 20/30 cm white June drained Blue Clips’ is one of our most popular<br />
perennials.<br />
Campanula cochlearifolia 4/12 in. » 2 green purple June to well- Alpine rockery plant with little bells.<br />
BELLFLOWER-Fairy Thimble 10/30 cm Aug. drained Fast spreading plant.<br />
Camp. rotundifolia‘Olympic’ 12/12 in. » 2 green lavender June to well- Also called Blue Bell of Scotland.<br />
BELLFLOWER-OLYMPIAN 30/30 cm Aug. drained Good in border or as cut flower.<br />
Campanula persicifolia 36/18 in. » 2 green purple June to well- Showy, taller bellflower blooms longer.<br />
BELLFLOWER-Peachleaf 90/45 cm white Aug. drained Strong stems good for cut flowers.<br />
Catananche caerulea 24/12 in. 3 gray/ lavender July to well- Cut papery flower for everlasting dried<br />
CUPID’S DART 60/30 cm green Aug. drained flower. Drought resistant plant for hot dry<br />
area.<br />
Cerastium tomentosum 12/24 in. 2 gray white May to well- Popular spreading plant. Drought tolerant.<br />
SNOW-IN-SUMMER 30/60 cm June drained One of the best ground covers for full sun<br />
light.<br />
Centaurea dealbata 30/24 in. 3 gray/ pink- June to well- Sturdy perennial for the border. Thistle-like<br />
CORNFLOWER-PERSIAN 75/60 cm green purple Aug. drained blooms for long lasting cut flowers.<br />
Centaurea macrocephala 4/2 ft 2 gray/ gold- June to well- Good for the back of a border.<br />
CORNFLOWER-GLOBE 120/60 cm green yellow Aug. drained Excellent for cutting, fresh or dried.<br />
Centaurea montana 24/24 in. 2 gray/ bluish- June to well- An old-fashioned favorite bluish flower.<br />
BACHELOR’S BUTTON 60/60 cm green purple Aug. drained Also known as ‘Mountain Bluet’.<br />
Chrysanthemum morifolium 12/8 in. » 3 green yellow Aug. to well- Hardier series of mums produces fall<br />
MUMS-MORDEN 30/20 cm bronze Sept. drained flowers.<br />
Chrysanthemum parthenium 24/12 in. » 3 green white June to well- Mum-like daisy flowers are good for cutting.<br />
FEVERFEW 60/30 cm yellow Sept. drained Foliage is aromatic. Formerly called<br />
matricaria.<br />
Clematis integrifolia 36/24 in. » 2 green indigo July- moist-well Sprawls does not vine.<br />
CLEMATIS SOLITARY 90/60 cm blue Aug. drained Dies to ground in winter.<br />
Coreopsis verticillata 36/12 in. 4 green yellow June to well- Bright daisy-like flowers are good for<br />
COREOPSIS-TICKSEED 90/30 cm gold Sept. drained cutting. Varieties with various color shades<br />
available. Moonbeam was the 1992<br />
Perennial of the Year.<br />
Delphinium grandiflorum 12/12 in. 3 green bluish- June to well- Dwarf bushy mounds.<br />
DELPHINIUM-BLUE ELF 30/30 cm purple Aug. drained Excellent for edging or massing.<br />
Delphinium x elatum 30/24 in. 3 green mix June to well- Colorful spikes of double flowers for cutting.<br />
DELPHINIUM-Magic Fountain 75/60 cm July drained Remove old flowers to induce repeat<br />
blooming.<br />
Dephinium elatum 6/3 ft. 2 green bluish- June to well- Tall colorful spikes of double flwers for<br />
DELPHINIUM-Pacific Giants 1.8/.9 m violet July drained cutting. Remove old flowers to induce<br />
repeat blooming. Requires staking. Good<br />
background to border.<br />
Dianthus gratianopolitanus 2/6 in. 3 green pink May to well- Dwarf rock garden plant.<br />
DIANTHUS-TINY RUBIES 5/15 cm June drained Grassy clumps of foliage.
Names<br />
PerenniALS<br />
SHADe & PArt SUn<br />
all perennials listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
Height/<br />
Spread Light<br />
Z<br />
o<br />
n e<br />
Leaf<br />
Color Flower<br />
Color Bloom Soil<br />
Time Moisture Features/Uses<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
Dianthus barbatus 24/12 in. » 2 green red, pink June to well- Classic cottage, self-seeding, biennial plant.<br />
SWEET WILLIAM 60/30 cm white Aug. drained Deadheading increases fragrant cut flowers.<br />
Dianthus deltoides 8/18 in. 2 green pink,red June to well- Low spreading mat forming ground cover.<br />
DIANTHUS-MAIDEN PINK 20/45 cm white Aug. drained Varieties include popular Flashing Light.<br />
Dianthus gratianopolitanus 12/12 in. 2 green pink June to well- Flowers are sweet scented & good for<br />
DIANTHUS-CHEDDAR PINK 30/30 cm white,red Aug. drained cutting. Popular for edging and rockeries.<br />
Dianthus plumarius 12/12 in. 3 blue/ pink May to well- Bluish grassy-like foliage forms a wide<br />
DIANTHUS-CLOVE PINK 30/30 cm green white June drained clump. Carnation type flower is strong<br />
mix clove scented.<br />
Diactamnus 36/24 in. 2 green white, June to well- Super plant for the sunny border.<br />
GAS PLANT 90/60 cm lavender July drained Spike-like flowers rise above the foliage.<br />
Digitalis purpurea 48/18 in. » 4 green purple May to moist & Large showy spikes of flowers for cutting.<br />
FOXGLOVE-COMMON 120/45 cm pink, mix July drained Biennial but self seeds.<br />
Digitalis mertonensis 48/18 in. » 4 green pink June to moist & Compact foliage. Large tubular flowers.<br />
FOXGLOVE-PINK 120/45 cm Aug. drained Good for cutting. True perennial habit.<br />
Digitalis grandiflora 36/18 in. » 2 green yellow June to moist & Wind proof spikes of tubular flowers.<br />
FOXGLOVE-YELLOW 90/45 cm Aug. drained True perennial habit. Good for cutting.<br />
Dodecatheon meadia 12/6 in. » 2 green pink May to moist Delicate flowers from a flat rosette of<br />
SHOOTING STAR 30/15 cm June soil leaves. Mass planting in shady border.<br />
Echinacea purpurea 48/24 in 3 green purple July to well- Long-lasting daisies droop from brown<br />
CONEFLOWER 120/60 cm white Sept. drained cone.<br />
Echinops ritro 48/24 in. 2 green bluish- June to well- Globular blooms for cut & dried flowers.<br />
GLOBE THISTLE 120/60 cm purple Sept. drained Tall thistle-like plant for the back of the<br />
border.<br />
Erigeron speciosus 30/24 in. 2 silver pink June to well- Excellent cut flower or for summer border.<br />
FLEABANE 75/60 cm blue Aug. drained Pink Jewel is the prettiest variety.<br />
Eryngium species 24/12 in. 2 green blue June to well- Prickly flowers are good for cutting.<br />
SEA HOLLY 60/30 cm Aug. drained Drought tolerant of hot dry sites.<br />
Eupatorium maculatum 7/3 ft. » 4 purple purple Aug. to moist Large plant with purple flower heads.<br />
EUPATORIUM-Joe Pye Weed 2/1 m. Sept. soil Attracts butterflies.<br />
Euphorbia polychroma 18/18 in. 3 green yellow May to well- Dome of leaves covered by colored bracts.<br />
SPURGE-CUSHION 45/45 cm June drained Drought-tolerant for hot, dry location.<br />
Filipendula purpurea 48/24 in. » 4 green white Aug. to moist Fragrant flower clusters have red stamens.<br />
MEADOWSWEET-Japan 120/60 cm Sept. soil Elegant accent, specimen or waterside<br />
plant.<br />
Filipendula rubra ‘Venusta’ 6/4 ft. » 3 green pink Aug. to moist Large flowers on this bold accent plant.<br />
MEADOWSWEET 1.8/1.2 m Sept. soil Tall plumed perennial for the back of the<br />
border.<br />
Fragaria frel ‘Pink Panda’ 6/12 in. » 2 green bright May to well- Excellent ground cover or in a hanging<br />
STRAWBERRY-Pink Panda 15/30 cm pink Sept. drained basket. Cross of Fragaria and Potentilla has<br />
edible fruit.<br />
Gaillardia x grandiflora 36/12 in. 2 green red eye June to well- Daisy-like flowers with contrasting center<br />
GAILLARDIA-Blanket Flower 90/30 cm gold tip Sept. drained eye. ‘Goblin’ & ‘Burgundy’ are two cultivars.<br />
Gentiana septemfida 8/24 in. » 2 green true July to moist One of the easier gentians to grow.<br />
GENTIAN-SEVEN-LOBED 20/60 cm blue Sept. soil Plants clump & are good for edging.<br />
Gentiana acaulis 4/12 in. » 2 green true May moist Low growing creeping mat is good for<br />
GENTIAN-STEMLESS 10/30 cm blue soil rockery. Light blue flowers in springtime.<br />
Geranium sanguineum 18/18 in. » 3 green white June to well- Low spreading mound of finely cut leaves.<br />
GERANIUM-Blood Cranesbill 45/45 cm pink, red Aug. drained Useful ground cover available in a few<br />
colors.<br />
Geranium dalmaticum 4/6 in. » 3 green pink May to well- Alpine rock garden plant.<br />
GERANIUM-DALMATIAN 10/15 cm July drained Dense mounding foliage turns red in fall.<br />
PerenniALS
PerenniALS<br />
PerenniALS<br />
SHADe & PArt SUn<br />
all perennials listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
Names<br />
Height/<br />
Spread Light<br />
Z<br />
o<br />
n e<br />
Leaf<br />
Color Flower<br />
Color Bloom Soil<br />
Time Moisture Features/Uses<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
Geranium macrorrhizum 18/18 in. » 2 green pink June to well- Fragrant leaves form dense ground cover.<br />
GERANIUM-INGWERSEN 45/45 cm July drained Heat tolerant. Good fall foliage color.<br />
Geranium x Johnson Blue 24/24 in. » 2 green blue- June to well- Popular geranium with large bluish flowers.<br />
GERANIUM-Johnson Blue 60/60 cm violet Aug. drained Good vigorous border plant type.<br />
Geranium endressii 24/24 in. » 3 green pink- June to well- Good vigorous ground cover.<br />
GERANIUM-Wargrave Pink 60/60 cm salmon Aug. drained Shiny evergreen leaves.<br />
Geum x ‘Borisii’ 12/12 in. » 3 green orange May to well- Rare, bright orange flowers good for cutting.<br />
GEUM-DWARF AVENS 30/30 cm June drained Compact plant for edging or rockery.<br />
Goniolimon tataricum 16/12 in. 2 green light July to well- Grown for cut or everlasting dried flowers.<br />
STATICE-GERMAN 40/30 cm pink Aug. drained Foliage forms basal rosette of leaves.<br />
Gypsophila paniculata 36/24 in. » 2 green white June to well- Bristol Ferry is a suggested variety.<br />
BABY’S BREATH 90/60 cm pink July drained Delicate flowers for fresh or dried bouquets.<br />
Gypsophila repens 6/24 in. » 2 green white June to well- Low creeping mat for edging or rock<br />
BABY’S BREATH - Creeping 15/60 cm pink July drained gardens. Misty clouds of blooms.<br />
Helenium autumnale 48/24 in. 3 green yellow July to well- Bright daisy-like flowers excellent for cutting<br />
HELENIUM-SNEEZEWEED 120/60 cm red Aug. drained Moisture loving plant for the summer border.<br />
Heliopsis helianthoides 48/24 in. 2 green yellow July to well- Large, long blooming, daisy-like flowers.<br />
HELIOPSIS-False Sunflower 120/60 cm Sept. drained Strong sturdy stems are good for cutting.<br />
Helianthemum nummularium 12/24 in. 4 gray- various June to well- Available in single or double flowering<br />
ROCK or SUN ROSE 30/60 cm green Sept. drained forms. Good for edging and rockery. Mulch<br />
in winter.<br />
Hesperis matronalis 36/12 in. » 2 green purple June to well- Fragrant flowers resemble Summer Phlox.<br />
SWEET ROCKET 90/30 cm July drained Old-fashioned garden plant for the border.<br />
Hemerocallis x hybrida 36/24 in. » 2 green various July to well- Plants form sturdy clumps of grassy foliage.<br />
DAYLILY 90/60 cm Aug. drained Lily shaped flowers bloom in long<br />
succession.<br />
Hemerocalis var. 16/16 in. » 2 green canary June- well- Prolific repeat bloomer.<br />
DAYLILLY-HAPPY RETURNS 40/40 cm yellow Sept. drained Flowers have slight fragrance<br />
Hemerocallis ‘Stella D’Oro’ 18/18 in. » 2 green yellow June to well- Popular compact dwarf.<br />
DAYLILY-STELLA D’ORO 45/45 cm Sept. drained Longer blooming period.<br />
Heuchera hybrid 24/18 in. » 3 dark white June moist-well Leaves large and ruffled.<br />
CORAL BELLS-Chocolate ruffles 60/45 cm brown July drained Burgundy underneath<br />
Heuchera hybrid 18/12 in. » 2 green scarlet June moist-well Bred in Morden Manitoba.<br />
CORAL BELLS-Northern Fire 45/30 cm mottled red July drained Flowers high over low foliage.<br />
Heuchera hybrid 18/18 in. » 3 deep white June moist-well Leaves fade to bronze in Summer.<br />
CORAL BELLS-Palace Purple 45/45 cm purple July drained Plants vary from seed.<br />
Heuchera hybrid 18/12 in. » 3 white/ cerise June moist-well Very bright, ruffled leaves<br />
CORAL BELLS-SNOW STORM 45/30 cm green pink July drained<br />
Iberis sempervirens 10/36 in. » 3 green white May to well- Evergreen foliage forms compact ground<br />
IBERIS-CANDY TUFT 25/90 cm June drained cover. Good for rock gardens or front of<br />
border.<br />
Iris setosa 8/12 in. 2 green lavender May to well- Compact clump with narrow leaves.<br />
IRIS-ARCTIC 20/30 cm June drained Hardy species for edging border.<br />
Iris pumila 8/12 in. 2 green purple May to well- Old-fashioned favorite flower in showy<br />
IRIS-DWARF BEARDED 20/30 cm pink June drained display. Available in separate colors &<br />
yellow named varieties. Also varieties available as<br />
white bare root rhizome in the bulb department in<br />
August.<br />
Iris germanica 30/18 in. 3 green purple May to well- Old-fashioned favorite flower in showy<br />
IRIS-GERMAN BEARDED 75/45 cm pink June drained display. Available in separate colors &<br />
yellow named varieties. Also varieties available as<br />
bronze bare root rhizome in the bulb department in<br />
August.
Names<br />
PerenniALS<br />
SHADe & PArt SUn<br />
all perennials listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
Height/<br />
Spread Light<br />
Z<br />
o<br />
n e<br />
Leaf<br />
Color Flower<br />
Color Bloom Soil<br />
Time Moisture Features/Uses<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
Iris ensata 48/18 in. » 4 green various June to moist Flowers appear on top of tall grassy clumps.<br />
IRIS-JAPANESE 120/45 cm July soil Suitable waterside plant.<br />
Iris sibirica 36/24 in. 2 green purple May to well- Clumps of grassy leaves look good all<br />
IRIS-SIBERIAN 90/60 cm white June drained summer. Delicate looking flowers for cutting.<br />
Iris pallida 24/12 in. 3 gold- lavender June to well- Grown for attractive striped foliage.<br />
IRIS-SWEET 60/30 cm green July drained Edging border plant.<br />
Iris pseudacorus 48/24 in. 2 green yellow May to moist Attractive at the waterside.<br />
IRIS-YELLOW FLAG 120/60 cm June soil Similar to blue flag Iris.<br />
Lamium maculatum 12/12 in. 2 green pink May to well- Attractive ground cover with variegated<br />
LAMIUM-DEAD NETTLE 30/30 cm white white Sept. drained foliage.<br />
silver<br />
Lathyrus latifolius 8/1 ft. 3 green pink- June to well- Native wildflower used as dried everlasting.<br />
PEA-SWEET-Perennial 240/30 cm purple Sept. drained Good fresh cut flower.<br />
Lavandula angustifolia 16/24 in. 4 gray pink June to well- Fragrant flower spikes & foliage.<br />
LAVENDER-MUNSTEAD 40/60 cm purple Aug. drained Suitable for the herb garden.<br />
Leontopodium alpinum 6/10 in. 3 gray white June to well- Well known rockery plant from Swiss alps.<br />
EDELWEISS 15/25 cm July drained Woolly flowers used for dried arrangements.<br />
Leucanthemum X superbum 24/18 in. » 3 green white June to well- Several cultivars available; not The Ox-eye<br />
SHASTA DAISY-’Alaska’ 60/45 cm Sept. drained Daisy. White Daisies with yellow centers<br />
good to cut.<br />
Lewisia cotyledon 12/6 in. » 3 green pink May to well- Unique alpine rockery plant requires<br />
LEWISIA 30/15 cm July drained drainage. Evergreen rosette of fleshy<br />
foliage.<br />
Liatrus spicata 36/18 in. 2 green white July to well- Popular as cut flower for tall long lasting<br />
LIATRUS-BLAZING STAR 90/45 cm purple Sept. drained spikes! Beautiful border plant.<br />
Lilium x hybrida 48/12 in. » 2 green wide June to well - Hardier & easier to grow than Oriental or<br />
LILY-ASIATIC 120/30 cm range July drained Tiger. Excellent long lasting cut flower.<br />
Lilium x hybrids 72/18 in. » 4 green pink, red Aug. to well- Late blooming, fragrant, star-shaped<br />
LILY-ORIENTAL 200/45 cm white Sept. drained flowers. Mulching recommended for winter<br />
protection.<br />
Lilium lancifolium 60/18 in. » 2 green orange June to well- Old-fashioned favorite perennial.<br />
LILY-TIGER 150/45 cm July drained Superb strong stemmed cut flower.<br />
Limonium latifolium 30/24 in. 2 green lavender June to well- Grown for cut or everlasting dried flowers.<br />
STATICE-Sea Lavender 75/60 cm Aug. drained Drought-tolerant perennial border plant.<br />
Linum perenne 18/12 in. » 2 green blue May to well- Linear leaves with continual blooms.<br />
FLAX-PERENNIAL 45/30 cm white Aug. drained Sapphire Blue or Diamond White.<br />
Lupinus x ‘Russell Hybrid’ 36/24 in. » 3 green purple June to well- Tall spikes of flowers are good for cutting.<br />
Lupinus x ‘Gallery Series’ 90/60 cm pink Aug. drained Old-fashioned favorite perennial. Dwarf<br />
LUPINE yellow series available in mix of various colors.<br />
Lysimachia clethroides 36/36 in. » 2 green white July to moist Unique flower spikes bend like a<br />
LOOSESTRIFE-Gooseneck 90/90 cm Aug. soil gooseneck. Foliage has good fall color.<br />
Lychnis species 15/12 in. 3 gray- pink May to well- Self-seeding alpine rockery plants. All<br />
CAMPION-Arctic, Moss, Rose 38/30 cm green Sept. drained arctic, moss & rose species need drainage.<br />
Lychnis chalcedonica 48/12 in. 2 green red June to well- Old fashioned, long-lived, hardy tall plant.<br />
MALTESE CROSS 120/30 cm Aug. drained Red flower clusters for cutting or in border.<br />
Lysimachia punctata 36/24 in. » 2 green yellow June to well- Upright bushy clumps form a large patch.<br />
LOOSESTRIFE-YELLOW 90/60 cm Aug. drained Star shaped flowers appear in leafy spikes.<br />
Macleaya cordata 6/2 ft. » 2 blue- cream July to moist Colorful lobed leaves with cream flower<br />
POPPY-PLUME 200/60 cm green Aug. soil plumes. Giant unique background plant.<br />
Malva moschata 36/18 in. » 3 green pink July to well- Satiny pink flowers like little Hollyhock.<br />
MALLOW-MUSK 90/45 cm Sept. drained Musky scented leaves for back of border.<br />
Monarda didyma 36/18 in. 3 green purple June to moist Tall plants with aromatic mint-like foliage.<br />
BEEBALM-BERGAMOT 90/45 cm pink, red July soil Thistle-flowers attract bees and butterflies.<br />
white Plants are good in border or for cutting.<br />
PerenniALS
PerenniALS<br />
6<br />
PerenniALS<br />
SHADe & PArt SUn<br />
all perennials listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
Names<br />
Height/<br />
Spread Light<br />
Z<br />
o<br />
n e<br />
Leaf<br />
Color Flower<br />
Color Bloom Soil<br />
Time Moisture Features/Uses<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
Myosotis sylvatica 8/8 in. 3 green true blue May to moist Showy spring display by self seeding<br />
FORGET-ME-NOT-<strong>Garden</strong> 20/20 cm pink June soil biennial. Used as under-planting with spring<br />
bulbs.<br />
Oenothera missourensis 12/12 in. 3 green yellow June to well- Papery flowers open during daytime.<br />
Oenothera fruticosa 30/30 cm Aug. drained Drought tolerant of hot dry areas.<br />
SUNDROPS/EVENING PRIMROSE Fruticosa has red stems and buds.<br />
Paeonia hybrids 36/36 in. 2 green pink June well- Old-fashioned favorite with double flowers.<br />
PEONY-DOUBLE 90/90 cm red drained Use rings or hoops to support large flowers.<br />
white Longest lived & largest flowering perennial!<br />
Paeonia tenuifolia ‘Pena 18/12 in. 2 green red June well- Rare plant with finely cut leaves.<br />
PEONY-FERNLEAF’ 45/30 cm drained Delicate double flowers.<br />
Papaver alpinum 8/6 in. 3 green mixed May to well- Dainty poppies with lacy leaves for the<br />
POPPY-ALPINE 20/15 cm Aug. drained rockery. Yellow, orange, pink & white<br />
flowers shades.<br />
Meconopsis sp. 48/24 in. » 5 green blue July moist,well- Needs winter protection.<br />
POPPY-BLUE HIMALAYAN 120/60 cm drained,acid Prefers shelter from wind.<br />
Papaver nudicaule 18/12 in. 2 green mixed May to well- Papery yellow, orange, pink & white flowers!<br />
POPPY-ICELAND 45/30 cm Sept. drained Short lived plants but they reseed readily.<br />
Papaver orientale 36/24 in. 2 green pink, red May to well- Huge flowers and hairy foliage are showy.<br />
POPPY-ORIENTAL 90/60 cm orange July drained Excellent border perennial or cut flower!<br />
Penstemon hybrids 36/24 in. 4 green various May to well- Showy tubular flower spikes like snapdragon<br />
PENSTEMON-Beard-tongue 90/60 cm Aug. drained Taller varieties make good cut flowers.<br />
Persicaria affine 8/24 in. » 3 green red- June to well- Low mat of leathery leaves turn red in fall.<br />
FLEECEFLOWER-DWARF 20/60 cm pink Aug. drained Short spikes of flowers fade to pink.<br />
Physostegia virginiana 48/24 in. » 2 green pink July to moist Tubular flower spikes make great cut<br />
OBEDIENT PLANT 120/60 cm white Sept. soil flowers. Useful background plant.<br />
Platycodon grandiflorus 30/24 in. » 3 green purple June to well- Inflated buds pop into balloon-like flowers!<br />
BALLOON FLOWER 75/60 cm white Aug. drained Similar to Campanula (Bellflower)<br />
Phlox douglasii 5/18 in 2 green pink, red May well- Exotic woody shrub with spectacular<br />
Phlox subulata 12/45 cm white drained flowers. Excellent edging & rockery plant.<br />
PHLOX-Creeping or Moss lavender Crackerjack is a very popular variety.<br />
Phlox maculata 36/24 in. » 3 green pink June to moist & Evergreen ground cover with spring flowers.<br />
PHLOX-MEADOW 90/60 cm white Aug. drained Flowers are fragrant and good for cutting.<br />
Phlox paniculata 48/30 in. 3 green various July to moist & Showy clusters of spectacular flowers.<br />
PHLOX-Tall or <strong>Garden</strong> 120/75 cm Sept. drained Wide range of colors for the border.<br />
Excellent fragrant cut flowers.<br />
Potentilla neum ‘Nana’ 4/12 in. 3 green yellow May to well- Low non-spreading alpine rockery plant.<br />
POTENTILLA-ALPINE 10/30 cm June drained Buttercup flowers on compact mound.<br />
Potentilla nepalensis 12/12 in. 2 green red- June to well- Melon red flowers with darker pink centre.<br />
POTENTILLA-Miss Willmott 30/30 cm pink Sept. drained Shear plants back after first flush of flowers.<br />
Perovskia atriplicifolia 4/2 ft. 4 gray- blue- July to well- Long bloomers with Black-eyed Susan<br />
RUSSIAN SAGE 120/60 cm green violet Sept. drained flowers. Perennial Plant of the Year in 1995.<br />
Pulsatilla vulgaris 12/12 in. 2 green purple April well- Early bloomer with a prairie crocus type<br />
ANEMONE-Pasque Flower 30/30 cm red to May drained bloom.<br />
Rheum X hybridum 3/3 ft. » 2 green white May to well- Hardy perennial vegetable with large leaves.<br />
RHUBARB 1/1 m. Sept. drained Sour edible stalks for pies or wine.<br />
Rudbeckia fulgida goldsturm 36/18 in. 3 green yellow/ July to well- Long blooming flowers; Hirta hybrids<br />
BLACK-EYED SUSAN 90/45 cm orange Sept. drained self-seed.<br />
Rudbeckia nitida 6/3 ft. 2 green yellow July to well- Enormous plant suitable for back of border.<br />
RUDBECKIA-Gloriosa Daisy 200/90 cm Sept. drained Herbstonne has drooping daisies.<br />
Sagina subulata 2/12 in. » 4 green white May to moist & Creeping moss-like ground cover forms<br />
Sagina subulata ‘Aurea’ 5/30 cm gold June well- carpet. Good between paving stones.<br />
MOSS-IRISH & SCOTCH drained Tiny white, star-like flowers. Mulch in winter.
Names<br />
PerenniALS<br />
SHADe & PArt SUn<br />
all perennials listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
Height/<br />
Spread Light<br />
Z<br />
o<br />
n e<br />
Leaf<br />
Color Flower<br />
Color Bloom Soil<br />
Time Moisture Features/Uses<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
Salvia nemerosa 24/24 in. 3 gray- pink June to well- Scented spikes of flowers.<br />
SALVIA-SAGE 60/60 cm green violet Aug. drained Drought tolerant.<br />
Salvia nemerosa ‘May Night’ 24/24 in. 3 gray- indigo- May to well- Perennial Plant of the Year 1997.<br />
SALVIA-MAY NIGHT 60/60 cm green violet July drained Aromatic leaves and spike-like flowers.<br />
Saponaria ocymoides 8/18 in. 2 green pink May to well- Most vigorous trailing rockery or edging<br />
SOAPWORT-ROCK 20/45 cm June drained plant. Useful for cascading over rocks and<br />
slopes.<br />
Saxifraga arendsii 8/12 in. » 4 green red, pink May to moist & Cup shaped flowers on short stems.<br />
SAXIFRAGE-MOSSY 20/30 cm white June drained Excellent evergreen rock garden plant.<br />
Saxifraga urbium 6/12 in. » 4 green light May to moist & Low growing alpine rockery plant. Short<br />
SAXIFRAGE-London Pride 15/30 cm pink June drained stems of small light pink flowers in spring.<br />
Scabiosa caucasia 30/18 in. 2 green white June to well- Ideal for edging along a shady border.<br />
PINCUSHION FLOWER-DWARF 75/45 cm Aug. drained Strong stems for long lasting cut flowers.<br />
Scabiosa columbaria 18/12 in. 3 green lavender June to well- Large globe shaped continuous flowers.<br />
PINCUSHION FLOWER 45/30 cm blue Aug. drained Perennial of the Year 2000.<br />
Sedum x species 6/18 in. 3 green various June to well- Fleshy succulent plants with various colors.<br />
SEDUM-Dwarf Stonecrop 15/45 cm purple yellow Aug. drained Spreading, drought tolerant ground covers.<br />
Sedum spectabile 24/24 in. 3 green pink Aug. to well- Succulent plants with upright growth habit.<br />
SEDUM-Tall Stonecrop 60/60 cm Sept. drained Autumn Joy and Brilliant provide pink fall<br />
color.<br />
Sedum spurium 6/18 in. 3 green various June to well- Succulent evergreen ground cover.<br />
SEDUM-Dragon’s Blood 15/45 cm red Aug. drained Various colored flowers and foliage.<br />
Sempervivum x Hybrids 6/12 in. » 2 green pink June to well- Succulents with evergreen rosettes of<br />
HENS AND CHICKS 15/30 cm purple red Aug. drained leaves. Useful for edging & rock gardens.<br />
gray Star shaped flowers rise up on stalks.<br />
Sidalcea malviflora x cultorum 36/18 in. » 4 green pink June to well- Elegant long spikes of satiny flowers for<br />
MALLOW-Prairie/Checker 90/45 cm Aug. drained cutting. Party Girl is a mixture of various<br />
pink shades.<br />
Solidago species 36/12 in. » 2 green gold- Aug. well- Cultivated native wild flower.<br />
GOLDENROD 90/30 cm yellow drained <strong>Golden</strong>-yellow flower plumes.<br />
Stachys byzantina 18/12 in. » 3 silver pink June well- Spreading mat of silver woolly leaves.<br />
LAMB’S EAR 45/30 cm drained Drought tolerant edging plant or ground<br />
cover.<br />
Tanacetum coccineum 30/18 in. 2 green rose- June to well- Old-fashioned cut flower with ferny foliage.<br />
PAINTED DAISY/Pyrethrum 75/45 cm pink July drained Deadhead regularly to increase flowering.<br />
Thalictrum aquilegifolium 36/24 in. » 3 green mauve May to moist Cut leaves closely resemble Columbine.<br />
MEADOW RUE 90/60 cm white June soil Fluffy flower sprays are used for cutting.<br />
Thalictrum delavayi 60/24 in. » 3 green purple June to moist Airy sprays of double flowers & lacy foliage.<br />
MEADOW RUE-Double 150/60 cm Aug. soil Tall background plant for cutting.<br />
Thymus x citriodorus 6/12 in. 3 gold red June to well- Aromatic, excellent edging or rockery plants<br />
Thymus praecox 15/30 cm silver lavender July drained Lemon thyme has lemon scented leaves.<br />
Thymus pseudolanuginosus green white Creeping thyme is a good ground cover.<br />
Thymus serpyllum gray pink Woolly thyme forms a vigorous mat.<br />
THYMUS-THYME green purple Mother-of-thyme is a much loved carpeter.<br />
Tradescantia X andersoniana 24/24 in. » 3 green various June to moist Grassy foliage with showy triangular<br />
SPIDERWORT 60/60 cm Aug. soil flowers.Plant in diagonal drifts in the border.<br />
Verbascum phoeniceum 48/12 in. 4 silver mixed June to well- Unique daisy flowers with red on the back.<br />
MULLEIN-PURPLE 120/30 cm Aug. drained Suitable for grouping in the border.<br />
Veronica allioni 6/12 in. » 2 green blue- June to well- Attractive compact flower spikes.<br />
VERONICA-Alpine 15/30 cm violet Aug. drained Excellent edging or alpine rockery plant.<br />
Veronica repens 2/12 in. » 2 gray- white May to well- Low creeping carpet with spring flowers.<br />
VERONICA-CREEPING 5/30 cm green June drained Good ground cover or rock garden plant.<br />
Veronica spicata 24/12 in. 2 green blue June to well- Border plant with long-lasting flower spikes.<br />
VERONICA-Spike Speedwell 60/30 cm pink Aug. drained Red Fox is good for cut flowers.<br />
PerenniALS
PerenniALS<br />
PerenniALS SHADe & PArt SUn<br />
Names<br />
Height/<br />
Spread Light<br />
Z<br />
o<br />
n e<br />
Leaf<br />
Color Flower<br />
Color Bloom Soil<br />
Time Moisture Features/Uses<br />
Veronica spicata incana 18/18 in. 2 silver blue- June to well- Silver woolly foliage with flower spikes.<br />
VERONICA-WOOLLY 45/45 cm violet July drained Excellent for edging or mass planting in<br />
border.<br />
Veronica ‘Sunny Border Blue’ 24/12 in. 3 green blue June to well- 1993 Perennial Plant of the Year.<br />
VERONICA-Sun. Border Blue 60/30 cm Sept. drained Long blooming spikes for cut flowers.<br />
Yucca glauca 24/18 in. 3 green white July well- Succulent, evergreen, narrow, stiff leaves.<br />
YUCCA 60/45 cm drained Native. Extremely drought tolerant in hot,<br />
dry, sun area.<br />
PerenniALS GrASSeS<br />
Names<br />
Height/<br />
Spread Light<br />
Z<br />
o<br />
n e<br />
Leaf<br />
Color Flower<br />
Color Bloom Soil<br />
Time Moisture Features/Uses<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
Arrhenatherum bulbosum 18/12 in. » 3 cream tan June well- Clumps of cream & green striped leaves.<br />
‘Variegatus’ 45/30 cm green drained Combines well with bulbs in spring.<br />
GRASS-BULBOUS OAT Variegated form is a colorful variety.<br />
Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’ 42/24 in. » 3 white gold June to well- Foliage is boldly striped in white and green.<br />
GRASS - KARL FOERSTER 100/60 cm green Sept. drained Perennial Plant of the Year 2001<br />
Festuca glauca 12/12 in. » 3 blue tan May to well- Clump forming with fine textured leaves.<br />
GRASS-BLUE FESCUE 30/30 cm June drained Elijah Blue is the best & brightest selection.<br />
Helictotrichon sempervirens 36/24 in. 3 blue tan May to well- Round clump of intense blue leaves.<br />
GRASS-BLUE OAT 90/60 cm July drained Evergreen cool-season grass.<br />
Panicum virgatum 36/24 in. 3 green white July to well- Airy flowers turn into red seed heads.<br />
GRASS-RED SWITCH 90/60 cm Aug. drained Outstanding orange fall foliage color.<br />
Phalaris arundinacea 36/24 in. 2 white tan June to moist & Spreading clumps striped with various<br />
GRASS-RIBBON 90/60 cm green July drained colors. Useful, hardy ground cover.
PerenniALS CLemAtiS PHotoS<br />
Warsaw Nike Edvard Andre<br />
Alpine Odorata Nelly Moser<br />
Rouge Cardinal<br />
Jackmanii<br />
Tangutica Ville de Lyon<br />
Romantika<br />
Zoin<br />
PerenniALS
PerenniALS<br />
0<br />
PerenniALS VineS<br />
Names Height Spread Light Zone Pruning Flower Features<br />
Group Color<br />
Celastrus scandens 7 ft. 3 ft. » 4 n/a White Produces red seed capsules in fall if both male<br />
AMERICAN BITTERSWEET 2 m. 1 m. (Hercules)and female(Diana) plants are planted.<br />
Clematis alpina 'Odorata' 7ft 3ft » 3 A Blue Mid to light blue, scented flowers<br />
CLEMATIS - Odorata 2m 1m Flowers early in year; attractive seed heads<br />
Clematis Inspiration 'Zoin' 7 ft 3ft » 3 C Dark Blue Dark blue variety of 'Inspiration'<br />
CLEMATIS - Zoin 2m 1m Blooms later in season; good for cut flowers<br />
Clematis integrifolia 'Blueboy' 7 ft. 3 ft. » 3 C Blue Steel blue, nodding flowers in summer.<br />
CLEMATIS - Blueboy 2 m. 1 m. Clematis cross bred in Morden, Manitoba.<br />
Clematis 'Jackmanii' 10 ft. 3 ft. » 3 C Purple Purple flowers in summer on current, new wood.<br />
CLEMATIS - Jackman 3 m. 1 m. Popular cultivar. Prune to ground level in spring.<br />
Clematis jackmanii 'Romantika' 9 ft 3ft » 3 C Dark Blue New variety from the Soviet Union<br />
CLEMATIS - Romatika 3m 1m Light foliage compliments dark blooms<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
Clematis macropetala 'Bluebird' 10 ft. 3 ft. » 3 A Blue Lavender blue flowers in May on one yr. old wood.<br />
CLEMATIS - Bluebird 3 m. 1 m. Big petal Clematis bred for Canadian Prairies.<br />
Clematis 'Rouge Cardinal' 10 ft. 3 ft. » 3 C Red Cardinal crimson flowers in summer on new<br />
CLEMATIS - Rouge Cardinal 3 m. 1 m. wood.<br />
Clematis tangutica 10 ft. 3 ft. » 2 C <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Golden</strong> yellow, nodding flowers on new wood.<br />
CLEMATIS - <strong>Golden</strong> 3 m. 1 m. Yellow Tough, vigorous plant with fluffy seed heads.<br />
Clematis 'Ville de Lyon' 10 ft. 3 ft. » 3 C Red Carmine red flowers in summer on current wood.<br />
CLEMATIS - Ville de Lyon 3 m. 1 m.<br />
Clematis viticella 10 ft. 3 ft. » 3 C Purple Deep purple flowers in summer on new wood.<br />
CLEMATIS - Etoile Violette 3 m. 1 m.<br />
Humulus lupulus 7 ft. 7 ft. » 2 n/a Green Fast growing, hardy vine grown for making beer.<br />
HOPS 2 m. 2 m. Useful screening plant that requires support.<br />
Lonicera x ‘Dropmore Scarlet’ 10 ft. 3 ft. » 2 n/a Red Scarlet tubular flowers attract hummingbirds.<br />
HONEYSUCKLE- 3 m. 1 m. Best summer flowering, woody vine for Alberta.<br />
Dropmore Scarlet Rresistant to Honeysuckle aphid.<br />
Lonicera x brownii 'Mandarin' 20 ft. 7 ft. » 2 n/a Orange Orange tubular flowers attract hummingbirds.<br />
HONEYSUCKLE - Mandarin 6 m. 2 m. Resistant to honeysuckle aphids.<br />
Parthenocissus ‘Englemanii’ 20 ft. 3 ft. » 3 n/a White Self-clinging variety that does not need support.<br />
ENGLEMAN IVY 6 m. 1 m. Attractive green leaves turn to brilliant red in fall.<br />
Parthenocissus quinquefolia 20 ft. 3 ft. » 2 n/a White Requires trellis, fence or other support structure.<br />
VIRGINIA CREEPER 6 m. 1 m. Attractive green leaves turn to brilliant red in fall.<br />
Vitis x ‘Canadice’ 7 ft. 3 ft. » 4 n/a White Early red, seedless berries for juice, jelly or wine.<br />
GRAPE - Canadice 2 m. 1 m. Self pollinating but 2 varieties produce more fruit.<br />
Vitis x ‘Concord’ 7 ft. 3 ft. » 4 n/a White Blue berries used primarily for fresh grape juice.<br />
GRAPE - Concord 2 m. 1 m. Most popular widely grown grape in north america.<br />
Vitis x ‘Interlaken’ 7 ft. 3 ft. » 4 n/a White <strong>Golden</strong> green, early ripening, seedless berries.<br />
GRAPE - Interlaken 2 m. 1 m. Cross of Thompson Seedless for white wine.<br />
Vitis x ‘Steuben’ 7 ft. 3 ft. » 4 n/a White Purplish-blue berries used for juice or jelly.<br />
GRAPE - Steuben 2 m. 1 m. Good for table grape or making red wine.<br />
Vitis x 'Valiant' 7 ft. 3 ft. » 3 n/a White Early blue berries on a vigorous annual producer.<br />
GRAPE - Valiant 2 m. 1 m. Hardier grape for the Prairies; used for jelly.<br />
Group A<br />
Flowers in spring on woody stems produced the previous season. Prune out weak or dead stems just after blooming is<br />
finished, usually in June. Choose hardy cultivars of Clematis alpina & Clematis macropetala.<br />
Group B<br />
Clematis in the B1 pruning group are generally not hardy in zone 3. For group B2, most blooming usually occurs on<br />
new growth. Use pruning method for Group C.<br />
Group C<br />
Blooms on current season’s growth. Many hardy varieties are available. Prune back in spring to about 1 ft. (30cm).<br />
Leave 2 strong sets of buds per stem. This produces more flowers along the full length of the plant. Prune out weak or<br />
dead stems when you see them.
PerenniALS PLAntinG A CLemAtiS<br />
PerenniALS 1
HoUSePLAntS yoUr qUeStionS<br />
Q: Which houseplants should I choose for a hot, sunny<br />
area in my house?<br />
A: Direct sunlight can cause damage to many house<br />
plants. Choose thick-leaved plants such as jade plants,<br />
aloe vera, and a wide variety of cacti all of which tolerate<br />
sun.<br />
Q: Which houseplants should I choose for an area<br />
with low light?<br />
A: Low light is referred as an area that receives little or no<br />
sunlight, such as north facing windows. Many plants such<br />
as peace lily and chinese evergreen will do well.<br />
Q: How do I get my hibiscus to re-flower?<br />
A: From spring to fall provide direct sunlight and feed with<br />
a fertilizer such as 15-30-15.<br />
Q: When and how should I repot my houseplants?<br />
A: Spring is the best time to repot as plants are starting<br />
to grow. Choose a container up to 1 in. (5 cm) in diameter<br />
larger (with drainage holes). Use a good all purpose<br />
potting soil.<br />
Q: Small black flies appear to be around my plants.<br />
What are they? How should I treat them?<br />
A: The fungus gnat larvae begins its life in the top layer of<br />
soil, feeding on dead organic matter, and then develop into<br />
a small black fly. Gnats prefer moist conditions, so keeping<br />
soil on the dry side is a good preventive messure. If this<br />
does not work apply predatory mites (Hypoapsis Mites<br />
- more info in the Pests and Problems section) to your<br />
plants. Be sure to follow the instructions on the label.<br />
Q: What fertilizer should I use for my plants?<br />
A: An all-purpose fertilizer such as 20-20-20 or 15-30-<br />
15 is appropriate for all indoor plants. The best time to<br />
fertilize is during the active growing season which is spring<br />
through fall.<br />
Q: Which plants “clean the air”?<br />
A: Not only do plants create atmosphere in our homes,<br />
they also help purify the air. Some plants that are proven to<br />
be effective are: spider plant, pot mum, peace lily, dragon<br />
tree and gerbera daisy.<br />
Q: Can I take cuttings from my plants?<br />
A: There are several ways to start new plants from your<br />
existing ones. Taking cuttings, root division and air layering<br />
can all be tried depending on the type of plant.<br />
Q: How often should I water my plants? What are the<br />
best ways to water my plants?<br />
A: Many factors influence the water needs of plants,<br />
including light, temperature, size of pot and type of<br />
plant. Make sure to know your plants’ needs and water<br />
thoroughly then allow the soil to become as dry as that<br />
type of plant can tolerate.<br />
Q: What are the common pests I should watch for on<br />
my plants?<br />
A: Some common indoor pests include spider mite, aphids,<br />
scale and whitefly which are generally located on leaves<br />
and stems. A thorough inspection when watering your<br />
plants will keep problems to a minimum.<br />
Q: Which common tropicals are poisonous?<br />
A: The main poisonous houseplants are anthurium,<br />
cyclamen tubers, dieffenbachia, english ivy, hydrangea,<br />
mistletoe, and oleander among others. For further<br />
information check the Canadian poisonous plants<br />
information system website at:<br />
(http://sis.Agr.Gc.Ca/pls/pp/poison?P_x=px)<br />
Or call the 24 hour Calgary emergency poison control<br />
hotline at 670-1414.<br />
HoUSePLAntS
HoUSePLAntS<br />
HoUSePLAntS LiGHt<br />
Lighting is a crucial consideration in the choice of plant<br />
material for either indoor or outdoor locations. Adequate<br />
light is required for photosynthesis. Flowering plants<br />
that need a high light level to flower such as outdoor<br />
roses or peonies; or indoor hibiscus or oleander, won't<br />
flower in low light conditions. Plants that prefer partial<br />
shade such as bleeding heart, cedar, and cranberry will<br />
not perform as well in full sunlight.<br />
Aspects of Light:<br />
1. Intensity - brightness or level of light<br />
2. Duration - day length or photoperiod<br />
3. Quality - color of light<br />
Light Intensity:<br />
Light intensity, the brightness or light level, is accurately<br />
measured with a light meter. The units of measurement<br />
are either foot-candles (British system) or lux (metric<br />
system). Light intensity is the limiting factor in growing<br />
plants indoors. Plants with variegated or colored leaves<br />
generally need more light because photosynthesis does<br />
not occur in these leaf surface areas. Artificial light may<br />
provide the necessary additional light for these plants.<br />
Light Duration:<br />
Light duration, the length of daylight or photoperiod,<br />
affects the flowering capability of certain plants. There<br />
are three types of plants according to their flowering<br />
response to day length: Short Day, Long Day and Indeterminate.<br />
Short Day Plants:<br />
These indoor plants require less than twelve hours of<br />
light per day in order to initiate flower buds. If inadvertently<br />
given more light the flower buds will not develop.<br />
They all flower in the winter months around Christmas<br />
time.<br />
Christmas Cactus<br />
Chrysanthemum<br />
Kalanchoe<br />
Poinsettia<br />
Light Quality:<br />
Light quality refers to the color of light. White light,<br />
which is actually a combination of all of the colors, is<br />
best for plants. Red light is important for photosynthesis<br />
and photoperiodism. Plants absorb red light and reflect<br />
green light which is why most plants have a green leaf<br />
color.<br />
Orientation Toward Sunlight:<br />
Orientation toward south or west sunlight either inside<br />
or outdoors provides high light or full sunlight conditions.<br />
Conversely, plants situated in east or north<br />
windows or on the east or north side of a house receive<br />
lower levels of sunlight. The angle of sunlight during different<br />
seasons of the year is also a consideration for the<br />
light requirement of plants.<br />
High Light Houseplants:<br />
These house plants require high light levels. They prefer<br />
the bright direct sunlight of south or west windows.<br />
Aloe, Agave, etc. - succulents<br />
Cereus, Euphorbia, etc. - cacti<br />
Citrus - calamondin orange, etc.<br />
Codiaeum - croton<br />
Crassula - jade plant<br />
Hibiscus - rose of China<br />
Hoya - wax plant<br />
Kalanchoe - flaming Katy<br />
Nerium - oleander<br />
Yucca - spineless yucca<br />
Low Light Houseplants:<br />
Certain house plants, usually ones with larger leaves to<br />
trap more light, tolerate lower light levels than others.<br />
They may be situated in a north or east window and<br />
include:<br />
Aglaonema - Chinese evergreen<br />
Aspidistra - cast iron plant<br />
Homalomena - emerald gem<br />
Monstera - split-leaf philodendron<br />
Philodendron - heart- leaf, selloum or Xanadu<br />
Sansevieria - snake plant<br />
Spathiphyllum - peace lily<br />
Houseplants for Children:<br />
These indoor house plants offer unique or interesting<br />
features or characteristics to children:<br />
Chlorophytum - spider plant - has hanging plantlets<br />
Kalanchoe tomentosa - panda plant - has fuzzy leaves
HoUSePLAntS StAnDinG<br />
all houseplants listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
NAMES LIGHT WATER FLOWERS/FOLIAGE FEATURES/CULTURE<br />
AIR PLANT Bright filtered sunlight Mist frequently to Colored, long lived Plant absorbs moisture from air!<br />
Tillandsia species increase humidity. flowers. Rosette of Epiphytic bromeliad in wild grows on<br />
narrow leaves. trees.<br />
ALOE-MEDICINE Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Narrow fleshy, Medicinally used to treat burns.<br />
Aloe vera thoroughly before watering. succulent leaves. Useful plant to have in your home.<br />
ARALIA-BALFOUR Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Variegated round leaves. Foliage plant.<br />
Polyscias balfouriana slightly before watering. Extra humidity is beneficial.<br />
ARALIA-FALSE Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Compound leaves with Delicate elegant slender foliage.<br />
Dizygotheca elegantissima slightly before watering. dark slender leaflets.<br />
Unique leaf shape & color.<br />
ARALIA-JAPANESE Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil moist in summer. Compound glossy Prefers cool well ventilated area in<br />
Fatsia japonica Reduce watering in winter. lobed leaflets. winter. Keep leaves free of dust.<br />
ARALIA-MING Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Named after Ming dynasty in China.<br />
Polyscias fruticosa elegans slightly before watering. Delicate elegant foliage Extra humidity is beneficial.<br />
ARALIA-PARSLEY Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Delicate, dark Shrub with aromatic, lacy leaves.<br />
Polyscias fruticosa 'Parsley' slightly before watering. green leaves. Extra humidity is beneficial.<br />
BEGONIA-REX Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Decorative leaves. Colorful foliage plant.<br />
Begonia rex before watering. Keep Many interesting varieties.<br />
leaves dry.<br />
BIRD OF PARADISE Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Orange & blue bird-like Flowers after plants are 7 years old.<br />
Strelitzia reginae before watering. flower occurs in spring! Prefers to be root-bound.<br />
Reduce watering in winter. Lg. leaves on long stalk. Keep cooler in winter.<br />
BONSAI According to species Frequent watering. Foliage pruned to form. Outdoor varieties require cold<br />
Buxus, Ficus, etc. Stunted growth because treatment. Tropicals are easier to<br />
of restricted rooting. care for. Examples are fig, boxwood<br />
& natal plum.<br />
BOUGAINVILLEA Direct sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Colored bracts on Excellent climber for direct sunlight<br />
Bougainvillea buttiana before watering. Reduce in paperyflowers. locations. Woody, climbing shrub.<br />
the winter. Climbing leaves.<br />
BROMELIADS Bright filtered sunlight Keep cup-like reservoir Colorful flowers and Prefer warm temperatures & high<br />
Aechmea, Neoregalia filled with water. bracts.Various humidity. To propagate remove and<br />
Stemless rosette of leaves. variegated leaves. plant offsets.<br />
Aloe vera Japanese Aralia<br />
Bougainvillea<br />
HoUSePLAntS<br />
Bird of Paradise
HoUSePLAntS<br />
6<br />
HoUSePLAntS StAnDinG<br />
all houseplants listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
NAMES LIGHT WATER FLOWERS/FOLIAGE FEATURES/CULTURE<br />
BUNYA BUNYA Bright indirect sunlight Moderately dry Sharp pointed needles. Unique, coniferous evergreen tree.<br />
Araucaria bidwillii between waterings Shiny foliage.<br />
CACTI Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Various colored flowers. Spines are actually modified leaves.<br />
Cereus, Euphorbia, etc. thoroughly before watering. Peruvian tree cactus and milk tree.<br />
Reduce watering in winter. Well-drained, sandy soil.<br />
CALADIUM Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist Heart-shaped, paper-thin Grown from tubers.<br />
Caladium x hortulanum in summer. leaves ornamented Foliage dies down in fall and goes<br />
Stop watering in fall. with various colors. dormant. Commonly called elephant ears<br />
CALATHEA Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Ornate leaves. Intricately patterned, colorful foliage.<br />
Calathea makoyana Benefits from extra humidity. Similar looking & culture as Prayer Plant.<br />
CAST IRON PLANT Medium to low light Allow soil surface to dry out Tough-as-nails plant for low light and<br />
Aspidistra elatior thoroughly before watering. Lance-shaped leaves. temp. Requires least care of house<br />
Reduce watering in winter. plants. Keep leaves free of dust.<br />
Avoid wet feet.<br />
CHINA DOLL Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Compound leaves with This plant is as pretty as a China doll.<br />
Radermachera sinica glossy leaflets. Delicate exquisite foliage.<br />
CHINESE EVERGREEN Medium to low light Allow soil surface to dry out Lance- shaped leaves Several varieties including Silver<br />
Aglaonema commutatum before watering. with many variegations Queen. Easy to grow; for home or office.<br />
CITRUS Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Fragrant white flowers. No fertilizer in winter; allow to dry out<br />
Citrus species before watering. Glossy green leaves. in winter. Prefers cooler night & winter<br />
temperatures.<br />
CROTON Bright direct sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Various leaf colors Variegated leaves provide indoor<br />
Codiaeum variegatum Extra humidity is beneficial. and shapes contrast. Keep leaves clean of dust.<br />
DUMB CANE Medium sunlight Allow soil to dry out Variegated oblong Decorative foliage plant.<br />
Dieffenbachia species before watering. leaves. Low maintenance plant tolerates low light<br />
DRACAENA Medium sunlight Allow soil to dry out Green or striped, Janet Craig/warnecki/corn cane/<br />
Dracaena species before watering. lance-shaped leaves. marginata. Accent plants used for<br />
interior landscapes.<br />
FERNS Filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Various shaped fronds! Shade tolerant, moisture loving plants.<br />
Asplenium, Pellaea, etc.<br />
Calathea Croton<br />
China Doll<br />
Fern<br />
Chinese Evergreen<br />
Caladium
HoUSePLAntSStAnDinG all houseplants listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
NAMES LIGHT WATER FLOWERS/FOLIAGE FEATURES/CULTURE<br />
FIG-WEEPING Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Wavy oval leaves. Graceful weeping tree. Favorite<br />
Ficus benjamina foliage plant for interior landscapers.<br />
FLAMINGO FLOWER Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Red or pink spathes. Long-lasting cut flower of Hawaii.<br />
Anthurium species Extra humidity is beneficial. Ovate leathery leaves.<br />
HOMALOMENA Low to med. sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Heart-shaped leaves. Similar to Philodendron.<br />
Homalomena species thoroughly before watering. Em gem cultivar is available.<br />
JADE PLANT Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Delicate white flowers. Popular succulent with jade green<br />
Crassula argentea thoroughly before watering. Succulent leaves. leaves. Jades like to be pot-bound.<br />
JASMINE Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. White fragrant flowers. Several climbing varieties available.<br />
Jasminum species Extra humidity is beneficial. Small leaflets. Use on trellis or as a hanging plant.<br />
KAFFIR LILY Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist Orange funnel-like Prefers to be root bound.<br />
Clivia miniata during spring & summer. flowers. Long narrow, Needs 2 months cool dry, winter rest<br />
glossy leaves. period.<br />
MONEY TREE Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil to dry out Elongated leaves. 5 leaves symbolize 5 elements of Feng<br />
Pachira moderatly before watering. 5 per stem. shui.<br />
PALMS Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Feathery fronds. Graceful exotic, tropical foliage plants.<br />
Chamaedorea, Phoenix, Extra humidity is beneficial. areca, bamboo, date, fan, kentia, & lady.<br />
Chamaerops, Rhapis, etc. Require good drainage. Many varieties with several leaf shapes.<br />
PALM-PONYTAIL Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Arching narrow leaves. Swollen stem base stores water.<br />
Beaucarnea recurvata thoroughly before watering. Not a true palm; actually a succulent.<br />
PASSION FLOWER Bright direct sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Intricate flowers. Unusual flowers.<br />
Passiflora species Extra humidity is beneficial. Lobed leaves. Beautiful exotic varieties.<br />
PEACE LILY Med to low sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. White spathe on long Easiest flowering plant for low light<br />
Spathiphyllum 'Mauna Loa' stem. Lance-shaped area. Interior landscape plant. Called<br />
leaves. white flag.<br />
PEPEROMIA Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Round fleshy leaves. Several species are semi-succulent such<br />
Peperomia species out thoroughly before as watermelon, emerald ripple, pepper<br />
watering. face.<br />
PHILODENDRON Low to med sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Heart-shaped, Many varieties including Selloum and<br />
Philodendron species out before watering. large leaves. Xanadu. Easy to grow plants that<br />
tolerate low light.<br />
PHILODENDRON-SPLIT Low to med sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Large perforated, Plant sends out aerial roots.<br />
Monstera deliciosa LEAF out before watering. split leaves.<br />
Weeping Fig Jade Plant<br />
Money Tree<br />
HoUSePLAntS<br />
Peace Lily<br />
Homalomena
HoUSePLAntS<br />
HoUSePLAntS<br />
StAnDinG<br />
all houseplants listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
NAMES LIGHT WATER FLOWERS/FOLIAGE FEATURES/CULTURE<br />
PINE-BUDDHIST Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Large linear leaves. Coniferous evergreen tree.<br />
Podocarpus macrophyllus Requires staking and cool winter temp.<br />
PINE-FERN Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Linear leaves. Graceful coniferous evergreen tree.<br />
Podocarpus gracilior Drooping foliage.<br />
PINE-NORFOLK ISLANDBright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly Soft needles. Coniferous evergreen with tiered<br />
Araucaria excelsa branches. Can be decorated as indoor<br />
Christmas tree.<br />
POLKA DOT PLANT Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Lavender flowers. Adds a splash of color to the home or<br />
Hypoestes phyllostachya Pink spots on leaves. office. Prune to retain bushiness.<br />
RUBBER PLANT Medium sunlight Allow soil to dry out Thick oval leaves. Old-fashioned, sturdy house plant.<br />
Ficus elastica before watering. Good drainage. Keep leaves clean.<br />
SCHEFFLERA Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Compound leaves. Popular foliage plant for interior<br />
Schefflera actinophylla out before watering. landscapes. Two species are umbrella<br />
Schefflera arboricola tree and Hawaiian. Small tree or large<br />
shrub for home or office.<br />
SENSITIVE PLANT Bright direct sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Compound lacy leaflets. Unique feature of folding leaves if<br />
Mimosa pudica touched. Popular plant with kids to show<br />
plants move.<br />
SNAKE PLANT Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry out Erect, lance-shaped, One of the hardiest of all indoor plants.<br />
Sansevieria trifasciata Tolerates mid-low light. thoroughly before watering. variegated rosette Semi-succulent plants such as bird's<br />
Sansevieria zeylanica Provide good drainage. of leaves. nest. Easy to care for, popular plants.<br />
SUCCULENTS Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Various colored flowers. Various species of varying forms and<br />
Agave, Aloe, thoroughly before watering. Fleshy succulent leaves. hangers. Needs cool dry, dormancy<br />
Haworthia, etc. Provide good drainage. period in winter. Needs well-drained<br />
sandy soil. Easy to grow.<br />
TI PLANT Medium sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Variegated, Hawaiian or Polynesian plant.<br />
Cordyline terminalis out before watering. lance-shaped leaves. Similar culture to Dracaena.<br />
VENUS FLY TRAP Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Rosette of leaves. Novelty carnivorous plant feeds on<br />
Dionaea muscipula Extra humidity is required. insects. 'Mouths' do not reopen once<br />
closed.<br />
YUCCA Bright direct sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Lance-shaped leaves. Durable plant tolerates adverse<br />
Yucca elephantipes out thoroughly before conditions. Evergreen accent or<br />
watering. specimen shrub.<br />
Snake Plant Rubber Plant<br />
Schefflera<br />
Ti Plant<br />
Norfolk Island Pine<br />
Venus Fly Trap
HoUSePLAntS<br />
fLoWerinG<br />
all houseplants listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
NAMES LIGHT WATER FLOWERS/FOLIAGE FEATURES/CULTURE<br />
AFRICAN VIOLET Bright filtered sunlight Allow to partially dry. Available in many colors, Fertilize with African Violet fertilizer<br />
Saintpaulia ionantha Do not get leaves wet. continuous blooming. or one with a higher middle number.<br />
Popular, reliable flowering houseplant.<br />
AZALEA Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Pink, red or white, Woody shrub with oval leaves.<br />
Rhododendron species continual flowers. Prefers cool, humid area & acidic soil.<br />
BEGONIA-REIGER Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to Yellow, pink, orange, Avoid getting water on leaves.<br />
Begonia hiemalis dry before watering. salmon, white and red. Pinch to keep shape.<br />
CHENILLE PLANT Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Long red, fuzzy, Avoid draft or sudden temp. change.<br />
Acalypha hispida fabric-like tassels. Unique colorful fuzzy blossoms.<br />
CINERARIA Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Daisy-like flowers with Winter blooming, short day plant.<br />
Senecio cruentes various colored petal tips. Triangular toothed leaves.<br />
CYCLAMEN Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Purple, pink, red, or white Winter blooming and can be reforced.<br />
Cyclamen persicum stunning flowers. Gorgeous plant for gift giving.<br />
FLOWERING MAPLE Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Red, pink, yellow or white. Evergreen woody shrub.<br />
Abutilon hybridum Maple-like leaves. Also called 'Chinese Lantern'.<br />
GARDENIA Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Fragrant white semi- Glossy ovate leaves.<br />
<strong>Garden</strong>ia jasminoides Needs extra humidity. double or double flowers. Needs cool nights: 60-65 F (15-18 C)<br />
GERBERA DAISY Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to White, red, yellow, Spectacular blooms in vivid colors.<br />
Gerbera jamesonii dry before watering. orange, or hot pink Likes outdoor cool temp. in summer.<br />
daisies on long stems. Also known as 'Transvaal Daisy'.<br />
GLOXINIA Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Velvety blooms in purple, Dry rest period for 3 mo., then repot.<br />
Sinningia speciosa Do not get leaves wet. white, pink, or red. Old-fashioned favorite.<br />
HIBISCUS Bright direct sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Large red, pink, white, Woody shrub with toothed leaves.<br />
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Likes extra humidity. yellow or orange Spectacular continuous blooms.<br />
ephemeral flowers. Fertilizer with high last numbers.<br />
HYDRANGEA Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Large pink or blue Flower color is determined by<br />
Hydrangea macrophylla flower clusters. alkalinity or acidity of soil.<br />
KALANCHOE Bright direct sunlight Allow soil surface to Clusters of long-lasting Succulent plant with fleshy leaves.<br />
Kalanchoe blossfeldiana dry before watering. red or pink flowers. Xmas flower plant called 'Flaming<br />
Katy'.<br />
LILY, CALLA Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Pure white spathes. Attractive leaves.<br />
Zantedeschia aethiopica Needs extra humidity. Requires dry rest period.<br />
LILY, KAFFIR Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Orange, trumpet-shaped. Requires cool, dry, winter rest period.<br />
Clivia miniata Reduce water in fall. Strap-shaped leaves. Fabulous flowering plant.<br />
Hydrangea Kalanchoe<br />
Hibiscus<br />
<strong>Garden</strong>ia<br />
HoUSePLAntS<br />
African Violet<br />
Cyclamen
HoUSePLAntS<br />
100<br />
HoUSePLAntSfLoWerinG all houseplants listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
NAMES LIGHT WATER FLOWERS/FOLIAGE FEATURES/CULTURE<br />
MUM, POT Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Various colored daisies in Florists' mums are long-lived blooms.<br />
Chrysanthemum morifolium forms such as pompom. Popular gift plant for moms!<br />
ORCHIDS: Bright filtered sunlight Allow potting media to Various colors of Keep away from heat registers.<br />
Epiphytic & Terrestrial dry before watering. exquisite flowers. Care & culture depends on variety.<br />
Phalaenopsis, etc. Needs extra humidity. Moth orchid is the easiest to bloom.<br />
See our Orchid page for more info.<br />
PERSIAN VIOLET Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Purple or white Native to Persia. Avoid drafts.<br />
Exacum affine fragrant flowers.<br />
POINSETTIA Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to Colorful bracts in Traditional Xmas plant.<br />
Euphorbia pulcherrima dry before watering. red, pink, or white. Group together as a show piece.<br />
Adds a festive touch to any decor.<br />
See our Chrismas section of the<br />
guide for information on reblooming.<br />
PRIMROSES Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Clusters of bright, fragrant Primroses are a prelude to spring.<br />
Primula species flowers in pink, purple, Available species are Fairy, German,<br />
red, white & yellow. Chinese & polyanthus.<br />
PRIMROSE-CAPE Bright filtered sunlight Allow soil surface to Purple, pink or white Same family as African Violet.<br />
Streptocarpus species dry between waterings tubular flowers. Fertilize for long-lived blossoms.<br />
ROSE, Miniature Bright direct sunlight Keep soil evenly moist. Mini fragrant flowers. Great gift for loved ones!<br />
Rosa chinensis Likes extra humidity. Available in various colors. Remove spent flowers for reblooming.<br />
We guarantee<br />
to provide our<br />
customers<br />
with plant<br />
material of<br />
excellent quality.<br />
All indoor, standing and<br />
hanging house plants<br />
are guaranteed for thirty<br />
(30) days.<br />
You will receive a credit<br />
towards a replacement<br />
plant.<br />
HoUSe PLAnt GUArAntee<br />
S e a s o n a l f l o w e r i n g<br />
house plants are not<br />
guaranteed because of<br />
their perishable nature.<br />
Bonsai plants and orchids<br />
are also not guaranteed.<br />
Store Phone Numbers:<br />
Calgary: 274-4286<br />
Medicine Hat: 526-2378
HoUSePLAntSHAnGinG all houseplants listed subject to<br />
seasonal and supplier availability<br />
NAMES LIGHT WATER FLOWERS/FOLIAGE FEATURES/CULTURE<br />
ARROWHEAD VINE Bright filtered sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Arrow-shaped, Easy to grow hanging houseplant.<br />
Syngonium podophyllum out before watering. variegated leaves. Suitable for lower light area.<br />
BABY’S TEARS Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Tear-sized, Creeping ground cover with trailing<br />
Soleirolia soleirolii Extra humidity is required. tiny round leaves. stems. Great for gound cover in<br />
terrarium or hanger.<br />
BURRO’S TAIL Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Fleshy succulent Hanging leaves look like donkey tail.<br />
Sedum morganianum before watering. leaves. Withstands low humidity of houses.<br />
BRIDAL VEIL Bright direct sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Small white flowers. Trailing plant.<br />
Gibasis geniculata Delicate foliage and flowers.<br />
CREEPING CHARLIE Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Circular crinkled leaves. Creeping ground cover plant.<br />
Pilea nummulariifolia Easily propagated by stem/leaf cuttings.<br />
FERNS Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Distinctive, dissected, Suitable for hanging basket or plant<br />
Nephrolepis, Adiantum Extra humidity is required. delicate, lacy fronds. stand. Includes traditional Boston and<br />
unique staghorn.<br />
FIG-CREEPING Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Heart-shaped, Self-clinging, climbing or hanging plant.<br />
Ficus pumila small leaves. Suitable for use as a ground cover or on<br />
pole.<br />
GLORY BOWER Bright filtered sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. White sepals and red Tall twining shrub with trailing stems.<br />
Clerodendron thompsonae petals. Ovate leaves. Requires cool, dry, winter rest period.<br />
Also called bleeding heart vine!<br />
GOLDFISH PLANT Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Orange pouch flowers. Blooms resemble goldfish!<br />
Hypocyrta glabra Glossy green leaves. Trailing vine is outstanding flowering<br />
hanger.<br />
IVY-ENGLISH Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Green or variegated Trailing, climbing vine with several<br />
Hedera helix out before watering. lobed leaves. varieties. Good hanging plant for bright<br />
location.<br />
IVY-GRAPE Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Compound leaves with Fast growing, climbing, trailing vine.<br />
Cissus rhombifolia out before watering. 3 toothed leaflets. Member of the true grape vine family.<br />
IVY-KANGAROO Bright indirect sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Toothed ovate, Member of the grape ivy family.<br />
Cissus antarctica out before watering. glossy leaves.<br />
IVY-SWEDISH Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Aromatic, square stems. Trailing, fast growing, hanging<br />
Plectrantus australis Small oval leaves. houseplant. Easy to prune & propagate.<br />
LIPSTICK PLANT Bright direct sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Red tube-like flowers. Trailing stems suitable in a hanging<br />
Aeschynanthus species Elliptic leaves. basket. Blossoms resemble lipstick<br />
tubes!<br />
NERVE PLANT Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Small oval, Creeping ground cover plant.<br />
Fittonia verschaffeltii Extra humidity is required. veined leaves. Variegated veins look like nerves.<br />
POTHOS-GOLDEN Medium sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Heart-shaped, Easy to grow climbing or hanging plant.<br />
Scindapsus aureus out before watering. variegated leaves. Also called devil's ivy. Also marble<br />
queen.<br />
PRAYER PLANT Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Ornate oblong leaves. Suitable plant for trellis or hanger.<br />
Maranta leuconeura Extra humidity is required. Leaves bend up at night to pray!<br />
PURPLE PASSION VINE Bright indirect sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Velvety, purple Pinch off any flower buds as flowers<br />
Gynura sarmentosa Avoid getting foliage wet. hairy leaves smell bad. Also called velvet plant.<br />
SPIDER PLANT Medium sunlight Keep soil uniformly moist. Arching, variegated, Small spider-shaped, hanging plantlets.<br />
Chlorophytum comosum linear leaves. Colorful foliage that also cleans the air.<br />
STRING OF PEARLS Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Pea-shaped, Pearly unique, dangling leaves on a<br />
Senecio rowleyanus before watering. succulent leaves. string. Withstands low humidity of<br />
houses.<br />
WANDERING JEW Medium sunlight Allow soil surface to dry Purple and green, Colorful foliage.<br />
Zebrina pendula out before watering. ovate leaves. Beautiful hanging houseplant.<br />
WAX PLANT Bright direct sunlight Allow soil to dry out Waxy scented flowers. Semi-succulent, climbing foliage.<br />
Hoya carnosa before watering. Fleshy leaves. Prefers to be root bound.<br />
HoUSePLAntS 101
HoUSePLAntS<br />
102<br />
HoUSePLAntS BonSAi<br />
Bonsai does not refer to a type of plant, but rather<br />
describes a method of pruning and shaping to create<br />
an illusion of a very old, miniature tree. A dwarf plant is<br />
created by restricting the root zone in a shallow pot. A<br />
bonsai can be created from any plant which develops<br />
a woody trunk and tolerates pruning well. Bonsai are<br />
classified into tropical plants, deciduous shrubs or<br />
evergreens. There are several forms, such as formal<br />
upright, informal upright, cascade and windswept.<br />
The easiest bonsai to care for, if you are a<br />
beginning novice, is a tropical plant. A fig, for example,<br />
grows well in our indoor living conditions, so continues<br />
to do so after it is pruned and repotted. Also suitable<br />
are boxwood (Buxus), Fukien Tea (Carmona), Myrtle<br />
(Myrtus), Natal Plum (Carissa), and Tree of a Thousand<br />
Stars (Serissa).<br />
Deciduous shrubs and trees need a cold,<br />
dormant period in the winter, just as if they were<br />
growing outdoors. Plants such as Young's Weeping<br />
Birch, Siberian Elm, Cotoneaster damneri, and Pygmy<br />
Caragana form attractive bonsai. During the winter<br />
they need to be kept in a cool but frost-free area and<br />
need little light once they have lost their leaves. Close<br />
to but not touching a window in a cool room is suitable.<br />
They can't be kept outside in their pots above ground<br />
during the winter, as the soil temperature fluctuates<br />
dramatically during our weather changes. A garage<br />
heated to just above freezing is suitable, or the plant<br />
may be buried in the ground to just above the pot rim,<br />
then mulched well over the winter.<br />
Evergreens are the most challenging. Because<br />
they need high humidity in the winter, and a temperature<br />
just above freezing, they cannot be grown successfully<br />
in your living room. They will tolerate a windowsill if<br />
kept close enough to the glass to be quite cool, as long<br />
as the needles don't touch the glass if it is very cold<br />
outside. Keep warm air away from the pot and ensure<br />
there is no hot air register under them. To increase<br />
humidity, set the pot on pebbles in a large tray with the<br />
water level just below the top of the pebbles. Water<br />
evaporates from the tray and creates higher humidity<br />
around the plant.<br />
The amount of light a bonsai needs depends<br />
on the type of plant. Figs, for example, need medium<br />
sunlight while azaleas require bright filtered light and<br />
citrus needs bright direct sunlight. Deciduous trees need<br />
no light when they have lost their leaves in the winter,<br />
and a bright, sunny spot when in leaf. When evergreens<br />
are cold in the winter, they go semi-dormant so need<br />
little light, but need a bright light when warm enough to<br />
grow. Many bonsai are grown under fluorescent lights,<br />
usually using one cool white and one warm white bulb.<br />
The lights must be quite close to the plants, and the<br />
length of the day depends on the type.<br />
Because bonsai are in small pots, with their<br />
roots confined, watering is critical. Soil mixtures should<br />
encourage good drainage, and will vary depending<br />
on the type of plant. Inserting a finger into the soil<br />
will tell you if the soil is damp, or dry enough to need<br />
water. No bonsai soil surface should be covered with<br />
any material that prevents water from evaporating from<br />
the surface, or does not allow you to feel the soil. In hot<br />
weather, most bonsai will need checking for water daily,<br />
as once a plant dries out, the roots may not be able to<br />
absorb water and it could die. After many years of care,<br />
that may be devastating! Bonsai do not need a great<br />
deal of fertilizer, as you not want to encourage rapid<br />
growth. The type of fertilizer used depends on the type<br />
of plant, but is generally a balanced one, such as 20-<br />
20-20, for deciduous trees or tropicals, and 30-10-10 for<br />
evergreens. Use half the recommended strength only,<br />
and do not fertilize in the winter unless it is a tropical that<br />
is activley growing under fluorescent lights.<br />
There are specific rules for pruning, wiring, etc.,<br />
and many good books are available in our book stores to<br />
help you. Remember that if the book suggests growing<br />
outside, it may be referring to Japan! We encourage you<br />
to ask for our assistance to help you enjoy your Bonsai!
HoUSePLAntS orCHiDS<br />
Cymbidium - Kit Ho<br />
The orchid family includes 25,000<br />
species, with a large variety in<br />
size, shape and color. Most of<br />
these, the house plant grower<br />
never sees. Many of these are<br />
very difficult to grow but there<br />
are also orchids which can be<br />
grown very successfully indoors<br />
by anyone who can grow<br />
houseplants. Orchids have<br />
the longest lasting flowers<br />
of all houseplants, up to 4<br />
months. For convenience,<br />
orchids are classified into<br />
two basic types by growth<br />
habit. Epiphytic orchids grow<br />
on trees for support, such as<br />
Oncidium or Phalaenopsis.<br />
Terrestrial orchids grow with<br />
their roots in soil. Care is slightly<br />
different for each type. There is also<br />
two types of growth. Those with<br />
a monopodial type become taller<br />
each year, growing only at the<br />
tip of the stem. Leaves are in<br />
two rows on opposite sides<br />
of the stem, alternating from<br />
side to side. An example is<br />
Dendrobium. The second,<br />
and more common type is<br />
sympodial. In this case, the<br />
upward growth of the plant stops<br />
after one growing season, and the<br />
next year’s growth comes from the<br />
base. Blooms come from the tips<br />
of recent growth or from the sides<br />
or bases of it. Cymbidiums are<br />
sympodial orchids. Sympodial<br />
orchids have pseudobulbs,<br />
thickened stems that store food<br />
and water and enable the plant to<br />
survive periods of drought.<br />
Orchid leaves are usually thick and<br />
leathery and the vast majority are<br />
evergreen. The flowers always<br />
contain three sepals and three<br />
petals, but the variety is<br />
remarkable.<br />
Orchids may be grouped<br />
into three general categories,<br />
according to the temperature<br />
they prefer for their best growth.<br />
Cool-growing orchids prefer<br />
daytime temperatures of 60-70<br />
F(15-21 C) during the day, dropping<br />
to 50-55 F (10-13C) at night. This group<br />
includes Cymbidium. Intermediate<br />
temperatures of 65-75 F (18-24 C)<br />
during the day and 55-60 F (13-16 C)<br />
at night are suitable for Cattlyea and<br />
Dendrobium. Daytime temperatures of<br />
75-85 F (24-29 C) dropping to 65-75 F<br />
(18-24 C) at night, are best for warmgrowing<br />
orchids such as Phalaenopsis.<br />
This does not mean that you need<br />
separate rooms for each type of orchid;<br />
the cool growing one will be okay closest<br />
to a window and the warm growing one<br />
in a warmer area of your room.<br />
Orchids do need higher humidity than<br />
is usual in our homes, particularly in<br />
the winter. Pebble trays (large saucers<br />
or pans filled with pebbles or marbles),<br />
with the level of water just below the top<br />
of the pebbles and the plant sitting on<br />
the pebbles, so that water can’t get into<br />
the pot from the bottom but evaporates<br />
around it; or saucers of water with plastic<br />
egg crating, wire mesh or cake racks on<br />
top help to increase the humidity in the<br />
immediate vicinity of the plants.<br />
The amount of light orchids need varies<br />
considerably, depending on the type of<br />
orchid. It is important to identify your<br />
orchid and choose plants best suited for<br />
your growing area. Many may be grown<br />
on window sills and others thrive under<br />
florescent or high-intensity lights.<br />
Most orchids are potted into fir bark<br />
although there are other suitable<br />
potting media. Choose appropriate size<br />
pieces for the pot size, ensuring so by<br />
buying only that packaged specifically<br />
for orchids. Any container with a<br />
drainage hole can be used. Typically,<br />
clay pots are used, but ceramic pots<br />
may be successful. Because they are<br />
not porous, care must be taken not to<br />
over water. Some orchids are fastened<br />
to slabs of bark or logs, and hung from<br />
the ceiling or on walls, duplicating their<br />
natural environment.<br />
Watering frequency depends on the<br />
size and type of container. Orchids in<br />
small pots need watering more often<br />
than ones in a larger pots; plants<br />
growing in clay pots or on bark dry out<br />
more quickly than those in plastic pots.<br />
Orchids won't tolerate stagnant water<br />
HoUSePLAntS 10
HoUSePLAntS<br />
10<br />
HoUSePLAntS orCHiDS<br />
around their roots or bark that is constantly wet. Allow the<br />
bark to become dry before watering again.<br />
Orchid fertilizer or 20-20-20 fertilizer is suitable. Use more<br />
frequently when plants are actively growing and less in winter<br />
when light levels are lower and plants are in a semi-dormant<br />
stage. Orchids need a cycle of growth and dormancy, so if<br />
they are being grown under artificial lights, the length<br />
of day will indicate how long lights<br />
should be on.<br />
Orchids are prone to fungal<br />
disease and root rot, caused<br />
usually<br />
by poor drainage or too<br />
frequent watering.<br />
Insect problems are<br />
rare but sometimes<br />
m e a l y b u g s<br />
appear. If this<br />
h a p p e n s ,<br />
check with our<br />
staff for help<br />
with a suitable<br />
control.<br />
Of the many types<br />
of orchids available,<br />
Phalaenopsis, dwarf<br />
Cattleya and Dendrobium are the<br />
easiest to grow and bloom successfully. For the<br />
beginner, these are definitely worth a try and require no unusual<br />
growing conditions. For more detailed information on growing<br />
orchids see our bookstore.<br />
Cattleya: Cattleyas become large plants, but there are also<br />
dwarf varieties which are more suitable for our homes. They<br />
need a warm, sunny spot; and should become dry before<br />
watering. They will produce one or two flower spikes<br />
each year.<br />
Cymbidium: Keep these orchids in bright light.<br />
They need cool evening temperatures to ensure<br />
blooming. Place plants outside in late May and leave<br />
them out until early September or until threat of frost.<br />
During the summer water freely and fertilize with a<br />
well-balanced plant food. This will ensure healthy,<br />
strong new growth. In August stop feeding and decrease<br />
water. This will put the plant into a stress situation which<br />
is essential to force it to initiate flower spike production. At<br />
this time, night temperatures must be considerably colder<br />
than daytime temperatures.The starting spike will appear at<br />
the base of mature new growth. At this time start fertilizing<br />
with a high potassium plant food. Watering should be resumed<br />
to a normal amount. Cool evening temperatures must be<br />
maintained if possible or the spike will wither or buds may<br />
drop. If all goes well your plant will reward you with as many<br />
as thirty blooms on a single spike that lasts up to 3 months<br />
on the plant or several weeks if cut.<br />
Dendrobium: Dendrobiums are epiphytic orchids that come<br />
in a variety of vivid colors and sizes. They have several stalks<br />
with flower clusters in rows along them. Dendrobiums flower<br />
in spring or summer and each bloom lasts approximately 2<br />
months, ensuring continuous enjoyment. These orchids have<br />
similar cultural requirements as Phalaenopsis. Dendrobiums<br />
need bright filtered sunlight, high phosphorus fertilizer and<br />
high humidity.<br />
Phalaenopsis(Moth orchid): These plants are native<br />
primarily to Southeast Asia where the climate is warm and<br />
moist. They are well suited to home culture. The Moth Orchid<br />
(the common name for Phalaenopsis), needs bright light,<br />
good air circulation, regular watering as necessary<br />
and average to slightly cool temperature. Bloom<br />
spikes are produced sporadically throughout the<br />
year. After blooms fade do not cut off the spike.<br />
The spike tip may continue to produce buds or<br />
branches may form from nodes lower down the<br />
spike. Flowering lasts 3-4 months on the spike<br />
in the pot, or 1 - 2 weeks if cut and floating in<br />
a bowl.<br />
Orchids such as the above mentioned are relatively easy<br />
to grow. They will reward attentive growers with exotic<br />
and beautiful color and variety. In a well-planned collection<br />
blooming is possible every season of the year.
HoUSePLAntS trAnSPLAntinG<br />
House plants may be repotted for two reasons; either<br />
the plant has outgrown its pot and needs a larger one,<br />
or the potting mix needs replacing but the plant can be<br />
returned into the same pot. Young plants in small pots<br />
need repotting more often than older, larger ones. If<br />
water runs quickly through the soil into the saucer and<br />
the plant needs watering more often because the soil<br />
isn't retaining moisture, it could need a larger pot.<br />
Early spring, just as new growth begins, is an ideal time<br />
to repot, but a plant that needs repotting should be done<br />
anytime of the year, except when actively flowering.<br />
Choose a pot one size larger than before (e.g. an eightinch<br />
pot if the plant has outgrown a six-inch one). A plant<br />
in a pot too large cannot absorb moisture from the soil<br />
quickly enough to allow air into the soil and root damage<br />
may result.<br />
Most plants do well in ceramic, clay or plastic pots.<br />
Unglazed clay pots allow the soil to dry out more quickly,<br />
which is preferable for cacti and succulents, and allow<br />
gaseous exchange. Soil in plastic or glazed ceramic pots<br />
stays moist longer, which is appropriate for ferns and<br />
ivies. With careful watering, a plant will do well in any<br />
type of pot. Choose a pot with drainage holes to allow<br />
excess water to drain from the soil. If you use rocks in<br />
the bottom of the pot, be sure a rock isn't plugging the<br />
drainage hole, and cover the rock layer with a piece of<br />
landscape fabric or fiberglass screening to prevent soil<br />
and roots from entering the space between the rocks. Be<br />
sure water doesn't remain standing in drainage saucers.<br />
Most potting mixes are combinations of peat moss,<br />
vermiculite, perlite and/or sand. Cacti and succulents<br />
need extra sand added to improve drainage (one part<br />
sand to one part potting mix is suitable). Other house<br />
plants such as dracaenas, palms, or citrus that need<br />
well drained soil should have about one part sand added<br />
to three parts potting mix. When repotting remove what<br />
soil comes off easily, without damaging the roots; and<br />
add new soil in the bottom and the sides, placing the<br />
plant at the same depth it was previously. Leave 1/2<br />
inch between soil level and the rim of the pot to make<br />
watering easier.<br />
Water house plants when the soil in the pot is as dry<br />
as it should be for that plant. Some need to become<br />
completely dry (e.g. cactus), some must always be moist<br />
(e.g. azalea), and most should allow the soil surface<br />
to partially dry before watering. Water thoroughly, so<br />
that a small amount trickles through the drainage hole,<br />
indicating that the whole root ball has been moistened,<br />
and remove any water remaining in the saucer. Water<br />
again when the soil has become as dry as it should be<br />
for that plant. Inserting a finger into the soil will indicate<br />
if the plant requires watering. Soil pulling away from the<br />
side of the pot also indicates a need for water. Watering<br />
too often is a very common problem, and can cause root<br />
rot, so it is important to check each plant, and not water<br />
them all because one plant needs a drink! Do not fertilize<br />
until the plant has shown some sign of new growth. At<br />
that point, your plant has settled nicely into its new pot<br />
and should continue to thrive.<br />
HoUSePLAntS ProPAGAtion<br />
You may want to propagate a plant because you want more<br />
plants, such as an African violet you wish to share with a<br />
friend. You may be concerned if the plant has a long stem<br />
and want to reroot it at a more suitable place (such as a<br />
dieffenbachia), or you may want to grow a plant from seed<br />
you saved or found or take cuttings from a plant.<br />
Leaf Cuttings: This method is used most often with<br />
African violets. Choose a leaf that is not the newest or the<br />
oldest, cutting it cleanly with 1 inch of stem. It can be rooted<br />
in water, but the roots are very fragile and more difficult<br />
to plant. A better choice is vermiculite, in a small pot (or<br />
styrofoam drinking cup), kept slightly moist. If you put clear<br />
plastic wrap over the cup of vermiculite and poke a hole in<br />
it with a pencil, you can insert the stem through the hole<br />
and it will support the leaf and also keep the vermiculite<br />
from drying out. A rooting hormone such as Stimroot will<br />
encourage root development. Simply dip the cut stem in the<br />
powder before it is inserted in the rooting material. When<br />
bushy little roots have developed, the plant is potted into a<br />
small pot in potting soil. Several little plants will be clumped<br />
together. They can be pulled apart and planted separately<br />
when still small.<br />
Stem Cuttings: Tropical plants such as ivy, creeping<br />
charley, wandering Jew, and geranium are easily<br />
propagated by cutting a piece off the end of a stem, with<br />
about five leaves on it. Cut just below a leaf, and cut that<br />
leaf off. It is rooted the same way as an African violet leaf.<br />
If the plant is one that needs high humidity, enclosing the<br />
cutting & pot in a plastic bag with an air hole punched in it<br />
will keep the humidity higher around the leaves until they<br />
root. Geranium cuttings should be left for the cut surface<br />
to dry before being inserted into the rooting material. Cacti<br />
and succulents should also be left to dry, and are best<br />
rooted in moist sand.<br />
Air Layering: Plants such as a dieffenbachia or rubber<br />
plant often lose lower leaves so that a tuft of leaves is at<br />
the top of a long stalk. By air layering you can form a root<br />
system just below the leaves to create a shorter, bushy<br />
plant. First, stake the plant, tying above and below where<br />
you want the roots to be. Choose a spot where you want<br />
the roots to be, just below where a leaf was. Cut a narrow<br />
wedge half way into the stalk, taking care not to cut all the<br />
way through! Rooting hormone inserted into the cut area<br />
with the knife blade will encourage rooting. Wrap moist<br />
sphagnum moss around the cut area, then cover with clear<br />
plastic, tying above and below the moss.<br />
Roots will take about 4 - 6 weeks — check periodically<br />
to be sure moss is damp. When a good root system has<br />
developed, cut stalk below roots and plant in a small pot.<br />
The stalk can be cut off a few inches above the soil and<br />
new leaves will form at that point. Pieces of stalk can also<br />
be rooted, by placing them horizontally in damp soil.<br />
Starting Plants from Seed: Many tropical plants will<br />
develop seeds if dead flowers are allowed to remain on the<br />
plant. African violets, weeping fig, palms and cactus are<br />
some examples. Leave the seed pod on the plant until it<br />
is starting to dry, then remove it and place in a warm, dry<br />
place until dry. Scatter seeds on moist soil in a shallow<br />
container and cover with clear plastic. Once seedlings<br />
emerge, keep in bright sun or under florescent lights,<br />
checking frequently to be sure soil doesn't dry. Repot when<br />
several leaves have grown, into separate small pots.<br />
HoUSePLAntS 10
treeS AnD SHrUBS<br />
106<br />
DeCiDUoUS<br />
fAVoriteS<br />
Ash (Fraxinus spp.)<br />
These fast-growing, large trees have long, compound<br />
leaves. They leaf out late in the spring and lose their<br />
leaves early in the fall after a short period of a brilliant<br />
yellow show. All ash varieties make excellent shade<br />
or street trees. Common types are Fallgold Black Ash<br />
which have a pyramidal form, Green Ash which have a<br />
dense, oval canopy, and Patmore Ash which is a male<br />
non-seeding clone of Green Ash.<br />
Birch (Betula spp.)<br />
The white bark of these trees peels off making them especially<br />
attractive in the winter months. White birch are<br />
often sold in an attractive multi-stemmed format. These<br />
stately trees make an excellent shade tree. Birches<br />
require a good supply of water in our dry summers to<br />
keep up their strength in order to fight off leaf miner<br />
and to prevent winter dieback, two major problems of<br />
birch. Good varieties are White Birch, Cut-leaf Weeping<br />
Birch, and Paper Birch.<br />
Hawthorn (Crataegus spp.)<br />
These medium textured small trees grow in an upright<br />
oval fashion. The glossy, dark green, coarsely toothed<br />
leaves form a dense, low-headed canopy. Branches of<br />
Hawthorn are covered with long, sharp thorns. These<br />
trees make excellent small shade trees and can easily<br />
be combined with shrubs and perennials. Snowbird<br />
Hawthorns feature bright white, long lasting double<br />
flowers in late spring. Toba Hawthorn has bright pink<br />
flowers in spring followed by clusters of dark red berries.<br />
Mountain Ash (Sorbus spp.)<br />
The compound fern-like dark green leaves of this<br />
tree turn orange and red in the fall and form a dense,<br />
low-headed canopy. Large clusters of scarlet colored<br />
berries follow the large clusters of white flowers. These<br />
berries are retained all winter long and attract birds.<br />
The dark reddish-brown bark is especially attractive in<br />
the winter months. All Mountain Ash trees make excellent,<br />
medium-sized shade trees and can be combined<br />
with shrubs and perennials. Good drainage for roots<br />
is necessary.<br />
Mayday (Prunus padus commutata)<br />
These coarse textured trees grow in an upright, spreading<br />
fashion. The oval-shaped green leaves, turning<br />
yellow in the fall, form an open, high-headed canopy.<br />
The large, fragrant clusters of white flowers, produced<br />
in May, are followed by small, black chokecherries.<br />
Maydays make excellent shade trees.<br />
Poplar (Populus spp.)<br />
Poplars are coarse-textured trees that rapidly grow<br />
into a large, broad specimen. The glossy green leaves,<br />
turning yellow in the fall, form a dense canopy. Two<br />
new and highly popular forms of Populus species are<br />
Swedish Columnar Aspen which has a very compact<br />
habit with small leaves similar to Trembling Aspen and<br />
Tower Poplar (pictured above) which bears larger, more<br />
triangular leaves and has a slightly more pyramidal<br />
form.<br />
Russian Olive (Eleagnus angustifolia)<br />
These fine textured trees grow in an upright oval<br />
fashion. The silvery, linear leaves form an open, lowheaded<br />
canopy. Dry, silvery seed follows the yellow,<br />
very fragrant flowers. The silvery color of this species<br />
contrasts well with evergreens. These trees perform<br />
best in sheltered locations.
DeCiDUoUS treeS yoUr qUeStionS<br />
Q: What can I do to give us some privacy on our<br />
back deck? There is about 8 feet from my back deck<br />
to my fence, and the neighbour’s deck is right on<br />
the other side of the fence.<br />
A. You have two options you could go with:<br />
1. You could add a lattice screen onto your deck.<br />
2. Plant narrow growing trees such as Swedish<br />
Columnar Aspens, or Tower Poplars. This would still<br />
allow a small walkway between your trees and your<br />
deck. They look best when planted in odd numbers<br />
such as three or five depending on the distance you<br />
need to cover.<br />
Q: My front yard is very small because I have a pie<br />
shaped lot. I was wondering if a spruce tree might<br />
be too overwhelming?<br />
A. Because the winter months outnumber the summer<br />
months it is recommended that you should plant 50%<br />
of your front yard with evergreens. Spruce are larger<br />
at the bottom which takes up a lot of space in your<br />
yard. You can substitute for an ornamental deciduous<br />
tree to minimize the ground area used. You can also<br />
complement the tree and the foundation of your house<br />
by planting junipers, dwarf pines, or cedars, to give you<br />
year round greenery.<br />
Q: I am looking for a fruit tree and I am wondering<br />
what will give me the best production and quality<br />
of fruit?<br />
A: There are many fruit trees available and they are<br />
very popular as new yards are smaller. Apples and<br />
crabapples give you the best quality and the highest<br />
consistent yields of fruit. Apricots, pears, and plums are<br />
also very hardy in Calgary, but fruit can be inconsistent<br />
due to late spring frosts which damage flower buds.<br />
Because of our short season early fall frosts can<br />
hamper fruit formation. More information in the fruit<br />
tree section.<br />
Q: When should I prune my tree?<br />
A: The rule of thumb for most trees is they should be<br />
pruned before leaves start to emerge in the spring.<br />
There are however some exceptions. Birch and<br />
maples should be pruned in late summer to prevent<br />
heavy bleeding (loss of sap). This is when the plant is<br />
starting to slow down its growth and the cut has the<br />
best chance of healing over. Diseased, damaged, or<br />
dead wood should be removed on sight regardless of<br />
season. Good books on pruning are available for the<br />
do it yourselfer.<br />
Q: My trees seem to be doing fine, but aren’t<br />
growing as fast as some of my neighbours’ trees.<br />
Is it necessary to fertilize my trees?<br />
A: Our body needs a whole spectrum of nutrients<br />
and micronutrients, and trees are no different. Your<br />
trees may be doing fine, but could be doing better.<br />
Fertilize in early spring with granular, water soluble,<br />
or slow-release tree stakes for established trees. You<br />
should stop in August as you want the trees to start<br />
the hardening off process in the fall. Different trees<br />
have different needs so please feel free to ask a staff<br />
member. Take care not to over-fertilize because it<br />
may contribute to polluting lakes and rivers. Overfertilization<br />
can also increase the likelihood of some<br />
plant diseases.<br />
Q. I have just cut down my poplar. How can I<br />
prevent it from suckering?<br />
A. Suckers, shoots of the tree that come up from the<br />
roots, are essentially the tree’s way of replacing the<br />
upper growth that has been removed. Nearly half<br />
of the tree exists underground in the form of roots.<br />
These roots need to survive so they send up suckers<br />
to allow the tree to photosynthesize and thus continue<br />
to survive. In this situation the worst thing you can do is<br />
grind the stump; you will be left with many independent<br />
roots. Leave the stump and drill holes at 45 degree<br />
angles near the top edge. Pour in a mixture of one part<br />
concentrate Killex to four parts water - any stronger<br />
will burn the plant tissue and the solution will not<br />
travel through the whole system. This will indtroduce<br />
a herbicide into the tree and should spread throughout<br />
the root system. You can help this process by applying<br />
regular strength Killex to any suckers that may come<br />
up.<br />
treeS AnD SHrUBS<br />
10
treeS AnD SHrUBS<br />
10<br />
Brandon Elm Plum<br />
Columnar Aspen<br />
Snowbird Hawthorn Mayday<br />
Dolgo Crabapple Cutleaf Weeping Birch
DeCiDUoUS treeS frUit treeS<br />
Apples (Malus spp.)<br />
There are a number of quite hardy apples that can be<br />
grown on the prairies. Apple trees are very decorative,<br />
provide the benefit of edible fruit, and are an appropriate<br />
size for small yard landscaping. All edible-fruited apple<br />
trees have white blossoms and require cross-pollination<br />
from other local apples or crabapple trees to produce<br />
fruit. Some varieties are Fall Red, Goodland, Harcourt,<br />
Norland, North Battleford, and September Ruby.<br />
Apple-crabs are fruit trees developed by crossing<br />
standard apples with crabapples. The fruit is generally<br />
smaller (less than 5 cm or 2” in diameter) but the trees<br />
are hardier than standard apples. Two varieties are<br />
Kerr and Rescue.<br />
Crabapples are very hardy and wide-spreading producing<br />
small, tart crabapples with a high pectin content<br />
making them exceptionally good for jelly making. A<br />
good variety is Dolgo with tart, juicy, and crisp fruit that<br />
ripens in late August.<br />
Apricots (Prunus armeniaca)<br />
Because apricot trees bloom so early in the spring late<br />
frosts often damage the flowers and prevent fruit from<br />
forming. Stop apricots from flowering early by heavily<br />
mulching the soil around the base of the trees. This will<br />
keep the soil temperature low. Remove the mulch in<br />
mid-May, allow the soil to warm and the blossoms to<br />
form after the danger of frost has passed. Since apricots<br />
are cross-pollinators two trees of different varieties are<br />
required to set fruit. All apricot varieties hardy enough<br />
for the prairies like Brookcot were developed from the<br />
Manchurian Apricot.<br />
Pears (Pyrus x spp.)<br />
As ornamental trees, the hardy pears are worth growing<br />
for their abundant, white flower clusters produced early<br />
in the spring and for their bright yellow to red autumn<br />
colors. The dense foliage is also an attractive glossy<br />
green color. The fruit, good for making jams or cooked<br />
desserts in most cases, is small and hard with gritty<br />
flesh. Since pears are cross-pollinators two varieties<br />
of trees are required to set fruit.<br />
Plums (Prunus spp.)<br />
Like apricots, plum trees bloom early in the spring.<br />
Follow the directions for apricots regarding the slowing<br />
of blossoming. Plums also require another variety<br />
for pollination. Good varieties are Brookgold, a yellow,<br />
sweet variety good for eating fresh, and Brookred, a<br />
red, sweet plum good for canning.<br />
treeS AnD SHrUBS<br />
10
treeS AnD SHrUBS<br />
110<br />
DeCiDUoUS treeS<br />
Names Height Spread Zone<br />
Summer<br />
Foliage<br />
Color<br />
Fall<br />
Foliage<br />
Color<br />
Flower<br />
Color<br />
Features<br />
all trees listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
AMUR CHERRY 30 ft. 15 ft. 3 Green Yellow White Black fruit follow flowers.<br />
Prunus maacki 9 m. 5 m. Colorful flaking bronze bark for winter color.<br />
AMUR MAPLE 16 ft. 10 ft. 3 Green Scarlet Samara Small graceful tree or large shrub.<br />
Acer ginnala 5 m. 3 m. Red Excellent fall color leaves and 2-winged seeds.<br />
APPLE - Malus<br />
BATTLEFORD 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Lg green/red striped fruit. Ripens Sept; fresh/cook<br />
COMBINATION 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow Lt Pink Minimum of 3 cultivars grafted onto 1 tree; unique<br />
FALL RED 15'/5m 12'/4m. 3 Green Yellow White Lg red fruit; Ripens in Sept; eat fresh; stores well<br />
GOODLAND 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Lg red/green fruit. Ripens mid Sept; fresh/cook/store<br />
HARALSON 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Lg green/red striped fruit. Ripe late Sept; fresh/store<br />
HARCOURT 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Fruit is red. Ripens late Sept; Good for eating fresh.<br />
HARDI-MAC 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow Lt Pink Bright red crisp fruit. Ripe late Sept. MacIntosh var.<br />
HEYER#12 16'/5.3m 13'/4.3m 3 Green Yellow Lt. Pink Early Ripening; good for eating fresh and cooking<br />
NORLAND 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Medium green fruit w/ red stripes; Ripe August; fresh<br />
NORKENT 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Lg green fruit w/ red stripes; like <strong>Golden</strong> Delicious<br />
PARKLAND 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Med. red fruit. Ripe August; fresh/cook/store<br />
PATTERSON 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Med. yellow fruit. Ripe mid Sept; fresh/cooking<br />
RED SPARKLE 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Med red/green fruit with nutty/fruity taste<br />
SEPTEMBER RUBY 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Med. red fruit. Ripe mid Sept; fresh/juice/store<br />
APPLECRAB - Malus - Cross of apple and crabapple<br />
KERR 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow White Med. dark red fruit; ripe Sept; eat fresh<br />
RESCUE 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow White Med. green/red striped fruit; Ripe Sept.<br />
APRICOT - Prunus<br />
BROOKCOT 16'/5m 13'/4m 4 Green Amber White 2 var. needed for pollination; better for flowers only<br />
MANCHURIAN 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Amber White Sm. fast-growing ; Rounded; winter hardy; xeriscape<br />
SCOUT 16'/5m 13'/4m 4 Green Amber White Similar to Brookcot; freestone fruit; canning & jams<br />
WESTCOT 16'/5m 13'/4m 4 Green Amber White As above; Freestone good for canning, jam making.<br />
ASH - Fraxinus<br />
FALLGOLD BLACK 30'/9m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow n/a More uniform shape than green ash; seedless<br />
FOOTHILLS 12'/4m 7'/2.5m 3 Green Yellow n/a Uniform shape; seedless; good fall color<br />
MANCHURIAN 30'/9m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow n/a Compact uniform street/ shade tree; exotic look<br />
NORTHERN GEM 40'/13m 40'/13m 3 Green Yellow n/a Glossy green leaves; orange-yellow fall color<br />
NORTHERN TREASURE 30'/9m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow n/a Hybrid with upright growth; Excellent cold tolerance.<br />
PATMORE GREEN 30'/9m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow n/a Seedless;leafs out earlier & holds leaves longer<br />
PRAIRIE SPIRE 12'/4m 6'/2m 3 Green Yello n/a Seedless; narrow pyramidal form<br />
ASPEN - Populus<br />
QUAKING/TREMBLING 30'/9m 15'/5m 2 Green Yellow Catkins Native tree; leaves tremble in wind; DOES have fluff<br />
SWEDISH COLUMNAR 30'/9m 5'/2m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Narrow columnar tree; vertical accent for small area.<br />
BIRCH - Betula<br />
CUTLEAF WEEPING 30'/10m 20'/6m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Likes lots of water. Bark whitens with age; graceful<br />
EUROPEAN WHITE 30'/10m 20'/6m 3 Green Yellow Catkins As above with round leaves; clump avail; likes water<br />
PAPER 30'/10m 20'/6m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Whitest papery bark of all; clump avail; likes water<br />
RIVER 30'/10m 20'/6m 4 Green Yellow Cones One of the best and fastest-growing birches for shade<br />
TROST'S DWARF 3'/1m 3'/1m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Mounding lace-leaf form; likes full sun<br />
BIRCH-YOUNG’S WEEPING 10'/3m 12'/4m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Small weeping tree; White bark; Likes lots of water.<br />
CARAGANA - SUTHERLAND 13 ft 5 ft 2 Green Yellow Yellow Tall, columnar accent plant<br />
Caragana arborescens 'Sutherland' 4m 1.5 m Attractive in row plantings as a tall hedge<br />
CHERRY - Prunus<br />
EVANS SOUR 12'/4m 10'/3m 3 Green Yellow White Self-pollinating; excellent for eating, jams ,etc<br />
NANKING (tree) 9'/3m 9'/3m 3 Green Yellow Pink Red fruit mid-July; eating; jellies, etc; loved by birds<br />
NORTH STAR 16'/5m 13'/4m 3 Green Yellow White Self pollinating tree with red sour cherries.<br />
CHERRY-PLUM - Prunus - cross between cherry and a plum<br />
COMPASS 12'/4m 10'/3m 2 Green Yellow White Self pollinating; good to pollinate other prunus spp.<br />
SAPALTA 12'/4m 10'/3m 3 Green Yellow White Small purple fruit (1") ripe mid-August<br />
CRABAPPLE - Malus<br />
ALMEY 25'/8m 15'/5m 3 Purple Bronze Rose Pink Red Fruit; upright growth habit<br />
COLUMNAR DOLGO 20'/6m 4'/1m 3 Green Yellow White Columnar form of popular Dolgo variety<br />
COLUMNAR ROSTHERN 20'/6m 4'/1m 3 Green Yellow White Suitable for small yard; Fragrant flowers; small fruit.<br />
DREAMWEAVER 10’/3m 3’/1m 3 Purple Purple Bright Pink Columnar crabapple perfect for today’s smaller yards<br />
DOLGO 25'/8m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow White Wide branching; makes delicious jelly.<br />
ECHTERMEYER WEEPING 15'/5m 6'/3m 3 Reddish Red Purple Requires staking 1st few years; large fruit & blooms
DeCiDUoUS treeS<br />
Names Height Spread Zone<br />
Summer<br />
Foliage<br />
Color<br />
Fall<br />
Foliage<br />
Color<br />
Flower<br />
Color<br />
Features<br />
all trees listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
FUCHSIA GIRL 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Purple Purple Red/Pink Fireblight resistant; Good alternative to 'Royalty'<br />
HOPA 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Yellow Rose Prolific bloomer; Upright growth widens with age.<br />
KELSEY 15'/5m 15'/5m 4 Bronze Orange Red/Purple Bronze foliage. Only double flowering crab.<br />
MAKAMIK 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Bronze Orange Rose Vigorous growing crab with profuse flowers.<br />
MORNING PRINCESS 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Purple Bronze Pink Beautiful deep purple leaves with pink blooms<br />
PINK SPIRE 15'/5m 6'/1.5m 3 Red-purple Bronze Rose-pink Small reddish-purple fruit; narrow habit<br />
PRAIRIE FIRE 15'/5m 15'/5m 4 Green Yellow Red/Purple Very resistant to disease; prolific flowering<br />
RADIANT 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Red-Green Orange Rose New leaves emerge red then turn to green.<br />
ROSY GLO 6'/2m 6'/2m 3 Purple Bronze purple-pink Weeping growth habit; purple-black fruit<br />
ROYAL BEAUTY 12'/4m 8'/2.5m 3 Red-Bronze Purple Red-Pink Dark red fruit does not fall; birds love fruit<br />
ROYALTY 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Purple Orange Red Spectacular purple leaves; dark red flowers in spring<br />
RUDOLPH 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Bronze Orange Red Small tree with very attractive spring growth.<br />
SELKIRK 20'/6m 20'/6m 3 Bronze Orange Pink Red leaves turns bronze-green over summer; hardy<br />
SNOWCAP 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Orange White No fruit; very fragrant spring flowers<br />
SPRING SNOW 20'/6m 20'/6m 3 Green Orange White Does not bear fruit; Tolerates heat well<br />
STRATHMORE 20'/6m 13'/4m 3 Bronze Orange Pink Uniform upright pyramidal grower; Profuse blooms.<br />
THUNDERCHILD 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Purple Orange Pink More uniform than Royalty; fire blight resistant<br />
TINA - TOPGRAFT 5'/1.5m 5'/1.5m 4 Green Yellow White Dwarf shrub grafted on standard; slow-growing<br />
ELM - Ulmus<br />
AMERICAN 50'/15m 30'/9m 3 Green Yellow Samara Umbrella or vase-shaped street or shade tree.<br />
BRANDON 40'/12m 25'/8m 3 Green Yellow Samara Same as American elm but small and compact.<br />
SIBERIAN 25'/8m 20'/6m 2 Green Yellow Samara Quick growing; resistant to Dutch elm disease.<br />
HAWTHORN - Crataegus<br />
SNOWBIRD 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Green White Glossy serrated leaves. Clusters of red fruit.<br />
TOBA 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Green Pink Upright tree with double pink flowers in spring.<br />
LILAC - Syringa<br />
JAPANESE TREE 20'/6m 12'/4m 3 Green Orange Cream-wht Flowers in summer; Deep brown bark color.<br />
IVORY SILK 20'/6m 12'/4m 3 Green Orange Cream-wht Compact selection of Japanese Tree Lilac.<br />
GOLDEN ECLIPSE 15'/5m 10'/3m 2 Green-gold Yellow Cream-wht Leaves edged with gold; resists sunburn<br />
LINDEN- DROPMORE 20'/6m 12'/4m 4 Green Yellow Cream Very fragrant flowers in June; pyramidal form<br />
Tilia flavescens 'Dropmore' borderline species in Calgary<br />
MAPLE<br />
MANITOBA 30'/9m 20'/6m 2 Green Yellow Samara Has furrowed bark and is also called box elder.<br />
KOREAN 15'/5m 10'/3m 4 Green Orange Purple Good replacement for Japanese Maple; beautiful<br />
SENSATION 30'/9m 20'/6m 3 Green Red Male clone so no seeds; slow-growing<br />
MAYDAY<br />
MAYDAY 30'/9m 25'/8m 3 Green Yellow White Showy fragrant flower clusters in May.<br />
Prunus padus commutata Black bitter fruit attracts birds.<br />
MAYDAY - ADVANCE 30 ft 10 ft 3 Green Yellow White Columnar form of Mayday<br />
Punus padus commutata 'Advance' 9m 25m Flowers bloom earlier than standard Maydays<br />
ETHEL MAYDAY 30'/9m 25'/8m 3 Green Yellow Pink Pink flowers for unique spring show<br />
MOUNTAIN ASH - Sorbus<br />
AMERICAN americana 25'/8m 20'/6m 3 Green Orange White Fruit attracts birds; lacy leaves; good fall color<br />
DWARF reducta 1'/30cm 3'/1m 3 Green Orange White Very-low growing; pink berries<br />
COLUMNAR auc. 'Fastigiata 25'/8m 9'/3m 3 Green Orange White Orange-red berries on narrow tree.<br />
EUROPEAN aucuparia 30'/9m 20'/6m 3 Green Orange White Similar to American but larger; Rowan Tree<br />
KOEHNE'S/CHINESE 7'/2m 3'/1m 4 Green Orng/red White White berries; striking fall color<br />
OAKLEAF hybrida 30'/9m 20'/6m 3 Green Yellow White Leaves shaped like oak leaves; red-orange berries<br />
RUSSIAN aucuparia ‘Rossica 25'/8m 12'/4m 3 Green Orange White Selection of European ; Upright columnar growth.<br />
SHOWY decora 20'/6m 15'/5m 2 Green Orange White Hardiest mt. ash with lacy compound leaves.<br />
OAK-BURR 30 ft. 20 ft. 3 Green Yellow Acorns Rare, slow growing, hardy oak for the prairies.<br />
Quercus macrocarpa 9 m. 6 m. Produces acorns. Lobed leaves. Corky bark.<br />
OHIO BUCKEYE 20 ft. 15 ft. 3 Green Yellow Light Large compound leaves.<br />
Aesculus glabra 6 m. 5 m. Yellow Interesting prickly nuts follow flowers.<br />
PEAR Pyrus spp. Two varieties required for cross pollination.<br />
EARLY GOLD 20'/6m 15'/5m 2 Green Amber White Very hardy, disease resistant, fruit like Ure<br />
GOLDEN SPICE 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Amber White Showy spring flowers; fruit good for cook or can<br />
MICHENER 20'/6m 15'/5m 4 Green Amber White Showy spring flowers; mid-sized fruit<br />
URE 20'/6m 15'/5m 3 Green Amber White Sm. sweet, green fruit for canning; showy blooms<br />
PIN CHERRY 16 ft. 10 ft. 3 Green Orange White Small ornamental tree with fragrant flowers.<br />
Prunus pensylvanica 5 m. 3 m. Red cherries in fall attract birds. Reddish bark.<br />
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DeCiDUoUS treeS<br />
Names Height Spread Zone<br />
Summer<br />
Foliage<br />
Color<br />
Fall<br />
Foliage<br />
Color<br />
Flower<br />
Color<br />
Features<br />
all trees listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
PIN CHERRY 15 ft 10 ft 3 Green Red White Large weeping shrub - can be trained to tree form<br />
JUMPING POUND 5 m 3 m Small bright red berries in mid-summer<br />
PLUM<br />
BROOKGOLD 15' 12' 3 Green Amber White Gold skinned, tasty fruit.<br />
Prunus ‘Brookgold’ 5 m. 4 m. Ripens in August. Good fresh or canned.<br />
Cross pollinate with Nanking or Sandcherry.<br />
BROOKRED 15 ft. 12 ft. 3 Green Amber White Red skinned and orange fleshed, larger fruit.<br />
Prunus ‘Brookred’ 5 m. 4 m. Ripens in August. Good for canning.<br />
Cross pollinate with Pembina or Opata.<br />
BOUNTY 15 ft. 12 ft. 3 Green Amber White Hardy and productive tree<br />
Prunus 'Bounty' 5 m. 4 m. Sour fruit very good for preserves<br />
OPATA 15ft. 12 ft. 3 Green Amber White Greenish-purple skinned and green fleshed fruit.<br />
Prunus ‘Opata’ 5 m. 4 m. Ripens in August. Good for eating fresh and jelly.<br />
Pollinates with Brookred or Pembina.<br />
PEMBINA 15 ft. 12 ft. 3 Green Amber White Purple skinned,orange fleshed, larger fruit.<br />
Prunus 'Pembina' 5 m. 4 m. Ripens in Sept. Good for eating fresh.<br />
Pollinates with Brookred or Opata.<br />
TECUMSEH 15 ft. 12 ft. 3 Green Amber White Bears heavy crops of red plums with yellow flesh<br />
Prunus 'Tecumseh' 5 m. 4 m. One of the earliest to ripen.<br />
PLUM - CANADIAN WILD Prunus nigra<br />
PRINCESS KAY 15'/5m 12'/4m 3 Green Amber white Double-flowering; very fragrant<br />
POPLAR Populus spp.<br />
BROOKS #6 50'/15m 40'/12m 2 Green Yellow Catkins Large hardy fast-growing; good for large area<br />
BYLAND GREEN 50'/15m 25'/10m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Fast growing tree for acreage or large area.<br />
NORTHWEST 65'/20m 50'/15m 2 Green Yellow Catkins Largest and fastest growing poplar tree.<br />
TOWER canescens ‘Tower’ 30'/9m 7'/2m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Narrow columnar tree for smaller yards.<br />
TRISTIS 40'/12m 30'/9m 3 Green Yellow Catkins Rapid growing round headed tree.<br />
RUSSIAN OLIVE 20 ft. 12 ft. 4 Silver Yellow Yellow Small tree with attractive silver leaves.<br />
Elaeagnus angustifolia 6 m. 4 m. Fragrant flowers. Drought tolerant.<br />
CHOKECHERRY Prunus virginiana<br />
SCHUBERT 30'/9m 15'/5m 3 Purple Purple White Black cherries; new leaves green but mature purple<br />
BAILEY SELECT 21'/7m 12'/4m 3 Maroon Dk. Purple White Spring foliage matures maroon; black berries<br />
SPUR SCHUBERT 15'/5m 10'/3m 3 Maroon Dk. Purple White Compact Schubert; purple berries<br />
WESTERN CHOKECHERRY 16 ft. 13 ft. 2 Green Yellow White Multi-stemmed, native tree that attract birds.<br />
Prunus virginiana melanocarpa 5 m. 4 m. Black cherries follow fragrant spring flowers.<br />
WILLOW - Salix<br />
GOLDEN alba vitellina 30'/9m 25'/8m 4 Green Yellow Catkins Fast growing; attractive golden stems<br />
LAUREL LEAF pentandra 30'/9m 25'/8m 3 Green Green Catkins Fast growing; glossy leaves; water-loving<br />
SILVER/WHITE alba sericea 35'/10m 20'/6m 3 Silver Silver Catkins Fast growing ; silver summer foliage; likes water
SHrUB fAVoriteS<br />
Azalea/Rhododendron (Rhododendron spp.)<br />
These compact shrubs grow in an open, upright fashion.<br />
The leathery, glossy leaves are dark green in color.<br />
The fully double clusters of flowers, produced in late<br />
May or early June, are available in a number of colors,<br />
depending on variety. Azaleas and Rhododendrons require<br />
a partially shaded, sheltered location and damp,<br />
acidic soil. Winter protection is recommended. Look for<br />
the University of Finland varieties of Rhododendrons<br />
like Helsinki, Haaga, and Mikelli. Good azaleas are the<br />
Northern Lights and Orchid Lights series.<br />
Caragana (Caragana spp.)<br />
These fine-textured, drought-resistant shrubs come in<br />
many forms from upright pyramidal to grafted weeping<br />
and dwarf compact. They all produce bright yellow<br />
pea-like flowers in June followed by pea-like pods<br />
which ‘explode’ when ripe. Common caragana is good<br />
mainly for tall hedges or windbreaks. Fern leaf varieties<br />
grow in an upright, weeping fashion with very narrow<br />
light green leaves. Globe and pygmy caraganas are<br />
compact, upright, and spreading and occasionally are<br />
grafted to upright forms for specimen or accent shrubs.<br />
Also grafted are Walker’s Weeping Caraganas which<br />
are formal, fine textured, and highly weeping. Very<br />
alkaline tolerant.<br />
Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster spp.)<br />
These vigorously growing, upright, and spreading<br />
shrubs are dense and full in their growth habit. The<br />
glossy, dark green leaves form right to the base of the<br />
plant and turn a bright orange-red color in the early fall<br />
in Peking Cotoneasters. Purple-black berries follow the<br />
inconspicuous white flowers. These very hardy shrubs<br />
are widely used as a hedge plant. European Cotoneasters<br />
have dark green leaves with wooly undersides and<br />
duller fall color but do well in shadier locations.<br />
Dogwood (Cornus spp.)<br />
The dogwood varieties that do well in Southern Alberta<br />
are grown primarily for foliage in the summer and as a<br />
winter color specimen due to their attractive bark. Most<br />
grow in rounded upright fashion with inconspicuous<br />
flowers followed by colored berries in fall. Variegated<br />
forms, those bearing leaves with white or yellow mixed<br />
with green, are <strong>Golden</strong> Variegated, Siberian Variegated,<br />
and Silver-Leafed. Dogwood good for winter color<br />
are Isanti, Kesselring, Red Osier, and Yellow-Twigged.<br />
Varieties that have prominent berries are Isanti, Red<br />
Osier, and Siberian Coral.<br />
Double Flowering Plum (Prunus triloba ‘Multiplex’)<br />
These attractive shrubs grow in an upright spreading<br />
fashion. The three-lobed leaves are dark green<br />
and create a dense, full shrub. The fully double, pale<br />
pink flowers are produced in clusters along the stems<br />
before the leaves form in the spring. These shrubs<br />
are one of the most popular large flowering shrubs<br />
available. These shrubs will adapt to shady spots<br />
but flower and grow best in bright, sunny locations.<br />
(Pictured above)<br />
Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.)<br />
These coarse textured shrubs grow in an upright balllike<br />
fashion. The large oval leaves are green in color.<br />
Annabelle Hydrangea bears large, flat clusters of white<br />
flowers that are showy and long lasting. Pee Gee Hydrangeas<br />
are more open in form and produces pinkish<br />
flowers in large, pyramidal clusters. Hydrangea Endless<br />
Summer, is the first Hydrangea macrophylla that<br />
blooms on both old and new wood, for large colorful<br />
flower mops, virtually all season long. Endless Summer<br />
can flower repeatedly on new wood, so you can<br />
be confident that regardless of whether the plant dies<br />
back to the crown or is trimmed at the wrong time, you’ll<br />
still get wonderful flowers that grow all season. Plant<br />
hydrangea in heavy soil in shady or partially shady,<br />
sheltered locations.<br />
Potentilla (Potentilla spp.)<br />
These fine textured shrubs grow in an upright, compact,<br />
naturally rounded form. The compound leaves<br />
are a light green color. The bright single yellow, white,<br />
pink, or red flowers vary in shade and intensity depending<br />
on the variety. These hardy native shrubs<br />
are popular since they produce flowers throughout<br />
the growing season. Plant potentillas in a sunny or<br />
partially shaded location. Varieties commonly available<br />
are Abbotswood, Coronation Triumph, Goldfinger, Pink<br />
Beauty, and Red Robin.<br />
Spirea (Spiraea spp.)<br />
There are a wide variety of these popular accent<br />
shrubs. Most grow in a low, mounding or spreading<br />
fashion. Additionally, many produce beautiful flowers<br />
in the early summer. Bridal Wreath spirea feature white<br />
blossoms cascading along arched branches. Frobelli<br />
and Anthony Waterer both sport light red flowers in<br />
flat-topped clusters. Goldmound spireas have coarsely<br />
toothed leaves in a lime-green color with small lightpink<br />
flowers. Please see our shrub tables for further<br />
varieties. Plant in sun or partial sun.<br />
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SHrUBS yoUr qUeStionS<br />
Q: Why do my lilacs only have a few flowers each<br />
year? I water, fertilize, and shape them every year,<br />
and the foliage looks nice and healthy.<br />
A:Lilacs are often pruned too late, and this will remove<br />
the flower buds for next years crop of flowers. The<br />
proper time to prune lilacs, forsythia, double flowering<br />
plum, nanking cherries, and any other shrubs that<br />
flower on old wood is right after flowering. You do this<br />
because these shrubs set the next years flower buds<br />
soon after they are finished flowering.<br />
Q: What are the best shrubs to use for a hedge<br />
between houses?<br />
A: The most consistent and true hedge plant in the<br />
Calgary area is the cotoneaster. It’s not only very dense<br />
it will also provide a fall colour, and a great screen for<br />
a hedge up to 6-7’. If you are looking for something<br />
taller caragana is the best shrub to use for hedges 7’or<br />
more. You can also use most other types of shrubs,<br />
but they will not give you a manicured look like<br />
cotoneasters.<br />
Q: I have a bad time with powdery mildew on my<br />
shrubs...<br />
A: This is a problem for many gardeners, especially for<br />
plants that get more shade. The best ways to combat<br />
this problem is to maintain proper pruning practices<br />
to allow more air movement and sunlight within and<br />
between plants. Watering is also best done in the<br />
morning to ensure that leaves do not stay wet for a<br />
long period of time. It is best if possible to keep the<br />
water off the leaves altogether. Most fungicides do<br />
work if applied in the early stages of the disease. If<br />
the problem becomes out of control pruning of infected<br />
leaves is useful.<br />
Q: I enjoy growing and harvesting fruit. What can I grow<br />
other than raspberries, strawberries, and saskatoon<br />
berries?<br />
A: There are many bush fruits that do quite well in our area.<br />
These include gooseberry, currant, sour cherry, nanking<br />
cherry, cranberry, and grape. Plant in well-drained rich<br />
clay loam and mulch with grass clippings, bark chips,<br />
or chopped straw to conserve moisture and maintain a<br />
cool soil temperature. Grapes should be planted in a very<br />
sheltered south-facing location in order for them to get the<br />
necessary sunlight and make it through the winter. Ensure<br />
that your plants are well watered before going into winter<br />
as this will help them survive the cold weather.<br />
Q: Do plants such as azaleas, rhododendrons, and<br />
hydrangeas grow in this area?<br />
A: Yes they do grow in this area, however they cannot just<br />
be planted and left alone as many of the hardier plants<br />
such as potentilla. Due to our extreme low and fluctuating<br />
temperatures in winter these plants must be protected.<br />
Take advantage of the insulating properties of snow by<br />
planting them in an area of your garden that will get a lot of<br />
snow. If this is not feasible mulch with dry leaves or straw<br />
and always water before winter to help with cold weather<br />
survival. East exposure is the best location for these plants<br />
if you are going to try them. That protects them from the<br />
southwest chinook winds or the burning north winds in<br />
the winter.
SHrUBS PiCtUreS<br />
Fruit on American Cranberry Azalea Wayfaring Tree<br />
Cranberry Dwarf American Forsythia<br />
Nanking Cherry<br />
Waterton Mockorange<br />
Abbotswood Potentilla<br />
Goldflame Spirea<br />
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cherry bomb<br />
emerald carousel ruby carousel golden nugget rose glow sunsation<br />
SHrUBS BArBerry<br />
Berberis thunbergii<br />
After a 30-year absence Barberry has finally returned<br />
to Canada! This beautiful plant makes an excellent<br />
low hedge, barrier planting, single shrub accent, or<br />
contrast plant. When first planted water well until<br />
the shrub is well established. Do not let barberries<br />
dry out in the first few weeks following transplanting.<br />
Once the barberry is established begin to water as<br />
required.<br />
Cherry Bomb<br />
• compact branches with deep crimsonfoliage<br />
• bright red berries in fall and winter<br />
• grows approximately 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide<br />
Sunsation<br />
• compact dwarf golden barberry<br />
• good for colour contrast<br />
• keep out of full sun - morning or filtered sun only<br />
• grows approximately 3-4 feet tall and wide<br />
Rose Glow<br />
• graceful arching branch rose-red glow over mottled white and<br />
green spring foliage<br />
• bright red berries in fall and winter<br />
• grow approximately 4 feet tall and 4 feet wide<br />
<strong>Golden</strong> Nugget<br />
• compact dwarf golden barberry<br />
• keep out of full sun - filtered or morning sunlight only<br />
• grows approximately 12 inches tall and 18 inches wide<br />
Ruby Carousel<br />
• excellent hedge, accent or barrier plant with thorny stems<br />
• superb red colour and uniform habit<br />
• prefers moist, well-drained soil<br />
• grows approximately 4 feet tall and 4 feet wide<br />
Emerald Carousel<br />
• excellent hedge, accent or barrier plant with arching thorny stems<br />
• The foliage is green but turns dark red to purple in the fall<br />
• prefers moist, well-drained soil<br />
• grows approximately 5 feet tall and 5 feet wide
SHrUBS all<br />
Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage<br />
Color<br />
Flower<br />
Color<br />
Features<br />
shrubs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
AMUR MAPLE - RED RHAPSODY 15 ft 15 ft » 3 Green Red Brilliant red fall colour; very hardy<br />
Acer ginalla 'Red Rhapsody' 5m 5m Small, fragrant yellowish flowers in spring<br />
ARROWOOD 7 ft. 5 ft. » 4 Green White Showy umbrella-shaped flower clusters in<br />
Viburnum dentatum 2 m. 1.5 m. spring. Attractive autumn red leaf color.<br />
ASHLEAF or FALSE SPIREA 7 ft. 7 ft. 2 Green Cream Spreading shrub which will grow in any<br />
Sorbaria sorbifolia 2 m. 2 m. White landscape. Lacy foliage produces plumes of<br />
flowers.<br />
AZALEA 3 ft. 3 ft. » Plant in sheltered area in moist peaty soil<br />
Rhododendron Lights Varieties 1 m. 1 m.<br />
LEMON LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green Red/OR Red-orange flowers with a delicate fragrance<br />
GOLDEN LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green Gold Gold double flower clusters in late spring.<br />
MANDARIN LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green Orange Orange double flower clusters in late spring.<br />
ORCHID LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green Purple Purple double flower clusters in late spring.<br />
ROSY LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green Pink Pink double flower clusters in late spring.<br />
WHITE LIGHTS 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green White White double flower clusters in late spring.<br />
BARBERRY Berberis thunbergii<br />
BURGUNDY CAROUSEL 3'/1m 3'/1m » 4 Purple Yellow Spreadng variety with drooping foliage<br />
CHERRY BOMB 3'/1m 3'/1m » 4 Red/Purp Yellow Compact variety; slow growing<br />
EMERALD CAROUSEL 5'/1.6m 5'/1.6m » 4 Green Yellow Arching foliage; red berries; bright fall color<br />
GOLDEN NUGGET 1'/0.3m 1.5'/0.5m » 4 Gold Yellow Compact, slow-growing; orange fall cololr<br />
ROSE GLOW 4'/1.3m 4'/1.3m » 4 Rose-pink Yellow Mottled rose-pink foliage matures deep red-purple<br />
ROYAL BURGUNDY 3'/1m 3'/1m » 4 Purple Yellow Dwarf rounded form; black-red in fall<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
RUBY CAROUSEL 3'/1m 3'/1m » 4 Rose-pink Yellow Mottled rose-pink foliage matures deep red-purple<br />
SUNSATION 3'/1m 3'/1m » 4 Gold Yellow Compact; new growth green-gold matures gold<br />
BLUEBERRIES - see our bush fruit section<br />
BROOM<br />
DWARF -Genista lydia 2'/0.6m 3'/1m 4 Green Yellow Fine textured sprawling shrub. Flowers in June.<br />
ROYAL GOLD - Genista tinctoria 3'/1m 3'/1m 4 Green Yellow Flowers in tall conical panicles on new growth<br />
BUFFALOBERRY - RUSSET 10 ft 7 ft 2 Green Yellow Hardy native, nitrogen-fixing shrub; drought<br />
Sheperdia canadensis 3m 2m tolerant. Sour yellow-orange fruit popular with<br />
birds<br />
BUFFALOBERRY-SILVER 10 ft. 7 ft. 2 Silver Yellow Hardy native, drought resistant, spiny shrub.<br />
Sheperdia argentea 3 m. 2 m. Red berries on female plants.<br />
BURNING BUSH - DWARF WINGED 6 ft. 10 ft. » 4 Green Flaming red fall color<br />
Euonymous alata compacta 2 m. 3 m. Excellent for small shrub beds and hedges<br />
BURNING BUSH -TURKESTAN 1.5 ft. 3 ft. » 2 Green Pink Low sprawling shrub with linear leaves.<br />
Euonymus nanus 'Turkestanica' 0.5 m. 1 m. Rose fall foliage color appears to be burning.<br />
CARAGANA » 2 Green Yellow Siberian pea-shrub. Drought tolerant.<br />
Caragana arborescens var. Excellent hedge, shelterbelt or windbreak.<br />
COMMON 13'/4m 7'/2m 2<br />
FERNLEAF - 'Lorbergii' 13'/4m 10'/3m 2 Green Yellow Lacy leaves on this graceful plant.<br />
SUTHERLAND 13'/4m 5'/1.5m 2 Green Yellow Tall, columnar, accent plant.<br />
WALKER'S WEEPING 5'/1.5m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Fine lacy foliage hangs from weeping branches.<br />
WEEPING - 'Pendula' 7'/2m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Weeping, grafted variety with oval leaflets.<br />
CARAGANA-GLOBE 3 ft. 3 ft. » 2 Green Yellow Globe-shaped shrub that requires no pruning.<br />
Caragana frutex 'Globosa' 1 m. 1 m. One of the woody plants of yr. in 1996, 97 & 98.<br />
CARAGANA-PYGMY 3 ft. 5 ft. » 2 Green Yellow Spiny shrub with spring flowers.<br />
Caragana pygmaea 1 m. 1.5 m. Useful armed hedge plant for dry area.<br />
CHERRY - EVANS 12'/4m 9'/3m 3 Green White Excellent fruiting type; fruit bright red<br />
Prunus cerasus Rose Cherry a dark brown variety also available.<br />
CHERRY-MONGOLIAN 3 ft. 3 ft. 3 Green White White flowers and glossy green leaves.<br />
Prunus fruticosa 1 m. 1 m. Red sour cherries for jelly.<br />
CHERRY-NANKING 10 ft. 7 ft. 2 Green Light Red edible cherries are great for jelly.<br />
Prunus tomentosa 3 m. 2 m. Pink Our most popular large flowering shrub.<br />
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SHrUBS<br />
Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage<br />
Color<br />
Flower<br />
Color<br />
all shrubs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Sun<br />
Features<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
CHERRY - NANKING 'Alba' 10 ft 7 ft 2 Green Light White-fruiting variety<br />
Prunus tomentosa 'Alba' 3 m 2 m pink Fruit excellent for jelly; popular with birds<br />
CHERRY - NANKING 'Lee's Black' 10 ft 7 ft 2 Green light Black-fruiting variety<br />
Prunus tomentosa 'Lee's Black' 3 m 2m pink Good for jellies; popular with birds<br />
CHERRY PRINSEPIA 5 ft. 3 ft. 2 Green Yellow Spiny hardy shrub for the Prairies with red fruit.<br />
Prinsepia sinensis 1.5 m. 1 m. Useful as an armed barrier plant.<br />
CHERRY-WESTERN SAND 3 ft. 3 ft. 3 Green White Olive-green leaves and black sour cherries.<br />
Prunus besseyi 1 m. 1 m. Sprawling shrub is used as late plum pollinator.<br />
CHOKECHERRY - AUTMUN MAGIC 5 ft. 3 ft. 3 Green White Abundant edible black cherrries attract birds in fall<br />
Aronia melanocarpa 1.5 m. 1 m. Red fall color<br />
COTONEASTER<br />
HEDGE OR PEKING - acutifolia 7'/2m 5'/1.5m 2 Green pink Hedge plant; leaves turn red in fall, very popular<br />
CENTENNIAL - integerrimus 8'/2.5m 8'/2.5m » 3 Green pink Arching branches; prefers moist areas<br />
CRANBERRY - Viburnum opulus varieties<br />
COMPACT EUROPEAN 8'/2.5m 8'/2.5m » 2 Green White Standard cultivar; red fruit; Densely flower & fruit<br />
EUROPEAN DWARF 2'/.6m 2'/.6m » 3 Green Sterile Dwarf shrub for shaded, moist area; purple fall<br />
color<br />
CRANBERRY - Viburnum trilobum varieties Suitable for shaded moist areas.<br />
AMERICAN HIGHBUSH 10'/3m 7'/2m » 2 Green White Green lobed leaves turn red in the fall.<br />
BAILEY COMPACT 5'/1.5m 2'/1m » 2 Green White Compact shrub with colorful red fall foliage.<br />
DWARF AMERICAN 3'/1m 3'/1m » 2 Green White Edible red berries in summer; red fall foliage<br />
CRANBERRY - WENTWORTH 10 ft. 7 ft. » 3 Green White Prolific bloomer and heavy fruit producer<br />
Viburnum spp. 3 m. 2 m. Red fall color<br />
CURRANT-ALPINE 5 ft. 5 ft. » 2 Green Green Small green flowers and lobed leaves.<br />
Ribes alpinum 1.5 m. 1.5 m. Used for mass planting.<br />
CURRANT- BUSH FRUIT VARIETIES - see our bush fruit section<br />
CURRANT-GOLDEN 5 ft. 5 ft. » 3 Green Gold- Fragrant flowers in spring; good for hedging<br />
Ribes aureum 1.5 m. 1 m. Yellow Dark berries are good for jelly.<br />
DOGWOOD - Cornus alba varieties<br />
BUD'S YELLOW 7'/2m 7'/2m » 3 Green wht/ylw Beautiful yellow twigs for winter colour<br />
GOLDEN VARIEGATED - 'Gouchaultii' 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 3 Green White Variegated green and gold leaves on red stems.<br />
GREY 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 3 Green White Smooth light-grey bark; moist, well-drained soil<br />
IVORY HALO 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 3 Green White Bright red stems and silver variegated leaves<br />
KESSELRING 5'/1.5m 5'/1.5m » 3 Green White Deep purple stems are outstanding in winter.<br />
PRAIRIE FIRE 6'/2m 4'/1.6m » 2 Gold White Beautiful red foliage in fall.<br />
SIBERIAN 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 3 Green White Vivid red stems in winter; white berries attract birds<br />
SIBERIAN VARIEGATED 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 3 Grn/Wht White Foliage has red fall color. Bluish berries.<br />
SILVER VARIEGATED 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 3 Grn/Wht White Very popular foliage plant for color contrast.<br />
DOGWOOD - Cornus sericea varieties<br />
ISANTI 3'/1m 3'/1m » 3 Green White Compact selection of Red Osier dogwood.<br />
KELSEY 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m » 3 Green White Dwarf selection of Red Osier dogwood.<br />
RED OSIER 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 3 Green White Red stems for winter color; shrub spreads by<br />
stolons.<br />
ELDER<br />
BLACK BEAUTY 6'/2m 6'/2m 4 Black Pink Striking new variety - black foliage & pink blooms!<br />
BLACK LACE 7’/2m 6’/2m 4 Black Pink Japanese Maple-like leaves, New Product!<br />
GOLDEN 7'/2m 5'/1.5m 3 Gold White <strong>Golden</strong> yellow foliage color in summer and fall.<br />
GOLDEN PLUME- 'Plumosa Aurea' 7'/2m 5'/1.5m 3 Gold Cream <strong>Golden</strong> yellow, deeply serrated leaves.<br />
GUINCHO PURPLE 10'/3m 7'/2m 3 purple Cream Foliage is especially striking when grown in full sun<br />
MADONNA 10'/3m 7'/2m 3 white and Cream Compact plant with white and dark green foliage<br />
RED 10'/3m 7'/2m 3 Green Cream Serrated green leaflets; fruit used for jelly/wine.<br />
SUTHERLAND CUTLEAF 7'/2m 7'/2m 3 <strong>Golden</strong> Cream <strong>Golden</strong> yellow dissected leaves; good contrast<br />
FORSYTHIA-NORTHERN GOLD 5 ft. 3 ft. » 3 Green Yellow Profusion of yellow flowers early in spring.<br />
Forsythia ovata 'Northern Gold' 1.5 m. 1 m.
SHrUBS<br />
Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage<br />
Color<br />
GOOSEBERRY- see our bush fruit section<br />
Flower<br />
Color<br />
all shrubs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Sun<br />
Features<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
HONEYSUCKLE<br />
ALBERT REGAL 3'/1m 3'/1m 3 Blu/Grn Purple Fragrant flowers then blue berries; narrow leaves<br />
ARNOLD RED 10'/3m 5'/1.5m » 3 Green Dark Red Dark red fruit follow dark red fragrant flowers.<br />
SWEETBERRY 5'/1.5m 3'/1m 3 Green White Compact shrub with shredding bark; fruit edible.<br />
DWARF BUSH - Diervilla lonicera<br />
HYDRANGEA<br />
3'/1m 3'/1m » 3 Green Yellow Compact native North American shrub<br />
ANNABELLE 3'/1m 3'/1m » 3-4 Green White Large, white, flat flower clusters; shady moist area<br />
BLUSHING BRIDE 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m » 4-5 Green White Blooms fade to pink/blue as they age<br />
ENDLESS SUMMER 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m » 3-4 Green Blue/Pink Blooms all summer, good cutflower<br />
PEE GEE 3'/1m 3'/1m » 3-4 Green Lt/Pink Showy, large, pinkish pyramidal flower clusters.<br />
TARDIVA<br />
MOCKORANGE - Philadelphus spp.<br />
7'/2m 7'/2m » 3-4 Green Lt/Pink Blooms later than other panicle hydrangeas<br />
GALAHAD 5'/1.5m 5'/1.5m » 4 Dk Grn White Fragrant single blooms; rounded form<br />
MINIATURE SNOWFLAKE 3'/1m 3'/1m » 4 Green White Fragrant double blooms; compact rounded form.<br />
MINNESOTA SNOWFLAKE 5'/1.5m 3'/1m » 3 Green White Fragrant flowering shrub; Double white in summer.<br />
SNOWBELLE 4'/1.3m 4'/1.3m 4 Green White Fragrant double white blooms; very adaptable.<br />
VIRGINAL 8'/3m 4'/1.5m » 4 Green White Double, white very fragrant flowers; needs pruning<br />
WATERTON 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 2 Green White Hardy Mockorange from Waterton Park in AB.<br />
NANNYBERRY 10 ft. 7 ft. » 3 Green White Glossy green foliage turns bright red in fall.<br />
Viburnum lentago<br />
NINEBARK - Physocarpus spp.<br />
3 m. 2 m. Flowers turn into clusters of black berries.<br />
DART'S GOLD 3'/1m 3'/1m 3 <strong>Golden</strong> White Deep pink fruit in late summer; Compact shrub<br />
DIABOLO 7'/2m 5'/1.5m » 3 Purple White Flowers in summer; Strong, upright growth.<br />
GOLDEN 5'/1.5m 3'/1m 3 <strong>Golden</strong> White <strong>Golden</strong> yellow colorful foliage.<br />
NUGGET 5'/1.5m 4/1.3m 3 <strong>Golden</strong> White Foliage turns lime green as season progresses<br />
SUMMER WINE 4'/1.3m 6'/1.6m 3 Bronze White New compact form;good for contrast w/gold shrub<br />
PLUM-DOUBLE FLOWERING 7 ft. 5 ft. 3 Green Pink Emergence of flowers signifies spring arrival.<br />
Prunus triloba 'Multiplex'<br />
POTENTILLA<br />
2 m. 1.5 m. Spectacular pink double flowers before leaves.<br />
ABBOTSWOOD 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green White Most popular white flowering potentilla.<br />
CORONATION TRIUMPH 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Longest blooming period of all potentilla.<br />
GOLD DROP 2'/0.6m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Larger yellow flowers on this compact shrub.<br />
GOLDFINGER 5'/1.5m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Popular and largest yellow flowering potentilla.<br />
GOLD STAR 2'/0.6m 3'/1m 2 Green <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Golden</strong> yellow flowers on this dwarf shrub.<br />
JACKMAN 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Very durable; good for xeriscaping<br />
KATHERINE DYKES 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Creamy yellow flowers on this old standby.<br />
MANGO TANGO 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Golden</strong> yellow blooms; New variety!<br />
MOONLIGHT 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Light yellow flowers with woolly foliage.<br />
ORANGE WHISPER 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green Orange Orange flowers on this uniform mounded shrub.<br />
PINK BEAUTY 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green Pink Double pink flowers on this mounding shrub.<br />
PINK QUEEN 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green Pink Very light pink flowers<br />
RED ACE 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m 3 Green Red Red-yellow flowers on this compact shrub.<br />
RED ROBIN 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m 3 Green Red- Hardier selection of Red Ace retains color better.<br />
SNOWBIRD 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m 3 Green White 80% of the flowers double; hardy, compact<br />
SNOWFLAKE 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green White Beautiful white blooms<br />
SUNSET 2'/0.6m 3'/1m 2 Green Orange Brick orange flowers simulate sunset.<br />
SUTTER'S GOLD 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m 3 Green Yellow Large creamy yellow flowers<br />
TANGERINE 3'/1m 3'/1m 2 Green Amber Amber flowers on this spreading shrub.<br />
YELLOW BIRD 2'/0.6m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Bright yellow flowers on this compact shrub.<br />
YELLOW GEM 1.5'/0.5m 3'/1m 2 Green Yellow Bright yellow flowers on this spreading shrub.<br />
RASPBERRY - please see our bush fruit section<br />
RHODODENDRON<br />
ALBUM 3'/1m 3'/1m » 3 Evergreen White White flowers early spring; Very hardy<br />
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SHrUBS<br />
Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage<br />
Color<br />
Flower<br />
Color<br />
all shrubs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Sun<br />
Features<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
BOURSALT 3'/1m 3'/1m » 3 Evergreen Purple light purple flower in early spring; Compact growth<br />
CLOUDLAND 2'/0.6m 2'/0.6m » 4 Evergreen Purple Funnel-shaped blooms; tiny, aromatic leaves<br />
RHODODENDRON - FINNISH VAR. 5'/1.5m 5'/1.5m » 3 Evergreen varies Very hardy Finnish cultivars<br />
'Haaga' pink Round crowns; upright habit<br />
'Hellikki' purple purple-red flowers fade; buds covered in down<br />
'Helsinki University' pink upright growth habit; red-tinged new growth<br />
'Mikkeli' white dark-green foliage; blooms midsummer<br />
''Peter Tigerstedt' white flowers have dark patches<br />
'Pohjola's Daughter' pink violet-red flower buds; white, blotched flowers<br />
NORTHERN STARBURST 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4-5 Evergreen Pink Ruffled blooms with yellowish center<br />
PJM 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Evergreen Pink Trumpet shaped blooms early in spring; hardiest<br />
PJM COMPACT 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Evergreen Pink Compact version of above plant; Likes acidic soil.<br />
NOVA ZEMBLA 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m » 4 Evergreen Lavender Very hardy variety with lavender -red blooms<br />
RAMAPO 2’/0.6m 2’/0.6m » 4-5 Evergreen Blue Pale violet-blue flowers;New growth is blue-green<br />
ROSEUM 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4-5 Evergreen Pink Rosy-lilac flowers fade to pink;large green leaves<br />
ROSE DAPHNE - Daphne cneorum<br />
CAROL MACKI 2’/0.6m 3’/1m » 4 Green/cream Pink Beautiful variegated leaves; Excellent for rock<br />
gardens<br />
ROSE DAPHNE 1’/0.3m 2’/0.6m » 4 Evergreen Pink Flowers early spring; good for areas insulated by<br />
snow.<br />
RUSSIAN ALMOND 5 ft. 5 ft. 3 Green Pink Plum-like, fuzzy almonds.<br />
Prunus tenella 1.5 m. 1.5 m. Small shrub for mass planting.<br />
RUSSIAN OLIVE 16 ft. 13 ft. 3-4 Silver Yellow Outstanding silvery foliage and fragrant flowers.<br />
Eleagnus angustifolia 5 m. 4 m. Large multi-stemmed shrub small specimen tree.<br />
SALTBUSH (Russian Salt Tree) 6’/2m 6’/2m 3 silver-grey purple- Deep penetrating roots; tolerates saline soils<br />
Halimodendron halodendron white Reproduces from seeds and from roots.<br />
SASKATOON - see our bush fruit section<br />
SANDCHERRY - PURPLE-LEAF 7 ft. 5 ft. 3 Purple Light Spectacular purple foliage on this accent plant.<br />
Prunus cistena 2 m. 1.5 m. Pink Most popular shrub for color contrast.<br />
SEA BUCKTHORN 13 ft. 10 ft. 2 Silver Yellow Thorny shrub with silver linear leaves,orange<br />
Hippophae rhamnoides 4 m. 3 m. berries. Drought tolerant and hardier than Russian<br />
olive.<br />
SNOWBALL 7 ft. 5 ft. » 3 Green White Showy snowball-shaped flower clusters in spring.<br />
Viburnum opulus roseum/sterilis 2 m. 1.5 m. Suitable shrub for shaded moist area.<br />
SNOWBERRY 3 ft. 3 ft. » 2 Green Pink Native hardy, small shrub.<br />
Symphoricarpos albus 1 m. 1 m. White berries in winter attract wildlife.<br />
SPINDLE TREE 10’/3m 10’/3m » 4 Green Yellow Green branches have corky strips like Burning<br />
Euonymous europaeus Green Bush. Red fall color; flower clusters; showy orange<br />
seeds<br />
SPIRAEA<br />
ANTHONY WATERER 2’/0.6m. 3’/1m » 3 Green Pink Low growing with long blooming season<br />
BILLARDI TRIUMPHANS 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m » 3 Green Pink Large deep-pink flower spikes; Summer blooming<br />
BRIDAL WREATH 7’/2m. 5’/1.5m » 3 Green White Arching branches veiled with white flowers in June.<br />
CRISPA 2’/0.6m 2.5’/0.8m » 3 Grn-Brnz Pink Deeply serated, crinkled leaves;continous blooms<br />
DART’S RED 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Green Red Similar to Anthony Waterer but with darker blooms<br />
FAIRY QUEEN 2’/0.6m 2’/0.6m » 3 Green White Low sprawling shrub with white flowers in June.<br />
FLOWERING CHOICE 1’/30cm 1’/30cm » 3 Green Pink Similar to Little Princess but smaller with larger<br />
flowers<br />
FROEBELLII 3’/1m 3’/1m » 2 Green Pink Similar to Anthony Waterer but hardier and taller.<br />
GARLAND 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Green White Spring blooms; garlands of flowers; fine-textured<br />
foliage<br />
GOLDEN CARPET 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Green Tri-color White, pink, and red flowers on this compact shrub<br />
GREEN CARPET 8”/20cm 1’/30cm » 3 Green Pink Foliage turns red-purple in the fall<br />
GOLDFLAME 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Gold Pink Compact shrub for color contrast in the landscape.<br />
GOLDMOUND 2’/0.6m 3’/1m » 3-4 Gold Pink Compact substitute for Goldflame spirea.
SHrUBS<br />
Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage<br />
Color<br />
Flower<br />
Color<br />
all shrubs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Sun<br />
Features<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
GUMBALL 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Green Pink Compact form of Froebellii; very adaptable<br />
HALWARD’S SILVER 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Green White Compact selection of nipponica species<br />
KOREAN 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Green White Mounding shrub covered with blooms<br />
LITTLE PRINCESS 2’/0.6m 3’/1m » 4 Green Pink Dwarf compact mound shape; Foliage turns dark<br />
red in fall.<br />
MAGIC CARPET 1’/30 cm 3’/1m » 4 Gold, Red Pink Forms a miniature compact mound<br />
MINI SUNGLO 1’/30 cm 2’/0.6cm » 3 Gold Pink Dense dwarf similar to Goldmound<br />
NEON FLASH 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Green Pink Similar to Anthony Waterer with darker blooms<br />
RENAISSANCE 4’/1.3m 4’/1.3m » 3 Green White Graceful arching display of white flowers in spring<br />
SHIROBANA 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Green Pnk/Wht Serrated lacy foliage with pink, red&white flowers.<br />
SNOWMOUND 4’/1.3m 4’/1.3m » 3 Green White Small, blue-green leaves; fine white flowers in<br />
mid-summer<br />
SNOWHITE 5’/1.5m 3’/1m » 2 Green Pink Abundant flowers along arching branches in June.<br />
SPARKLING CARPET 10”/25cm16”/40cm » 3 Lime/Gold Pink Fine spreading shrub; nice fall color; few blooms<br />
THOR 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Green White Deep green, leaves different from other spiraeas<br />
THREE-LOBED 3’/1m 3’/1m » 2 Green White Graceful arching branches; three-lobed leaves<br />
WHITE SWAN 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Green White Ball-shaped shrub with pure white flowers in June.<br />
SUMAC - Rhus spp.<br />
CUTLEAF 7’/2m. 7’/2m. 3 Green Yellow Bright fall coloration; flower panicles last all winter<br />
CUTLEAF SMOOTH 7’/2m. 7’/2m. 3 Green Yellow Smooth bark and divided, lacy leaves;Red fallfruit.<br />
GRO-LOW 1’/ 0.6m 7’/2m » 4 Green Yellow Stems aromatic when bruised<br />
THREE-LEAF 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m 3 Green Yellow Shiny green, oak leaf-shaped foliage; orange-red<br />
berry<br />
STAGHORN 10’/3m 5’/1.5m 3 Green Green Fern-like foliage. Red fall fruit and foliage.<br />
Xeriscape plant.<br />
TIGER EYES 7’/2m. 7’/2m. 4 Yellow White <strong>Golden</strong> cutleaf variety; new for 2005.<br />
WAYFARING TREE 7 ft. 7 ft. » 3 Gray- White Olive-green, leathery leaves.<br />
Viburnum lantana 2 m. 2 m. Green Fruit turns from red to black.<br />
WAYFARING TREE - MOHICAN 5 ft. 5 ft. » 3 Gray- White Olive-green, leathery leaves. Red to black fruit.<br />
Viburnum lantana ‘Mohican’ 1.5 m. 1.5 m. Green Compact selection of Wayfaring Tree.<br />
WEIGELA - Weigela florida<br />
ALEXANDRIA/WINE & ROSES 4’/1.3m 4’/1.3m » 4 Purple Pink new variety; Leaves are a deep wine purple<br />
CENTENNIAL 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m » 3 Green Pink Pink tubular flowers in June, reblooms again later.<br />
MINUET 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Green Pink/Red Rose tubular flowers in June/reblooms again later.<br />
RED PRINCE 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m » 4 Green Red Red tubular flowers throughout the summer.<br />
RUBY QUEEN 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 reddish Pink Reddish-burgundy foliage; very popular in Europe<br />
WILLOW - Salix spp.<br />
ARCTIC 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Gray-Grn Mound-shaped with linear leaves and purple<br />
stems.<br />
BEBB 10’/3m 10’/3m 3 Gray-Grn Catkins Large multi-stemmed shrub or small tree<br />
BLUE FOX 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Bluish- Upright globe-shaped shrub; Colorful blue-gray<br />
foliage.<br />
COYOTE 12’/4m 12’/4m » 3 Blue-gray Catkins Good in moist areas; good for riverside planting<br />
CREEPING 2’/0.6m 6’/2m » 3 Green Catkins Spreading form good for ground cover<br />
HAKURA NISHIKI 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Pnk/Wht Tricolor pink, white and green leaves.<br />
FLAME 16’/5m. 10’/3m » 3 Green Flaming red-orange bark for winter color.<br />
POLAR BEAR 16’/5m. 6’/2m » 2 Green Catkins Hairy silvery blue foliage, hardy variety.<br />
PUSSY WILLOW - FRENCH 16’/5m 10’/3m » 2 Green Catkins Silvery catkins appear in spring; llikes moist areas<br />
SILVER CREEPING 2’/0.6m 7’/2m » 3 Silver Catkins Creeping shrub with silver-grey foliage<br />
YELLOW 12’/4m 12’/4m » 2 Green Catkins Native species; good for wet areas<br />
WOLF WILLOW 7 ft. 7 ft. 2 Silver Yellow Hardy, native shrub with silvery foliage.<br />
Elaeagnus commutata 2 m. 2 m. Scented spring flowers. Drought tolerant.<br />
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LArGe CALiPer treeS<br />
AVAiLABLe in Store noW<br />
Located west creek side of the store.
SmALL frUit all<br />
Size<br />
Names Fruit Color Height/ Sun/ Fruit Features/Uses<br />
Spread Shade<br />
BLUEBERRIES: sun/part shade<br />
BLUECROP dark blue 4/4ft most widely planted blueberry on earth<br />
BLUEJAY medium blue 4/4ft large, firm berries with moderate to high yield<br />
BLUERAY powder blue 4/4ft mid-season, large berries<br />
CHIPPEWA light blue 4/4ft medium, very light blue, mid-season berries<br />
NORTHBLUE dark blue 3/3 ft. dark blue, sweet flavored fruit<br />
NORTHCOUNTRY sky blue 3/3 ft. mild, sweet, sky blue fruit<br />
NORTHLAND dark blue 4/4 ft. wild berry tasting, dark blue fruit<br />
NORTHSKY sky blue 2/2 ft. hardiest blueberry with sweet, sky blue fruit<br />
PATRIOT medium blue 3/3ft large berries with high yield, excellent flavour<br />
POLARIS light blue 3/3ft best ripening in northern gardens; new variety<br />
CHERRIES: full sun<br />
MONGOLIAN red 3/3 ft. sun sour cherries for jelly<br />
NANKING red 10/10 ft. sun edible cherries great for jelly<br />
CRANBERRY: please see our shrub section<br />
small fruit listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
CURRANTS: sun/partshade<br />
BLACK black 3/3 ft. abundant black fruit for preserves<br />
GOLDEN gold 5/5 ft. ornamental golden fragrant flowers<br />
JOSTA dark red 6/3 ft. cross between black currant and gooseberry<br />
RED LAKE red 3/3 ft. plentiful fruit produced for jelly<br />
WHITE white 3/3 ft. mild flavored fruit for preserves<br />
GOOSEBERRIES: sun/part shade<br />
HINNONMAEKI RED red 3/3 ft. tart red, juicy fruit for preserves<br />
HINNONMAEKI YELLOW green-gold 3/3 ft. tart green, juicy fruit for preserves<br />
PIXWELL green 3/3 ft. productive fruit producer for preserves<br />
GRAPES: sun or part shade<br />
CANADICE red red seedless early variety for all uses<br />
CONCORD blue popular blue variety used for fresh grape juice<br />
INTERLAKEN green golden green seedless grapes to eat fresh<br />
STEUBEN purple bluish-purple fruit used for jelly, juice or wine<br />
VALIANT blue hardiest grape for the prairies used for jelly<br />
RASPBERRIES: full sun<br />
BLACK JEWEL dark purple 5/5 ft. hardy, heavy producer of purple, juicy fruit<br />
BOYNE RED red 5/5 ft. hardy, heavy producer of sweet red berries<br />
CHESTER black 5/5 vigorous, hardy variety; shiny black fruit<br />
HERITAGE RED red 5/5 ft. everbearing producer in September<br />
MEEKER red 5/5ft summer-bearing; medium to large berries<br />
RED KILLARNEY red 5/5ft summer-bearing; deep red sweet fruit<br />
SK RED MAMMOTH red 5/5 ft. hardy, very sweet red berry new from the UofS<br />
SK RED BOUNTY red 5/5 ft. hardy, large red berry new from UofS<br />
YELLOW-FALL GOLD gold-yellow 5/5 ft. new everbearing variety with unique gold fruit<br />
SASKATOONS: full sun<br />
ALTAGLOW white 10/5 ft. new variety with unique white fruit<br />
HONEYWOOD purple 7/5 ft. later large fruit for eating fresh or pies<br />
NORTHLINE purple 7/5 ft. productive fruit producer to eat fresh or pies<br />
PEMBINA purple 10/7 ft. well-known variety with large fruit to eat<br />
REGENT purple 7/5 ft sweet fruit is good for eating fresh or pies<br />
SMOKEY purple 10/7 ft. high yielding variety with mild sweet fruit<br />
THEISSEN purple 10/5 ft. large fruit is good for eating fresh or pies<br />
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LiLAC PHotoS<br />
<strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> Is Proud to be able to Supply you with over 25 varieties of Lilacs including<br />
the following sub-categorys: French Hybrid, Hyacinth, Preston, and Treeform.<br />
For best results plant in a full sun area, fertilize regularly, dead-head old blooms, and don’t<br />
prune till just after flowering. This should ensure lots of blooms,and lots of enjoyment.<br />
Aucuba Leaf Congo Dark Knight<br />
Dwarf Korean<br />
Forrest K. Smith<br />
Miss Kim Montainge<br />
President Grevy<br />
Ludwig Spaeth<br />
President Lincoln<br />
Madame Lemoine<br />
Sarah Sands<br />
Michael Buchner<br />
Persian Pink French Hybrid<br />
Victor Lemoine
LiLACS all<br />
lilacs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage Flower Features/Uses<br />
Color Color<br />
LILAC - BEAUTY OF MOSCOW 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green Pink Very heavy bloomer; double pink flowers<br />
Syringa sp. 3m. 2 m. part shade Good screening plant or feature<br />
LILAC-COMMON 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green Purple Old fashioned favorite with fragrant flowers.<br />
Syringa vulgaris 3 m. 2 m. part shade Has suckering habit but good windbreaks.<br />
LILAC - CONGO 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green Reddish Single, dark red flowers<br />
Syringa sp. 3 m. 2 m. part shade<br />
LILAC-DWARF KOREAN 3 ft. 3 ft. sun or 3 Green Lavender Miniature leaves and flowers good for small<br />
Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’ 1 m. 1 m. part shade yards.<br />
LILAC - MISS ELLEN WILLMOTT 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green White Double white flowers<br />
Syringa sp. 3 m. 2 m. part shade<br />
LILAC-FRENCH-CHARM 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Deep Grafted roots to control suckering.<br />
Syringa vulgaris ‘Charm’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Pink Charming single pink fragrant flowers.<br />
LILAC-FRENCH-CHARLES JOLY 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Reddish Grafted roots to control suckering.<br />
Syringa vulgaris ‘Charles Joly’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Purple Reddish purple, double fragrant flowers.<br />
LILAC-FRENCH-KATHY HAVEMEYER 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Bluish- Grafted roots to control suckering.<br />
Syringa vulgaris ‘Katherine Havemeyer’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Pink Pink double fragrant flowers.<br />
LILAC-FRENCH-LUDWIG SPAETH 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Reddish Grafted roots to control suckering.<br />
Syringa vulgaris ‘Ludwig Spaeth’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Purple Purple single fragrant flowers.<br />
LILAC-FRENCH-MADAME LEMOINE 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green White Grafted roots to control suckering.<br />
Syringa vulgaris ‘Madame Lemoine’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade White double fragrant flowers.<br />
LILAC - FRENCH - MONTAIGNE 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green lavender Double, pale, fragrant flowers<br />
Syringa sp. 3 m. 2 m. part shade Good bloomer<br />
LILAC-FRENCH-PRESIDENT GREVY 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Blue Grafted roots to control suckering.<br />
Syringa vulgaris ‘President Grevy’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Blue double fragrant flowers.<br />
LILAC - FRENCH - PRESIDENT LINCOLN 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Blue Single blue flowers with a lavender tint<br />
Syringa sp. 3 m. 2 m. part shade Heavy bloomer but clusters are small<br />
LILAC-FRENCH-SENSATION 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Purple Grafted roots to control suckering.<br />
Syringa vulgaris ‘Sensation’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade & White Sensational purple flowers with white edges.<br />
LILAC-HYACINTH-ASESSIPPI 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Lavender Earlier and more fragrant blooms than French lilac<br />
Syringa hyacinthiflora ‘Asessipi’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Lavender single flower.<br />
LILAC-HYACINTH-MOUNT BAKER 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green White Earlier and more fragrant blooms than French lilac<br />
Syringa hyacinthiflora ‘Mount Baker’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade White single flowers.<br />
LILAC-HYACINTH-POCAHONTAS 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Deep Earlier and more fragrant blooms than French lilac.<br />
Syringa hyacinthiflora ‘Pocahontas’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Purple Deep purple, single flowers.<br />
LILAC-MISS KIM 5 ft. 3 ft. sun or 3 Green Lavender Larger leaves and later flowering than<br />
Syringa patula ‘Miss Kim’ 1.5 m. 1 m. part shade Korean. Purplish fall foliage.<br />
LILAC - PRESTON - CORAL 7 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green Pink Blooms later than most lilacs<br />
Syringa prestonia ‘Coral’ 2 m. 2 m. part shade Coral pink flowers<br />
LILAC-PRESTON-MISS CANADA 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Pink Vigorous non-suckering shrub.<br />
Syringa prestoniae ‘Miss Canada’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Pink single flowers later than French Lilac.<br />
LILAC-PRESTON-RED WINE 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Pink Vigorous non-suckering shrub.<br />
Syringa prestoniae ‘Red Wine’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Pink single flowers later than French Lilac<br />
LILAC-PRESTON-ROYALTY 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 3 Green Purple Vigorous non-suckering shrub.<br />
Syringa prestoniae ‘Royalty’ 3 m. 2 m. part shade Purple single flowers<br />
LILAC - TINKERBELLE 5-6 ft. 5-6 ft. sun or 3 Green Reddish Wine-red flower buds open in late spring<br />
Syringa sp. 1.5 m. 1.5 m. part shade Similar to dwarf Korean lilac<br />
LILAC-VILLOSA or LATE 10 ft. 7 ft. sun or 2 Green Lavender Hardy, drought tolerant hedge or wind-<br />
Syringa villosa 3 m. 2 m. part shade break. Purple single flowers later than French Lilac.<br />
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eVerGreen<br />
fAVoriteS<br />
Cedars (Arborvitae)<br />
This group of globe-shaped and pyramidal evergreen<br />
shrubs has smooth flat foliage. The color of cedar<br />
foliage is a rich, soft, light green; some varieties have<br />
golden yellow tipped foliage. Globe-shaped cedars<br />
like Brandon or Globe can be used in the landscape<br />
as foundation plants, in groupings to form a mass,<br />
or in combination with other shrubs, trees, perennials,<br />
or annuals. Tall, upright, pyramidal cedars like<br />
DeGroot’s Spire or Emerald can be used as large<br />
foundation, specimen, or accent plants. All cedars<br />
perform best in locations that are sheltered from the<br />
wind and bright winter sun. All cedars require consistently<br />
moist soil conditions to survive.<br />
Junipers<br />
This large group of evergreen shrubs grows in a<br />
low-spreading or upright pyramidal fashion. Juniper<br />
foliage may be scale-like and soft or needle-like<br />
and prickly. Junipers are available in various colors<br />
– shades of yellow, gray, blue, and/or green. Spreading<br />
junipers like Blue Star, Calgary Carpet, or Buffalo<br />
can be very low growing, mounding, arching, or<br />
even vase-shaped (Mint Julep). Spreading junipers<br />
can be used in the landscape as foundation plants<br />
in groupings to form a mass or in combination with<br />
other shrubs, trees, perennials, and/or annuals. Upright<br />
junipers like Cologreen, Scopulorum, or Wichita<br />
Blue grow in a tall, pyramidal form and can be used as<br />
large foundation, specimen, or accent plants. Several<br />
varieties of junipers are available in grafted, staked,<br />
and/or sculptured forms. Most grafted junipers grow<br />
downward to create a weeping, pyramidal form.<br />
Staked junipers are low growing forms in which one<br />
branch has been staked to grow upward in a upright<br />
form; they require constant staking. Sculptured forms<br />
are most often pompon (balls of foliage on the end of<br />
many stems) and are used as specimen plants.<br />
Larch<br />
This group of very hardy, deciduous coniferous trees<br />
form soft green needles in the spring and summer.<br />
In the fall these needles turn golden yellow before<br />
they fall off. These trees prefer moist soil conditions.<br />
The most commonly available variety is the Siberian<br />
Larch (Larix sibirica).<br />
Pines<br />
This large group of evergreen coniferous shrubs and<br />
trees has long needles in bundles of two or five spirally<br />
arranged along the scaly branches. Every few<br />
years in the fall pines lose the needles close to their<br />
trunks and from their lower branches. To keep pine<br />
shrubs and trees compact prune the new growth or<br />
candles back by half each year during the month of<br />
June. Good varieties for Alberta are Scotch, Mugho,<br />
and Bristlecone.<br />
Spruce<br />
This large group of evergreen coniferous shrubs and<br />
trees has short square needles that are borne singly<br />
on scaly branches. Spruce usually have a pyramidal<br />
shape but dwarf rounded forms are also available.<br />
The foliage color varies from dark blue to green. Many<br />
spruce varieties provide a good contrast in the landscape<br />
and are especially attractive during the winter<br />
months. To keep spruce shrubs and trees compact<br />
prune the new growth or candles back by half each<br />
year during June or when growth is fresh.
eVerGreen PHotoS<br />
Columnar Spruce<br />
Mugho Pine<br />
Globe Blue Spruce<br />
Blue Spruce Emerald Green Cedar<br />
Daub’s Frosted Juniper<br />
Calgary Carpet Juniper<br />
Moonglow Juniper<br />
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eVerGreenS all<br />
Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage<br />
Color<br />
Flower<br />
Color<br />
shrubs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Sun<br />
Features<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
CEDAR/ARBORVITAE Thuja occidentalis<br />
BRANDON 13’/4m 5’/1.5m » 3-4 Green Columnar conifer used as a vertical accent; from Brandon,MB.<br />
DANICA 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Green Slow-growing, compact; prefers moist areas; keep out of wind.<br />
DEGROOT’S SPIRE 7’/2m 2’/0.5m » 4 Green Narrow, upright, plant. Suitable as a specimen for a small spot.<br />
EMERALD 13’/4m 5’/1.5m » 4 Emerald Popular emerald green foliage; Pyramidal plant used as a specimen.<br />
GLOBE 7’/2m 7’/2m » 3-4 Dk Green Large, globe-shaped evergreen. Rotund, rounded form.<br />
HOLMSTRUP 7’/2m 3’/1m » 4 Green Upright, compact, conical conifer. Slow-growing shorter variety<br />
LITTLE GEM 3’/1m 4’/1.3m » 4 Green Crumpled foliage holds color in winter; very compact<br />
LITTLE GIANT 3’/1m 3’/1m » 4 Green Popular globe-shaped evergreen.<br />
TECHNY 13’/4m 5’/1.5m » 3 Dark Hardiest cedar for the chinook area. Narrow pyramidal shape.<br />
WAREANA or SIBERIAN 10’/3m 7’/2m » 3-4 Green Broader upright cedar. Robust rugged plant.<br />
FIR<br />
DOUGLAS - Pseudotsuga meniesii 40’/14m 18’/6m 3-4 Green Does best in areas with abundant air moisture<br />
DWARF BALSAM Abies balsamea ‘Nana’ 1’/0.3m 3’/1m » 3 Green Needs protection from summer sun; provide ample water<br />
JUNIPER - SPREADING - Juniperus var.<br />
ALPINE CARPET 8”/20cm 3’/1m 4 Green Good groundcover with dense, soft-textured foliage<br />
ANDORRA - YOUNGSTOWN 2’/0.6m 4’/1.3m » 4 Blue-Green Gray-green foliage turns a lovely purple in winter<br />
ARCADIA 24”/0.5m 3’/1m 2 Med. Green All-purpose; soft foliage.<br />
BAR HARBOR 1’/0.3m 7’/2m » 3 Blue-Green Foliage turns purple in winter; center can open with age<br />
BLUE CHIP 1’/0.3m 7’/2m » 3 Blue Bright blue foliage is retained in winter; popular ground cover.<br />
BLUE DANUBE 3’/1m 7’/2m » 3 Blue-Green Aquamarine bluish-green foliage; spreading selection of Savin.<br />
BLUE PRINCE 1’/0.3m 3’/1m » 3 Blue-Green Provide snowcover in winter for protection; Excellent blue color.<br />
BLUE STAR 1.5’/0.5m 5’/1.5m » 4 Blue Bright blue, star-shaped needles used for color contrast.<br />
BOYKO STARDUST 1.5’/0.5m 5’/1.5m » 4 Bllue-Gold Variegated blue star from Oregon; may burn in full sun.<br />
BROADMOOR 1’/0.3m 7’/2m » 3 Green Bright green foliage. Dense, low, wide, spreading juniper<br />
BUFFALO 1’/0.3m 7’/2m » 3 Green Bright green feathery foliage on this spreader.<br />
CALGARY CARPET 1’/0.3m 5’/1.5m » 3 Green Bright foliage and dense branches. Excellent spreading juniper.<br />
DAUB’S FROSTED 1.5’/0.5m 4’/1.3m » 4 Gold-blue Bluish foliage tipped with gold in good light; needs shelter<br />
EFFUSA 1’/30cm 6’/2m 3 Green New foliage soft-brown matures green; circular spreader<br />
GOLDCOAST/OLD GOLD 3 ‘/1m 5’/1.5m » 4 Gold tip <strong>Golden</strong> foliage on arching branches. Good for color contrast.<br />
GOLD STAR 4’/1.3m 6’/2m 4 Lt. Green Light green foliage on gold branches; sun needed for color<br />
HOLGER 1.5’/0.5m 5’/1.5m » 4 Gold/Blue Compact spreader ; gold tipped blue foliage provides good<br />
contrast.<br />
HUGHES 1’/0.3m 6-8’/2m 3 silver-blue Graceful, arhcing branches; retains foliage colour through the<br />
winter<br />
ICEE BLUE 1’/0.3m 5’1/5m » 3 Blue Impressive icy blue foliage from Illinois.<br />
LIMEGLOW 1.5’/0.3m 4’/1.3m 4 lime-green New variety from Iseli Nursery; bright foliage holds colour well<br />
MINT JULEP/SEA GREEN 3’/1m 7’/2m » 4 Green Dark green foliage; fountain-like form. Best in semi-shaded location.<br />
MOOR-DENSE 1’/0.3m 5’/1.5m » 3 Green Selection of Broadmoor juniper with denser and darker green<br />
needles.<br />
MOTHERLODE 0.5’/0.1m 4’/1.3m 4 Gold <strong>Golden</strong> yellow sport of Wiltonii. New variety from Iseli Nursery<br />
NEW BLUE TAM 2’/0.6m 5’/1.5m » 3 Blue Symmetrical mound shaped spreader. Contrasting blue foliage color.<br />
PRINCE OF WALES 1’/0.3m 7’/2m » 3 Green Lowest growing green spreading juniper from Waterton,Alberta.<br />
SAVIN 3’/1m 7’/2m » 3 Green Original species with scale-like, green foliage. Vase-shaped form<br />
SCANDIA 1’/0.3m 5’/1.5m » 3 Green Sister to Arcadia juniper but smaller and lower growing.<br />
TABLE TOP BLUE 5’/1.5m 7’/2m » 3 Blue Unique upright, flat topped variety. Use as a specimen plant.<br />
TAMARISCIFOLIA 2’/0.6m 7’/2m » 3 Green Symmetrical mound-shaped spreader.<br />
WILTONI - BLUE RUG 6”/0.15m 7’/2m » 3 Blue Lowest growing spreading juniper. Useful as a ground cover.<br />
YUKON BELLE 10”/25cm 4’/1.3m 2 Green Broad spreading and very hardy; good accent<br />
JUNIPER - UPRIGHT - Juniperus var.<br />
COLOGREEN 10’/3m 5’/1.5m » 3 Green Bright foliage on upright juniper.Compact branches and conical form.<br />
GHOST PLANT - ‘Candelabrum’ 9’/3m 6’/2m 3 Blue-Green Rare weeping variety of Rocky Mountain juniper<br />
IDYLLWILD 6’/2m 3’/1m 4 Green Upright dark-green foliage; good as a single specimen or for a hedge<br />
MEDORA 10’/3m 3’/1m » 3 Blue-Green Upright columnar form. Bluish-green foliage.<br />
MOONGLOW 10’/3m 5’/1.5m » 3 Blue Popular upright blue Juniper; similar to Wichita Blue<br />
ROCKY MOUNTAIN 9’/3m 6’/2m 3 Blue-green Native upright variety; good drought tolerance; Dense growth habit.<br />
TOLLESON’S WEEPING 10’/3m 5’/1.5m » 4 Blue-Green Small tree with weeping, graceful branches. Unique specimen plant<br />
WICHITA BLUE 10’/3m 5’/1.5m » 3 Blue Similar to moonglow but finer foliage. Most popular upright<br />
juniper.
eVerGreenS all<br />
Names Height Spread Sunlight Zone Foliage<br />
Color<br />
Features<br />
shrubs listed subject to seasonal<br />
and supplier availability<br />
Sun<br />
Part Shade »<br />
Shade<br />
LARCH-SIBERIAN - Larix sibirica 25’/8m 12’/3.5m » 2 Green Unique deciduous conifer sheds needles in winter. Gold fall foliage.<br />
PINE - Pinus<br />
AUSTRIAN - P. nigra 40’/12m 20’/6m 4 Green Dark green stiff needles; compact growth habit<br />
BRISTLECONE - P. aristata 13’/4m 7’/2m » 2 Green-White Slow growing, unique rugged plant with 5 needles in cluster<br />
LIMBER - P. flexilis 20’/6m 10’/3m 3 Green-Blue Native to foothills; slow grower; dense flexible branching<br />
LODGEPOLE - P. contorta latifolia 35’/10m 10’/3m 4 Green Tall, slender tree with narrow loose crown; native forest tree.<br />
PONDEROSA - Pinus ponderosa 30’/10m 10’/3m » 3 Green Large pyramidal pine; beautiful long needles and cones<br />
SWISS STONE - Pinus cembra 20’/6m 10’/3m » 3 Green Columnar conical conifer. Picturesque pine tree.<br />
PINE - MUGO - Pinus mugo var.<br />
DWARF - P. mugo pumilio 6’/2m 6’/2m » 3 Green More compact than freefrom; prune to keep shape<br />
MOPS 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Green Compact form of mugo; very slow-growing<br />
MUGO - FREEFORM - P. mugo mughus 15’/5m 15’’/5m » 1 Green Popular shrubby pine; Hardiest coniferous evergreen in Calgary.<br />
SLOWMOUND 3’/1m 3’/1m » 2 Green Forms dense mound; slow-growing; good for rock gardens<br />
SWISS MOUNTAIN - P. uncinata 20’/6m 10’/3m » 3 Green Coniferous tree similar to Mugho Pine. Pollution tolerant.<br />
TANNENBAUM 10’/3m 6’/2m » 3 Green Compact pyramidal pine; new interesting variety<br />
VALLEY CUSHION 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Green Uniform compact mounding growth; a Tru-Dwarf variety<br />
WHITE BUD 3’/1m 3’/1m » 3 Green/White White resin in buds in late winter; a Tru-Dwarf variety<br />
PINE - SCOTS - Pinus sylvestris var.<br />
ALBYN PROSTRATA 2’/60cm 8’/2.6m 3 Green Spreading Scots pine; holds color in winter.<br />
SCOTS 40’/13m 30’/10m » 3 Blue-Green Unique orange-brown bark on upper trunk and branches<br />
COLUMNAR - ‘Fastigiata’ 15’/3m 7’/1m 3 Blue-Green Narrow upright form; keep snow off during winter<br />
HILLSIDE CREEPER 1’/30cm 8’/2.6m » 3 Green Low-growing ground-huggging ScotS Pine<br />
RUSSIAN CYPRESS - Microbiota decussata 1’/0.3m 5’/1.5m » 3 Green Rare evergreen with bright green foliage used as<br />
ground cover.<br />
SPRUCE - COLORADO - Picea pungens var.<br />
BAKERI 13’/4m 10’/3m » 2 Deep Blue Long, dark blue needles. Conical conifer.<br />
BLUE - ‘Glauca’ 35’/10m 13’/4m » 2 Blue Selected for blue needle color. Used as a screen, shade, street tree.<br />
BLUE CREEPING - P. pungens procumbens 3’/1m vaires » 3 Blue New creeping variety of Colorado spruce<br />
BOYKO MYSTIQUE varies varies » 3 Blue Irregular growing sport of Colorado Blue; good for specimen.<br />
COLUMNAR BLUE - ‘Fastigiata’ 15’/3m 7’/1m » 3 Blue Popular hardy, columnar narrow, spruce instead of upright juniper<br />
FAT ALBERT 25’/8m 12’/3.5m » 3 Blue Beautiful bright blue spruce. Broader based than Colorado Spruce.<br />
GLOBE BLUE/GREEN - ‘Globosa’ 5’/1.5m 5’/1.5m » 2 Blue-Green Compact, dwarf, slow growing, globe-shaped. Avail. as standard<br />
GREEN 35’/10m 13’/4m » 2 Green Long, rigid needles on pyramidal shape.Use for screening or shelter.<br />
GREEN SPIRE 25’/8m 12’/3.5m » 3 Green Green form of Fat Albert; dense pyramidal form<br />
HOOPSII 30’/10m 10’/3m » 2 Blue Brightest bluest spruce. Narrow pyramidal shape.<br />
JIMMY JAMES 13’/4m 10’/3m » 3 Blue New very blue, almost silver, variety<br />
MESA VERDE 3’/1m 6’/2m 3 Green Very hardy nest form of spruce; better than Nest Spruce in Alberta<br />
MONTGOMERY 4’/1.3m 6’/2m 3 Blue Compact globe blue spruce that forms leader as matures<br />
MRS. CESSARINI 3’/1m 3’/1m 3 Green Bright green mounding spruce; light green bud break<br />
WEEPING - ‘Pendula’ varies varies 3 Blue Weeping tree needs staking when young; can be used as groundcover<br />
SPRUCE- SPRUCE - NORWAY - Picea abies var.<br />
ACROCONA 6’/2m 6’/2m » 3 Green Compact, slow-growing, irregular; has red cones on branch tips<br />
BIRD’S NEST - ‘Nidiformis’ 3’/1m 5’/1.5m » 4 Dk-Green Flat-topped, low growing, coniferous shrub. Use in place of juniper.<br />
COLUMNAR - ‘Cupressina’ 15’/5m 3’/1m 4 Green Very narrow Norway Spruce; better with snow loads than others<br />
DWARF NORWAY - ‘Pumila’ 3’/1m 3’/1m 4 Green Compact nest form; early bud break may not be good in Calgary<br />
LITTLE GEM 3’1/m 3’/1m 4 Green Very dense nest spruce with small needles; good for rock gardens<br />
OHLENDORFII 8’/2.5m 5’/1.5m 3 Green Grows slowly from a rounded shrub to a small conical tree<br />
WEEPING NORWAY - ‘Pendula’ 7’/2m variable » 4 Green Weeping spruce requires staking to grow upright.<br />
SPRUCE - WHITE - Picea glauca<br />
BLACK HILLS 20’/6m 10’/3m » 3 Blue-Green Superior to white spruce. Symmetrical, compact growth habit.<br />
WHITE 20’/6m 10’/3m » 2 Blue-Green Pyramidal native spruce; highly adaptable<br />
WEEPING WHITE - ‘Pendula’ 10’/3m 3’/1m 4 Green Very narrow weeping form; stiff, downward hanging branches<br />
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PLAntinG GUiDe<br />
Spring planting is preferable for most roses, vines, shrubs,<br />
trees and evergreens. However, the advent of the containerized<br />
nursery stock has extended the planting season to<br />
match the growing season. With proper care these plants<br />
can be planted any time during the growing season, from<br />
spring thaw to fall freeze-up. By following a number of<br />
simple steps you will be able to successfully plant containerized<br />
nursery stock. Remember that containers of all<br />
types and wraps other than burlap should be removed from<br />
the root ball before or during planting.<br />
Pre-planting Instructions: Take care to prevent wind<br />
burn to plants during transport by covering them well. Keep<br />
plants cool, in a shady area, and well watered until they are<br />
planted. Cover the root ball of balled and burlapped trees<br />
to prevent root drying.<br />
Soil Preparation: All trees, shrubs, and roses should<br />
be planted in well-drained topsoil. If there is less than<br />
20 cm. of topsoil in the planting area additional<br />
topsoil should be added. As you dig a hole<br />
separate the topsoil from the heavy subsoil.<br />
Discard the subsoil and replace it with rich<br />
topsoil. Do not pull heavy subsoil in around<br />
a plant as backfill. Add one part peat moss<br />
or prepared soil mix to three parts soil that<br />
you have dug from the planting hole. If,<br />
after digging a hole, you find the subsoil to<br />
be excessively heavy, having a high clay<br />
content; dig the hole down an additional<br />
15-30 cm. (6-12 in.). Fill this space with<br />
clean sand or gravel to enhance the subsoil<br />
drainage conditions.<br />
Bare Root Stock: The most commonly<br />
available bare root shrub is Cotoneaster<br />
(Cotoneaster lucida) which is use as a<br />
hedging material. Caragana and Lilac<br />
are also available. Until planted keep<br />
the root system of bare root plants<br />
moist. Protect bare root plants from drying out<br />
in the sun and wind by storing them in a shaded<br />
location with the roots wrapped in plastic or<br />
submerged in a bucket of water. Dig holes, or a<br />
trench, large enough to accommodate the plant's entire root<br />
system without crowding. Set the plants in the holes so that<br />
the ground level is even with or slightly higher than the top<br />
of the root system. Pull the topsoil in around the plant’s root<br />
system to fill the hole. Tamp the topsoil in firmly around the<br />
base of the plant with the sole of your shoe. This eliminates<br />
air pockets and ensures good contact between the topsoil<br />
and the root system. Create a tree well or indentation, which<br />
will hold water, around the base of the plant. Water the plant<br />
thoroughly by filling this indentation with a solution of water<br />
and a plant starter such as Schultz 10-60-10. Water the plant<br />
whenever the soil surface dries out, usually bi-weekly, during<br />
the first growing season to ensure the plant’s survival.<br />
Balled and Burlapped Stock: Dig a hole 15 cm.<br />
deeper and 30 cm. wider in diameter than the root ball.<br />
Place the plant in the hole and check to ensure that ground<br />
level is even with the top of the root ball. Cut and loosen<br />
the burlap wrap on the root ball, removing the burlap from<br />
the top of the root ball, and leave it around the sides, to<br />
hold the soil around the roots. As you pull the topsoil in<br />
around the root ball to fill in the hole, tamp the topsoil<br />
down firmly with your shoe. This eliminates air pockets and<br />
ensures good contact between the topsoil and the root system.<br />
Create a tree well, which will hold water, around the<br />
base of the plant. Water the plant thoroughly by filling the<br />
depression with a solution of water and a plant starter such<br />
as Schultz 10-60-10. Water the plant deeply whenever the<br />
soil surface dries out, generally biweekly, during the first<br />
growing season to ensure the plant's survival.<br />
Containerized Stock: Dig a hole 15 cm. deeper and 30<br />
cm. wider in diameter than the container in which the plant<br />
is growing. With the container on, set the plant in the hole<br />
to ensure that the ground level is even with the top of the<br />
root ball. Remove the plant from the hole and carefully, so<br />
as not to disturb the soil around the root system, remove the<br />
root ball from the container. Place the root ball back into the<br />
hole. As you pull topsoil in around the plant to fill the hole,<br />
tamp the topsoil down firmly with the sole of your shoe.<br />
This eliminates air pockets and ensures good contact<br />
between the topsoil and the root system. Create a<br />
tree well or indentation, which will hold water, around<br />
the base of the plant. Water the plant thoroughly by<br />
filling this indentation with a solution of water and<br />
a root starter such as Schultz 10-60-10. Water the<br />
plant deeply whenever the soil surface dries out,<br />
generally biweekly, during the first growing season<br />
to ensure the plant’s survival.<br />
Staking a Tree: Due to the windy conditions<br />
in the Calgary area all but the smallest<br />
of trees require staking. Staking keeps trees<br />
straight while they are rooting and prevents<br />
uprooting during wind storms. There are two<br />
methods of staking trees: using guy wires,<br />
or metal posts or wooden stakes. When<br />
staked, a tree should be able to move<br />
a few inches, as this will encourage<br />
strong root and trunk development.<br />
Guy Wires: Attach 3 guy wires to the tree,<br />
2/3 the way up the tree. Protect the tree’s bark<br />
by wrapping the portion of the wire contacting<br />
the tree trunk with a section of garden hose. Run one wire<br />
toward the northwest, directly into the prevailing winds,<br />
and attach it to a small stake, 40 cm. long, driven into the<br />
ground about two meters away from the base of the tree.<br />
Run the other two wires out from the tree ensuring even<br />
spacing between the three guy wires. Attach these wires to<br />
similar small stakes. Make sure that each of the 3 wires are<br />
evenly tightened.<br />
Metal or Wooden Stakes: Select a metal or wooden<br />
stake that is about one meter taller than the tree you are<br />
staking. Locate the stake on the NW side of the tree as<br />
this is the origin of most prevailing winds in Calgary. Drive<br />
the stake into the ground next to the tree making sure that<br />
the stake passes on the outside of the root ball. Pound the<br />
stake in deep enough to secure it, about one meter. Attach<br />
the tree to the stake using plastic tree ties or wire. Cover<br />
the wire with a section of garden hose where it contacts the<br />
tree trunk so as not to damage the bark.
PrUninG GUiDe<br />
General Pruning Tips:<br />
The basic objectives of pruning are to maintain the plant's<br />
natural shape, to maintain its health and vigor, and to keep<br />
it a manageable size. There are a number of general rules<br />
that should be followed no matter what type of pruning<br />
you are doing. Pruning cuts should be made with a sharp<br />
and clean pruning tool such as pruning shears. Disease<br />
organisms can be spread from branch to branch or from<br />
tree to tree if your pruning tools are not kept clean. Clean<br />
your pruning tools by dipping them in bleach (1 part bleach<br />
& 10 parts water) or alcohol between cuts, on disease<br />
infected plants or between plants, on disease-free plants.<br />
So as not to leave any stubs that will inevitably die, pruning<br />
cuts should be made cleanly and on the outside of the<br />
collar (wrinkled area between trunk and branch). Pruning<br />
cuts on small stems are always made just above a leaf<br />
or branch joint or node. Large pruning wounds can be<br />
painted with pruning paint to prevent the entry of disease<br />
organisms. Damaged, dead or diseased wood should<br />
be removed as soon as it is noticed. Branches which are<br />
crossing should be removed before they enlarge and start<br />
rubbing together. Try to maintain the natural shape of the<br />
tree or shrub. Carefully select which branches should be<br />
removed or headed back so as not to spoil the shape of<br />
the plant.<br />
Hedges:<br />
Newly planted hedges such as cotoneaster, caragana, Lilac,<br />
and cranberry; should be pruned back to encourage lateral<br />
branching which creates a fuller hedge more rapidly. As your<br />
hedge develops trim it so that the base is wider than the<br />
top. This allows sufficient sunlight to reach all leaf surfaces,<br />
preventing the base of the hedge from becoming open and<br />
sparse. Hedge shearing can be carried out at any time during<br />
the growing season. Older hedges in need of rejuvenation<br />
are more easily thinned out during the dormant season, in<br />
the early spring before new growth appears or in the fall after<br />
the leaves have fallen.<br />
Shrubs That Flower on Old Wood:<br />
Shrubs that flower on old wood in the spring such as<br />
forsythia, double flowering plum, nanking cherry, or lilac,<br />
for example, should be pruned as soon as flowering is<br />
finished. Pruning at any other time of the year will remove<br />
the dormant flower buds. Flower buds for most shrubs<br />
are formed on previous year's growth. White spireas such<br />
as bridal wreath, garland, and three-lobed also flower on old<br />
wood. Any other shrub that flowers in the summer on old wood<br />
should be pruned immediately after flowering. To prune older<br />
shrubs, usually requiring thinning, occasionally remove entire<br />
large branches by cutting them out at base.<br />
Shrubs That Flower on New Wood:<br />
Shrubs that bloom on new wood, such as elders,<br />
hydrangea, dwarf pink spireas (S. bumalda and japonica<br />
cultivars), Group C clematis, and most roses including hybrid<br />
teas and parkland series, may be pruned in the spring to<br />
remove old wood. Flower buds are formed on current year's<br />
growth. All other shrubs not listed above bloom on old wood.<br />
Suckers which emerge from below ground are removed during<br />
the summer, as they originate from the root stock.<br />
Shade Trees:<br />
Shade trees should be trained when they are still young.<br />
By shaping shade trees early, unwanted lower branches,<br />
crossing or rubbing branches, and branches growing in the<br />
wrong location or direction are eliminated. Most shade or<br />
ornamental trees prefer to be pruned during the dormant<br />
season, in early spring. Birch and maple (which are called<br />
"bleeders"), are exceptions, however. These species should<br />
be pruned in mid-summer, usually in July or August. Pruning<br />
cuts on birch and maple do not heal quickly because they<br />
bleed sap if pruned before their leaves are fully expanded.<br />
Most shade trees, if properly located and pruned when<br />
young, may require less pruning when mature. If you do have<br />
large trees requiring pruning, we recommend you consult a<br />
professional pruning service.<br />
Fruit Trees:<br />
Fruit trees such as apple, plum, or pear, are pruned during<br />
the dormant season in early spring to encourage vigorous<br />
growth and to create a better producing tree. Prune fruit<br />
trees so that all parts of the tree receive adequate sunlight.<br />
Unwanted lower branches, crossing or rubbing branches, and<br />
branches growing in the wrong direction or location should be<br />
removed when the tree is young. Any suckers growing from<br />
the roots or water sprouts growing from the trunk should also<br />
be removed. To prevent fruit from overloading and breaking<br />
permanent branches the smaller, outside branches should<br />
be also be thinned.<br />
Evergreens:<br />
The new growth on pines, called "candles", should be<br />
cut in half in June, after the new growth has hardened,<br />
to encourage a compact shape. Cedars and junipers<br />
may be shaped at any time. The long soft, new growth<br />
on spruce may be shortened to shape it, or minimize<br />
growth, in June. If the leader of a spruce is damaged or<br />
removed, a new one may be formed by tying a sturdy<br />
stick to the trunk, extending it above the top of the tree,<br />
and bending and tying one top branch up to the stick.<br />
You can avoid having to keep evergreens smaller than<br />
their natural size by choosing varieties that have an<br />
appropriate mature size.<br />
treeS AnD SHrUBS<br />
1 1
treeS AnD SHrUBS<br />
1 2<br />
PrUninG eqUiPment & USeS<br />
Pruning Equipment: The use of proper pruning<br />
equipment, to complete the job at hand is very important.<br />
It will not only save you time, but also money. One<br />
problem that we see at the garden centre is people<br />
bringing in broken pruning equipment, wanting to know<br />
why this happened. It happens because we try to save<br />
time by doing the job with one tool. Small hand pruners<br />
should only be used to cut branches the thickness of<br />
your little finger. The next tool would be the lopper. The<br />
longer the handle the more leverage you will get, but<br />
cuts larger than 1 in (2.5 cm) should not be made. This<br />
size of cut can also be made with a long handled pole<br />
pruner, but the more the pole is extended the harder it is<br />
to prune. Whenever possible use a ladder with the pole<br />
pruner, this will enable you to get higher up into the tree<br />
without extending the handle all the way. When the cut<br />
is larger than one inch in diameter, a saw should be<br />
used. For very large branches, a chainsaw would be<br />
the tool of choice, but must be used with extreme<br />
caution, and proper safety equipment.<br />
Both the small one handed pruner, and the lopper<br />
come in two different styles. The first is the anvil<br />
pruner, where the blade comes down onto a<br />
chopping block. We however do not recommend<br />
this type of pruner, because it tends to crush<br />
the branch, and tear the cambium layer, which<br />
slows the healing process, and can cause health<br />
problems later on, such as rotting as well as insect<br />
and fungus entry. These anvil type pruners are<br />
great when removing a tree completely, because<br />
it allows you to use more pressure without causing<br />
more damage to the pruner. The second type and<br />
most practical, is the hooked or curved blade. It<br />
is frequently called a by-pass pruner, where the<br />
blade passes by the cutting block, similar to a<br />
pair of scissors. This allows a nice clean cut to<br />
occur,which helps the healing process. There are<br />
many styles available so it is important to find one<br />
that is comfortable and practical for the amount<br />
and type of use.<br />
If pruning hedges there are manual, gas, and<br />
electric hedge shears available. For small jobs<br />
manual hedge shears work great and are much<br />
easier to sharpen. For larger jobs, electric or gas<br />
shears will save you time. Gas shears are much<br />
more powerful and versatile, however are not as<br />
easy to service or sharpen. One thing to keep in<br />
mind when pruning a hedge is that the bottom of<br />
the hedge should be kept wider than the top of the<br />
hedge, as this enables sunlight to reach all the<br />
leaves, and to prevent die-back and thinning from<br />
lack of light and air circulation.<br />
Safety Equipment: Basic protection for all<br />
pruning jobs includes: gloves, sturdy footwear, long<br />
sleeved shirt, pants, a hat, but most important is a<br />
good pair of eye protectors, to keep pruning cuttings,<br />
and debris out of your eyes. If using electric or gas<br />
hedge shears, or chainsaws, ear protection should<br />
be mandatory. With chainsaws you should also have<br />
protective legwear, such as chainsaw pants, and steel<br />
toed work boots. Proper knowledge on using a chainsaw<br />
is should be obtained before using this equipment.
Trees, Shrubs And Evergreens:<br />
Several types of winter plant damage occur in the Calgary<br />
area. The most obvious type, referred to as tip-kill<br />
or die-back, is a result of the local conditions - mainly<br />
warm, dry Chinook winds, bright sun, and low relative<br />
humidity. These conditions accelerate the normally slow<br />
loss of water from plant tissues and result in dry twigs,<br />
damaged buds, desiccated evergreen foliage, and the<br />
death of certain plants.<br />
Warm Chinook winds also cause plant injury<br />
by inducing premature spring. This occurs when plants<br />
break dormancy and begin growing during extended periods<br />
of warm winter weather. Subsequent cold periods<br />
damage developing leaves, crack sap-filled bark; and, on<br />
occasion, damage root systems. Frost damage, caused<br />
by rapid temperature fluctuations, is a condition we should<br />
therefore be aware of and attempt to prevent.<br />
Since evergreens retain their foliage year round, the<br />
needles are constantly losing moisture through a process<br />
known as transpiration. This moisture must be constantly<br />
replaced in order to prevent Chinook damage. Therefore,<br />
evergreen trees and shrubs require additional moisture<br />
and protection to ensure their survival under local conditions.<br />
Sheltered gardens have a better chance of standing up to<br />
the warm, dry winds of Calgary. Shelter may be provided<br />
by houses, walls, fences, or even by other trees. The most<br />
sheltered spots in your yard are located where the snow<br />
drifts the deepest. Snow protects plants by insulating<br />
them from winter temperature extremes. But snow often<br />
doesn’t accumulate in this area, and many new gardens<br />
lack shelter entirely. We have to offer a helping hand when<br />
it comes to winter protection.<br />
You can not control the weather but you can reduce the<br />
damage caused by Chinook winds and bright winter sun.<br />
In the late fall, apply an anti-desiccant such as Wilt-Proof<br />
to sensitive evergreens. Rather than wrapping them with<br />
burlap, create a windbreak or sun screen by placing two<br />
or three stakes into the ground 12-18" from the tree on<br />
the sunny or windy side, and stretching burlap between<br />
the stakes. Water all trees (especially evergreens and<br />
birch), and shrubs thoroughly in the fall, before freeze-up,<br />
to ensure they have sufficient water. During Chinooks,<br />
evergreens planted close to the house foundation, particularly<br />
on the sunny side, may require watering if the<br />
soil is dry. Hose down foliage, too, as some moisture can<br />
be taken into needles. Mulch the soil surface around the<br />
base of less hardy plants to ensure consistent, cold soil<br />
temperature throughout the winter. Pile straw, dry leaves,<br />
or dry plant material around the base.<br />
Winter ProteCtion<br />
Tea Roses:<br />
Since tea roses are grafted onto hardier root stock, the<br />
most important aspect of winter protection is keeping the<br />
plant alive above the graft. The bush should be planted<br />
so that the graft is 4 - 5" below ground level, where the<br />
temperature is much more consistent. Soil is then used<br />
to further protect the plant. In the fall, after light frost,<br />
water the plant well, and cut back to about 8 - 10". Place<br />
a rose cone, a large tree pot with the bottom removed,<br />
or a heavy, waxed cardboard box over top of it; and fill<br />
the box with soil, vermiculite, peat moss, straw, sawdust,<br />
or dry leaves. Cover the top with cloth, not plastic, and<br />
don’t remove the covering until early May. You may have<br />
to cover again temporarily if frost is expected. While this<br />
method is no guarantee that every tea rose will survive,<br />
it is quite successful most of the time, and means that<br />
tea roses can be grown successfully in Calgary. It can<br />
also be used to protect other less hardy shrubs, such as<br />
azalea, blueberry, clematis, rose daphne, rhododendron<br />
and weigela.<br />
Climbing Roses:<br />
Since most climbing shrub roses bloom most heavily on<br />
previous year’s growth, it is important that the bushes<br />
survive well above ground, in order to have maximum<br />
number of flowers. Non-hardy climbing roses are not<br />
recommended for Calgary gardens because they are<br />
not reliable. Some Explorer series roses such as William<br />
Baffin and John Cabot are much hardier and will bloom<br />
reliably. Rambling roses such as John Davis and Henry<br />
Kelsey may also be trained as climbers.<br />
1<br />
treeS AnD SHrUBS
treeS AnD SHrUBS<br />
1<br />
tree CAnKerS<br />
A canker is defined as a diseased, sunken lesion on woody<br />
tissue. There are three types of cankers; fungal, bacteria<br />
or frost. Frost cankers, actually physiological disorders, are<br />
cracks on the bark caused by freezing and thawing. Fungal<br />
and bacterial pathogens usually gain<br />
entry through frost cracks, pruning<br />
wounds, wind damage, or sun scald.<br />
Sun scald is another physiological<br />
condition that occurs on the south<br />
west side of tree trunks exposed to<br />
bright winter sunlight, most often<br />
affecting mayday and mountain ash<br />
trees. Fungi are in fact microscopic<br />
plants which do not invade healthy<br />
plant tissue. Once inside the plant the<br />
fungi move into the sap system and<br />
eventually decrease or stop water<br />
from moving upward from the roots to<br />
the branches. If you look closely at the<br />
trunk where the branch is attached,<br />
you may see cracks in the bark with<br />
the bark peeled back from the crack,<br />
elongated oval, sunken or darkened<br />
areas in the bark or places where sap<br />
is oozing from broken areas in the<br />
bark. One common fungus causes<br />
Cytospora canker in Cotoneasters,<br />
particularly inside older hedges where<br />
there is little light or air circulation; a<br />
perfect place for fungi to grow. The<br />
commonly observed orange Nectria canker on cotoneaster<br />
is actually a secondary rot organism that does not harm the<br />
plants itself. Some of these cankers are incorrectly diagnosed<br />
as fireblight, in which the leaves die because the bacteria kill<br />
them, and then the cankers come afterwards. While possible<br />
on most trees, fungal Cytospora<br />
cankers are most prevalent on<br />
mountain ash, poplar, spruce, and<br />
willow. Bacterial cankers, also<br />
called slime flux or wetwood, are<br />
most freqently observed on poplar<br />
trees. There is no chemical control<br />
for fungal or bacterial cankers.<br />
The only way to control them is<br />
to prune the branches back well<br />
into healthy wood. In the case of<br />
hedges; remove the inside, affected<br />
branches and then the remaining<br />
branches will grow into the center<br />
because of the available light and<br />
air circulation. This is not a cure as<br />
the fungi or bacteria could spread<br />
within the sap of the plant and<br />
cause more cankers. Eventually, if<br />
it invades the main trunk, the tree<br />
may have to be removed. Be careful<br />
to clean pruning tools with a 10%<br />
bleach solution between each cut,<br />
as fungi or bacteria spread on tools.<br />
It is difficult to diagnose cankers by<br />
describing them on the phone so<br />
bring in a branch to customer service for easier identification.
oSeS HArDy roSeS<br />
Roses, the “Queen of Flowers,” are available in a variety<br />
of sizes, colours and fragrances. All roses require<br />
a sunny location and well-drained, slightly acidic soil.<br />
See the Planting <strong>Guide</strong> on p. for information on planting<br />
containerized plants. All roses, especially tea roses,<br />
respond to adequate watering and fertilizing by an<br />
increase in flower size, abundance, and color intensity.<br />
When watering, avoid getting the foliage wet while<br />
keeping the soil evenly moist. Fertilize once in spring<br />
with a slow-release rose food or apply a water soluble<br />
rose fertilizer about once a month from May to mid-August.Roses<br />
are generally divided into two groups: Hardy<br />
Roses and Tender Roses.<br />
Hardy roses include: Explorer, Parkland, Rugosa, etc.<br />
Tender Roses include: Floribunda, Grandiflora, Hybrid<br />
Tea, Miniature, etc. Roses come in various forms:<br />
groundcover, shrub, hedging and rambling or climbing,<br />
etc. with much variation in color, fragrance, shape and<br />
size of flowers. The majority of roses bloom on new<br />
growth and rebloom or flower continuously throughout<br />
the growing season. Blooms may be small - less than<br />
2"(5cm), medium - 2-4"(5-10cm) or large - more than<br />
4"(10cm).<br />
Hardy Roses include a One Full Year Guarantee!<br />
Hardy Shrub Roses<br />
World-wide,tea roses are the most popular rose. However,<br />
here in Calgary, hardy roses are more popular. Their ease<br />
of cultivation, disease resistance, and winter hardiness<br />
earns them high points in Calgary gardens.<br />
Planting and Care<br />
Hardy roses require a sunny location and well-drained,<br />
slightly acidic soil. See the Planting <strong>Guide</strong> on p. for<br />
information on planting containerized plants. Hardy roses<br />
respond well to adequate watering and fertilizing. Fertilize<br />
once in spring with a slow-release product like Smartcote<br />
Rose Food. If using a water-soluble fertilizer like Shultz<br />
Rose Food, supply four, evenly spaced applications from<br />
May to no later than mid-August. Ask about Myke Tree<br />
and Shrub growth supplement. It builds root systems to<br />
create healthier rose plants.<br />
Pruning<br />
It is important to prune out any damaged, dead, or diseased<br />
stems. Light pruning can be carried on throughout the<br />
growing season. Prune out dead blooms (deadhead) and<br />
prune back to just above 5-leaflet leaves to encourage<br />
more flowers on re-blooming types of roses.<br />
Winter Protection<br />
Some hardy roses may suffer Chinook or winter damage,<br />
but almost all bloom on new wood and will recover in the<br />
spring. Cover the soil with 3-4 in.(7-10cm) of mulch at<br />
least out to the drip line.This will help protect and maintain<br />
healthier roots in any season.<br />
Most of our hardy roses are grown on their own roots.<br />
This makes them much hardier than grafted plants.<br />
Categories of hardy roses include Explorer, Parkland<br />
(Morden), Hybrid Rugosa, and Species types. Different<br />
forms include climbers, groundcovers, shrub and hedging<br />
roses. Besides abundant flowers during the growing<br />
season, many hardy roses can also be enjoyed for their<br />
colorful rose hips in winter.<br />
Explorer Roses<br />
Developed through Agriculture Canada and named after<br />
early Canadian explorers, these are some of the hardiest<br />
roses ever developed and include climbing, groundcover,<br />
shrub and hedging types.<br />
Parkland Roses (Morden Roses)<br />
Developed by Agriculture Canada in Morden, Manitoba,<br />
many are direct descendents of floribunda and hybrid tea<br />
roses crossed with various native roses. They tend to<br />
have beautifully formed flowers that re-bloom and grow<br />
on medium-sized plants.<br />
Hybrid Rugosa Roses<br />
These are vigorous, reliable roses with repeat blooms<br />
all season. Many Explorer Roses owe their hardiness to<br />
breeding with Rugosa Roses. Some Rugosa favorites<br />
are: Hansa Rose, Blanc de Coubert, Theresa Bugnet and<br />
Topaz Jewel. Also see (and smell) our Pavement Roses:<br />
low-growing, salt-tolerant roses with very fragrant white,<br />
pink or purple blooms.<br />
Species Roses<br />
A few favorite roses in this category:<br />
Red Leaf rose is a popular rose with year-round interest<br />
Persian Yellow rose is a tall, vigorous plant that produces<br />
an abundance of deep yellow flowers in June.<br />
Austrian Copper rose, related to Persian Yellow rose,<br />
grown since the 1500's; vivid orange-red blooms with<br />
yellow centers.<br />
roSeS 1
oSeS<br />
1 6<br />
roSeS<br />
yoUr qUeStion<br />
Q. Can I grow roses in the shade?<br />
A. In general, roses need at least six hours of direct sun<br />
a day to be happy. Roses grown in the shade bloom less,<br />
are leggy and prone to insects and diseases.<br />
Q. What do you suggest for climbing roses?<br />
A. We recommend hardy roses which can be trained to<br />
climb such as Capt. Samuel Holland, Henry Kelsey, John<br />
Cabot, John Davis, William Baffin and others.<br />
Q. There are black spots on my rose leaves. What is<br />
wrong with this plant?<br />
A. This is a fungus simply called 'Black Spot'. Infected<br />
leaves form black spots that are about 1/16 -1/2 in.<br />
diameter. The infected leaves can turn yellow and in<br />
severe cases may eventually fall off if not treated. Wet<br />
leaves and warm temperatures encourage this fungus.<br />
To fight and/or prevent Black Spot, water the soil not the<br />
leaves. Prevent splashing on the foliage by using a slow<br />
trickle or a soaker hose. Water early in the morning to<br />
allow leaves to dry during the day. Spray the upper and<br />
lower leaf surfaces with a fungicide such as Funginex<br />
may help to slow down the spread of Black Spot. Water<br />
in the morning and ground level can help solve this<br />
problem too.<br />
Q. My rose has a white powdery buildup on the leaves.<br />
What is it and what can I do about it?<br />
A. This is a fungus called powdery mildew. It coats the<br />
leaves and can destroy them. One way to reduce this<br />
problem is to improve air flow around the plant. Prune<br />
out crossing canes and do not plant too close to a wall or<br />
fence. Applying a fungicide like Funginex on both infected<br />
and uninfected leaves may also help prevent the spread<br />
of powdery mildew.<br />
Q. There are some semi-circular holes in the leaves of<br />
my roses. I can't find any insects causing the damage.<br />
what could it be?<br />
A. This sounds like leaf-cutter bees. The bees, which are<br />
commonly used for pollinating alfalfa crops, use the small<br />
pieces of leaf to line their larval chambers. They cause<br />
no real damage to the rose and should not be treated.<br />
Q. My rose won't flower or it flowers poorly. What<br />
could be the problem? Do I need to fertilize more?<br />
A. Your rose may need more light: at least 6 hours of<br />
direct sun per day, preferably morning sun. It may need<br />
more regular watering, especially suring our dry summers.<br />
Roses like slightly acid conditions and will benefit when<br />
peat moss, compost and garden sulphur is mixed into the<br />
soil. Another cause of poor flowering could be too much<br />
nitrogen which may cause your plant to produce more<br />
leaves and less flowers. To encourage flowering, use a<br />
balanced rose fertilizer. (See next question.)<br />
Q. How do I fertilize my roses?<br />
A. Roses are happy in a sunny, well-drained, slightly<br />
acidic location. In addition, roses respond well to<br />
regular watering and feeding. Many gardeners feed<br />
their roses by regularly mixing in compost and bone<br />
meal around the roots. Others have had success with<br />
Alaska MorBloom, a soluble fish fertilizer. Another well<br />
balanced soluble fertilizer is Schultz Rose Food (10-<br />
12-12) which can be applied about once a month from<br />
May until mid-August. Alternatively apply a slow-release<br />
formulation like Smartcote Rose Food (14-12-12) once<br />
in spring. Provide adequate watering with every feeding<br />
and throughout the growing season. Ask about Myke Tree<br />
and Shrub growth supplement. It builds root systems to create<br />
healthier rose plants.<br />
Q. When and how do I prune my roses?<br />
A. Damaged, dead, or diseased stems should be<br />
removed as soon as you notice them. To encourage more<br />
flowers on all types of re-blooming roses, prune out dead<br />
blooms (deadhead) and prune back to just above 5-leaflet<br />
leaves. In general, hardy roses require only light pruning<br />
during the growing season. Tender roses need additional<br />
care. Remember to trim out one third of the grey stems<br />
in the fall and prune back remaining stems to about 8-<br />
10" (20-25cm) and cover these with a winter mulch. The<br />
following spring trim out any dead stem tips.<br />
Q. How do I protect tender roses (including tea roses)<br />
for winter ?<br />
A. Please refer to Winter Protection for Tender Roses<br />
on page 133.
oSeS HArDy roSeS<br />
Variety Color Bloom Petal Height Frag- Features<br />
Size Count (approx.) rance<br />
c - May be trained as climber<br />
r - Attractive rosehips in winter<br />
Adelaide Hoodless r bright medium semi- 4 ft. light Clusters of bright red continual flowers.<br />
Parkland red double 1.2 m Old-fashioned favorite rose.<br />
Alexander McKenzie reddish- medium double 6 ft. medium Tall rose with continual fragrant blooms.<br />
Explorer pink 1.8 m Flowers and foliage similar to Tea Roses.<br />
Austrian Copper c red- medium single 6 ft. medium Unique flower show in June. Grown since 1500's.<br />
Rosa foetida bicolor orange 1.8 m Red-orange petals with copper centers & reverse.<br />
Blanc de Coubert r white medium double 5 ft. strong Continual white fragrant flowers all season.<br />
Hybrid Rugosa 1.5 m Red rosehips in fall & winter.<br />
Cpt. Samuel Holland c reddish- medium double 6 ft. light Trailing growth habit; continual blooming<br />
Explorer pink 1.8 m Resistant to powdery mildew & black spot.<br />
Carefree Beauty r pink small semi- 3 ft. light Spreading growth habit; continual blooming<br />
Shrub double 1 m Blooms from spring until fall.<br />
Champlain r dark medium double 3 ft. medium Most red of the Explorer Roses. Disease resistant.<br />
Explorer red 1 m Continual blooming from summer to frost.<br />
Charles Albanel r medium medium semi- 1.5 ft. strong Hardier groundcover rose than Flower Carpet.<br />
Explorer pink double 0.5 m Repeat blooming from summer to frost.<br />
Chuckles deep medium single 2 ft. light Continual blooms. Deep pink with yellow center.<br />
Shrub pink 0.6 m Glossy green foliage on a compact plant.<br />
Cuthbert Grant purplish- large semi- 3 ft. light Largest flower of any Parkland or Explorer rose.<br />
Parkland red double 1 m Old-fashioned favorite rose; repeat blooms.<br />
Dart's Dash r mauve- medium semi- 3 ft. strong Fragrant blooms repeat all season.<br />
Hybrid Rugosa red double 1 m Disease resistant plant; colorful rosehips in winter.<br />
David Thompson deep medium double 3 ft. strong Similar to Hansa Rose but more compact.<br />
Explorer pink 1 m Continual fragrant blooms. No rose hips.<br />
De Montarville medium medium double 3 ft. medium Tight red buds open to a medium pink.<br />
Explorer pink 1 m light Continual blooming. Disease resistant.<br />
F. J. Grootendorst medium small double 5 ft. light Carnation-like red flowers.<br />
Hybrid Rugosa red 1.5 m Wrinkled foliage; continual blooming.<br />
Frontenac deep medium double 3 ft. light Continually flowering in clusters of up to eight.<br />
Explorer pink 1 m Resistant to powdery mildew & black spot.<br />
George Vancouver r soft medium double 3 ft. medium Abundance of soft red flowers in clusters.<br />
Explorer red 1 m Repeat blooms all season. Disease resistant.<br />
<strong>Golden</strong> Wings r golden large single 4 ft. light <strong>Golden</strong> yellow, lightly scented flowers.<br />
Shrub yellow 1.2m Repeat blooming through growing season.<br />
Hansa - r reddish- medium double 1.5 m strong Hardy popular fragrant rose; repeat blooms.<br />
Hybrid Rugosa purple 5 ft. Unique reddish-violet flowers.<br />
Harrison Yellow sulphur medium double 5 ft light One-time mass of yellow blooms.<br />
Hybrid foetida yellow 1.5 m Substitute for Persian Yellow rose.<br />
Henry Hudson r pinkish- medium double 2 ft. medium Pink flower buds open up into white flowers.<br />
Explorer white 0.6 m Repeat blooming from summer to frost.<br />
Henry Kelsey c medium medium semi- 7 ft. medium Tall trailing rose may be trained as a climber.<br />
Explorer r red double 2 m Glossy foliage. Repeat bloomer all season.<br />
Hope for Humanity blood- small double 2 ft. light Deep red blooms repeat all season.<br />
Parkland red 0.6 m Commemorates Canadian Red Cross 100th anniv.<br />
Hunter crimson medium double 4 ft. light Brilliant red flowers repeat until frost.<br />
Hybrid Rugosa red 1.2 m Tidy shrub form with dark green foliage.<br />
J. P. Connell cream- medium double 4 ft. light Repeating cream-yellow flowers all season.<br />
Explorer yellow 1.2 m Flower color is stronger on established plants<br />
Jens Munk - r medium medium semi- 3 ft. strong Continual fragrant blooms; attractive rosehips<br />
Explorer pink double 1 m in fall/winter; very hardy shrub/hedging rose.<br />
roSeS 1
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1<br />
roSeS PiCtUreS<br />
hardy<br />
roses<br />
Adelaide Hoodless Alexander McKenzie Blanc de Coubert<br />
Cpt. Samuel Holland Champlain Charles Albanel Chuckles<br />
Cuthbert Grant David Thompson F.J. Grootendoorst Frontenac<br />
George Vancouver Hansa Henry Hudson Henry Kelsey<br />
Hunter J.P. Connell Jens Munk John Cabot
oSeS HArDy roSeS<br />
Variety Color Bloom Petal Height Frag- Features<br />
Size Count (approx.) rance<br />
John Cabot - c reddish- medium double 7 ft. light Tall climbing fragrant rose.<br />
Explorer r pink 2 m Fully double blooms repeat all season.<br />
John Davis - c medium medium double 7 ft. medium Tall rambling rose may be trained as a climber.<br />
Explorer pink 2 m Continual blooms all season.<br />
John Franklin medium medium double 4 ft. light Continual blooms all season.<br />
Explorer red 1.2 m Disease-resistant foliage.<br />
Lambert Closse pale medium double 3 ft. light Full, double flowers; disease resistant shrub.<br />
Explorer pink 1 m Blooms similar to tea roses; repeat blooms.<br />
Linda Campbell ruby medium double 5 ft. light Heavy blooming specimen or hedge rose.<br />
Hybrid Rugosa red 1.5 m Repeat blooms. Almost thornless, arching canes.<br />
Lois Jolliet - c medium medium double 4-5 ft. light Continuous bloom from summer to frost<br />
Explorer pink 1.5 m Trailing growth habit; disease resistant.<br />
Martin Frobisher light medium double 5 ft. strong First introduced Explorer Series rose.<br />
Explorer pink 1.5 m Continual fragrant blooms.<br />
Morden Amorette deep medium double 2 ft. light Continuous blooms from summer to frost<br />
Parkland pink 0.6 m on a very compact plant.<br />
Morden Blush soft small double 3 ft. light Repeat hybrid tea type flowers; low growing rose.<br />
Parkland pink 1 m Longest blooming period of any shrub rose.<br />
Morden Cardinette cardinal medium double 2 ft. light Deep red flowers on a low growing rose.<br />
Parkland red 0.6 m Ever blooming from June until frost.<br />
Morden Centennial - r medium medium double 3 ft. medium Plentiful hot pink flowers; glossy green foliage.<br />
Parkland pink 1 m Repeat blooms; all season.<br />
Morden Fireglow orange- medium double 2 ft. light Unique orange-red flowers repeat all season.<br />
Parkland red 0.6 m Low growing, disease resistant rose.<br />
Morden Ruby ruby medium double 3 ft. light Clusters of ruby red flowers repeat all season.<br />
Parkland red 1 m A real jewel in the Morden series.<br />
Morden Sunrise orange small semi- 3 ft. medium Continuous orange-peach blooms with citrus<br />
Parkland blend double 1 m fragrance. Disease resistant, compact shrub.<br />
Nearly Wild - r medium small single 3 ft. medium Pink flowers with light center; everblooming<br />
Shrub pink 1 m Proven all-weather performer.<br />
Persian Yellow - c deep medium double 6 ft. light Tall popular rose with deep yellow flowers.<br />
Rosa foetida persiana r yellow 1.8 m One time profusion of blooms.<br />
Pink Grootendorst medium small double 5 ft. light Carnation-like, pink flowers.<br />
Hybrid Rugosa pink 1.5 m Wrinkled foliage.<br />
c - May be trained as climber<br />
r - Attractive rosehips in winter<br />
Pavement Roses - r white medium single, 3 ft. medium Fragrant blooms repeat all season; orange<br />
Hybrid Rugosa pink, red semi-db. 1 m rosehips. Tolerate temperature extremes and salt.<br />
red-purple double Good for borders and low hedges.<br />
Prairie Dawn medium small double 5 ft. light Continual double pink blooms all season.<br />
Shrub pink 1.5 m Glossy foliage.<br />
Prairie Joy - r medium small double 4 ft. light Hedge type rose for screening; repeat all season<br />
Shrub pink 1.2 m Dense foliage is disease resistant.<br />
Quadra - c deep medium double 5 ft. light Clusters of deep red blooms repeat all season.<br />
Explorer red 1.5 m Arching stems can be trained to climb.<br />
Red Leaf - r light small single 5 ft. medium Reddish-purple foliage; pink flowers in June.<br />
Rosa glauca/rubrifolia pink 1.5 m Red hips and purple branches for winter color.<br />
Rosarie de l’Hay magenta medium semi- 7 ft. strong Continual deep magenta blooms all season.<br />
Hybrid Rugosa red double 2 m Extremely vigorous plants.<br />
Royal Edward deep medium single 1.5 ft. medium Repeat blooms all season.<br />
Explorer pink 0.5 m Low growing, groundcover rose.<br />
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1 0<br />
roSeS PiCtUreS<br />
John Davis John Franklin L.D. Braithwaite Lambert Closse<br />
Linda Campbell Louis Jolliet Martin Frobisher Morden Blush<br />
Morden Centennial Morden Fireglow Morden Ruby Nearly Wild<br />
Persian Yellow Pink Grootendoorst Prairie Dawn Rosa Rubrifolia<br />
Theresa Bugnet Topaz Jewel William Baffin Winnipeg Parks
oSeS HArDy roSeS<br />
Variety Color Bloom Petal Height Frag- Features<br />
Size Count (approx.) rance<br />
Samuel Holland c reddish medium double 6 ft. light Continual blooming pillar type rose.<br />
Explorer pink 1.8 m May be trained as a climber.<br />
Simon Fraser medium medium semi- 2 ft. light Continually covered in blooms all season.<br />
Explorer pink double 0.6 m Low growing compact plant.<br />
Sir Thomas Lipton pure medium semi- 7 ft. strong Tall rose with pure white, large fragrant flowers.<br />
Hybrid Rugosa white double 2 m Leathery foliage; repeat blooms all season<br />
Theresa Bugnet r medium medium double 6 ft. medium Tall shrub with full flowers; repeats all season.<br />
Hybrid Rugosa pink 1.8 m Orange-scarlet fall foliage; orange rose hips.<br />
Topaz Jewel butter medium double 5 ft. medium Butter to cream yellow flowers.<br />
Hybrid Rugosa yellow 1.5 m First ever blooming yellow rugosa rose.<br />
Wild Rose of Alberta r medium small single 3 ft. medium Floral emblem of Alberta; repeats all season.<br />
Rosa spp. pink 1 m Native plant is also called Prickly Rose.<br />
William Baffin c medium medium semi- 7 ft. light Popular climbing rose. Prolific bloomer that<br />
Explorer r pink double 2 m repeats from June until frost.<br />
William Booth c pink medium single 5 ft. light Continuous blooms from summer to frost.<br />
Explorer 1.5 m Trailing growth habit.; disease resistant.<br />
Winnipeg Parks r deep medium double 2 ft. medium Popular hardy, low growing rose.<br />
Parkland pink 0.6 m Everblooming.<br />
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1 2<br />
roSeS tenDer roSeS<br />
All Tender Roses, Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, Grandiflora,<br />
Miniature, and Climbing Roses, etc. carry a seasonal<br />
guarantee only. Tender Roses are not guaranteed<br />
to overwinter.<br />
Tender roses, are very popular and add beauty, colour,<br />
and fragrance to gardens. They can basically be grown<br />
like an annual in the open garden or on patios in pots. If<br />
you choose to use them as a patio plant make sure you<br />
sink the pots in the ground in the winter to give the roses<br />
a chance of winter survival.<br />
Planting and Care:<br />
Tender roses require a sunny location and well-drained,<br />
slightly acidic soil and respond well to adequate watering<br />
and fertilizing. For information on planting please see the<br />
Planting <strong>Guide</strong> on p. . If your plant is a grafted rose then<br />
plant the graft union about 4 in. (10cm) below ground<br />
level. Plant non-grafted roses with the top of the root ball<br />
at ground level. To reduce foliage diseases keep the soil<br />
evenly moist without wetting the leaves. Fertilize with one<br />
spring application of Smartcote Rose Food or use a liquid<br />
concentrate like Schultz Rose Food applied once a month<br />
from May to mid-August.<br />
Pruning:<br />
Remember to trim out one third of the grey stems in the<br />
fall. Trim out the dead stem tips in the spring as well. Cut<br />
out all damaged, dead, and diseased wood. To encourage<br />
re-bloom , prune back spent flower stems to just above<br />
the ‘five-leaflet’ leaf. Remember, some tender roses are<br />
seasonal and do not re-bloom.<br />
Winter Protection for Tender Roses:<br />
To protect against Chinook and cold damage, help tender<br />
roses prepare for winter. Reduce watering in fall to<br />
allow plant growth to slow down and harden off. In late<br />
fall, just before ground freezes, water the plant generously.<br />
After the ground has frozen, cut back to about<br />
8-10" (20-25cm), place a rose cone, a large tree pot with<br />
the bottom removed, or a heavy, waxed cardboard box<br />
over top of it; and fill the box with vermiculite, peat moss,<br />
straw, sawdust, or dry leaves. Cover the top with cloth,<br />
not plastic, until early May. In spring cover temporarily<br />
if frost is expected. While this method is no guarantee<br />
of rose survival, it has been an effective overwintering<br />
method for many tender roses in Calgary.<br />
Tender roses are placed into different categories or<br />
classes which include Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, Grandiflora,<br />
Miniature, Climbing, Old Fashioned, English and Dream<br />
types.<br />
Hybrid Teas are the most popular worldwide. They<br />
have long pointed buds with straight stems. These roses<br />
are typically seen at florist shops. They will require winter<br />
protection.<br />
Floribunda Roses are bred by crossing hybrid teas and<br />
Polyanthas (typically a single-flowered rose type). Floribundas<br />
are ever-blooming, flower in clusters, and are generally<br />
shorter plants than hybrid teas. They are a little hardier than<br />
hybrid teas but still require winter protection.<br />
Grandiflora Roses are hybrids bred from floribundas<br />
and hybrid teas. Their blossoms are larger than floribundas<br />
and slightly smaller than hybrid teas. Again, they flower<br />
in clusters and resemble hybrid teas in form with longer<br />
stems than floribundas. Suitable for cutting.<br />
Miniature Roses are ever-blooming with small flowers<br />
that look Similar in form to hybrid teas. They are usually<br />
quite short - 6-18 in.(15-45cm). Due to their short height<br />
they are easier to overwinter than other non-hardy roses.<br />
There are not that many miniatures noted for their fragrance.<br />
They can make good houseplants as well if given<br />
bright light and cool conditions.<br />
Climbing Roses can have parents that are floribundas<br />
or hybrid teas. They normally bloom on last year’s growth<br />
which will need protection over the winter. You can try to<br />
bend the stems over into a trench and cover them with a<br />
mulch. Even with extra protection, tender climbing roses<br />
can be quite a challenge to over-winter in our area.,<br />
therefore most Calgary gardeners prefer to plant hardy<br />
climbing or rambling roses. Explorer roses such as John<br />
Cabot, John Cabot, Henry Kelsey, or William Baffin, are<br />
much hardier, will bloom reliably and can easily be trained<br />
as climbers.<br />
Old Fashioned or Old <strong>Garden</strong> include various<br />
species and cultivars that generally bloom early in the<br />
season. They were quite popular before hybrid teas<br />
were developed in the late 1800’s.<br />
English or David Austin have become quite popular.<br />
Hybrids between old fashioned and hybrid tea roses, they<br />
are mostly fragrant with repeat blooms.<br />
Dream Roses were a new introduction in 2001. They are<br />
very disease resistant and vigorous with repeating hybrid<br />
tea type flowers.
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95’ Brass Bands Abraham Darby <strong>Golden</strong> Celebration<br />
Graham Thomas Heritage L.D. Braithwaite Wenlock<br />
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roSeS 1
Q: How do I get rid of dog spots?<br />
A: Dog spots are brown or yellow patches edged with dark<br />
green and are a very common lawn problem. The main<br />
reason for the dead grass is the high nitrogen and salt<br />
content in the dog’s urine. This creates a burn exactly like<br />
over-fertilizing. As the nitrogen dilutes towards the edge<br />
of the spot it actually feeds the grass, resulting in the<br />
green areas. The best way to deal with this is to heavily<br />
water the area to flush out the excess nitrogen and salt.<br />
Gypsum, lime, or top-dressing may be applied in order to<br />
increase drainage. If this is a recurring problem in your<br />
lawn, planting a resistant grass like fescue will reduce the<br />
appearance of damage.<br />
Q: The grass under my evergreen is dead or dying.<br />
What can I do?<br />
A: Grass will not grow under spruce and other evergreens<br />
for a number of reasons. The tree blocks both the sunlight<br />
and the rain resulting in a dark, dry area. The best way to<br />
deal with this is to allow the spruce branches to grow to<br />
the ground as they would naturally. Pruning off the lower<br />
limbs will not encourage the grass to grow, instead it simply<br />
emphasizes the problem. If this pruning has already been<br />
done there are a few things that you can try: seed with<br />
a drought and shade-tolerant grass like a fescue, apply<br />
lime to reduce any accumulated acidity from the needles,<br />
water more often, or use perennials like Aegopodium or<br />
Lily-of-the-Valley as ground covers. The easiest thing to do<br />
in the long run is to lay down landscape fabric and apply<br />
mulch or decorative stone beneath the tree.<br />
Q: I have heard that a lawn needs to be dethatched?<br />
What does this mean and how do I do it?<br />
A: Thatch is a layer of undecomposed grass stems and<br />
roots that accumulates near the soil surface. This is a<br />
natural part of lawn growth and is only harmful if the<br />
thatch is thicker than 1/2 inch (1cm). If it is too thick the<br />
grass will root into the thatch, which does not have the<br />
LAWnS<br />
yoUr qUeStionS<br />
water holding capabilities of soil, causing the grass to dry<br />
out quickly in hot weather. The best ways to control thatch<br />
are: a spring power raking, aerating with a coring machine<br />
(removes plugs of earth, allowing air and moisture to help<br />
decompose the thatch), or top dressing with a thin layer of<br />
soil to help break down the thatch. Spray on products and<br />
micro-organisms are available to assist in dethatching by<br />
accelerating the decomposing process.<br />
Q: What can you tell me about aerating my lawn?<br />
A: Aerating allows oxygen into the soil; oxygen is important<br />
for healthy root growth which in turn is important for<br />
a healthy lawn. It also improves compacted soil, thatch<br />
problems, and clay soils. Aerating breaks up the thatch<br />
and loosens the soil, encouraging new deeper root growth,<br />
making the lawn more heat and drought tolerant. The lawn<br />
should be aerated in early spring and fall if using a coring<br />
aerator (a machine that removes plugs of soil) or anytime<br />
of the year if the spiking method is used (punching holes in<br />
the ground with a spike or metal tine). It is best to consult<br />
a professional if a coring method is required.<br />
Q: What is the difference between granular and liquid<br />
fertilizer?<br />
A: A good quality slow-release granular fertilizer will feed<br />
the lawn for around two months, depending on the weather<br />
and the brand purchased. Liquid fertilizer has a faster effect<br />
but it only lasts in the soil for approximately a month,<br />
again depending on the weather.<br />
LAWnS 1
LAWnS<br />
1<br />
LAWnS PLAntinG & CAre<br />
SEEDING AND SODDING NEW LAWNS<br />
Preparation for a New Lawn: Prior to sowing lawn seed<br />
or laying sod you must first establish a desirable slope and grade<br />
in your yard. In order to prevent basement water problems slope<br />
the soil away from your house. Remember that gentle slopes<br />
are easier to maintain than steep slopes and that the installation<br />
of poured sidewalks, patios, and large trees is best done before<br />
planting a lawn. It is also a good idea to leave shrub and flower<br />
beds unsodded. This will eliminate unnecessary sod removal<br />
when you are ready to landscape.<br />
If you have less than 15-20 cm. of good quality topsoil in your yard you<br />
need additional soil. Purchase screened loam and spread it evenly over<br />
the previously graded subsoil. It is important to level and pack the soil<br />
surface before planting a lawn. Use a landscape rake to level the soil<br />
surface evenly smooth. Then, pack the soil with a lawn roller until the<br />
soil is firm. Finally, apply Root Grow (10-30-10) fertilizer at a rate of five<br />
kilograms per 100 square meters. At this point you are ready to seed<br />
or sod your new lawn.<br />
Seeding: Almost all lawns in the prairies consist of various mixtures of<br />
Kentucky Bluegrass and Creeping Red Fescue. Some lawn mixes also<br />
contain Ryegrass; this grass germinates quickly to stabilize the area,<br />
but dies out after the first season. As a general rule, a blend or mixture,<br />
under average growing conditions will prove the most successful, and<br />
withstand the widest range of conditions. <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong>s supplies several<br />
types of excellent quality grass mix. We also carry individual cultivars<br />
for specific locations.<br />
Kentucky Bluegrass - Easy to grow in a sunny location, but suffers<br />
from summer heat if mowed too close. It is disease prone and requires<br />
more fertilizer and dethatching and does not tolerate drought. Kentucky<br />
Bluegrass is coarser textured than fescue, stands up better to high traffic,<br />
and requires more fertilizer at least twice a year.<br />
Creeping Red Fescue - Mixes well with other seed species such as<br />
Kentucky Bluegrass. It is a quick germinating, fine textured, deep green<br />
grass. It grows well in shade and has a medium fertilizer requirement.<br />
Creeping Red Fescue does not hold up as well to high traffic. Best<br />
results are achieved if lawns are seeded in the spring or fall following<br />
the directions listed below. When seeding, make sure an adequate<br />
supply of water is supplied.<br />
How Much Seed is Required: To determine how much seed<br />
you will need, measure the length and width of the plot to be seeded<br />
and multiply one measurement by the other; to calculate the area. If<br />
for example, the plot to be seeded is 10 m. (38 ft.) long by 8 m. (26 ft.)<br />
wide the area of the plot to be seeded equals 80 sq. m. (858 sq. ft.).<br />
Check the package of lawn seed to determine how much seed will be<br />
required to cover the plot in question. Do not try to spread lawn seed<br />
further than suggested on the package. If you skimp on lawn seed<br />
your lawn will look bare and unattractive. Likewise do not over seed in<br />
attempt to create a more dense lawn.<br />
1. Use a drop seeder to evenly spread 2.5 kg. of seed over 100<br />
square meters. It is best to set the spreader at half this rate and apply<br />
the seed in two passes at right angles to each other.
2. After seeding apply a thin layer of peat moss over the entire<br />
area. This helps retain moisture and holds the seed to ensure a quality<br />
product.<br />
3. Lay sod, usually purchased in 50 centimeter by 2 meter rolls, so<br />
that the end seams are staggered. Be sure to fit the seams together tightly.<br />
Trim the sod with a sharp knife where it meets sidewalks or other objects<br />
and fill in any gaps with soil or peat moss. Roll the sod with a lawn roller<br />
to ensure good contact between the grass roots and the soil. Water the<br />
newly sodded area thoroughly, two to three hours per area, three to four<br />
times per week. Keep the sod consistently moist until there are significant<br />
signs of new growth.<br />
CARING FOR ESTABLISHED LAWNS:<br />
Spring Clean-Up: Once the snow has melted, the ground has thawed,<br />
and the soil has dried enough to cultivate, it is time to prepare your lawn<br />
for spring.<br />
1. Remove dead grass, thatch, leaves, and debris from your lawn with<br />
a hand or power rake. For best results rake your lawn twice in directions<br />
that are at right angles to each other.<br />
2. Apply a high nitrogen, slow release fertilizer; spreading it evenly over<br />
the entire lawn. Consult <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> staff for information on the various<br />
types of lawn fertilizer we sell and the recommended fertilizer application<br />
rates. Weed and Feed fertilizers and weed sprays such as Killex are most<br />
effective when applied during warm weather when weeds are actively<br />
growing.<br />
3. Water the entire lawn thoroughly so that the water penetrates to<br />
a depth of 10 to 15 cm. This encourages the development of a deep<br />
root system which is capable of maintaining the grass during dry spells.<br />
Lawns become green when soil warms up; south exposures will green<br />
up more quickly than north exposures. To maintain this spring green<br />
appearance continue to fertilize and water your lawn throughout the<br />
summer months.<br />
Fertilizing: For best results fertilize your lawn four times a year: early<br />
spring (April-May), early summer (June-July), late summer (August-<br />
September), and early fall (September-October). Fall fertilizer applications<br />
are important. The slow release, low nitrogen fertilizer you apply in the fall<br />
develops strong roots which enables the grass to over winter well. Fall<br />
fertilizers are stored in the root system over the winter and provide nutrients<br />
for early spring growth. For this reason the fall is also a good time to control<br />
perennial weeds. As nutrients are being stored in the root system of your<br />
lawn, herbicides can likewise be moved into the extensive root systems<br />
of perennial weeds. Spring and summer fertilizer applications replace<br />
the nitrogen you remove constantly, every time you mow your lawn. A<br />
constant source of suitable nutrients and adequate moisture is all your<br />
lawn requires to remain green and actively growing.<br />
Watering: All garden plants, including your lawn, require regular irrigation.<br />
Less frequent, deep watering is better than light, frequent waterings.<br />
Except during rainy periods, water your lawn once a week for 1-2 hours<br />
per area.<br />
Mowing: In the spring, once your lawn has grown to about 5 cm tall, it is<br />
time to start mowing. Set the mower to cut at a height of 4-6 cm and mow<br />
the lawn. It is a good practice to cut the lawn before the mower has to cut<br />
off more than 2 cm. Don’t mow your lawn in the same direction every time<br />
you mow. By mowing in the opposite direction to your last mow you can<br />
obtain a more even cut and prevent lines form forming in your lawn. If you<br />
are meticulous about your lawn mow it twice. By mowing twice, in opposite<br />
directions, you can attain an evenly cut, manicured lawn.<br />
Preparing Your Lawn for Winter: A little preparation in the fall<br />
encourages early spring growth in your lawn. As the days get shorter<br />
and the temperatures drop your lawn will stop growing. Now is the time<br />
to mow your lawn for one last time. Set your mower to cut 1-2 cm lower<br />
than normal, mow the entire lawn, apply a slow release nitrogen winter<br />
formulation fertilizer, and then water the entire lawn thoroughly. This will<br />
ensure an ample supply of nutrients and moisture for early spring growth. If<br />
fall turns into an Indian Summer and the lawn dries out, continue watering<br />
your lawn until freeze up. Remember to drain outside taps or any items<br />
that are stored outside; for example, sprinklers, nozzles, or hoses. These<br />
articles can be seriously damaged by freezing water.<br />
Renovating Old Lawns: Older, poorly cared for lawns will eventually<br />
require renovation. To renovate such lawns, aerate the entire lawn using<br />
a plug removing core aerator; rather than one that simply slices holes.<br />
This enables air, water, and nutrients to penetrate the soil surface to reach<br />
the root zone. Over the surface of the area, evenly spread a thin (1-2 cm<br />
thick) coat of peat moss, topsoil or Soil Booster. Using a grass seeder,<br />
spread lawn seed at a rate of 1.5 kg per 100 square meters over the<br />
entire area. Now fertilizer the area with a high nitrogen lawn food following<br />
the manufacturer’s recommended application rate. Finally water the area<br />
thoroughly; allowing 2-3 hours per area. The combined growth of the old<br />
grass and the newly seeded grass will produce a quality lawn you can<br />
be proud of.<br />
Turfgrass Terms:<br />
SPECIES - a group of plants that are able to interbreed such as Kentucky<br />
Bluegrass (Poa pratensis), or Creeping Red Fescue (Festuca rubra).<br />
CULTIVARS - cultivated varieties including Baron, Fylking, Glade, Nugget<br />
or Regent of Kentucky Bluegrass<br />
BLEND - a combination of seeds of 2 or more cultivars of a single turfgrass<br />
species such as Kentucky bluegrass<br />
MIXTURE - a combination of seeds of 2 or more species such as<br />
Kentucky Bluegrass and Creeping Red Fescue<br />
Lawn Rollers<br />
&<br />
Fertilizer Spreaders<br />
are available<br />
for rent at our store.<br />
Ask at Customer<br />
Service for more<br />
details.<br />
LAWnS 1
LAnDSCAPinG<br />
1 0<br />
LAnDSCAPinG DeSiGn tiPS<br />
The general principles for good yard and garden design remain<br />
the same no matter where in the world you are landscaping.<br />
Landscaping involves the creation of an attractive plant display in<br />
such a way that the available space is used economically. Listed<br />
below are the general considerations or basic rules necessary to<br />
design a landscape that suits your particular needs.<br />
1. Organize yourself by preparing a working design on paper<br />
first. It is much easier to move trees and shrubs around on<br />
paper than to transplant misplaced plants later.<br />
2. Consider the requirements for maintenance-free landscaping<br />
in the planning stage. Weeding and watering can be reduced<br />
considerably if you plan ahead. By using landscape<br />
fabrics, lawn edgings, and ground covers weeding is much<br />
less and easier. Installed soaker lines or underground<br />
sprinkler systems not only reduce watering requirements<br />
but also considerably reduce water wastage. The result of<br />
planning ahead and installing these labor saving devices<br />
is a more attractive landscape with reduced maintenance<br />
requirements.<br />
3. Use natural angles and curves in construction and planting<br />
rather than straight lines. Straight lines are monotonous in<br />
flat, regular, rectangular yards.<br />
4. Use plant material to cover unattractive foundations, corners<br />
and fences. Planting in this way creates a natural looking<br />
landscape.<br />
5. Avoid overplanting, one of the biggest problems in home<br />
landscaping. Overplanting leads to the need for extensive<br />
pruning or even the removal of some plants once the<br />
landscape matures. Overplanting occurs when fast results<br />
are desired, when you compensate for an initial lack of color,<br />
and when you fail to foresee the ultimate size and shape of<br />
small, young plants.<br />
6. Create interesting landscapes by grouping similar plants<br />
into compact groups or by grouping unlike plants into<br />
complementary arrangements. In the latter case space the<br />
plants further apart, allowing room for each plant to develop<br />
individually. Avoid planting single specimens in a haphazard<br />
manner.<br />
7. Arrange plants so that their colors contrast or complement<br />
one another. Plan for color during the dormant season<br />
by using at least one-third evergreen material. Use plant<br />
material which has attractive fall leaf color or winter stem<br />
color. Burning Bush and Red Osier Dogwood are respective<br />
examples.<br />
8. Use perennial and annual flowers, in combination with<br />
trees and shrubs, to add color during the growing season.<br />
Do not attempt to replace trees and shrubs with perennial<br />
and annual flowers.<br />
9. Consider the different microclimates within your yard. Select<br />
site specific plants tolerant of the various conditions in<br />
your yard. The <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> staff will be glad to assist you<br />
in selecting plant material for the sunny, shady, or windy<br />
location in your yard.
XeriSCAPinG<br />
In spite of the unusually wet spring of 2005, Southern Alberta<br />
remains very dry. We need several years of above normal<br />
precipitation spread throughout the year to replenish ground<br />
moisture. Intelligent and responsible water usage is required if we<br />
wish to have beautiful and productive gardens and landscapes.<br />
This section is a brief guide on gardening in our generally dry<br />
conditions.<br />
Lawns<br />
Dry weather can take its toll on lawns in particular, or at least on<br />
the person caring for the lawn. Nobody likes to see his or her lush<br />
green grass slowly become sparse and brown. There are ways of<br />
coping with this problem instead of simply giving up. In order to<br />
conserve water the following steps can be followed.<br />
Know Your Irrigation System<br />
Maintain your irrigation system and use it effectively. Make sure<br />
sprinkler heads are working properly and not leaking or wasting<br />
water. Avoid having heads spray onto the pavement or road. To<br />
find out exactly how much water you are putting down place empty<br />
margarine containers on the lawn to catch the water. Time how long<br />
it takes to fill the containers with ½ inch of water. Irrigate twice as<br />
long to provide sufficient moisture: about 1 in. of water. If surface<br />
run-off occurs, stop irrigating that area until water soaks in then<br />
water again until the area has received about 1 in. and is soaked<br />
to a depth of about 4-6 in. (10-15cm). Reduce evaporation; water<br />
at night or in the early morning.<br />
Strengthen Your Grass<br />
Even when there are no watering restrictions, infrequent deep<br />
waterings are recommended in order to help create stronger,<br />
deeper root systems. Most lawns can easily wait 7 days or longer<br />
between waterings. Avoid a set schedule and prevent the lawn<br />
from ‘expecting’ water at a certain time. Wait until you footprints<br />
are easily visible in the grass and/or the lawn takes on a blue-green<br />
color. If there are no water restrictions apply about 1 inch of water<br />
across the entire lawn, moving your sprinkler as necessary. Wait<br />
until you see signs of water stress again (footprints, blue-gray color)<br />
before re-watering. If only small areas are dry then hand water with<br />
a hose or watering can. Another way to help your grass prepare<br />
for drought situations is to avoid heavy nitrogen fertilization. Lush,<br />
fast-growing grass requires more water and fares poorly in dry<br />
weather. Apply nitrogen fertilizer once in the spring, once in midsummer,<br />
and once in the fall. Water thoroughly after fertilizing. It<br />
also helps to let your lawn grow to about 3 in. The longer grass<br />
blades create more food and build stronger grass plants. Finally,<br />
and this may be the hardest task of all, try to accept the fact that<br />
you lawn may be less than perfect.<br />
Preparing the Lawn for Water Restrictions<br />
If water restrictions are expected avoid planting new lawns by seed<br />
or with sod and reduce or cease any planned nitrogen applications.<br />
To help conserve moisture keep your grass as long as your mower<br />
will allow. Do not keep the soil moist in anticipation of a drought;<br />
instead water deeply as infrequently as possible; your lawn will be<br />
stronger going into any drought situation.<br />
What to do During a Drought<br />
Don’t Panic! If you have prepared your grass by following the<br />
above instructions it should make it through the dry spell. The<br />
lawn may not appear as attractive as you would like but it is still<br />
alive. In order to help the grass through this stressful period<br />
restrict foot traffic as this can easily damage the plants. Do not<br />
apply chemicals (fertilizers, pesticides, or fungicides) and stop<br />
mowing once the grass stops growing. In a worst case scenario<br />
(total water restrictions) the grass will begin to go dormant. Again,<br />
don’t panic! Kentucky Bluegrass can and does survive a whole<br />
summer without irrigation. Naturally, the lawn will be brown but<br />
it is not dead. Fine fescue lawns will also survive in a dormant<br />
state but tall fescue and perennial rye grass do not fare as well.<br />
Once the drought is over and watering goes back to normal the<br />
grass will begin to return to its original state, greening up quite<br />
quickly in the case of Kentucky Bluegrass.<br />
XeriSCAPinG 1 1
XeriSCAPinG<br />
1 2<br />
XeriSCAPinG GArDenS<br />
Vegetable <strong>Garden</strong>ing in Dry Weather<br />
Unfortunately vegetables, unlike your lawn, do not go dormant<br />
when water supplies run low. However, there are a number of<br />
methods you can employ to reduce the water requirements.<br />
Amend the Soil<br />
Adding soil amendments such as compost or manure will increase<br />
the quality of the soil along with water retention. If you plan on<br />
applying manure use a composted not raw form in the fall, allowing<br />
it to break down further over the winter. Zeolite’s open<br />
structure is especially effective in retaining water and breaking<br />
down clay soils.<br />
Irrigation<br />
The best form of irrigation for vegetable gardens is drip or trickle<br />
irrigation that can reduce water usage by about 50%. The soaker<br />
hose, not to be confused with the sprinkler hose, is the best<br />
method of drip irrigation, allowing water to seep out the length<br />
of the hose at a slow and constant rate. To ensure that you do<br />
not overwater check the soil regularly. If it holds together when<br />
you squeeze it in your hand it is moist and watering should be<br />
delayed.<br />
There are a few other methods that can be applied to save water.<br />
Plant in blocks instead of rows; this creates shade for the roots<br />
and reduces evaporation. Be vigilant with the weeding since<br />
weeds compete with your vegetables for water. Finally, a layer<br />
of mulch can help conserve moisture. Place organic material on<br />
the garden to a depth of 2 to 3 inches (the larger the particle of<br />
mulch the deeper the layer) in late spring. The best mulch is a<br />
thin layer of grass clippings with no herbicide or weed and feed<br />
or pesticides or even fertilizer recently applied. Allow each<br />
layer to dry before adding more.<br />
Flowers<br />
The most important element in growing flowers in a dry area or<br />
in practicing water conservation is the soil. Most flowers perform<br />
poorly on heavy clay as oxygen levels are lower around their<br />
roots. On the other hand, sandy soils do not hold water well.<br />
If either is the case you can begin to improve your soil through<br />
the addition of compost and/or peat moss and zeolite. If this is<br />
your first year amending either an old, uncared for bed or a new<br />
poor garden, plant annuals the first season. It will be easier to<br />
cultivate and incorporate organic material after the plants are<br />
killed by frost.<br />
In addition to having a good growing medium it is important to<br />
know your plants. Make sure you plant flowers that are appropriate<br />
for the place you want them to grow. For example, plant<br />
shade-tolerant plants like canterbury bells or columbines in shady<br />
areas or plant yarrow or baby’s breath in dry, sunny areas. This<br />
way you won’t be fighting to keep a plant that likes it moist alive<br />
in a dry area and vice versa.<br />
Annuals & Bulbs<br />
Most annuals will do well in dry gardens that have decent soil,<br />
needing only one to two inches of water per week. The best<br />
bedding out plants for hot areas are marigolds, zinnias, alyssum,<br />
and bachelor’s button. Spring-flowering bulbs do most of their<br />
growing when the season is moister and cooler.<br />
Know Your Plants<br />
If you know when your vegetables need the most water<br />
you can target them at that time, shifting focus from one<br />
in favor of another if necessary. The following is a partial<br />
list of crops and when they require water the most:<br />
Broccoli, Cabbage, and Cauliflower<br />
- Generally need water most of the season. Water use<br />
is highest when the heads are forming.<br />
Beans<br />
- need a constant supply of water. These plants uses<br />
the most water of any garden vegetable. On dry windy<br />
days blossoms can easily fall. To tell if your beans<br />
are experiencing water stress look at the leaves. If<br />
they are grayish then apply water.<br />
Carrots, Radishes, Etc.<br />
- need a constant supply of water otherwise they will<br />
crack, get knobby, and/or take on hot flavor.<br />
Lettuce, Spinach, and other Leafy Vegetables<br />
- water use is most during head development but for<br />
quality they need a constant supply of water.<br />
Onion, Garlic<br />
- need plenty of moisture.<br />
Peas<br />
- need lots of water especially during pod growth<br />
Potatoes<br />
- dry conditions cause tubers to become knobby<br />
- supply adequate moisture during and after<br />
flowering<br />
Tomatoes and Peppers<br />
- tomatoes and peppers actually have a lower watering<br />
requirement than many vegetables and tend to get<br />
overwatered. Too much watering can lead to blossom<br />
end rot where the bottom of the fruit turns black<br />
and sunken. Consistent watering is best for these<br />
plants.
XeriSCAPinG treeS & SHrUBS<br />
Of all our garden plants trees and shrubs are perhaps the most<br />
neglected. We are not normally aware that they face the same<br />
sorts of troubles that our showier garden plants face. A tree under<br />
drought stress, and many of them<br />
are in Calgary, is not as obvious Leaf Curl<br />
as a dried up petunia. It can take<br />
up to two years for the full impact<br />
of drought to become noticeable<br />
in a tree. Some things you should<br />
look for are wilting, leaf curl, and<br />
yellowing. Deciduous trees may<br />
develop leaf scorch, brown-edged<br />
leaves, and/or browning between<br />
leaf veins. Evergreen needles may<br />
turn yellow, red, or even purple and<br />
browning may be seen throughout<br />
the needle. Drought stress may not Leaf Browning<br />
kill the tree but can severely weaken<br />
it, leaving it open to insect infestations<br />
or disease as in the case of<br />
birch leaf miners.<br />
Watering<br />
Most trees in Calgary are underwatered<br />
but following these steps will<br />
help to give your tree the moisture it<br />
needs. Water to a depth of 12 inches<br />
by saturating the soil from the trunk<br />
or main stems out to and beyond dripline, (the outer edge of the<br />
branches). In the case of evergreens, water three to five feet<br />
beyond the dripline. Slow, long watering encourages deep roots<br />
which leads to better drought tolerance. If or when there are<br />
dry periods trees should take precedence over your lawn.<br />
A 25-year old tree takes 25 years to replace – a lawn takes<br />
a few months. Move the sprinkler/soaker hose around during<br />
watering to ensure total coverage. To water the entire root area<br />
at once, use a long soaker hose coiled several times around the<br />
tree and out towards the dripline and beyond. Trees generally<br />
need two to three deep waterings per month following the above<br />
guidelines to receive adequate moisture.<br />
Winter Watering and Mulching<br />
As a result of our warm dry winters and lack of snow cover our<br />
trees and shrubs need periodic watering during the winter. Generally,<br />
water one to two times per month October though April<br />
on a warm day when the ground is not frozen but when freezing<br />
temperatures are forecast. Follow the above summer watering<br />
method. As water freezes in the soil, it will keep roots from drying<br />
out and stabilize winter soil temperatures, improving winter<br />
survival. It also helps to mulch the root area of plants that are<br />
exposed to warm winter sun and Chinook winds. Mulch protects<br />
shallow roots from winter damage and prevents premature spring<br />
growth.<br />
Planting Trees in Dry Periods<br />
Plant trees during dry periods as you would during normal<br />
weather - just be careful not to let them dry out. Plant smaller<br />
trees (2 in. caliper or less for deciduous or 5-6<br />
ft. tall for evergreens). This helps reduce financial<br />
risk if any are lost. This size of tree usually<br />
adapts better to dry weather than a larger one.<br />
Use Myke Tree & Shrub growth supplement to<br />
help establish vigorous root systems that will<br />
stand up to drought in the future.<br />
Needle Browning<br />
Trees & Shrubs That Perform<br />
Well in Dry Areas<br />
Deciduous Trees<br />
Bur Oak – Quercus macrocarpa<br />
Chokecherry - Prunus virginiana var.<br />
Elm - Ulmus americana ‘Brandon’<br />
Green Ash - Fraxinus pennslyvanica<br />
Russian Olive - Elaeagnus angustifolia<br />
Snowbird Hawthorn - Crataegus mordensis<br />
Evergreen Trees and Shrubs<br />
Junipers – Juniperus spp. - especially blue upright and<br />
blue spreading types<br />
Pine - Pinus spp. ie. Bristlecone, Mugo, Ponderosa,<br />
Scots<br />
Spruce - Colorado Blue (Picea pungens ‘Glauca’)<br />
Deciduous Shrubs<br />
Caragana – Caragana spp.<br />
<strong>Golden</strong> Currant – Ribes aureum<br />
Honeysuckle - Lonicera spp., Diervilla lonicera<br />
Pavement Roses - Rosa rugosa hybrids<br />
Preston Lilac and Late Lilac – Syringa spp.<br />
Sea Buckthorn - Hippophae ramnoides<br />
Silver Buffaloberry – Shepherdia argentea<br />
Snowberry - Symphoricarpos albus<br />
Wolf Willow - Elaeagnus commutata<br />
XeriSCAPinG 1
SoiL<br />
1<br />
SoiL yoUr qUeStionS<br />
Q: What is the difference between vermiculite and<br />
perlite?<br />
A: Perlite is a naturally occurring volcanic rock that<br />
expands when heated. Vermiculite is also a mineral and it<br />
too expands when heated. The finished expanded product<br />
is what you buy from the store. Both provide aeration and<br />
drainage and both retain water for release later. Perlite<br />
has a neutral pH and lasts longer than vermiculite which<br />
holds more water than perlite.<br />
Q: Why should I use manure? What is the best<br />
kind?<br />
A: Manure contains the primary nutrients (nitrogen,<br />
phosphorous, and potassium) but in small amounts and<br />
should be supplemented with fertilizer. Manures are,<br />
however, usually an excellent source of vital secondary<br />
elements like sulphur, calcium, and magnesium and<br />
micronutrients such as zinc, boron, iron, and copper.<br />
Manure’s most important use is as a soil conditioner; it<br />
retains moisture in sandy soil and helps aerate clay soil.<br />
The best manure for a spring application is pre-composted<br />
mushroom manure. It is better to apply steer and sheep<br />
manure in the fall, allowing it to compost during the<br />
winter.<br />
Q: What is the best mulch to use and why? How<br />
do I apply it?<br />
A: Putting down a layer of shredded wood, wood<br />
chips, or bark on your garden beds is good for a<br />
number of reasons. Mulch helps keep the soil an<br />
even temperature in summer and winter, it aids in<br />
moisture retention, it inhibits weed growth, and it<br />
makes your garden look more attractive. The best<br />
time to apply or top up your mulch is in the fall after<br />
the first hard frost but it can be put down any time<br />
at a depth of 2-4 inches. Shredded wood/bark is<br />
probably the best choice as it holds moisture better<br />
than wood chips and the lower layers decay more<br />
readily, adding composted material directly to the<br />
garden beds.<br />
Q: What is the difference between loam and topsoil?<br />
A: The word ‘topsoil’ actually means whatever soil is found<br />
on the surface of the land in any particular region. This ‘soil’<br />
can range from mostly sand to mostly clay. Loam falls in the<br />
middle, containing clay, silt, sand, and organic materials.<br />
This is what is usually meant by ‘topsoil’. Commercial<br />
topsoil is usually loam.<br />
Q: Why is there no soil in potting soil?<br />
A: Technically ‘soil’ refers to any growing medium which<br />
means that potting soil can be considered a ‘soil’. What<br />
most people mean to ask is “Why is there no loam in<br />
potting soil?” Potting soil is specifically formulated for<br />
growing plants in containers. It is much lighter in texture,<br />
containing a mix of fine and coarse particles which allow<br />
for drainage and air circulation. Loam, though excellent in<br />
the garden and in farmers’ fields, holds too much water and<br />
not enough air for successful container gardening. Most<br />
potting soils are made up of peat moss, vermiculite, and<br />
perlite but some will also have earthworm castings, water<br />
retaining crystals for hanging baskets, and fertilizer.<br />
Q: What are the benefits of adding compost to my<br />
garden?<br />
A: The most important thing compost adds is organic<br />
material. This improves the way water interacts with the<br />
soil. For example, in sandy soils compost helps retain<br />
water while in clay soils it actually improves drainage.<br />
Compost also innoculates the soil which means that it<br />
adds large quantities of beneficial microbes like bacteria<br />
and fungi. These microbes extract nutrients from the<br />
mineral part of the soil and eventually pass the nutrients<br />
on to plants. For further information, particularly on how<br />
to start and maintain your own compost, please see our<br />
composting section.<br />
Q: What is Zeolite soil conditioner?<br />
A: Zeolite is a natural volcanic mineral that does not break<br />
down like organic material. Once you work it into the soil it<br />
will remain active for years. The sharp edges of the zeolite<br />
break down clay and allow air and moisture to both reach<br />
and leave the soil. When zeolite is turned into the soil its<br />
open structure interacts with other minerals to improve<br />
the soil. It also balances soil pH by locking away alkali<br />
contaminants, allowing nutrients such as nitrogen, calcium,<br />
iron, and magnesium to reach the plants. Zeolite will lock<br />
away water, releasing it during dry spells as well.
ComPoStinG<br />
What is composting?<br />
Composting is a natural biochemical process of decay in which<br />
bacteria, fungi, worms, and other small organisms in the soil<br />
decompose organic matter. This breakdown of kitchen and<br />
yard waste results in a dark, earth-smelling, nutrient-rich, soil<br />
conditioner known as humus or compost.<br />
Why compost?<br />
Composting is an easy way to return organic material to the soil.<br />
It conditions soil and improves plant growth. Another reason<br />
for composting is to reduce the amount of organic matter going<br />
to landfill sites. Kitchen and yard waste makes up about 33%<br />
of residential solid waste. If you compost, and also recycle<br />
newspapers, bottles and cans; it will help reduce the amount of<br />
household garbage going to landfill sites.<br />
Compost Enclosures<br />
In the city, most people want a compost pile enclosed, to keep it<br />
tidy and inconspicuous. This can be as simple as wooden slats,<br />
with spaces between for air circulation, or chicken wire, supported<br />
by wooden fence posts at the corners. There are also plastic<br />
compost bins, made from recycled<br />
plastic, which are unobtrusive, tidy, and<br />
retain heat and moisture. Ideal size for<br />
a compost pile is about a metre (yard)<br />
cube. Many people have two bins<br />
side-by-side, so that they can add to<br />
one while the other full one is finishing<br />
the composting process. It should be<br />
in an area with good air circulation,<br />
and a sunny, warm spot will enable<br />
it to work faster, but is not absolutely<br />
necessary. In a cool, shady spot it will<br />
just take longer.<br />
Starting a Compost Pile<br />
Start with a layer of brush cuttings<br />
from pruning, or coarse vegetable<br />
matter. Add layers of grass clippings<br />
and other fresh, green material, then<br />
layers of dry, brown material, such<br />
as sawdust, tea bags, coffee grounds<br />
or dry leaves. Manures, fertilizers,<br />
compost activators or soil will speed<br />
up decomposing assuming the pile is<br />
kept damp but not wet.<br />
Maintaining a Compost Pile<br />
Composting requires good air circulation, the material must be<br />
damp but not wet, and there must be a layer of green, damp<br />
material and dry, brown material. The pile must be turned<br />
periodically to enable oxygen to reach the material in the centre.<br />
It should be covered if there is a lot of rain. If the compost pile<br />
has an unpleasant odor, then it is too wet. Be sure it has good<br />
drainage at the bottom, add more dry material, cover to protect<br />
from rain, and turn more frequently. You may also need to sprinkle<br />
it with water if the weather is hot and dry. The heat developing<br />
in the pile kills bacteria, and also indicates that decomposition<br />
is taking place. Cover kitchen wastes with soil or other material<br />
to avoid attracting pets and rodents. Plastic containers with lids<br />
prevent this problem.<br />
What You Can Compost<br />
Kitchen food wastes such as vegetable trimmings, fruit peels,<br />
tea bags, grass clippings, dead plants, pruning clippings and<br />
sawdust.<br />
What You Can Not Compost<br />
Meat, fat or bones. Weeds with seeds present that could<br />
germinate where you don't want them. Grass clippings that have<br />
been sprayed with weed killer.<br />
Using the Compost<br />
Usually a compost pile is started in the spring, when there is a<br />
great deal of refuse to clean up. Organic matter is added until<br />
the pile contains as much as it can and still have room to turn.<br />
By fall this is a crumbly, dark, earthy soil - like material that is<br />
very useful to condition flower and vegetable beds, to use as a<br />
mulch for winter protection or moisture preservation, or improve<br />
the soil for new beds. When you have used the compost you have<br />
made, fall clean-up material can be used to start a new batch. It<br />
will decompose until the weather becomes too cold, then begin<br />
again in the spring and become the basis of the pile for the next<br />
year. For further information, there are several good books on<br />
composting in the bookstore.<br />
ComPoStinG 1
• lawns • flowergarden • vegetable gardens • evergreens • trees • shrubs<br />
• planters • indoor tropical plants • deck planters • lawn patch • fridge odors<br />
• odor control in cat litter and dog runs • compost pile • chemical spill clean-up<br />
use anywhere in the garden and beyond<br />
Benefits<br />
- overall soil characteristics<br />
- water holding capability<br />
- absorbs toxins from the soil<br />
- loosens and aerates hard clay soils<br />
- reduces amounts of fertilizer used<br />
- naturally adjusts the pH of the soil<br />
- remains stable and does not break down<br />
- odor absorbing qualities<br />
- accelerates established root zones<br />
- lowers nutrient leachate loss<br />
- 100% natural and ecologically safe<br />
Results<br />
- stronger, deeper more robust root zones<br />
- maintainance in hot weather is easier with less<br />
watering time<br />
- reduced fertilizing costs<br />
- healthier and more productive plants<br />
- greatly improved water retention in soils<br />
- reduced salts and toxic metals in soil<br />
- controls odors in your compost bin<br />
Zeolite has many different uses in and around<br />
your home and garden
nUtrientS zeoLite<br />
ZEOLITE, not to be confused with ZONALITE, has been used<br />
in industrial, agricutural, and livestock feed applications for a<br />
number of years but is relatively new to the gardening<br />
community. Zeolite is available at <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> in it's<br />
pure form, in soil-less planting mixes and in Gypszeolite<br />
(a blend of gypsum and Zeolite)<br />
Zeolite is an extraordinary product with a multitude of<br />
uses above and beyond gardening, many of which are<br />
listed below. It is a natural volcanic mineral formed when<br />
volcanic ash was deposited in ancient alkali lakes. The ash<br />
interacted with the salts in the<br />
water, creating<br />
zeolite minerals.<br />
These minerals<br />
have an unusual<br />
c r y s t a l l i n e<br />
structure; trace<br />
minerals like<br />
p o t a s s i u m ,<br />
calcium, iron,<br />
and magnesium<br />
a r e a r r a n g e d<br />
t h r o u g h o u t<br />
the mineral in<br />
honeycombs of<br />
c h a n n e l s a n d<br />
cavities. This open structure greatly increases the surface are<br />
within the mineral, giving it amazing absorbing capabilities. One<br />
of the most, if not the most, important aspect of zeolites is that<br />
they are able to exchange positively charged ions allowing them<br />
to absorb harmful elements from the water, soil, or air. Zeolites<br />
can remove calcium from hard water by exchanging sodium<br />
ions for calcium ions resulting in soft water and allowing natural<br />
calcium to be available to the plant. Zeolites can do this with<br />
many heavy metals and, because of these properties, are used<br />
extensively in industrial and environmental applications.<br />
Since zeolite is a mineral it does not break down like leaves,<br />
sawdust, or other organic material and it performs better than<br />
either gypsum or sand. Once zeolite has been worked into the<br />
soil it will remain for years absorbing any harmful or toxic<br />
elements. The sharp edges of its silica structure break up clay and<br />
increase air and moisture movement through the soil. Zeolites’<br />
open channels and cavities increase it’s surface area more<br />
than 100 times greater than sand allowing for excellent water<br />
absorption when wet and water release when the soil around it<br />
begins to dry.<br />
Horticultural Use<br />
Zeolite can be used in all gardening situations. For tropical plants<br />
incorporate 20% zeolite into your soil-less mix to eliminate<br />
excess salts from fertilizers. It can be especially helpful in the<br />
lawn, increasing the roots of the grass, which means greater<br />
drought tolerance and faster recovery time from damage and<br />
disease. By opening the pores in the grass it softens the blades<br />
resulting in a more cushiony lawn. For lawns scatter 20 kg per 10<br />
m 2 /3530 ft 2 . For garden beds use 20<br />
kg per 10 m 2 /353 ft 2 . When applying<br />
to planters mix in about ½ an inch.<br />
The water-holding capacity of the soil<br />
will be greatly increased. Harmful<br />
metals and other elements will be<br />
locked away allowing the plants to<br />
receive the nutrients that they need.<br />
Clay soils will become lighter and<br />
more workable and much more air<br />
will reach the roots of the plants.<br />
Animal and Pet Uses<br />
Zeolite will create a healthier environment for<br />
your animals by locking away ammonia and<br />
other harmful and/or disagreeable chemicals. It<br />
is commonly used in horse stalls and feed lots for<br />
odor control. You can add it to cat litter to greatly<br />
reduce that lovely ammonia aroma and to deodorize<br />
doghouses and/or dog runs. Work in 1/4 inch layer<br />
prior to re-seeding dog spots to neutralize the area.<br />
Zeolites can be used in bird and small rodent cages<br />
and even for chinchilla baths. Finally, it is excellent<br />
for absorbing any pet accidents from the carpets<br />
or flooring.<br />
Household Uses<br />
Zeolites are excellent at absorbing odors and/or excess moisture.<br />
Place some in a small box as you would baking soda to reduce<br />
or eliminate odors in the fridge, cabinets, closets, shoe storage,<br />
and so on. It can eliminate freezer ice buildup by locking away<br />
excess moisture. A sachet placed in hockey bags, with sports<br />
equipment, in clothes hampers, or similar areas will greatly<br />
reduce odors.<br />
Absorbent Properties<br />
One of the best uses for zeolites is taking care of spills. Zeolites<br />
are highly absorbent and lock away chemicals, neutralizing<br />
dangerous materials. According to www.nationalzeolite.<br />
com zeolites can absorb, trap, or neutralize the following: acids,<br />
ammonia, antifreeze, bleach, blood, diesel fuel, Drano, gas from<br />
carpet glues, gasoline, lighter fluid, mold, oil, paint and paint<br />
thinner, many pesticides including sevin, Round-Up and Killex,<br />
oil stain, turpentine, WD40, and even urine. And this is only<br />
a partial list! There are many other spills and environmental<br />
contaminants that zeolites can contain and control.<br />
nUtrientS 1
Gypszeolites are natural minerals that do not breakdown<br />
like sawdust or leaves. The silica in gypszeolites breaks up<br />
clay soil by splitting the clay particles to allow air and moisture<br />
to move both ways. When gypszeolite in incorporated<br />
into the soil, its open structure and channels interact with<br />
other minerals to improve the soil. Gypszeolite's structure<br />
and high Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) attracts water<br />
and nutrients such as calcium, iron and magnesium, locking<br />
them up inside the gypszeolite and slowly releasing<br />
the water and nutrients as the plant requires them. The<br />
CEC of gypszeolite is 100 times greater than sand.<br />
Gypszeolite also reduces the soil pH as it absorbs excess<br />
calcium, magnesium, sodium and other alkaline-causing<br />
agents from the soil. When soil pH is corrected, the proper<br />
balance of nutrients becomes available for absorption by<br />
plant roots.<br />
This product holds moisture. Do not over water.<br />
Tropical Plants: Mix in 10% gypszeolite onto mix to<br />
eliminate salts due to excess fertilization. Makes for a<br />
finer rootsystem by splitting root hairs.<br />
Lawn: 10 kg per 100 sq. meters/1530sq. ft.<br />
Potting Mixes: Mix 5% gypszeolite into potting soil.<br />
Vegetables: Make row and slightly scatter down row,<br />
seed and cover.<br />
Bulbs, Tubers, Potatoes, and Perennials: Mix a small<br />
handful of gypszeolite in and around plants<br />
Small Trees (evergreens and shrubs up to 5 gal): one cup<br />
mixed in and around root zone<br />
Large Trees (7 gallon up to caliper trees): mix two cups<br />
in and around root zone<br />
Other Uses<br />
Dog Runs: Sprinkle one pound (454 grams/2 cups) per<br />
100 sq. ft./9.30 sq. meters)<br />
Gypszeolite can also be added to dog urine spots on lawn.<br />
Cover spot with mix of grass seed, peat moss, loam, and<br />
gypszeolite.<br />
Composting Piles: add 1-2 cups (252-454 grams) per<br />
layer of pile to aid in keeping odors down.
nUtrientS<br />
Major Elements<br />
(Macro Nutrients)<br />
Functional Uses In Plant Deficiency Symptoms<br />
Nitrogen (N) Growth and development of green leaves Chlorosis of older, lower leaves; stunting<br />
and stems; component of most proteins<br />
Phosphorus (P) Promotes root growth and development; Purplish coloration; stunted root growth<br />
energy storage and transfer within plant<br />
Potassium (K) Improves cold hardiness, drought tolerance Poor flowering and fruit formation;<br />
and disease resistance; promotes blooms brown leaf edges<br />
Sulphur (S) Component of 3 proteins and 2B vitamins; Chlorosis of younger leaves; stunting<br />
flavor of onion, garlic, and mustard; a fungicide<br />
Calcium (Ca) Promotes cell division, strong cell walls, Collapse of cell walls and structural failure;<br />
and sturdy structure curled leaf tips; stunting<br />
Magnesium (Mg) Component of chlorophyll; Marginal (edges) and interveinal (between<br />
essential for photosynthesis veins) chlorosis of older leaves<br />
Minor Elements<br />
(Micro Nutrients)<br />
Functional Uses In Plant<br />
Deficiency Symptoms<br />
Iron (Fe) Formation of chlorophyll Interveinal chlorosis of younger leaves<br />
Manganese (Mn) Helps in uptake of carbon dioxide which is Mottled interveinal chlorosis of leaves<br />
used for photosynthesis.<br />
Boron (B) Development of shoot tips and leaf bud; Tip growth die back and deformed buds<br />
formation and movement of sugars in plant<br />
Chlorine (Cl) Stimulates photosynthesis Wilting but rare because present in water<br />
Copper (Cu) Formation of chlorophyll and converting leaf chlorosis and shoot tip growth die<br />
sunlight into energy; also a fungicide back<br />
Molybdenum (Mo) Helps production and use of nitrogen Marginal and interveinal chlorosis of<br />
older leaves<br />
Zinc (Zn) Formation of growth hormones Mottled leaf chlorosis, little leaves;<br />
Rosetting<br />
nUtrientS 1
nUtrientS<br />
160<br />
nUtrientS<br />
Plant Type Nutrients Needed Some Recommended Fertilizers<br />
ANNUALS*<br />
* If using Myke® Annual & Perennial growth supplement (increases phosphorous uptake), use fertilizers with 15% or less phosphorous (5-15-5)<br />
Bedding Out Plants High phosphorous to Water soluble powder: Miracle Gro, Plant-Prod Flowering<br />
promote flowering. Liquid concentrate: Alaska MorBloom<br />
Granular: So-Green Rose and Flower, Smartcote Annual Food<br />
Hanging Baskets Treat as a bedding out Water soluble/liquid concentrate: see ‘Bedding Out Plants’<br />
plant or use slow-release Granular: Smartcote Hanging Basket Food<br />
fertilizer in the soil. Other: Jobe’s Plant Spikes<br />
Seedlings/Transplants High phosphorous for root Water soluble: Plant-Prod 10-52-10<br />
growth; a root stimulant Liquid concentrate: Plant Starter 5-15-5 with rooting stimulant<br />
is often required. Granular: Bone Meal, Root Grow<br />
Vegetables Less emphasis on nitrogen Water soluble: Plant-Prod Tomato & Vegetable<br />
except for leafy vegetables. Liquid concentrate: Schultz Tomato Food<br />
Granular: So-Green <strong>Garden</strong> Food or Tomato Food, Vigioro Pink<br />
All Purpose<br />
Water Plants Only trace elements are Pond tablets in the water at the rate of one per month will supply<br />
required. the necessary nutrients.<br />
PERENNIALS*<br />
* If using Myke® Bulb or Annual & Perennial growth supplement (increases phosphorous uptake), use fertilizers with 15% or less phosphorous (5-15-5)<br />
Bulbs Relatively high Water soluble: Plant-Prod Flowering, Miracle Gro<br />
(Spring & Summer) phosphorous fertilizer to Granular: Bone Meal<br />
encourage roots & flowers. Note: Bloodmeal helps keep some squirrels from feeding on<br />
bulbs.<br />
Perennials Need phosphorous for a Water soluble: Plant-Prod Flowering, Miracle Gro<br />
strong root system and Liquid concentrate: Alaska MorBloom, Shultz All Purpose<br />
potassium for healthy Granular: Bonemeal, So-Green Perennial Food, Smartcote<br />
growth. Perennial, Miracle Gro Shake-n-Feed<br />
Transplanting High phosphorous to Water soluble: Plant-Prod 10-52-10<br />
promote root growth Liquid concentrate: Plant Starter 5-15-5 with rooting stimulant<br />
Granular:Root Grow or Bone Meal, So-Green Super Phosphate<br />
Vines Require higher levels Water soluble: Miracle Gro, Plant-Prod Flowering<br />
of phosphorous. Liquid concentrate: Alaska MorBloom<br />
Granular: So-Green Clematis & Vine, Bone Meal when planting<br />
Winterizing Never add nitrogen A fertilizer without nitrogen will strengthen plants for better<br />
in fall as it encourages<br />
excess leafy growth.<br />
winter survival: Alaska MorBloom, So-Green Muriate of Potash<br />
TREES & SHRUBS*<br />
* If using Myke® Tree & Shrub growth supplement (increases natural phosphorous uptake), use fertilizers with 15% or less phosphorous (5-15-5)<br />
Deciduous Balanced nutrients Water soluble: Plant-Prod All Purpose, Miracle Gro<br />
are necessary Liquid concentrate: Schultz All Purpose<br />
Granular: Smartcote Shrub & Evergreen,<br />
Miracle Gro Shake-n-Feed<br />
Other: Tree/Shrub or Fruit Stakes, Ross Root Feeder Cartridges<br />
Evergreens Higher in nitrogen for Water soluble: Plant-Prod Evergreen<br />
for green growth. A soil Granular: Green Harvest Evergreen &Tree Food,<br />
acidifier is beneficial. So-Green Evergreen, Smartcote Shrub & Evergreen Food<br />
Other: Evergreen Tree Stakes, Ross Root Feeder Cartridges<br />
Acidifier: <strong>Garden</strong> Sulphur, Aluminum Sulphate<br />
Roses Need phosphorous for Water soluble: Miracle Gro, Plant-Prod Flowering<br />
rooting & blooming. Liquid concentrate: Schultz Rose Food<br />
Granular: So-Green Rose & Flower, Smartcote Rose Food,<br />
Alaska MorBloom
Plant Type Nutrients Needed Some Recommended Fertilizers<br />
TREES & SHRUBS* (continued)<br />
* If using Myke® Tree & shrub growth supplement (increases natural phosphorous uptake), use fertilizers with 15% or less phosphorous (5-15-5)<br />
Transplanting High phosphorous; Water soluble: Plant-Prod 10-52-10<br />
rooting stimulant Liquid concentrate: Plant Starter 5-15-5 with rooting stimulant<br />
Granular: Root Grow, Bone Meal,<br />
Smartcote Tree & Shrub Food<br />
Winterizing No nitrogen after Aug. 1 A fertilizer with no nitrogen will strengthen plants & give roots<br />
LAWNS<br />
Less nitrogen slows topgrowth<br />
and helps plant<br />
prepare for fall & winter.<br />
a slight boost. Alaska MorBloom, So-Green Muriate of Potash<br />
Spring & Summer In spring and summer Liquid concentrate: CIL Golfgreen Liquid, Scotts Feed-n-Gro<br />
higher nitrogen is required Granular: CIL Golfgreen, Scotts Turf Builder,<br />
Myke Lawn Fertilizer<br />
Winterizing Less nitrogen and more<br />
potassium strengthens<br />
grass plants for winter.<br />
Granular: CIL Winterizer, Scotts Fall-Wintercare<br />
HOUSEPLANTS<br />
nUtrientS<br />
Foliage Plants A balanced fertilizer Water soluble: Schultz All Purpose, Plant-Prod All Purpose<br />
Liquid concentrate: Schultz All Purpose<br />
Slow release: Jobe’s Houseplant or Fern & Ivy Spikes<br />
Flowering A moderately high Water soluble: Plant-Prod Flowering<br />
phosphorous level Liquid concentrate: Schultz All Purpose<br />
to promote flowering Slow release: Jobe’s Flowering Plant Spikes, Myke Indoor Plant<br />
African Violets Require phosphorous Liquid concentrate: Schultz African Violet<br />
for bloom production<br />
Orchids Water soluble: Schultz Orchid Food, Plant-Prod Orchid<br />
Cactus Cacti need less nitrogen Liquid concentrate: Schultz Cactus Food<br />
nUtrientS 161
BirDS<br />
162<br />
feeDinG & AttrACtinG BirDS<br />
More people enjoy bird watching than any other hobby except<br />
gardening. What a great combination; you can garden and<br />
enjoy the beauty and wildness of nature up close at the same<br />
time. Birds have four basic needs: food, water, protection from<br />
predators, and a place to raise their young safely.<br />
With water gardening becoming so popular you can be entertained<br />
by your fine-feathered friends in the showpiece you<br />
have created in your yard. The sound of gently moving water<br />
is extremely appealing to birds. In fact bird banders often lure<br />
them with dripping water. A birdbath is the easiest way to set<br />
up a water source in the garden. For the winter months, when<br />
water is not available, a bird bath heater is required, and appreciated<br />
by the birds.<br />
Plants are the most important element in the garden; to birds as<br />
well as to you. No matter what size your landscape is, whether<br />
formal or naturalistic in style, you can use plants to enhance its<br />
attractiveness to birds. The presence of trees or shrubs near a<br />
feeder is essential. Trees offer both food and protective cover<br />
Some of the trees and shrubs that attract birds are:<br />
BIRCH<br />
PLANT<br />
BLUEBERRY<br />
CHOKECHERRY<br />
COTONEASTER<br />
CRABAPPLE<br />
CRANBERRY<br />
COLORADO SPRUCE<br />
DOGWOOD<br />
ELDERBERRY<br />
HAWTHORN<br />
HONEYSUCKLE<br />
MOUNTAIN ASH<br />
NANKING CHERRY<br />
ROSES<br />
from both weather and predators.<br />
Study what groundcovers, perennials, and annuals the birds<br />
enjoy. Plant a sunflower and your children will enjoy the comical<br />
activities of birds while they eat the seeds.<br />
Establish a year round feeding program. Many people feed<br />
only in the winter months, but warm months will bring a different<br />
clientele to your feeders. Birds tend to scatter at nesting<br />
time and become less social, but the presence of a convenient<br />
food source can lure them to nest nearby. Try feeding different<br />
seeds in scattered feeders, and you will attract a variety of birds.<br />
Hummingbird feeders are easy to maintain, and a ready-made<br />
mixture is available. Hairy and downy woodpeckers, chickadees,<br />
and nuthatches enjoy suet in the winter months. Try<br />
putting suet in a pinecone as it’s natural for these gregarious<br />
birds, and they are quite entertaining. Save coconuts, and put<br />
sunflower hearts in them. Hang from a tree and chickadees,<br />
nuthatches, woodpeckers, and pine grosbeaks will always<br />
come back for more.<br />
ATTRACTS<br />
GOLDFINCHES, PINE SISKINS, CHICKADEES, AND JUNCOS<br />
34 SPECIES INCLUDING ROBINS, MOUNTAIN BLUEBIRDS, WAXWINGS<br />
43 SPECIES INCLUDING: BLUEBIRDS, ROBINS, PHEASANTS, GROUSE, PARTRIDGES<br />
BROWN THRASHERS, ROBINS, WAXWINGS<br />
NORTHERN FLICKERS, WHITE THROATED SPARROWS, WAXWINGS, AND ROBINS<br />
7 SPECIES EAT THE FRUIT, CEDAR WAXWINGSS, MOUNTAIN BLUEBIRD, PHEASANTS<br />
EXCELLENT NESTING SITE FOR ROBINS, CHICKADEES, PINE SISKINS, BLUEJAYS,<br />
AND PINE GROSBEAKS; ALL EAT ITS SEEDS.<br />
36 SPECIES EAT FRUIT INCLUDING 6 SPECIES OF THRUSHES, NORTHERN<br />
FLICKERS, HAIRY WOODPECKERS, SUMMER TANAGERS, EVENING GROSBEAKS,<br />
AND PINE GROSBEAKS.<br />
33 SPECIES INCLUDING WOODPECKERS, BLUEBIRDS, AND ROBINS<br />
18 SPECIES INCLUDING WAXWINGS<br />
A FAVOURITE FOR OUR FRIENDS THE HUMMINGBIRDS<br />
14 SPECIES INCLUDING WAXWINGS, BLUEBIRDS, PINE GROSBEAKS AND BLUE<br />
JAYS.<br />
ROBINS, MOUNTAIN BLUEBIRDS, WAXWINGS, CHICKADEES AND NUTHATCHES<br />
HUMMINGBIRDS AND 20 OTHER SPECIES OF BIRDS
Try speciality seeds such as black oil sunflower, sunflower hearts,<br />
niger seeds, cracked corn, and peanuts. You will attract more<br />
colourful birds such as goldfinches, pine siskins, chickadees, blue<br />
jays, nuthatches, woodpeckers, pine grosbeaks, and red polls.<br />
Birdseeds that contain mostly millet will attract sparrows in great<br />
numbers and scare the colourful songbirds.<br />
Come visit the garden sentre to see all the various types of feeders<br />
available. Start with one feeder away from the house, and gradually<br />
add new styles closer to your windows for easier viewing. A set of<br />
binoculars is a must for the bird lover. Eventually you will be able to<br />
hand feed a cheery little bird like a chickadee. Save your eggshells<br />
for when you rototill your vegetable garden, your soil will love it and<br />
so will the birds.<br />
Year-round Feeding Tips<br />
Dried or fresh fruit and baked goods (bagels, hard rolls, pizza crusts)<br />
are liked by many birds. Bird beaks and gullets cannot handle large<br />
chunks, so break items into small pieces.<br />
Sand or ground oyster shells are also welcomed to help their gizzards<br />
grind food.<br />
The location of the food is also important. Do not put food ‘out in<br />
the open’ away from protection. It makes the birds easy prey for<br />
hawks and cats. The best spot is to put the feeder 5 to 10 feet from<br />
a bush, shrub or tree. More than one feeder prevents one bird from<br />
monopolizing the feeder.<br />
A year round water supply is very beneficial. During winter water is<br />
very hard to find and birds need a source.<br />
Hummingbirds<br />
If you provide hummingbird feeders, you will need “nectar.” To make<br />
nectar, add one part sugar to four parts boiling water (boil the water<br />
before measuring, because some water will be lost in the process.)<br />
When the mixture is cool, it is ready for use. You can store extra sugar<br />
water in your refrigerator for up to one week, but left longer it may<br />
become moldy. Adding red food coloring to nectar is unnecessary<br />
and possibly harmful to birds. Red portals on the feeder, or even a<br />
NESTBOX DIMENSIONS FOR SMALL CAVITY NESTERS<br />
(measurements in inches with millimetres in brackets)<br />
Species Entrance Hole Floor Box Depth<br />
Bluebirds<br />
Eastern 1 1/2 (38) 4 x 4 (101 x 101) 10 (254)<br />
Mountain 1 9/16 (40) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254)<br />
Western 1 9/16 (40) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254)<br />
Chickadees 1 1/8 - 1 1/4 (29-32)<br />
All Species 1 1/4 (32) 4 x 4 (101 x 101) 8 (203)<br />
Finch<br />
Nuthatches<br />
Swallows<br />
Wren<br />
House 1 1/2 (38) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254)<br />
Both Species 1 1/2 (38) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254)<br />
Six Species 1 1/2 (38) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254)<br />
House 1 - 1 1/4 (25-32) 5 x 5 (127 x 127) 10 (254)<br />
red ribbon tied on top, will attract the birds just as well.<br />
NOTE: Change nectar every three to five days to prevent mold<br />
and deadly fermentation. NEVER use honey as a sweetener.<br />
It readily grows mold that can injure hummingbird tongues. Do<br />
not put any kind of oil around feeding portals to deter bees;<br />
you might contaminate the nectar. If bees or wasps become a<br />
problem, try moving the feeder.<br />
Nests and eggs, clockwise from top right:<br />
Boreal Chickadee; House Sparrow; European Starling;<br />
assemblage of Bluebird eggs showing colour and size variations;<br />
Mountain Bluebird; Tree Swallows; House Wren;<br />
Black-capped Chickadee.<br />
BirDS 16
PeStS AnD ProBLemS<br />
16<br />
PeStS & ProBLemS iPm: A PrACtiCAL<br />
Many people are concerned about excess chemicals and pesticides<br />
in their immediate environment, made obvious by the<br />
increase in popularity of organically grown foods. Following an<br />
integrated pest management method or IPM at home will greatly<br />
reduce the amount of chemicals you need in your garden. For a<br />
more environmentally sound, organic approach IPM is the way<br />
to go.<br />
Soil<br />
As always, start with good soil. If you have not done so already<br />
incorporate up to one-third organic material like peat moss or<br />
compost. If you are applying aged manure on the vegetable garden<br />
it is best to do so in the fall, allowing it to break down over<br />
the winter and significantly reducing or eliminating any bacteria<br />
present in the manure. It also helps to add zeolite at rate of 20<br />
kg per 10m 2 or per 3533 ft 2 .<br />
Plant Resistant Varieties<br />
An easy way to avoid disease and fungus problems is to purchase<br />
resistant varieties. Many vegetables, flowers, bulbs, shrubs, and<br />
trees have been bred to resist certain problems. For example,<br />
some tomatoes are bred to resist fusarium wilt and verticillium<br />
wilt. The letters ‘VFN’ on their tags identifies these plants.<br />
Rotate Crops<br />
Of particular importance in reducing plant problems and subsequently<br />
reducing chemical use is crop rotation. If you grow a<br />
plant or a plant in the same family in the same area year after<br />
year disease-causing organisms can build up. In addition certain<br />
insects may lay their eggs in the fall in anticipation of a spring<br />
food source. It is best to cycle through three types of plants over<br />
three years. This will reduce the build up of disease organisms<br />
in the soil that affect specific plants. A sample crop rotation at<br />
one location would be tomatoes, peppers, and/or potatoes the<br />
first year, cauliflower and/or cabbage the next, and beans and/or<br />
peas the third year. This is only an example but be sure to check<br />
what family your plants belong to before rotation. Tomatoes and<br />
potatoes are in the same family (Solanacea) and alternating these<br />
crops does not help to prevent disease though it can help to a<br />
lesser degree with insect pests.<br />
Controlling Pests<br />
Check you plants once or twice a week. It is much easier to take<br />
care of a pest problem when it first appears. If you find any pest<br />
insects (remember not all insects are pests) or a fungus problem<br />
remove them by hand if possible. Pull weeds to reduce competition,<br />
increase airflow, and remove host plants for some insect<br />
pests. Handpick any large insects like caterpillars if they are in<br />
lower numbers. For small insects like aphids or spider mites a<br />
hard stream of water can dislodge them from the plant, knocking<br />
them to the ground and making them easy prey for ground<br />
beetles, centipedes, birds, or other predators. If this does not<br />
work try to use chemicals with a low toxicity/ low environmental<br />
impact. Though non-toxic or of low toxicity to ourselves, sprays<br />
like insecticidal soap or pyrethrins are extremely effective against<br />
soft-bodied insects. There are also fungicides like sulfur dust that<br />
are much safer to use than some chemicals. Do not forget that<br />
even though these pesticides are more environmentally friendly<br />
than others they are still pesticides; read and follow all label<br />
directions carefully. If all the above options fail then you can<br />
turn to synthetic pesticides and/or fungicides knowing you did your<br />
best to try other methods. Take care when using pesticides in the<br />
vegetable garden. Follow all instructions carefully – check how<br />
long you have to wait until they are safe to consume and, most<br />
importantly, if the plant you want to treat is not listed on the<br />
pesticide then that pesticide is not for that plant. You could<br />
damage the plant or harm yourself or both.<br />
Biological Controls<br />
It is important to recognize that not all insects are pests. Some<br />
are very helpful. Encourage ladybugs and their larvae to feed on<br />
aphid-infested plants. They can consume up to 300 aphids each<br />
per day. Lacewings and syrphid fly larvae are also excellent aphid<br />
controls. See our beneficial insect section for further information<br />
on the ‘good guys’ of the insect world. Wholesale spraying of<br />
strong chemicals will eliminate the beneficial insects, sometimes<br />
setting you up for a worse infestation in the long run since the<br />
natural control insects (present usually in much smaller numbers<br />
than the pest) have been destroyed in the area.<br />
Take Good Care of Your Plants<br />
A healthy plant almost always has an easier time resisting pests<br />
than an unhealthy one. Generally we keep our vegetable garden<br />
well-watered, free of weeds, and fertilized. The same holds true<br />
usually for the flower gardens be they perennial or annual. We<br />
tend to neglect, however, our trees and shrubs, both of which, but<br />
trees are commonly underwatered and undernourished. A good<br />
example of this in Calgary is the birch. Birch trees need a lot of<br />
water and are often quite dry. This reduces their resistance to<br />
the leaf miner, which can do tremendous damage to the leaves.<br />
In addition, a weak birch will experience major winter dieback.<br />
Follow watering directions set out in our xeriscaping section and<br />
fertilize either with spikes or by hand watering 2-3 time per season<br />
but no fertilizing later than the last weekend of July. As a result,<br />
your birch will be stronger and more able to resist attack by leaf<br />
miner. The same basic principles apply for all trees and shrubs;<br />
a healthy plant tends to have less pest problems.<br />
Accept a Few Insects<br />
If all the above directions are followed and your plant still has a<br />
few pest insects it is best to simply accept it. This is especially<br />
true of trees and shrubs. A tree is an ecosystem unto itself. It has<br />
evolved to support minor pest populations. Trees, depending on<br />
the variety, can even handle one or two years of total defoliation<br />
by insects before running into major trouble. If it is not bothering<br />
the plant, do not let it bother you. Granted, in the case of vegetables<br />
and prize perennials it can be frustrating and may warrant<br />
control methods. However, if you find that a particular type of<br />
plant under good growing conditions still seems to attract aphids<br />
to your yard, it may be best to simply remove it for the sake of<br />
your other plants. Integrated pest management (IPM) is basically<br />
common-sense pest control that aims to keep pest populations at<br />
levels below which they cause significant damage. IPM controls<br />
pests and problems through a combination of biological, cultural<br />
and chemical methods. However, a treatment is used only when<br />
it is necessary. Instead of completely eliminating pests, they are<br />
kept at non-damaging levels. Both the gardener and the garden<br />
benefit from a balanced IPM approach. Reduced chemical use<br />
reduces damage to non-target organisms like beneficial insects<br />
and plants, protects the broader environment and decreases<br />
threats to human health. It also prevents pesticide-resistant pests<br />
from developing and reduces pesticide costs. In the long term it
is the most practical and viable pest control solution.<br />
One of the most important ways to prevent pest infestations in the garden is by<br />
providing good growing conditions that encourage strong, healthy plants. A pest<br />
infestation can be a sign that cultural conditions need to be corrected. Improper<br />
light, poor soil drainage, overpruning, too much or poorly timed watering or<br />
fertilizing. Any of these can create a weakened plant that becomes susceptible<br />
to insects or disease.<br />
Correct identification of pests, their food source and the damage they do is<br />
important. In other words, know your enemy. Their are three basic forms of insect<br />
pests: generalist, specialist, and opportunist. Generalist pests like some species<br />
of aphid, attack a wide range of plants. In this case it is wise to control the insect.<br />
Specialist pests like birch leaf- miner attack only specific plants. In this situation<br />
biological control, plant resistance and/or proper care can be more helpful than<br />
chemicals. Opportunistic pests target weaker plants. Again, attention to the plant<br />
and its required growing conditions will help immeasurably.<br />
After the plants and/or the pests have been identified the next step is to monitor<br />
the situation, know the ideal healthy state of the plant, then you can compare<br />
how well the plant is faring. Always remember: most plants can withstand more<br />
damage than you would expect. However, if an ornamental plant becomes too<br />
unattractive, the gardener must decide whether or not it needs treatment.<br />
When it comes to controlling the pest there are two basic approaches: offensive<br />
or defensive. The offensive approach involves taking charge of the situation<br />
- making sure plants have adequate light, water, nutrients and air circulation,<br />
planting resistant varieties and doing thorough clean-up in the spring and fall. The<br />
defensive approach involves dealing with the pest after it has arrived. Increasing<br />
plant health could be beneficial as could biological control (ie. introducing<br />
predators), removing the pest (by hand or pruning of infested areas), or using<br />
chemicals. When using chemicals always read the product label carefully,<br />
making sure you understand the plant and the pest as well as the required safety<br />
precautions. As an example, in the case of a leaf-hopper infestation on virginia<br />
creeper, chemical sprays may be a poor defensive approach. Leaf-hoppers are<br />
highly mobile and can easlily escape most of the chemical spray. Virginia creeper<br />
are very sensitive to chemicals and can burn easily. A better control method is<br />
to remove all leaf litter in the fall. This offensive method removes the protection<br />
that leaf-hoppers need. When adults move down to the base of the plant to<br />
overwinter, they will have no shelter from the cold and the pest population will<br />
be greatly reduced.<br />
In summary, using integrated pest management (IPM) perspectives and principles<br />
is the most reasonable and effective way to ensure balanced, healthy and<br />
beautiful gardens as well a safer environment in which to live and enjoy them.<br />
A Framework for Practical IPM<br />
1. Preparation<br />
- Be aware of potential problems<br />
- Try to anticipate and avoid costly<br />
remedies.<br />
- Be aware of what control tactics are<br />
available if, despite your best efforts,<br />
pests get out of control.<br />
2. Prevention<br />
- Use practices that contribute to protec-<br />
tion for the long term such as:<br />
- Biological controls<br />
- Crop rotation (breaks pest cycles)<br />
- Host plant resistance (choose varie-<br />
ties that have proven resistance to<br />
common pests)<br />
- Sanitation: remove and destroy<br />
infected debris and other sources of<br />
infestation.<br />
- Choose the proper plant for the<br />
proper site.<br />
- Observation: collect and document<br />
information to help make timely<br />
decisions.<br />
3. Analysis<br />
- After observation indicates what pests<br />
you have, you must now decide if<br />
action is warranted.<br />
-Determine whether the benefits derived<br />
are justified by the costs incurred<br />
(monetary and human health costs).<br />
- If action is called for then choose the<br />
actions that will optimize the cost and<br />
effect while minimizing adverse effects.<br />
eg. Cultural - Crop rotation<br />
Mechanical - Cultivation<br />
Biological - Release of beneficials<br />
Chemical - Herbicides, insecticide,<br />
fungicides<br />
4. Implementation<br />
- If control is justified use the proper<br />
procedures at the proper time, eg.<br />
- Weed Cultivation: most effective<br />
before seedlings are even visible.<br />
- Biological controls: when releasing<br />
beneficial insects be aware of<br />
temperatures and life cycles.<br />
5. Evaluation<br />
- Short Term: did we make the right<br />
decision; did we get the desired<br />
results?<br />
- Long Term: keeping accurate records<br />
will help us in the future (next growing<br />
season). We will continue taking<br />
beneficial actions and discontinue<br />
practices that are costly and harmful.<br />
PeStS AnD ProBLemS 16
PeStS AnD ProBLemS<br />
166<br />
PeStS & ProBLemS BenefiCiAL inSeCtS<br />
Not all insects in our yards are harmful. Don't jump to the hasty<br />
conclusion that an insect is a pest unless you have positively<br />
identified it, or have seen it actually eating the plant. Many<br />
insects are neutral; they do not harm plants. Some insects are<br />
beneficial; they prey on the harmful insects that do damage our<br />
plants.<br />
The descriptions of some common pests are described on the<br />
next couple of pages of our guide, which will help to identify<br />
harmful insects. If you are unsure, the knowledgeable staff at<br />
<strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> may be able to offer assistance.<br />
Listed below are the more common beneficial insects in our<br />
area.<br />
Centipedes:<br />
This fast-moving arthropod is another of the important grounddwelling<br />
predators. Centipedes are totally carnivorous and<br />
never damage plants. Their close relatives millipedes may<br />
do damage to soft-stemmed plants but these mainly feed on<br />
decaying plant and animal matter. The easiest way to tell these<br />
two creatures apart is the number of legs and how fast they<br />
move. A centipede has fewer legs and moves much faster<br />
than a millipede. Centipedes will eat nearly anything living they<br />
encounter including slugs and other centipedes.<br />
Ground Beetles:<br />
Ground beetles or Carabids are a very common predator of<br />
crawling pests like slugs, cutworms, ants, aphids, etc. Most<br />
species are black but some have bright metallic green or<br />
reddish shells. The larval form also feeds on pests but they are<br />
not as mobile as the adults. As a result, they spend most of this<br />
stage of their life in the soil or grass and are rarely ever seen.<br />
Honeybees & Other Pollinators:<br />
Although they do not destroy pests, honey bees are considered<br />
beneficial because they pollinate plants. Leafcutter bees,<br />
bumblebees, carpenter bees, butterflies, and moths also visit<br />
flowers to feed on nectar and pollen. These insects and other<br />
pollinators are vital for a plant species to survive. Without them<br />
many plants would be unable to produce fruit or seeds.<br />
Hover/Syrphid Flies:<br />
In both larval and adult form this insect is extremely beneficial<br />
though for different reasons. The larva is an important aphid<br />
predator. It is hard to identify because it is similar in appearance<br />
to a caterpillar differing only by a narrow, eye-less head<br />
and faintly translucent skin. As well, these insects, unlike<br />
caterpillars, will be found amongst aphid colonies. The adult<br />
form mimics bee and wasp coloring for protection but, as it is<br />
a true fly, is unable to sting. These flies merely feed off nectar,<br />
pollinating flowers in the process.<br />
Hypoaspis Mites:<br />
Sold in the form HYPE-O, these beneficial mites feed on fungus<br />
gnats, thrips, bulb mites, weevil eggs and spring tails. They live<br />
in the soil as long as they have a food source and up to 30 days<br />
without food. However if plants continue to be overwatered they<br />
will drown.<br />
Lacewings:<br />
Adult lacewings are one of our most beautiful and beneficial<br />
insects. They can reach lengths up to 3/4" long, & have long<br />
green or occasionally brown lacy wings. The larval form is<br />
very similar to ladybug larvae. Both adults and larvae feed on<br />
aphids, various insect eggs, mealy bugs and scale.<br />
Ladybugs:<br />
Both the larval and adult stages eat insect eggs and soft bodied<br />
insects, particularly aphids. We are all familiar with the blackspotted<br />
red ladybug beetle, but should learn to recognize the<br />
ladybug larvae, which eats more pests than the adults. They<br />
are shaped like tiny alligators; the most common types are dark<br />
blue with orange or yellow spots.<br />
Predator Nematodes:<br />
Predator nematodes eat insects such as grubs, cut worms,<br />
and larvae of the carrot rust fly, onion maggot and the crane fly<br />
(leather jacker). Nematodes only need to be applied once per<br />
season and require a soil tempurature of 10 degrees C. They<br />
will not overwinter.<br />
Spiders & Harvestmen:<br />
Spiders are voracious predators, feeding on many species of<br />
insects including aphids, flies, leafhoppers, mosquitoes and<br />
other pest insects. They do not damage our plants or crops<br />
and should therefore be left in peace. In fact, these arthropods<br />
should be actively encouraged to live in your garden as they do<br />
nothing but good.<br />
The daddy longlegs or 'harvestman' (not actually a true spider,<br />
though often mistaken for one) performs a similar role as<br />
spiders. Its main prey consists of ground and plant pests like<br />
aphids and small slugs.<br />
Others:<br />
Many other insects commonly found in Alberta are beneficial<br />
as pollinators, predators, or parasites. Butterflies and moths<br />
are, of course, pollinators but so are many species of flies,<br />
small beetles, and wasps. Other predators include robber flies,<br />
aphid midge larvae (tiny bright orange caterpillar-like animals),<br />
predatory true bugs like assassin or ambush bugs, and wasps<br />
(including yellow jackets which are excellent predators) and<br />
even some mites and thrips. Parasites include many species of<br />
wasps which lay their eggs either on or in the pest insect, and<br />
some species of mites.
PeStS & ProBLemS PeStS<br />
Pests are<br />
living organisms<br />
that disturb and<br />
harm the natural<br />
and desirable<br />
growth of plants.<br />
Insect pests include<br />
aphids and<br />
scale. Diseases<br />
are caused by<br />
various microscopic<br />
organisms<br />
such as fungi,<br />
bacteria, and<br />
viruses.<br />
HOUSE PLANT<br />
INSECTS<br />
If you think an insect<br />
m a y b e c a u s i n g a<br />
problem on your house<br />
plants ask for help. Be<br />
sure you identify the<br />
insect before you use<br />
any chemical sprays. It<br />
may not be an insect at<br />
all: fungal infections are<br />
often mistaken as insect<br />
damage. Insecticides are<br />
ineffective in controlling<br />
fungal related problems.<br />
Cultural errors, watering<br />
too often or not enough,<br />
or inappropriate lighting,<br />
could be the reason your<br />
plants are not doing<br />
well. These problems<br />
can only be corrected<br />
by changing cultural<br />
practices. If an insect<br />
is indeed the culprit,<br />
identifying the type of<br />
insect ensures that the<br />
best treatment, chemical<br />
or other, is used. The<br />
following descriptions<br />
will give you some<br />
ALWAYS READ<br />
THE PESTICIDE LA-<br />
BEL FIRST BEFORE<br />
APPLYING ANY<br />
CHEMICAL!<br />
Houseplant Pests<br />
Aphids are small insects, usually green or<br />
black, that suck the plant juices out of new<br />
growth or flower buds. Sprays containing<br />
botanical insecticides such as pyrethrin<br />
or insecticidal soap will kill aphids on<br />
contact. Repeated spray applications are<br />
necessary. Plants infested with aphids will<br />
have to be watched closely for some time.<br />
If aphids are only a problem on the flower<br />
buds, which often happens on hibiscus,<br />
remove all buds at the same time to<br />
eliminate the aphids.<br />
Mealy Bugs are small, flat grayish-white<br />
insects that form clumps of damp wool-like<br />
cocoons. Mealy bugs are most often found<br />
in crotches where leaves join stems or<br />
where stems meet. These insects can be<br />
killed on contact with a botanical insecticide<br />
such as pyrethrin or insecticidal soap. Even<br />
with this treatment, plants will have to be<br />
watched very carefully for several months.<br />
Rather than spraying the whole plant only<br />
spray specific insects or cocoons or dab<br />
them with a cotton swab that has been<br />
dipped in a 50% water/rubbing alcohol<br />
solution Mealy bugs can attack almost any<br />
plant but prefer succulent plants like hoya,<br />
jade, and cacti.<br />
Spider Mites are almost too small to<br />
see. Plants infested with spider mites will<br />
demonstrate tiny white specks on the<br />
underside of their leaves, especially near<br />
leaf mid-ribs. Later, fine silky webs are<br />
formed which are most obvious if plants<br />
are misted with water. Spider mites feed by<br />
sucking sap from the plant tissue causing<br />
a speckled leaf appearance. Spider mites<br />
are actually spiders, not true insects, so<br />
a specific mite killer is effective at killing<br />
them. Spray the undersides of the leaves<br />
with insecticide twice a week for a month .<br />
Mist the plant with a strong spray of water<br />
before spraying as spider mites do not like<br />
moist, humid conditions.<br />
Fungus Gnats<br />
Often mistaken for fruit flies, a fungus<br />
gnat infestation will most often be noticed<br />
in their adult form as tiny black<br />
flies hovering near overwatered<br />
plants. The adult flies lay<br />
their eggs in the soil which<br />
eventually hatch into<br />
tiny white maggots.<br />
These maggots can<br />
only damage healthy<br />
roots if they are<br />
present in massive<br />
numbers. Their main<br />
food source consists<br />
of dead, rotting roots and other decaying<br />
material like peat moss or fungus in the<br />
soil. Fungus gnats rarely kill plants. In fact,<br />
the plants they are infesting are most likely<br />
dying from overwatering or poor drainage.<br />
As a result of the excess moisture, the fine<br />
absorbent roots decay, supplying the gnat<br />
larvae with a source of food. To eliminate<br />
these pests water less if possible. Allow<br />
the top inch or so of soil to dry out as this<br />
is where the majority of larvae live. If this<br />
is ineffective, apply rotenone every few<br />
weeks to eliminate the population over time.<br />
Another method is to introduce Hypoaspis<br />
mites which attack<br />
fungus gnats - See<br />
the Beneficial<br />
Insects page.<br />
Scale can look<br />
like drops of dried<br />
glue on stems or<br />
leaves. Plants<br />
with scale are<br />
best destroyed<br />
as chemical<br />
treatments are<br />
only a temporary<br />
measure. Scale<br />
spreads to other<br />
plants if the<br />
source is not eliminated. Scale is often<br />
mis-identified as leaf spot, sun burn, or a<br />
fungal infection. Bring a leaf in for positive<br />
identification under a magnifying glass.<br />
Thrips are tiny dark, slender active, flying<br />
insects that swarm when disturbed. They<br />
suck sap from the leaves, causing silvery<br />
white streaking or blotching. Thrips are<br />
chemically controlled by Trounce or End-All.<br />
PeStS AnD ProBLemS 16
PeStS AnD ProBLemS<br />
16<br />
White Flies are tiny white, moth-like, flying insects which<br />
swarm into white clouds when plant leaves are disturbed.<br />
They suck sap from primarily the undersides of leaves,<br />
causing them to discolor<br />
to yellow and then to die.<br />
Whiteflies secrete honeydew<br />
which favors dark fungal<br />
growth. Whiteflies overwinter<br />
only indoors in houses, but<br />
in summer infest outdoor<br />
annuals and perennials. They<br />
are controlled chemically by<br />
pyrethrins.<br />
<strong>Garden</strong> Insect Pests<br />
Ants do not eat plants or kill them directly. There are 8800<br />
species worldwide, with 580 in North America and 100<br />
species in Canada alone. These insects live in underground<br />
nests or in large soil mounds. As these mounds are pushed<br />
up plant roots are damaged. The unsightly mounds can<br />
smother turf or greatly reduce the vitality of vegetables,<br />
annuals, perennials, or even trees and shrubs. Ants are<br />
neither beneficial nor harmful to peonies. Water your lawn<br />
thoroughly after each treatment. Cultural controls such<br />
as digging up the nest or drowning can be very effective.<br />
Please see <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong> staff for chemical treatments.<br />
Aphids are small green, gray, red or black insects with<br />
or without wings that attack almost any type of plant by<br />
sucking sap from leave or stems. The damage caused by<br />
aphids appears as stunted and curled new growth and<br />
is usually associated with the presence of a sticky shiny<br />
substance called honeydew. Aphids commonly attack<br />
honeysuckle, dogwood, mayday, elm, and apple trees. A<br />
sooty black mold often develops on plant tissue coated<br />
with honeydew. Control aphids with foliar applications of<br />
Ambush, insecticidal soap, or Trounce. A steady spray of<br />
water from the garden hose can dislodge the insects.<br />
Cabbage Worms are green caterpillars which chew holes<br />
in the leaves of cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, and brussels<br />
sprouts (cole crops). Control cabbage worms with repeated<br />
applications of Rotenone or BTK. Row covers stop<br />
butterflies from laying eggs on plants.<br />
Caterpillars<br />
This broad family of insects appear in most any color<br />
from yellow to black. Caterpillars cause damage to<br />
many different plants by actually<br />
chewing away large sections<br />
of leaf tissue. Most caterpillars<br />
are somewhat particular which<br />
type of plants they will feed on.<br />
Control caterpillars on food crops<br />
with pyrethrins or Rotenone<br />
dust. Contact chemicals such as<br />
Ambush will eliminate caterpillars<br />
from feeding on ornamental plants.<br />
Green leaf rollers are caterpillars<br />
that roll themselves in leaves and<br />
webbing. Leaf roller caterpillars can<br />
not be contacted with chemicals.<br />
Caterpillars are best controlled by<br />
manual removal or through BTK<br />
when they are very small.<br />
Cutworms are green<br />
caterpillars with<br />
black heads. These<br />
caterpillars cut beans,<br />
peas, and many other<br />
tender young plants off<br />
at ground level. When<br />
touched, cutworms will<br />
always curl into a tight<br />
ball. Control cutworms<br />
by applying Rotenone to<br />
the soil prior to planting<br />
ornamental flowers. BTK<br />
may be effective when<br />
they are small. Other<br />
controls like placing<br />
barriers around the<br />
young seedlings can also work.<br />
Flea Beatles are small shiny black or dark red beetles<br />
which attack almost any<br />
vegetable crop. They leave<br />
many small pinholes in the<br />
leaves. Flea beetles jump<br />
when disturbed. Control flea<br />
beetles with applications of<br />
Rotenone, insecticidal soap,<br />
or Trounce. Spray flea beetle<br />
infested plants twice weekly<br />
until the insects are under<br />
control.<br />
Maggots are small white<br />
worm-like insects that attack<br />
vegetable crops such as cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli,<br />
brussels sprouts, radishes, carrots and onions. Prevention<br />
is the best cure for maggots.<br />
Slugs (shell-less snails), are usually dark brown slimy<br />
creatures that attack almost any vegetation. Place Safer's<br />
Slug and Snail Bait (a new product consisting of ferric<br />
phosphate and is perfectly safe for humans and animals)<br />
in a cool moist place where slugs hide during the day.<br />
These spots can be located by<br />
following, early in the morning,<br />
the slimy trails that slugs leave<br />
as they move. Keep soil free of<br />
mulch and dead plant material<br />
as these are ideal places for<br />
slugs to hide. Water in the<br />
morning, not in the evening,<br />
because they move less easily<br />
on dry soil. Cover soil surface with sharp sand to prevent<br />
slugs from moving around on soil surface.<br />
Spider Mites are minute sap sucking pests that cause<br />
plant foliage to yellow, brown, and eventually dry up and<br />
drop. They are common on almost every type of plant<br />
including house plants (see House Plant Pests), deciduous<br />
and evergreen trees and shrubs, perennials, and annuals.<br />
Damage appears as spotted leaves or needles and dead<br />
patches in spruce or pyramidal junipers. A fine webbing is<br />
usually present which is often noticed after a rain. Spider<br />
mites are more common during hot dry weather than during<br />
cool damp weather. Control spider mite infestations on<br />
outdoor ornamentals with two applications, about a week<br />
apart, of Ambush. By hosing spider mite infested trees<br />
down once a week you can provide some natural control<br />
because they can not fly and may not climb back up into the<br />
tree.
Deciduous Pests<br />
Birch Leaf Miner<br />
The larvae of these insects tunnel or mine into the leaf<br />
tissue creating unsightly brown patches on the leaves.<br />
These areas can be pulled apart to reveal tiny larvae<br />
between the leaf layers. When damage is noticed, contact<br />
insecticides are not effective<br />
G A R D E N<br />
PESTS:<br />
Despite<br />
your best<br />
efforts some<br />
plants may<br />
become<br />
infested by<br />
either insects<br />
or diseases<br />
during the<br />
course of<br />
a growing<br />
season. The<br />
degree of<br />
the damage<br />
caused by<br />
these infestationsranges<br />
from mild<br />
symptoms to<br />
the death of<br />
a plant or a<br />
whole crop<br />
of plants.<br />
Regardless<br />
of the severity<br />
garden<br />
plant pest<br />
damage is<br />
discouraging.<br />
The following<br />
are some<br />
cultural rules<br />
which will<br />
help to diminish<br />
these<br />
problems:<br />
1.Keep<br />
gardens and<br />
greenhouses<br />
free of dead<br />
or diseased<br />
since larvae are safely hidden<br />
within the leaf tissue. Systemic<br />
pesticides were effective but are<br />
no longer available. Try to deal<br />
with the adult females as they<br />
lay eggs. Spray the foliage with<br />
Ambush, a synthetic pyrethroid,<br />
when the leaves are fully opened<br />
and repeat in mid-June and again<br />
in early July. Remember, birch<br />
and other trees under drought<br />
stress are prone to insect attack.<br />
Keep your birch deeply watered<br />
out to<br />
and<br />
beyond<br />
the<br />
dripline.<br />
If<br />
possible,<br />
also<br />
mulch<br />
this<br />
area to<br />
conserve<br />
soil<br />
moisture.<br />
Cottony Ash Psyllid<br />
The nymph stage of this insect<br />
pierce leaf tissue, feed on plant<br />
juices and inject a toxin causing<br />
severely curled or "cauliflowered"<br />
leaves and leaf drop. It is a<br />
new insect to our area which<br />
attacks black and Manchurian<br />
ash trees. During summer, the<br />
feeding nymphs are covered in<br />
"cotton" and enclosed in the leaf.<br />
Spraying has little effect at this<br />
time, therefore it is best to spray<br />
the newly-hatched nymphs with<br />
Trounce (pyrethrin; insecticidal<br />
soap) just when leaf buds start<br />
to open, usually in late May or<br />
early June. Spraying again about<br />
one month later is less effective<br />
but may kill some of the second<br />
generation nymphs as they hatch<br />
in late July/early August.<br />
Pear Slugs are the larvae of a<br />
sawfly species and appear as<br />
small dark slugs on the surface<br />
of plant leaves. Pear slugs<br />
skeletonize leaves as they scrape<br />
away upper leaf surfaces. They<br />
are common on Cotoneaster<br />
hedges, and Hawthorns. There<br />
are generally two generations of<br />
pear slugs during the growing<br />
season. The second generation<br />
which appears in August does the<br />
most leaf damage. Since these<br />
insects attack plants in<br />
the season they don’t do<br />
any measurable harm to the<br />
shrub. Earlier infestations of pear slug can be effectively<br />
controlled with spray applications of Ambush/permethrin.<br />
Ash Bark Beetles have recently become a major problem<br />
on green, black, and Manchurian ash trees. Mountain<br />
ash, which are in the rose family, are unaffected by these<br />
insects. Trees infected with the larvae of ash bark beetles<br />
will show signs of wilted leaves and later dead branches<br />
will be evident throughout the crown area. Where dead and<br />
live branches meet you will see circular rings of tiny holes.<br />
Cut open the bark to reveal tunnels, called galleries, that<br />
restrict sap flow and disrupt plant growth beyond these<br />
rings.<br />
Control: As soon as you notice these rings of beetle<br />
entry holes, prune damaged branches back beyond the<br />
damaged area; make cuts just above the nearest healthy<br />
branch or leaf cluster. The damaged branch portions that<br />
have been removed should be sealed with plastic bags to<br />
prevent the emergence of the beetles and their re-entry<br />
into other ash trees. If beetle infested trees are not pruned<br />
the beetles will emerge from the tunnels in late July to mid<br />
August. From here they travel down tree trunks and burrow<br />
into the bark close to tree bases. There are no available<br />
systemics and foliar sprays are not effective.<br />
Evergreen Pests<br />
Spruce Sawfly Larvae are small green orange-headed<br />
caterpillars that feed on young spruce or larch needles.<br />
They are similar in color and size as a spruce needle and<br />
as a result are difficult to see. Ends of branches with new<br />
needles missing indicates insects are present. Check your<br />
spruce trees regularly from June to July. Spruce sawfly<br />
larvae are best<br />
controlled with a<br />
contact insecticide<br />
such as Ambush.<br />
Spray infested<br />
spruce trees when<br />
the caterpillars<br />
first appear and, if<br />
necessary, again in<br />
10-14 days or after<br />
a rain if more larvae<br />
are present.<br />
Cooley Spruce<br />
Gall Aphids are little white fluffy aphids that lay eggs in<br />
the new growth of young spruce trees. The larva forms<br />
a green gall, a swelling on the end of the branch, which<br />
later turns purple and finally<br />
brown after the eggs have<br />
hatched. Brown galls no longer<br />
contain the insect that created<br />
them months earlier; they can<br />
be removed if you find them<br />
disfiguring. Once the gall has<br />
formed spraying is useless. If<br />
you can, pick the green galls off<br />
to reduce the number of aphids<br />
that hatch. Insecticidal spraying<br />
is generally not recommended<br />
for control of this insect.<br />
White Pine Weevil on Spruce<br />
Large white larvae inside the<br />
leaders of spruce and pine<br />
trees eat the soft tissue. They<br />
cause leaders to curl over and<br />
the needles on the leader to<br />
die in the late summer. In the fall, on damaged trees, you<br />
will be able to see telltale holes in the leader where adult<br />
weevils have emerged. Once a leader has curled over no<br />
control is possible. Cut the leader off just above the next<br />
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“Why, Sir, they have as good a right to live as we; they are our<br />
fellow worms." -Henry Wadsworth Longfellow (1840)<br />
set of healthy branches. To form a new leader, tie a sturdy<br />
stick, that extends beyond the cut, to the trunk of the tree.<br />
Bend one of the top healthy branches up to it and tie it to<br />
the stick. If other healthy branches try to compete, they<br />
should be removed. After one year previously damaged<br />
trees will have new leaders.<br />
Insecticidal spraying is<br />
generally not recommended<br />
for control of this insect.<br />
Pine Needle Scales are<br />
small white oblong-shaped<br />
crusts on pine needles.<br />
These scales can be scraped<br />
off with a fingernail. Insects<br />
under these scales suck sap<br />
from needles and eventually<br />
give pine trees a pale sickly<br />
appearance. Most insecticides<br />
won’t penetrate scale,<br />
however horticultural oil may<br />
help. Various types of scale<br />
attack spruce and juniper as<br />
well as pine.<br />
Spruce Budworms are seen occasionally but are less<br />
common than sawfly larvae in<br />
western Canada. The green<br />
budworm larvae are larger than<br />
spruce sawfly larvae. Budworm<br />
larvae also attack new spruce<br />
needles, but rather than leaving<br />
the ends of the branches<br />
bare, they form clusters of silk<br />
webbing, bud scales, and debris<br />
around the end of the branch.<br />
Ambush is an effective budworm<br />
control if sprayed when larvae<br />
are present.<br />
Lawn Pests<br />
Read the label directions to find<br />
out which chemical will work best<br />
against the particular<br />
insect you are dealing<br />
with. Some of the<br />
most common lawn<br />
insects are listed<br />
below:<br />
Dew Worms create<br />
small mounds in<br />
your lawn, making it<br />
uneven. Some dew<br />
worms are beneficial<br />
as they prevent<br />
the ground from<br />
compacting. If you are<br />
overrun with them,<br />
apply carbolic soap<br />
at the recommended<br />
rate (mixing it with<br />
water), using a watering can to prevent chemical drift.<br />
Water your lawn and surrounding area thoroughly for<br />
1-2 hours in the early evening, then apply the chemical.<br />
Remember to read the directions first before you apply the<br />
carbolic soap. Remove any dead worms seen, as they<br />
are poisonous to birds. Repeat this treatment several<br />
times at 2 week intervals and have your neighbors treat<br />
their lawns as well to lessen the chance of recurrence. This<br />
is only a temporary solution; the best method is to live with<br />
them and use gypsum to break down clumps and mounds<br />
left by dew worms.<br />
Sod Webworms are gray caterpillars that attack the root<br />
system of lawns. Circular areas of lawn will die. If the dead<br />
grass areas are pulled on the grass comes out of the soil<br />
easily since the roots have been damaged. A fine white<br />
web can be seen just below ground level. Diazinon is an<br />
effective control for sod webworm. Always read and follow<br />
instructions on the container label.<br />
Plant Diseases<br />
Plant diseases fall into two major groups: parasitic and<br />
physiological. Parasitic diseases are caused by fungi,<br />
bacteria, viruses and other microscopic organisms.<br />
Physiological disorders are caused by unfavorable<br />
environmental conditions, chemical injury, improper<br />
fertilizing or other environmentally related situations. Some<br />
of the most common plant diseases are listed below.<br />
Fire Blight is probably the most destructive disease of<br />
trees and shrubs in the rose family in North America. Fire<br />
blight occurs sporadically and unpredictably. A severe<br />
outbreak can seriously damage or kill mature pear, apple,<br />
or crabapple trees in one season. Mountain ash is equally<br />
vulnerable to the disease and may suffer the same fate.<br />
Other ornamentals such as<br />
hawthorn, plum, chokecherry,<br />
saskatoon, cotoneaster, and<br />
spirea may also be affected.<br />
The Cause: Fire blight is caused<br />
by a bacterium (scientific<br />
name Erwinia amylovora)<br />
that enters the tree through<br />
blossoms, leaves, or stem<br />
wounds. Usually the disease<br />
is spread by bacteria that<br />
over winter in main stem and<br />
branch cankers or in infected<br />
twigs. In the spring, just as<br />
the blossoms begin to open, these cankers and infected<br />
twigs exude drops of bacterial ooze that are spread by rain,<br />
heavy dew, or wind-blown mist to the blossoms and young<br />
leaves. Fire blight may also be spread by pollinating insects<br />
such as bees, by sucking, chewing, or boring insects, or by<br />
unsanitary pruning tools. Favorable conditions for disease<br />
entry and development include warm temperatures and<br />
high humidity. In the spring infected blossoms suddenly wilt<br />
and turn brown. Later, twigs and leaves also turn brown,<br />
appearing to be scorched by fire; hence the common name.<br />
Affected leaves usually remain on trees well into the winter.<br />
The branch ends curl over like a shepherd’s crook. Young<br />
infected fruits become watery or oily in appearance and
exude droplets of clear or amber-colored ooze. This fruit<br />
later become leathery and turns dark brown. The shrivelled<br />
fruit usually remains attached to the tree. Cankers, which<br />
are sunken woody areas, also form on affected branches<br />
and exude this sticky ooze.<br />
Prevention: Preventative treatment of fruit trees and<br />
mountain ash should be undertaken as a matter of course if<br />
fire blight is present in your neighborhood. Trees that have<br />
previously been infected and pruned of their diseased parts<br />
should also be treated to prevent new infections.<br />
Blossoms are the part of the plant most susceptible to<br />
fireblight. Blossoms can be protected by using a Copper<br />
Spray solution following label instructions. Apply this<br />
solution with a hose-end sprayer during the early<br />
stages of blossom, when 10% of the blossoms have<br />
opened. Repeat these spray applications at 4 to 5 day<br />
intervals until the late stages of blossom, when only<br />
a few blossoms remain on the tree. This will require at<br />
least three applications. These applications can only be<br />
made when the air temperature is around 18 C (65 F.) The<br />
best control of fire blight comes from spraying the entire<br />
tree at regular intervals through the summer. Copper sprays<br />
may be used until 1 day before picking the fruit. Additional<br />
preventative measures that should be taken to eliminate fire<br />
blight are to:<br />
1. Avoid the use of high nitrogen<br />
fertilizers that<br />
promote succulent growth readily<br />
susceptible to fire blight.<br />
2. Remove root suckers from the<br />
base of the trees for<br />
same reason.<br />
the<br />
3. Control leaf hoppers, aphids<br />
and other leaf-feeding insects<br />
that may spread fire blight.<br />
Control: There is no chemical that can cure fire blight. The<br />
only effective method of controlling fire blight is to prune off<br />
diseased twigs and branches. During the dormant season,<br />
late fall to early spring, prune out and destroy all diseased<br />
twigs and branches. Cut 30 cm. (1 ft.) below the diseased<br />
area since bacterial infections such as fire blight can extend<br />
beyond the visibly blighted area. (All pruning wounds can<br />
be disinfected with a copper spray solution.) During the<br />
growing season prune and burn any infected twigs or<br />
branches or seal in garbage bags for disposal. Once again,<br />
cut 30 cm. (1 ft.) below the infected area. Make regular<br />
inspections during the summer to detect and remove new<br />
infections but avoid pruning excessively during the growing<br />
season. Trees that are severely infected, with large cankers<br />
in the trunk, should be removed and destroyed immediately.<br />
WARNING: Healthy plant tissue can be infected by<br />
bacteria-coated pruning tools. After each cut dip your<br />
pruning tools in a disinfectant solution of Lysol at 50 ml/L<br />
(4tbs/qt) or household bleach at 100 ml/L(8 tbs/qt) to<br />
prevent this.<br />
Dutch Elm Disease<br />
Dutch elm disease<br />
is a fungi that infects<br />
elm trees and inhibits<br />
the flow of nutrients<br />
throughout the tree.<br />
The name Dutch Elm<br />
Disease originates<br />
from Holland, where<br />
the fungi was first<br />
identified. The disease<br />
was accidentally<br />
introduced to North<br />
America from Europe in 1930. Since then, DED has<br />
spread throughout the continent via the transportation of<br />
elm firewood within which the smaller European elm bark<br />
beetle breeds. It is believed that this elm bark beetle was<br />
introduced to Calgary in this way.<br />
Prevention: To keep DED out of Calgary, the City is<br />
monitoring its elms to detect DED infection. Part of this<br />
monitoring includes completion of an elm inventory. By<br />
knowing where its elms are, Parks & Recreation staff may<br />
best care for the City's elms. During summer months, watch<br />
for signs and symptoms of DED. An elm with DED displays<br />
the following signs; wilting, yellowing leaves and leaves<br />
turning brown and falling before onset of fall. If you see a<br />
tree displaying such symptoms, contact the DED hotline @<br />
221-4686. Secondly, be sure to maintain the health of your<br />
elm through proper care.<br />
Powdery Mildew<br />
Powdery mildew fungus affects all types of plants including<br />
lawns, perennials, annuals, and shrubs. It is particularly<br />
prevalent on roses and<br />
currants. This disease starts<br />
on young leaves as raised<br />
blister-like areas that are<br />
soon covered with grayishwhite<br />
powder or mold. The<br />
fungus growth develops on<br />
the surface of leaves, stems,<br />
buds, and flowers. Symptoms<br />
of injury are: stunting,<br />
distortion of leaves and buds,<br />
yellowing of leaves, premature<br />
leaf fall, and general decline in<br />
plant growth.<br />
Control: Powdery mildew can<br />
be prevented: by planting<br />
mildew-tolerant or resistant varieties wherever possible; by<br />
not planting susceptible plants in damp shady locations;<br />
by spacing plants out to avoid overcrowding and allow<br />
air circulation; and by pruning off affected young growth<br />
and discarding it. Water plants in the morning so that leaf<br />
moisture has a chance to evaporate during the day. In<br />
serious cases, apply protective fungicides like <strong>Garden</strong><br />
Sulphur at the first sign of infection.<br />
Leaf Yellowing<br />
Trees & shrubs often appear to be declining in vigor by<br />
showing signs of leaf yellowing in summer. Pale yellow<br />
leaves with dry crisp edges that drop prematurely can be<br />
equated to a number of causes: leaf scorch resulting from<br />
rapid leaf moisture loss during dry conditions, nitrogen<br />
deficiency resulting from lack of fertilizer, toxicity resulting<br />
from the use of concentrated insecticides during hot dry<br />
weather, or from herbicides or soil sterilants used too<br />
closely to ornamental trees and shrubs. However, the most<br />
common cause of leaf yellowing is iron or manganese<br />
deficiency. Leaf veins stay green while inter-veinal spaces<br />
become pale yellow. Young leaves are affected first, but<br />
this condition, known as iron chlorosis advances throughout<br />
entire plants if not corrected. Iron chlorosis can be<br />
corrected by adding iron or acidifying soil conditioners such<br />
as peat moss, aluminum sulfate or sulfur to the soil. The<br />
problem is that iron, although present, is not available in<br />
soil conditions common to the prairies because our soil and<br />
water are alkaline.<br />
Potato Late Blight<br />
Late blight caused by a fungus (Phytophthora infestans)<br />
is the most destructive disease of potatoes worldwide.<br />
This disease is responsible for causing the infamous Irish<br />
potato famine in the mid-nineteenth century. Late blight has<br />
reappeared as a major disease in many potato growing<br />
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areas of the world,<br />
mainly because<br />
fungicide-resistant<br />
strains of the fungus<br />
have developed.<br />
The disease affects<br />
potatoes and tomatoes<br />
equally severely. In<br />
Alberta, the disease<br />
has been gaining<br />
in importance for<br />
the last few years.<br />
Its resurgence is of<br />
concern to potato<br />
growers. Late blight<br />
is a "community<br />
disease"; if any<br />
diseased plant exists<br />
in an area, there<br />
is a good chance<br />
that the disease will<br />
spread to neighboring<br />
fields. A hobby home<br />
garden (of potatoes and tomatoes) with infected plants<br />
could threaten a nearby commercial field. It is, thus, very<br />
important that the community as a whole keeps their plants<br />
free from late blight.<br />
Prevention: Since the disease can survive in infected<br />
tubers, DO NOT use your own potato tubers if they show<br />
any kind of rotting. As a precaution, ALWAYS buy "certified<br />
seed potatoes" & tomato seedlings from reputable sources.<br />
Control: The disease can be effectively controlled with the<br />
spray of an appropriate, registered fungicide. Consult your<br />
local greenhouse garden centre or other such sources for<br />
the fungicides and their use. Always follow the directions on<br />
the fungicide label.<br />
Black Knot<br />
Black knot is a common<br />
fungus problem on many<br />
flowering Prunus species<br />
such as cherries or plums.<br />
It affects only woody tissue,<br />
developing on twigs, limbs,<br />
and branches, stopping the<br />
flow of sap and nutrients.<br />
Growth beyond the knots<br />
can be stunted or even<br />
dead, resulting in weak,<br />
disfigured, and sometimes<br />
dead trees. Knots are easily<br />
recognized as lumpy, hard<br />
black swellings on the wood.<br />
Fungus overwinters on<br />
infected twigs and produces<br />
new spores in the spring.<br />
These spores are easily<br />
transferred by wind, rain,<br />
or the activities of animals. New shoots are susceptible to<br />
infection in the spring just before blooming or just after the<br />
petals have fallen. Wet spring weather increases the spread<br />
of black knot spores.<br />
Control: Unfortunately there are no fungicides currently<br />
available to effectively treat black knot. Instead, prune out<br />
any growths making sure to cut at least eight inches below<br />
the knot. Disinfect the wound with copper spray, clean the<br />
pruning tool between cuts with a bleach solution, and either<br />
destroy of completely dispose of infected wood.<br />
Lawn Diseases<br />
Snow Mold<br />
The incidence and severity of damage caused by snow<br />
mold depends largely on the nature of the fall weather.<br />
If the ground is frozen solid before a permanent snow<br />
cover, damage from snow mold may be minimal. If<br />
however, a heavy snowfall is experienced before freezeup,<br />
considerable lawn injury can occur. Snow Mold is a<br />
common fungi in southern Alberta.<br />
Control: Apply a suitable fungicide to the grass just before<br />
the arrival of the permanent snow cover, in approximately<br />
autumn. Copper spray or <strong>Garden</strong> Sulphur can be used<br />
to control snow mold. Remember to read the directions<br />
first before you use either. Control snow mold naturally<br />
by reducing watering in the late summer to allow your turf<br />
to harden-off, by raking up leaves in the fall, by breaking<br />
up piles of snow to speed their melting in the spring, and<br />
by picking up grass clippings and/or dethatching the turf<br />
regularly.<br />
Fairy Ring<br />
This fungus spreads easily and is therefore very difficult<br />
to control. Dark green circles appear in the lawn. As these<br />
rings enlarge the center area of lawn dies. The fungus<br />
forms a thick impervious mat under the soil surface,<br />
preventing water, air and nutrients from reaching the grass<br />
roots.<br />
Control: Use a garden fork or an aerating tool to poke<br />
holes, 7-10 cm (3-4 in.) apart and at least 12-15 cm (5-<br />
6 in.) deep into the fairy ring. To prevent the spread of<br />
this fungi to other parts of your lawn or garden be sure to<br />
disinfect your tools with a solution of household bleach or<br />
lysol containing chlorine after you use them to aerate fairy<br />
rings. Water the infected area thoroughly. Next, apply a high<br />
nitrogen fertilizer, such as 20-3-4, to the lawn area. Water<br />
this area deeply throughout the summer. An alternative<br />
method is digging the fairy ring out. To do this effectively<br />
the grass and soil must be removed from a distance of 12<br />
inches from the outside and inside edge of the ring and 12-<br />
18 deep. Take care not to spill any soil since any fairy ring<br />
mycellium that fall on the lawn from the soil being removed<br />
can start a new ring. Follow the instructions for cleaning the<br />
tools after this procedure has been completed.
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A disappointing factor of<br />
gardening is the fact that disease,<br />
insects, and weeds (pests)<br />
can destroy productive or attractive<br />
plants. However, not all<br />
insects cause damage. Many<br />
insects are not pests at all but<br />
are beneficial. Without insects<br />
many berry and fruit producing<br />
plants would not be pollinated.<br />
Insects also provide food for fish<br />
and birds. Beneficial insects are<br />
scavengers, parasites, or predators<br />
which live off undesirable insects.<br />
Because of the beneficial<br />
aspects of some insects, insecticides<br />
should only be used when<br />
natural controls fail. Please see<br />
the beneficial insect section for<br />
further information.<br />
Natural pest controls include<br />
hard frost, snow, rain; and the<br />
feeding of predacious insects<br />
such as ladybugs, dragon flies,<br />
and wasps. Spraying should<br />
only be done when insect damage<br />
is intolerable. Furthermore,<br />
pesticides are only one way of<br />
controlling pests and should only<br />
be used when non-chemical<br />
methods are not affective (See<br />
Alternative to Pesticides).<br />
Alternatives to pesticides:<br />
There is a growing concern<br />
over the extensive use of pesticides<br />
and the effect they have<br />
on the environment. For this<br />
reason many people are looking<br />
for alternative methods of pest<br />
control. We offer a number of<br />
natural products that can be economical,<br />
effective, and safe to<br />
use. Botanical insecticides such<br />
as Pyrethrum, Resmethrin, Rotenone,<br />
and Insecticidal Soaps are<br />
examples of such products.<br />
Trees and Shrubs: Many<br />
home-garden pest problems can<br />
be solved with cultural or biological<br />
techniques. Deciduous trees<br />
and shrubs may withstand substantial<br />
defoliation before being<br />
significantly damaged. Insect<br />
pests or leaves harboring insects<br />
can be removed manually when<br />
infestation levels are low. Spray<br />
trees and shrubs with a strong<br />
stream of water to dislodge and<br />
kill insects. Prune diseased<br />
When and if pesticides are required, there are a number of<br />
precautions you should be aware of. Small plants can easily be sprayed by<br />
a home owner using a small portable sprayer or hose-end sprayer. When<br />
large trees require spraying a professional pesticide applicator should<br />
be considered. Ask to see the company’s pesticide applicators license,<br />
required by law, before hiring anyone.<br />
Prior to applying any pesticide it is important to identify the problem.<br />
For insect related problem determine when, during the insects' life<br />
cycle, the insect is most vulnerable. Then determine which of the many<br />
insecticides will control the insect harming your plants. Finally determine<br />
if the insect in question has more than one life cycle. This may make it<br />
necessary to spray more than once in a season to control the insect.<br />
The best time to spray is on a calm evening, when rain is not<br />
forecast. At this time insects are least active and most vulnerable.<br />
Spraying in the evening also protects birds and bees which are also<br />
less active at this time. Spraying when it is windy causes chemicals<br />
to drift onto desirable plants in your own yard or in your neighbors'<br />
yard. This can be especially destructive if you are applying herbicides.<br />
The cool temperatures late in the day reduce the chance of pesticides<br />
damaging (burning) plant tissue. Spraying when rain is forecast can lead<br />
to chemicals being washed off, allowing pests to survive, and depositing<br />
chemicals in local water ways. Spraying when plants are in bloom can<br />
damage attractive flowers and reduce pollination which in turn reduces<br />
yields.<br />
It is the responsibility of the user to handle, store and apply<br />
pesticides correctly and safely. Listed below are the most important things<br />
to know when using pesticides.<br />
1. When mixing and handling pesticides read and carefully follow the<br />
precautions listed on the product label - chemicals may be toxic to<br />
animals and beneficial insects.<br />
2. Use only the pesticide recommended for the problem in question.<br />
The recommended uses are listed on the label.<br />
3. Mix all pesticide chemicals outdoors. Mix pesticide chemical<br />
solutions according to the directions on the label. Do NOT make<br />
pesticide solutions a little stronger for good measure as too much<br />
may cause injury to plants, kill beneficial insects, or leave harmful<br />
residues on edible crops; and is not more effective<br />
4. Avoid inhaling chemical fumes, especially from the concentrated<br />
chemical.<br />
5. Never eat, drink, or smoke when handling chemicals.<br />
6. Use all the safety equipment listed on the label. Keep your skin<br />
completely covered by wearing protective clothing, waterproof boots,<br />
and rubber gloves.<br />
7. Mix chemicals for immediate use only and dispose of any left over<br />
solution (See Pesticide Disposal).<br />
8. Carefully return left over concentrated pesticides to the original<br />
container for storage (See Safe Storage of Pesticides).<br />
9.Use separate spray applicators for insecticides, fungicides and<br />
herbicides. Traces of herbicides, even in a well washed sprayer, may<br />
damage sensitive plants.<br />
10. Apply pesticides on a calm day. Reduce drift through larger<br />
droplets, low spray pressure, and low spray height.<br />
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“A gardener who knows his flowers and is ignorant of weeds now<br />
seems to me to be like half a coin, a tail without a head."<br />
-Sara Stein (1988)<br />
After spraying thoroughly wash out your pesticide<br />
applicator and run some clean water through it. Wash your<br />
protective clothing separately from other clothing in hot<br />
water. Shower yourself, scrubbing with soap and warm<br />
water. If dust or sprays are spilled on your skin or clothing,<br />
remove clothing immediately and wash contaminated skin<br />
with warm, soapy water. Keep children and pets out of the<br />
treated area for 24 hours to prevent them from coming in<br />
contact with the pesticides. When spraying vegetables,<br />
fruits, or berries, note the number of days before harvest<br />
listed on the product label. Make sure that no food products<br />
are eaten from plants treated with pesticides until after the<br />
appropriate number of days have passed.<br />
It is also important to follow up on spray applications.<br />
Check to see how affective the pesticide treatment was. Is<br />
another application required or have the fungi, insects, or<br />
weeds been controlled?<br />
Since pest problems reoccur annually and throughout<br />
the growing season it is important to know how to safely<br />
store pesticides. Pesticides are poisons and should be<br />
stored accordingly.<br />
1. Store pesticides in a cool, dry location up out of reach<br />
of kids.<br />
2. Store chemicals in a locked cupboard away from food,<br />
medicine, animal feeds, and cleaning compounds.<br />
3. Always store pesticides in their original containers.<br />
4. Keep the containers tightly closed when not in use.<br />
Always store pesticides where they are not exposed<br />
to freezing temperature or excessive heat. Extreme<br />
fluctuations in temperature will considerably reduce a<br />
pesticide's shelf life.<br />
5. Store volatile herbicides such as 2,4-D separately<br />
from other pesticides.<br />
Safe Disposal of Pesticides<br />
Disposal of unwanted pesticides in a proper manner.<br />
The best precaution against disposal problems is to purchase<br />
only small amounts of pesticides that can be used<br />
up.<br />
1. To dispose of unwanted pesticides contact the Waste<br />
and Chemicals Division of the Alberta Government<br />
(See Important Telephone Numbers). They will be<br />
able to inform you as to where to drop-off unwanted,<br />
unmarked, corroded, or damaged pesticide containers.<br />
2. Dispose of leftover pesticide solutions by diluting them<br />
with water. Combine the solution with three times as<br />
much fresh water, a triple rinse, and dispose of this<br />
highly diluted pesticide solution by pouring it into the<br />
soil in the area where the chemical was originally applied.<br />
3. Do NOT pour pesticides down the drain or down an<br />
outside storm sewer drain.<br />
4. Destroy or dispose of empty containers ASAP. Do<br />
not leave empty containers around and never re-use<br />
pesticide containers.<br />
5. Break, puncture, or crush pesticide containers before<br />
disposing of them. Always dispose of empty pesticide<br />
containers in an outside garbage.<br />
Herbicides<br />
There are two main types of herbicides, or weed killers:<br />
Non- Selective and Selective.<br />
Round-Up is a non-selective herbicide, killing most<br />
annual and perennial grasses, including lawn grasses,<br />
broadleaf weeds and brush. (i.e.) virtually anything that<br />
is green and growing). It is a translocated herbicide that<br />
is absorbed by the leaves and moves through the stem<br />
to the roots to kill the entire plant. Results usually takes 7<br />
- 10 days. Repeat applications may be necessary as new<br />
seedings and vegetation emerge. Round-Up is not a soil<br />
sterilant. It has no soil activity and will not leach or run off to<br />
affect nearby vegetation.<br />
Killex is a selective herbicide that kills most broadleaf<br />
weeds. It works by making the weed grow extremely<br />
rapidly, completing its life cycle. It can safely be sprayed<br />
onto weeds in the lawn, killing the weed, but not injuring the<br />
grass. Results take 7 days, and repeat applications may be<br />
necessary for new seedlings.<br />
Herbicides should be applied on a warm calm day,<br />
when rain is not expected for at least six hours. Care should<br />
be taken to apply herbicides close to ground level with either<br />
a heavy spray or a dust free watering can. Mist can be<br />
picked up by a slight breeze and carried to desirable plants.<br />
For best results, weeds should also be dust free.<br />
Soil Sterilizers<br />
Soil Sterilizers kill everything growing in the soil where<br />
they are applied. They can also move in the soil, and kill<br />
trees many feet away from the place of application. They<br />
move farther and more quickly in sandy soil than in heavy<br />
clay, and move in the direction water drains. Soil sterilizers<br />
can persist in the soil for several years. Remember that tree<br />
roots can grow a considerable distance, so they can move<br />
into an area where a long-lasting herbicide is still active<br />
several years after application. Generally, it is safer to use<br />
a herbicide such as Round-Up, which is decontaminated<br />
upon contact with soil and kills only what is sprayed.<br />
Metric Conversion<br />
volume<br />
1 tsp. = 5ml.<br />
1 tbsp. = 3 tsp. or 15ml.<br />
1 oz. = 30 ml.<br />
1 cup = 8 oz. or 250 ml.<br />
4 cups = 1000 ml. or 1 litre<br />
1 gal. = 4.5 litre<br />
WEIGHT<br />
1 oz. = 28 g.<br />
9 oz. = 250 g.<br />
1 lb. = 454 g.<br />
2.2 lb = 1000 g or 1 kg<br />
11 lb. = 5 kg.<br />
22 lb. = 10 kg.<br />
1 in. = 2.54 cm.<br />
6 in. = 15.24 cm.<br />
12 in. = 30.48 cm.<br />
3.3 ft. = 1 m.<br />
1 ft. = 30.5 cm.<br />
10 ft. = 3 m.<br />
AREA<br />
11 sq. ft. = 1 sq. m.<br />
110 sq. ft. = 10 sq. m.<br />
1100 sq. ft. = 100 sq. m.<br />
5376 sq. ft. = 500 sq. m.<br />
(approximate measurements)<br />
LENGTH
inSeCtiCiDeS (partial list only)<br />
Trade Name Active Mode of Formulation Features/Uses Pests<br />
Ingredient Action Controlled<br />
Ambush permethrin contact liquid spray Synthetic pyrethroid for outdoor insects<br />
tree and garden<br />
Antkiller carbaryl contact granules Lawn/garden ant control outdoor ants<br />
Aqua Bac Bacillus thuringensis stomach pellets Biological insecticide for mosquito larvae<br />
israelensis poison standing water outdoors<br />
BTK Bacillus stomach liquid spray Biological insecticide caterpillars, worms<br />
thuringensis poison Bacteria disrupts stomach lining<br />
Carbolic Soap carbolic acid contact soap bar Apply to lawn dew worms<br />
Creepy Crawly permethrin contact aerosol Synthetic pyrethroid for indoor/outdoor<br />
cracks and crevices non-flying insects<br />
Diatomaceous Earth silicon dioxide long lasting abrasive Diatomaceous earth crawling insects<br />
residual powder scratches insects body<br />
Dormant Oil mineral oil contact, liquid spray Dormant oil breaks down scale, mealybugs,<br />
residual insect's waxy coating insect eggs<br />
End-All vegetable oil; contact liquid spray Miticide/insecticide; outdoor aphid, spider mite,<br />
pyrethrin whitefly, caterpillar,<br />
scale, thrips, etc.<br />
Hornet & Wasp Spray resmethrin; contact, foam, Spray wasp or hornet nest wasps, hornets<br />
permethrin residual jet spray<br />
HYPE-O Hypoaspis mites predator granules Avail. for indoor or outdoor fungus gnat, thrips<br />
Insecticidal Soap potassium salts contact liquid spray Mild insecticide soft-bodied insects<br />
of fatty acids Dessicates body fluids<br />
Rotenone <strong>Garden</strong> Dust rotenone stomach powder Natural organic insecticide; outdoor insects<br />
poison extremely toxic to fish<br />
Sevin; Bug-B-Gon carbaryl contact liquid Spray fruit, vegetables,lawns outdoor insects<br />
Trounce insecticidal soap; contact liquid spray Avail. in outdoor yard/garden aphids, spider mite<br />
pyrethrin or indoor houseplant forms whitefly, caterpillar,<br />
psyllid, etc.<br />
inSeCtiCiDeS for HoUSePLAnt PeStS<br />
Color/ Plant Plant Feeding Insecticidal Cultural<br />
Pest Description Damage Hosts Action Control Control<br />
Aphid usually green wilting flowers/ most plants suck sap pyrethrin remove heavily<br />
or black yellowing insecticidal soap infested leaves<br />
Fungus Gnat small black root damage most potted larvae resmethrin; allow soil to dry out<br />
flies plants eat roots HYPE-O between waterings<br />
Mealy Bug grayish-white; plant stunting mostly cacti suck sap pyrethrin hand-picking<br />
cottony, wingless and succulents<br />
Scale dark brown; leaf spotting most plants suck sap pyrethrin, pruning or picking<br />
shell-like, wingless insecticidal soap<br />
Spider Mite minute red or leaf spotting most plants suck sap insecticidal soap, misting reduces<br />
two-spotted mite miticide population<br />
Thrips tiny, dark silvery streaks most plants suck sap pyrethrin keep dry<br />
slender flies<br />
Whitefly small white plant stunting fuschia, daisies, suck sap pyrethrin sticky yellow boards<br />
moth-like insects tomatoes, etc.<br />
PeStS AnD ProBLemS 1
PeStS AnD ProBLemS<br />
1 6<br />
fUnGiCiDeS<br />
Trade Name Active Mode of Formulation Features/Uses Pests<br />
Ingredient Action Controlled<br />
Bulb and Soil Dust captan; protectant powder Fungicide/insecticide fungal rot,<br />
carbaryl contact applied to bulbs and soil soil borne insects<br />
Copper Spray copper protectant wettable Prevents fungal disease mildew, blight, black<br />
contact powder on yard/garden plants spot, anthracnose<br />
Folpet folpet protectant wettable Prevents fungal disease powdery mildew,<br />
sytemic powder on roses and ornamentals black spot<br />
Funginex triforine protectant liquid spray Prevents fungal disease powdery mildew, rust,<br />
systemic on roses and ornamentals black spot<br />
<strong>Garden</strong> Sulphur sulphur protectant wettable powder Prevents many fungal powdery mildew, black<br />
contact liquid spray fruit and foliage diseases spot, anthracnose, rust<br />
LIme Sulphur sulphide protectant liquid spray Prevents fungal diseases powdery mildew, black<br />
sulphur contact on fruit/foliage; used with spot, anthracnose, etc<br />
Dormant Oil to kill overwin- insect eggs, scale<br />
tering insects; fungal spores<br />
Tomato and copper; protectant powder Insecticide/fungicide fungal diseases;<br />
Potato Dust carbaryl contact insect pests<br />
HerBiCiDeS<br />
Trade Name Active Mode of Formulation Features/Uses Pests<br />
Ingredient Action Controlled<br />
Calcide amitrole; soil residual liquid Non-selective herbicide kills all vegetation<br />
simazine One year soil residual<br />
Chickweed, Clover M.C.P.P. contact liquid Selective herbicide for ckickweed, clover,<br />
& Thistle (mecaprop) systemic broad-leaf weeds thistle<br />
Killex 2,4-D; dicamba contact liquid Selective herbicide for broad-leaf weeds<br />
mecoprop systemic broad-leaf weeds in lawn<br />
Moss Control ferrous liquid or Controls moss in lawns; moss<br />
sulphate granular do not use on cement<br />
Roundup glyphosate systemic liquid Non-selective herbicide kills all green vegetation<br />
for perennial weed control incl. grass and thistles<br />
Weedex Bar 2,4-D contact solid bar Non-volatile, no spray drift dandelions, plantain<br />
systemic kills broad-lf. weeds in lawns
PeStS & ProBLemSWeeD iDentifiCAtion<br />
The best definition of a weed is a plant that grows where it is not<br />
wanted. Invasive weeds are those that grow in the wrong place<br />
and are very hard to get rid of. These have been categorized as<br />
nuisance, noxious, and restricted. Nuisance weeds are kept in<br />
check to prevent their spread; they may be problematic but do<br />
not threaten habitats or species. Noxious weeds are controlled<br />
and can cause problems with habitats. Finally, restricted weeds<br />
are destroyed when found. These weeds threaten other species<br />
of plants or animals with extinction.<br />
Weeds are further classified as perennial or annual forms.<br />
Perennial weeds come up every year from the same roots.<br />
Examples of this type are thistles or quackgrass. Generally<br />
these weeds have swollen roots which store energy much like<br />
perennial plants; some even begin as perennial plants brought<br />
into the garden. As a result these weeds are very hard to control.<br />
Chemicals that are effective on these plants will also kill or<br />
damage ornamental plants and are uaually not recommended,<br />
though Round-Up can be carefully painted on the leaves of<br />
the weed. Cultural methods include trying to remove the entire<br />
plant, simply removing the top every time it comes to the surface<br />
(eventually this will exhaust the weed's energy supply) and using<br />
landscape fabric in evergreen plantings or perennial beds.<br />
Annual weeds sprout from seed every year; the plants do<br />
not survive the winter. Because of this, annual weeds seed<br />
themselves in greater profusion than perennial weeds. On the<br />
positive side, these weeds are much easier to take care of. A<br />
consistent program of cultivation, that is turning the top inch or<br />
so of soil over periodically, will destroy weed seedlings. If your<br />
vegetable or annual garden is heavily infested an application<br />
of Round-Up on a warm spring day before you plant will be<br />
successful on any weeds that have germinated. Never spray<br />
Round-Up near the leaves of any plants you wish to keep<br />
such as perennials, ornamental trees, evergreens, annuals,<br />
or vegetables because it is a non-selective herbicide and will<br />
kill or damage every plant it touches. Chemicals like Killex, or<br />
selective herbicides that kill everything except grasses, are not<br />
recommended because they remain active in the soil and will<br />
damage anything planted in the area.<br />
Pictured on this page are a few of the common and problem<br />
weeds in our area. For further information visit our website.<br />
Creeping Bellflower<br />
A perennial weed commonly<br />
found in alleys. Aggressively<br />
invades lawns and<br />
gardens through seeds<br />
Wild Mustard<br />
An annual weed commonly<br />
found in newly developed<br />
areas.<br />
Ox-Eye Daisy<br />
Shallow-rooted perennial that<br />
spreads by rhizomes and<br />
seeds. Classified as noxious.<br />
Yellow Toadflax<br />
(Butter & Eggs)<br />
Perennial that reproduces<br />
from seed and rootstocks.<br />
Spotted Knapweed<br />
This biennial/short-lived<br />
perennial is a major problem<br />
as other plants cannot<br />
compete with it.<br />
Field Bindweed<br />
Introduced perennial with<br />
extremely well-developed<br />
root system. Classified as<br />
noxious.<br />
Canada Thistle<br />
A vigorous perennial that<br />
spreads by seeds and roots.<br />
Classified as noxious.<br />
Purple Loosestrife<br />
This perennial is said to<br />
invade wetlands and choke<br />
out plant and animal life.<br />
Common Tansy<br />
This aromatic perennial<br />
spreads by seed.<br />
It is classified as noxious.<br />
Scentless Camomile<br />
Annual or short-lived perennial<br />
with prolific seed<br />
production. Classified as<br />
noxious.<br />
PeStS AnD ProBLemS 1
PeStS AnD ProBLemS<br />
1<br />
PeStS & ProBLemSWeeD iDentifiCAtion<br />
Name(s) Annual<br />
Biennial or<br />
Perennial<br />
Description Spreads<br />
by:<br />
Fields<br />
Beds or<br />
Lawns<br />
Registered<br />
Herbicide<br />
Control<br />
Restricted<br />
Nuisance or<br />
Noxious<br />
Weed<br />
BUCKWHEAT- annual small green flowers seeds fields Nuisance in AB<br />
Wild or Tartary heart-shaped lvs, clasping stems and beds<br />
CHAMOMILE- biennial white, daisy-like flowers seeds fields Noxious in<br />
Scentless dissected lvs on branched stems Calgary & Alberta<br />
CHICKWEED- annual tiny, white, star-shaped flowers seeds, shaded Killex Nuisance in AB<br />
Common opposite, oval lvs, prostrate stems layering beds<br />
CLOVER perennial pink or white flowers seeds lawns Killex<br />
rounded leaflets<br />
DANDELION perennial yellow daisy-like flwr. heads seeds, lawns Killex Noxious in Calgary<br />
basal rosette of toothed lvs. roots beds, fields Nuisance in AB<br />
FLIXWEED annual small yellow flower clusters seeds fields Nuisance in AB<br />
dissected lvs on branched stems and beds<br />
FOXTAIL perennial green foxtail flower spikes seeds fields Noxious in Calgary<br />
(Wild Barley) linear leaves on round stems Nuisance in AB<br />
GROUND IVY perennial purple flowers, round leaves stolons beds Killex<br />
Creeping Charlie square, spreading stems and lawns<br />
GROUNDSEL- annual yellow flower heads seeds fields<br />
Common fleshy leaves and stems and beds<br />
KNAPWEED- biennial purple or white flower heads seeds fields Restricted in AB<br />
Diffuse or Spotted alternate lvs on branched stems<br />
KNOTWEED- annual small inconspicuous flowers seeds roadsides Killex<br />
Prostrate prostrate stems with small lvs<br />
KOCHIA annual inconspicuous flowers seeds fields Noxious in Calgary<br />
(Cypress) narrow lvs on branching stems<br />
LAMB'S QUARTERS annual small green flwrs, grooved stems seeds fields Killex Nuisance in AB<br />
alternate stalked leaves and beds<br />
LOOSESTRIFE- perennial purple flower spikes seeds, wetlands Noxious in AB<br />
Purple (Lyrthum salicaria) seeds/stems invade wetlands stems<br />
MALLOW- annual tiny white flowers seeds beds Killex Nuisance in AB<br />
Round-leaved round lvs on spreading stems<br />
NETTLE- annual pink flwrs, opposite oval lvs seeds fields Nuisance in AB<br />
Hemp hairy, square stems and beds<br />
PIGWEED- snnual green flower spikes seeds fields Killex Nuisance in AB<br />
Redroot red roots and stems and beds<br />
PLANTAIN- annual long, narrow, green flwr spikes seeds lawns Killex<br />
Broad-leaved basal rosette of lvs, basal stem<br />
PURSLANE annual inconspicuous yellow flowers seeds fields Killex<br />
(Wild Portulaca) prostrate, succulent stems and beds<br />
QUACK GRASS perennial green flower spikes seeds, fields Roundup Noxious in Calgary<br />
(Couch Grass) flat-leafed blades on hollow stems rhizomes beds, lawns Nuisance in AB<br />
SHEPHERD'S PURSE annual small white flowers, basal lvs. seeds fields Killex Nuisance in AB<br />
purse-shaped seed pods and beds<br />
SPURGE- perennial yellow flowers, linear lvs. roots, beds Noxious in AB<br />
Leafy or Cypress stems contain milky sap seeds<br />
STINKWEED annual numerous, small white flwrs. seeds fields Killex Noxious in Calgary<br />
narrow lvs, round seed pods and beds Nuisance in AB<br />
THISTLE- perennial upright purple flwr heads roots, beds Roundup Noxious in Calgary<br />
Canada spiny leaves and stems seeds and fields Killex and Alberta<br />
THISTLE- biennial nodding purple flwr heads seeds fields Restricted in AB<br />
Nodding spiny leaves and stems<br />
THISTLE- perennial upright yellow flwr heads seeds, fields Killex Noxious in Calgary<br />
Sow toothed lvs on smooth stems roots and beds and Alberta<br />
TOADFLAX-Yellow perennial yellow snap-dragon-like flwrs. roots, fields Roundup Noxious in Calgary<br />
(Butter & Eggs) linear lvs, creeping rootstocks seeds and Alberta
CHriStmAS At GoLDen ACre<br />
Come in and see our expanded Christmas department!<br />
Every year our talented staff spend six feverish weeks<br />
transforming the store into a beautiful Christmas shop.<br />
We carry a wonderful array of ornaments, garlands,<br />
trees (both everlasting and cut), Dept. 56 and other<br />
collectibles, Nativity scenes, Christmas plants<br />
(naturally) and much more. Make a point of stopping<br />
in this holiday season; it's well worth the trip.<br />
freSH CUt treeS<br />
We bring in hundreds of cut trees every year, filling our<br />
covered lot by mid-November. Here you will find BC<br />
Fir and Balsam Fir. We also carry fresh cedar, balsam,<br />
and mixed evergreen boughs, garlands, and wreaths.<br />
Ask our staff for assistance and they will gladly give the<br />
tree a fresh cut, wrap it, and help you out to your car. Be<br />
sure to pick up a tree-disposal bag and Christmas Tree<br />
Food. The bag will help reduce the mess left by falling<br />
needles and the food will significantly increase the life<br />
of your tree. If you add food to the tree's water, keep it<br />
away from a heat source like the fireplace or a register.<br />
Always ensure the water is topped up your tree should<br />
be fine until well after Christmas. We carry a very good<br />
selection of decorative tree stands for your cut tree.<br />
Lately we have had a number of requests for living<br />
Christmas trees that you can plant outside after the<br />
holidays are over. Unfortunately, these evergreens<br />
find it too dry inside and have a difficult time. If the tree<br />
survives the Christmas season then you are faced with<br />
planting it either in frozen soil or a dry, climactically<br />
unstable conditions. The vast majority of trees treated in<br />
this manner die in Alberta conditions. Norfolk Island Pine<br />
or Goldcrest Cypress are available in our houseplant<br />
section and can be decorated for Christmas. These trees<br />
must remain inside because they are tropical evergreens<br />
and cannot survive our winters.<br />
eVerLAStinG<br />
CHriStmAS treeS<br />
We have a large selection of everlasting trees in many<br />
styles and colours ranging from traditional green and<br />
blue through to silver and even black. The trees come<br />
in sizes from 24 inches all the way up to 14 feet. We<br />
also carry a variety of everlasting wreaths, swags, and<br />
garlands. Ask our staff how to string the lights on the tree<br />
so you can leave them on until next year.<br />
1<br />
CHriStmAS
CHriStmAS<br />
1 0<br />
CHriStmAS At GoLDen ACre<br />
We are proud to be one of the city's largest dealers of<br />
Dept. 56 ceramic and porcelain houses. <strong>Golden</strong> <strong>Acre</strong><br />
carries most village pieces and Snowbabies. We hold<br />
special event days for collectors and the general public.<br />
Listed below are the Dept. 56 lines we carry throughout<br />
the year. Come in and see our permanent display.<br />
DiCKenS' ViLLAGe<br />
Take a journey back to Victorian London with this collection.<br />
Quaint shops and homes, inspired in part by the<br />
novels of Charles Dickens, show us what Christmas was<br />
like in this bygone era. Made of hand-crafted porcelain<br />
by highly skilled artisans, this series was introduced in<br />
1984 to capture both the detail of the times and the spirit<br />
of holidays past, present and yet to come. Many pieces<br />
even feature animation or sound for additional authenticity<br />
and fun. Best of all, a multitude of accessories add<br />
realism and depth to your holiday village setting.<br />
nortH PoLe SerieS<br />
The home of everyone’s favorite jolly old elf, Santa, Mrs.<br />
Claus and all their busy little helpers. Sprinkled with newfallen<br />
snow, these brightly-lit, porcelain buildings and<br />
fanciful accessories make for a legendary wonderland<br />
only Santa could imagine. Santa’s North Pole is a place<br />
of joy - where he, Mrs. Claus and the elves live, play<br />
and prepare for Christmas each year.<br />
CHriStmAS in tHe City<br />
Introduced in 1987, it’s just the place for excitement<br />
and cheer. Inspired by the hustle and bustle of city<br />
sidewalks, this hand-painted, porcelain cityscape is<br />
filled with lighted shops, restaurants, theatres, homes<br />
and, of course, busy shoppers, carolers and loads of<br />
well-wishers. It’s the quintessential city all dressed up<br />
for the holidays.<br />
The enchanting lighted buildings are generally two<br />
stories in height and are home to the usual cast of<br />
characters including holiday shoppers, city police cars,<br />
party-goers, and, naturally, town tree trimmers.
LiVinG GiftS<br />
We have one of the best selections of flowering plants in the city, including azaleas, orchids, holiday cactus, cyclamen,<br />
kalanchoe, and pot mums. For unique gifts don't forget to check out the rest of our indoor plants including<br />
cactus and bonsai. Of course, we carry poinsettias available in red, pink, white, gold, marbled and variegated<br />
types. We also have new varieties like the double-flowering 'Christmas Rose' and the ruffled 'Carousel'.<br />
CHooSinG A PoinSettiA<br />
Look for dark green foliage and brightly colored bracts (the coloured leaves surrounding the true flowers).<br />
Avoid poinsettias with wilted foliage, broken stems, or few flowers.<br />
HoW to CAre for yoUr PoinSettiA<br />
Always take care to keep the plant warm. Never take it outside since exposure to freezing temperatures, even<br />
for a short while, may cause the leaves to blacken and drop. We will wrap your poinsettia to help prevent this<br />
but make sure you take it home quickly. The paper sleeve will not protect you plant during an extended stopover<br />
in a cold car.<br />
Once you get home place the poinsettia near, but not touching, a sunny window or in another well-lit spot. Make<br />
sure to keep it away from draughts. Water only when the soil becomes dry to the touch.<br />
Are PoinSettiAS PoiSonoUS?<br />
A common myth about poinsettias is that they are poisonous. This is not true (though they are of a low toxicity<br />
to cats); studies conducted by the Ohio State University concluded that they are not poisonous though certain<br />
individuals may experience an allergic reaction to the sap.<br />
re-fLoWerinG<br />
To get your poinsettia to flower again next year you must follow these steps:<br />
•Cut the plant back to around 8" high in early April, fertilize with all-purpose fertilizer, and water regularly. This<br />
should result in new growth by the end of May.<br />
•You may prune during the summer to keep plants compact but do not prune any later than September 1. Keep<br />
the poinsettias in indirect sun and water them regularly.<br />
•Starting October 1 poinsettias must be kept in complete darkness (no light at all - not even streetlights or a<br />
nightlight) for 14 hours and at a temperature of 16-21 degrees Celsius. In order to do this cover them or move<br />
them into a dark room every night. Poinsettias also need 6-8 hours of bright sunlight a day during this period.<br />
Carefully follow these instructions for 8-10 weeks and you should get flowers for Christmas.<br />
HoLiDAy CACtUS<br />
Getting your Holiday Cactus to rebloom is a lot like getting a poinsettia to rebloom. Once the plant has stopped<br />
flowering, begin feeding with an all purpose fertilizer. Do not fertilize while in bloom as this will cause a shorter<br />
blooming period. You also need to limit the number of daylight hours the plant is exposed to. It needs 14-16 hours<br />
of darkness and only 8 hours of light each day. Repeat this for 8-12 weeks, and before you know it you will have<br />
beautiful Holiday Cactus blooms once again.<br />
CHriStmAS<br />
1 1
Introducing Miracle-Gro LiquaFeed -<br />
the unique plant feeding system<br />
that makes it easier than ever to get<br />
spectacular results in your garden.<br />
Getting started is<br />
as easy as 1-2-3<br />
1 Attach to your hose<br />
2 Insert a refill bottle<br />
of liquid Miracle-Gro<br />
3 Start feeding by<br />
turning the dial to 'feed'<br />
Miracle-Gro LiquaFeed<br />
automatically mixes plant food<br />
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measuring or mess!<br />
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WATER ONLY FED EVERY 2 WEEKS<br />
WITH MIRACLE-GRO<br />
LIQUAFEED<br />
Miracle-Gro<br />
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